New Britain Herald Newspaper, May 7, 1915, Page 15

HE ddys 6f bathing and pagds | dling and rowing are soon to +bé with us. Crowds of vaga- K ists will ‘hie themselves to seaside or mountain resorts, there to * Indulge in the sports which will be en- 10[“ all the more because of the stfenucusness of the past year. Poverty, love and war some one has said are the great triumvirate which in- itiatés us into the inner shrine of life. ‘Wareds raging over half the.world. ‘Poverty i8 the immediate result, but let us hope that loye for one's fellow will bé the ultimate and thus the whole world be initiated into the " inner “shrine. While we strive for this fdeal conai- e tion ‘our hours of relaxation will be held dear, Nothing contributes so ma- terially toward the enjoyment of the vacation as suitable clothing, Pictured here will be found costumes suitable for bathing, rowing and paddling. Simplicity is the keynote of this black nocturn satin costume in the left of the picture. The girdle is of dotted plain material. Satin is also uséd in the suit shown in the center, and faille silk in roman stripes is used as a trimming, giving a bolero effect which s smart and-pretty. Sgrge, however, will be liked by some who agpe’ conservative in their tastes. The gown on the right is of this ma- terlal, With a trimming of red satin. How't’o‘jl\fiike a Crochet Collar THIS very effective collar has the ap- pearance. of braid work in combina- tion' with crochét, although the entire article is crochet. Materials—Crochet cotton No. 30 and a No. 5% steel crochet hook. X The braid, which forms the edge and zigzag pattern in collar, is crochet, so work 4 yards of chain; then turn, miss the. first stitch’ and work 1 d ¢ intor every stitch, i .. When the braid is' worked ft cdan be arranged in any design preferred and must be tacked on to firm brown pa- per or glazed linén, etc. For the square motif commence with 10 ch and join into a ring by slip stitch- ing to end chain. 2 First Round—20 4 c into ring. Sec- ond Round—* § ch, 1 d c intdiist d c, taking up both threads, rep from * all round. Third Round—Slip Stitch to center of 1st loop of 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 tr into this loop, -2 tr into every,loop of ch, slip stitch to top of 3 ch first made.' Fourth Round— *.10 ch, miss4 tr, 1dc into next, repeat from * all round, mak- ing 8 loops. Fifth Round—* 12 d & into next loop, 6 d ¢ into next loop, 10 eh, turn, 1 4 c into 7th @ ¢ of 1st loop, turn, 6 d c into loop of 10 ch, 5 ch, 6 d ¢ into same loop, ¢ d ¢ to finish the halt filled loop and repeat from ¢ all round. Fasten off. Work a second motif in same mamner. & . Make the smaller motif in same man- ner, leaving 5 loops of ch in the 2d row, unworked and, in 3d row work only 30 tr and work round the three sides, §§ desderibed for large motif. Make - four, more small’ motifs. i § Take a pattern of a round collar in stiff paper or glazed linen, measuring 15 fnches round neck, 26 inches at out- side edge and 3 inches deep and®ack ‘the motifs to it. Any shape collar could Be used and the ¢rochet arranged in many ways. Arrange the two firsa ‘shotifs 4t back 3 igches from' er, right side downward for all motifs and biraid, place one of the smgill m t exuct center of back, against’ edge, the 5 loops of ch'toward edge, the center point upward. < - M o5 Place one small motif at each end of collar at center of the 1oops of 5 ch, % anch from edge angd the rémaining two motirs at neck - midway betweén -thé eud, and the sq1 if, the loops | % a}cn %3 inch from the neck edge, the & nt downivard. : Tuke praid of double crochet and i 1 down_front and, along outside sedge until level with the Center point of the ‘first small motif, loop the brdld up to touch the center loop of :mgtif, then along edge about % inch, zigzag to touch side of next mo- tif, down ‘to edge again, thep along edge 2% inches, zlgzag again up to neck edge, raiind and.down to outside edge again dnd alonig for 2 inches, loop up an inch, along;edge 1 inch and cur} round, making “-I:? loops 3% inch apért, carry along edge % of an inch, zig: ‘mpward to neck and bend'rou o touch cefiter, :motif between ‘the.Jioints at 1étt side,.cdrry hack to edge andtake along to'cefiter of:back, hére make tywo logps % mupn touchifig the igops of 5 ch 2 and *eontinue’ t! other side.in sameé manneg, bending th loops in opposits direction to form, sec- first. ~ /s : Hill ih-the background with a needl® and cottbn, working in twist stitch to connect*all sections. s . Bégin*’by. Insérting the needle into edge of the braid at the left front neck portion, bring out the thread and *. dle into the 10op and draw :fhe thread through twice, pulling the loop into shape.- It should form nearly a semi- ‘circle.. Repeat from * until the motif s reached; then turn back and twist the thread around the loop f e g A CROCHETED COLLAR. ond, side “of collsr to correspond’with | form a leop by inserting the -needle: again under the edge about. % of an| inch from the first stitch, plt the nee- | By the little toucnes on these bathing costumés the fact is advertised that they are of French design, To go into this matter of the French “touch” ‘furlher, have you ever seen a number |of French models, really seen them | close enough to examine all the little details that express the indiyiduality of the designers? The models sent over this year are particularly charming and not as ec- centric as are those developed here in America from the Frerich models. The imported models bear inspection, and one wonders, especially if one is an American, at the time expended in de- signing and execution. For instance, a Drecoll gown carrying out the moyen age lines in black chiffon veiled a tight bodice of rose and gold brocade. The high- collar of chiffon, which buttoned up to the chin, had pointed turnovers the thread is single, forming a bar into an adjacent line in the design where convenient and always twisting the thread around the single threads twice. When one piece of filling is finished fasten the thread and cut it, making all fastenings on the side turned toward you, which will be the wrong side when the work is finished. Proceed in this way until all the linés and motifs are joined; then cut the tacking threads on the back of the paper. Pick out the loose tacking threads and with the crochet hook work sthe edging, com- mencihg at the t?p edge of the left ' o front with * 1 4 ¢ into eath of the first 5 d ¢ on the braid, 5 ch, turn, 1 d c into the second a c, turn, into the loop put 3.de h, 3 dc 14d cinto each of next two stitches on edge, 5 ch, 1 d ¢ into same d c as last d c; repeat from * all round the €ollar. THE SEARCH FOR BEAUTY. UTIleING the face mask as a means of ‘beautifying the complexion has been in vogué for many years. Henry III. of France was vain enough to af- fect it in order to keep his skin fair. The face mask, again, was a part of the eauty treatment that Marguerite ‘dé Valois followed. and the celebrated Romian Empress Poppaea was another Fof its votaries. It was smeared inside with a beauty giving cream and worn at night. Not every woman, however, cares to sleep in a mask. Nevertheless it is'a much pleasanter cure than that adopted by Cleopatra, who bleached her skin by applying to her’cheeks slices of raw meat. NEW TKEH.! has come over the designers a strong desire to copy old pictures. Evidence of this fact has been offered to the reporters of dress for the last three months, Of course the copying of epochal fashions has been the mainstay of great and small designers througheut the history of dress, barring the Tana- gra period. But today this disposition is interesting because the family album has evidently been taken for inspira- tion. ‘With our modern ideas of artistic ef- fect in dress we shall have to work hard to convert the daguerreotype frock into something graceful, but we have shown so much adaptability in diverting old styles to new uses that no one has any doubt as to the Amer- icanizing of any product. Every’designer. is trying a hand at repeating the fashions of 1870 and earlier in some form or other. The main idea filters through his or her individuality and comes out in afi at- tractive shape. Whether or not this gracefulness will last under the in- fluence of an epoch that was noted for its ugliness is for Yime to prove. No prophet is great enough te forecast that end. The pendulum has swung always |from prudery to license in fashion as in morals, government, art and litera- ture. We have just passed through a period that needs no description, a yeriod when everything was challenged, including one's dearest beliefs, but’dur- ing that time much that was beautiful | was rebern, and thereby women were |assisted In their artistic education. According to historical experience we are due for a recrudescence of prudery not only in dress, but in finance, in morals, in beijefs. It is foollsh to say BECOMING . of taffeta, edged with the tinfest gold cord. The petticoat of this gown, for many of the new models have separate | petticoats or a sham ruffle imitating a petticoat, was fashioned of bright green, accordion plaiced, hemstitched chiffon. One -other black gown had a false ruffle petticoat of black tulle, edged with geld braid. The bodice of this gown had a double row of small gold braid buttons. Made by hand, these buttons varied in size, but it is just such touches that make French gowns distinctive. To the lingerie accessories do the French love to put wonderful little stitches and beautiful finishing touches. On long sleeves the cuffs fastening with |PRIZE OFFERED FOR“POLLYMURIEL” IDEA| HE new styles in skirts are not without their compensations. From Fifth avenue to the Battery and from New York to San Francisco a wail went up when the edict spread that full gkirts had come to stay and that to be seen in the old fashioned “um- brella case” would be almost a crime. “What shall I do with my last year's suit? It is perfectly good, but it can't possibly be made full,” was the cry heard on all sides. But now the women are going to have ‘& ‘chance’ to make themselves immor- tal. W&i‘»vm hard times have become {foo mueh 'at last, and the new idea which 4s tapidly gaining in fashion ®ircigs is that of a “pollymuriel.” It is a garment meant to be worn on all oc- casions and by all sorts of women—a universal garment, so to speak. Efforts to set a style in this direction have failed many times, for what style is there that éan be worh by‘every one? “QOf gcourse,” ‘gaid one wofhan recent- ly, “the men wear clothes cut by the same pattern, but they do look silly, and how would an afternoon tea look if all the women wore.tuxedos?” There are some women, schiefly law- yers and doctors, who have a leaning toward feminine tuxedos, and to please them a somber, straight, dark blue ef- fect was evolved, This was all right for the office workers, but it didn’t ap- peal to others, and the designers start- ed all over again, this time seeking ‘a sweet, girlish costume. The debutantes were delighted, but a chill fell when the older women confabhbed. Rosebuds and frills might be all right for the butterflies of fashion, but they wouldn't g0 with a thirty-two waist measure. Again the “pollymuriel” was essayed, but this time protests came in from all walks of life, and the designers gave up in despair, It was decided that the only thing to do was to start a “polly- muriel” contest, open to all, in the hope of finding a universal garment, useful, vet beautiful, which would greet the eyes of men in their offices, their homes, the ballrooms and even in the subways. The contest is open till June 30, and a prize of $160 will be gwarded for the best design. To quote the words of the “pollymuriel” comimittee: “The ‘poliymuriel is ‘a universal gown for women to be worn at social and formal gatherings. It is a gown | that is to be proper on all occasions. | Tt is to be built on formal lines, offers | ing opportunities for conyertible, pleas- ing effects. It will undergo no season: al or yearly changes.” The “pollymuriel* may be worn in Alaska or Florida. The little girl will don a “pollymuriel” when she gets out of her baby clothes and wear it grace- fully through life. No longer will she worry when spring comes or'dread the approach ‘of winter. Will the “polly- muriel” hat come in? - If arny one has an idea on that score it should be com- municated to the “pollymuriel” commit- tee, 528 Riverside drive, New York city. THE BLUSHI Carrot Glaze. PEEL carrots and cut in thin slices. Boil in salted water until tender. Drain and put in a well buttered bak- ing dish, with a tablespoonful each of butter and sugar, half a cupful of stock and salt and pepper to taste, Bake un- til the carrots are a delicate brown. Carrot Rel E : Peel carrots and slice thin; Cook slowly until tender. Drain, add one onjon sliced thin, two bay leaves, one teaspoontul of celery seed and vinegar enough to cover. Stand at least twen- ty-four hours before serving. This is a good relish to serve with cold meats: NG CARROT fuls of cream and two eggs well beat- en. - Make into little cakes. Stand on ice until hard and fry ig deep fat to a golden brown. Serve withtomato sauce. Southern Carrots. Clean carrots and cook in boiling wa- ter uritil tender, Make a sauce by cook- ing together two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, adding two cupfuls of chicken stock and cooking until thick, stirring constantly. Take from the fire and add the yolks of two eggs, beaten well. Season with salt and pep- per and pour over the carrots. Lyonnaise Carrots. Cut boiled carpes’ into dic Carrot : Fritters. ! Roil carrots until tender and press | throush a sieve. Add two tablespoon- | n butter with##o onions chopped firie. Season with #.t and pepper, sprinkle with chopv’n‘ varsley aund serve, 7/ / that we have discarded too much that Wwas supposed to be fundamental ever to take it up again. What has been can always be again. Old fashioned silks, =tiff taffetas, sprigged muslins, grenadines, failles, bands of black velvets, flounces with & gathered beading, scallops, basques fastened in the front, demure bows of black ribbon attached with cameo brooches, black slippers with white stockings, all indicate the tremd of the new Paris faghions, which mean that we ourselves will take up these things later. If this is what we are going to wear, these old wartime frocks in mew war- time days, why not get out the family album and copy the clothes of those gay, grave women who did their duty through our own great war? COLORED BLOUSES. OLORED handkerchief linen blouses are shown again this year. You remember last year they were intro- duced for country wear. They are still on . tailored linens, frequently - with pockets. They have long sleeves, and sometimes the fronts aré scalloped. small snaps or hooks and eyes are fin- ished with lingerie buttons and simu- lated buttonholes. Picot edge shaped pieces of colored handkerchief Il are daintily applied. -~ The turn portion will have threés tiny hand run cords. Handkerchief linen in colors used on cloth’ suits and the )l:m. walists worn beneath the coat the suit. For instance, a blue cloth suilt had a piece of handkerchief linen in an Alice blue shade added to the collar, The white chiffon waist was also trim- med with the blue linen. Another gown cuffs of white linen, and these, mind you, on @ gown of chiffon and silk. ERECT FIGURE NOW STYLISH. THE fashionable girl of 1915 appears on the scene with a beautiful, erect figure, a free swing to her walk and with clothing of sufficient width to permit her to be graceful in her car- riage. The stooped shoulders, with head bent forward and slouching gait, once assumed by those who wanted to attain the extreme in styles, have en- tirely passed and, like an old fashioned. dress of several seasons ago, will be discarded by those who care enough for fashion to change' their manner of caf- rying themselves. FOR THE SMALL GIRL SMART little coat of checked blue and white cloth is shown here, It is cut very plainly in sack fashion, but Pe the addition of a belt across the back ; from which a white silk sash is draped across the front gives it a dressy effect which embroidered pique cuffs and col~ lar further enhance, | fot » P THE S of sheer skirt ac with insets ruffles of val sash and a blue tribute .the t . tume, with stockings and Liad stiffened and bebuttoned collar and | JE are w losing disuse of our human beings do of scent develo ed for hunting age animal, the beens very turies tl to T m:n unclean] IIM ords of the ancient. cate ' scents were stood, and the n about the same as t] church ceremontals Not only did the Egyptians and ot delicious body Tul chewed scented gumi breath as well. cr back Arabian 3 and sweethearts, an of which was musk, nese had used for cents The modern woman | extensively in perfume soms If she uses it at & cate as to be a mere.| grade that will not heavy after eontact tentimes she obtains by secreting her favo lingerie drawer, in among her furs or by her hair, which is, the first places to due to perspiration & lation. Of Iate, for the first the dressing table ed by all sorts of rare ing tollet waters and bottles being the result the sculptor's art in reltef and engra These are quaint little % ooy all cases of years of age