The New York Herald Newspaper, August 15, 1872, Page 4

4 NEW YORK HERALD, THURSDAY, ~LIVINGSTONE'S NILE, Graphic Description of the Explorer Sketched at Ujiji. THE OUTER AND THE INNER MAN Gis Vigor, Pluck, Memory, Perse- verance, Patience and Gentleness. The World of Solitary Thought He Lived In for Six Years. THE STORY OF EXPLORATIONS. Travelling Up the Rovuma-—-Sending Back the Sepoys-—-Desertion of the Johanna Men. THE WATERSHED OF THE NILE. Five Great Lakes and Four Great Riv- ‘ ers Forming a Continuous ‘Watercourse. Does It Join the Bahrel Gazahl and White Nile? Lake Lincoln and Its Outlet to the Lualaba. THE SOURCES OF THE CONGO. Speculations on the Altitude of the Cen- tral-African Water Systems. The Unexplored Region---The Out- flow of the Nameless Lake. A WEARY TRAMP TO USUI. Manyema’s Introduction to Civilization at the Gun's Muzzle. AURI SACRA FAMES. Hiow Arab Cupidity De- feats Itself. Once the Natives Are Armed with Muskets the Slave Trade Ceases, Resolve to Visit the Head of Tanganyika. BUNDER Uyts1, on Lake Tanganyika, Dec. 26, 1871. } The goal was won. Finis coronat opus. I might here stop very well—for Livingstone was found— only the HERALD I know will not be satisfied with ‘one story, so I will sit down to another; a story so interesting, because he, the great traveller, the hero Livingstone, tells most of it himself. ON HIS DIGNITY. We were met at last. The HERatp's special cor- respondent had seen Dr. Livingstone, whom more than three-fourths of all who had ever heard of him believed to be dead. Yet at noon on the 10th of November of this year I first shook hands with him, and said to him, ‘Doctor, I thank God I have been permitted to shake hands with you.” I said it all very soberly and with due dignity, because there ‘were 80 many Arabs about us, and the circum- stances under which I appeared did not warrant me to do anything else. I wi § much a stranger to Livingstone as I was to any Arab there. And, if Arabs do not like to see any irregularity, indeed I think that Englishmen must be placed in the same category. ENGLISH IMPERTURBABILITY. But what does all this preface ana what may this Prolixity mean? Well, it means this, that I looked upon Livingstone as an Englishman, and I feared - that if I showed any unusual joy at meeting with ‘him be might conduct himself very much like an- other Englishman did once whom I met in the in- terior of another foreign and strange land wherein ‘we two were the only English-speaking people to De found within the area of two hundred miles square, and who, upon my greeting him with a cordial “Good morning,” would not answer me, but screwed on a large eye-glass in a manner which must have been as painful to him as it was to me, and then deliberately viewed my horse and myself for the space of about thirty seconds, and passed on his way with as much insouciance as if he had seen Me a thousand times and there was nothing at all in the meeting to justity him coming out of that Shell of imperturbability with which he had covered Dimself. A REPORTED MISANTHROPE. Besides, I had heard all sorts of things froma quondam companion of his about him. He was eccentric, I was told; nay, almost a misanthrope, ‘who hated the sight of Europeans; who, if Burton, Speke, Grant or anybody of that kind were coming to see him, would make haste to put as many miles as possible between himself and such a person, He wasa man also whom no one could get along ‘with—it was almost impossible to please him ; he was & men who kept no journal, whose discoveries would certainly perish with him unless he himself came back, This was the man I was shaking hands with ‘whom Ihad done my utmost to surprise, lest he should run away. Consequently you may know ‘why I did not dare manifest any extraordinary joy upon my success, But, really, had there been no one present—none of those cynical-minded Arabs H mean—I think I should have betrayed the emo- tions which possessed me, instead of which I only said, “Doctor, I thank God I have been permitted to shake hands with you.” Which he returned with a grateful and welcome smile. LIVINGSTONE'S MANSION. Together we turned our faces towards his tembe. He pointed to the veranda of his house, which was an unrailed platform, built of mud, covered by ‘wide overhanging eaves. He pointed to his own Particular seat, on a carpet of goatskins spread over a thick mat of palm leaf. I protested against taking this seat, but he insisted, and I yielded. ‘We were seated, the Doctor and I, with our backs to the wall, the Arabs to our right and left and in front, the natives forming a dark perspective beyond, Then began conversation; I forget what about; possibly about the road I took from Unyan- yembe, but Iam not sure. 1 know the Doctor was talking, and I was answering mechanically. 1 was conning th® indomitable, energetic, patient and persevering traveller. at whose side | pow pat in Central Africa. Every hair of his head and beard, every line and wrinkle of his face, the wan face, the fatigued form, were all imparting the intelligence to me which #0 many men 60 much desired. It was deeply interesting Intelligence and unvarnished truths these mute but certain witnesses gave. They told me of the real ture of the work in which he was engaged. Then his lips began to give me the details—lips that cannot lie. I could not repeat what he said. He had so much to say that he began at the end, seem- ingly oblivious of the fact that nearly six years had to be accounted for, But the story came out bit by bit, unreservedly—as unreservedly as if he was con- versing with Sir R. Murchison, his true friend and best on earth, The man’s heart was gushing out, not in hurried sentences, in rapid utterances, in quick relation—but in still and deep words, A MISTAKEN ESTIMATE. His quondam companion must have been asad student of human nature or a most malicious per- son—a man whose judgment was distorted by an oblique glance at his own inner image, and was thus rendered incapable of knowing the great heart of Livingstone—for after several weeks’ life with him in the same tent and in the same hut Iam ut- terly unable to perceive what angle of Livingstone’s nature that gentleman took to base a judgment upon, A happier companion, a truer friend than the traveller thus slandered I could not wish for- He was always polite—with a politencas of the gen- uine kind—and this politeness never forsook him for an instant, even in the midst of the most rugged Scenes and greatest dificulties, THE BOOK AND TUE BINDING. Upon my first introduction to him Livingstone was tome like @ huge tome, with most unpre- tending binding. Within the book might contain much valuable lore and wisdom, but its exterior gave no promise of what was within. Thus outside Livingstone gave no token—except of being rudely dealt with by the wilderness—of what element of power or talent lay witnin. He is aman of unpre- tending appearance cnough, has quiet, composed features, from which the freshness of youth has} quite departed, but which retains the mobility of- prime age just enough to show that there yet lives much endurance and vigor within his frame. The eyes, which are hazel, are remarkably bright, not dimmed in the least, though the whiskers and mus- tache are very gray. The hair, originally brown, is streaked here and there with gray over the temples, otherwise it might belong to ® man of thirty. The teeth above show indications of bciug worn out. The hard fare of Londa and Manyema have made havoo in their ranks, His form is stoutish, & little over the ordinary in height, with slightly bowed shoulders, When walking he has the heavy step of an overworked and fatigued man, On his head he wears the naval cap, with a round vizor‘ with which he has been identified throughout Africa, His dress shows that at times he has had to resort to the needle to repair and replace what travel nas worn. Such is Livingstone externally. THE MAN WITHIN. Of the inner man much more may be said than of the outer, Ashe reveals himself, bit by bit, to the stranger, & great many favorable points present themselves, any of which taken singly might well dispose you toward him. i had brought him a packet of letters, and though I urged him again and again to aefer’ conversation with me until he had read the news from home and children, he said he would defer reading until might; for the timo he would enjoy being astonished by the European and any general world news I poula communicate. He had acquired the art of being patient long ago, he said, and he had waited so long for letters that he could well afford to wait a few hours more. So we sat and talked on that humble veranda of one of the poorest houses in Ujijl, Talked quite oblivious of the lafge concourse of Arabs, Wanguana and Wajiji, who had crowded around to sec the new comer. A BUDGET OF NRWS There was much to talk about on both sides. On his side he had to tell me what had happened come in contact with him. Without religion Liv- ingstone, with his ardent temperament, his en- thusastic nature, his high spirit and courage, might have been an uncompanionabdte man and & hard master. Religion has tamed all these charac- teristics; may, if he was ever possessed of them, they have been thoroughly eradicated. Whatever was crude or wilful religion has refined, and made him, to speak the earnest, sober truth, the most agreeable of companions and induigent of masters. AVRICAN COMPARISONS, Ihave been frequently ashamed of my impatience while listening to his mild rebuke to @ dishonest or lazy servant, whereas had he been of mine his dis- honesty or lazineas had surely been visited with prompt punishment, I have oiten heard our sor- vVants discuss our respective merits, Your maater,,,”" say my servants to those of Liv- ingstone, ‘18 @ good man—a very good man. He does not beat you, for he has @ kind heart; but ours—oh! he is sharp, hot as fire—mxalt sana-kana moto." From being hated and thwarted in every possible Way by the Arabs and half castes upon first arrival in Ujiji, through his uniform kindness and mild, pleasant temper he has now won all hearts. I per- ceived that universal respect was paid to him by all. THE GOSPEL TO THE HRATHEN, Every Sunday moraing ho gathers his little Nock around fim and hag prayers read, not in the stereotyped tone of aw English High Church clergy- man, which always sounds in my cars insincerely, but in the tone recommended by Archbishop Whately—viz., natural, unaffected and sincere. Following them he delivers a short address in the Kisawahiti language about what he hasbeen read- ing from the bible to them, which. is listened to with groat attention. * : HIS. BODILY “VIGOR. There is another point in Livingstone’s character about which we, as readers of his books and students of his travels, would naturally wish to know something—viz., his ability to withstand the rigors of an African climate, and the consistent energy: with which he follows the exploration of Central Africa, Those who may have road Burton's “Lake Regions of Central Africa” cannot have failed to perceive that Captain Burton, the author, was very well tired of Africa long before he reached Ujijl, and that when he had reachod Ujijl he was too much worn out to be able to go any far- ther, or do anything but proceed by boat to Uvira, near the northern head of tne Tanganyika—a task he performed, we must admit, inno enviable humor. We also know how Speke looked and felt when Baker met him at Gondakoro; how, after merely glancing at the outfow of Lake Victoria into the Victoria Nile, he was unable or Indisposed to go a little farther west to discover the lake which has made Baker famous and given him a knighthood. Also, o we not all know the amount of Baker's dis- covery of that lake, and what resolutions he made after his return to civilization from his visit to the Alvert Lake t THE INDOMITABLE RESOLVE. When I first met the Doctor I asked him if he did not feel a desire to visit his country and take a lit tle rest. He had then been absent about six years, and the answer he gave me freely shows’ what kind of man he 1s, and how differently constituted he is from Burton, Speke or Baker. Said he:— “I would like very much to go home and see my childremonce agaiv, but I cannot bring my heart to, abandon the task I-have undértaken when itis so nearly completed. It only ‘requiros lx or seven. months moxe'to trace the true source that I have Nile; or with the Albert Nyanza of Sir Samuel Baker. Why should I go before my task is endod, tohave to come back again to do what [ can very well do now?’ “And why," I asked, “did you come 30 far back, without @nishing the short task which you say you” have yet to do ?”” “Simply because Iwas forced; my men would not budge a step forward. They mutimied and discovered with Petherick'’s branch of the White.) to him, of where he had been, and of what he had | formed a secret resolution that if I still insisted seen during the five years the world believed him | on going on to raise a disturbance in the country, to be dead. On my side I had to tell him very old, | and after they had effected it to abandon me, in old news, of the Suez Canal and the royal extrava- | which case I should be killed. It was dangerowwteo gance ofIsmail Pacha; of the termination of the er, explored-#ix hundred miles Cretan insurrection; of the Spanish revolution; of | of the watershed, had traced all the principal. the flight of Isabella; of the new King, A! leus, | streams which discharged their waters into the and of the assassination of Prim; of the completion | central line of drainage, and when about starti of tho Pacific Railroad across the American Conti- nent; of the election of General Grant as President; of the French and Prussian war; of the capture of Napoleon, the flight of Eugénie and of the complete humiliation of France. Scores of eminent persons— some personal friends of his—had died. So that the news had a deep interest to him, and I hada most attentive auditor. By and by the Arabs retired, understanding well the position, though they were also anxious to hear from me about Mirambo, but I sent my head men with them to give them such news as they wanted. HIS FARE AND HIS GOOD SPIRITS. The hours of that afternoon passed most pleas- antly—few afternoons of my life more so, It seemed tome as if I had met an old, old friend. There was a friendly or good-natured abandon about Livingstone which was not lost onme. As host, welcoming one who spoke his language, he did his duties witha spiritand style { have never seen elsewhere. He had not much to offer, to be sure, but what he had was mine and his. The wan features which I had thought shocked me at first meeting, the heavy step which told of age and. hard travel, the gray beard and stooping shoulders belied the man. Underneath that aged and well spent exterior lay an endless fund of high spirits, which now and then broke out in peals of hearty laugh- ter—the rugged frame enclosed a very young and exuberant soul, The meal—I am not sure but what we ate three meals that afternoon—was seasoned With innumerable jokes and pleasant an- ecdotes, interesting hunting stories, of which his frends Webb, Oswell, Vardon and Cumming (Gor- don Cumming) were always the chief actors, “YOU HAVE BROUGHT ME NEW LIFE,” he said several times, so that I was not sure but that there was some little hysteria in this jovi- ality and abundant animal spirits, but as I found it continued during several weeks I am now dis- posed to think it natural. LIVINGSTONE’S MEMORY. Another thing which specially attracted my at- tention was his wonderfully retentive memory, ‘When we remember the thirty years and more he has spent in Africa, deprived of books, we may well think it an uncommon memory that can recite whole poems of Burns, Byron, Tennyson and Long- fellow. Even the poets Whittier and Lowell were far better known to him than to me. He knew an endless number of facts and names of persons con- nected with America much better than 1, though it was my peculiar province as @ journalist to have known them. One reason, perhaps, for this fact may be that the Doctor never smokes, so that his brain is never befogged, even temporarily, by the fumes of the insidious weed. Besides, ne has lived all his life almost, we may say, within himself—in a world of thought which revolved inwardly, seldom awak- ing out of itexcept to attend to the immediate Practical necessities of himeelf and his expedition. The immediate necessities disposed of, he must have relapsed into his own inner world, into which he must have conjured memories of his home, rela- tions, friends, acquaintances, familiar readings, ideas and associations, 80 that wherever he might be, or by whatsoever he was surrounded, his own world had attractions far superior to that which the external world by which he was surrounded had, SIMPLE FAITH, Dr. Livingstone is a truly pions {man—a man deeply imbued with real religious instincts. ‘The study of the man would not ve complete if we did not take the religious side of his character into con- sideration. His religion, any more than his busl- ness, is not of the theoretical kind—simply content- tng itself with avowing its peculiar creed and ignoring all other religions as wrong or weak. It is of the true, practical kind, never losing @ chance to Manifest itself in & quiet, practical way—never demonstrative or loud. It is always at work, if not in deed, by shining example. It is not aggressive, which sometimes is troublesome and often impertinent. In him religion exhibits its loveliest. features, It governs his con- duct towards his servants, towards the natives and owards qq bigoted Mussulmans—even all who to explore the last one hundred miles she my people failed, and they set abont frustrating me in every possible way. Now, having returned seven hundred miles to get a new supply of stores and another escort, I find myself destitute of even the means to live but for a few weeks, and sick in mind and body.” Let any reader study the spirit of the above re- mark, and compare it with those which ani- ted a Burton, a Speke or a Baker. How would those gentlemen have comported themselves in such a crisis, unprepared, as we all know they were, for the terrible fevers of Central Africa ? THE HEAD OF THE TANGANYIKA. Again, about a week after I had arrived in Ujiji, I asked Livingstone if he had examined the northern head of the Tanganyika. He answered immediately he had not, and then asked if people expected he had. I then informed him that great curiosity was felt about the connection that was supposed to exist between the Tanganyika and Lake Albert. One party said that a river flowed out of the Tan- ganyika into the Albert; another party held that it was impossible, since the Tanganyika was, accord- ing to Burton and Speke, much lower than the Albert. Others were inclined to let the subject alone until they should hear from him, the only one capable at the present time to set the matter at rest forever. The Doctor replied to these remarks that he Was not aware 60 much importance was attached to the Tanganyika, as his friends at home. instead of writing to him, contented themselves with speculating as to where he should come out of Africa, and thus he had been kept ignorant of many ‘things of which those who took any interest in him should have informed him. “I did try before setting out for Manyema to en- gage canoes and proceed northward, but I soon saw that the people were all confederating to fleece me as they had Burton, and had I gone under such circumstances I should not have been able to pro- ceed to Manyema to explore the central line of drainage, and of course the most important line— far more important than the line of the Tangan- yika; for whatever connection there may be be- tween the Tanganyika and the Albert the true sources of the Nile are those emptying into the central line of drainage. In my own mind I have not the least doubt that the Rusizi River flows from this lake into the Albert. For three months stead- ily I observed a current setting northward. I veri- fied it by means of water plants. THE ALTITUDE OF THE TANGANYIKA. When Speke gives the altitude of the Tanganyika at only 1,880 feet above the sea limagine he must have fallen into the error by frequently writing the Anno Domini, and thus mad lip of the pen; for the altitude is over two thousand eight hundred feet by boiling point, though I make it a little over three thousand feet by barometers, Thus you see that there are no very great natural dificulties on the score of altitude, and nothing to prevent the reasonable supposition that there may be @ water connection by means of the Rusizi or some other river between the two lakes. Besides, the Arabs here are divided in their statements, Some swear that the river goes out of the Tan- ganyixa, others that it fows into the Tanganyika.’) ‘ A PROPOSAL. “Well, Doctor,” said I, “if I were you, before leaving this part of the country for Unyanyembe, perhaps never to return here—for one knows not what may occur in the meantime—I would go up and see, and if you like I will accompany you. You say you have no cloth and only five men. I have enough cloth and men for all your purposes. Sup- pose you go up and settle this vexed question, for 80 far as I see by the newspapers everybody ex- pects it of you.” A RESOLVE. Many a traveller, as 1 have shown, would have Pleaded fatigue and utter wearimess of mind and | body, but Livingstone did not. That very instant the resolve was made; that very instant he started to execute It. He sent a man to Said Ben Majid to request the loan of hia canoe, and his baggage was got ready for the voyage. Not yet recovered from {tue ore effects of his revurn from bis unsuccessful AUGUST 15, 1872—TRIPLE SHHET. and lengthy journey to accomplish the object that Tay s0 near his heart; yet suffering from an attack of diarrhoea and the consequent weakness it { duced, the brave spirit was up again, eager asa high-spirited boy, for the path of duty pointed out, The above is but @ alight sketch of the main points in the great traveller's character, whose personal story I'am about to relate. Iv was neces- Sary that the reader should know what sort of man this Dr. Livingstone was, after whom the Nsw Yorx HERALD thought proper to despatch a special correspondent, with an expedition, at no matter what cost. After this study of him I cannot better sum up his character than by using the words of one of my own men:—‘He is a good man, an ex- tremely good and kind man." Is it not true, then, that bis quondam companion did not know the nature of the man with whom he lived and travelled, who Aald that dvingstone would run away from any other white man who would come after him; and, is it likely that the intellect of the facetious genticman who stated his belief that “Livingstone had married an African princess, and had settled down for good,” could fathom the single-minded traveller and upright man, David Livingstone t THE DOCTOK'S STORY. Dr. David Livingstone left the island of Zanzibar in March, 1866, On tue 7th of the following month he departed ‘from Mikindini Bay for the interior, with an expedition consisting of twelve Sepoys trom. Bombay, nine men from Johanna, of the Comoro Isles seven berated slaves and two Zambezi men (tak- ing them as an experiment), six camels, three buffaloes, two mules and three donkeys, He thus had thirty mea, twelve of whom—viz., the Sepoys— were to act as guards for the expedition. They were mostly armod with the Enfield rifles pre- sented tothe Doctor by the Bombay government. The:baggage of the expedition consisted of ten bales of cloth and two bags of oeads, which were to se: ve as currency by which they would be enabled to purchase the necessaries of life in the countrics the Doctor intended to visit. Besides the cum- brous moneys they carried several boxes of instru- ments, such as chronometers, air thermometers, sextant and artificial horizon, boxes containing clothes, medicines and personal necessaries, UP THR ROVUMA RIVER. The expedition travelled up the left bank of the Rovuma River, a route as full of diMiculties as any that could be chosen. For miles Livingstone and his party had to cut their way with their axcs through the dense and almost impenetrable jungles which lined the river's banks, The road was @ mere footpath, leading, in the most erratic fashion, in and through the dense vegetation, seeking the easiest outiet from it without any regard to the course it ran. The pagazis were able to proceed easily enough, but the camels, on account of their enormous height, could not advance a step without the axes of the party first clearing the way. These tools of foresters were altnost always re- quired, but the advance of ‘the expedition was often retarded by the unwillingness of the Sepoys and Johanna men to work. Soon after the departure of the expedition from the coast the murmurings and complaints of these men began, and upon every occasion and at every opportunity they evinced a decided hostility to an advance. BERGH WANTED. .. Iworder to prevent the progress of the Doctor, Jn hope’ that it would compel him to return to the coast, these men so cruelly treated the animals that ‘before long there was not one left alive. Failing in ‘this they sct about instigating the natives against the white man, whom they accused most wantonly of strange practices, As this plan was most likely tosuccead, and as it was dangerous to have such ‘men With him, the Doctor arrived at the conclu- sion that it was best to discharge them and Accordingly sent the Sepoys back to the coast, but not without having first furnished them with the means of subsistence on their journey to the coast. These men were sucha disreputable set that the natives talked of them as the Doctor's slaves. One of their worst sins was their custom to give their guns and ammunition to carry to the first woman or boy they met, whom they impressed for that pur- pose by either threats or promises which they were THally unable to perform and unwarranted in making. An hour's march was suficient to fatigue them, after which they lay down on the road to be- hard fate and concoct new schemes to trate their leader's purposes. Towards night they generally made their appearance at, theca: ing ground with the looks of halfdead mem Such, men naturally made but a poor escort, fer had the party been attacked by a wandering tribe of na- tives of any strength the Doctor could save made no defence, and no other. alternative would be leit to him but to surrender and be ruined. The Doc- tor and his little party arrived on the 18th July, 1866, at a village belonging to achiefof the Mahi- yaw, situated eight days’ march south of the Ro- vuma and overlooking the watershed of the Lake Nyassa. The territory lying between the.Rovuma River and this Mahiyaw chieftain was an uninhab- ited wilderness, during the transit of which Living- stone and the expedition suffered considerably trom hunger and desertion of men. LYING WAKOTANI. Early in August, 1866, the Doctor came to Mponda’s country, a chief who dwelt near the Lake Nyassa. On the road thither two of the liberated slaves deserted nim. Here, also, Wakotani (not Wikotani) a protégé of the Doctor, insisted upon his discharge, alleging a8 an excuse, which the Doctor subsequently found to be untrue, that he had found his brother. He further stated that his family lived on the east side of the Nyassa Lake. He further said that Mponda’s favorite wife was his sister, Perceiving that Wakotani was unwilling to go with him further the Doctor took him to Mponda, who now saw and heard of him for the first time, and, having farnished the ungrateful boy with enough cloth and beads to keep him until his “big brother” should call for him, left him with the chief, after first assuring himself that he would have honorable treatment from that chief. The Doc- tor also gave Wakotani writing paper (as he could read and write, being some of the accomplishments acquired at Bombay, where he had been put to school) that should he at any time feel 80 disposed he might write to Mr. Horace Waller or to himself. The Doctor turther enjoined on him not to join any slave raid usually made by his countrymen, the men of Nyassa, on their neigboors. Upon finding that his application for a discharge was successful, Wakotani endeavored to induce Chumah, another protégé ot the Doctor’s, and a companion or chum of Wakotani, to leave the Doctor's service and proceed with them, promising as a bribe a wife and plenty of pombe trom his “big brother.’’ Chumah, upon referring the matter to the Doctor, was advised not to go, as he (the Doctor) strongly suspected that Wakotani wanted only to make him his slave. Chumah wisely withdrew from his tempter. THE GOOD SAMARITAN. From Mponda’s the Doctor proceeded to the heel of the Nyassa, to the village of a Babisa chief, who required medicine for @ skin disease. With ms usual kindness he stayed at this chiefs village to treat his malady. While here a half-caste Arab arrived from the western shore of the lake, who reported that he had been plundered by a band of Ma-Zitu at a place the Doctor and Musa, chief of the Johanna men, were very well aware wasat least a hundred and fifty miles north-northwest of where they were then stopping. Musa, however, for his own reasons—which will appear presently—eagerly listened to the Arab’s tale, and gave full credence to it, Having well digested its horrifying contents, he came tothe Doctor to give him the full benefit of what he had heard with such willing ears, The traveller patiently listened to the narrative—which lost none of its portentous significance through his relation, such as he believed it bore for himself and master—and then asked Musa if he believed it, “Yes,” answered Musa, readily ; “he tell me true, true, Iask him good, and he tell me true, true."’ ‘The Doctor, however, said he did not believe it, for the Ma-Zitu would not have been satisfied with simply plundering @ man; they would have mur- dered him; but suggested, in order to allay the fears of his Moslem subordinate, that they should both proceed to the chief with whom they were staying, who, being @ sensible man, would be able to advise them as to the probability or improba- bility of the tale being correct. Together they pro- ceeded to the Babisa chief, who, when he had heard the Arah's story, wnhesitstingly denounced the Arab as 8 lar and his story without the least foun- dation in fact, giving as a reason that ff the Ma- Zitu had been lately in that vicinity he would have heard of it soon enough. But Musa vroke out with “No, no, Doctor; no, no, no. Ino want to go to Ma-Zitu. - I no want Ma-Zitu to killme. I wantsee my father, my motner, my child in Johama, I no want Ma-Zita kill me.” Ipsisstma verda, These are Musa's words, To which the Doctor replied, “I don't want Ma- Zitu to kill me either; but, a8 you are afraid of them, 1 promise to go straight west until we got far past the beat of the Ma-Zitu.” Musa was not satisfied, but kept moaning and gorrowing, saying, “If we had 200 guna with us I Would go, but our small party they will attack by Bight and kill all.’ The Doctor repeated his promise, ‘But | will not Go near them; I will go west.” DESERTION OF THE JOHANNA MEN, As soon as he turned his face westward Musa @nd the Johanna men ran away in atody, ‘The Doctor says, in commenting: upon Muaa's conduct, that ho felt strongly tempted’ to stootMuay and Gnother ringleader, but was neverthelessgiad that he did not soll-his hands with their vilc blood. STRONGER MEASURES, | Aday or two afterwards anotuer of lls men— Simon Price by name—came to the Doctor with the same vale about the Ma-Zitu, but, compolied by the it number of his people to repress all such-ten- Gencies to desertion and faint-heartedness, the Dovtor “shut bim up” at onc and forbade him to utter the name of the Ma-Zitu any more. Had the Natives not assisted him he must have despaired of ever being able to penetrate the wild and uncx- ploved interior which he was now about to tread. . NO SLAVE TRADE HERE, “Fortunately,” as the Doctor says with unction, “Lwas in a country now, alter leaving the shores of the Nyassa, where the fect of the slave trader had not trodden, It wasa new and virgin land, and of course, a8 1 have always found it in such cases, the natives were really good and hospitable, and for very small portions of cloth my baggage was con- veyed irom village to village by them.” In many other ways the traveller in his extremity was kindly treated by the undefiled and unspoiled natives, THE TRAOK OF THE MAZITU. On leaving this hospitable region in the early part of December, 1806, the Doctor entered a country where the Mazitu had exercised their cus- tomary spoliating propensities. The land was swept clean of all provisions and cattle, and the people had emigrated to other countries beyond the bounds of these ferocious plunderers. Again the expedition was besieged by famine and was Teduced to great extremity. To satisfy the pinching hunger it suffered it had recourse to the wild fruits which some parts of the country furnished. At intervals the condition of the hard-pressed band was made worse by the heartiess desertion of some of its members, who more than once departed with the Doctor's personal kit—changes of clothes and linen, &c, With more or less misiortunes con- stantly dogging his footsteps, he traversed in safety the countries of the Babisa, Bobemba, Barungu, Ba- uwlungu and Londa, PRINCE CAZEMBE. In the country of Londa lives the famous Ca- zembe—made known to Europeans firat by Dr. Lacerda, the Portuguese traveller. Cazembe is a most intelligent prince; is a tall, stalwart man, who wears a peculiar kind of dress, made-of crimson print, in the form of & prodigious kilt, The mode of arranging it is most ludicrous, All the folds of this enormous kilt are massed in. front, which causes him to 160k asif the peculiarities of the human body were re- versed in his case. The abdominal parts are thus covered with @ balloon-like expansion of cloth, while the lumbar region, which is by us jealously clothed, with him is only half draped by a narrow curtain which by no means suffices to obscure its naturally fine proportions. In this State dress King Cazembe received Dr. Livingstone, sur- rounded by his chiefs and body guards, A chief, who had been deputed by the King and elders to find out all about the white man, then stood up before the assembly and in a loud voice gave the result of the inquiry he had instituted. He had heard the white man had COME TO LOOK FOR WATERS, FOR RIVERS AND SEAS. Though he did not ufiderstand what the white man could want with such things nhé had-ne doubt tha the object was good. Then Cazembe asked what the Doctor proposed doing and where he thought of going. The Doctor replied that he had thought of going south, as he had heard of lakes and rivers being in that direction, Cazembe asked:— “What can you want to go there for? The water is close here. There is plenty of large water in this neighborhood.” Before breaking up the assembly Cazembe gave orders to let the white man go where he would through his country undisturbed and unmolested, He was the first Englishman he had seen, he said, and he liked him, . A BAND OF AMAZONS, Shortly after his introduction to the King the Queen entered the large house surrounded bya body guard of Amazons armed with spears. Sne wasa fine, tall, handsome young woman, and evi- dently thought she was about to make a great im- pression upon the rustic white man, for she had clothed herself after a most royal fashion, and was armed with a ponderous spear. But her ap- pearance, so different from what the Doctor had imagined, caused him to laugh, which entirely spoiled the effect intended, for the laugh of the Doctor was so contagious that she herself was the first who imitated, and the Amazons, courtler-like, followed suit. Much disconcerted by this, the Queen ran back, followed by her obedient dam. sels—a retreat most undignified and unqueenlike compared to her majestic advent into the Doctor's presence. But Livingstone will have much to say about his reception at this Court and about this in- teresting King and Queen; and who can so well re- late the scenes be witnessed, and which belong exclusively to him as he himeelt ? FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE NILE SECRET. Soon after his arrival in the country of Londa, or Lunda, and before he had entered the district of Cazembe, he had crossed a river called the Cham- bezi, which was quite an important stream. The similarity of the name with that-arge and noble river south, which will be forever connected with his name, misled Livingstone at that time, and he accordingly did not pay it the attention it deserved, believing that the Chambezi was but the head- waters of the Zambezi, and consequently had no bearing or connection with the sources of the river of Egypt, of which he was in search. His fault was in relying too implicitly upon the correctness of Portuguese information. This error cost him many months of tedious labor and travel. From the beginning of 1867—the time of his arrival at Cazembe—to the middle of March, 1s60— the time of his arrival in Ujiji—he was mostly en- gaged in correcting the errors and corruptions of the Portuguese travellers. The Portuguese, in speaking of the River Chambezi, invariably spoke ofitas ‘our own Zambezi"—that is, the Zambezi which flows through the Portuguese possessions of the Mozambique. “In going to Cazembis from Nyassa,” said they, “you will cross our own Zam- bezi.” Such positive and reiterated information like this not only orally, but in their books and maps was naturally confusing. When the Doctor perceived that what he saw and what they de- scribed was at variance, out of a sincere wish to be correct, and, lest he might have been mistaken himself, he started to retravel the ground he had travelled before; over and over again he traversed the several countries watered by the several rivers of the complicated water system like an uneasy spirit; over and over again he asked the same questions from the different peoples he met until he was obliged to desist, lest they might say, “The man is mad; he has got water on the brain.” But these travels and tedious labors of his in Londa and the adjacent countries have established beyond doubt first, that the Chambezi is @ totally distinct river from the Zambezi of the Portuguese, and secondly, that the Chambezi, starting from about latitude eleven degrees south, is none other than the most southerly feeder of the great Nile, thus giving this famous river a length of over two thousand six hundred miles of direct latitude, making it second to the Mississippi, the longest Fiver i the world, The real and true name of the Zambeai ts Dombazi, When Lacuda and his Porta- guese “successors came to Cazembe, crossed the Chambeai and heard its name, they very naturally set it down as “our own Zambezi,” and without further inquiry sketched it as running im that direc- tion. ‘ ‘ ‘ LIEMBA A SPUR OF TANGANYIE; During his researches tit that region, 4 pregnant in discoveries, Livingstone came to a lake tying’ northeast of Cazembe, which the natives called Liemba, from the country of that name, which bordered it on the east and -sodth,am tracing the lake no:th he found it tobe none other than the Tanganyika, or the southeastern extremity of tt, which looks on the Doctor's map very much like an outline of Italy. The latitude of the southern end of this great body of water is about nine degrees south, which gives it thusa length, from north to south, of 360 geographical miles, ‘THE LUAPULA. From the southern extremity of the Tanganyik® he crossed Marungu and came insight of Lake Moero, Tracing this lake, which {a about sixty miles in length, to its southern head, he found & river called the Luapula entering it from that dt- rection. Following the Luapula south he found it issue from the large lake of Bangweolo, which ta a8 large in superficial area as the Tanganyika, In exploring for the waters which emptied into the lake he found by far tho most tmpor- tant of thése- feeders was the Chambeai. So that he had thus traced the Chambeat from “its source to Lake Bangweolo, and issue from its northern head under the name of Luapula, and found it enter Lake Meero. Again he returned to Cazembis, well satisfied tnat the river running north through three degrees of latitude could not be the river running south under the name of the Zambezi, though there might be a remarkable re- semblance in their names. MOHAMMED BEN SALIH. At Cazembia he found an old white-bearded half. caste named Mohammed ben Salih, who was kept asa kind of prisoner at large by the King necause of certain suspicious circumstances attending his advent and stay in his country. Through Livingstone’s influence Mohammed ben Salin obtained his release. On the road to Ujiji he had bitter cause to regret having exerted himself in the half-caste’s behalf. He turned out to be @ most ungrateful wretch, whe poisoned the minds of the Doctor's few followers and ingratiated himself in their favor by selling the favors of his concubines to them, thus reducing them to a kind of bondage under him. From the day he had the vile old man in his company mani- fold and bitter misfortunes followed the Dector up to his arrival in Ujiji, in March, 1869. HE WRITES TO CIVILIZATION. From the date of his arrival until the end ot June (1869) he remained in Uyiji, whence he dated those letters which, though the outside world still doubted his being alive, satisfled the minds of the Royal Geographical people and his intimate friends that he was alive, and Musa’s tale an ingenious but false fabrication of a cowardly deserter. It was during this time that the thought occurred to him of sailing around the Lake Tanganyika, but the Arabs and natives were so bent upon fleecing him that, had he undertaken it the remainder of his goods would not have enabled him to explore the central line of drainage, the initial point of which he found far south of Cazembis, in about latitude 11 degrees, in the river Chambezi, In the days when‘tired Captain Burton was resting in Ujiji, after his march from the coast near Zanzibar, the land to which Livingstone, on. his ‘d¢parture from Ujijl, bent hig steps, was unknown to the Arabs save by vague report. Messrs. Burton and Speke never heard of it, it seems, “Speke, who waa the geographer of Burton's expedition, heard of a place called Uruwa, which he piaced on his map ac- cording to the goneral direction indicated by the Arabs; but the most enterprising of the Arabs, im their search alter ivory, only touched the frontiers of Rua, as the natives and Livingstone call it; for Rua is an immense country, with a length of six degrees oflatitude and a3 yet an undefined breadth from east to west. | HE STARTS FLOM UJISI AGAIN. At the end of June, 1869, Livingstone took dhow at Ujiji and crossed over to Uguhha, on the western shore, for his last and greatest series of explora- tions, the results of which was the discovery of series of lakes of great magnitude connected to- gether by a large river called by different names as it left one lake to flow to another. From the port of Uguhha he set off in company with a body of traders, in an almost direct westerly course, through the lake country of Uguhha. Fifteen days march brought them to Bambarre, the first import- ant ivory depot in Manyema, or, as the natives Pronounce it, Manuyema. AT BAMBARRE. For nearly six months he was detained at Bambarre ‘from ulcers in the feet, with copious discharges of bloody ichor oozing from the sores as soon as he set his feet on the ground. When well, he set off in a northerly direction, and, after several days, came to a broad, lacustrine river, called the Lualaba, owing northward and westward, and, in some places southward, in a most confusing way. The,river was from one to three miles broad. By exceeding pertinacity he contrived to follow its erratic course until he saw the Lualaba enter the narrow but lengthy Lake of Kamolondo, in about latitude 6 deg. 30 min, south, Retracing it south he came to the point where he had seen the Luapula enter Lake Moero, THE SCENERY OF LAKE MOERO, One fecls quite enthusiastic when listening te Livingstone’s description of the beauties of Moera scenery. Pent in on all sides by high mountains clothed to their tips with the richest vege- tation of the tropics, Moero discharges its superfluous waters through a deep rent im the bosom of the mountains, The impetuoug and grand mver roars through the chasm with the thunder of.a cataract; but soon after leav- ing its confined and deep bed it expands into the calm and broad Lualaba—expanding over miles of ground, making great bends west and southe west, then, curving northward, enters Kamalordo. By the natives it is called the Lualaba, but the Doctor, in‘ order to distinguish 18 from other rivers of the same name, has given i¢ the name of Webb’s River, after Mr. Webb, the wealthy proprietor of Newstead Abbey, whom the Doctor distinguishes as one of his oldest and mos® consistent friends, Away to the southwest from Kamolondo is another large lake, which discharges ita waters by the important river Lockl, or Loe mami, into the great Lualaba. To this lake, known as Chebungo by the natives, Dr. Livingstone has given the name of Lincoln, to be hereafter dis- tinguished on maps and in books as Lake Lincoln, IN MEMORY OP ABRAHAM LINCOLN, our murdered President. This was done from the vivid impression produced on his mind by hearing 8 portion of his inauguration speech read from an English pulpit, which related to the causes that m- duced him to issue his emancipation proclamation, by which memorable deed 4,000,000 of slaves were forever freed. To the memory of the man whose labors in behalf of the negro race deserved the commendation of all good men Livingstone haa contributed a monument more durable than brass or stone. Entering Webb's River from the south-southwest, alittle north of Kamolondo, is a large river called the Lufira, but the streams that discharge them- selves from the watershed into the Lualaba are so numerous that the Doctor's map would not con- tain them, 80 he has left all out except the most important. Continuing his way north, tracing the Lualaba through its manifold and crooked curves as far as latitude four degrees south, he came to another large lake called the Unknown [ake} bus here you may come toa dead halt, and read i® thus:—* * * * * * Here was the furthermost point. From here he was compelled to return om the weary road to Ujiji, a distance of 600 miles. NOW TO MAP IT OUT. In this brief sketch of Doctor Livingstone’s wone derful travels it is to be hoped that the most super- ficial reager, as well as the student of geography, comprehends this grand system of lakes connected together by Webb's River. To assist him, let him procure amap of Africa, by Keith Johnston, em- bracing the latest discoveries. Two degrees soutts of the Tanganyika, and two degrees west, let him draw the outlines of a lake, its greatest length from east to west, and let him call it Bangweoto, ne degree or thereabout to the northwest let bins —_