Evening Star Newspaper, March 22, 1931, Page 45

Flaring Flounces and Ruches on Ski ' Molyneux and Patou[fi"mm“g‘;‘.m . Design New Clothes | o v st stin svening gons. Which Gain Atten- Tfiv&m&'f Frequenty n;\_s'vfi'l tion—Lanvin Shows | miich the’weet " 7 "¢ ™ Faille Dress- R Cards T v s oo HCBVY Ruchmg at yoke with m attached, are featured Hem—Worth -Offers Sleeves and Scarfs of Distinction and Short, Beaded in the col 3 Jersey lace and other varieties of lace Bolero Jackets. LABORATELY ruffied are are tallored for sults and dresses. When the dress is of lace the slip contrasts lime-lighted by the simplicity of % cf edge to stand away dresses of these o i o types. Her we gown this season is of | e “chine with & flaring the figure. bands of the crepe . “The same idea is carried out the bridesmaid’s dress of pale blue | , and also in an evening both plain and ed, have skirts made with widen- odets covered with overlapping the material. Afternoon tures of her new models. | Worth, in his designing this Spring, makes interesting use of belts. Metal | belts and chain effects are shown on| tailored clothes and afterncon | costumes. Leopard fur is used to girdle jowns and formal afternoon ing dresses have belts of col- | ored beads and brilliants. So it is in| + details such as these that the mode is | elaborated for the season. The new collarless coat with of beige cloth trimmed THE . SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. G, MARCH 22, 1931—-PART THREE. rts Widen the Silhouette Above, left to right: A yel with white 11 signed by Patou. with it in color, as in 8 lace over a black slip and over pink. . St;.lfied Potatoes Six large potatoes, one-half teaspoon parsiey, one-half teaspoon onion, {er. salt. Wash the potatoes well. {:‘e:n. Whenu‘:x})::e, mpe out the in- side, = Mash 3 one teaspoon butter and a little hot milk, the parsiey and onion, well chopped, pepper and salt. Mix well. / Fill skins with mix- ture and brown in the oven. circular neckline, as designed by Molyneuz. with self-colored buttons, The raglan sleeve . ormal Line, Higher Back Styles on View Show Trend of Spring. Question of Skirt Lengths No Longer One of Any Great Moment — Dancing Requirements — Re- action Away From Low-Backed Eve- ning Dress. BY MARY MARSHALL. UYING or making an evening dress is such an important matter that it ought to be gone about rather deliberately, but unfe tely most women ac- tually do Puy dresses of this sort too hurriedly. ‘The reason for this is that each new evening dress is usually bought for some special occasion. Spring coats and sults and street cos- tumes and house dresses we buy as a matter of course without waiting for any specially important occasion on our engagement pads to prompt the pur- chase. But with most women the pur- chase of a new evening dress is the direct result of some significant social occasion. If it is a junior prom, & senior ball, an important evening wed- ding or a class reunion dance we may have several weeks in which to formu- late our plans and make our selections. For a theater party, a club dance or a dinner party we may have less than a week in which t6 find time for the im- portant preparations, and with the full business or social schedule of most up- to-date women this really does not leave any too much time. * k% % PMBABLY the sensible thing to do would be to choose one or two or three or four new evening dresses for Spring in the same matter-of-fact way that we choose the more practical items of our wardrobes. But if we do not do that we ought at least to give the sub- ject of evening a little serious thought so that when the time comes for making actual selections we will have not only convictions as to what we want, but courage enough to carry them throu(g So far as’the dressmakers go the question of skirt lengths is no longer one of any great moment. To the average woman it isstill a subject for question if not debate. There has been no important change in hemlines on the part of important dressmakers this Spring. To be sure, an inch has been added by this important French dress- maker for afternoon dresses or an inch has been taken off by that dressmaker for street and sports wear. These changes are not worth noting. For nite advice there is the oft-repeated sports be 14 13 and inches, with ankle or full length skirts for evening. should not be taken arbi- trarily, rowever. The pi ons of the- fi and the contours of the ankles should also be considered. The only way of expressing the rule that will apply in all cases is that no skirts should be much shorter than 14 inches from the ground—and that the more formal the occasion the greater should be the skirt length. * k¥ SUALLY evening skirts are sald to be full length or ankle length or instep length. Many women, of course, choose for informal evening wear a type of dress that may also be worn for late afternoon. Such, skirts are usually 8 inches or thereabbuts from the floor. For dancing some aof the dressmakers advise -1 skirts or, for certain individuals, skirts that | are 2 inches shorter than ankle length. A compilation of all the rules regulations that have been written on the subject of skirt lengths would be as complicated and confusing as the rule governing the conjugation of French verbs. It is of course perfectly g:llib]e to master the verbs without o'a.lngwn :n(h rule—ukl:ln llult as possible to choose proper sl lengths without having any idea about the inches involved. For now we have and other indications of the waistline placed where the body is most slender. More- over we have waistlines of normal girth. Fortunately whatever tendency there was to feature a definitely drawn-in waistline a year ago has come to naught. It is not s0 much that women have definitely decided not to un the discomfort of lacing their as that the slim-as-possible hip line is still insisted upon, and it is ectly impossible to overem, - e l:“‘ll;l.h. the lir:h'1 d rsmnd overempl Ing e an o ness of the hlp‘l‘ Ry OCCABIONALLY in the new evening dresses you find one with a belt | or narrow girdle placed an inch or so above the line that is strictly normal, but there is certaifily no definite in- dication of a return to a directoire waistline. Many fashion cl of late have combined to Imnf t what might be called a revival of modesty in eve- ning dress. Probably the cause of these cha was not in the nature of a reaction against immodest tendencies because by the time we definitely gave up the very short skirt it would have been difficult to find any one who still found it shocking. Now there is & definite reaction away from the very low-backed evening dress—not so much because women felt that it was im- modest, W:h::““t;xe ih:y had ‘mnde ::; discovery other types of even: dress were more becoming. the American woman who wants defl- Dress Designing News N!W colors, novel trimmings and new lines—of such is the news of dress designing. Patou is one of the most original of designers and his most re- cent collection is no disappointment to those of his clientele who rely on him always for a new slant on dress crea- tion. = In his evening collection many lace dresses appear, belted with wide crushed belts of black patent leather. Another unusual striking costume was a and yellow organdie dress belted with patent leather, while an fntricately bead Fandie o0k n',"o!-““ik’. rean. Brinted green. chiffons with widely spaced floral motifs were stressed for even! gowns. Everything in the w around them furnishes dress designers with inspira- tion for’ their m\: This season, for instance, Jean e 'S t“v:'nev colors, opaline yellow opaline green, are taken from the opaline E.::"" made by Louls Philippe, of ,w] Patou has a col lon. The two new edbhckhvlmdwwuchuol’wlor.‘g (Copyright, 1931.) & certain pearly luster difficult to de- scribe, but infinitely effective. Color is very important in Patou's new collection, and color contrasts are strongly in evidence. An orange and green waistcoat is shown with a brown suit, a yellow satin dinner gown is belted with brown suede and a black afternoon frock has a white fichu' bor- dered with yellow ribbon and & huge yellow rose at the front of the corsage. Despite this devotion to color, how- ever, black and white costumes are still, numerically speaking, the strongest fac- tor in the collection. Often, however, | of white, just as added interest by jackets, sleeve- less coats or sashes and scarfs of black or'a color. Patou's. silhouette is very new. The fronts and backs of his latest creations are quite flat, the fullness being at the sides. According to this 'y & skirt with fullness all around lacks both ithfulness smartness. Many of 'hl’mn.mdell. es) pocth the afternoon remarkable shades are wonderfully Spajgslike, with dresses, have much narrower skirts than low wool coat worn over a dress of yellow marocain. A black crepe romain frock trimmed ulle and lace. A red wool coat over a white wool dress, each trimmed with pleating. Three costumes de- 2220220 One of the best of the everu'ng.froclu designed by Molyneux for his e new Spring collection. It is of flowered in_jacket effect tying in the back. Scarfs at Their Best. ] Scarfs never were more important than they are at present. For ‘cooler Spring weather there are flat-shaped collars of galyak and ofher flat furs, which have to some extent, but not en- tirely, replaced the fox scarfs revived last Spring. Many of the new suits are made without collars, depen for fin- ish either on a silk of light-weight woolen scarf or ‘on the collar of the blouse, which is then drawn out over the top of the jacket. We hear much of the smartness of sheef blacks for evening wear this Spring, and surely there is no type of dress that is at the same time so prac- tical, so generally becoming and so smart for informal evening wear as the new black chiffons, laces and nets that usually give half tones of transparent black over the flesh tones of arms and shoulders. One does see really formal evening dress of transparent black, but | 5 g georgette, with a scarf draped 1t is such an eminently practical selec~ tion for less ceremonious occasions, lit~ tle dinners, the theater and small par- ties that most women at present are using it exclusi: for this thing, choosing te or colors the attracted favorable resorts and that is chosen now for a ly youthful type of dress. It is course, a good chofee for the will have to wear on many oc= not, of you casions. < especially w] ‘a white satin girdle—or one of greenish blue or rose-colored satin. of the new evening & clever use of white, black figures chiffon background, or black and bright yellowish green on white. along of new evening combina. i g | | # Wwas taboo. | . é L E 3 % ; | ! g £ § £ &% i §§ .§a i1 : s e 2aE, 300 égg kgt o Bl | 8 e 335 Hi B : 3 5 § seasons, is indorsed for evening wear by a m:ber of French dressmakers and may--just possibly— come into an hm“ place among Two Blouses comment at Winter But it is decidedly effective, - hen prints shaw . and - $iH