Evening Star Newspaper, September 6, 1931, Page 19

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., SEPTEMBER 6, 1931—PART THREE. b Victorian Shoulder Capes and Drapery A bustle bow distinguishes Bruy- ere's black taffeta evening gown with a skirt which touches the floor in_front and is even longer in the back. Luxurious Brocaded Fabrics Emphasized By Louiseboulanger THE collection of new Fall clothes | shown by Louiseboulanger offers | several rew ideas in the construction of costumes which are worth consider- ing. Studio gowns created here, as the masterpieces of the house, always offer some special feature. Although mostly of flame, onc exception was a pajama | costume with trousers of black point | d'esprit, which were wrapped around each leg. The hip-length top was of gold and white brocade. 1 - x o | Another interesting design was seen in a negligee of green and gold brocade, featuring a train. The special interest in the cutting was a loose back panel, which came from the waist, up over the shoulders, and was tied in front like & cape. 3 The wrap-arougd motif, mentioned above, runs through the collection in street and sports dresses, afternoon clothes and those for formal occasions. In daytjme clothes the wrap-around is buttoned on the left hip slightly toward the back. Both dresses and coats are of the sheerest of wools, the dress materials, in eontrast to the coat. being used for the coat lining. The wools are so sieer and open of weave that the lining shows through the coat. One Winter coat, and there were few models as Wintry in appearance as this, was of wool, with a high standing collar and a 12-inch flaring hip band of skunk. ‘This same effect was seen on a lame evening coat, the fur continuing from & shawl collar around the hips. . ow s The most original note in the collec- tion was the Turkish effect in evening dresses of metal gauze. The blouse | section ended with a short waistline | to disclose a contrasting band of lame | snugly fitted to the uncorseted figure and disappearing under the skirt in truly Oriental style. The skirt, which started at the hipline, was of the same material as the bodice. Skirts of this type, in most cases, were headed by a wreath of artificial flowers which circled the figure. - Another movement was seen in dresses of heavy broche faille, trimmed with groups of folded pieces of the ma- terial, which stood out from the figure. Like Louiseboulanger’s removable skirts of a year or two ago, these were fas- tened on a separate waistband. A new fashion of handling light silk was used for scarfs, cuffs and collars. There were in shaded effects and were pleated as though with a waffle iron. Mixed Diet Upheld As Aid to Health BY SALLY MONROE. «* HY are vegetables safer than meat?” a young woman asked the other day. She has three children and tries her best to give them the right sort of diet. She _asked the question of her doc- tor. The gist of his explanation was this: . Modern man seems to be suited to a mixed diet. Unless there is some per- sonal reason why meat is undesirable, this doctor, and many other doctors and dieticlans, think meat is a per- fectly good part of the human diet. There are, of course, specific diseascs and conditions, in which meat is so much poison. But meat has high pro- tein value, and especially for children it seems to be an easy and desirable form of protein. Almost all foods, when they are di- gested, produce certain toxins—poisor ‘These must be carried oft by the sv. tem if we are to remain well. Meat produces more toxins than vegetables. Vegetables, when they are burned in the body, usually produce an alkaline residue, which is harmless. So, if the| system is not to be overburdened, it is| better not to load it down with too| much meat. The meatless diet must have some The shoulder cape, as used by Mirande, on a block wool coat with white broad-tail collar. Two costumes designed by Bruyere. Left, black wool suit trimmed with black astrakhan.- Right, red wool dress with red buttons and a belt of stitched black patent leather with a metal buckle. The fur vest effect on the suit is new and smart. other form of protein, and there is can- ger in giving a meatless diet to heal- | thy, well, active people that there will| not be enough protein. Plenty of milk provides this want; so do cheese and eggs and fish and nuts and dried peas | and beans. other proteins should be provided. Meat _once a day rmissible. That means that there] plenty of chance to serve fruits an vegetables abundantly. also bullds up fruits and vegetables. Once & child Iikes fruits and vegetables, he will never | be willing to get along without them. His liking is & food habit worth money | and milk powder may all be used quite safely. Their food value is not harmed change from their original The diet, when these forms of to him, so far as health goes, So if the diet is planned | very important food. With little or no meat, some of these | for each child, a pint a day for eich|milk arc used, should contain plenty | adult—that is ‘a regular chorus of tke | of raw fruits and vegetables—but that's is usually quite dieticians. Milk is increasingly recognized as a|by thelr A quart a da/ | state, another chorus of the dieticis most_of us have heeded. ans Most of us like milk. We may not Jike to drink it just as it is, but we like | raw fruit and vegetables. ‘This is not only | it in cream soups and cocoa, milkshakes the best thing, so far as the immediate and rice health of children is concerned, but it| of our in them a taste for|they have milk, ought to drink at least ance just as milk. t a day. And children, if | mother found out. int of their daily allow- 5 X Condensed milk and evaporated milk Eat lots of u ‘There is much to be said for the gen- udding. It is easy to get rid | erously mixed diet, as the puzzled you Most doctors an dieticians recommand it as the safest and pleasantest thing for people in normal healti Three costumes by Patou. trimmed with beige fox. The bl A brown wool coat trimmed wit sleeve. Right, backless evening gown of e is Generous Collar, Wide BY MARY MARSHALL. | HOPPING for a new coat this sea- son is an unusually thrilling venture. It is as easy and divert- ing as buying & new hat. Very often in the past buying a coat has been a rather dull, uninspiring task, because unless one could spend an unlimited amount or rave a coat made to order it was difficult to get one of flattering or becoming lines. There was so little variety in color, cut or trimming. But_this season coats really are & joy. For one thing the new silhouette is usually decidedly flattering. The new width at the collar and shoulders, the fur-trimmed sleeves, and the cinched- in waistline give the effect of surpris- ing slenderness. Even the fur-lined coats achieve the desired slimness | through the waist and hips. | Colors that you may consider for the | new coat are black, brown, red, tan, | green, blue and gray. There are sev- eral shades of brown, ranging from a | very dark tone to a warm rust tone. The red may have the rusty tone of Spanish tile, or it may be the new Persian red. There are several greens, including Persian green and hunter’ green. Blue is not a very usual choice, | but you will be able to find it—a dark navy or a fairly bright royal Paris has approved coats of several lengths—full _ length, seven-eighths length and three-quarters—and there has been considerable talk of the pos- sible success of these slightly shorter coats. However, the full-length coat has won out, and save in an occasional ensemble the other types are seldom | seen. ¥ 1 Your daytime coat should be about 8 inches from the ground, long enough to cover your longest daytime dress. and the more formal “afternoon coat may be a trifle longer—boot-top length if ‘you like. Boot-top meaning, of course, long enough to reach the top of high shoes if you wore them. There is seldom a pronounced flare in the new coats. But they flare a lit- tle and there is always a generous over- lapping of material at the front which helps to give freedom of motion and & graceful line from waist to hemh. They lap from right to left, of course, but they are always securely fastened either by a button or a belt and the old trick of holding_your coat closed is quite out of date. Even evening wraps are usu- ally provided with some sort of fasten- ing so that one’s hands and arms are left free. " Practically all the new coats, even of the sports genre, are made with fur collars and these usually close with & generous lap at the front. There are generous shawl collars that give the ef- fect of a wide rever at the right side and the new lei collars that give a_wide circular frame to the head. Almost always the fur collar is made, so that it sets well away from the neck at front and sides and any effort to bring it in. in a closer embrace, will stmply spoil the effect. Because of this stand-offish- ness some of the new coats are pro- vided with inside scarfs fastened at the back of the coat that are folded over flat at the front inside the large out- side collar. Frequently these are made of smooth, light-weight fur. Sleeves of the new coats are usually | made with a fairly generous. deep arm- hole, but with a slender line at mei shoulder which is usually hidden be- neath the spreading fur collar. There is a gradual fullness toward the elbow, Above, ensemble of woolen in Patou’s new brown, beige, printed in a multicolor design. brown asirakhan, showing an interesting blue fleur de soie. lNew Topheavy Coats Becoming Sleeve and Cinched-in| Waistline With Much Fur Give Them Charm and Beauty. with the greatest width usually midway between elbow and wrist. Usually sleeves are fur trimmed, but the fur seldom extends down to the cuff. All these facts one must bear in mind in buying a new coat and one should | have a distinct impression of the new coat silhouette. It is a decidedly slender silhouette with a distinctly slim waistiine and slender hips. There is the right-side lapping of the wide fur collar to corre- spond with the dipping down of the hat at the right side and the under- lapping of the left side to correspond with the upward tilting of the hat at the left side. Practically all the new coat materials are spoken of as spongy. There are spongy tweeds for more practical coats and spongy woolens for street and after- noon wear. The tweeds may show & blending of two or more tones, but #t is usually in a close, fine mixture. All-fur coats will undoubtedly be as much in favor as ever, but even if you are a fur-coat enthusiast you will have to have one cloth and fur coat in your cold-weather wardrobe. And if you are | not going to have a fur coat. then you may decide in favor of fur lining for your cloth coat. ly to its warmth and coziness and sur- prisingly little to its bulk. New Form of Trimming. Pi lfons that have been revived this sea- son. There are narrow ruffies made of taffeta silk with pinked edges on some of the new evening dreises and one even sees petticoats with small ruffies of the pinked-edge sort. ‘The old way of doing pinking was with a pinking iron. You folded the material over and then lald it on & block of wool and took your pinking iron and laid it where you wanted the pinked scallop and then—bang with the hammer and the sharp edge of the pinking iron did the rest. And so by repeated placings of the iron and bangs from the hammer the edge of the ma- terial was pinked. Edges of seams were also pinked, and this sort of pinking has also been re- vived. Many of the best French dresses are finished in this way. To be sure, the seams don’t show, but their pinked edges give a sense of satisfaction to the wearer. ‘The up-to-date way to do this sort of pinking is with pinking shears which you can buv at any store where dressmakers’ supplies are sold. Southern Fried Chicken. Singe and clean two medium sizcd chickens. Stew the necks, wings, backs, hearts, livers and gizzards for the stock. Add salt, pepper and noodles for soup. Roll the chicken in flour and seasoning and put into hot lard and brown. Add hot water to cover the bottom of the pan and let simmer. Make gravy. Fresh Green l’en;. Shell, wash and drain green peas just before cooking, drop into a small quan- tity of lightly salted boiling water and simmer, but do not boil, for 15 minutes or a little longer, until tender. Serve the small quantity of water left with the peas, and add butter, salt and pep- per. Paris Fashion. Cable August 27th. NTOINE says that curls on the nape of the neck are not suitable for wear with the new hats. He prefers a smooth neckline with an up- ward movement at the center back on the order of the French roll or the wind-blown bob sponscred by Agnes. Evening coiffures are more elaborate, and, whether of the wearer’s own hair or a wig, should be designed to conform in type with the frock which gccompanies them. Curls, including spit curl effects around the face, are held in place by a special wax. Antoine prefers wigs for evening wear, usually in a lighter shade than the wearer’s hair, although he makes some in natural tones, ¢nd also in white for special costumes. These use curls, puffs and spit curls to frame the face, giving & natural effect, al- though they are made like hats to slip on from the back and be pulled forward over the face. Jules Etienne finds & tendency for slightly longer hair for both day and evening wear, turned up in the back with curls, but always designed to su't the face of the individual. It will add enormous- | inking is one of the old-time fash- | Black broadcloth | coatdress, with hat, cape and muff of astrakhan, de- signed by Mirande. Mark New Styles Two costumes by Marcel Rochas, A brown velvet goun with-interesting fipcry: A suit of gray herringbone wool with half the jacket of black broadtail. The blouse, of gray and red marocain, is cut like the jacket. Orange Drop Cookies. Cream together two tablespoonfuls of grated orange rind, four tablespoonfuls of butter and one cupful of sugar. Add two well beaten eggs and four table- spoonfuls of orange juice, and two cup- fuls of sifted flour, four teaspoonfuls of baking owder, and a half a teaspoonful of salt, which have been sifted together. Drop the batter by spoonfuls onto & greased baking sheet and beke in a moderately hot oven wbout 10 minutes, Grilled Tomatoes. Scoop the centers from small toma- toes. Fill them with & well seasoned mixture of equal amounts of bread crumbs and brcken cooked sweetbreads, or crumbs and mushrooms, or rice and finely chopped chicken giblets. Put a plece of butter on the top of each and bake them on a heatproof glass plat- ter from which they may be served, or bake th-m in a cake pan and remove them t> a round silver vegetable dish and garnish with parsley. ‘ Another version of the bustle, favored mode of 1931, appears in the dress of Irene Dana’s evening ensemble of lame broche figured in gold, red and blue. Bustle Gowns Worn By Women at Smart Paris Restaurants | PARIS. | 'T'HE restaurants and cafes at the | Colonial Exposition have become | so popular this August that they have ! quite eclipsed the Bois restaurants. On a recent evening the Indo-Chine restaurant was crowded, inside and out, and the first of the new Fall frocks | were seen in public. Apparently the women have taken the bustle back to their hearts, for no fewer than half & dozen were noted here. One gown, in palest gray tulle, had the drawn-back front of the skirt caught up into a true bustle at the bick. The drop- | shoulder decolletage, in a deep U shape, was headed with a tiny shirring of light green two inches wide. The same | tone was glimpsed in the flounces cas- cading from the bustle, while tiny bands of green velvet were worn on each wrist. . = o Jade green romain made a medieval robe with a long, narrow, square decol- letage in front. Tiny tucks held the dress to the figure at the waist and there was ample fullness at the hem. A twisted belt of deep blue velvet and green romain was knotted in front to hang to the edge of the dress. There was the tiniest tight bolero. also in the blue velvet. and the court shoes were made of the same fabric. Short evening wraps seem still in the majority, although they are beginning to be worn with soft fur linings, like one of soft pink faille which showed the lapin lining turned over for a shallow shawl collar edged with the conventional ribbon flowers in blue and pink, reminiscent of those seerr im Worth's collection. This was worn over the only black evening dress in the room, a moire with a faconne pattern, | trimmed with double ruchings. * * * % The wind-blown bob created by An- toine is causing all sorts of difficulties for most of its wearers when it comes to evening dress. One pleasant relief is the little wig of exactly the same | shade as its wearer's hair. These are | done in various fashions, with little | knots at the back or with coronet braids, but the most effective one noted is short, with a mass of tiny curls all over its wearer's head. and is most feminine and thoroughly in keep- ing with the spirit of the times. Heavier eye make-up is noticeable wherever one goes. With the tiny hats mascara for daytime wesr must be | more discriminatingly applied than for | several seasons, but to make up_ for | that, eye shadow is in high favor. Blue is the favorite shade with all the green and blue costumes, while a mixture of blue and brown seems the preferred combination to wear with clothes in the brown and red shades. In certain cases, of course, the shade of the eye must be the guide in the choice of color, but the proper accompaniment for the new clothes seems to be the large, limpid eye, and make-up is the accepted method to acquire this. Short Fur Jacket. “What sort of gloves shall I wear with my new Autumn clothes? That is, shall I wear light gloves with dark suits and coat, or shall I wear dark gloves. Shall I buy gloves with wid=> flaring cuffs and shall these be worn over the cuff of the suit or coat.” This is & letter from a puzzied reader. Light gloves will undoubtedly remain in favor, but with the coming of cooler weather, dark gloves are frequently worn, and dark brown gloves will un- doubtedly be appropriate to wear with the dark brown dress. With a jacket suit usually light gloves are more at- tractive. If the cuff of your coat or jacket is | narrow and small, then you should wear a flaring glove drawn over the cuff. If the cuff is large, then wear a short | glove tucked under the cuff. & | ” With the new fur or cloth coats you may wear a longer glove drawn up over the sleeves of the dress under the coac. Celery Fritters. Sift together one and three-fourths cupfuls of sifted soft-wheat flour, three- fourths teaspoonful of salt and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Add one beaten egg, one cupful of milk, two cupfuls of chopped celery and one tablespoonful of melted fat. Fry the celery fritters in deep fat, or, if pre- ferred, in a skillet in shallow fat. In either case drop the mixture by spoon- fuls into the fat and. fry rather slowl, ‘The fritters need time to cook throu to the center before the outside be- comes too brown. Drain the fritters en absorbent paper and serve Mot. A \ >