New Britain Herald Newspaper, February 11, 1916, Page 10

NEW, BRITAYN DAILY HBERALD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 11, — 1916. ADVANCE SPRING HATS FOR HER OFF FOR SOUTHLANDS -0 @fesgestedeteteolodtduinlniolfoloieleldoiul dofeelolvivieisisiolioioieiolold ool k@ 0 NE of the most charming de- velopments of the new modes in millinery is the late sea- son showing of colored hats. This phase may have sprung from the late arriving autumn fashion for | colorful sports hats, the shapes and Btyles of which are largely drawn upon | for the modeling of these latest bits ©f frivol in the millinery world. Knitted sports hats in brilliant col- orings, as clear in tone as those seen | in parrots’ plumage, are new arrivals | in outdoor wear toggery, but the dress hats done in the same colors and du- plicating the same shapes are made of faille, velvet and heavy ottoman silks. Cerise is the favored color. Just a| simple band of folded silk, with a but- terfly bow in front and the narrow | brim machine stitched into a sem- | blance of stiffness, provides the demi- | aison model, with the required degree of chic. | Worn with any of the wool velours, | velvet or corduroy coats, which resem- | ble motormen's coats in character and grizzly bears in the amount of fur trimming they sport, the new hats of brilliantly colared silk are the most de- Hghtful bita of graceful headgear fash- fon has sponsored for many a season. A delightful conceit just peeping into the merry whirl of the modes and de- signed to supplement the vogue for these hats is middy, blouselike bodices made of taffeta or faille in colors to match the hat, These newest pretiles in the line of | 3 dainty bunch of moss roses. waists are belted at the waist line with | soft folds of the material. made with sashes, but with hemstitched rather than tassel trimmed ends. Solid color and no contrasting shads, for trimming purposes cven, is the most pronounced characteristic. rigid rule to be observed when model- Ing these walists js to have them well below the hips in lenath, fairly well tightened at the waisi line and with | fong sleeves, fitting ciosely below the | ¢lbow, but bagging in leg-o’-mutton | simuiations above, if one chooses. | Latest modeis from Parls spell many | new ‘irns to the modes in mlllinery | which we will see turned to very good | account before Easter. | Tall thin women had better try on | thelr new hats before pier glassc: ~1th- er than to be fitted to a sma rdel | witting before a dressing table, . the | smartest shapes arc s church | steeples and quite as conspicuous | Some of the advance models are made of glace leather, rcpeating thg} fashions of yesteryeer. Suede is an- other greatly favored material used, | while satin and milan straw will be{ combined in a great variety of styles, which will captivate all fancies. Georgette crape, used so broadly last summer, will come in for even a great- er vogue next spring than it has ever enjoyed, and, as for hats or toques, made of malines or tulle, these with | delicate flower made brims will be one of the most insistent styles offered by | all milliners. | Ribbons are to be even more gen- | erally used this season than during the | autvmn. Where they have been re- | stricted to the usages of dress trim- | miks requirements this year the spring | | moire The | showing of smart millinery will show the most fascinating models imagina- ble, made of tiny narrow ribbons, stitched together so that an appear- ance not unlike that of straw is ob- tained. It is possible that long streamers of satin ribbons will make their appear- ance as one of the most pronounced vogues of the spring season. Palm Beach will be the mecca for all fashionables for the next three months, Fashions for spring will re- ceive the hallmark of approval there, when formerly they have been depend- ent upon decisions made at Nice and Mentone, Already American dressmakers and modistes are making great prepara- tions for the coming season and at a time when heretofore they were wont to take a very much needed rest. The first hat pictured is a soft, wide brim, a dainty novelty straw with a facing of flesh colored georgette crape. Pale blue velvet ribbon and a soft hued | velvet rose trim it charmingly. ! Designed for Palm Beach wear, the next hat is of white panama straw, its wide, floppy brim being faced with pale | pink broadcloth. Especially smart is| the simple arrangement of the moire ribbon with streamer ends, the tone matching the facing. Height marks the next model, a beautiful brimless hat of Joffre blue gaorgette crape with a band of matching grosgrain ribbon. On the tiptop of the crown is arranged | The next spring model is a brown chip straw with a flare of brown ribbon. This accentuation of height is decidedly smart if becomingly worn. The only color note is a crush- od velvet rose in front. The ‘ast hat is of cerise chip straw, he brim of which is faced with a matching tone of satin, a rose of this material nestling on the rolled back front. This is the kind of hat that is so smart to wear when you first dis- card your winter turban. | habitues. A Charming Frock For Mornings WITH no chance of a gay south- the | ern season in Europe, French dressmakers will not have their usual opportunity to try out experimental modes for the coming | spring. "Egypt and the Riviera of- fer no setting for fashion shows, even if women had the heart for preening their fine feathers in either place, and even Biarritz and Tan- gier, while out of the main path of | the storm, will miss most of their So once more Americans are the chief customers, and it is not likely that anything really new will be tried out for them before the regular spring openings. once dedicated to summer uses. To be sure, most of the winter frocks and suits are fur trimmed, but a touch of fur is permissible nowa- days even on summer frocks, and it is the modish coat that is lavishly | fur trimmed, many of the frocks showing but a very little fur or none at all. Substitute a little shoulder cape for your heavy coat, and there you are, equipped for warmer climes. It is e to find the shoulder cape or to have one made after a good design. The French drapers have played with the cape idea | very effectively, and one may have a cape in almost any lensth from had from the English mills, this due to the fact of the very slight demand ex- isting for it during recent seasons. Alpaca can be very well adapted to the development of tailored suits, trav- | | eling coats, street frocks and even to | certain of the sport costumes—such, | for example, as the bathing suit and Suits shown for southern winter resorts are mostly of white broad- that of Callot’s cape collar, which cloth, gaberdine and serge, which|lies flatly over the shoulders and J \ are to be used for daytime general wear, The skirt of such models may serve combined with a lingerie| blouse for sports wear. A bright colored silk sweater with a match- ing straw, silk or satin sports hat glves another costume suitat tor| daytime at the winter resor The white cloth or velvet dress is already seen, worn by speclalists in such sports, at the indoor skating rinks. The long fur or velvet coats cover them for the street. Many of the midwinter clothes are appropriate for wear in milder cli- mates, thanks to the present day fashion of winter wearing of chif- fon and taffeta and other materials curves up high and close about the throat, buttoning down the left side from ear to shoulder point, to Worth's gorgeous velvet and sable full length cape, passing Jenny's little elbow depth coat capes en route. Skirt bottoms in the fall were re- ported “slightly longer.” They are al- ways slightly longer as far as the wo- man of quiet taste is concerned, but even the slightly longer skirt is what, in the old days, we would have called short. The thing is practically neces- sary while skirts are full or flaring, for greater length spells awkwardness. White chiffon and georgette crape are now made into afternoon dance frocks. The dark touch of fur or the velvet ribbons which band these frocks oniy serve to bring out their filminess. The effect of the white touched up with black gives such a costume a Pierrot touch that is fetching. The bib effect, both on suits and dresses, is a new style feature that is decidedly becoming to most figures. It is generally of the same color as the garment. In some cases, as in a dark | brown, green broadcloth or linen, the bib part is of white pique or satin. From Paris comes the rumor that mohair or alpaca may have an in- | ning when the French dressmakers | show their spring collections in Febru- ary. One surmises that the reason for the revival of that old time lustrous and serviceable material is because there is a goodly amount of it to be the golf skirt. Alpaca or mohair is not With hand embroidered eglantine seem- susceptible of fussy trimming and, iNgly growing out of the belt. With therefore, it is likely that tailors will | this simple frock goes a straw turban give it a more welcome reception, de- | ent spite its general shiny unbecomingness | to the average woman. | For demiseason wear broadcloth and | taffeta are recommended for the dressy | costume or frock, and broadcloth and georgette crape are being used exten- sively. | White lingerie, silk or satin blouses for the coming season have, like many of the newest suits and dresses, a touch of neutral or dark color to set them off. The new blouses of white | satin, which seem to be a sort of ideal- | ized middy type, are quite possible for sports wear. They fit the figure loosely, allow the arms to be raised easily and are loosely belted. By way of atoning for abbreviation, in front or at sides or all around, the | evening frock may have a wisp of train | draped over it and trailing on the floor, and this train has almost as many va- | garies as the fashignable skirt hem. It may appear at the side or in the back, may be bustle draped or fall in soft jaboting folds, may be pointed, square, swallowtail, fishtail or serpentine; it may be of floating, cloudy tulle or of taffeta. A recent much exploited model has a train falling in rounded points at each side of the skirt, while between these trains in the back the underskirt runs up to a perilous height, and the front is not so very much better. | Even the wedding gowns at recent | fashionable weddings have been short- er than ever before, save in the matter | of train. A certain piquancy often re- | sults from the union of short, full dis- | tended skirt and train, but when a| clinging long line frock does appear | among things modish, as it does at times, one realizes, with a sigh, that the average woman looked better in her evening gowns flve years ago than she does now. As for the unlucky women below average—well, the less said about the scenic effect when they don the type of evening frock most common today the better. With this prophecy of suits and evening gowns we may pass on to the pretty gown for informal wear as here illustrated. Made of dainty handker- chief linen, with white net collar and deep cuffs, the bodice is picked out rely of crisp green foliage, while three pink roses sit jauntily atop. - Pinafores Return T has been a long time since it was the fashion for little schoolgirls to | wear pinafores of checked gingham. { These once popular aprons have served to inspire a pinafore frock seen the other day. Lightweight worsted materials of both plain and checked weaves were combined in the making of this ate tractive frock. The apron overdress of the blue and white checked material had shoulder straps and pockets in true apron fashion. The foundation | was of plain dark blue, with a chemi- sette and turned down collar of sheet white linen. The dress was smart and just as wel suited in design to a miss of six as t¢ the high echool girl of sixteen. REPE DE CHINE has proved tried and trusty friend and wiil by virtue of this trustworthiness be again the material most frequently selected for the blouse of new design. In flesh, pink, maize and the deeper yellows as; ofter as ths Jow, comfortable ones, well as white wlll the simpler blouse Je made, and not only in plain colors, but in stripes of all widths, from the pin stripe to the awning stripe, when one hardly knows whether the white is striped with a color or the color is striped with white. Then there are the wash taffetas as well as the newer wash satins. Both will be employed In white and stripes, the colors of which include green, yellow, purple, red, cerise and blue. Dressier models continuse to be fasth- joned of lace and the dainty sheer crapes that have made such charming blouses for the winter suit of cloth or velvet. Sports walsts are trequently fashion- ed with a wide belt so that they ¢an be donned over the sports skirt. Another novelty in the fashioning of the same waists is the mode of fastening, for they, as well as the dainty ninon frocks in pastel colors, are fastened down the back. Cotton waists have a touch of color in their trimming, and frequently do eotored stripes appear on the batiste blouse. a|long except in the dressy walsts of jused for jam making and preserves. lace and crape, and occasionally they boast the thrce-quarter sleeve or the elbow sleeve. Collars, too, are valu- able. High collars are seen quite as and it is predicted that the low col- lar will prevail. THE AVOCADO. ‘HE avocado, or “alligat pear, Is coming into favor. It is a green or purple fruit, not unlike an eggplant in appearance, and has a soft pulp and| a delicate, almost nutlike, flavor. The | avocado is eaten in a variety of ways,“ but principally as a salad. Cactus fruits, now happily spineless, may be The cactus, or “Indian fig,” 18 a staple food in Mexico and has much to com- mend it for more general use. CELERY SURPRISE. LIOST persons are familiar with cel- ery stuffed with cheese of differ- ent varieties. The following combina- tion will be found a novelty: Pound to a pulp four shallots, one branch of | parsley and a half bean of garlic. Mix ' in four ounce: of butter and a little lemon juice. ! e the resulting mix- ture through a fine sieve, lightly spread | it In tender celery stalks and serve on Slecves on the newest blouses are ice. AN ANAAAANANANNANANANNANNANANNANANNANANANAANNANANA ANNANANANANNNNANANAANNN T EARNING MONEY MAKING SILK RUGS ¢ R T TT THE doctor told a certain business man to stop everything for the summer and live the simple life in some very quiet place, so instead of going, as usual, to the shore or moun- tains he and his wife found a tiny cottage in a wood a short distance from a little village and thirty-five miles from the city. Here they settled for the summer. Their clothing was of the plainest. There was no need for anything elabo- rate, as their friends were all far away at fashionable summer places, so they had no visitors and did not even have 2 maid or cook with them. One day while walking in the village they stopped at one of the houses and found an old lady making a rag rug| which was very pretty. IEvery:house| in the village had several such rug: ! made by braiding strips of rags to- | gether and then sewing into various shapes, while some few were crochet- | ed, rags being used instead of cord or yarn. | The business man’s wife, having so much leisure, decided to make several rugs for her home, 50 she used the few | odds and ends of clothing that she did not need and made a rag rug. This was such a success that she decided to make a silk rug from discarded stockings. She discovered they had| left all their silken hose in the city, thinking silk would not be suitable for! | the strips wound into large, loose balls. country life, so she wrote jolly letters | to her many friends, asking them to send her their wornout stockings of | silk, either white or colored. Her | friends, thinking it a great joke, sent | her large parcels of stockings of all | colors. Many of the stockings were | white, so some of these she dyed; then they were sorted in piles according to | their color and were cut into strips about three-quarters of an inch wide. | By beginning at the top and cutting | around and around until the toe was| reached one stocking was converted | mto a single long strip. | The ends were sewed together and | If tightly wound the strips would have stretched, and this must be avoided, as it spoils the work if the strips are not | of a uniform width. Kach color was kept in a separate ball. While the man fished in a nearby | stream or was quietly resting in a hammock under the trees his wife w close by making rugs. She used a large wooden hook and the stitch known as single crochet The round rugs were made by com- mencing with a few chain stitches anl then working around and around with the single crochet, adding extra stitch- es when needed to keep the work flat | and free from puckers Oval rugs were made in the same | fashion, only in the beginning a num- | alternate rows of blue ana white, and la | pretty | save a great (¢ ber of chain stitches were used as a foundation, the number depending on the size of rug desired. She found the work very fascinating, and by the end of the summer they returned to their home in the city, both man and wife in perfect health. Their vacation had cost them very lit- tle, and, in addition to this, the wife had four beautiful silk rugs, admired by every one, and several envious peo- ple were anxious to buy them, but the maker refused to part with them. The one rug had a white center, with the edge for a depth of six inches wa deep blue. The largest rug was shaded from light yellow to orange and then brown at the edge. The oth- er two rugs were equally good looking. The wrong side of these rugs was as the right. as the work had been carefully done | As every family sooner or later has pile of wornout stockings, a rug s practically nothing except for the | e hook used for crocheting While silk stockings make the pret- tiest rugs, it is quite possible to use even the cheapest kind of stocking, only both kinds should not be u the same rug. Keep each ser e If you have a sewing machine you can amount of time if you use it to join the strips instead of do- ing it by hand. I cos lar, elghtéenth selves every answer to the question provides a curi- ous little footnote of histor: larity of form was displea Marie Antoinette, winter evening at Versaill form shape good taste | of the s |find a decree of Louis XVI, issu | the | an of Bourbon rule ed in rliards andi Fahéles V"HY is the modern pocket handker- chief square, or at least rectangu- whereas our ancestors of the century permitted them- variety of shape? The It chanced that the existing irregu- g to Queen who suggested one that a uni- would be an indication of searcher among the debris ime will accordingly ed in early < 1785, enacting that socket handkerchiefs should have ht angled edges henceforward. From Paris the new mode rapidly pread over Europe, but its origin was omehow overlonked by the revolution- obliterating all traces And so it is that the chief remains as ermanent achieve- The curiou ent re d. ries when busy handk one pocket V1's quare FASHION FOR BABY. A LL the babies ranxing from eighteen months to three years of age are wearing rompers in white cotton crape deliciously The | knees biue. the flowered short in legs pink end absurdly at tween them and the waist, which, of course, is not indicated. The sleeves, equally puffy, reach a trifle below the elbow, and the neck is rather Jlow rounded, but nowhere about thess practical garments is there a scrap of trimming. For afternoons all the bahy girls have perfectly plain apron frocks in small dotted white swiss muslin, and for seeing special visitors are similar frocks trimmed about the hem, the el- bows and the throat with narrow friil. ing, real lace edged. A few of our tiny neighbors are wearing full length coats, definitely shaped about the shoulders and under the arms and take ing on width from the hips down. JUST A HINT. J* the dainty crepe de chine bloyse shrinks a bit after its first laundéps and—as so many of these ready mad> blouses do—becomes just a trifie too scant to cross the bust, the edges at the front may be faced all the way down with similar material and the blouse worn, open, over a chemisette of organdie, Such chemisettes in qll manner of pretty styles come ready to slip under the bodice, and for the purs pose just described the best model {8 one which opens slightly at the throat, but has a smart upstanding collarémt the back, kept crisply in position by & ing nd are made with wide puffs be- i bit of stiffening.