Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, October 21, 1900, Page 22

THE ALL-CONQUERING COLLAR, Schedule of Colors to Be Followed 1n St Neek Dands. NEW YORK, Oct. 19.—However simply one's eutumn gown may be made there rests a sort of moral responsibility to give the collar at once a decorative and original appearance. Of course, as this is the autumn when dark ffs are to the tore, the sensible dressmaker dashes in an trrelevant but wholly coquettish bit of color at the neckband. Turquoise, old rose ! AND YOUNG GIRL TARTAR SUIT FOR A and certain pastel tints are the only tones o be avoided, for the well-dressed woman prefers something at once wapmer than the pastel tints and more original than blue or pink Out of respect to these sentiments the makers of beautiful clothes have evolved & sort of schedule of color arrangements tor collars and with a brown gown a green neckband is considered the most tastetul combination, with & blue gown the dom- inant tone near the face should be Bur- gundy red and with a red gown black and white and & touch of gold is the prefer- ence. Just what form the neckband should ke is not far mor dificult to discover, for a broad, straight band is universally preferred to any of the eccentric shaped collars within which devoted womankind suffered and was sllent. But, after all, the true charm of a ueckband depends on 1ts decoration and none but a pessimest could fall to approve with at least five out of the seven charming designs for collars glven in the sketched group of noveltles from a shop famous for these pretty trifles Collar number one, counting feft side of the picture, is of h lace, na from the y ecru ned, out of deference to the re- cent International trouble in the east, point de Chine, or Chinese point. It is a lovely, heavy, deep cream web, woven wholly of silk with the tiniest and most placable looking dragons worked on the lace In gold. Stout white milliners' wire holds the lace firm about the throat and through the mesh s run a narrow black satin ribbon, shot with gold and fasten- 1ng at the base of the collar with & wee gold: buckle. Number twogin the group is a white sllk stock with a soft, dull blue crepe de Chine tle knotted about it, while below this ap- pears one of the prettiest collars of the group. It is made very simply of pale baby blue Liberty satin ribbon speckled, with sllver dots and over the upper edge of the ribbon folds a narrow band of gray, bandmade Russian lace. The other col- Inrs tell thelr storles for (hemselves, but 1t remains to be said on this subject that the dressmakers supply every gown sent from thelr rooms this winter with at least threo changes of collars, for it s their be- et that by the appearance from time to time of fresh throat decorations the whole character of a gown Is changed Novelty Winter Goods, A faithful chronicler of the fashions would have a pleasant duty unfulfilled mot to chrouiclo some of the novelty goods on the busiest counters In the shops. There 13 wool poplin, for instance, and crepoline Just over from England and Lyons cords from France and some Irish corduroy that is well worth discussing at length. This Is not corduroy as we have Ritherto known and worn it, but a soft, ALWAYS BRINGS BACK YOUTH | coicr, life and beauty to gray, white o. leahed' hair. — Produces & new, thick Erowin on bald heads and lmmediately arrests the fu. i out of danaruft and (tehing s TAIN SKIN OR T E‘l‘ althrut halr thi; arw ik o Mot &0 n... dressing for men and women ke It or just as good. Unequaled halr grower. Large Bot, 50" A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER R. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL AM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER. Removes Tan, Pim) P tent and e harmicss we taste 1t to be sure I 1 properly made. (& patient): A8 you lalles will use ihem, I fecom. ondh“(‘l():'ll“A:;lD'l!kCME"m' a‘T lhq least of a o A &:. o wipihe Sl preparations’ e in the A irepe. BRD. T, HOPKINS, Prop's, o Great Jq SN X e . e — e faded leat groen and chestnut brown woolen gouds haviog @ surface like a French though unlike all serges in that at s of an eighth of an inch a green or brown velvet cord Is raised on the wool ground werk, Very evidently the Irish corduroy is having no difficulty in plac- ing Itselt among the most favored goods of this season A crepoline possibility is shown in the reproduction of a serviceabls little street sult in prune color. Very simply the skirt, bolero frouts, collar and ciiits are relieved by a treatment in bralds of two tones, which, by the way, 1s a favorite trimming. A flat and rather wide white silk braid is laid on first and upon the edges of this narrow black brald is run, resulting in a simple but none the less brilliant orna- mentation. About the bust and shoulders of this practical little suit a scart of black silk Manchurfan crepe is draped and drawn in front through a charming gun metal buckle, in which small amethysts are sunk. Conts for School Girls, The slender American girl of 15 or there- abouts, though buried to all soclal pur- poses in the school room, is yet the mis- tress of certain very clearly defined fash- fons. She has discovered a marked liking for the wasteless coat with Raglan shoul- ders and pockets set in strange, unorthodox places and in giving these garments her cachet sho 18, in A great measure, respon- sibla for their partial revival this season Behold, for example, in what specles of box coat the belle of the future takes the air. Her skirt is a plain affair of brown cloth Kkilted to the knoes after the mode of that skirt used for shooting and fishing. Tho coat slipped over the flannel shirt- walst 13 of brown Irish frieze. It is purl- tanically stitched and, though its lines aro not those of beauty nor its mission evi- dently to suggest grace, it possesses the exceeding feature of being as conveniont as a capo but twice as warm and abso- lutely waterproof. The slanting pockets cut in the breast are to hold and warm the bands on frigid days and the hat that ac- companies this useful winter walking cos- tume {s @& stitched brown felt of elghteenth century military shape and re- lieved by a tuft of brown satin ribbon at ono side. Hardly less sovere in line, but equally smart, Is the companion figure to the brown ideal of comfort. The darkest blue Pentland serge forms the body of the coat and skirt, which are boldly relieved by gay facings and bindings of the bright royal Stuart tartan. This {s daring, but sweet sixteen does appear to advantage In these square cut clothes that are topped off by & round red felt having a crown scart of dark blue siik, drawn in front through & cairngorn buckle, Quickslilver silk and Mudeira embroldory are two conepleuous features of dress at this moment. The former is so named because of the remarkable glitter of its finish, @ glitter that s more intense than that of a satin surface and which only ap- pears In the golds of the silk, not upon the flat surface. Goigeous evening silks wat- ered n large and small rings is a novelty, but newer and richer in appearance arc A WAISTENS COAT FOR SCHOOL WEAR. the heavy black and white silks that are watered in designs ot flowers. Flowers in siugle huge blossoms, boquets or garlands und showing far more effectively than when embroidersd or damasked. Over all these the Madeira embroidery casts It delicate design In panels and bande. It 18 & silk embroidery done on silk. All the unworked materlal is cut away wher the pattern is completed and the result effected is very much that of a heavy, gorgeously colored lace. MARY DEAN. FOR MUTUAL PROTECTIO Bay State ¥ Foll Unprincipled Men. “Oh, for a man! any kind of & mas not the heart cry of all young women, r ports the Boston Herald. There are some of the sex who much as they desire.to “set- tle down in life,” have too much good sense o Jump at the first man who offers himself in marriage, {rrespective of his moral cha acter or financial standing. a city girls of Plymouth, Mass., who have or- ganized themselves Into a soclety for mu- tual protection aguinst worthless members of the opposite sex. The organization was prompted by an in- cldent that occurred last summmer. A young man summering at Plymouth became en- gaged to one of the pretty Puritans there and their marriage was thought to be one of the future's surest promises. But to the utter wmazement and great shock of the xo0od townspeople, a dark beauty turned up one day, elaimed the prospective bridegroom s ber husband and took him away with her. The shocked young woman who had thought herself soon to be married collapse at the revelation and was very il for & long time. She had friends tn town and about the countryside, and some of them, remem- bering for their part the evanescent cha acter of the woolng of summer men, quietly banded together for mutual protection. No member will tell who another member 1s; no one will hardly admit that she 1s a member, but still the soclety does exist and no one can say how many have been the utihappy marriages which it has prevented. To be a member of the soclety one must be between 17 and 30 years of age. It Is durlog this period ot life, say the young ladies, that one fs most apt to be sought by swains, sincers or otherwise, and so needs protection. Meetings are held at stated intervals, or a member can call a epeclal mecting if she wishes that the oth- ers may consider some especial and press- ing case. The first president of the society, elected last October, and who will hold office for a year, Is Miss Jeanette B. Corley. The vice president and the young woman who will, says Miss Corley, be made president next, is Miss Alice Plorce. Under Miss Corley's leadership the assoclation has grown to a strength of nearly balf a hundred, and it 1s sald that almost every young woman who has been approached and asked to join has done #o The method of looking into tho character of a young man 18 simple. The soclety holds one of its stated mectings and each young woman who has a swain of whom she s at all doubtful gives his name and as many particulars as she deems desirable to the club. All 18 held in strict secrecy. A com- mittee {5 appolnted from among those pres- ent, and then there commences an investi- gation. Woe to the young man who has been engaged and broken it oft without very good cause, to him who runs off fo Doston--to “the city,” as they call it—and puts poison into his mouth to steal away his brains, or to him who Is mixed up any matrimcenial entanglement, Qulotly irquiries are made and when by halt a dozen curious young women there are not many stones left unturned, one may be sure. Then at the mext meeting the young women come together with their judgments formed. That no one may know Just who does the blackballing, should any be nececsary, ballots are dropped into a hat, as at any club; and read by the president. While the committce works together s a whole, still individual members may find something alone, and it is on the result of theso findings that the young map's chances rect “Drinks and swear two girls at once’’ “Has been divorced,” “Has no money,” and “A saloon loafer,” are some of the wordings of the little cards which are tcssed into the box. Was engaged to A Run on Buttons. Some fine large buttons sh of-pearl base with flat designs in overlaid and a rim of the metal lMttle fancy buttons, tome In are to fasten shirtwalsts of Sometimes one or two of the fine little are used to finish a where an elaborate stock is not worn. buttons are er, each nough to w a_mother. slver Protty colors, , and pretty nE rpin. There are buttons in stmilar with the rhinestones in place of the and they are equally attragtive. One does not say nowadays, “How many buttons do 1 need?” and “How much wiil they cost?’ hut “Shall I need one or two and what will they cost each?' They are wure to be n dollar and upward, and they scintillate like diamonds. There are gold buttons of many Kinds,< some large, round and full, with military pearls, designs _upon them, while others have heads. The buttons with a head of some kind upon them come in many designs. In some of these there 1s a head In gold upon a colored foundation, dark blue, perhaps, With o gold edge. These are exactly like some of the belt buckles, only smaller. There Is a pretty Wttle silk button, which Aoes mot belong to the jewel caske which 1= seen on some wilsts, white silk button. A flannel which has a stitched box plait in row of these little buttons down e * and three more fasten the cuff, Into h tho sleeve gathers full at the wrist “In looking over a trunk full of old truck the other day.” sald the middle-aged man, “1 came across a lot of old shirts with the buttons gewed an, and as 1 looked at them | realized anew what the collar button means to humanity. There have been greater in- ventions, surely, hut not many t have conferred @ more unmixed blessing on mankind. Vounger person of tod accustomed to the collar button aiwa cannot realizo what it was to be without it. He can never know what it was to have shirts with the buttons sewed on—or not, as the case might be. Not S0 many years ago, when the collar button was compara- tively new, before persons had come to keep, as everybody comonly does now, a fot of buttons on hand, the man who had lost his collar button thought himself en- titled to the sympathy of his fellows, but wrung as he might be by that loss he could not even guesw at the anguish that in the sowed-on button days filled the heart of the man who, when he came to put on his last clean shirt, found that key button, the one on the all, ollarband, most important one of entirely or only just hanging by ! I knew a man once who had this to him and didn’t swear. That was nly great thing he ever did; but 1 have always thought that that alone was enough to stamp him as a most extra- ordinary man.” gon Frills of Fashion Panne velvet spotted with gold is very at- tractive. French knots are as commonly used for dress decoration as they were last spring. Black fox showing & few white hairs s fovorted us one of the favorito turs for s, Bands of lace Insertion, tucked bands of gray slik, walsts. Red velvet applique designs embroidered with gold are the decoration on the bolero of a white taffeta silk walst. Qreclan satin, a new wool material for evening wraps and tea gow has a tiny diagonal stripe on the surface. alternated with form effective A uncommonly pretty boa’is trimmed with narrow gold braid, one of the prettiest ways in which the brald is seen. The boa part 18 made of gray chiffon leaves, each edged with the braid. The ends fall straight The soft, glosey silk called fleur de sole, uncommonly durable for silk, closely woven, lght In welght, and delightful to the touch, is much used for t 1 and shirred fancy walsts, danct and dress trim- mings of various kinds. A rough material called frieze, mubdued by a surface of white hair, seems to be one of the smart materials for winter. Theme Tough fabrics are usually trimmed iiberally with bands of silk or katin covered wit rows of stitehing, or with some of the fancy bralds, Tailor gowns of black-faced cloth, with bright-colored cloth boleros, braided so closely with black that the color hack of the arabesques in soutache is only just visible, are very popular this season, wnd A PRINCE STRERT DRI COLORED CREPOLINE plain_ collar | BEE: SUNDAY, OCTOBER U B, g B s AL R il ) Overwrought Nerves. As soon as a woman’s nerves become excited by some, feminine disorder, she loses control of her speech. She has no patience with anybody or anything. The ones sho loves the best are the ones to whom she talks the meanest. Trifles light as air drive her almost frantic. She is worse than crazy, because she knows what she is doing and can’t help it. She doesn’t have hysteria and doesn’t have fainting » i8 nervous, horribly nervous. Does she get sympathy i Oh, yes, she gets sympathy for awhile, but she acts so outrageously that everybedy keeps out of her way as possible. After a while they begin to think she’s malicious and could do better if ghe tried real hard. She has turned her best friends against her. This woman is sick with about the most discouraging sickness wemen can have, and there is a person who understands her case better than any one else in the world. That person is Mrs. Pinkham. The nervousness comes from some derangement of the feminine organs, and is constantly fed and made worse by the constantly developing disease.. Female diseases never get better of themselves, They must have proper treatment. Ordinary physicians do not know how to grup&\lu with these dis- eases of women. Out of the hundreds of thousands of women Mrs. Pinkham has cured, not one in five hundred tried her advice or her medicine until they had exhausted the skill of their own physician, sometimes of several physicians. Mrs. Pinkhant’s address is Lynn, Mass. prompt and free to all suffering women. { You may not know that your nervousness comes from i female troubles. Your doctor may not know it. He may tell you it dees net ; but dees he cure you? Does he help you any i Mrs. Pinkham will tell yon the truth about ourself, and you'll believe her. Don’t throw your life’s happiness away and make yourself unlovable, when a little diligent heed to Mrs. Pinkham's advice will drive away your nervousness by removing the cause of your treubls, Read carefully the letters from women Mrs, Pinkham has helped. After thirty years of success in curing women’s ills, can you not believe it worth while to test the virtues of Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound ? Her advice is Ted 1a one of the favored shades used for | petticoat in taffeta fn rs 1 the jacket suFmounted above U hem There are at least apologles for pockets [ With a tlounce of Ru Ares. for the women this fall. A bright red shirt. [ Theso are cut out i alst with the golf coat combination of the collar hae also a green pocket eant. It be only to bring in a of ‘the green, but ft would not 0. for another waist hus two litls | breast pockets, one on either side, of black | & . an velvot. 1 colors 18 very striking on There 18 a new needle In the mar The and red skirts. women who have sewed thro en- | = turies think this needles it s - true. The new needle, whieh is sald to be | Talk A peineltfic. has the end containing the eve| Mre Guge, wi thin and flat so that wh the | treasury, hay needle is no larger at that The result | return to Washington, but wis is that thefe 1s no friction when th le | for @ short drive on Wednesday is pulled through the cloth, It sounds | first time in two &eeks sensible A Mrs. Goetschius of Balt Lake City, who One of the latest varieties of the ailk | is visiting in the east, suld in & recent inter- to any person who can show that the above testim: writers' special permission.—LyDia E. PINKHAM MEDICIN g Heartfe!* Stories from Cured Woimen. “DrAR Mns. PixgrAn :—I feel it my duty to write and tell you of the benefit I have received from your wonderful remedies. Jefore taking your Vegetable Compound I was a misery to myself and every one around me. I never laid my aching i upon my pillow without wishing I could die. ‘I suffered terrible pain in my back, head, and right side, was very nervous, would cry for hours, would appe: ometimes in two and four months, s0 tired and weal, could not sleep nights, arp pains would dart through my heart that would aimost cause me to fall. I was so poor and white that my folks thought I was going to die. My mother xed me to try Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound. I had no faith in it, but to please her I did so. e first bottle helped me so much that I eon- weeks, then again not for thr 1w B TR W b PASSMINIFRED ALLENDER 3| tinued its use. I am now well and weigh mor “Your remedies deserve the hig! LENDER, Farmington, 111 than I ever did in my life, “DeAR Mns, PiNgnAM:~It gives me great pleasure to tell you how much your Vegctuble Compound has done for me, I had becn a suf- ferer for years with female trouble. I could neither read nor sew but a few minutes at a time ribly with my head. My s also troubled me all the time, was advised by a friend to take Lydia E. Pinkbam's Vegetable Compound, I had mo faith in it, but decided to try it. After usicg one bottle I felt so much better that I con- tinued its use, and by the time 1 had taken six bottles I was cured. There is no other medicine forme. Irecommend it toall my friends."—Mas. SArAu SwopER, 103 West St., La Porte, Ind. FaRS SARAH 5SWODER ‘' Dear Mrs. PINKHAM :—I am very grateful to you for your kindness and the interest you have taken in me, and truly believe your medicines and advice are worth more to a womun than all the doctors in the wo For years [ had female troubles and did nothing for them, Of cou - becawme no better and finully bry own. catir My troubles began with inflummation and hemol rhages from the kiducys, then intlammation, col gestion and falling of the womb, aud inflammation of ovaries. I uuderwent local treatment every day for some time; then after ne twomonths the doctor gave me permission to wels to work, I went back, but in less than a week was coms pelled to give wl go to bed. On breaking down the , 1 decided to let doctors and their medicine alone and try your remedies. Before the first bottle was gone It the effects of it. Three » Compound and a package of the Sanative Wash did me more good than all the doctors’ treatments and medicine, The first remark that greets me now when I go to any place is, ‘How much better you look,' und you may be never hesitate to tell the cause of my health. pounds during the last two mouths and am b | for your kind attention and advice."—Mgs. E. J. Goobkx, Ackley, lowa. ng to the fact that some sl f the testi ed with the N ptical people bave from time to time questioned tters wo constantly publishing, we have 5,000, which will be paid ished before obtaining the dope Y @ not genuine, or were pu Co., Lynn, Mass. view that she was & stanch republican and |, 1d In thank- | ever bad bolted tr et, but that it her | e’} (et he talked b cured th nomir a8 eloguently about “the hand that rocks " tied to vote | i s if that same hand dif n ined ciost u bullot. The Utah women have voted f the New Yol t twenty years and there 1y rather Kers' unton proportion of cradles there than in + a4 to who other states 10 best ples. It may be apropos In | Mgy lonla Ivan Roe, nged 24 years, daugh- this connection ter of C. C. R wealthy buffalo man, i wernment examination “invading’’ o 10 belong exc lee Twedle, t sturned 'to n vl m a wmall \ ense and passed Ehe 1 woman wnd Virginia, country this i a wonderful h lar to | ing tour all and a determined face H oarly ol en_ sixteen ways dresses in black and we & White | and has serve sols-the yachts ot elephone, Fast Mall and Mystery—owned | "When Gevernor Roosevelt was in Utah he | by her father, \ .(