Evening Star Newspaper, July 24, 1932, Page 33

wHE StaDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. ¢, JULY 24 1932—PART THREE. 9 Lingerie for Warm Weather | Smart Parisians Wearing Frocks In Navy and White BY SYLVESTRE DORIAN. Director of the Patis Fashion Service. The writers of the Paris Fashion | Service, who rotatc as contributors | 1o this sertes of articles, are the fol- | lowing men and women: Agnes, Bou- lenger, Chantal, Champcommunal, Cheruit, Dzeuillet, Doucet, Drecoll, | Jenny, Lanvin, Lelong. Martial ct Armand, Molyneux, Patou, Premet, | Redfern. Martha Regnier, Jane Regny and Wormser. PARIS, July 16 ITHIN a stone's throw from Paris and accessible by all modes of locomotion, is the ever-green expanse of woods | called the Bois de Boulogne. | turesquely dotted with lakes, broad D ehues for motoring, secluded paths for ecthearts to keep their ren- dezvous in, bridle paths and lunching, dming and dancing establishments. | There are cances, row ts and gaso- rustic launches to be hired on the lakes, rustic gpots a-plenty for the picnicing and the romplete freedom associated with country life. Right now, if you want to get the best and most vivid glimpse of that Parisian smartness you have been hear- ing so mueh about all your life, there is no place where you Will be so cer- {himy And abundantly rewarded as here | in the Bois de Boulogne. That is. for | luncheon. The fashionable world is | elsewhere for tea. cocktails, dinner and | super. | The fashion element in France is ver leng at one place, and it is a | at mistake to sume you will run ol ally into this smart colony just as soon as you get out of the boat-train at the Gare Saint Lazare It is not to be met with in the streets | at all. You can get a faint suggestion of it. perhaps, by looking at the big motor cars as they go by: but you will see only a shoulder. a hat, or the side of a face, and this is far from being the whole picture that you would see if you knew where to go to mingle with this life and observe it from the advan- | tageous point of observation that is only enjoyed by those who share that life for the time being i P | FHE fashion face of France is ex-| actly like a timepiece on Which | are two dials, one for hours and one for minutes. There are two fashion movements: those that move boldly from city to city, like clock hands, and | those that remain in Paris and move htly but with the scientific preci- ) and effectiveness. They are both ving all the time. but vou must know something of their workings if you| tch them at a given place, sure to arrive just too soon or iust too late Those that I am comparing to the hour hands go from Paris to Deauville, to Trouville. to Biarritz. to Juan-les- Pins. to Aix-les-Bains, to Vichy! to the Lido in Vanice, to St. Moritz. to Chamonix, to Beuil. to Monte Carlo. to Rovat. to La Bourboule, to Chatel Guvon and back to Paris Those who must remain in Paris tr h preference or necessitv—and there are plenty of fashionable and rich people who would not leave Paris for a week for all the gold in the from one place to another e way. They look at the as_the others look at the know instinctively where find each other. There is a time for the Ritz, for the Bois. for the bars, for the Boeuf Sur Le Toit, for Ciro's, for the Opera. for the races, for certain boites de nuit at Montmartre and m t now it is the grand_moment unching at the Bois de Boulogne. and that is where you will run into the other fashionables who are in Paris. It is here that up-to-the-minute models give you an accurate idea of typical Parisian clothes. JOLID white dresses and ensembles L) are often seen. while navy and white remain the featured preference. these g uniied in all manner of materials from novelty wool to finest silk. Black is already seen oftener than last Spring, indicating a revived vogue for it next Winter. trimmed in wh Heavy crepes. 100, continue to grow in popularity, but the woolen mani- facturers. certain couturiers assure me. king such mearveious rnew sics that these will surely take place in the Autumn mode. as are too suitable and beautiful to r An employe of Patou’s tells me ir strict confidence that this house will show many navy blue models in its Autumn collection. and that these have already been begun so that there is no doubt about navy holding its own throughout the vear. —Other houses are ordering very dark green woolens for Autumn use, while m black and mome red have already - rdacred from the manufacturers of woolens. (Copyr 1932.) Protection of Skin In Outdoor Events AVING, during the former seasons, paid the penalty of her devotion to the great outdoros. the sportswoman this vear will know better than to venture out without prot>cting her com- plexion. She forsake does mot. of her rough bt the sun. she intend to ca! pe fiagrant reminders of her intimacy wi them. A gvpsy fan n b2 becoming to some women. A leathery skin is becoming to no one The problem confron Jetic woman this Summer will be marily, how to protect her skin sun and wind. how to kecp from burn- ing and tanning uncomfortably and un- becomingly, and also, what muke-up to choose for her sports outfits, On the beach, of course. she will wear the gay paiamas ppy wide- brimmed hats, but ter <he nust forsake their protection. Her he has used a sun- lor her powder left a an un- P day of ordinary Summ This rule applies whether onc <ing a walk. sitting on the seashore, or “iding in_an open car T the beauty oman are best the use of sun tan of’s. protective creams and make-up lotions. The latter will protect the skin and make exquisite powder foundations. Relieve Eye Strain From Glaring Sun problems of the solved through KEEPING your eye on a tennis ball, or gazing across the fair on a golf course. with the sun glaring into Your eyes, is very tiring, and eye strain means the beginning of those tiny lines which do not always denote age Herbal packs cut in the shape of | are very beneficial in re- ve strain and headache due to iaring sun. These should be | moistened in water and placed over| the eves. It is a good idea to use the | eve packs while lying on the beach Here one has the full benefit of the soothing herbal packs and protection from the sun, as well as general re- laxation, ail at the same time. Summer fs a_health improver. but | unless care is taken, it is most ruinous | for the complexion. The woman who goes without g hat, and does not pro- | tect her complexion, i storing up ;ui Gorts of trouble for next Winter, J The tailored slip is made of pink flat crepe and has loose panels both back and front. The bias<ut silk slip in the center has a reinforced top and is edged with lace. with a bodice top of chiffon elastic and a double pnel in the back. Molyneux Explains Features In white or tearose pink. Next fo it is a white flat crepe slip Of Current Style Tendencies HE et ceteras of dresc.” stated Capt. Molyneux in the course of a long conversation on the Mode, “now demand greater attention than ever before.” is the keynote of his latest in_general. which ¥ i and this views on fashions do not differ drasticallv from the opinions he has held all along. for here is perhaps the most conservaiive mind in the Couture. His feet are always on the ground, and he has never yet, in all the years his reputation has been in the front ranks of Paris dresmaking industry. been associated with fads or eccentricities in any form whatsoever. “I consider the scarf.” he goes on. “more important than the dress. The right gloves, the right angle and color and polish of the nails, the right shoes, 211 these et ceteras are what make the right ensemble, and my idea of the secret of smartness is summed up in rightness and infinite carefulness. First of all a woman must be dresscd unobtrusively for the occasion— this appropriateness to surroundings is the first element. Second ccmes the element of what the French I soigne’—which can perhaps best be rex dered in English by infinite carefulne “When we in French of a woman that she is ‘soigne,’ it carries with it an of an impeccable, maculate. ltless _ensemble. You know that to the delicate tips of her feet and hands everything has been done to give a finishing touch to her elegance. She will use not only the right perfume, but in the right quantity; she will wear the precisely right ring or bracelet. knowing that jewels are vitally important—that she must never be overjeweled, one of the cardinal sins of dress. * x % x ¢« ER,_ make-up. her coiffure. entire_toilette will have no pains. Time and energy will have gone unregretted the best and the most into this enterprise, of each being none too good. For the technique of fanltless dressing is quite as real a mat- as the technique of painting or writing poetry, and the women of Paris who enjoy such enviable reputations in this field have bought their wav to fame by hard work and infinite care and pains and patience. The des to be smart must be there, of course, just as the poet must have. first of all the desire to express himself beautifully in_words or the painter to express him- self beautifully in colors. women are made and not born, just as ts and painters are made and not born into the world gushing with fine language and wielding a magic brush. “The woman who becomes an author- ity for smartness in dress passes years of observation of the minutest details everywhere she goes, and every mo- her ment. mood and manner of women fre- | quenting fashionable places is grist to Ler mill. Later she uses all this ex- perience in evolving her own ‘genre.’ which means her own highly personal and individual mod= of dress. by which everything she wears IS identified with her very own personality. ‘I you make a mental note of what struck you as right end what didn't vou will fnstinctively develop your own But chic | ideas about dressing, and & technique ail_vour own will follow. Once this point has been attained. you will not longer find it a hardship to hit on the right things. You will be in possession of a facility of expression comparabie to that of artists in other branches when they have undergone their thor- cugh apprenticeship and become mas- ters of their art. % % % HI\IY own inspiration comes to me, not in my workrooms, as you may imagine. but from closely observing women outside: in the Bois de Boulogne. at the Ritz in Paris. on the sunlit terraces of Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo. the smart centers at Deauville and Biarritz, where women are actively taking part in the fashionable goings- on for which beautiful desses are made. I try to arrive early for these func- tion, whether it is a gala soiree at the Opera, or a colorful premiere at one of the Paris theaters, or any one of hundreds of other events attended by the beau monde; and I remain late, it is necessary for me to study moment in these women's lives. e catches a foot in the long hem of an evening dress. it is for me to note down and avoid such skirts in my next collection. or by fome dexterous ick make a skirt that will get around dificulty. If a woman makes any strainod movement. it is for me to see wh* and try to solve her problem. Dressmaking is hard work. It s another medium through which all the hard realities cf life are faced. and those wha think it Is child’s play or plain fun and easy as rolling off a log ere tremendously in error. But this work may be a joy for those who like it. * o x ¢THERE is no law to lay down about whet you mav and may not wear this scason or next. The slim line rcmains desirabe and shows no tendency to become less so. But lines must be adapted to the figure of each woman. What is becoming to one is often rot becoming at all to another. There are certain formulas of line that must be worked out individually just as certain make-up problems must be worked out for each woman. Women must_experiment with the various ones | and then decide which sults best. It | would be just as reasonable to set down | a law whereby all women should have | bair dressed identically, as to decree | that they should all wear dresses cut to the same line. “All colors are fashionable, provid- | ing they become you, and so are all| |lengths of skirts and all materials. I| saw @ young woman the other dav | wearing a short coat that had been | made out of an old Paisley shawl: it | may be the only one in Paris and hence not an established mode, but it was superlatively smart on the woman who | wore it. whereas it might not have been smart at all on another. “Appropriateness and rightness and carefulness are the principles I wouid emphasize. And thgse are to be ex- pressed much more effectively through the scarfs. bags. shoes. gloves. jewel in shert. through all the et ceteras of drvess rather than through the frock itself.” (Copyright, 1922 Straight Talks to Women About Money e Looking Up References. N subletting your apartment. giving work out, or doing a dozen Other things, u may find it desirable, even necessary. to ask for refer- ences. If that is the case. go about it practically. Sentiment, prejudice and all other personal feelings should be Jeft in the background. Have faith in humen nature, but check up vour faith when circumstences warrant it. In s~eking references to establish financial responsibility or honesty, avoid social references of any sort. Refer- ences from a minister or religious leader of any creed may be charitable rather than exact. Friends are never loath to give references. They are usually glad to render a service which costs them nothing, but which may cost you a lot. Seek references from people who have employed the person being “looked up.” or firms or institutions which have had business relations with her. These rela- tions may have been those of employer to employe, lender to borrower, and so forth, If there is to be any considerable risk at all involved, check up through your bank sibifity. This should include a state- ment of means. The most honest per- son cannot pay what she does not have. Means count for as much &s honest reputation or intention. The manner in which one pays one's n the prospect’s financial respon- | BY MARY ELIZABETH ALLEN. 1 bills is usually & fair indication of hon- | esty. Check this up wherever and | whenever possible. Local tradesmen will | give favorable references when possible. | Local credit bureaus may sometimes be | consulted for a nominal fee well worth the money | " In instances where considerable prop. erty is to be intrusted to one it is cus- tomary to waive references and require a bond instead. In that sort of a case the bonding company makes a thorcugh | investigation. | People of honest, straightforward reputations are not reticent about them, | nor do they seek to conceal any facts |or color them favorably. It is justifi- able to regard any one with suspicion ]who either refuses to reveal informa- Iuon or attempts to avert inquiry. When checking up references, assume | | nothing for granted. Use all references | given. If they seem fictitious investigate | personally. It is often necessary to seek | references in person anyway, and usually more _satisfactory because strangers, even friends. will relate facts orally which they would prefer not to tell by | | "phone or in a letter. Printed Stockings. | ND now there are printed stockings. { Some of them sre printed to look { like mesh. and some are printefl with a | line of big coin dots up the outsides. 'Make-Up Pt;;blexns In Summer Season| "THE matter of make-up is always & question of coloring, that is, of | clothes and the individual complexion But speaking generally, the cally-lily complexion or the pale, wan look of fiower drooping in the shade, is out of place for the sportswoman. Warmth, | alertness, vibrant vitality—these are the effects to be aimed at | Ochre and tan powders no longer are fashionable, although there always wiil > & smail number of women of exotic type who will adhere to them for rea- sore of personal preference. There is a wide range of attractive shades and blends of powder, among them apricot_and a shade called radiant which lend the skin the rich. velvety glow of fruit ripening in sunlight Cream and liquid rouges are best for Summer use, because they are moisture proof. and, for the same reason indeli-! ble lipsticks should be used. Subdued, natural effects are most in harmony with sports outfits, therefore medium shades of rouge are preferable. The open air movement and sunlight all combine to bring out one’s natural | coloring. and a too vivid make-up re- sults in giving the effect of an un becoming flush at the end of the day Your Home and You BY BETSY CALLISTER. I No two women. probably, are quite | alike when it comes to the thing that | tires them most quickly. One thing tires me, another tires you. | There is, for instance, Jane, who| says she would rather do anything) than ever again open a window in| her kitchen. It's a most delightful| kitchen, too, with lots of windows. | “But,” savs Janc. “they all stick.’ Jane' should never struggle with the windows when they stick. Sometimes she might make them move easily if 3§ she snapped the cords, both sides, that regulate their raising. If they per- sistently stick she should get a car- penter to look after them—there is| something wrong with them. They may need just a little attention—per- haps a little planing at some point where they don’t move freely. Another housewife declares _that opening cans is her hardest job. That's all because she hasn't a convenient can opener. Some women like one kind best, some another. Some place there is a can opener everybody will find convenient Usually it is these inconveniencesd| that tire us out. And every evening when you feel unduly tired you should sit down and decide just what part of the work has tired you. It is, 89 times out of 100. something that a little attention could remedy—like the sticking windows or the balky can openers Then there are unnecessary fatigues caused by the unwillingness to take pains. We reach on high shelves, and strain ourselves sometimes to point of injury, when we could easily get what we want if we would only get the step- ladder. We bend in a most uncomfort- able position to weed the flower bor- ders, when we could do the work quite casily if we would only get some sort of cushion or mat to kneel on. It's worth finding out what it is that tires us, and then trying to have the matter adjusted This week’s household help tells how to prepare some delicious des- serts with a minimum of trouble— ice box desserts. You know about them? You just mix some things together, put the result in the refrig- | erator, and that does the rest of the | work, 'in turning out the most tempt- | ing things imaginable. If you would like our recipes, send your stamped, | self-addressed _envelope to Betsy Cal- | lister, care of this paper, and they | will be sent to you. e Summer Types. ’LONG gloves appear to have left us— in fact, gloves of any sort are in the minority. A few matrons wear el- bow-length gloves, and one may notice a pair of mesh ones, through which gleam mother-of-pearl fingernails. Of course, there is plenty of Sym- mer tan and these sun-glowing maidens use cosmetics with their suntan—a warm, rich-hued powder, a rouge that gives a glow of health, with particular attention to eyes and lips. Buttons in Colors B(n'mN! are doing their share to brighten the new wardrobe. All- biack dresses show buttons of bright red or green and white dresces step out of the all-white category when they are adorned with biue or green cr red but- ' tons. i T .. 0 0000000000000 0 B e e e e e ey e Privilege You'll Appreciate In the furnishing of the various impottant rooms of the home it often be- comes desir_able to use an ensemble of your creation tc take the place of a complete suite. We are making that possitle in selections to be made from these suites. You can depend upon “Furniture of Merit” character in de- sign; and “Furniture of Merit” quality in construction, For the Living Room Handsome is its design, with solid mahogany carved base, and fine frieze covering. Deep ;eatsfiwnh reversible cushions that are 'supremely comfortable. Web construction and genuine air filling. For the 2 pieces . . . . Bed-Dazvenport Group Think of the many occasions when you need extra sleeping facilities for the accommodation 9( guests—made possible with a Bed-Davenport group—which serves two purposes. This suite is covered in tapestry, with reversible cushions, and built-in double-size bed in the davenport. Complete for 3 pieces . . . . $106.50 Davenport Bed High-Back Chair Club Chair 34950 3270 H £ E T AT DU T For the Bed Room Beautiful hand-matched burl walnut construction, with plain walnut veneers—worked into » and graceful model—of extra large pieces, expertly finished. For the 4 pieces . . . . $110.00 Dresser. .. SRR Ehest st Dol Vanity....... 4 0 an LU T U] For the Dining Room Distinctive—both in character of design and craftsmanship—emphasized by many refine- ments that place this suite on a high plane of value. Choice of either mahogany or walnut crotch and plain veneers; and chairs of graceful shield-back design. For the 10 pieces . . .. $157.60 Buffet . China Cabinet Extension Table........337% Serving Table .. Master Chair and 5 Side Chairs. . ..$29% Our Costless Credit Makes Buying Easy and Paying Easicr House & Herrm g “Furniture of Merit” Seventh at Eye 00 > 0000000000 v ; g | i | M LI LR 8 SIUAL TR T A