Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, December 7, 1902, Page 30

THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, DECEMBER 7 1902. =®® IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. == INDIVIDUALITY THE FASHION NOTE, We Anything, Wear Anything, but You Must Be Original. NEW YORK, Dec. 5.—A summary of the season’s fashions shows no marked oref- erence for anything except originality. So | many models are offered that the shop dis plays are frequently more dazing than en- lighteniag, and even if one meets with a garment in conventional cut the growing taste for individuality is revealed in some ittle touch never encountered before. In short, so much scope fs allowed that the woman on modish fol-de-rols bent has only to know her “points” to be sulted. It she doesn't know them, let her seek out the best milliners and dressmakers and yield berself to their judgment. Beginning with headgear, where is the bat shape which fashion dictates as the thing? Blg and {ittle hats are seen: hats Jow crowned, high crowned, with flat and T |SMART EFFECTS WORN BY SMART WOMEN. e - maker. This Is In a perfectly straight band fourteen inches wide and three yards long. | Tiny kilted ruffies, sewed crosswise on a | foundation etrip, compose its outside sur- | face. One such—worn, curlously enough with a blue velvet day gown—was of black point d'esprit, as fine as tulle, and narrow | pointed lace edged the crimped frills. The | whole effect was one of lightness and ele- gance. A pelerine scarf of sable or Siberlan tinuation of the shoulder strap, and from this may fall an elbow length flounce, finely kilted, or long puffs which extend to the wrist. It seems queer to have one's arms s0 modest below and so bold above, for, truth to tell, on many dames these walsts | have a brazen look. On the right woman | they are undeniably charming, and there | are deft cuts which make the bodice seem very low without really being so. That they neceasitate more care of the throat and grace lies in the footwear. Certainly no | woman can walk gracefully or with a free | and confident bearing if her whole body Is thrown out of poise by a high French or “Cuban’ heel. The woman s yet to be seen | who can exhibit gracefulness while wearing exaggerated hoels A thing to be borne in mind by the large woman, or she who has large, ungainly feet, | is that she must wear comfortably fitted, laced or buttoned boots at all times if she wishes to appear casy in motion. She ¢hould never wear low shoes nor slippers. The eole should be rather thick, but at the same time flexible, and the heel about an inch high (not more) and always even Whenever a heel fs worn oft unevenly have it straightened without delay it you wish to keep your feet and ankles strong, straight | and shapely and your carriage graceful. Another matter thdt is vital, perhaps not concluded that instead of going to the meetings I would have the meetings come | to me, and make them & source of income rather than expenditure. I know scores of people who are glad to mingle with a small crowd of congenial souls once a week and air their opinions and ride their hob- bles, but who have neither the time nor the inclination to join a pretentious club where formality counts for more than pure soclal enjoyment. It was just such peovle that I wanted to invite to my flat. Accord- ingly, I took the initiative and sent out cards requesting certain people to call on certaln evenings for the purpose of ex- changing ideas and strengthening social ties. With two exceptions every person in- vited responded, and they in turn brought friends, until now I have as many llers each evening as I can well ecare for. “I entertain five evenings in the week. with curving brims, side tilted hats. hats | turned up or down at the back and some | slanting sharply_ over the face or flaring boldly away from it. The trimmings which deck these. how- ever, depend largely upon the style of the headplece, though they are put on with a certain smoothness of line. Upstanding bows, algrettes and bunchy rosettes may ornament small hats on the turban order. but brim hats, and especially large ones, are invariably treated flatly. The low French sailors with ubcurving brim need the smallest scrap of trimming to be effective, and even picturesque hats, a8 compared with former methods are now rather simply treated. A black or white ostrich feather forms the entire trimming In_many cases, Very long and equally extravagant in width, the best plumes completely encircle lace crowns, with the fluffy ends falling, perhaps, at the back over a fur brim. One stralght and rather etiff sort suggests a huge quill in shape. The resemblance is fyrther emphasized by allowing the heavy stem to plerce the brim at some point. The combination of a lace crown with a fur brim 1s & frequent feature of millinery for dressiest wear, and little animal heads and talls deck walking hats of both alry and stout materials. One detail is a disputed point—the rear fall of trimming which so many exag- gerations have made vulgar in & way. Many milliners declare that this feature will dis- appear entirely before long. Meanwhile, falr woman is deciding the question of taste for herself, and one sees the becoming “tall” upon both day and evening hats, in every degree of length and varfety of tex- ture., Fashionable Neckwear. In neckwear fashion is more peremptory than elsewhere. The collar, cape or rufe of the hour is always fiat, and the most charming feature of them all is the ea: fon In which they are worn. Cut in almost straight scarfs, or in qQuaint pelerine shape, the purpose both of, airy collars and fur tippets is purely oroa- mental. None cuddle the throat ae closely as formerly, and somo of the capes with stolo ends are merely held on by the arms. This mantilla-like disposition of the shoul- der scarf is almost invariably becoming, and, for warmth, al olutely useless. When the rest of the costume likewise leans to ancient coquetries the qualntly graceful effect, of course, is helghtened. A romantic looking net secarf sugges faclle possibilities for the home dres: squirrel is the elegant extravagance which sometimes sccompanies white evening gowns, both of cloth and lace. These, with | ermine and caracul linings, superbly set off the rich costumes, the big flat muff which accompanies them adding to the look of | cosy luxury. mce in Favor, For the public night display about town —for dining, the theater, etc.—gowns in white or pale-colored cloth, with insets of Venice point, Bruges lace and Irish crochet are the most distinctive creations. How ever, one often sees quite simple effects made of very expensive materia Many of the laces used on these radiant| frocks are just fmitations, but only by the sophisticated is the deception known. And | nce they are decelving, it is needless to add that even the imitations are impos: sible to the many. Like the real laces they come in set skirt and bodice orma- ments, which take many novel shapes. Straight insertions and all-over patterns are less expensive, and it all-over designs are chosen very handsome effects can be made by cutting the wide laces in bands and edging them with fur. A stuoning visiting frock so treated showed two of these bands, shaping a pointed tunic effect, on the skirt. The ma- terial of the gown was violet and white striped wool, with a silky finish. Against this the brown of the sable bands seemed very rich, and a deviee for further variety was made by placing the brownish lace against a dead white background. The smart gown of the moment rarely depends upon one variety of trimming, un- less it is a lace so splendid that to put anything else with it would be sinful. That is, as far as the trimming of the gown proper Is concerned, for even the white bodices show a line of turquolse or coral Yélvet edging the stock and wristbands. | Sometimes a postillion belt in the same material is ndded, and such slight touches do much to relieve the sameness. Evening Frocks. With gauzy evening frocks in pure white, pompadour velvets and great lrlmclli roses, very silky in quality, are sometimes employed on the bodice wit pretty effect. The very low cut of the bodice now so popular has its charms as well as Its de- fects. Often it is too low, but it only low enough it is certainly a radiant enhancer for well modeled shoulde Except for the narrowest shoulder straps all the upper Ppart of the body is in fu]l view, the sleeve tovering only the lower part of the arm. The aleeve's support is generally the con- A gem from Heaven In the form of a sweet little child is recognised by the parents as a sacred trust to be eared for and ven generously to the world as a Bve tehin children: ‘Caivioen. strong lntelloet cally is a duty every pregnant mother owes sleep producing element ex. expectant m if ‘used diligently tendons straining with the burden, caus- MOTHER IEND is & lfiporifl: or ternally applied that will give the ul and dreamless rest, and will soften all tissues, musc ing them to relax and become this perfect remedy d gestation you 'ul‘n uring childbirth or {ree of pain and bear healthy, ually and physi- mldy{ Phows nights of thronghout gestation and elastic. When you use hout the ou L ire pertod of clever children. Of druggist $1.00 por bottle, Accept no substitute. Our beok, “Motherhood,"” FREL THE BRADFIELD REGULATOR CO., Atlanta, Ga ) more by smartness of cut than by elaborate that 1ift of the chest which promotes not only beauty but health, the wearers of the reigning bodice soon discover. Velvet gowns for both day and evening wear figure conspicuously in the season’s inventory. These for day use are marked detail, a plain skirt and tight-fitting coat being the model of many. The coat is single or double-breasted. Often there is a shoul- der cape, and maybe three, and the bl tails are very long. Even the postillion tail is now carried down to incredible lengths, which is accounted for, perbaps, by the plain habit cut of so many of the skirts. One ehirred skirt in the market Is almost skin tight to the knees, from where the plain portion hangs in a deep flounce. Smarter skirts, those which train to some extent, show the ever popular shaped flounce, side pleats, hip yokes and tunic ef- fects. As to the high, dressy bodice, it is looser in fit than ever. Drooping cape collars of many sorts drop over its shoulders. there is frequently a fancy vest of some descrip- tion, and its sleeves grow daily more pic- turesque. With some of the richer gowns the arm coverings are for all the world like those seen in the paintings of the old masters. Plcturesque Velvet Gown. A sapphire blue velvet gown carried this pleturesqueness to the highest point. Very tight at the top and deeply flounced at the elbow, the sleeves enclosed two under- talls of lace, one pure white, the other yellow. When the arm was lifted these fell away in billows, the same flouncing. lacy effect showing under the edge of the skirt, 3 Black bead embroideries and tinted span- gles enrich many a velvet gown,, but some- how this royal material does not lend it- self gracefully to such manipulation. A look more vulgar than elegant is always achieved, especially if the work is too elaborate, s it most frequently is. On the other hand, the beaded and spangled chiffons are exquisite, the frallity of the background nectssitating much lighter treatment, One adorable ' white party gown, gilt embroidered and spangled, might have adorned Titania herself, so delicately fine was the embroidery, so fantastic its deslgn. The short coats for dressy wear Rrow more elaborate as the season advances. Velvet and lace applicaticns, fur and em- broidery often appear on a single garment. Longer coats for more serviceable wear are plainer, heavy stitchings alone composing the trimmings of many. The costume jackets cannot be described with the same dispatch. Their models are without number, and thelr trimmings in- clude everything from bome buttons to leather bands. Velvet and fur are used on the boucle cloths, whose hairy surfaces sometimes suggest all manner of irrelevant things. x For example, & walking gown of scarlet and black boucle cloth was & queer re- minder of the coquetries of other days. Against the red background the curling black hairs were matted together in distinet locks—"beau catchers” in short. Perhave you would call them pothooks, but it doesn’t matter. “Beau catchers” sound prettier. And the baby lamb trimmin #0 much to grace as to health, s that of keeping the feet and ankles warmly clad whenever the weather 18 cold or damp. The time of greatest danger is in the fall when the first cold days and nights come. We have been wearing thin hoslery and per- ' haps low shoes all summer, and for some | rerson we foel loath to change with the weather. But we must, and promptly, too, it we wish to avold taking cold or contract- ing some serious chronic trouble; so the first day that your ankles feel cold and you teel & desire to draw them up under your ekirts for warmth, put on your boots, and when the weather gets colder still and perhaps enowy, don weolen stockings. It pays to keep the feet warm at all times; nothing pays better, physically. HOSTESS WHO TAXES GUESTS, . New Yorker Hits Upon & New Way of Meeting Expenses, People with soclal proolivities and large apartments have hit upon a new plan for paying their rent, reports the New York Times. They tax their visitors. At least some of them do. One woman who has a cozy flat on Twenty-second street has gone into the entertaining business on a large scale. “I have always been fond of attending club meetings,” she sald, “but the expense has prevented me from following my In- clination to its full bent. This winter I My rooms are large enough to accommoda twenty-five persons comfortably. 1 have divided my guests into companies. bearing ever in mind the problem of bringing tastes and dispositions most nearly clike in the same division. On Monday evening I enter- tain what I call the congress of cranks. Tuesday and Wednesday there are more cranks. Thursday the card players meet, and on Friday the scientific folks hold ser- vices. “At all these meetings we have music. which 1 generally furfish myself. Dancing 1s allowed late in the evening and occa- sionally refreshments are served. These concessions to the appetite are generally very light, however, and T am practically at no expense beyond the wear and tear on the furniture. The dues are 25 cents a week, and as I am general manager, pres| dent and secretary of each club, all the money is pald directly to me, and is mine to do with as I choose. I don't mind admitting that most of it goes to the landlord. It 1s a wonder to me that more people with a large circle of acquaintances do not earn money in the same way. For a person who is a good entertainer by nature and educa- tion, I know of no pleasanter y to add to one's income than to turn the flat into a club room.” Frills of Fashion. Plaid silk petticoats are much in faver. Panne cloth is enjoying an unprecedented amount of fashionable favor. ‘Wool lace dyed to match is extensively used for trimming wool gown: For children the fashionable furs ‘hinchilla. white fox, ermine and A new set of furs in baby lamb consists of a long flat stole, with big Frenchy muff gmd with ermine and trimmed with mink 5. Black pearls and renalssande scroll work figure In all the beautiful embrolderies which are an essential part of the dress of today. Incrustations of Irish guipure and bands of mink fur lend an effective touch to a costume of white panne just completed for a debutante. One of the prettiest of the new white wash walsts is fashioned of heavy canvas cheviot, with embroidery in conventional patterns in pastel shades. A novel style Is to have cloth gowns velled with chiffon and trimmed with fur. For example, a soft brown cloth was velled with chiffon’ the exact color of the mole- Office Cramer’s should keep track of onean- other, Ifa cold strikes you while at your desk, want Cramer’s Kidney at home, kilter try it. shady side of fifty. heal right there. work. more. there, men and Kidney and Liver Cure that’s always near a window, and in a draft, you Cure right away. You ought to keep a bottle in your desk and another The first time your kidneys gare out of Don’t take a dose or two and stop, for the first portion of a bottle cleans out the kid- neys and liver in good shape, gives them a thor- ough washing, and then begins to heal the weak, lame and sore spots, particularly if you're on the Cramer’s Kidney and Liver Cure gets right down to the foundation of the ache and begins to Cures while you keep on at It does just what you expect of it, and no Just cures your aches and pains and stops Cork the bottle tight and save it for the next time. Every good drug store keeps it, but we'll send it if you're troubled to get it. Tell us where you live and we'll send you a big sample bottle and book free. It's a wonder- fully pleasant medicine to take. The Cramer Chemical Co., i ALBANY, N. Y. Genufne, fresh Cramer's Kidney and Liver Cure may be found in two sizes, 50 size for 40c, $1.00 size for 76c, at Schaefer’s Qut Price Drug Store ' “shiize ™ All goods delivered free in the city. Open all night. skin which trimmed it. A collar of ecru lace and velvet added a plcturesque note, while a bolero of moleskin, with muff to match, completed the costume. A novelty In fur coats Is a jacket formed of marten tails joined by a lace insertion on the herring-bone order. The lining is of white satin, while down the front Is a jabot of gray chiffon frillings. A large string colored lace collar covers the shoul- ders and the sleeves suggest large puffs drawn into the arms, where a deep ruffie of the lace conceals an undersieeve of satin fitted closely at the wrist. For and About Women. Miss Walnwright and Miss Schroeder, the latter a daughter of the governor of Guam, have just entered Washington soclety. The young women are great-great-granddaugh- ters of Benjamin Franklin. Mrs. Elizabeth Lowell Hancock Wood of Brookline, Mass., & descendant of John Hancock, has petitioned the probate court of Boston to appoint her attorney admin- istrator of the estate of the revolutionary leader and signer of the Decleration of In- dependence. There s » remarkwote community in Abyssinia where the women, without hold- ing meetings or agitations of any kind, bave emancipated themselves. All the women work hard, while the men are idle, but by way of compensation the house and all it contains belongs to the wife. At the least unkind word she turns the husband out at night, in storm or rain, and he can- not come back until he makes amends by the 'gift of a cow. The wife considers it a duty to abuse the husband, and if she were weak enough to show any love for him in life or grief at his death she would be scorned by her tribe. The wife, without any reason, may strike her tent and go, taking with her one-third of the joint pos- sessions. The husband, unless he is trav- eling, may not live out of his tent. “S-DROPS” EO. E. RAND, Port Norfolk, Va., wri sl h.aw-u"lauuam. Chiadr wi saw your abie to go little knowl that l{aur ¥ beoause of the bappy as a lar) rtisement in paper so I proct TSIE windmill CURES RHEUMATISM Two Severe Cases of Rheumatism That Were Cured by the Use of Swanson’s ‘‘6-DROPS’ After Other Medicines Had Failed. rheumatism fo the di ites:—"1 had r eleven weeks. I could not lay down in bed. If Idid I conld not th my right lex op piliows. with my foot and leg near the stove, and the hotter I kept it the betier ured “5-DROPS" st here and I have used it now eleven weeks, 1bave s Whioh T haveto oll,, Three mouths ago I had to employ some one Lo do It for me: naw 1 am readily. up and down k icines, as I was has eured me of Sciatic Rheumatism. 1live. Ihave used almost evi teran of renswod my youth. t & medical college for two and one-half years. Thank God for what it has done for me, ery known remedy without much relief. the Civil war, but am feeling younger every day 1 am 56 years of age and have had & 1 wish to say Have 1 sent to Mt. Pleasant after & bottle of “5«DROPS” think- ly another doliar wasted. ns. and with one foot 1n & ebalr where I he pain. N ithout Well sufice to 68y I bad taken patent medicines galore without benefit. I commenced taking your eld it about three weeks: could scarcely put it to the floor ow with one bottle, hardly two-third gone, I am out at work on my farm body. God bless your medicine treated by two of our best oli I can say.” pain in SWANSON'S “S:JDROPI" Will Cure Rheumatism N ANY OF ITS FORMS OR STAGES OF DEVELOPMENT. It makes no difference how severe the case may be, ~DROPS" if used as directed, will give quick relief and effect a permanent cure of this painful which went with them were very girlish and charming. MARY DEAN. HOW TO WALK GRACEFULLY, Rare Charm that Too Often Neg- lected by Women. SENT FREE. disease. The **5-DROPS" treatment of Rheumatism, is the only itive method of curing this ailment. “5.DROPS" is an internal and external remedy. Applied externally it stops all aches and pains as if by magic. Taken internally it cleanses the biood of the poisonous acids which cause the disease and thereby efiects a permanent cure. Rheumatism, Lumbago, Sciatica, Neuralgia and all other discases of the blood, nerves and muscles can be cured by the Drope™. use of 5« Cut out the Coupon in this advertisement and send direct to Swanson Rheumatic Cure Co. with your name and address, 0d & trial bottle of “5-DROPS” will be mailed o you at once. Write today. LARCE SIZE BOTTLE ASK YOUR DRUBBIST FOR THE “‘SWANSON PILL" Ope of the rarest charms these days in woman is grace of mevement in walking. Doubtless the chief reason for the lack of “5-DROPS” (300 DOS COUPON | 00. AT YOU DRUGGISTS, A SURE CURE FOR CONSTIPATION. PRIGE, 25c. A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER R. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER \omovse Tan, Plmbles, Freckies, Moth Patchos, Hash and Skin Dise it “ead " oty &7 blemish on beautr. €/ and defien dstection. 1t bas stood 1o test of Bity-fie Purifies as well as beautifies the skin. Noother cos- metic will do it we taste 1t sure It s properiy Accept “'As you ladies will use them, mend ‘GOURAUD'S CREAM' as barmful of all the skin preparation: sale by all druggists and fancy gaods ers in the U, §. and Europe. FERD. T. HOPKINS, Prop'r, ¥ Great Topes St., N. Y. 1 _recom- the least For deal- SWANSON RHEUMATIC CURE CO., (60-164 LAKE ST., CHICAGO. @) 17 ) - EGETABLE (50MPOUND. Burkhart's Vegetable Compound unequaled as a Spring Blood Medicine. not and bulld’ up the system so that you can Dr. is Do delay, but strengthen the constitution enjoy the beautiful Spring. Pi gures Catarrh, Liver and IKidney Discases, ness of Limbs, etc. 10 days’ treatment free. All Druggists. ol . DR. W. 8. BURKHART, Cine| CUREL' BY WHITE RIBBCN REMEDY NG 0uor, Cun be given in glase tes, OF coffee WilLoul patient's knowiedg White Hibbon Remedy will cure or de- wtroy the diseased appetite for nlcuhur( stimulants, whe r the patient is a com firmed lnebriate “tppler,” soclal nker unkard. lmpossibie for anyo [y an appetite tor alcoholic liquors afler White Ribbon Remedy. Indursca w) momibess ve W, G T U Moore, press superintendent of Wo- Chrisuan Temperance Union, Ven tuia, Ladlornia, writes: “l1 have tlesiec White Kibbon semecy on very obstinale drunkards. and the cures have been many. 1o macy ~ases the Hemedy was given sa- cretly. ) cheerfully recommend and indorse White Ribbon Remedy. Membeis of our Union are delighted 1o find an economical 1 ald us In our temperanc mail, §L. Trial packag tree by rs. A, M. Townsend (fo cars oecretary of a Woman's Christian ‘emperai ce Union), 218 Tremont St. Bos- ton, Mass. Sola in Omaha SCHAEFER’ Ph 1, 8. W, Cor. 16th and Goods deliveres BRI 10 any part ot e by CUT PRICE OHUG $TOAE