Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, April 20, 1902, Page 14

N —_ ] i | THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY APRIL 20, 1902 === AN EXCESS OF FINERY, Decaration Takes the Sweet 8 Helty. NEW YORK, April 18.—Bweet Simplicity's occupetion is gone, and catentatious elabo- ration, that trembles on tNe verge of rank vulgarity, is the fault we have to find with the new spring fashions. Too many but- tons, tucks, stitéhed straps, lace encrust tions, velvet bands, pearl algrottes, and boas, clashing colors, puffs and trains, trills and dangles, are working together Just now for the destruction of the grace and taste and distinction of dress. The old adage holds that it is possible to have too much of a good thing and it applies with melancholy force to the modes of this year d the smart woman of the moment & shockingly overdressed. When arrayed in her best she looks distressingly like a freak advertisement for all the new fabrics and fancies of the hour. From her hosiery to her hatpins she s elaborated to the point of sheer absurdity, because she in- sts upon wearing all the pretty products of the counters combined in and over- whelmingly intricate, dazzling, flufty totlet. The Black Surtout. All these comments lead up to the an- Bmouncement that undersleeves are bigger than we have yet known them, trains are longer and hat frames, made almost solidly of pear! beads, are rampant in our streets. The craze of the hour Is for a long, loose black glace silk coat; this bas suddenly come into rivalry with the Eton coat made of black moire silk. The moire coat has given the little tucked taffeta affair a secondary place in the general estimation, but any one who owns a good taffeta coatee, and who wishes to bring It Into line with the prevalling style, must freshly face Its revers with tea-colored lace and hang a couple of little stitched leaf-shaped tails to its rear walst line. The heel-long black glace surtout s meant for street wear and It is rather coquettishly finished about the shoulders with highwayman capes, piped on their edges with white or a line of color. These take the place of the cloth Hurlingham and Hempstead coats so popular last winter, with the difference that the summer top coat has prodigious folded falling cuffs. Box backed, straight front cloth carriage coats, three-quarter In length and draped with mccordion pleated chiffon or gorgeous lace, are the amazing wraps Introduced for afterncon wear. One of the excuses for the adoption of these big coats, with their Renalssance collars, falling capes of lace and huge ves 1s that they are actually required protection agalnst the shrewlsh apring days when bland sunshine is not to be trusted. More than ever have we forced this srason by wearing transparent fabri and tucked silk muslin yokes and sleeves long before Easter, and your economical womgn buys one of these fine coats with the justifiable excuse that it makes a serv- fceable evening wrap in winter, after its spring season of usefulness is over. Collars and Shirt Waists, ‘Tassels of sllk, gold or silver at the ends of bulllon cords, narrow velvet or satin ribbone of the same color are one of the pretty momentary fancies for lacing and tylng together the ends of a collar or for use in place of hooks on a cuft, and one Boes frequently utilized, in place of buttons or links, on the cuffs of delicate lawn and wash silk. The extreme fancifulness of the season's TUB SUIT OF BRIDGE WOOL BLUE LINEN. #hirt waists Is not without a reasonable excuse. Your shirt walst should, in color and trimmings, match the skirt with which you wear it and the advantage s clearly shown in the nice summer tub sult of < Wedgewood blue limen. This shirt watst has a Gibson front, with a band of blue and ‘white needlework over the button flay. The skirt is of the same coarse, cool, blue Mloen, and its flounce,.with & hematitche edge and tucked top, Is headed by a band of embroldery that matches that om the walst. A Yale blue satin ribbon forms the belt and sash for as sweet apd serviceable # gown as a day's journey through the shops will show. This costume, and its wash madras com- panion, emphasize the effort that is every- where made to give the shoulders great Breadth and the hips and wafst exceeding slenderncsq. A wash madras, in this in- ! stance, Is a soft gingham with a fine, silky | finish, and this same model has been copied do teak brown Tussore, In sturdy @'Avrile and o butchers’ lipen is lald In e tucks with ereases stiched, and body s give mess at the foot by three ovi the edges of which are stitched Umes. The Bton coat, with its plentiful, the full- ‘Married Women velle | Its skirt their outer pping tucks, three N THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN shoulder-broadening collars, 1s worn over a black and white pin-dotted shirt of erepe de chine. Lace Incrustations. A halt dozen years ago inserted motifs of lace were comsidered very chic, and time, and the repetition of this mode of decoration, has not dimmed its charm and riety. Everything, from the linen shades at our front windows to the most dainty production in night dresses, accepts lace encruatations with grace and benefit. There is an aspect of the most sumptuous ex- travagance given any material to which lace is applied; a case in point is the afternoon tollet in the double column cut. This ls a clear poppy red silk on the order of a Lousene. It wae snatched from the bargain counter for a triffe over 50 cents a yard, and tucked and treated with black lace at 38 cents a yard. Minute steel buttons were lavishly sprinkled upon the straps that A CHARMING WASH DRESS. broke the surface of the lace-covered walst, and a yard of black panne formed the belt and collar. There was mot one expensive item in the whole composition of the gown, and yet the result was rich and brilliant in the extreme. A touch of lace, for that matter, k& im- portant, and today almost unavoidable in all the departments of dress. It plays a most serlous role with the millixers, and it 18 used as freely on wool as on silk. Tete- a-tete with the poppy red gown is a smart little study in slag-colored camels' hair velling, 6et off with straps of black taffeta The yoke and undersleeves are of coa | black fishnet lace, laid upon white silk, and | tho taffeta girdle is held by an arched gilt buckle covered with heavy turquoise blue enemel. Both of these growns fasten down the back. Organdies of Many K already given all the other There is every indication that organdies will outsell thin summer goods. Next after the or- gandty come ~ the dotted muslins, with dimities cutting a very small figure. It is as well for the lover of this enchanting fabric to know that there are a half-dozen different kinds of organdy: Organdy de sofe, organdy d'Indienne, organdy that is hand stamped and hand embroidered, ma- chine printed and mechanically embroldered. All of them are pretty, and a machine made cotton organdy is, to the eye of all but the very rich and particular woman, quite as effective as one with a woof of silk and decorated by expert Swiss needlewomen. A very lovely type of ecru, white and colored organdy comes as a box robe, all tucked and embroldered and prepared for erection into a gown. One such, bearing the strange new color defined as “milk blue,” 1s shown in & sketch. It is worked in designs of clel blue and further garnished with touches of sapphire blue velvet rib- bon. The hat, kerchief and sunshade used with this are made of the same organdy. Very gally flowered machine printed or- gandy is very much utilized for the making of pretty odd evening waists, to wear with white duck skirts to small country din- ners and dances, and the proper fairylike throat ornament to wear with such a decollete walst is a three-inch wide and two-yard long strip of white or pale blue silk tulle, strung at intervals of a half-inch with tinted imitation pearls. This, wound round and round the neck, sets off the charms of a pretty young throat or con- ceals the blemishes of an old one to the greatest advantage. MARY DEAN. BELTS, BANDS AND STICKS. Crase Among Young Girls for Men's College Pins and Troph Young girls, and especlally young Ameri- can girls, are seldom without admirer: chums or even brothers who are taking thelr turns at the various colleg The boys, no doubt, push through better and bave an added confidence in their own strength with the merry thought of these girls' comradeship. And in return for all their propelling good wishes, is it too much that the girls should expect to wear | their clase pios and other manly decora- tions? In these days of emancipated woman- kind, however, it seems of favoritism in a much more conspicuous | way than did those women who had no thoughts of independence in their heads. Up-to-date girls mow wear the pins they | bave cajoled from their admirers on a tiny black velvet band, or, rather, a narrow plece of velvet ribbon, which fits snugly about the right sleeve just below the shoulder. Sometimes two, three or even four pins are placed in a line on the little band. In fact, the more that can be shown the prouder is the individual whom they . Every woman covets a shapely, pretty figure, and many of them deplore the loss of their girlish forms after marriage. The bearing of children is often destructive to the mother’s shapeliness, All of this can be avoided, bowever, by the use of Mother's Friend before baby comes, as this great liniment always prepares the body for the strain upon it, and x:u.rvu the symmetry of her form. Mother's Friend overcomes all the | ger of child-birth, and carries this critical period without Thousands gratefully tell of the use of this wonderful remedy. Sold by all druggists at $1.00 per bottle. Our little book, telling all about this liniment, will be sent free. pain, the expectant mother safely through It s woman’s greatest blessing. benefit and relief derived from the Mother’s m.--.-.a.u.Frlend decorate. One popular girl was even heard to boast that she would soon have enough such pins to fashion herself a belt, instead of an arm band. But American girls are atrong in thelr patriotism. They generally choose a certain college for their all glance and then remain true to it; that is to say, they do not mix up in their col- lection the pins of various colleges. The several that they wear might represent many men and different years, but would generally be of the same college. 1t 18 only about the sleeves of their house gowns that girls wear the velvet band sup- porting these decorations. When they go out of doors and a coat is necessary they tasten one, or perhaps two, of the pins on the outside of their cuffs. The fad then becomes a case of “he who walks may tead,” as from such a place they gleam out most consplcuously. Another little wrinkle that the girls are now Indulging in is begging away the men's canes to use ae parasol sticks. Once such a trophy Is secured they indeed lose no time in having it made up with light, attractive stuff to match some summer gown. Of course, it is all the better it the cane has historic value, if it has come out the victor in a “rush,” or done some other gritty deed. Wise men, it is said, keep a sharp eye on especially beloved sticks, or even if they are crafty, hide them away. But the time when the girls are most alert Is at the end of their friends’ college life—when farewell is sald to the alma mater. Flags, trophies, even the furniture of rooms, is then freely given away. It is the time to secure a truly substantial souvenir. A man's desk and his easy chalr are usually spoken for long in advance, and It he has an open-hearted soul he will “clear out,”” as he calls it, all else but his brierwood pipe. One mistake he must be careful to avold, that of offering sofa cushions, embroidered flags or woolen sweaters back to the same fair damsel whose deft fingers may have made them. Another mistake, even greater, which {s pot unknown, is to bestow such things on the damsel's rival. COUNTRY HOUSE DRAPERIES, Cheap and Costly Materials for Win- dow Decorations. No fabric is nowadays considered too splendid to hang in one's windows under the guise of a shade or curtain. When the young duchess of Marlborough veiled the drawing room windows of Blenheim with blue chiffon her touring compatriot sald it was a shocking extravagance, but nowadays real lace, worth anywhere from $50 to $150 a yard is no uncommon sight in the long French windows of new houses put up by our millionaires. The shades and curtains in some houses really merit the descriptive adjective gorgeous and the elaborate dress- ing of windows has recently reached a point almost of absurdity. Four different sets of drapery, piled one upon another, are not considered super- fluous for a single window. First come the pane sashes, then the rolled shade, then t| long white undercurtains and finally the silk, sllk velour, satin or velvet curtaine proper that match the furnishings of the room. In one very fine new house, put up at the expense of a man whose money actually bothers him, the decorator esti- mated the dressing for six drawing room windows at $3,000 apiece and his estimate was not questioned. Women who are ambitlous to garnish their windows with equal elaboration and less expense do mot use real lace, silk shades, tinted Indian tissue and brocaded satin, but get almost as nice an effect with cotton point esprit, ivory linen shades and velours, and just at this season they are all mightily exercised over the redressing of the windows In their country homes. For a country house drawing room of any pretentions whatsoever to elegance it is necessary to use as elaborate a scheme of window drapery as in a city house, but unless the house s one of extreme mag- nificence silk and real lace and brocade are not the proper things to use. Pane curtalns in a country house par- lor should be made of cream mercerized madras or mercerized lawn of a strong tea color. These sashes should hang flat against the glass and be treated with appli- cations of imitation Russian or Irish crochet lace. It s the shade of cream, antique yellow or tea brown linen that must be frilled. Of a fashionable make, this has insets of not expensive lace let in near its bottom edge, or it is still less expensively woven with & drawnwork bor- der. To a pointed or scalloped edge the soft, thin linen flounce, lace edged, is set on, and such a shade among the smart house decorators is called a Monte Carlo blind. For a gay chinz upholstered salon the chief drapery of the window should be satin-surfaced chinz or mercerized cretonne brilllantly flowered and hung upon under- curtains of white lawn that has big, soft shadow flowers stamped upon its surface. The cretonne or chintz breadths are very fancifully looped about the top of the win- dow and fastened with crushed rosettes of the same; and while the chinz Is mot frilled or fringed along its edges, the flounce of CORRECT DRAPERIES FOR COUNTRY ’ &L Lot A LIGHT SUMMER WOOL. the shadow printed under drapery peeps | out and does the duty of a finish. conspicuous poles and rings characteristie of draperies a few years ago, have all but disappeared. They are now considered highly inartistic, and In country house bedrooms it is the fashion to use cottage draperies. With enameled furniture, mat- ting rugs and Gibson prints, Irish lace and flufty frivolities look out of place; the popular recessed and mullioned windows of the artistic bedroom should be treated with a frilled top and straight hanging side draperies of flowered dimity to match the frilled mantel lambrequin and bed valance. Upholstered dimities copled from the old English dimities are the appropriate bed- room draperies this spring. They are very flowery and launder nicely. WOMAN ESCORTS WOMAN NOW. ian No Longer m Necessity for an ning's Outing. In the honorable role of escort to woman, man s no longer a necessity. An Inter- esting phenomenon, in fact, Is the com- The | first, then increasing courage and determi- A MILK BLUE ORGANDY. Gradually, and somewhat fearfully at nation, women of every age and condition of life, young and old, fashionable and ob- scure, fell into line to sweep out of the way a custom which deprived many a one of every chance of recreation after dark and |to put in its place another custom destined to bring about exactly opposite results. Fortune favors the brave. A most no- ticeable result of this declaration of inde- pendence on the male-escort question is the numerous companies of women minus the ghost of a man who nightly are in evi- dence at almost every place of amusement in New York Clty. Another result is the matter-of-course way in which women now £0 Into the streets alone at any hour of the | night. It has come to pass, indeed. that if | any member of the family stays at home of | an evening in company with the droplight and the cat it is not the woman. ‘ None, it seems, rejoices more over | woman's emancipation from imprisonment at home after dark than the proprietors of places of amusement. At the opera, as | everyone knows, women predominate in the CORRECT DRAPERY FOR placency with which woman, particularly in New York City, eleminates man from her evening program. Once upon a time, and not very long ago, either, comments the New York Sun, a woman of good soclal position who was without a man to escort her about resigned herself to remain Indoors at night, no matter how alluring the attractions abroad might be, but that time has evidently gone by, and with it the importance of man in his role of escort. Although it is quite true that, generally speaking, the latter-day woman appreciates as much as ever man's escort when she can get it, it is equally certain that she no longer mopes over any lack of gallantry on his part, nor does she because of It re- sign’ herself meekly to loneliness and iso- lation. Not she. The latter-day woman is resourceful, con- ecquently man’s place as escort-in-chief to the weaker sex has beeh usurped. Today woman’'s most dependable escort is woman. In other words, women have joined forces and created a new fashion, that of going about together at night unattended by man, HOQUSE DRAWING ROOM WINDOWS. A COTTAGE WINDOW. | audience at night as well as at the mati- nees. There are always rows of them downstairs as well as rows more upstaire, all of whom are quite independent of male chaperonage, and their presence invariably means larger box office receipts. ¥ » of Fashion. An attractive pair of stockings In black siik are openwork all over, the openings more than twice as large as the head of a large, common pin ‘here is a certain style about these. No longer do we sce an extravagant dis- play of nins and combs in the hair. The most fashionable s s of colffure do not admit of profusion in this direction—and to cover the ears with waves of hair is no longer correct. Linen batiste in natural color, spotted with black velvet woven in, {8 one of the novelties in materials, and still another is a new elling with a stripe, all in one color, which gives the appearance of a cord, and yet is not one. Sy al costumes for the automobile are one of the questions which fashion has under consideration. Just at present the three-quarter length coat is in favor, made with sleeves held closely together at the the neck, with a reversible collar A new sallor hat shows a brim turned slightly up all around—a pretty improve- ment on the old style. Other novelties in the hat kingdom reveal hats made of grass lawn sewn with lines of black straw and trimmed with bunches of green leaves Some of the flower embroidered hoslery has the work raised and the blossoms are most _skilifully d On one black silk stocking a paitern of llies of the valley s embroidered upon the instep with small sprays in green and white. Other flowers are also in the natural colors. There are also hand painted cards, plain white, a simple flower in the corner this varled indefinitely, and ail dinner or luncheon may have the same posy or a different one for every guest. All sorts of college and national flags figure upon these little cards. A blouse suit with the same style of trousers is of a gray plaid and there is a silk_belt to match with a simple serpent for a buckle at the front. This sult has a slit pocket on the left side of the blouse and is finished at the neck with a turnover white linen collar and a soft black silk scarf tled in a large bow Medalllons of white muslin, embroidered with silk in colors to match, are inset in silk blouses. Pretty blouses, too, are made of white liberty gauze, thin silk or chiffon, tucked In groups, each one of which is joined to the other with a narrow gauze ribbon embroldered with whit , set on with a dainty open stitch. Alternate rows of this form the entire bodice, with lace set in for a narrow yoke. A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOY POREVER T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL | CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER. Removes Tan, Pimplea 4.9 Frockics, Moth Paiches. | g#5s ah and Bkin dis M | | ‘gég | {E8a Ekz} Pidre harmiess we taste it to be sure ' is properly made, na Dr. L A Sayre sald to & Ja- | dy of the haut-tom | (s patient): | | “As you ladies will use them, 1 recom- mend ‘GOURA UD'S CREAM ub the ieast Sarmeul of il the Skin prepurations. For salo by ‘all 4" Fancy Goods It Will Come Back! Your back may not ache very long, But the ache will return again. Comes oftener—~stays longer— Unless the kidneys are relieved. The aching back tells of kidney ills. There is a cure for it, DOAN’S KIDNEY PILLS, A specific for sick kidneys, A remedy for bad backs, A cure for urinary disorders. Omaha testimony to prove it, Mr. Thos. F. Norton, No. 2714 Twenty-fifth street, contractor, says: “For three years my wife was not only subject to kidney complaint, but she had other complications. She doctored for her trouble, but the pain in her back and other symptoms of either weakened or over-excited kidneys clung to her. One box of Doan's Kidney Pills, procured at Kuhn & Co's drug store, corner 15th and Douglas streets, did her so much good that I purchased two more. The treatment did her a world of good." At All Drug Stores —50 Cents—FOSTER-MILBURN CO., Buffalo, N. Y. S — Crowded— The Diamond “C” Premium store is crowded and every day. all day Never since it was placed on the market, has the de- mand for i Dic C” Soap been so great as at present. Attracted by the “two for one” wrapper proposition, in effect all this month, hundreds of Omaha housewives, who have hitherto remained loyal to other laundry soaps, are now using Diamond “C.” A full line of premiums is on exhibition at the new premium store. Drop in and see them. The Cudahy Packing Company, New Premium Store, 304 So, I6th Street. l Beiegs i oo B S5 g™ ¢ W Great Jones Bt N. X. Tor the cure of all ailments peculiar to old folks, SWANSON'S “5-DROPS” js the best remedy that can be used. It is both an internal and external remedy, It contains no opiates or any injurious drugs of any kind, but is a carefully prepared combination of such herbs and oils as nature intended should be used in the cure of diseases of the nerves, muscles d blood. Absolutely pure and harmless. Aches ans Pains. In all cases of bodily aches and pains an application of - " to the afflicted parts will give instant relief. It will & stop those awful backaches, re- /[ f move inflammation from r‘ bruised and swollen parts, cure 7 'w i e g e Oid Peaople Nerveus and Neuralgic Head- aches, It is without excep- tion the greatest pain killer ever discovered. Impure Blood. Diseased or impure blood is the cause of more sickness than anythingelse. When the blood is impure, the whole system is deranged, everything goes wrong. The poisons settle in the muscles and joints, causing the most bago, Sciatica, Neuralgia, etc. blood of all the debilitated. inful diseases, such as Rheumatism, Lum= A dose of “6-DROPS" taken twice a day will cleanse the isonous matter and give strength and health to the weak and “5-DROPS" Is a perfect blood purifier. Rheumatism and Neuralgia. Swanson’s *‘5-DROPS"’ is a never failing cure for these discases. It is an internal and external remedy, which acts quickly, safely and surely, and is an absolute care for Rheumatism and Neuralgia, “5-DROPS” taken internally will dissolve the poisonous acid, remove it from the system and cleanse the blood of all impurities, thereby effecting a permgnent cure, An application of “5-DR0P$'' to the afflicted parts will stop the pains almost instantly, while the cause of the disease is being surely re- moved by its int use. Aches, pains and soreness disappear as if by magic when “5-DR0PS'" is used. o other remedy in the world will stop rheumatic or neuralgic pains so quickly or effect a cure as soon as “6-DR0PS." Widney Trouble and Liver comlalnlnt. You, who are wllerlnslmm Liver Complaint or Kidney Trouble, will find a positive cure in *‘5-DROPS."" It is the most effectual remedy ever discov- ered for these diseases. A single dose will give immediate results, the spot. It keeps the liver-cells properly at work. It restores the kidneys to their normal condition by removing the acids which are the cause of the trouble. It is the most successful medicine for the cure of diseases of the Blood, Kidneys and Liver that has ever been produ “5-DROPS’’ IS AN INFALLIBLE CURE FOR I S, 2 Sy s, Sogs Sormait: (oo ness, .uu”.l-, o igestion, Groum, Nervous an Neuralgio It goes direct to Dyspepsia, I Hea alaria, Hoart Waal Sloopicssncss and B Diseases. NOTlcE “5-DROPS’" is perfectly @ barmless and can be taken by a child as well asan adult, It cootains no opiate in any form. No aloohol. No salicylates. 1f “5-DROPS" is not obtainable in your locality order direct from us and we will sead it prepaid on receipt of price, $1.00 per bottle. sE"T FRE A trial bottle will be mailed free of charge to every RO! matie ¢ ol s e of id. # reader of this paper upon request. Cut out the cou »on and send to us with your name and address, Write today e Size Bottle (300 Doses $1.00.) For Sale By Drugsiets. Druggist for the “SWANSON PILL." & sure cure for Constipation, PRICE 25 CTS. 3 fiififll RHEUMATIC CURE CO., 160 LAKE STREET, CHICAGO. -y NEW CHICHESTER'S ENGLISH ENRVEGYAL FiuLs Ci :I-I.‘I #flm SAVE. Liv T o1 CH AT in MED sad Gel. esied Bt S g b B A s 5 SRVEATRTICY 3