Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, February 10, 1895, Page 19

WHEN HEARTS ARE TRUMPS Feots nd Fanoies Woven Around 8t Valentine's Day. POPULAR AMONG A [USY PEOPLE New and Novel Innovations In Valentines, Pructical as Well as Sentimental— suggestions Regarding At tractive Trifles. Americans are a practical, busy people, but Bt. Valentine has managed to retain his hold on thelr hearts. Valentines are as pop- ular as ever, and dealers and manufacturers declare that the making of valentines has fiever been such a recognized industry as it | 18 today. We are not limited to the old-fash- foned lace valentine, such as your grand- mother can show you in its embossed yel- low envelope, although you may buy exactly euch a one, for the call for this style never seems to grow less, . When one pauses to think for a moment of the origin of St. Valentine's day—that an- sually recurring season of sentimental ob- * servances which have been so fondly cher- fshed through many centuries by callow youths and also by those of maturer years— the question naturally arises, what manner of man cven was this same plous individual whom the church thought worthy of canon- dzation? Surely he“must have been gullty of ocea- sional lapses from the contemplation of things celestial, clse his name would never have come to be identified with the lover's holl- day. As a matter of fact, the character of the good saint Is deeply wronged by such a dis- tinetly secular reflection, and Christendom has plainly acted in a most unwarrantable ard presumptuous manner in devoting the so- called day of St. Valentine to the exchange of love tokens and the plighting of tender Vows. On_reference to history, we s'mply learn that Valentinus, bishop, or, more preperly, presbyter of the third century, was cast into the Mamertine prison by the Emperor Claud- T A THEATER COSTUME. fus for too zealous proselyting; that while 60 confined he cured the jailer's daughter of blindness, thereby convert'ng both the maiden and her fathér to Christianity, and that finally he was haled to death, being first beaten With clubs, and then beheaded in the Forum. And yet, notwithstanding this unvarnished tale, the poets, while always assumin the ‘“‘feathered songsters of the air” mainly responsible for the annual outbreak of eentiment at the approach of spring, also are wont to Imply, with unbounded license, that poor St. Valentine so evidently approved ot the birds’ amatory example in his time that ho actually entered into some scrt of a se- cret compact with them for. the bemefit of hu- manity ever after. Old John Donne, for instance, the poet divine of the seventeenth century, thus ir- C3vently apostrophizes the saint: ail Bishop Valentine! whose B AT thio wir ie' thy divcegeroe 98y this is; And all the chirping choristers And cther birds are thy parishioners. Likew:se graceful Elia, who ought to have known better, utters this rhapsody: Hall to thy returning festival, old Bishop Valentine. Great is thy name in the rubric, thou yenerable archbishop of Hymen! Im- mortal go-between, who and what manner of erson art thou? * * * Thou comest at- endeds with thousands and tens of thousands of little loves, and the air is “Brush'd with the hiss of rustling wings.” Singing cuplds are thy choristers and precentors, and in- stead of the crozier the mystical arrow Is borne before thee. Wheatley, in his “Illustrations to Common hed in 1648, coolly observes Valentine was so famous for his love and charity that the custom of choosing valentines took its rise from them.” It Is needless to mention, perhaps, that the ex- planation is quite unsatisfactory. Love and charity are not uncommonly attributed to all reputable saints during their earthly careers, VALENTINE NOVELTIES. ‘A bran new and appropriate innovation for Valentine day is to be the exchange of photographs among friends. As always, the fashion originated in the minds of a leading coterle of soclety girls, and the leading pho- tographers say that aiready there is a phe- nomenally large placing of orders for hand- some plotographs. These will be sent out in place of Valeutine cards, and will arrive in the morning mail or by messenger, with a Valentino message written across one corner. ‘An autograph on tho face being de riguer. An expensive addition of this photographic method of ob:erving the day Is the rage for minjatures. One cannot glve an exquisite minlaturo of one's self to any but one's near- est and dearest, but artists and jewelers say they have numerous orders for minlatures to be finished before Valentine day, They are framing minlatures mainly either in gold wreaths of exquisite workmanship, or in a auccession of small dlamonds or pearls. ‘The demand for valentine gifts—which ca be gauged accurately only by special order there belng little way of tracing the use to Which ready made goods are put—is not large, the custom of oxchanging glfts on that day not being very general. But such call as Lhcra is thus far is largely for small Dleces bf jewelry. The Brownie eraze Is dying out, and the next thing on the docket Wwill be miniature coples of all the gelfing fmplements. Thus far these are not In stock and must be made to order. The daintiest jewelled trifles for valentines are tiny laurcl wreaths (which have supplanted the bow knot so popular for the last two u-uuu: and :l{lll»u of wln:u. that for the season in question are ascribed to Cupid in- Btead of Mercury. Rl Js For the new photographic valentine a frame Is o matter of course. Silver leads for medium priced frames. Ivory Is the . thing if money Is no object, and a very deli- cate and charming frame Is of cobweb-like Mnen, cmbroidered with true lovers' knots and cuplds playing pranks with wreaths of flowers done in the natural tints of wash silks. The embroidery is marvelously fine and tho fraup, while as delicate as lace, cleansed without fadin, the ploture lasts. W lag g ther valentine novelty this year will be eral betrothal amoouncements. This 48 & pretty concelt, and if lovers can conceal thelr devotion for a week or two, or & few days, fn_order to announce the choosing of . their mafe on Oupid's day, the day may eome 10 be locked upon as sacred to that rite. ‘The wost fashionuble of the Fifth avenue caterers Jos ] order o @ | bstrothal 0 be given on Valentine's . at mv s golng to serve the loudl.fl, thy form of cupids and doves. The doilies for the fnger bowls will be the flance's gifts to sts, it being o fad to make a col- ‘of thise uselcss and elogant vanities, are THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 10, ‘1895 PEARLS OF DEW. (CAPRICE BRILLANTE. v Allegrs moderatn. EDUARD HOLST. Copyright, 1894, by The New York Musical Record Co. T Pearls of Dow.—2. valentine cuplds encircled, if you please, in Valenclennes lace. The lace is the real thing and each doily Is worth the larger part of a $10 bill. The cards bearing the guest's names will be pink-tinted rose petals, as natural as na- ture, with the names etched upon them in gold. CHEAP VALENTINES. A sheet of rough water-color paper will prove the most useful foundation upon which to build, For the first style, cut two cards from this sheet, each two and three-fourths by four inches in size. Upon each of these, near one end, outline a butterfly in different positions. These you can trace 'from pic- tures which will be easily found, if you are not acucstomed to drawing. Now with a small brush, color these with water-colors, perhaps one yellow, the other light brown. Add a few dots and dashes of deeper color and paint the body brown. If you have some gilding, add a few dots of that to the wings, and_print with it in 0dd letters, the words: “To My Valentine,” across from one card to the other. Finish by tying the two cards together with a narrow yellow ribbon, through hgles ‘eut ‘with button-hole scissors. The resultiwill be very satisfactory, If you have not tha:paiuts and have a set of Brownie stamps, a very funny little valen- tino may be made in the same manner as the one just describéd, by stamping two or threo of the Brownles in place of the butter- flles. Each corner of the cards may be gilded and the samo lettering used as upon tho other, or the lettering may be done with pen and ink. Red Inkis pretty for this purposo. i Another card five inches square, has the corners gilded and a Brownle stamped diagon- ally on the card, near each corner, While through the center run the words, In gilt let- tering, “With best wishes to my Valentine.” If the four corners are occupled by an artist, a musician, a policeman and a dude, no mat- ter—the recipient can count them upon her buttons after the manner of the ‘‘rich man, poor man, beggar man, thief,” and decide thereby which her future husband is to be. A card about four inches square is cut heart shape; the edge is gilded all around with ir- regular strokes and the surface within s covered with dots of the gilt. Then with gild- ing of different shades, as bronze or blue- groen, or with a pretty shade of water colors, the words, “Each dot means love for you,' are traced in fanciful lettering with a small brush, Two smaller hearts may be cut and tied together with ribbon, and the edges fin- ished like the larger heart, while lettering, stamps or outlines may be added. A pattern which may be familiar, is that of a shoe sole. A row of small dots near the edge Indicate the nalls, and the words, “I love you from the bottom of my sole,” are straggled over its surface. A plain card, or one cut in heart shape, which cannot fail to delight the reciplent if she have a spark of fun in her makeup, has two raisins glued, or better still, fastened to its surface with a few short stitches, and the words added, “I love you for two raisins.” Another means of decorating the valentines 18 by the use of the embossed pictures which children paste In scrap books. Cards cut from the water-colcr paper may have two small pictures pasted neatly on, in place of the butterflies, and then be tied together as directed. A heart shaped card may also havp a pretty picture, a head or a flower In its ‘center and the edge finished like the others described. A pretty quotation nicely written upon one of these rough surface cards, and a dainty bow of ribbon tied near one corner, makes a very pretty valentine, much prettier than could be purchased with no greater expense, The rough surface of this paper gives an artlstic finish to the simplest bit of work if carefuly done. The lace paper which comes upon tollet soap boxes, raizan boxes and confectionery— often large squares are used to cover the cardies in boxes—may be made to play an important part in the.valentine making. Strips of this lace paper may be made to finish the four sides of a card, and pictures, stamps or gilt lettering be added to the inner space; or- twe wide strips may be fastened to opposite sides, meeiing in the middle; these are to open back and show a pleture or lettering beneath. A square of the lace paper will serve to make a valentine quite equal o those in the stores. edge of the card In turned forward and t edge of the lace squire is passed over this and forms an upper leal A vel of butterflies may decorate the and perhaps an embossed picture be the lace front. Dalaty ol even prettior with thess than the SPRING SENLES. Skirts Wider—Sieaves Not Diminishad—M) folk duckets with Leather Trimuwing. NEW YORK, Feb. '-Pml.)—]‘w a fow wmodels bave burst prematurely trom the i cccoon of fashion, styles for spring gowns are still in a chrysalls stage. It will take just four weeks more, truthful couturieres admit, to bring the new crop of butterfiles to modish perfection; but even then, it seems quite safe to assume, the highest excellence of the coming season will not yet be born. It is not for the early bird Dame Fashion puts forth her best worms, but rather for her who, waiting until the season Is well on its feet, profits by all the mistakes her rushing sisters have made, and o achleves perfection. But, as our, dear, dead Stephenson has, writte; time. Instead of an admirable waiting instinct, a quick eye for a good thing may rather be desired; and among all the ‘'left-overs,” “renovateds” and wickedly ugly things that are heralding the coming month, two new spring costumes may be mentioned as things to look upon and not fear. The first, a strictly walking suit of black English serge, is made with a full flared skirt, and a short, cutaway coat. The shape of the skirt differs in no great degree from the winter model of the front gores and godet back. Insiead of the deadly “to be overwise is to ossify,” in half way down to the knee, beginning then to suddenly undulate until, about the feet, it falls in flounce-like fullness all round. The second, a walking affair of brown and white whip cord, has themovelty of having only three seams. The cloth'is very wide, one great piece compassing entirely front and sides. The back is cut after the godet prin-| ciple, but 1s in only two gores; they are caught underneath with elastics into four graceful folds, and grass-gloth is the inter- lining. This skirt formed part of the second cos- tumo already mentioned as a good thing that should be recognized on sight.] Its trimming, which took the shape of {wo yellow leather bands, was put on in a unique fashion, Nelther came any further than the limits of a widish gore, the top one being shorter than the lower, and each finished at the end with a smart leather buckle. This leather was repeated in the body, which was a French imitation of an English Norfolk jacket—and a ‘vast Improvement on the stiff original, of course, The Norfolk effects wer¢ made by slash- ing the whip cord to show straight leather bands sewed on the lining, and the collar and belt were also leather, neatly fastened se, ploture. lower L SLATIOL ONINdS ATHVH heavy haircloth, however, the interlining s of the lighter ‘grass cloth, a Paquin Wire brald giving the proper stand-off effect at the feet. The jacket, whose short bottom flares slightly over the hips and lles at the back in two Inturning pleats, is tight fitting. It opens over a trim, high-collared vest of blue and white pique, and the large sleeves are gigot-shaped and held in place at the top with shirring. This shirring, by the way, marks all the new tailor sleeve tops. The cutaway jacket, too, is offered as a rival for the longer coat, and a younger fancy for this than the ono described is to have the tail ripple slightly all round. The best tallor sleeves yet seen are, as heretofore, huge mutton-leg affairs, cut on the blas. They are not perceptibly stiffened, but are held gracefully out by a solid linen interlining, and often good effects are made by laying the lower inside seam in pleats. This brings much of the fullness from un- derneath, and it is balanced by a cluster of pleats at the upper inside seam, the two causing the sleeve to fall over the arm in heavy half-ring 'folds. Another becoming sleeve being adopted for new tallor gowns 18 made with a vast upper arm puff and a long cuff, that fits the forearm like a glove. The puff drops sharply from the shoulder, the outward bulge that now distingulshes ali modish sleeves coming only at the lower part. As to new wrinkles | rts, authorities differ on the all-important matter. A gentle- man famed for swagger English gowns vows that they are to be more stiffened than ever, mors wired in the bargaln, and that at the ck; the great cages will swell out from © walst, with a little tournure, effect. A dy with French leanings swears solemnly (that the English gentleman speaks with a forked tongue, chlmhl{‘lhll though the new skirts will be wider than ever before, their grace and dash will be a matter only of cut. She illustrates her sermon with two captivat- ing m One of black crepon, which material, we are informed, is to be more popular than ever, fits with blas smoothness over the hips and with buckles like those on the skirt. Two short, flared tabs hung like a tail from under the belt, covering only the hips, the back space being filled in by the skirt, which was uncommonly full at this point. Sleeves, large mutton-legs, with turn-over, pointed cuffs of leather. Together with the little Eton bodices that have long proved their economical worth, Norfolk jackets, or Norfolk effects, are quoted ws likely to flood the later spring market. When It comes to visiting toilets, or other very dress-up frocks, it is plain to be seen that extreme fullness is to be the order of the new day. Distinct contrasts in color ap- pear, too, {0 be an established principle. An adorable visiting toilet by Worth, that master of tone harmonies, is of golden brown crepon and moss greeh peau de Sole. The skirt, which s entirely of the crepon and untrimmed, i the full French circular shape. The bodice begins with a round yoke of golden brown velvet; oyer this hangs a blouse of green peau de sole, made trim at the back, with a light gathgriig and hanging in a bag front. The large sleeves are of the peau de sole, with crepon‘caps, and at the wrists, as well as about the 'round neck of the blouse, there s a richJewel embroidery in dull copper; belt and cofiaf of brown vel- vet on the blas, "NINA FITCH. ORNAMENTE, Modes of Draplng and Decorating Plano, Muntel Shelf and Teble. NEW YORK, Feb. 10.—Recently I asked Miss Lowis, a professional deeérator, how she arranging and orname tables, man- and more than all, (he pizno, that in- dispensable triangle of furnituse, 50 torment- ‘0§ 10 the artistically inclingd. Unless you place your plany with its back to the room, the case is hopeless,” she sald. “This position is not only. goed from a dec- orative standpeint, but a performer likes to be shielded by the instrument.’ Then eke enumerated various graceful ways to cover the polished bareness of this musical instru- ment. To hang a square of tapestry over the back from a brass rod is exceedingly striking. It possible, let the painted subject relate to inusic or sentiment, and have it sufficiently large to cover the surface of the piano. If the tapestry is very fine work, Its sur- faco should be unspoiled by additions. Across the top of the piano lay a scarf of Liberty silk or another painted panel. The only bric- a-brac that combines with this drapery is a pair of candelabras, the quainter in style the better. Algerian stripes, Bagdad tapestry or Per- sian prints make good backgrounds, Their cost 18 $1.26 a yard and width fifty inches. With this as a foundation, many schemes may be carried out. Bas relief heads in plaster can be swung on it without injuring the wood of the piano. Medallions of Bee- thoven, Mozart or Wagner can be purchased for $1 cach. A long panel of cherubs goes well, or a line of Delft or Japanese plates. A low settee has a comfortable resting place underneath this. Either a box seat up- holstered in dark, contrasting stuff, or one of the $4.60 green wooden settees, sold to artists, would serve. A number of cushions placed on the seat against the plano add to the coziness and grace of the decoration, I know a Fifth avenue house where the tea table s placed agninst the draped back of the plano, the polished old silver showing well against' the Persian colors. Chincse and Turkish skirts, heavily em- broidered, to he found at large dry goods shops, make most- artistic drapery. They are laid over the'tdp of the instrument and fall downward over the back. A curtain of dark velvet serving underneath as a back- ground over the back. A few fine eastern bits of chima or pottefy, 1t one possesses them, serve admirably as ornaments, but, in lieu of these, a bowl of roses and several small photos framed in gold or silver, is all that the age calls for. Whatever other color your room is made up in, put something rich and full of color on the black piano, excepting, of course, In an elaborate drawing room, upholstered in fairy colors. BEAUTIFYING THE MANTEL SHELF. A like system of draping is effective for the mantel wall. That is, for those who do not possess a large mirror, an artistic wall, or those abomipations—a mantel cabinet. Even with a mirror a background of rich- tored stripes or colonial silks is more than pretty, This curtain is hung without fulness from"the ceiling molding by hooks. Far down near the mantel place a mirror or a long bas relief of plaster, such as Dona- tello's cherubs, the Parthenon frieze, or any one of like {lk, whose price is not over $3. An oval mirror, with narrow black or gilt frame, sells for $18 or $20, but the most effective are those divided with gilt pilasters into three parts. These are imitated after mirrors of “ye olden time” by a deft-fin- gered cabinetmaker at small cost. Do not burden the mantel wall with orna- ments in pairs.. Have individual articles distantly placed, and you will be as artistic as the Japanese, In the land of the fan only one object of value is brought out at a time and placed for admiration in a niche. More would be artistic. sacrilege. If one does not care for the Perslan tones, a background can be supplied of figured bur- lap; put on as closely as wall paper it forms an excellent panel, A scarf of bright hued Liberty silk on the mantel board {s pretty, twisted in a heroic sallor's knot in the center, and the ends curving along the board. In the matter of ornaments, remember that Hoyal Worcester and other bowls and vases of China are no longer in use. A Bohemian bowl, a dozen exquisitely framed photographs, a pair of candelabra are in 8ood taste. The decorators object to even 80 many things. Severe simplicity should rule the shelf, they say; two good bits of bric-a-brac, at most, serving the purpos Some housewives are placing a divan under the mantel. If the air gets its heat from a register this plan serves, and the varied cushions heaped to the overhanging scarf lends color. It Is better taste, however, to display the fireplace, arranging it in decora- tive fashion. Small plaques let in for tiles make the best adornment. If these are too expensive, paint a serles of mottoes in old German or English script on a solld ba ground. Mrs. Thomson, who owns an glej t Madi- ole hiatery of son avenue home, has m-or the house that Jack bulit told on, white por- colain tiies imitated In biue letlers Fhis could be imitated by black letters on an old blue painted background, She also has some of Aesop's fables done In llke manner. It is a novel decoration, and one that Is sur- prisingly effective. the architecture of the mantel Is an abomination a board of quainter style can be found Lg investigation. ¥Yomen have picked up old colonfal affairs, and have had them substituted for the ungainly ones. The higher the shelf, the better the stylo, and if it is upheld by small colonial piliars the effect is perfect. DISPOSING OF THE TABLE. To happlly arrange a table is a high art. The nature of fts decoration depends upon its location. The one in library or sitting room can bear a heavy burden. A rich cloth and the reading lamp and books should cover it. But what must one do with the drawing room article? Obeying the decorators you would never put a cloth on it, but buy it of such excellent wood that its unpolished sur- face would be sufficient adornment. How- ever, it a very fine scarf or square needs showing off, the center table is a good place to display it. The rule against Worcester or any pottery holds good here, but a very BACK OF THE PIANO. large lamp is an ever happy inspiration. The huge Satsuma vases, with tankards, hold aloft the most expansive of fancy shades. A picture, and always a book and magazine, complete the decoration, 1t 1s good form to provide books for visitors to glance at, no matter how luxurious the room. A magazino and a rose add an afr of homelikeness to the plainest or the stiffest apartment, One more decorative point outside of furni- ture that I learned of Miss Lewis, All the walls are being hung with stuffs instead of paper. This statement was substantiated by the upholsterers. Colonfal armour silk for stately drawing rooms, French figured chintz for sleeping apartments and Burlaps or Agra linen for sitting room, parlor, dining room and library. It is quite the vogue to do s0, and not at all ex slve. DELE M'ALLISTER. Fashion Notes, A pew and attractive black materfal for spring wear is shown. It Is called crep- onette. Irish dimitles in Dresden designs are among the daintiest of the imported fabrics that can be laundered. Long-stemmed sprays of Parma violets are seen on hats of green velyet trimmed with sable fur and guipure lace. Belts to be worn with round walsts are folded to about two inches in width, nar- rower effects are even more popular, Some of the smartest skating costumea. worn this winter are made of plaided or shot velvet, trimmed with bands of seal or Alaska sable, Narrow stripes are very popular In silk and velvets, and fome' of the evening: silks are striped with many colors, such as:pink, bluo and mauve, Violets and purplish red roses are the flowers used on midwinter hats. Violets are never out of fashion, and just now they are particularly favored. Soft sllks are to be in favor for spring and summer wear, but just at present all the heavier varieties, such as brocades, stift satins and glace silks, are most worn, The new India silks are brocaded in small patterns, and plain silks woven so thin that they are almost like gauze are one of the novelt'es: which can be accordeon plaited as effectively as chiffon. Purplish red roses have velvet petals and are set in rows at the back and under the arched brim of picture hats of reseda green, brown or black velvet, the other garniture being full ostrich plumes. In bonnets French millinery is unusually smart. Vivid colors, gay ribbons, made Into aggressive bows and erect loops, gold lace, Persian galloons, spangles and Irish diamond ornaments alike tend to produce an effect the reverse of somber, Very few women who can afford it mow wear any but silk-lined gowns, The skirts hang so perfectly and are so light in welght, and bodices similarly lined fit better, and are infinitely more comfortable than those made on ordinary foundations. . Jackets of black satin to be worn during Lent are lavishly trimmed with jet and have vests of cream silk, overlald with fetted in. sertion, forming stripes. They have fur- edged shoulder capes, with a design of rich passementerle above the fur roll, The fashionable dress muff, shaped like an heur-glass, frilled on each end, affords very little protection to the wrists and hands, The center of the muff is drawn In tight and narrow, and there is much more of laca and ribbon ‘than of fur or velvet visiblo in these small “finger-tip coseys. Plain or beaded black tulle ruches make an effective and very fashionable triming for dinner toilets of crepon and of light satin or molre. These ruches have the softening eftect of feather bands, but are much less ex- pensive. The tulle is very thickly plaited or gathered, and very prodigally applied, New York has a Trilby. Miss Mila Rich mond, who fs studying music here with one of the city's high-class teachers, is sald to resemble in feature, form and volce Du Maurier's famcus heroine. She will sing soon at a private musicale, when a favered few will have an opportunity to judge of her claims to the distinction claimed for her. The wife of the late President Carnot shares her mother-in-law's distaste for publia fur ctions. For many years sho dreaded that something might happen to her husband, and when he left home on officlal journeys she seemed not at ease until his return. Mme, Carnot s slightly deaf, and for some time ber health has been faillng. One result of the deafness which troubles her is that she is somewhat silent and reserved in mixed coms pany. Sllfbped in Train Loads. Has the largest sale of any Cereal Food in the world, The reason for it is in every spoonful | Sold o n 2 ib. Packages.