Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, July 13, 1902, Page 14

=== ——F = 3 SIMPLE SUMMER FROCKS. ne, Thelr Making and Trimming. for somehow simplicity is not enly an un- | the one immediately beneath. This second usual but an expeasive quality. Ready made dress frocks for misses are ridicu- lously furbelowed, and good taste demands that they should be otherwise. Simple lines NEW YORK, July 0.—A tour of the shops | and girlish effects of trimming are the re- will Just aew result in the finding of many inexpensive textiles, the charming color- and delicacy of which admit of the dressiest effects. Rarely lovely muslins, painted gauzes and organdles are seen at prices so low that one marvels that the whole world is not gowned in airy lace- trimmed attire. True, the making up of wuch loveliness is a polmt that few of us can afford not to consider, but a high priced dressmaker Is not, with these mod- est fabri necessity, Any woman who has some knowledge of dress may direct the undertaking, and a gcod pattern with @ fairly sensible seamstress can do the rest, If heaven is on the side of the right, the gown will be made In two days, with & little help from its prospective wearer, of course. With the desire to Instruct in the ways and means of acquiring pretty summer gowns without much expenditure, let toll you that anyome of the 13%-cent musling now in the market is an admir- able foundation for one. In choosing it, lect rather an unusual pattern and & distinctive blending of colors than the con- ventlonal designs and tints everybody buys ‘Then If there s an old silk evening dress on band that can no longer do duty for 'outeide wear, use it as & foundation, mak- /ing the lining separate trom the muslin. Even the cheapest thin materials should be put over silk if possible, but if this iannot be sccomplished a coarse, crisp "white swiss will be found the mext desir- {able lning. That is for the drop skirt, for, of course, swiss is too barsh a mate- rial to be worn next the body. Knowing this many dressmakers do not even at- tempt the bodice linings, the stipulators for swiss doubling preferring to wear lit- tle corset bodies, {n soft mull or fine nain- ®ook. These, with lace beadings, they buy ready made, taking care that the garment s cut round at the meck. The square-cut {underwalsts with frill edgings and too many ribbon fxings, have a chemise look, which 18 sometimes to be avolded with & very dlaphanous walst. Gause waists, those with floral centers and band borders in pale tints, will trim these muslin frocks delightfully. Plain and point d'esprit - footings provide airy and inexpensive edgings for flounces, and 1 & yellow tone is liked for these it may be accomplished by soaking the lace fn & light solution of ochre and water. How- ever be sure these mellowed edgings are put only with the right thing; with blue— etpecially asure—rose, green and white. For this gown get Loulslana organdy in a vivid canary, The combination of white with sparkling {s ravishing. Making and Trimming. As to ways of making several of the week's simple designs afford factle and dainty sug- gestions. The tollette at the left of the group loture is of opaline organdy with rib- ns in pale green and knots of black vel- ‘et, The skirt is made with a deep fiounce, the ribbon garnishings disposed at intervals in up and down stripes, with the welvet rosettes holding them at the top. Whe lower portion of the bodice, which shows a deep tucked yoke, is entirely in box pleats. A velvet breast knot is a dis- tinotive note;with the waist, which, ke mest of the thin summer gowns, s cut out 8t the th The choking, heating stocks, which were once ¢onsidered the only modish neck finish, have had their day. The prettiest frocks all show the bare throat, sometimes & modicum more than the throat, and one ®eos in the street wome that are almost decollette. But, 0dd as it may seem, this public ex- hibition of fair persons does not hold good where the arms are concerned. Your col larbones may show, but mot your elbows, #0 for the short sleeves now so much worn the responsible world brings forth long sllk gloves, whose tops must touch t sloove edge, wherefore the arms of most of the world bear a close resemblance to those the angular Gullbert once thrust over the footlights, for the modish s!lk islove is always black. . A tan pongee represents one of the box gowns—dress lengths, with furnished trim- mings—which all the shops are selling. The orpamentation is in black and tan em- broldery and the square meck shows an- other method of shaping stockless gowns &t this voint, A round throat distinguishes the third costume, which is of pale yellow organdy, ‘with white lace beadings, strung with black ‘welvet bebe ribbon. The stockless bodice necessitating some ®ort of throat mufing on occasions stylish i t, are seen in all the colors ol The best of them cost from t very good effects can be ob- il i, 7 §§ g H russels net, and tulle scarfs the wisp wrapping the throat only looping at the front. There any bow here, all throat deco- 1" - !;g snd drop away from it toward the shoulders in flat frills. The bunchy, high, up-stand- neck ruffie is distinctly passe. Neat parasols for simple frocks reveal shirred and tucked feats in silk-muslin. Then there are flounced foulard sunshades ‘with huge spots for pattern, and other very stylish silk ones in tiny pin stripes, the black and white examples of which are wery smart with colored costumes. For lnen dresses all tucked parasols In the same material are very stylish, but with these and other plain costume sunshades the ferrule rosstte is omitted. On all the others it appéure, as well us the silk handle Sassels. By such trifiing marks is the true ©hild of fashion kpown! Costumes for M) ‘The maiden of 16 Is & difficult being to eostume in these days of fuss and feathers, 'BABY'S ‘VOICE feel the exquisite thrill fear, Evm of child. can be entirely plisble all the , and assists nature in its sublime work, By its aid thousands of women have passed this great crisis in perfect saf and without pain. bottle by druggists. Our book of value to all women sent free. Address ided b & scientific liniment for -:m::l"-n m{ym oo Sold at $1.00 quirements for the Jume fille, though her pale party frock may be made in the rich- est satin. Chiffon and ribbon sashes may be hers, and she may wear small patterned sllks, polnt d'esprit, plain net and can- vas. But her trimmings are all babyfled, her bodice knots tight rosettes, her flounces scant and not too many of them. The girl from 8 to 14 is a much dressler young person, and the really little girl can be pranked (n the most extravagant fashion. A charmingly suitable costume for & maiden of 16 is In tapestry blue ponges, for pongees are now seen in other colors than /) 7 "’/mul n-‘\w | | tray Is very useful when it comes with the canvas strip or lattice work Instead of a board bottom, then it does not offer the hard, flat surface to crush the light-weight gowns immediately beneath it. The heavier things should be put first into the trunk. By heavler thi Is meant woolen and cloth dress skirts, golf capes or the steamer rug which is a very useful article to take on land trips. Fold the rug to a size corresponding to the floor of the trunk and lay it in. Then comes the golf cape, which can be folded first on the floor, having the folds In the lines they would | naturally take when the cape is hanging from the shoulders. Plck the skirts up by the walstbands (which should be hooked in the way intended when being worn) and let them fall Into the natural folds. i Y T, \ SIMPLE COSTUMES SIMPL: MADE. in the course of ti pre unless stimulate to ceases to exist. One thing as a rule, never does cease to exist, Is her objection to the way in which her husband corrects the children. Yet to Iift an eyebrow about it she knows is not only likely to make a bad matter worse, but is bad for the children themselves; and not by A look askance—unless positive and unbearable cruelty supervene—will she dis- count the father's influence and authority. Nor does any of this imply that there is to be the least deceit on the part of the wife. If she is asked, or if ahe finds it nec- essary, she will declare her state of mind; but experience and observation have shown her that tact is the viceroy of suceess, and that It sccomplishes much more than the direct means of open opposition do. Moreover, great love will always make her wish that her husband should be fi should have his own way wherever it Is possible; and it tells her that he would too often give up his way for hers if he knew her way were other than his; and she frequently derives her greatest happi- ness in keeping her differing way effectu- or ranker most which, tan. A dim, soft greem, with black and white embrolderies, is & very effective tinted pongee, suitable for all the ages of sirthood. The model of the blue gown, which is here {llustrated, s an admirable one for slight figures. The blouse bodice and upper por- tion of the skirt are fitted with small tucks. The band bordering the jupe is two inches wi out bias and put on in lapping lengthe. A narrow piping of black or white may outline it, and serve as a finish for cuffs and collar of waist, The hat is & flat shape of white and black ribbon straw. A long, white quill is placed slantingly across the front, and the other trimmings are of black ribbon velvet. A black velvet bow also tles the young woman's hair in the queue worn by girls with shortish locks. Apropos of the colored pongees, there are some tinted knob buttons that combine beautifully with them. These are made of bone, and for wash materials they are put on, with brass. rings, the eyelet through which the shank of the button siips being buttonholed. MARY DEAN. A TRAVELING NECESSITY. Trunks of Vari Shapes — How to Pack Them. The modern watchword of “convenience” has made great innovations in the con- struction and arrangement of trunks. One ©of the newest will be dear to the heart of every woman, being labeled “a skirt trunk.” It is forty-four inches long, thus sdmitting a skirt to be stretched out at full length. The inside is provided with a serl of trays, about flve or six in number and of the average depth of four inches. Into | these the skirts are packed; light-welght {ones can be put in separately, but partic- ularly fluffy or beruffied affairs being as- signed an entire tray to itself and thus rendered perfectly safe from creases. One or two of these upper long trays can be used to pack waists in and the top sec- tion is about seven inches deep and divided into several partitions, including hat box and receptacles for ribbons, collars, under- clothing and all small articles. The attempts to carry more than one hat in & general trunk has been abandoned by the woman of experience and a separate hat trunk conaldered @ necessity it three or more dalnty hats are required. These hat trunks in their latest form are about’the size of & big hat box in which the milliner sends a hat home. The floor and Ik each of the four sides are fitted with a detachable frame, to which the hat is mdjusted by & hatpin in the same man- ner as when put on the head. These frames y be removed from the trunk and the mpty trunk used is an ordinary packing trunk for a visit of a fow days. nally it has the appearance of an English- man's “box. .~ The trunk in which walsts and skirts are hung on frames~from hooks in the top (the small end of the trunk) answers the pur- pose of a wardrobe or closet and econo- mizes space; the top tray swings out and is seen to be fitted out ke & small cub- board or chiffonier with shelves and little drawers. But how about the woman with a com- paratively old-fashioned thirty-six-inch trunk? Her task is less easy, but by tak- ing thought she can save her wardrobe from creasiog and pack twice as much in s given spac her careless sister. The first principle to be observed is to keep the contents of the trunk in flat layers— this was evidently understood by the man who first devised “trays.” But a lot more can be packed in a trunk if the trays remaoved—all except the top one, having several compartments in it, and possibly Is the joy of the househald, for without it no happiness can be complete. sweet the picture of mother and babe, angels smile at and commend the thoughts and aspirations of the mother bending over the cradle. The ordeal throug| which the lfix&cctnl mother must y ever, is so of danger and ur“ she looks forward to the hour when she shall of motherhood with i i i um'" h indescribable dread and How h bow- that the danger, pain 's Friend, » which toughens and renders OTHER'S FRIEND Lay them in the trunk with the bottom | edge of the skirt touching the side end of | the trunk. Any folding which will.be nec- essary should be made from the waist- band, downwards, as a crease at this part will disappear more quickly when the skirt | is afterward taken out and hung at length | in a closet, by reason of the welght of the | entire skirt being below the crease. The | skirts should be placed In with the bottom of one at the left end of the trunk and the bottom of the mext at the right end, so on, alternating until all are packed, this an even distribution of the bulk and preserves the plan of flat surfaces and par- allel layers. If the skirt has a long train the excess should be folded back from the point at which it becomes longer than the front and sides. When the skirts are thus all disposed of (except the very light- est-welght ones having ruffies or flounces, which should be reserved for the top of | the section), the underclothing can be put in, petticoats at full length, smaller gar- ments in the natural folds in which they | come from the laundry. These can be so' disposed over the surface of the space as to pi rve the flatness of the mess. When the body of the trunk is thus packed the tray for waists is next to be considered. Anything finer than a laun- derea shirtwalst should have the sleeves stuffed with tissue paper and the neck treated in the same way—when the walst has a collar on. Many waists can be packed in the same compartment with perfect saf- ety if this plan is pursued. The top sec- tion of the trunk, divided into compart- ments, can be used to hold the numerous small accessories of the wardrobe. It is well to leave shoetrees in the heavier walking shoes, but paper stuffed into the toes of slippers will keep them in shape. It your trunk contains a hatbox remem- ber that that it is only Intended for a hat, and do not defeat :ts purpose by put- ting other things into the apparently sur- plus corners. If you use common cense you can Snap your fingers at the expressuian. IN THE BACKGROUND, of Keeping One's Feelings Sometimes Unexpressed. A woman begins upon her wedding day that suppression of herself and her other- wise visible emotions that life from year to year requires of ber. Why it bas be- come a matter of established and sxpected form that on the occasion of the most sacred and personal affairs of life—the bridal and the burlal—doors should be thrown open and a cloud of witnesses should be asked in to view the exhibition, is explained only by our love for the spec- tacular or by the survival of the old inter- est in gladiatofial shows and the Gtaiting of the bear. But the publlc wedding in the crowded church, or with the throng of guests at home, has become & usual thing, and the bride’s business {s to look as lovely as fate allows and to show no atom of emotion or of inner feeling, neither that of a Venus Victric or of a lamb led to the slaughter. It is mot an easy task; but she usually suc- ceeds in it; and when well done it helps her, with various previous experiments, to keep in the background her life long much of the visual evidence of herself which she finds it best {o reserve from sight and knowledge. There may be many a thing about her husband not to her taste, as with equal possibility there may be much about her not to his taste either; things seen in th tamiliarity of married life and unguessed before, bat which husband or wife can no more change now than the leopard can vurnge his epots. The husband, the wife, was loved before, it is still desired by both to love and to be loved, to maintain the warmth of mutual affection, each is still dear in spite of any fault; and thus a very necessary suppression of personal tastes and preferments takes place almost at once. 1f, for fnstance, & wife said just what she thought or showed just what she felt con cerning her husband's friends who come into her purview, there would either be & great disturbance upon the spot and it would be found out who was master, or 1d take to meeting his somewhere outside the home, where it might be best meither for him nor her. Or, again, & wife perbaps objects to her busband's pipe or cigar, but she kmows very well that it not to waste herself upon the small vices, but to re- serve her reprobation for the greater oe- casions. She may very possibly finds things that are unpleassnt to her in the traits of her husband's family—bul of what use to betray it? Without question he may feel the same about hers and it gives away ber advantage to express it. There they are, and the wisest and pleasantest course for ber 18 to suppress her feellng. And Virtue ally out of sight. Indeed that woman whose marriage has been most conspicuously a happy onme might tell you, if she would— that it has been so largely through a long self-effacement and suppression in many things, the balance of satisfaction being struck in others, and that it is not alone the women of the convent cell who are soen only behind veils and lattices. HARRIET P. SPOFFORD. VACATION SCHOOL FOR PARENTS, How the Lesson of Idleness May be Made Profital Wise mothers realize that their children have & knack of growing out of knowledge spiritually no less than physically, and count it among the blessings of vacation. that it gives time to make friends with their very own. Whether the summer days are spent at home or abroad, no mother who truly loves her boys and girls can af- ford to overlook the opportunity of sum- mer lelsure. If she can manage to make herself comrade, and leader In sports, the problem of family government is in a fair way of solving itself. Comradery and leadership require some- thing of tact and forethought. There must be nothing which smacks of infringement upon the true holiday spirit. Suggestions even squinting at school work are not to be endured. At the same time it is easily possible to make summer play fix and fruc- tify winter lessons. Onme woman at least found it so. She had summer charge of nine children between the ages of 8 and 12. A shallow stream ran over clean pebbles in front of the cottage, with other pebbles COLORED PONGEE. heaping the banks. There she set her charges to playing geography, that is to to making of pebbles and water is- lands, peninsulas, continents, capes, prom- ontories, bays, gulfs, straits, seas, even oceans. At first single things satisfied the continent bullders, but long before the sum- mer sojourn ended they bad bullt hemi- spheres, with rivers and mountain ranges duly running through. And it took moth- ing from thelr enjoyment of the bullding that_a Chicago lad insisted upon having Laké Michigan bigger than the Paeific ocean, nor that the Mississippl ran omce without the suspicion of & crook between mouth and source. Practical Lessons. From abstract geography the transition was easy to cities, and especially to bat- tleflelds. Here the titular mother showed herself invaluable—she knew about soldiers and generals, and had books which tol of military formations and the configura- tion of battle scemes. Battles themselves inevitably followed. It was thrilling to see lines of proud, red-coated tin soldiers man- euvered by three haughty British gemerals and one private advance to assault pebble- cotton bale breastworks, behind which & feminine General Jackson waved a kitch knife sword and shouted to her rifiemen, who, ltke herself, wore skirts: “Alm for the whites of their eyes.” Perry at Lake Erle was played lower down, where the shallow stream ran into another quite three feet deep. The flag- ship was & gorgeous thing of sails and paint —chips, chunks and a bit of plank, along with tin cans, leaking badly through the holes in which their stick masts wei stepped, made up the rest of the fleet. Only the boys fought in the naval battle—wading n boldly to touch off the firecracker can- non high on deck or slung at the masthead. The girls were sadly anxious to be Indlan Americans flouted them, they ram off with their heads very high and spent the whole afternoon working on the book of leaves. Books of Leaves, The book of leaves was going home to the littlest girl's papa, who knew every- thing about all the things that grew. All the ehildren could help with it, under cer- tain restrictions. That is to say, If they wers sure they wanted to badly enough to do careful work and keep their hande very clean. The book was stoutly bound with roughish blank pages, gravish white and of falr size. Leaf prints went upon one side of each page. To make them, fresh leaves well wilted were pressed against paper which had been evenly blackened by hold- ing it over the flame of a lamp. By rubbing the leat delicately it left ita image in white lines upon the black, but that did not count. From the black paper it was lifted into its place in the book, blackened side down, cove €red with soft paper, and rubbed all over with a bit of cotton, tled in thin It came away leaving its picture upon the book rage. There were few or many on age, according to size. The littlest girl's Papa was to name and classify the plctures ~a very good puzzle for him—and then the book was to ga into the library of & privat sctool. The work proved so fascinating several of the youngsters made leaf books of thelr own. Another among the older ones w: moved to skeletonize leaves and fill a bigger book with them. Printing leaves on sens! tive paper wi 180 tried, but the Ilittle people did not care for it, as they did not know how to fix the pictures after they were made. But they got no end of pleasure out of cheap drawing pads and plentiful celored crayon: Instruction from Pletures, Someflmes the titular mother told or read them something, making it as short and pain as possible, and letting each hearer plcture his idea of what he had heard. Some truly astonishing creatures resulted, but the story teller found the pictures wondertully instructive. They were indeed a fairly accurate index of the great temperamental differences in attention and comprehension, Bome of the children to whom spoken words seemed to convey the least were able, after seeing pictures In a beok, to come much nearer reproducing them than others who, working by hearsay, had done much better. Indeed, it is not too much to say that if for ten months in the year parents edu- cate their chlldren, throughout the other two normal children do a deal toward edu- ceting thelr parents. This, of course, when they have real parents so fully grown up they are glad to be In part children again. One such mother, who found herself unable to go out through a whole summer, kept her five children wholesomely happy and content by playing storfes with them. She got the best and brightest books—none of ¢hem juvenile—and read them to her flock, a chapter each morning. After the reading the youngsters were permitted to choose who in the story they would be. First cholce was the prize of all-around #ood behavior d no cholce at all the severest punishment. Whatever ‘was chosen the chooser had to live up to as nearly as possible unti] next morning. One of thoss children s to this day a griev- ance against fate, in that she was never lucky enough to be the fat boy in Pilck- wieck. A whole season of story playing s, of course, impraticable outside one's , own home. Bnt for a day or a special occasion it might serve very well. Cbildren lova nothing better than acting—witness their close imitation of those round about them. In the family, as in the state, the least governed are commonly the best governed and those so indirectly controlled they seem self-governed, the happlest and most Deaceable of all. Frills of Fashi The favorite material for mourning vells fs net. The up-to-date hammock is fitted with seat and canopy. Tartan plaids are the latest novelty § dress goods and ‘siks. e Molre is expected to be 4 tonadle silks of the fath. O° °f the fash A charming combination for a summer gown is mastic and green. The latest bathing sult shows the blouse tashioned in Gibson eftect. s Swisses, pin dotted in white, are preferred to those showing dots In color, Irish erochet lace of fine quality makes a dainty but expensive separate walst, The water Illy in black represents one of the novelties in floral millinery garniture. White buckskin shoes are considered the correct style to wear with white costumes. Wash belts. with harness buckles of brass, smart accompaniment for shirt waist Blue and mauve are beautifully blended in the garniture of some dalnty crestions of the milliner. Panne retains its supremacy and is ar- tistically combined in the trimming of volle and canvas gowns. ‘The skirt Is now to be had in smart fects in ron(n. both in natural color and pastel tints. 16 th ang Farnam Srs Omaha 1 Caus Druvines 47 AL ILLIAM S, BALDUFF, Ice Cream to churches, lodges, charita- ble insiitutions and picnics, Our agents in Ne- braska and western supply with our Ice Iowa will you Cream at the same price you can ob- tain at our store. TREAT YOURSELF AND YOUR FAMILY to some of our DELICIOUS ICE CREAM ; It's purity and richness surpass that made by any other house. Every process of the making is done in absolutely clean vessels and all the high quality of the fine ingredi- ents we use are retained. Three fine flavors—enough for eight people—-for 40c. Pint barrels, 20c. will fit in your pocket, Put up in a QUART BARREL which Take one along with you today. W. S. BALDUFF, 1520 Farnam Street. IN ADDITION TO PREMIUMS. Those Omaha Auditorium Cerfificates which we give in exchange for fifty Diamond “C” soap wrappers are IN ADDITION to the preminms which are always given with TWAD[C MARK. Among the daintiest effects in celling pr JE,,S07 the country home s a lattice ormed of vines and blooming flowers, Quietly and without any blow of trum-. ts Mrs, A. A. Anderson has given $100, o bulld free baths in one of New As & modeler of children's portrait statu- ettes Mrs. Sarah Greene Wright has earned an_enviable reputation. Mrs. Wright celved her first inspiration while watching some children who were playing in the Luxembourg gardens. Bhe a studio in New York City and has the distinction of being the only woman who makes chil- dren's portrait statuettes from life. Miss Frances Ritchie prefers keeping a tashionable family hotel in Ban Francisco and living & life of single blessedness to matrimony rie utiful, accom- lished and at one time wealthy, Miss tehle is said to have had_scores of ex- tremely eligible offers. A Ge: pring was once one of her admirers, and among her suitors have been millionaires, cat kings, capitalists and a $20,00,000 mine owner of S8an Franolsco, Mrs. Adelaide Augusta Jones Dean of Boston, now nearly $ years old, is the only surviving member of a juvenile chorus that ave the first public Tendition of 8. F. mith's now famous “America” at & pa- n held in the Park Stree evening of the Fourth chorus was made up on school children, drilled nder the direction of Lowell The emineat German portrait painter Frans von Lenbach admires #0 ethereal that they cannot be marriage unless they are adored and all the time. As for his own daughters, he takes care that they shall not learn too much, for tHat, he thinks, would s them. “For my Frll he the other fll{. ‘every day Is a holiday« only what is necessary and play of the tims A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER Dl. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER. i LABORATORIES: of thirty thousand volumes; Women's Musle. 1 prepares for any college. Sample certificates at Each certificate is a share of stock in the Omaha Audi- torimm. It also entitles you to one guess in the Auditorium Voting Contest, capital prize in which is $5,000 in gold. §6\99 PREMIUM STORE, 304 South 16th Street. ‘Forty Love” Tennis— Ping Pong— Hot Springs, South Dakota. LOW RATES, July 1 %o 13, 1008, Delightful place. First-class accommodations. Ask Agent “ Northwestern Line." SCHOOLS. BROWNELL HALL Graduates of five of the it de, Art and luca admits to college. ca fessional icstructor. lowa College, Grinnell, lowa DAN F. BRADLEY, President. 86th Year Opens September 17th, 1002 FACULTY of thirty-five; well appointed MUSEUM; LIBRARY GYMNASIUMS: I0WA COLLEGE 8C [9) urse in Organ and Churc] fal PfOWA ICOLLEGE ACADEM co OWA For information sddress, J. H. T. MAIN, Dean of the Faculty. known oolieges of Languages taught rica inclu in ot N of the best masters. Gives g0 o RAE, Principal, Omahs. NEW PUBLICATIONS,