Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, September 5, 1886, Page 9

§ THE OMAHA DAII‘Y BEE: SUNDAY o - l"l‘F\thR 5 l%-—-’l‘\\'hl VE ]’A(ilu. - ON MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 6th, 1886 Combination Suis. We are verciving in this depart- ment choice novelties cvery day. We make it @ rule neverto by two swits of a style and color, which is some- thing ladies will appreciate. Combination Swits in all prices from K10 to $50. There is no (rimming matevial made that will give that soft, elegant and vich effect as is produced by combining velvets as a trimming with other matervials, At no time hats theve been so many velvets worn as this season. They come in plain, in all colors, in stripes. and in end- less combination of coloving; also a ew plaids that ave gorgeouws in their vich colovings. All ave used as trim- mings. Some use them as panels, others for fronts, ete. No dress i complete without some plush, We have a stock of these goods suech as few western houses can earry. Plain Velvets, all colors, wide, at $1. = velvet or 16 inches Plain Vetvets, all colors, 19 inches wide, at $1.25. Plain Velvels, 19 inches wide, at $1.50. Plain Velvets, 19 inches wide, at $2. Plain Velvets, 20 inches wide, at $. AU Silk Plain Velvets at $5. STRIPED VELVETS. A9-inch Striped Velvets at $1.25. 19-inch Striped Velvets at $1.75. A9-inch Striped Velvets at $2. Striped_ Vevlets at $2.35 $2.75, 5 $7.50 and $9 per yard. These velvets compyr some very choice novelties, and cannot be found in any other store in this city. PLUSHES. 19-inch Silk Plush, a full line of colors, at $1.50. Rd4-inch Silk Plush at $2.50, all colors. SILKS! SILKS! New Goods. New Goods. BLACK SATIN RHADAMAS Very Stylish and Make Up Elegant. 21-inch Black Satin Rhadama at $1. 22-inch Black Satin Rhadama at $1.27 1-2. 22-inch Black at $1.37 1- 22-inch Black $1.7 Colored Satin Rhadama. 21-inch Colored Satin Rhadama at $1. 22-inch Colored Satin Rhadama at $1.6 Black Gros Gran Silk 5, $1.50, Satin Rhadama Satin Rhadama at At 85c., $1, $1.25, $ $1.756 and $2. All guaranteed to be the best value in this market, and to give satisfac- tion to the wearer. Will place on Sale the Second Shipment of G. H, Gilbert's Dress Goods at 50 Cents on the Dollar. There are only 4 stylesin this lot:'all new, desirable goods. Every piece has Gilbert’s original ticket and brands, whichis a guanrantee that every yard of these goods are first class in every way. Style 1, is a 54 Inch Camel's Hair Serge All new desirable mixtures and very stylish: at s At 65 Cents, worth $1.35 Note the extra width Style 2 is a Camel's Hair Canvas Cloth In mixtures, with Fancy Bourette side bhand for trimming. This lot is 44 inches wide, and our price Monday is 65c. Style 3 is a Fancy Striped Serge, 44 inches wide, all good colors, and in such demand that we could have sold every yard of the lot to a jobber at the price we ask for them Which is 65 Cents per Yard. We have only one case and would advise our friends to come early if they want some of this lot; 65¢, worth $1.25. Style 4 is a Solid Colored Cavas Cloth, 44 inches wide with Bourette side band, in self colors; a great seller, and will be in great demand Monday. at the price 65¢. worth $1.25. FALCONER LOUIS™ VELVETEENS. N. B. Falconer is sole agent in Ne- braska for these celebrated vel- veteens. We take great pleasure iy introducing to the people of Nebras- Ka this world-famed velveteen, No velveteen manufacted has that soft, rich, elegant finish as the *Louis.”* A dress made of these velveteens has @ vicher look than a silk velvet, A guarantee of wear mmm,mnh« every yard of the genwine * Lowi from the cheapest tothe best qualities. “Louis” Velveteens. rk at 85¢ K at s1 h Black at nl Black h Black Black at 81. 6. “Loui” Velvefeens, Colored, 24)-inch Colors at § 25-inch Co ts . Venice Velveteens. 19-inen Black at 50c¢. imh Black at 65¢, 223-in Binck at 75¢. e \ Venice Velveteens, Colored. 19-inch Colored Velveteens at 5 22-510 Colored Velvereens at 65¢. 213- i‘l:( i Colored Volveteens at 75¢, CLOAKS! = CLOAKS! On Monday we will open our Cloak Department, and will show a line of Jackets, Short Wraps, Plush Cloaks, Newmarlels Also a full line of CHILDREN S AND MISSES’ Jackets, Cloaks, and Newmarkets. 25, 810, w40, £5), 865, 875, h Cloaks at £ 2), $37.50, Jacket m §3.50 to 825, We ask all our friends to come and see our stock of Cloaks, as we know there has been nothing like them shown in this city. NE W Jersey Flanne's, Eiderdown Flannels, Plain Grey Flannels, Scotch Mixed Flannels, BLANKETS. WOMENS WAYS AND WORK. The Fancies, Foibles and Fashions of the Gentler Sex. SONG OF THE HOUSEKEEPER. A Pointed Letter from an Omaba Lady—Unemployed Women—Too Much Time for Style— Feminine Notes, A Criticism from a Lady. To the Editor of the BE: over the columns of last Sunda observing reader will notice how wuch space is devoted to femininity. Clippings from various other papers show that the amusing carieatures by no means original with the Omaha “knights of the quill.” Some of them are exceed- ingly funny, and of course all of them are exceedingly truthful. Any one with the slightest appreciation of satire could not repress a smile at the graphic de- seription of a woman trying to throw a bri Literally and f wively, throw- ing stones belongs to the sterner sex, and itis really of no consequence 10 a woman 80 long as she has a br oom. 1t pity, however, that those C for instance, who have amuscment, ‘and who upon it, ex rown ‘(‘lllill ates, should have been creats sle “like a toboggan slide,” 1.[, them from one of the with a cls thus debar most essential and _seientific _pursuits known to modern civilization, Kunmng the sk of sceming impiety—was not “‘the g matter’’ of their Creator v much humiliated nnot ap) ate “'mint juleps rly morning cocktail,’ and regretfully ndmit a defective or, - tion in th spect. A bre: by them or \|I il Ilull\hllL an u\nh'm and “the e i t Hnu too, it is uun that we should pref rto 8ip over a cup of tea about the inanities thut we do, to canvassing present or pros- pective candid for the m-\l big steal, But sup) mistakes in our cre: 08+ will our husbands and brother pect and admire us any more? Will they help us? Women are struggling under every dis- advantage to fill honorable and inde- pendent |lm~u|uns and in spite of almost insurmountahle opposition, thy fill- 1N& HRIhS rAnks sldb by side with their brothers, )w*) are not a success, per- haps, as base-ball cateh nor in the brick-throwing act, but many a woman, by a patient p nder diflicul- ties which would overwhelm man, keops the wolf from the door. And not that only. She can and does edit news- papers with a diseriminating intelligence that does not devote all its colunins 1o “pitching into people,” nor deem it y lo exe ude all advertisements or “hominy and griddle to hold up to vidicule a < up the same (ot the 1 us rasly | bachelor m the tying o .\“n\\ us man trying to wa g rent NeRses ek are 100 1t and even we conds the “br him par If cith ity | and weakness in the other, alas! 'tis no bard thing ro do. It wo ure Lo « for | ) Qoroism, virtue, self-deniad, and pure, | o AR und(‘(ilctl religion I)«‘fr)r\'(-ud and msq peither man nor woman can claim it The world is full of shining examples, but women always lead the van. Exua M. T. OxAHA, August 30. Woman the Balance-Wheel of Society. Washington Post: Were men to con- fide more in their wives they would be better. Women have a finer and more exact sense of honor than men; their s of nght and wrong a by motives of exp leulations are le not per- lieney, and Wt to infla- e J C. |uuu;.:||( to justice we genera the man's wife knowledge of her husb nd's (-rlmv T ln~ conclusively shows that she wasin ignor- ance of his'wrong-doing, and no one is more astounded by the climax than the woman whose name has been dishonored And it is on her the gre st blow fall the vity of the world, if pity be extended to her, is tempered by scorn, and, be she ov nnocent, she never escapes a cer- tain amount of condemnation. Would {iray be now a corpse, or Lno a tugitive, or Ward a convict, if they had confided in their wi We beli Had Gray gone to his wife and said: ‘I hay cn money from my corporatiion to speculate with, but I will repay it when the market turns,” we think lus wife would have said: “Put it back; muke restitution; tell the directors, and w will be just as happy without our car- riage or our summer cottage.” A womun instinetively shrinks from t hought of wrong-doi The man, a self- llt-lmlml fool, by his “*bor- rowing” what he needs. No such Jes- nitical sophistry beguiles the wife. She knows it is a theft, and cannot be ma to see it in any other light, Now and then we hear of a man falling because of the extravagance of his wife and daughte Now und then we hear of a umn‘w'[m can say in the words of Owen thoy nsked old_them plain LOve it was thut had turned n? irain. How shou'd L heed where my band had b When my heart was dreaming of Celestin True, now and taen a man steals for but how often® Woman is ‘balance-wheel, and the man not confide in his wife leads a inot admit of the light of cd on it ne about it 1 society who doe life which day being tur The Gooa Housckeeper. Luster Leigh. Hoaw can 1 tell her? By her cellar, Cleanly’shelves and whitened wall: By llw mvk stairease and hall, Ul pleasure weasure keeps ber brooms; al compl , in cleanliness and sweetness, ‘The rose of order bloon d Women, Ella C. Lapham in the Forum: To the thoughtful woman the question recurs rain and agein, what ean be done with the purpose untrained women will- ing to work for wages, but unable to spend time and mone, a doubtful at- tempt to fit themselves for a particular A woman's exchange is for undesirable arti- cles, a few of which are bought in pity. It is a device of those who ure earnestly secking to help their fellow women, and not a natural outgrowth of the liw of supply and demand. The training sehool ns at the foundation; it fits a girl to hold her own, ashing no fayors. A woman's dmy begins with the woman nearest to her by ties of blood and affec- tion, und stretches out to those accounted less fortunate than herself; but it doe not end there. There are women far above her in the scale of wealth, per- haps, who need a wider outlook and ader sympathies; who nced to be awn out of them: s and their exclu- siveness; who need to beinterested in the great, busy, struggling world outside of their mclo, and to feel that upon them rests, in part, the responsibility of mak- better and purer. In some ways they are more restricted than the woman who sews for them. The wife of a te ster, if she have the time, can take up any remunerative employment, and her friends neither question nor repuc her. The wife of a milli 5 of unlimited leisure, “he also is idle who might be hetter em- ployed.” If she can endure the l-l|||l|w of “peculinr,”” she may ife to | the investig: 1wl improvement of | tenement houses or devote herself to a | otherwise her particulur line of study; r work for herfellow-men and women w! be confined to cl ionable bazaars. To do aught which would bring her a veturn_in money is not to be thought of for an instant. And from the wi millionaire to the girl who starves be hind a counter rather than go intoa com- fortable kitchen, the ne power is at wor ! how weak w Women may say that all honest work is en- nobling, and all voluntary idleness belit- tling, and that, in comparison with the woman who never lifts a finger to serve another, nor has a thought above her own adornment and hersocial conquests, the woman who does the work of her kitchen, if she do it well, is worthy of all the honor; but the convietion has not yet become a part of them, How Is it At Home, Philadelphia News, That she has a pretty face, Well I know She moves with quict grace, oiee is low: She 15 eyes of softest blue, Teoth like peatlss Wealth of hair of golden hue, Wantou curls, Byt her heart, s it kind, Tender, tru Is she modest and refined, Gentle, too? Fairer vision 1 may never meet, As L roamn; Bhe is surely very chariing on the streei, How at howe? ng Women Who Give Too Much Attention to Fashion, Brooklyn Magazine: The newspaper wit aims his shafts of humor at no object with such heen pleasure and delight as when he dircets them ut the modern young woman, her caprices and tenden- cies. And it must be acknowledged that he does so not wllhuu( eause in many it what is best AL 1 TALDG W ATARNaa e in hfé extend beyond the friv- ot dress and uul\v:mi adornn there are, on the other hand cent ‘that look upon life 15t begun,’’ to borrow an expres m a popular ope hese young women | lusion that social distinetion, person and richness of apparel make the woman. They g slaves to custom and fashion, and revel in external attractions. They accept the glitter for the gold, the wity of heraldry and trappings of the world for the priceless essence of woman's worth which exists within the mind. The highest attainment is not the possession of a true womanhood, but that their po sition in society may be of a conspicuous and thereto™ they bend all their i Hours are spent over the lat- est fashion plates, while days are given over to the making and perfecting of new apparel. They forget that a true i endent of outward ments, that dress is regarded s only the ivy that encircles the oak, and is never mistuken for the thing it adorns. 1tis not the queen of fashion that 1| itable balls and fash- | e and daughter of the | tre of mflumuc or author- | 5 in_the hund of the nsible and virtuous woman that authol placed, and where she dwells there may be retinement, culture, intelligence and moral power be found. The influence of such a young woman upon society is of the most salutary kind. But what'is that of the reigning society beller Men may admire “her for thie moment, when, 1 brilliantly lighted par- mh d u/lo iho sways the ity over n true, noble, but what are th lly creature, wrappe otinkhareit and the world,”” was the comment of an apparent admirer upon a young belle after an eventtul social occe: York only a few wecks since and folly neyer gained an ounce of re- speet worth the pessession, and never will. Young women, 1100 often n adulation for 1y peet, only totind at end thae it was but hollow mockery, yrotechric display, prepared sion. young woman's ambitions A true stretch beyond the boll-room and the mil: liner’s estublishment. She wiscly strives grand in womanly vir- le inspires others to sceure the same priceless crown of womanhood, This is the woman that commands the respect and ‘ldmll‘llmn of the world, not tempor: , but nently. In her, triends re o"lnlv @] store of practieal good se, and a beau- tiful harmony aboyt | cter that at once inspires sincere , which soon warms into love. The Coquette. Brooklyn Magazine, Her pleasurcs arc in lovers coy: When hers she gives them not a thought, But, like the anglor, takes moie joy In fishing than in fi aught. Friend. in is & woman's Woman's e r0 News: A hai best friend. It fits and she is never w. is short you can depend upon it that in a 58 of her pursa or a pocket of her u will fing the hairpin. If she | buttons “her shoes she uses a hwrpin, and who ever saw a woman button her It her head she scrateh it with her finger? he whips out a hairpin and nickel has »urs of the wooden treet car. Does she fingers as a man would, and then get ity Certainly not. Out comes the hairpin and the coin is lifted ont without trouble 1f her shawlpin is lost, where so good substitute as the haid pin? 17 she eats nut does she take a putpick? Most suredly not. ‘“Uhe hdirpin ugain. It is | with the hairpin that sierips open the un- | cut leaves of & book o magazine; it isa | wirpin with which sie marks ‘the pro- avorite book; if a trunk key s | irpin epens the refractory 18 1 burglar’s leton key &loves with anything else? u. ies doc lock asn would; with it she -cleans he nnwu nails and, if 1t is a elean one, even picks her teeth. And the feats' of hair scourmg that she will make a simp! hairpim accomplish newrly lief of man. Altogether, it d classed among the gréat inventions of the world, and the graye of the orginal maun who created the first one could have no prouder epitaph than thi is: *“This is the kind of a hairpin he w: Selling Maideny at Public Auction, Court Journ A singular custom obtains to this day in- some of the towns that of ‘lll( llllll on the Lower Rhige, namely, “selling” maidens at public For nearly four centuries, on Kas day—auction day town or olerk of St. Goar galled all the young weople together, an unlu- highest bidder sold the pinllv ge of dancing with the chosen girl, aud her oniy, during the entire year. The fees flowed into the public poor box. How Women Board the Open Cars. Boston Gazette: How a wowan's mind | Hatton, es an open horse ear for ari thinks she will take the cmpty seat in front, but sud- denly remembers that people on the front look™ ve and she heard of ¢ ting hit in the he with a bral then turns her the middle slip. only to conclude that isn’t going to climb over that wheel-box, The is mmllwl seat i wavers hind, she s but that Mrs. Smart ' is in tlu»m > behind it, she should have a fit to feel that she w all over all the way Just as she wondering it non the rear seat will throw gar if she sits there the con- lls: “Here, lady!” grabs her by W nserts her in a spac hadn’t noticed at .l“ but which she oc- cupies serenely all the remainder of the unconscions of vituperat wbout her who will just looking at her bac down town. that it ductor ¢ the arm Criminal Use of Corse 'fil Paul Pioneer Press: I believe there slim-waisted women to the to be seen upon the streets of in any other place 1 was king of this, n gentl \ aid to me: ‘Do you know, every time I see 1 woman going along the street look- ing as though the tirst good pufl'of wind would blow away the upper half of her or break herright intwo, I feel as though a law against the o nnmml use of corsets would be u good thing.™ ‘Women of the World. Miss Kate Field is lecturing in Michi- gan. Mrs. Lew Wallac for children, has written a book Marie Van Zandt is recovering the use ralyzed limbs, Istone 18 & woman of infinite It is said she darns her hus- band’s stockings. Jeuny Lind’s daughter is coming to this country; but, alas! she has not in herited her motner’s marvelous voice Miss Bessie Hatton, daughter of Joseph novelist and correspondent, is about to adopt the stuge us a profession. Mume. Patti will bring her husband with her during her next American tour, but only as a companion. He will not sing. Aimee, having conquc » English | language proper, 1s turn her attention to its slang. She is suid to be making vapid progress. The Y 1 “artists” seulptors, s, designers, e s, espondents, Mrs, @ over 20,000 _wom including p , wood-eutte s and music According to the co Cloveland has reduced hand-shi WKing to u fine art. She looks a_person straight in nefure sho Offors her hand. snd though she meant it. et Custer Calhoun, widow of C Calhoun and sister of General Cust tims of the massacre of 1876, is giving dings at the summer resorts in Wisconsin and Michigan vived r o 8 Interest in Captain Howgate is r by the appointment of his danght clerkstiip in the ollice of the seeretury of the tre raduate of Vassar colle 15 highly esteemed by her st one of the women of the Van derbilt fami’ mistress of a try which plduwfn-l aboye the vicissitude ot fortune. It happened in this wise: Some lesson papers were required for a mis- ion school in which she is much inter- ested, and the funds in the treasury were exhausted Mrs. nderbilt ook the matter in her ow ands, bought a small printing press, and in a rémar time turned in the lesson papers—which were, by the way, beautiful specimens of typography of all costto the mis- sion school. Since then she has printed alot of cards and letter-heads for her favorite clurlly. | SIGHT-SERING IV ITALY, A Trip from Milan Into the Country—A Visit to a Favorite Summer Resort. PICTURESQUE SURROUNDINGS. The Cave of Bocea di Piombo---Beauti- ful and Bashful ltalian Maid- ens---Silk Manufac- tories, Mirax, Ital August 15.—[Correspond ence of the Bee.]-—At 9 o'clock in the morning, on one of the most glorious s imaginable, we found oursclves seated in the rear carringe of a train bound for Erba, a favorite summer resort of northern Italy. Our destination v not the little town itself, but the Bocea di Prombo (Mouth of Lead), a good-sized grotto high up on one of the mountains surrounding the a. For the first half-hour we were :d through fertile plains, fields of and groves of shapely mulberry little station we pas seemed prettier than the last, with its e-covered windows and porehes, and wshioned flower gavdens filled with and azalea bushes, and sur- corn trees, and es old oleander rounded by hedges of sunflowers or difler- arieties of china-asters. Beyond ) the country beeame more moun tainous, and beautiful villas and country places in shady valleys, picturesque towers on the hill-tops, and rapid tor- nts from the gorge hove, sed us in swift succession. We found THE LOVELY L) TOWN OF ERBA hanging on a ledge of the mountains, as it were, and overlooking the country tor miles around. The panorama from the terrace of the Cafte del Grotto Rosso was magnilicent beyond description. At the left, through \p of the hills, was visi ble the little village of Leeco, on tl of the sume name. On the right wi Im\;:ud in by the heights of ludmum and Br while ore us, a8 far the eye could 'sce, was a streteh of pl and groves, dotted here and ther beautiful lakes, 4|l|uml old towns and luxurions summer s; whose parks and vine B pride of the neigh borhood. l]n old Cafle del Grotto Rosso wits most curiously built, with a small tunuel runni through the lower floor and leading one right into the hes art of the mountains back of the inn right, on the second floor, projected the terrace, and there we had lunch unde 1 awning with a marvelously pain stone wall for a background. At | we «d through the tunne founc the other end a merry group of peasants dancing to the music of an an- tiquated hand-organ, Then we took the rugged Little mountain path and elimbed steadily for two honrs, oceasionally stop ping to exclaim over beauty of the scenery from some prominent ledge or boulder. Wild flowers grew in the great est profusion, bushes of blackberrics (not yet ripe) and'of the poisonous gineprelle grew dungerously near the path, and the let and forming a emall lak mations in the grotto were not esting as we had hoped to tind the fact, they were quite ordinary, s wound our way to the sunlight and r a while on the summit of the moun drinking 1n the beauty of the sce and feeling loth to go_down into the ley, as beautiful as it wus. We pic immense bunches of wild fowers of arietics, delicate mountam pinks, panelle (purple bells), forget-m daisies, and a lovely white ffowe by the nat “Piedmont heather. aspring, where we stopped to drink, four ive :|~I|lnl li i girls m.o:l around The for= with qul(l\ bright_ eyes, rich golor andy ]mol\ mouths. Infuct, in northern Italy’ traveler would think it almost an im+ ].(Mmmy to tind a homely girl or young an hey are very few and far be- lly among the peasant b o’clock we were back at the ter dinner had time for a and then a cup of black tle station inn before the train carried us to Milun, A day or two later we visited tween, By THE SILK MANUFACTORIES and Rosario. A‘[ll“l h rapidly becoming the ilk et of and it u ques- tion of 1 few yo ce the city witl be to the world | Lyons has been until very lately Ik cstablishments at Rosario a1d to be us larg northern Italy, and the proc ing the silk from the cocool arating and then twistin recls or spools, is so inte umns might be written subject inno wise ex first shown by the ma into a large roon shelves, placed ond ,ulml !liuh with cocoons, white ow principally, though al one si shelves held green ones cleaning, iton large sting that col- bout 1t, and the isted. We w il )’x'l- other Neaps of beautiful The former suggested very of peanuts, hvlulfwlnu- and coloring, though ? : next room we ente s long oLy lighted, and a narrow trough ran the length of it on each side, These were fitled with boiling water, before them at equal dis- tances were plaeed small ildrons, into which the cocoons w thrown, to have a thread of silk seratched from them by machinery. Then they were tiken out in ol die and tossed into the trounghs, behind which sat the women and girls ready to take the threads und puss them up into the machinery which curved over their heads and conneeted with the s behind them, and the latter wound the rich yellow silk up into skeins, ‘The cocoons 10" the seulding water cc tin to unwind, and the threads of three had to united to make one visi- bie thread, he best cocoons will unroll 600 ds of silk, and the women must watch, and as soon as one 15 exhausted attach unother. ‘The deftness with which they knot the silk is remarkable, From the reels, in another department, the silk is wound on to large spools, then the 15 from two spools are ruh together still larger one, After this it is wound on a recl, and the skein as worsted is, in Milan 0 Almost tive again taken and twisted tightly, and sent 1o an establishment be woven into dress hundred women and girls were employed in this one place, and ¢ to twenty-four ¢ eived from ten weeordn g 1o chestnut trees, covered with burrs, seem- | their ability. What surprised us wus 10 ingly tired of witing for the advent of | find them all so healthy and strong. Al September, shook few of thew prickly | ssed in gay colored gowns, with balls ‘at ns. The Bocew di Piombo we | piefs around their necks, and at found to be | 5 oelock they chuanted the evening “Rosario” to the soft whirr of the wi- 2‘mouth, | ¢hinery. Their working hours ave from A crowd ul l\ lians with torches were u and out, and when they had sat their euriosity we proceeded on un exploring tour. A’ little stream flowing through the cave dampened our ardor as well as our feet, and suddenly put an end | to rambling by joing anotlicr side rivu- | b toBand 9 to from 2 to and evening. 12 in (he worning, avd nd 6 to 8 in the sfternoon The only diflicult thing about the work, the manager told us, is that they are obliged to keep their hands constantly in the Doiling water. Magras Cuia