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$00600090000300909900000009000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000 0000000000800000030I3TULIIVTIITT08000090000000000000000000000000 * THE LATEST WORD ABOUT NEW ®UR COATS FOR WOMEN NE finds many pelts used in their natural state for top- coats. This does not mean they are more attractive than hen they have passed through the ex- perienced hands of dyer and dresser; It merely indicates that, although furs are plentiful enough, the scarcity of dyes and dressers has made it almost imperative to use them au naturel. Most of the new muffs made of short haired furs are melon shaped, some are fashioned barrel shape, and all are much smaller than those of last year. and higher, while stoles are as broad as feminine shoulders can well carry them. All kinds of fox are popular, and beaver sets cut on the new lines are decidedly smart and soft tone going well with almost any modish suitins. - One of our illustrations is very elabo- rate in its effect, the upper part being draped in blouse fashion, giving a prin- cess front. Three huge seal covered buttons serve as fasteners. -Around the bottom of the long, rippling flare runs a band of skunk fur, which also fur- nishes the cuffs and high roll collar. This sumptuous coat, lined with a beautiful satin of rose and metal em- broidery and worn over a velvet skirt, also banded with skunk fur, gives a very handsome effect. The other three-quarter length coat is also seal, fashioned with a wide belt of fur. The flaring collar and the bot- tom of the skirt are banded with point- ed fox, which also affords the chunky muff, with its puffings at both ends. Especially effective is the sailor of black velvet brim and white, high crown dashed with the tip of a fox tail. It would seem that fur is going into flares and chokers, for collars are high Still another wrap not quite so elabo- useful, the | AAAARRAARA THE SEAL OF ALL LUXURY rate is the long Hudson seal trimmed with three bands of .narrow oppossum, which almost give the effect of three ruffles. The novelty of this coat is its detachable collar and cuffs. The melon shaped muff speaks the last word of smartness, as does the high pressed hat with its delectable rosette. Beauty of outline is the distinction of the other coat, banded with wide strips of beaver. Cuffs, collar and muff of the same fur give a very full im- pression of harmony and richness. The jaunty velvet hat that goes well with this wrap is trimmed flatly with os- trich feathers, which overfringe the brim. The luxurious wrap of moleskin is imported, designed by Cheruit. The blouse gives a surplice effect, while the trim walst line fits snugly above a very wide skirt that ripples and flares and checkerboards in the most inimitable manner. A detachable black fox collar hugs the throat snugly, while large patch pockets of moleskin give a very smart dash to the front. A trim turban with a stunning coque feather draping | gracefully sets the last smart touch to this beautiful garment. 0 P000000000000000000000000000000000060000008000080000¢ Dozens and dozens of perfectly good muffs and neckpieces in all probability will be ruthle: y cut up this winter to ke trimmings for new frocks anc leurs, for, whether or not one pos- S a set of furs, a fur trimmed | suit one must have, and sevc | trimmed frocks if possible. fairly mad over fur trimmings they are added wherever it is pc to sew a bit of fur bordering to No sort will come amiss, and it is the time of times to get out discarded muffs and tippets from their camphor wrappings and put them to good serv- ice in the interest of winter costumes. Long strips, cut from the best of the fur, will go on tunics and coat edges, and tiny scraps, sewed in strips, will make modish trimmings for collars, | sleeves and revers. The dark furs are favored particularly by Dame Fashion. Sable, seal and skunk are in special de- —that beautiful, fawn colored pelt—is having a vogue all its own. Lynx is black cloth and on evening gowns of black tulle or lace. Leopard and chip- munk, definitely marked as these furs are, will be used occasionally and when mand for border trimmings, and beaver | rightly used on tailored suits of dark green or| with collar used prove very smart in- deed. A tailored suit in the long waist- ed Russian style is of navy blue velvet, d cuffs of chipmunk. Broadcloth is a favored material for trimming with fur, and some of the new shades are delicious. Mohair and worsted rep have a texture and lust accord well with short hair , and, of course, velvet, fur tring | med, stands in a class by itself as winter combination of elegance i distinction. These fur trimmed suits aim at qul richness rather than at gay eccentricit; FOR HER WHO TRAVELS FAR » IF' the trip be long, especially in sec- tions where restaurant facilities are not found, the patent bottle is an in- dispensable article for the suit case. A beverage, hot or cold, can be placed n such a bottle and when desired )pened to add refreshment to an other- wise dry meal. Mothers with little Jaildren will appreciate the small al- ohol stoves. These are, in fact, noth- Ing more than a two inch can of the alcohol with a folding triangular wire grid, and a small collapsible pan is also included in the outfit, which can be packed into very small space. Such a stove may be carried into the rest room on boat or train and in two or three minutes will heat the milk for an infant or solid food for an older ehild. In the overnight trip nothing is more convenient for the homemaker’s per- sonal use than a combined kimono coat. This is preferably black or dark blue material of thin weight. A good model is one that can be worn as a service- able dust or traveling coat and also serves the most useful purpose of a gown for the dressing room in the train, so that the wearer is as incon- spicuous as possible. Flat sandals or traveling slippers can be purchased which fold up into their own separate case. A supply of col- lapsible paper cups should be included as a sanitary precaution and conven- ience. Fhper, too, has its uses abroad as wel! as at home, and for the one who must consider space and who yet wishes traveling comfort packages of specially prepared paper “sets” are most useful. These consist of several paper hand towels, paper squares for wiping off the | face or applying cold cream and even a | paper wash cloth. A supply of the thinnest paper nap- kins should also be tucked in. How | md¥ny times fruit is purchased en route and good handkerchiefs soiled with fruit stains when the fruit could be eaten on a paper napkin, the refuse folded in it and thrown away with it. 3% [nteresting Baby Clothes # THE mother with nimble fingers will enjoy making these miniature gar- ments for her toddler. They are fash- ioned of finest batiste, trimmed with val lace and not too much hand em- broidery, in forgetmenot pattern. The skirt hangs from the shoulders in true hygienic style and has a rather deep flounce scalloped, as are all edges. The neck of the gown has eyelets and baby ribbon to draw it up, just like a grownup nightle, A BLACK AND WHITE LUNCHEON OF course it is impossible to have all the food black and white, but the ingenious woman can think of many black and white combinations. An appetizer of caviar canapes can be served with a pure white cream soup—celery or chicken. Celery hearts and ripe olives and blocks of the in- side of the lcaf of bread can be served. A course of chicken or turkey breasts and rice, garnished with pickled wal- nuts—almost black—is good. A maca- roni entree might be served with some highly seasoned bit of food, such as a stuffed tomato, masked with a cover+ ing of white macaroni. It is difficult to serve a one color meal without los- ing in variety and flavor, so introduce some dishes like the stuffed tomato, which are of another color, but mask them, if possible, with something white or black. Salmon croquettes, with a covering of white sauce, and tiny white potato balls would form an admirable fish course, and the white sauce would conceal the pink of the salmon. For a salad the big Hamburg grapes, which look almost black in their deep purple at night, could be served on white lettuce hearts, with a white may- onnaise, or else celery hearts, stuffed with cream cheese and sliced, could form the salads. Pineapple sherbet or Roman punch is sufficiently white to pass muster, and for dessert there could be meringues, glaces or a char- lotte of some kind. Little cakes iced with a very dark chocolate icing and dotted with white candles to bring out the darkness, clear coffee, dates and raisins, with Brazil nuts in their black shells, could 2lso be served. Caviar Canapes. Cream Chicken Soup. Ripe Olives. Celery. Salmon Croquettes With White Sauce. White Potato Balls. Macaroni and Tomato Entree. Breast of Turkey. Rice and Pickled Walnuts. Roman Punch. Black Grape Salad. Wafers. Cream Cheese. Meringues, Glaces. HIS fan cover is an exceedingly fine specimen of point applique lace which the commission for relief in Bel- gium, 71 Broadway, New York city, has placed on exhibition and sale, along with $200,000 worth of thirty other dif- ferent kinds of laces, for the benefit of the 40,000 lace workers, women and girls, who were forced into idleness and Point Applique Fam Cover want by the outbreak of war. This cover is valued at $98, but one may find fascinating edgings, torchon and valen- ciennes, bruges baby caps and beautiful kerchlefs at very reasonable prices. Each piece is officially numbered, so that the worker gets her percentage of the sales. This is a rare opportunity for American women to buy heirlooms. WHETHER a woman takes a brisk fall walk for exercise, for health, for refreshment or in search of beauty, she should be wise enough not to go to the point of exhaustion before turning back. Many women forget there is as much distance to be traversed upon the return as there was from the begin- ning. A walk which taxes strength to the utmost is not a beauty giver, but indeed makes for pallor and drawn lines for several days after the event. A short walk to begin with, gradually increasing the distance, is the part of wisdom. One should remember that the idea is to increase rather than to decrease power. Exercise to the point of fatigue and beyond it breaks down tissue, and that is why it is helpful when one wishes to lose flesh. Dates and Raisins. Black Coffee. The frail girl should not undertake the task of her more sturdy sister. The ¥ The Walk That Refireshes sk thin one can sometimes walk farther and with less fatigue than her heavier prototype, but she may become thinner by the process. Each must be her own counselor in this matter and walk just that distance which seems best suited to the personal needs. As a preliminary to such a walk the face would best be cleansed with some pure cream, which is rubbed on lightly and then removed, a coat of powder also being put on and dusted off. Such treatment acts as a protection against wind and dust and sunburn. Return- all the dirt. If used properly and re- moved carefully the skin will feel de- lightfully soft and clean, and a slight dust of powder will remove every touch ing, the cleansing cream should again |these groups. be used, not only once, but twice if the | riety of comestible which doesn't make first anointing does not seem to remove |a :nomomom 3 How to Have a ii Good Complexion p = {"THE deadliest foe to a good com: plexion is fried food. One of t |reasons that native English and Iri |girls have such wonderful complex: [fons is that fried food is little w One of the principal reasons why #9 many southern girls who otherwi might be beauties have such sallo} complexions is because they eat a grea deal of fried chicken, fried “hog meat,” fried corn fritters and all the rest of i Whether one likes fried fare or mot, it's a sure thing that a diet of it will spoil one's looks, Food is of value to the body in pre- portion to its digestibility. A food that is readily digested is quickly turned into good red blood, and good red blood brings red cheeks. The highland lassie—the kind that Harry Lauder says he loves—gets her peach bloom complexion from oatmeal, And oatmeal is perhaps the most easily digested food on earth. A breakfast of oatmeal porridge and milk will be di- gested in twenty-five minutes, a break= fast of fried ham and fried potatoes im about three to four hours What, then, is the trouble with fried foods? It is the grease. When any- thing is fried the grease makes a coat- ing around it, like a piece of armor plate, and if once you try to figure out all the chemical changes that have to happen to that layer of fat before the digestive acids have a chance to get into the food that is inside it you will see why it fails to make blood, There are foods that make muscle, and foods that make blood, and foods that make fatty tissue. It's very largely a matter of choice which line of devel- opment one prefers Fried food, however, remains outside It's an armor plated va- anything. In the effort to absorb it a large amount of bile is produced, and the typleally yellowish complexion of the bilious person is the result. Neither man nor woman can eat fried food and of oiliness, have a good complexion,