Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, December 9, 1894, Page 10

%—_‘ THY AHA, D Woman’s Domain. FRENCH FASHIONS. _Dassling Parisian Hats wnd ovelties In Fur. “Hats have grown wide to preserve the unities,” sald oracularly M. Carller, the well known modiste of the Avenue de I'Opera, Patls. “The movement was Inevitable to keep pace with the sleeves. Measured by past seasons, today's hats, you may say, , are enormous, but set over today's gowns they are perfect and they are moderate I8 by comparison. Do I make myself clear?” It was a pretty fllustration of how dress, well as pictures, follow the laws of art. It one part of the composition, as the sleeve top, reaches out beyond the oid outlin, strajghtway a new outline must be Imagined, and this new imaginary outline must be touched from point to point by other mem- U'bers reaching out, as the skirt edge, the hair, the hat, to form to the eye an agree- able continuity. The dress artist works like the landscape artist. Unity, harmony, simplicity are his laws and beauty is his end. “But T will tell you of something moderate,” pursued the milliner. be to set over these wide sleeves a hat tall . and narrow. The result would bo a frightful * discord. A woman would be turned ~Latin cross. Charming crown a bird rested with wings deployed * some twenty Inches from tip (o tip, and an- other whose knot of ribbons would not be spanned by a two-foot rule. The while I tried to understand all that is and is not in an adjective. The extremes at least lie close together, for if the sleeves are a hair's breadth too small the hats worn in Paris RRIAGE ROBE. today become at once glgantic; their size makes them literally stunning. The ponnet, small as it is, you obserye, has this same outward movement over the ears. Mayba, it. 18, only, an jornamental pin that Feacheg otit, ‘or A plume, the slightest indi- catlon Js enough, the eye needs only a sug- gestion_and fancy supplies the rest. For ex- ample, ook at this little capote. It is dimin- utive, a size for a doll, yet this wide bow on the front and the tips over the ears all have the lateral movement. A six-inch brim would not be more suggestive, it is an embodiment of the prevailing idea. The bonmet in ques- “tion was formed after {he peasant’s head- dress of Provence, of green metallic pap'r, a new bonnet material, embroidered over with jet. .Oni the front was a bow of black lace of butterfly form, wired out with a thread of beads in metallic colors, and at the center was a star of flashing fet. A pompon rose over the top, and black tips fell at the sides. It was an unedited model for theater wear. DAZZLING HEAD DRESSES. “These lustrous capotes are the key of the season,” and monsieur indicated another one. It was all in overlapping scales of gcld that shaded down to black. Its form seem:d (o be a diminutive Roman helmet pierced through on each side with arrows stuck in like long Japanese hairpins; high above the crest tow- ered the tail of a paradise bird toned down to black, and small black tips fell down the back. But these detalls were lcst in the * gemeral effect, which was ravishirg; it ne:tl.d down In the hair like a bird in its nest. . “Come to the medium-sized round hat and . you observe the same general character, al- ‘ways there is this lateral movement, this sympathy with the sleeve.” A black felt amazon was the illustration, the sides rolled « up against the crown, the vacated space over the ears occupled by a knot of English point lace; verdure green velvet passed round the erown and formed a standing loop on each side, and a bunch of plumes at the back rose Thigh and fell down low upon the hair. The richest trimmings are those great PARISIAN STRE birds of rare plumage that have to be sought in the jungles of the earth, but they re costly, and small purses content them- lves with doves artificially dyed, or with flocks of smaller birds, numbers being put upon the same hat. As to colors in fashion, all the tiuts of reddish-violst come first, they are the rage; uext in order are r geranium, dahlia and reddish brown. Black plumes are used in profusion. They are under the brim and stand out at the stdes and fall down at the back. They are the par _excellence, “One Indiscreet question, n these bounets are the monsieur. Al | “It would | into a | No, the hats of today are not | * enormous, they are only large,” he sald, and | indicated a superb conféction on whose ample | | rose up in the night and slayed her. what 1s And monsieur smiled curfously and said is all one; there are no elderly women. glitt the key for the elderly woman?" “It Thie ing capote moulin Is worn by women of 65, and it sults them, too.” In Paris all is possible, youth, The fur season started in, a variety of new furs, each rumor, would become the vogue, but each of which in fact has disappeared in turn till there Is now left for day wear only the old standbys, of seal and sable, with as- trakhan in the second plan, and for evening the lang-haired Persian lamb and ermine. Seal still makes the orthodox jacket; sable remains the most beautiful fur for trim- ming, and only the white furs mentioned have been found to adequately grace beauty at night. even eternal as usual, with of which, by FUR FIGAROS. Likewise French women start in the season with an attempt at jackets, but after a few tentatives the jacket disappears; the furriers make them, but nobody wears them. French wom:n do not like jackets, which have too much a look of utility; French style does not assimilate them. This season the skirt of the jacket was very quickly bobbed off short at the waist line, leaving a sealskin bodice or a figaro, as you please, or vest, as the French say. This figaro is closo fitted, single or double breasted with a vest perhaps of astrakhan hooked up close to the throat with a collar band and decorated with large tortoise shell buttons. A silk blouse may possibly be worn under it, but not a bodice; it is too close. This gar- ment suits exactly the French idea; it has no long, sedate lines in it; it gives a plump look to the figure; there is something stac- cato in it; it is, in fine, chic. Also it is a garment perfectly formed for active sports, for skating, bicycling and so on, which recommends it to fin de siecle women in general. Add to it a velvet skirt, a muft to match and a big hat, and there is formed one of the most charming costumes of the season, worth half a dozen long jackets in effect of vivacity and style. For ceremonious dress, long jackets are made, but they ars oftenest of velvet, match- ing m color a-silk, or satin, or cloth- skirt with revers and collar fur-faced. These have a dignity beiitting dignified cccasions, which 1s another matter, and not the everyday affair of the coquette. Fur capes are very fashionable and expen- sive, also. They are nearly half-length and very full and have a shawl collar of silver or black fox. Victorines of sable are one of the greatest elegancics, cut not wide and droopingly sedate, as in our grandmother's day, but abridged and full of frivolous go- dets, with ends that reach the foot. L:t over balloon sleeves, the victorine gives to the wearer at a distance somewhat the look of a pair of scissors. , This scissors effect Is the quintessence of style. FUR TRIMMINGS. Quantities of small animal skins entire are used for trimmings. Apparently the slaugh- ter of beasts to furnish forth the gown rivals that of birds to deccrate the hat, but it is explained that these Innumerable little an'- mals are manufactured, o far towards crea- tion have the furr'ers gone. Certain gowns look like the walls of a trapper's lodge after tho day's hunt; heads and tails follow each other in procassion round the skirt, ar> knot- ted up into roseites and occupy every point available for an ornament. For a boa, one beast does not suffice, two are fastened to- gether, the tails hanging down the back and the heads crossed in front. But these things pass the boundaries of taste and are only mentioned to show the blow of the wind. Littlo beasts are fashionable, but to b2 effective they must be used judiciously, as in the following costume made for the Princess C——=ky. It is a gown of violat cloth, deep vio'et velvet and sable. The skirt has the front breadth trimmed round entab- lier with fur and a band of chenille passe- menterie, and is buttoned from the belt down on each side with three iridescent smoked pearl buttons. A triangular plait of the velvet is set in between the front and side gores. The back breadth is bor- dered rourd and up the sides like the front High-necked bodice of the velvet and over it a low-necked bodice of the cloth, slightly bouffant in front over a velvet belt. The neck rounds up toward the shoulders and is caught with a head of a littls beast that forms a strap over the shoulder. A tippet round the neck furnishes a third head and the muft is ornamented with heads and talls. CHRISTMAS GIFTS. Some of the Holiday Noveities Now Ap- pearing In the Shops. The shops are filled with Christmas wares and gifts for the Yule tide. Naturally the rush is not as great as it will be later on, for most women love to procrastinate about these things, looking and deliberating to their heart's content bifore buying. Where the purse is slim and friends are many, and pres- ents must be given, this matter of selection is a very serious question. It is rather a wise thing, therefore, to run over some of the many novelties that are brought out two weeks beforehand. . Books there are in abundance. The latest works in the newest bindings, barring, of course, sensational literature, it being an un- written law of the etiquette of giving that vol- umes casily obtainable in paper cover for 17 or 20 cents are not suitable for presents. And a book should be selected with more care than a sllver set. Silver, it seems, remains the favorite metal in which to express good wishes. This is made up into dozens of charming articles. The well known devices for toilet articles are all there, with the additicn of a brush cleaner. This little aftair is constructed on the pattern of a curry-comb, with repousse handle; it serves to scratch out dust which lodges In the bristles and should be so speedily dis- lodged in & brush. It obviates the necessity for frequent washing, a process that does not tend to strengthen the hold of the metal back to the bristles. Ink bottles are made after a new device this year. The receptacle proper is smaller, it anyihing, but mounted in a bottle of cut glass as large as a small caraffe, with im- mense silver stoppers, the whole setting on a round salver of the same metal. But there are a host of smaller and less ex- pensive articles. For men, there are silver- mounted corks, invaluable when traveling, for preserving the bouquet of wine. Small sil- ver bouquet holders that remain invisible on the outside of a coat lapel, superb pipes heavily encrusted with filigree, or inlaid with onyx, & new oxidation applied to silver match cases with admirable copies of famous pie- tures in bas-relief. For the domestic girl novelties in the way of spool rests, of slver or tortoise shell, are tashioned. Matching these are emerys in fruit patterns, mountel on metal and ac companfed by long, silver bodkin holders. Cucumber serverettes are the last thing in tableware; with vegetable dishes, as well as simple and inexpensive silver shells made to hold porcslain baking dish; these are the pret- tlest Imag nable receptacles in which to serve potatoes au_gratin or maccaroni and can be bought for $2 or $3. For the desk one finds articles to meet every need, made of boa constrictor skin., Some might feel about owning such an am- phiblan collection as did the old farm woman who killed a turkey gobbler that had alw: hated and defied her. The legend runs that even after he was quartersd and picked he Still, one cannot be prejudiced if ons wishes to be fash- fonable. Shopping bags are popular, made of dark moire and flaunting & heavy metal elasp with name and address inscribed. The new handkerchief case introduced by Caroline Miskel s pew and pretty. It is attached to the belt or skirt by two tiny hooks, the bag of silk cords, V shaped and tipped with silver or gold. They are considered smart for dmner or evening gown, never for the street, A small cut mucilage bottle, mounted in silver, is a pretty and seasouable gift just showing In the shops, together with hairpin boxes. These are square and divisional, a compartment for each style of pin. This brings up the great variety of orna- mental combs. Al modeled after the Span- ish, they are devised in every shade of tor- toise and inlaid or filigreed with gold, silver or mother o' pearl, and vary in price from $2.50 to $2: Shoe hot paper knives and the wsual key for the coguette, lyanphorull- of men's rticles are now tipped with fvorized horn as carving knives are treated. It is durable and more masculine. BODICES AND WRAPS. Some Exquisite Flower-Like House Walsts Worn by Smart Women. As winter festivities coniinue themselves and afternoon tea and other modest home functions become more and more patronized the fancy walst grows In favor and loveliness. It Is always so much less difficult to suc- cessfully accomplish half a costume than a whole toilet. Now that the new hybrid art of growing half a dozen materials and as many colors into the sam® garment has coms in, the woman of wits and a well sup- plied scrap bag sees before her possibilities for a combination of economy and splendor never known before. Velvet, silk, lace, chiffon, fur and jet or passementerie are often seen piled together on a single slight body, and yet the result is not the hopeless jumble it would seem. Far from it indeed, for judiciously com- posed, with' a proper blending of tones and stuffs, this late (reak of fashion is a thing of pure and becoming loveliness. At a lats afternoon tea given in a tiny but very elegant uptown apartment a bodice was seen that many quoted as a faithful ex- ponent of this strange flower millinery. It began with a short round Eton of dim art red Liberty velveteen—a charming and inex- to unfold . SUNDAY, flame red—that wicked, iiffected by Mr. Irving's Me 6"“ soated in sedate dignity, Y dor and littert phisto. was of tar and velvet, y The opeth'Slohks that follow have none of the inexpdhsife elements that mark the two first waisf§*Nut they might serve as com- fortabls @@ nodish models for less costly materialé)*THe long one Is of heavy coral pink cloth, ‘with a magnificent sable lining and borded ‘blige, The shorter one, which made it§1firdt?appearance at a dance a pair of nights!age; Is of maize satin, embroider:d with gol®iun® jet, with a border of black fur and w/Héhvy mufling scarf of white chif- fon. woifa As to el piain black shirt of silk or satin, the Inevitables accompaniment of the fancy bodice, it = thing to be left entirely to skilled fingers. Otherwise, though cut on the same proscribed lines of the most modish con- fections, like Ophelia's rue, alas, it is “‘worn with a difference.” Unexpected saggings and fiendish bulgings will mar it gomewhere; and 80 It is with gratitude that one turns to a certain little sifk kilted skirt in black ahd color now being adopted. These skirts are found in the shops in hemmed and sewed up patterns, and need only a band and walst shaping to make them over haircloth petticoats the perfection of comfort for semi-dress wear. NINA FITCH. CHATELAINES AND BUCKLES. New Fashions in Jewols that Will Be Much in Evidon At the recent horse-show, where the first fashi‘ns of the season are displayed, it was observed that the newest watch chatelaines ur brocade with revers, col- #1hd “Dolt of mows green antfque were elaborately jeweled crowns. Mrs. John | Jacob Astor wore cne such studded with | DECORATIVE BODICES. pensive material, by the way, worthy con- sideration. Under this fell a loose blouse of Spanish Valenclennes lace in a deep, rich yellow, hung over the bust, and banded at neck and wrists with brown mink tails. Little polnted cuffs and a collar of turquolse velvet turned over this, and at ths slight belt and peeping out from the wrists was a roll of gold-colored satin ribbon. The sleeves were bishop shape, three quatters length and decorated at the outside with the Spanish Val:nciennes. This fell in a loose downward cascade caught on as carelessly as would b: a torn cobweb on a flowering roze bush, and the whole was a bewitching fantasie. FOR AFTERNOON TEA. Another bodice 03 the same order had a round yoke, formed in rows of at least four different designs in jet. The body itself was of chiffan, in a misty opal blue, with heavy revers of biscuit lace, a neck bahd of sable and a polnted collar of geranium pink vel- vet. However, fortunately for evenly balanced tastes, there are other medés than these harlequin patterns to be chosen from. They do not admit of the same possibilities of using up bits of handsome materials on hand, but to many minds they are more satisfy- ing. Waists of tartan velvet have only the splendor of their plaids, or, perhaps, a crush collar and belt of black satin ribbon as orna- mentation. Plain and figured chiffons tumble in ten- der, drifting billows over busts and arms; and again a sober-hued one—say black, for example—will be content to shine mainly in a gay lining that will peep through innu- merabl> eylet holes, cut in stiff, daisy pat- terns, maybe, all over the chiffon. These open work chiffons, by the way, seem a favorite novelty, but, after all, they are not near so effective as those plain or fig- ured. The first thing one notices in the fancy bodice of the hour is that all sleeves droop down and outward, and that there is a grow- ing tendency to create a slight blouse effect at the waist in front. From the throat, at times, will hang huga collars of lace or vel- vet, made to flare out like a skirt. Another dainty waist of white china silk, scattered with the shadowy ghosts of pinks, perhaps, will have square bretelles of lace projecting from the arm holes over the sleeve tops. The little pointed collars over the -high neck band jostle the stock and gorgeous czarina, but where the stock is worn it is noticed that the side wings are placed well back of the ears, for when put too far for- ward they will produce a hopelessly round- shouldered effect. IMPORTANT DETAILS. Sleeves that refuse to behave themselves are shirred over the top with two or three rows of gathers, and so are made to hang in the lines beloved of fashion gods. At the high tea already quoted were seen AN OPERA CLOAK. three other bodices that are certalnly worthy of mentlon. Two were of Itallan crepe, which is crinkled lige a mourn- ing vell, and is a late bargain In diaphanous stuffs. In our mothers' time these crisp, spark- ling webs were expensive Juxuries, but today, in tones that rival the rainbow itself, they can be bought—and don't despise them in consequence, for they are exceedingly effect- ive—as low as 25 cents a yard! The bodice pouring tea with the huge sleeves wrinkled on the forearm and dotted midway by a sugar-brown velyet bow was of Indian meal yellow. The one standing next it shone in the shaded candle light with an almost mpish charm. It was made entirely of its own materfal, with double puff sleeves and sus- pender-like pleces dragged over the shoul- T gIpreT— liamonds And. gubles, and the effect on a ark gown, was, yery pleasing. The jewelers gre adopt'ng this fancy of a fashi-nable lgadar and crowns, therefore, are the preference of those who desire to have their time plece, en evidence. The erown is, fashioned of slender gold wires, holding precious stones aloft. At its base is a swive), from which depends the tiny watch;, andy bear in mind that all time pleces sh yld be just as Insignificant as the maker will glvg them to ycu. Of course, these incrgas:. from $5 to §10 in price for every hair, breagth taken off thelr circum- ference, but jt fs always a more laborious feat to mu‘&cu. a miniature than a large por- trait. 3 One of these ymall affairs has be:n fash- foned by a leadipg jeweler to, wear as 4 ring, the face n:t measuring mofe than a hand- some- solitajre. Jts price is,double that of an. ordinary cwatch A dead gold crab, who seems to have affili- ated with. his cousin—the oyster—and, eome to the surface, his claws dripping with pearls, is another of the unique designs. A jewe'ed octopus who has sucked to him a great emerald sea serpent, about whom he has artistically wound his ‘‘feelers,” will be used to cluch the watch of a fashionahle woman after Christmas, and an Etruscan gold dragon, whose eyes are diamonds and whose scales are emeralds, will form another gift to ornament the lapel of a woman's coat. Not 0 expensive as these. but exquisite in dainty approp: atenesi,are the ver; new month chatelaines. These are shield shaped and en- ameled. The body is usually <f Pompeiian red with the zodiac signs of her birth month raised in dull g1d or jewels on its surface, These come {rom §10 to $15, and are con- sidered the very correctest chatelaine to wea Howev:r, should (ne wish to be distinctly smart, after the fashion of these Fifth ave- nue women, who know how to spend so much money in a’qulet way, one will fasten to their smart tailor gown, n't a jeweled pin, but a small black silk fob, not over two inches in length, with a dull gold slide. This is caught at the top by a gold safety pin. These cost only §7, but their neatness is their great charm. Buckles remain the favorite ornament. For every conceivable part of feminine apparel are they constructed. A round dozen is not considered superfluous worn by a well-frocked woman, They nestle in the hat, dot the col- lar, confine the cufts, outline the belt, until verily no knight of old possessed more when in full armor. They come for dinner gowns in the form of miniatures surrounded by jewels and half moons of rhine stones. For simpler uso somie new ones of conventional shapes are Inlaid with large block amethysts, some with Mexican onyx, others with moon- stones. Tho stones are not expensive ones, but their use in the dead gold produces a luxurious effect. These will be placed es- pecially on the broad moire belts which are used as girdles for house bod'ces, Some young girls who are fond of memen- toes are geting brass sword hilts from mili- tay admirers and wearing them (n a polished condition, heavily monogramed. They are de- cidedly the mcst eflective - made for the stylish Norfolk jacket of cheviot. The round buckle has disappeared with the double bow knot chatelaine. Dlamond shaped or square shields are getting a trifle passe, being gen- erally superseded by the old-fashioned long slide buckle. It is in this make one sees the clabroate, inexpensive stone work. In each jewely shop. widow .can be seen a varl-colored display of “czarinas.” The ma- terfal of velvet chiffon satin, is gathered into full ends, to $how off the exquisite orna- ments that are §6%d with them. Every form of Jeweled buckle 1¥-evised and of every price. Some of thé pareicularly “‘dressy” rues have bars of rhisie stéhes buckled into ine velvet at intervals'Sf ¥res inches. These are go- ing to be whrlabout the throat with decol- lete gowns 'Mftef the most approved French fashion. Of rings there ls little new to say. The yellow @lamond mounted with the white, the $10,000 ruby for th'se who can afford’ it, areall cprecisely as last season. A pretty deviatton < noticed was in one set- ting. Three! dlamonds form the base of a fleur-de-lis, Jsherdong flower supplied by a dark stone, usumdly a sapphire. The setting extends nearly te:the knuckle. T GUEST CHAMBER. w110 A Few Prictical Hiots as to Its Fittings Q9D and Care. Do not Kétp'Ytie bed in the spare cham- ber “made ug” It holds cold and damp- ness—is not neat—and neither is it healthy. When & guest is to occupy it in cold weather turn on the heat and open the win- dows at the sameé time for two hours at jeast, then shut the windows and leave the heat on. If you have no furnace heat of any sort, you will have a stove, as a mat- ter of course. Follow the same rules with the heat that you have. Do not put into your spare room all the thing in the bouse that you don't care to see yourself—all the old pictures that you have outgrown, for instance, and the shabby ornaments. Keep it rather bare of decora- tions except a hearty welcome, which excels all that can be bought. Have a desk in the room if possible, and keep It supplied with MAIL ORDERS FILLED, and when your guest Is to arrive put. a few delicate fresh crackers into it A guest s often faint for a mouthful, at some unaccustomed time for the family vis- ited, and may for want of that mouthful be made wretched. In the house of avother It is not ‘easy to ask for a ‘bite out of time." If you have on the bed your very best spread of any kind that you dread t. sece soiled, keep in the closit a cover nmew or perfectly clean, such as you have for sweep- ing. Say, “if you like to lie down there is a rug or coverlet here on this shelf, to throw over y.u.” That is if you have not a lounge. In either case keep somewhere in the room a blanket of some kind, to use when taking a nap. See that the towels are always fresh. That you have a couple of wash cloths, and that a pitcher of warm water is set down at the d-or every morning, for it may be a necessity of existence. If your visitor has a_ child that she is afraid will fall out of b:d, and you have 1o crib to give her, do not make a barricade of chairs, but get your lapboard and push it down between the side of the bedstead and mattress and you will have a perfect protectin against all rolling off the mat- tress. It Is so very simple that one wonders that it has not been thought of in every household. Another use for a lapboard is that when an invalid is taken to drive in any carriage—public or private—that has seats oppesite to each cther, that a perfect bed can b> made by simply slipping the all- useful lapboard under one cushion of each opposite seat. Push up close t. the sides of the carriage, put a pillow over the board and you have a bed. It you want t- keep your babies from Kicking oft the coverings, pin them in on each side, Take the largest size safety pin and pin through the blankets and the sheet to the mattress underneath. Leave enough “leeway” for the restless little feet, and yet not too much. Experience will tell you just how much and just how little to leave. It is highly dangercus for children cf any age to throw off the bed clothing, and much howel trouble is very often the result. Then everybody wonders “how that child caught cold.”” Always have a candle and matches on the candle stick in your spare room, for all sorts of cocasions may arise when it will be much needed. roont, rashion Cut-glass handles for umbrellas are new; (hose, too, of the Rockwood pottery, are 0. New small boxes and baskets in odd shapes are made of palm leaf laid over foundation. A new weave of velvet for furniture cov- ¢ring has-a crushed and creased look, like crepon. Skeleton brocade 1s a tended for portieres that the Associated Artists. The small fans known as empire fans are in vogue, as indeed most things -of thy Napoleon epoch are. Heirlooms are es pecally valuable. Two rows of golden-brown satin-edged faille ribbon forms a stock collar that is finished with a rosette of sago green chiffon placed each side near the front. Corsage watches are shown in the new black gun metal, ‘and are unobtrusively fastened on the left breast to hook catches of the same metal. The latest novelty in an ornamental brooch is a turtle, whose shell is a beautiful fine opal an inch and a half long. The legs, head and tail are of diamonds and rubles. Black, green, avd dark violet velvets are in great use this season for making dressy hats, and velvet dahlias somewhat smaller than the natural flowers are arranged in groups of twos and threes in eccentrio places. Many women now affect the shaggy Eng- lish fabric, striped diagonally, called Picca- Qilly tweed. It does not commend ftself t general taste, but admirers of rovelty elect for it very generally. Everything, even the the godet fullness, and capes display this sort of plaits with great effect. They are made of silk, velvet, cloth or fur, and are marvels of milllnery art as to trimming. Oval miniatures on porcelaln, or with that effect, are late French novelties seen in New York shops. They come large as belt buckles for house gowns, or smaller in sets for but- tons to ornament a bodice. It is rarely that we see a gown which strictly follows the lines of the figure, and except where the tafllor gown comes in - new material Is a design in from hats and toques, has some of the evening paper and pens and ink, and not clots of black stuff. Leave a few postage stamps. Have a pretty litlte jar somewhere in the ures seem (0 have gone quite out of date, Such torturing of material to produce over- trimmed corsages and athletic-looking shoul- best at the lowest price. Black or blue clay worsted dress sacks and cutaways, suits in regent cut trimmed and lined, bound or Black or blue clay worsted suits in sacks or cutaways, cut extra long, the best imported goods, made up in TAERION T el s skive the height of 13th and Farnam, Omabha. ders has never been seen before generation. Chinchilla has suddenly been discovered to in this | boa very expensive and, consequently, much to-be-desired fur. It is used with sumptuous offect on sealskin. A triple cape seen the other day had éach circle of seal edged with the soft gray of chinchilla. Ermine, which is so fashionable for capes, collars, and various purposes of trimming, has found further resources for usefulvess in the waistcoat worn with the tailor-mado coat. It Is made with a box plait and a pouch effect in front quite as successfully as if it were velvet. A novelty in fur boas is made of Persian lamb, shaped a little like a collar at the back, and trimmed down the front with in- numerable mink tails, three rosettes and plaited ends of black lace edging, and a bunch of violets at one side, opposite the little black head with its grinning teeth. In popular winter dress fabrics are rich- looking, heavy woollen reps, Engilsh serg in a variety of new handsome colorings, very beautiful patterns in silk and wool mixtures, and lastly the thick winter crepons which are perhaps even more admired than wero the summer varietics. The ripple effect Is seen frocks and even in bonnets. A double ripple forms the brim of a coquettish large hat Women with irregular features do well to se- lcct hats whth irregular brims. They are less trying than the more severe styles, and are almost sure to be becoming. AL LG e CONNURIALITIES. in cloaks, in Rev. E. A. Reynolds, a Rondout, N. Y., preacher, became engaged to ‘a Chicago woman through a matrimonial agency. As soon as the prospective bride saw her in- tended she gave him a large mitten. But the minister did not mourn. Meeting one of his flock, a Miss Martin, on the strect, he proposed and was accepted, and without further preparation sought a minister and had the knot tied. A romantic death bed marriage occurrid at Riverton, 11, last week. Colonel George B. Richardson, a tich bachelor, finding that he was about to die, and desiring that his housekeeper, Miss Marion B. McNeelty, a maiden of 54 years, be left all his prop- erty, secured a license, and the couple were married by Justice Knott at the sick man's bedside. of land Kansas Jinks—1 understand you were pretty well oft before you were married. Blinks but I didn't know it. A man has no right to conclude b that marriage is a failure just b finds out, alter he has sat down, that the baby has been amusing himself by spilling a bottle of mucilage in one of the library casy chaira. Maude—I understand to you last night and you refused him; Marie—Yes; although, poor fellow, I afraid that if he had not left me x0 h riedly 1 might have relented and accepted him. Maud—So he told me. Magistrate—Why did you marry two wives? Pat—Well, sor, as long as I supported the boths av thim widout wan knowin' about de cther, I t'ought as how I might be doin’ hu- manify a blessin’ by dispensin’ wid wan ould maid. in the county, and 2,000 acres in that Jack proposed “Mother,” sobbed the young bride, “he is| Just as mean as he can be.” “No he isn't, Qear,” said the mother soothingly. “A man can't really develop all his meanness till he has been marrled four or five years." “My dear,” sald Mr, Kickles, *you are, to say the least, very hasd to plae” “Oh, 1 don't know about that,” she replied. “I married you, you know. Foreign papers say that Signor Crispl, Italy’s premier, and his wife, born Donna Lina Barbagallo, were remarried by a priest in Naples a few weeks ago. The marria years ago was only a civil one. Signor Crispl consented to the church ceremony, it Is sald, at the solicitation of the Princess Lingua- glossa, mother of the young man who Is to marry the signor's daughter. e L Tho Pygmies. Dr. Franz Stublman, who accompanied Emin Pasha into the heart of Africa, saw much of the people called pygmlies. He looks upon them as the remnant of a prim val race which at one time occupled the whole of tropical Africa and southern Asia. They have lost their original language and have been encroached upon by surrounding tribes, even within the dense forests to which they retired, until they are met with only In scat- tered remnants. No trace of degenerszcy s to bs found among them. — The Jewish Messenger tells a story of a number of boys who wero playing Saturday in ront of an Eplscopal church. The rector Richardson owns about 1,000 acres | We're Kranks—they say Well, let it be so—Ilet them say we are sticklers for quali- ty—no matter if we do not want to buy it cheap—that's our business—In fact, we make it our business—but it don’t in- crease our profit any—it just enables us to sell our clothing for a considerable less than others do—while the same quality re- mains— We buy the best from the best makers and sell the g all wool, neatly 0 L] unbound, at . . The M. H. Cook Clothin VY Mme. M. Yale's — BEAUTY SECRETS. GRAY HAIR. EXCELSIOR HAIR TONIC Turns gray hair back to its original eolor WITH- OUT LYIS. It affords me greal pl W call n of the public to the F 18 the first and only positively turna color without dye. It has Yale, that_ wonderful woman chemist, has made this most valuable of all chemical discoveries. Mme. Yale personally endorses its action and givex tie public her sol itee that it hias been tested in evi oh itself 1o bo. (he stops hair falling ant_growth, eon= v other injurious chemists invited to ery other preparation for , it 18 not sticky or greasy; on the com- trary, 1t makes the hair soft and fluffy and kecps it in’ curl, ¥ DS it I8 especiatly recommended, All druggists sell it. Price $1.00, FRECKLES Qn(l LA FRECKLA., ) all whom it 11818 TO (¢ . Madame M. 1y _coneern: have dlscovered, com- ed and placed upon the market for sale, ckln, the first and only known cure for 1 personally eo it to remove o skin any case Kles in existence, not_of long standing. La Freckla Iy harmless, as clear os water, does not show on the skin, has a natural action in smplexic A Freckla can be ob- first class drug store or can be ail. Orders promptly filled upon res Price, $1.00 per bottle, WRINKLES. EXCELSIUR SKIN FOOL. MME. M. YALE'S EXCELSIOR S8KIN FOOD 15 the only genuin orbing Food in the word It s compoun by secret process knawn only to Mme. Vale, whom the whole world must thank for this murvelous remedy that feeda the shrup- overished skin by absorption ae sat- lafuctorily as we feed th ach. Wein isappe om the fa through the . youthful, s s tho sclen preserving youth as creat i careful and & sior Skin Food, A there are many ime sent for b ceipt of price et Yal % s it ts the only genuine and | mitations. SOLD BY ALL DRUGGISTS. MME. M. YALE, TEMPLE OF BEAUTY, 146 State Street, Chicago, Il suddonly came out of his parsonage and t:ld the hoys to be qulet In front of the Lord's hou “That's all right, mister,” sald the boys. “Tho Lord s not here today, He 18 down the street at the Jewish synagogue.