Evening Star Newspaper, March 29, 1931, Page 49

Up-to-Date Models to Be Classed as En- tirely New — Slips, Combinations and Other Undergar- ments Are Carefully Fitted and Are Often Developed in Some One of the Soft Silk Crepes, Usually Plain But Sometimes Figured. BY MARY MARSHALL. P you find your supply of lingerie very low and in need of imme- diate replenishing you are really fortunate. Because, whether you buy it ready made or buy the ma- and make the things yourself, you will find costs lower than they have been for some years and lower, too, than they are likely to be 6 or 12 months hence. Moreover, fashions in all sorts of lingerie have changsd enormously with- in the past few months, and if you did have a supply of slips and night- wns, combinations and dance sets on d you would either have to remodel them or else wear them with reluc- tance. It is like putting new wine in old bottles or spreading fresh frosting on stale cake to wear one of the new dresses or suits over underthings that are not of the up-to-date sort. * ok ok X ACTUALLY one cannot speak of the | up-to-date sort of lingerie as en- tirely new. It is better to consider the change as the effect of the populari- on of an idea that has been carried out for some time by women of the ultra-fashionable sort. Women who have had money enough to have their lingerie made to order have realized for some time the importance of hav- ing slips and combinations and other undergarments carefully fitted—with- out, of course, being at all tight. It is only recently that the average woman has given much thought to this require- ment of fashion, because it is only re- cently that she has been able to buy ready-made things that made any ef- fort whatever to conform to the bodily contours. Nightgowns with their added length are certainly more attractive than their , shift-like predecessors. Even the simplest of them show some ten- dency to flare below the hips and either by actual shaping or by a ribbon or strip of material tied lbo;n.mfl‘le walist their indorsement of e her waistline. G Some of the more intricately made nightgowns fit fairly closely- suggesting & princess silhouette, and while n> one is taking the trained nightgown shown 8 while ago seriously, many cf the higher-priced nightgowns show a dis- tinct dipping at the back. * K K % de chine and Prench finish silk crepe are most often chosen for mightgowns this season, but various soft cotton fabrics, either plain or showing a small flower figure, are in line for favor. Slips, combinations and other underthings are often developed in some one of the soft silk crepes, usual- ly plain but sometimes figured. Satin is often cleverly used by way of trim- ming. Chosen in a darker t-ne than the crepe, it appears in graceful ap- plique designs or may be used for bind- ing. Triple voile, net and georgette are used for some of the filmier lingerie sets, but these materials are often most used by way of inserts and yoke ar- rangements. Gradually but steadily lace is winning its way back into favor as a trimming :Er zbednn nnxer:: and q&emm!‘u. ps and even nightgowns quite often have an about the hem. In cne of the new slips with a slashed side, the lace edges hem and is carried up the side slit as well. * ok ok ok CE sets, 5o called, are as much in demand as ever and are made of silk, satin or cotton prints. The bandeau of the set usually shows more shapeli- ness than bandeaus used to do a few years ago and the shorts are more . carefully fitted about the hips. Bandeau and garter sets are also very | popular end really have as good a claim | to the name of dance set as the| bandeau-shorts set. They are made of satin, crepe de chine, figured batiste, lm% are trimmed with applique borders ips, of course, follow the general rule of clceer fitting. This means more complicated construction. Many of them still manage to slip on over the| head, but where a really close line is| wanted about the waist and hips an| underarm closing is arranged. There | are new wrap-around slips that meet | the most exacting demands for form| fitting simply by the way they cross over at the (tc-ock. D ¢, 1931) ‘Arrange to Have Real Time Ofi; “A man's work is from sun to sun, | but a woman's work is never done.” | Housewives take some solace in| quoting that little adage, which was| never quit> exact and certainly ex- sggerates the situation in these days when almost every woman in the home reaps some of the benefits of modern science as applied to the simplification of housework. You know yourself that you do not have to work all the time. No, but the main trouble is that your work is spread over the entire day. It is here a little and there a little, s0 that you are under the strain of constant anxiety and con- cern. But this may be partly your pwn fault. It may be because you do not| group your various tasks so that they can be accomplished consecutively, leaving 8 definite block of time for | yourself. There is always something | very refreshing about feeling every day that one's work is done, even though it may be only for a few hours. The tired business man closes and locks his roll- top desic with s real feeling of relief, though he may be fagged out when he | Boes it and may have to look forward to | & battle with crowds in subways or sur- dace cars before he gets home. One thing that the girl who has worked misses most when she goes to housekeeping is the satisfaction of this aily closing time. Now, with most ousewives it really would be possible, y lorkinfigs!l"ll&ht ahead for certain| s of the day, to ¥vnck off for cer- hours every day. Usually these rs would come in midafternoon. ‘There is wisdom in making the most fi your time off with something of en- usiasm. Plan to do different pleas- @nt things every day when you have your “time off.” Don't sandwich in the ‘work and the recreation. If you do you will never have the satisfaction of looking forward to your relaxation and | ou %\l feel convinced of the truth of he old adage that & woman's work is never done. | ’ . | We're Nautical | Nautical and yachting influences are everywhere apparent in the realm of 5] and resort clothes, and the tra- ditional blue reefer with its straight smprt lines and buttons will brass btless be ;3 frequently seen at re- os mm{aflnun Petticouts are the choice of some women instead of slips. At left, rayon crepe petticoat with wproof hem, made wrap- around style. At right, glove silk petticoat edged with lace. A matching step-in is worn under the pelticoat at Left, with the one at the right. THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., MARCH 29, 1931—PART THREE. a matching brassiere-bodice emb bodi Three slips—At left, princess alip, lace trimmed, to wear with evening or formal afternoon dress; center, sports slip, with skirt fullness pleated into the idered and hemstitched top; right, flared and pleated slip with fited op, to wear under fitted dresses. Shades Must Be Carefully Cleaned Always have on hand a soft brush to clean your silk shades. They need constant cleaning to keep the dust out, and they are not properly cleaned with s cloth. A little brush, kept just for that purpose, is best, as it brushes the dust out without erushing or wearing out the silk. If a shade becomes really solled, the only thing for it is to have it cleaned by a professional cleaner. You may also wash your shade by preparing a tubful of warm water thick with suds of & pure white soap. Then immerse the shade and agitate it in the water until it seems clean. Then get a fresh tubful of clear, lukewarm water and rinse it thoroughly. Dry in a fair- ly warm place—or at least rather quickly. Any tr water might harm should be removed before this cleansing. Two-piece pajamas of soft crepe, howing stripes in gypey Jed bright at Eouthern resorts dur- blue and soft gray, blue and soft groy are piped Those in Vogue Are Developed by Use of Neutral Tones for | Town and Bright Hues for Sports. Dressmakers Give Force to Colorful Effects. WHI.'N you read a dispatch from Paris that color now looms up as| the most important consideration of the new fashions, pray do not be misled | into thinking that the important French dressmakers have gcne on an orgy of | bright colors. Don't imagine even that when you go on ysur vacation trip to | Paris three or four months from now | you are to see women much more col- | orfully dressed than they were on your last visit. Merely bear in mind that the French dressmakers, having found that there was no need for any radical change in the line or silhouette of women’s dresses for the immediate present, have had more time and in- clination to stress the great importance, which, of course, always exists, of the careful consideration of color in the ensemble. To some extent there has been a breaking away from black. Yet, for every dispatch we receive from Paris suggesting that black has yielded a point to brown or navy blue or some brighter color, comes another dispatch stressing the importance of some new black dress or suit or hat. There is no denying the smartness of black when handled by a really good dressmaker and worn b~ a woman who has master- ed the fine art of wearing good clothes. If you are fortunate enough to be able to wear black with distinction don't be | deterred from doing so by all the press- | ing talk about the importance of colors. | But if you are not at your best in black | don't feel that you must wear it. Much is said right now about the importance of the three-color scheme Many of Them Are| Well Adapted to| Purpose of Provid- ing Comfort and Agreeable Condi- tions, and Should Be Reflected at Home. F you want your husband to seftle down by his own fireside, after din- ner, instead of wandering away to his club, you might consider finding out what it is about the club that attracts {him. Nine times out of ten, you will | discover that it is the furniture! | Clubs have comfortable, substantial, ‘wlld furniture that has been made to be used. Deep-cushioned chairs and | davenports are provided. They invite | peopie to sit down, and make it so com= | fortable for them when they do that | their guests hate to get up. | A man who never loafs in a chair if |he is afraid that one or the other of |its spindly legs will give way under his | weight at any minute. He has no pro- longed fondness, either, for a chair that bumps into his back at the w laces. A great many “quaint” chairs of antique or modernistic design make no ' hit at all with the men. Comfort and | substantiality are what they want. There is nothing that spolls the dis- position of the average male more than to get comfortably settled . . . and then | only way they can manage to have the | making a dress at home at small cost they will be able to spend more on their Club Furnishing Ideas have to ! man hu‘s dfa s lamp to Ir light. Chairs and | Colors Seen. in Threes for Spring and Summer. For resort | wear this sometimes means rather strik- | ing color combinations. Blue has been combined with red and white by | more than one influential dressmaker. | Usuall; owever, the three-color scheme is not s0 obvious. An interesting new shade of brown known as brandy is| combined with white and green, for in- | stance, cr with white and rust. Nevy blue is used with beige and a yellowish shade of gray. A black afterncon dress | is trimmed with beige and ornamented with a buckle or clip showing a pink stone, or a dress of aquamarine blue is | trimmed with white and worn with a brown hat. An interesting and helpful diversion for you as you visit the fashionable shopping districts is to make note of the subtle blending of colors that you will see in the new dresses and suits | and hats. Dresses showing this combi- | nation of colors carry with them an | air of rather pleasing nonchalance, but, | of course, there is nothing at all acci- | dental about them. For all of the color | combinations you will see you would | probably be able to discover the sanc- | tion and precedent of some important French dressmaker. And in choosing your own color combinations you will | be wise to follow some of these prece- | dents. The other day some one interested in the sale of readymade dresses ex- pressed the fear that this new fashion for three-color combinations would en- courage women to make over their last season’s dresses and thereby save them- selves the necessity of buying new ones. Come to think of it, it ought to be help- ful to the woman who has time to re- model her old clothes. But the fact that a woman is able to salvage & last season’s dress by means of her own skill in dressmaking certainly does not indicate that she is going to buy fewer dresses. It simply means that she will have one more dress to wear, that she will find her wardrobe this Spring a little more adequate than it was last year and that she will feel a renewed sense of her own ablility to look well. | Most women, we find, buy not what | they need but what they can afford, | And if they contrive to make a dress | at home they do so because that is the | new dress or because they hope that by next important costume. together. No man has to go roaming around searching for an ash tray, and | then wonder what to do with it when he gets it. Ash trays and stands are provided at handy points, If you visit a man's club you will also | notice that every chair is provided with | a table which will hold reading matter. ‘The davenport has a long table directly behind it. Clubs are generously supplied with comfortable groups of furniture. It isn't necessary for a man to surrender his chair to some one else. Homes would be much more enjoyable if women would provide such groups and thus do away with the necessity of making one person uncomfortable in order to show proper courtesy to others. ‘The twin idea which has proved so popular in clubs is worth trying in the | home. On each side of the fireplace in clubs tall lamps are used. Smaller ones | :m give the same cheerful effect in a| ome. Walls should not be crowded with| g:cturuv Those that are there should B They should be interesting enough in theme to make any man or woman willing to study them again and again. Clubs capitalize on this idea, and women should do the same. Tapestries also.add a softening touch to homes. ‘The radio makes a splendid point of interest around which to center a fur- niture group which will have e appeal. Chairs, small tables and lamps, ash trays and smoking stands are al- ways necessary. The radio cabinet should not be parkd up against the wall without relation to the other furniture. e Boters iy For 45 omu‘ continuous service on a !nrml.“: Shiel of Berrybush, Scot- Three Types of Hair Lengths Are Smart French hairdressers recognize three distinct types of coiffure. There is the still short hair, not so short as it ‘Was |a year or more ‘ago, but still short enough to demand regular trimming. Then there is the hair long enough to make into a knot or chignon. This is really long hair, but most women have to have theirs trimmed and thinned in order not to let the knob or chignon become too large. n there is the midlength hair that is definitely neither short nor really Short hair—short enough to need reg- ular cutting—is still the preference of many well dressed French women. It is the favorite still of sports women an ‘women generally. It is prac- tical and convenient and can be easil, kept in condition by regular trimming. hort hair is seidon brushed off the | & ears. In fact, the short-haired coiffure usually calls for ears that are entirely or almost covered, while hair of the long or midiength sort may be arranged to show them. Short hair is parted at right or left side or parted in the cen- ter and waved gracefully over each ear. Spring Means Clrothes. A French fashion reporter observes that Spring is, of all seasons, the most rtant to the woman who is inter- ested in clothes, since new dresses and new hats have the power to rejuvenate women just as nature rejuvenates the trees and fields and countryside. No woman can really feel the apirit of sFrm. without feeling a desire for clothes that set off her own beauty or good looks to best advantage. Song No Longer in Very Good Fashion On the one hand, we spend money for vocal lessons if we have children who give any indication of possessing a promising voice for song. On the other hand, we teach our children that |1t is very bad form to warble or sing | at table, and we are likely to say “Hush, | dear,” if they break forth into song | when we have them out for walks. ‘Too bad, but true, it is usually & mark of bad breeding in young men or women of any age to warble, hum or sing whenever their spirits feel the urge. And little by little this sort of incidental music seems to be passing out of our lives. Of course, well trained servants simply don't sing when they work. It is years since we had one who did, but we can all remember the sort of cook who sang “Annie Laurie” or “Home, Sweet Home,” when she mixed the cakes and the cleaning woman to whom the sight of a broom or scrub pail served as an frresistible invitation for a song. With large, old-fashioned houses that didn't matter very much. but with modern apartments and small houses it really does matter to most of us. Probably it would do us all a lot of good if we sang more. In many Euro- pean countries factory workers sing as they work, and they are actually en- ouraged to do 0. The employers prob- ably realize that llnfml is a safe out- let for a variety of emotions, and it satisfies the desire to express oneself without making it necessary to s work to seek out a fellow worker whom to talk. Evening singing to babies is going out of fashion, and modern doctors and nurses assure us that a baby who has been properly fed and jathed and all | the rest can go to sleeg quite as well without a lullaby as with one. Lounging and boudoir slippers in pastel tones and bright colors, of wvelvet, iridescent kid, metal lame, satin. and brocaded velvet Evening slip of satin and lace, charmingly shaped to fit the figure. They Appear as Fea- tures of Many Types tinuation of Similar Vogue for Polka Dots. You will see great competition be- tween this kind of ornamentation and that, in frocks, accessories and lingerie. Eyelets probably get more votes as the most popular single kind of fanciness than any two other types of decoratfon. i ‘The eyelet is, after all, a type of polka dot, a rather de luxe, inverted type of polka dot. And you all know what a continued vogue the good little polka dot has had for yesrs; a vogue, indeed, that has never entirely vanished, de- spite the changes in the decrees of fashion. Now, along comes the polished, so- phisticated member of that great fam- u}ylx of decorations that dot their way to chic. Beginning from the head down, have you seen the new and ultra chic little eyelet-embroidered linen boleros with hats to match that you, if you make Pink satin nightgown, long and full, trimmed about the neck with "= l‘cllhuslldsinlb_nwnflumi‘l- in Fashions of the|otyou Season Seen as Con- |ninely becoming about &5 i L3 8 Ege3 aF E B yelets. Purses have perforations, quif eyelet manner, with shoes to ma white kid purse, however, does the let up brown by having hand-embro! ered eyelets done in brown silk to ma the newest sports ensembles of and white. With the elbow and of white grosgrain ribbon or te linen, with red, white' and blue eyelets, making modernistic: designs with pleasing effects. Keep Hfi;hed, Don'’t Pull Brim! The time to brush your hat is mot® when you go to put it on, but when; you take it off. You may not find it. convenient to brush it directly you coms* in, but before you put it away om sl own particular hat stand or in its vwn: that l;‘.huhu {I‘E‘ A eep your on wooden hat stands on your closet shelf should have covers to place over to keep them free from dust. You o rsarize can b