Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, August 3, 1902, Page 12

IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN i FRESHENING SUMMER TOGGERY. Directions for Freshing Old Clothes and Hints for New Ones. Unless {t is constantly renewed or fresh. wned, August is the month when the sum- mer wardrobe takes on a faded air. Two months of hard use hAve told on airy gowns, whose crisp freshness was their chief attraction; paled are the blossoms the garden of hatland, and ribbons, ntiest ornaments in the world of dress, are deep in the wrinkles of middle age. Bome magic s required here to restore departed youth, but once lehrned, the re: fuvenafion of dress is a simple matter. For one thing, all diaphanous gowns, whether of wool or cofton, should be kept well pressed; first dampening musline with » weak solution ot gum drablc and water. Then renewing flowers will do much toward helping a hat through the season, and silk frocks can be kept ia good order by simply putting them away properly. Bodices should be hung aver forms, every button of the front or back fastened, and with tissue paper holding out the sleeves. For hanging the skirt; fold the belt directly in the middle, and suspend it tightly from two safety pins placed at either end. These will go over small banging hooks, and if the wardrobe Is sufficiently high and spa- elous’ the ‘skirt is' improved by the treat- ment. Short clothes closets, which force the train to 1ié on the, floor, injure the jupe lines, and waist boxes are things to be e GOWN OF BLACK AND WHITE 8WISS OVER APPLE GREEN BILK. avoided, the bodice crumpling at every) touching point. 80 much for the woman who can't buy mew clothes in August. For those who can three charming gowns by a ledding New, York falseuse will give admir: hinte all being in stvles as becor ng a novel. r A bewlitching afternoon costume is in novelty Swiss—big black balls on a white ground. The skirt has two deep flounces, cut on the straight and edged with blas bands of plain white. One of these also heads the top flounce, and &t the left knee 18 placed gauzy, bunchy bow of black and white stripea ribbon. ‘The surpl bodice llkewise shows these ‘bows, one &t the right shoulder and one at the left bust. The model of the corsa; extremely odd. Beginning with a tucked yoke, stitched with black, the lower portion drapes slantingly across the bust, leaving the left shoulder free. The elbow sleeves, which require long black siik gloves for outdoor appearances, are lightly shirred at the outer arfn. The zone belt is ot Bwiss and the low, polnted collar band of the same worked with black. Pleture all this“over a slip of apple-green silk and top it with a toque of green leaves with two huge roses at the left front. Anotheér delightful frock ehown by this gifted modiste, who includes sbme of New York's prettiest actresses among her ou tomers, was of white volle over black s This tollette had been designed for country house junketings at Lenox, but it looked as 1f the boulevards of Paris were It familiar haunts. For the placing of white over black s & trick of the French costumers, and sverywhere the arrangement results in the usual elegance displayed by these people. Madam, ‘the American maker, pointéd out one sallent need for correct effects: The white which goes over black shoyld be thick enough to reslst too much darkening from the lining. So the velling had .chosen was of the thickest .mesh, solider.in weave than the usual votles, though it fell with a volle softness. With this she had combined wool embroideries and cat-stitehing for trimming. » ‘The stitching held down the shallow tucks of the bleuse, bodice and siseves, the tucks of these running 'bias and the others up and down. At the front of the waist thero was & wide plastron, ornamented with a sort of. buge fleur de lis in black embroidery. The Mhers embellished the outside of the puft At the lower portion of the sleeves and the cut-out, neck was finished with a polnted band, on which there were smalier fleur de lis, held together by & beading of embrold- ered dots. The embroldery of the skirt consisted of * wide band in another pattern, edged with solid rows In black. This, shaping & deep scallgp at the front and back of the jupe, “headed ' a wide hemmed flounc pointed girdle was of black and taffeta, cut blas and left unlined. + Rarely beautiful are the white organdy and Swiss frocks with black lace inse! and embroldert The immense amount of hand work on these makes the ready made production a dear possession, but women slover with the needlesfind in such styles agreeable outlets for superfious energies. “Indeed,” sald my modiste yesterday, “so many Iadles are making their gowns this seasor{ that it is seriously affecting busi- Tho .revival of hand stitchery has brought this about, as well as the great fmprovement in paper patterns, which at many of the good places are mow cut to 1 nm.; | rigging which somebody must buy. measurements. Then fashion now calls for $0 muny frocks that the majority of u are compelled to economise on the mak- ing. Delicious inspiration ‘for thé clever THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, AUGUST 3, 1902, N 2 EES==0® P —— stroke of the painter's brush could omly be imitated by as many careful stitches as that brush contained hairs. Surmounting all difficulties, however, by Bheer pluck, she at last Gonsidered herf needlewoman is & gown of amber organdy | work worthy of public exhibition, and sent and black lace over watermelon pink silk. Embroldered rings, enclosiog disks of black and white footing, alternating In narrow strips, trim this with bewildering effect. On the skirt the rings border 0dd ovals of tucked organdy stitched with black, these heading an embroidered foot flounce. Above, all over the skirt, are the same ornaments, large and small, a row around a tucked plece shaping a basque effect at the back and hips. The lower portion of the blouse bodice 18 of the plain organdy. The upper cons of an embroidered yoke cut low at the front and lacing at the bust with black bebe vel- vet. More rihgs border this and cover the gathered elbow sleeves, and a very pretty point 15 & girdle of bias black veivet, whose sharply nartowed ends tie in a bow at the tront. . Long gloves of black silk or black kid stitched with white accompany all gowhs | de sortfe with elbow sleeves.. S8ilk and | thread mits are also seen, but these, being unbecoming.to any but the most beautiful hands and arms, are not in marked favor. The most stylish gloves of the season are in a mixture of thread and silk. These fit as snugly as kid and are as expensive. Finger tips are doubled, the ehort gloves showing heavy stitchings at the back and blg, mannish looking pearl buttons. Try them if you want your hands to look modish and look comfortable at the same time. One dollar will buy a very dapper pair, and they may be elther all white or black stitched with white. The | last sort are good purchases for all round wear. But, however stylish they are, all the world does not wear the black and white gloves, many smart women preferring a glove to match the gown. In the pale grays, browns and violets of the new cot- ton textures these seem very fetching. Hot weather underwear is just now being made a specialty with many of the £00d shops. A pleasing simplicity is ob- served in the best of these pretty ga ments, which are in the thinnest textures, and white as usual predominating over color. = Batiste, French dimity and lawn are some of the coolest materials, these sporting ‘the simplest embrolderies or lace beadings strung with narrow ribbons. The lawn chemises and drawers with narrow Valenciennes edgings are admirable pur- chases. With every washing these seem to get' more sheer, and compared with other materiale the lawn things are very chéap. Several new models are observed in the the princess petti- coat being one very late and pretty nov- elty. This has the bomed corset girdle of the princess gowns worn several seasons ags, with 2 fiz age, with crzamantal e gussets and deep embroideries for the skirt bottom. A thin white linen is the material most used for such models, whose fitted walst portions require a texture with some body. The Emplre chemise, a dainty short-waisted little garment with babylsh puft sleeves, is another pretty novelty, and many of the thinnest night- gowns have wide kimona sleeves. - A very neat and inexpensive gown is of white striped batiste with plain lawn to the Chicago exposition a magnificent set of sixty pieces, embroidered with a design of butterfiy orchids, which was shown by the consent of Mme. Patti, for whom it ‘was worked. At once Mrs. Gilchrist liter- ally awoke to find herself famous. The slik imitating the actual texture of the flower was even better than the brush. When it was decided to send over a case of American needlework to the recent Paris exposition Mrs. Gllchrist was asked to con- tribute a plece. She selected an arrange- ment of pansies hanging loosely over a rib- bon, from a painting by a French artist, using, however, the natural flowers to work from. The committee on awards unani- mously gave her the gold medal over all other competitors for. beauty and natural- ness of -color and design. The exquisite beauty of this panel at- tracted the attention of Queen Alenandra, who has all a woman's fondness for em- broldery, and when Mrs. Glichrist, who had previously vainly tried to get some of her work accepted by Queen Victorla, wrote with little hope of success to Queen Alex- andra’s private secretary, Lady Knolly, she ‘was surprised and delighted to receive a courteous acceptance from her “owing to the unusual circumstances.” Mrs. Glichrist decided on an adaptation of the design used for the Paris exposition worked on a tea set as her gift to the queen. In making the designs for this set Mre. Glichrist first made a careful water- color drawing direct from nature, From this the working design was outlined, free- hand, with ordinary pen and ink directly upon the cloth. Commencing at the outer edge of each petal every leat was worked toward the center. Every few stitches the needle was refllled with silk a shade darker or lighter, as the case might be, from the skein arranged in exact color gradations in front of her. From this description it will be seen that Mrs. Gilchrist's ‘method of art needlework differs from that of the painter only in a technlcal way. Every Ittle shadow on the flower is faithtully re- produced, and there are thousands of tiny stitches in each pansy. The exceeding neatness and care by which the soft, smooth, velvety texture is achieved may be best illustrated by thec fact that it is very difficult to distinguish one side from the other. No knots or loose ends are allowed to show. Lately Mrs. Gilchrist has turned her at- tention toward the popular beadwork and has achleved great success in applying the trill edgings, and for those who suffer much from sum beat there are models 80 cut out at t to seem al- most decollete. ' Suok Btyles boast no sleeves to speak of, the arm covering being the tinlest of pufls. They are drawn in at the bottom with narrow wash rib- bons, run through lace or embroidery bead- ings, the same simple treatment showing at the round or square cut -neck. Very little silk underwear is now worn by smart women, the most elegant of the fashionable preferring the daintler cot- tons. But the shops are full of silk under The best things, in this line are made of a very delicate’ quality of white china silk, with the hems of frills and flounces fa- gotted om. Drawers are wider than ever, looking in some casés with their deep flounces like divided skirts. Twenty-seven inches is the modish length for these. MARY DEAN. CMBROIDERY FOR THE QUEEN, OON GOWN OF WHITE VEIL- ING WITH BLACK EMBRQIDERIES. same methods of natural shades and colors to this branch of embroidery which b generally been supposed to admit of only the most stiff and formal designs. A WIFE'S POCKET MONEY., Dark Ages When Wives Forced to Dishonesty. 80 much has been sald about the allow- ance that the wife should have that it is idle to speak of it further, since there are now few men with any aspiration Were Queen Alexandra Has Waived Court Rules to Accept a Present. That 1o presents can be received by mem- mers of the royal family save .from per- sonal friends is one of the strictest un- written rules of the English court. The acceptance by Queen Alexandra of an em- broidered tea set from an American woman Is, therefore, a compliment as unusual &s it is @istinguished. e Through the courtesy of Mrs. Ameoret Gliehrist, photographs of the work, now ready for shipment, have been made and are here reproduced. From the completion of the famous Bay- eux tapestry, which was not tapestry at all, but rude figures worked with the fa- miliar cross stitch on a band of canvas only twenty inches wide, but over 200 feet long, down to the hideous worsted ‘‘land- scapes” of our grandmothers, embroldery #s an art, made little progress, if we ex- cept some of the besutiful ecclesiastical needlework of the middle ages. About fiftéen years ago Mrs.. Gllchrist, wh is ca) of (he plomcers cf the “art needle- work'' movement, became convinced of the Ppogsibility of producing in broidery ng of nature as closely as brugh. The greatest dif- ficuity at first was the paucity of shades supplied by the silk manufscturers. Bach delicate modulation’ of tint must be worked with mn-(hl dyed just that hue. When it {s stated ‘that in the queen's tea set Mrs, Gilchrist has used fully seven @istinet shades of purple alone some idea of the difficulties to be overcome can be imagined. The technical obstacles were #lso enormous. The so-called “Kensington long and short stitch was found best adspted to the purpose, but the effect of one Woman’s Nightmare pure. The crif al ordeal through pass, however, is so fraught wit that the very thought of No woman's happi. ness cun be complete without children; it is her nature to love nd want them as much so as it is to love the % beautiful and which the expectant mother must dread, pain, suffering and danger, it fills her withpd . =+ apprehension and horror. ‘There is no necessity for the r:g.mduc!ion of life to be either painful or dangerous. The use of Mo the coming event that it is safely great and wonderful remedy is always . sppliedexternally,and has carried thousands of women through the t; nwdc without suffering. flm book containing information o value to all mothers. The Bradfield Reguiator Co., Atlasta, Ga. r's Friend so prepares the system for passed without any danger. This toward social decency who do not afford the wife a separate sum, in accordance with their acknowledged means, which she shall be at liberty to spend unques- tioned. Of course it is not a fiction and the hus- ——ee e THE DAINTY FROCK OF band was not uttering a falsehood when he said, “with all my worldly goods I thee endow,” the allowance is only a por- tion of her due; and even It marriage were nothing but a civil contract her rights un- der that contract as an equal partner would qutitle her to all she is likely to receive. How much better js this fashion than the old one, In which the wife was obliged to humble herself and ask for every penny she ever had to spend, had to ex- hibit the condition of her shoes, tell of her lack in wardrobe, often go without her new bonnet rather than say another word about it, often forget her own needs altogether in order that Johnny and Janet might have what their little souls had longed for—a fashion under whose sway her heart beat and her nerves trembled for days be- fore she could summon her courage to ask for what she could do without no longer; and if then her husband gave her some unexpectedly large amount she more often than not burst into tears of surprised glad- ness that ought to have filled his soul with shame whether or not they did so. There was in the day of that cruel cus- tom of glving no fixed sum for the private and personal use of the wife, but of walting to see what was indispensable and then skimming on that, many a man who, willing to glve and to give generously, yet pre- ferred to have the spending of the money This wan had the iheory ihat women do not know how to spend money, and it there was any spending to do pre- terred to do it, so that iIf his wife asked for the pennies to buy a spool of cotton he went and bought it himeelf, bought, per- haps, two spools of cotton, whether, as just mentioned, he had the theory that women are unskilled in spending or be- cause he feared the ‘“change” might be lost to him, or that he felt it took the bloom off womankind to go shopping, while vaguely forefeeling that new woman who not only goes shopping, ‘but keeps shop, and does large wholesalé business and mingles freely with the world of men, and keeps her bloom and asks no man for ‘money. It was In those old days that more than cno woman felt she committed her soul to sin and doubtless did, when at night, while the good man slept, she filched a dime or a quarter or a couple of quarters from his pocket in order to pay a charwoman tor labor she herself was unequal to, to lay by and add penny to penny until she could buy Johnny's shoes or some tiny treasure he longed for, or possibly in order to have a bit of money in her purse that other women might not see her worse off than a beggar. When that man by his parsimony or his vanity carried to extremes made his wife & thief, is it not & wonder that he never thought he was making a thief of the mother of his children and that sons inherit from their mothers? The suffrage itselt, If it ever be granted will not be such a feature in the independ- ence of ‘'women as the generous allowance is. The woman who bas it cultivates at opce her taste and her judgment; her sense of responsibility is developed; her knowledge of materials and markets and I CHITALY < some use. cally as good as when new, while cases— and at there is not a poor bargain in the 1ady's parlor. we quote A FEW OF only . . style—only These two will give you some gains. you vant a New Plano August is LET US TELL YOU WHY. THE CLEVER NEEDLEWOMAN. men, and she learns how to make both ends meet, it not to make two and two make | five. At present, all but intoxicated by what seems wealth, she may lavish it in grati- tying her desires, but presently she becomes a rigld economist and exercises such a care over expenditure that if her husband knew of it, would cause him to think the al- 1813 Farnam St,, Omaha, An elegant Square—with carved legs and Iyre= Why Not Buy Now N True, It's Warm! So Are th§ Bargains We Offer You. We still have a few of those good, serviceable planos that have seen Some have only been used a short time, many are practl- others have' had conslderable service. There are all styles and finishes, some of‘thewld Grand Squares, but the majority are Upright—in mahogany, oak, walnut, rosewood and ebony THE PRICES MARKED bunch. They have all been thor- oughly overhauled and polished and are in presentable condition for any So you may get an idea of what we have to show you, THE MANY . P32 A good Upright—repolished—action regulated and neat idea of the genuineness of these bar- WE HAVE ABOUT TWENTY EQUALLY GOOD ONES. They will be sold on very easy_terms, such as will suit your convenience. 1f the best month in the year to buy. Schmoller & Mueller Manufacturers, Wholesale and Retail Plano Dealers, 502 Broadw.y, Couneil Bluffs, SCHOOLS, lowance a positive saving of money to the family. And she moves about with the dignity and freedom and care for others | given her by this purse of her own, she | looks not with more pity on the woman | who has no allowance than she does with contempt on that woman's husband. Established 1867, » Hints of Fashion, Some simple, pretty mi trimmed with sweet pes Blue chiffon veils have an embroidered Vine ‘around the edge done in viyid green silk. Bulld! The stvel an Institution of its kind. ummer hats are is the strongest ever assem ve members. A pretty tulle velling has small stars at the angles of the fine-threaded plaids run- ning through it. Tartan silk, still used as a trifaming to some extent,’ can be purchased fn lovely colors at extremely low prices. In the August sales one can pick up all , etc., sorts of attractive remnants in the wi Dr. Loul of fichus, laces, berthas, undersieeve at considerable less t their first of & month or so back. Rudolph Ganz (fhe monogram fad has no:“ attacked Fellx Borowskl e Tas and a 18| n| PArasol in the natural color showed an embroidered | @ S EDMOND VERGNET the world. ot's monogram about three inches long done Farts in_bright red embroldery silk. .l Color muslins—the season’s end—are on the counter In great profusion and at half rice. ‘The &IY pompadous de: is seen n ‘many different colorings and trimmed with ribbons and laces makes a most ef- fective costume, Small writing cases can be carried in the Saens’ 8amson and Delllah an 'Mi‘_ll.l the National to the colioge fac OV 3 NOTE—Applications for the & fres and 160 partial GHICAGO MUSICAL COLLEGE or. Ziegteld, Pres. College Bullding, 202 Michigan Bivd., Chicago, Iil. I College of Music and Dramatio Art in Ameriea. e e e e £ ot e A e ox A TR XY R TR " Srep. Tosil 2 ex e, facult dambled [n o it of any college of musical learning and Instruction an Sohool of Acting, Sohool of Opera, ELOCUTION, Modern Languages. POARD OF MUSIOAL DIREOTORS! Falk Bernhard Listemann Herman Devries Hans Von Schi S. E. Jacobsohn *Edmond Vergnet r Hart Conway, Director School of Acting. {amous tenor, who created the loading tenor rolos in Satnt Masser forod lade, for the past five years instructor of NMD;KM Freoch Government, 3Tth SEISOI' IElIIS- SEPTEMBER 8. Now lilustrated Gatalogus Mailed Froe. @ EEWEIENDTS B EETIINDTR B ‘Soholarsiips will bo recetved until Aug. M pocket and vet have al the material for . The cases of n are about tl ‘writin, size of a square envelope and thick enougl to hold a package. have conven- lences fbr carrying ink, others have merely a penell slipped in. Worthy of speelal mention are tl and white checked sllks that make o sults, with narrow lnmmln&un s of rcd, black. white or cerise taffeta Med in scrolls or large Greek figures pn skirt and ‘walst, presenting an unique appearance that is entirely new this season. A_well equipped school for girls. the Women's college of Baltimore, the Chicago, n for any college open to wom:n, pecial attentlon to the sense of soclal responsibility. ns. me have long skirts but the majority just escape the ground and are stitched or finished with Principa! evelopment of individuality and also the development of a Thoroughness insisted upon as essential to charae- ter bullding. Out-door sports and a large, new 'BROWNELL HALL. Graduates of Vassar college, Radciiff col! University of Nebras| included {n the corps'of Instructors" for guages taught by women of extended residence in Euroj ction of the best masters. e and the University -03. usic, art and the pean capital eneral education and pres Gives good, fe Geriicats admits to college, Galaf sunn; gymnasium equipj with A Tl o Sheacking. canvas OF | Gwedish appuratus. Physical training daily under the direction of a professional “tob dresses’ and prove very servioeabls | instructer, Hanpy home life. Terms woderate, Bend for catalogue. Address Miss sults for all oect 8ol Macra Omaha. bands in exactly the same style as the cloth pedestrian skirts. In preference to thffeta, which does not wear very well, many of the most beau- tiful silk ‘walsts are made of peau de sole and peau de crepe. They are tucked and plaited, often inserted with motifs and squares of white, hlack or pcru lace. The silk is cut away beneath these applica- tions so the lining of contrasting color will show through. 3 DVORAK DRAMATIC ScHooL EDW. DVORAK, Director. Kimball Hall, 243 Wabash-av., Chicago. ACTING ELOCUTION RALL TERM BEGINS SEPT. 8, Catalog Malled Free. re made with houlders rnd t thers clrrfl more litera ‘v fiared with dec linen qutts to match the new style collars. A cunningly devised comb made of Ger- man_ silver, with a resistance cofl hid in the back and to this fastened a long wi which is (o be conmected with an electrio gnerey; is a new device for dry H Rl a ) Conservat.or & eure fo dindruff ‘and hervous and neuralgio head: | pfMsseand Dramatte tpoWost Fit o Bons | ‘/' e A R ) CHARMING HOT WEATHER UNDERW&AR. it é:flg:-. TN MAFTRIAEDT, Directon " 1902—‘“ChittendenHall,” Kearney, Neb. —~[902 Dr. Chittenden will open his new board- Ing school for girls, to be known as “MAN. BION SCHOOL, ept. 28. Boys recelvzd under 14 ¥or urther (nformation address Chittenden Hall, Kearney, Neb. SAN FRANCISCC, CAL.— August 2nd to 10th, Inclusive. HOMESEEKERS’ EXCURSION— Tuesdays, August 5th and 19th. HOME VISITORS’ EXCURSIONS— Sept, 2nd, 9th, 16th and* 2rd To all points in Ohlo and Indiana west of and including line drawn through Sandugky, Columbus, Dayton, Springfield, Cincinnati and Loulsville. For further information address any agent of the company or T. F. GODFREY, P. and T. A B. E. Cor. 14th and Douglas Sts, Omaha. A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER R.T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL EAM, OR ‘MAGICAL BEAUTIFIE! Removes Tan Pimpiea, Freckles, Moth Patches, Hash and Skia de- ’tm. and every ) biemian"on vesutz, lowa Collage, Grinnell, lowa DAN F. BRADLEY, President. Bith Year Opens September 17th, 192. FACULTY of thirty-five; well appointed LABORATORIES: MUSEUM; LIBRARY of thirty thousand volumes; Men's and Women's GYMNASIUMS; ' ATHLETIO IOWA COLLEGE SCHOOL OF pecial course In Organ and Churej usic. IOWA COLLEGE ACADEM prepares for any coliege. For information address, J. H. T. MAIN, Dean of tbe Faculty. D BorlIETS It s a positive cure of Pains in Back, Poor "Appetite, ‘Coated Tongue, Dlnflm. Headache, Pains in Side and Back, Sick Btomach, ‘'Night Sweats, Stiffness in Limbs and Joints, Rheumatism, Palpitation of the Heart, 'LaGrippe, etc. 30 treat- ment % cts. All Druggists, harmiess we taste it 1o be sure is properly made. Sayre sald to & dy of the haut-ton @ patient); ¢ Jou jes will use them, I recom- - nd ‘GO UD'S CREAM' as eas :‘::nl of all the Bkin preparatio sale by all Druggists and. Fancy Goods rein the U8 ahd Europs FERD, T. HOPKINS, vy #1 Great Jones Bt N. X. Solid Comfort Speed Safety Scenery Lackawanna Railroad Sgi ICAGO NEW YORK Three Trains Daily A oy v Motiond GEO. A. CULLEN Gea'l Western Pass's Agent 103 Adams Street, Chicago THE 1 E . ./ Bilr e SRR MAGASIVE OF KYSTEAINS, 34 ¥. Willlam 8., .Y, Otty, w=THE BEFEu= A Daily Educator -