Evening Star Newspaper, January 18, 1931, Page 47

Very Short Types . Appear for Sports in i South, as Summer Forecast — Some New Ones for After- noon or General Day- time Wear Show j Straight Line From " Shoulder to Just Above Elbow. BY MARY MARSHALL. k 4 ND now it's sleeves. For the past decade or so fashion gave so much attention and thought to the subject of skirts and waistlines that little was left to devote to sleeves. 8o while skirts were shrinking from our ankles up“to our knees and from the knees down to the ankles again, while all sorts of experi- ments were tried to break away from the straight, low walstlin>, sleeves re- mained practcally the same. But now the skirt question seems to be fairly well scttled, at least for the present. The very long skirt for formal even'ng wear, the skirt that hangs sx or seven inches below the knees for general daytime wear, and for after- noan and informal evening skirts that range somewhere b:tween these two extremes are approved. This status of the skirt question seems to satisfy every one for the time being. There seems to be some tendency toward increased fullness in skirts, but the straight line from the waist to the knees or nearly to the knees prevails, and the flare be- low the knees is extreme only in the more elaborate sort of evening dress. ® ok ko SmLED4 too, is the waistline. Its departure cither upward or down- ward from normal seidom amounts to more than an inch or so. Thus ths scene of action has be:n clearcd for some really interesting work with sleeves. Most important is the re- turn of the elbow slesve and the shorter than elbow sleeve for daytime dresses, which may bring in thelr wake & more general acceptance of the long glove for daytime wear. For. evening there are all sorts of very short sleeves or sleeve effects, picturesque little puffed sleeves ud(o with dresses of the ingenue:type and short capelets for dresses of & less naive type. Some of the mew sleeves for after- noon or daytime wear show a ral straight line from the shoulder to just abova the elbow with a pronounced | Puff at the elbow and sometimes the | straight-frem-the shoulder sleeve ends | in a ruffe or frill ju®t above the elbow | that suggests the styles of the late | eighteenth ccntury. Fine pin tucks | are often used to produce the slender effect of the sleeve above the elbow, | with the fullness at the elbow achieved merely by releasing the fullness of the tucks. Sleeves are so diverse that the rule seems to be to choose the silhouette that is most in keeping with the lines and general spirit of the dress. For the hostess pajama costume With its lm,% slender lines, one finds long, slightly flaring sleeves. If the cos- tume suggests the long. gracefully dra gowns of the Middle Ages—as it somegimes d-es—then the sleeves are provided with the long drapery from the elbow in true medieval style. e FOR resort and early Spring thi.s‘ seadon's successor to the slseveless | blouse or sports dress is provided with | very short sle-ves that do little more than cover the b:nd of the shoulder.| These sleeves are ckve;lyedeonll?!d to| permit quite as much freedom of mo- tion as would be possible in a slesveless dress. Sometimes they are arranged with a diagonal inset extending to the neckline of the bodioe. Very new and as yet very striking are the full sleeves ed from & rather generous armhole to well below the elbow and finiched usually with a straight cuff extending to the wrist. ‘With the possible exception of these very bouffant &rm coverings, the new. more elaborate dress sleeves are still rest-ained enough to slip wittout dif- | ficulty in s straight coat or jacket sleeve. Consequently ther: has been no great change ir the foundation | silhouette of slceves on wraps and | jackets. k] §OME of the Prench dressmakers are making coats with sleeves quits full at the armhole, suggest'ng the old- time raglan sleeve, but these are im- portant chiefly as indications of what may be the outcome of increased elab- oration and fullness of dress sleeves. Some of the sports dresses for South- e wear are accompanied by short, straight %lckem with straight sleeves that are fairly wide at the cuffs. In the meantime all sorts of esting cuff treatments have app: on_coat sleeves mrx lats wtav{r -m: ring. Large, flaring gauntlet cu ;.x"e still widely used and there is often an elaborate trimming arrangement of fur or fabric about the elbow that ac- centuates the slenderness of the line of the lower arm. (Copyright, 1931.) ——e New Arrangement Of Lower Rooms Tt has come to be almost taken for granted that if & house has three rooms downstairs, they shall be these three—living room, dining room and kitchen. And if there is & fourth it seems, according to all the precedent of the present-day contractor and builder, to be a sun parlor, or sun porch, and nothing else. But circumstances in life alter many things and really ought to alter the designation and use of the rooms of your house sometimes. And there are times when the best disposition of the three ground-floor rooms really is not living room, dining room and kitchen. Suppose, let us say, that the owners and occupiers of & new house consist of a middle-aged man and his wife, both of whom are away at work a large part of the day, and a 20-year-old son attending a nearby college. Luncheon is never eaten at home and breakfast is & light and rather hurried meal—so that a real dining room would be used only for dinner, at most an hour out of the 24. Under such circumstances a ood plan is to have a really spacious iving room that lends itself to pleasant evening parties and makes dancing there a pleasure rather than a dis- comfort, and then to devote what space remains to a small bedroom that may be used for a maid or housekeeper, or in case that is not needed can be used | interesting arrangement of short or full- | Styles Pleasing For New Year. WmHEH you precisely like the new fashions or not you must admit that they are new and different and interesting. You may still think that short skirts were smart and prac- tical but you would'nt think of wearing one. You may prefer to go gloveless in the evening, but the chances are that you wear long gloves as & metter of the new convention. We wonder—every one who has the | new clothes as fashicnable women in | this country wear tnem—wonder what | will be the outcome. Thelr very new- ness gives them a strong appeal at| present. | What about skirts lengths? ‘The | long skirt for evening and formal after- | noon has been definitely established, with & skirt six or seven inches below the knee for street wear. ‘We no longer have to consider the exact length of the daytime skirt as we did' a year ago. We have become so used to this new skir le: for ime wear that we can tell at & ce whether it is right or not. Wili skirts grow longer—ankle length for street wear with trains for evening | for instance? Will they star; growing shorter? Or will they remain the same length for some time to come? So long as the skirt was the focus of fashion attentlon, some change in length was | inevitable, but it is quite possible that | for the time being dressmakers will leave skirts very much where they are, and devote their attention to other de- tails of the dress, Sleeves, tor instance. All sorts of uung.mn v happen to sleeves now that we ve at last been persuaded break away from the simplest sort of arm silhouette. Some of the new evening_dresses show cape sleeves or tiny puff sleeves and the sleeves of the new afternoon dresses and wraps show all sorts of interesting elaboration. Greater fullness of the sleeves naturally emphasizes the slenderness of the waist. And while many of the new dresses and blouses for Palm Beach carry on the| sleeveless fashion, many others show an | length sleeves. for a downstairs dressing room and guest room. In some families a good arrangement is to have a kitchen with an es mbll opening from the kitchen hall that can be used as & nursery for the children. Here children can play on rainy days, they can eat their meals if you like and they can keep the toys and collections of riff-raft that every normal child must have. Mushroom Gravy. Four tablespoonfuls meat drippings, one tablespoonful butter, ons-half cup mushrooms (canned or fresh), three tablespoonfuls flour, one-quarter tea- spoonful salt, one-quarter teaspoonful paprika, one cup milk and four table- spoonfuls bolling water. Mix the drip- and butter. When hot add and Toom or a da; wn the mushrooms. Add the flour and cook until browned. Add rest of ingredients, Boll 2 minutes. constantly. 2 THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, JANUARY 18. 1931—PART THREE. - tyles Is Contrast Smooth and Rough| Goods Have Place in N ew Fashions.| Both Prints and| Plain- -Ceolors Show 11 by Marked Emphasis on SlééVeé At left, pastel colored dress with contrasting trimming band on skirt has pufied sleeves, In center, sleeves that are slit along outside of arm, and gathered into three bands, give a smart finish 1o a black and white dress. At right, the sleeves are shirred at the el- bows, and buttons are sewed along the inside seam to edge a pleated band of contrasting material that matches the draped collar. in Materials worn; from others you will hear much talk about the revival of flannel and | cther smooth woolen materials. You | will see charming new evening dresses of glessy satin. At cne time you may fe:l convinced that plain colors will be smartest; at another you will be impressed by the revived impor:ance of prints. Some one |may tell you that the new clothes for Tesort wear are to be even more femi- nine and picturesque than those spon- Effect of Fashion‘S‘farea for 1930, but you will not over- Favor.. W! can find shown now inthe South that will | we come to buy ummer wasdrobes, for sunshine Spring thi Jre fore- On Icoking into the new Palm Beach be established our Spring and it is in the lapds of Wi that the new casted. fashicns you will first be impress:d the wide range of colors, fabrics, sil- ook the smart simplicity of the dresses, hats, wraps and accessories shown for resort wear in some of the best shops. The truth of the matter seems to be fot in the fashions | that both smooth and rough materials have been prominent in the new dresses and wrlrs. Both sorts will be worn. | We shall have silks as well as wools chowing a spongy pebbled appearance. EShantung, which is a rough-surfaced material, appears in silk, co'ton and wcolen version. Light-weight rough by | favcred as they were last “year, and linens with a rough surface are spoken houettes and designs {rom which to|of by many authoriti's as supremely select. You may perha) confused. On the one be luminous, strom, possibly be dul pastel. that finished materials Above, cape sleeves, flared and pleated, are used with pleated trimming flounces on a satin eve- ning dress. At left, a two-tone dress with colored friniming bands on skirt, neck and sleeves and @ tiny puff ar the wrist, a little and you will to | hear that pastel tones will be supreme, and on the other you will be impressed with the importance of bright shades, oolors that could not | You will be told by some authorities rough will be| important. Side by side with these rough meaterials there are smooth flan- nels and satins which will doubtless gain importance as the season advances. |Jewelry P::ts Emphasis on Red Perhaps not more precious than rubies, but certainly as stylish right now are the many, many red stones used in the new costume jewelry. The whole Tealm of new jewelry is red! Rubies, if you happen to have | them. Red stones, if nat. And as a | matter of fact, few folks todiy know | & real ruby when they see it. | The lacier your new fewelry is, the better. The day of gobs of this or that store ebout your neck has been succeeded by the most intricately-de- signed bits of loveliness for your neck, your ears, your wrists. ‘There are two new kinds of necklaces that bear stressing. If you are young and cute, try on one of the collaret necklaces. They are virtually a shal- low yoke of gleaming stones. And there 18 no denying their glamour. If you are a little older and round yokes are not so becoming as the flat- tering V, then a cravat necklace is yours for the huying. This type of necklace, instead of merely dangling about vour neck. has two little tie ends of brilliants which look much like a Jjeweled t'e. Pendant_ earrirgs are very good now. But round ones sre newer than the pointed ones. And the kind that set & single large stone all around with many smell ones that twinkle and scintilate, are very good, from a style point, and very flattering to many women. There are little gittering belts for wear with white satin gowns that are made of synthetic rubles, set with crystal rondels. There are rings made of synthetic rubles cut square or oval, with a setting of tiny crystals. Among the very newest !Erln. jewelry in the ruby red category is an exquisitely dainty cravat necklace that hangs low, m2de of the finest red beads, in & lacy design that has a scalloped edge. There is a triangle of cut crys- tal where the tie ends loop over each other. This is tremendously effective on a white chiffon or satin gown. Two new earrings that would be chic blessings in anybody’s ears are fine crystal, cut in oval form, set in a rim of red, with small rhinestones all around the outsic ‘These, matched up with a bracelet or a ring, are very effective on s dainty PR The medallion necl made their appearance this Winter, usually with a bracelet or earrings and ring t> make up an ensemble. This Spring they come, not set with the mosaic or cameo decorations of the Winter, but with synthetic gems, beautifully cut so that they gleam like the real article, and set in the pink of perfection with erystal rondels, Orie such necklace and ring ensemble has beautiful medallions of synthetic rubles, in rather rectangular shape, slightly longer than wide, completely surrounded with rindels and the necklace jtself crystal rondels set in solid silver. pisisicaieds 5 AN Filled to capacity with exhibits, Lon- don’s largest museums, the British and South Kens! , lled to keep unpacked in eries of recent explorations. tweess and wool crepes are as highly | Dress of pale rust satin with draped trimming on bodice and sleeves of @ deeper shade. Tailored dress of brown basket weave with small cuffs above two buttons, The silver brocaded chiffon eve- ning dress at the left shows a cape- let in place of sleeves. The formal dinner dress at the right is made with flared cuffs inserted at the Child Who Sets Table. SI'X'X'ING the table is a task that goes begging in most families where sons and daughters help with the work. It seems such a simple thing to put the knives and forks and tumblers in position and then to go through the simple routine of adding the other needfuls for breakfast, luncheon or dinner. Certainly it is not heavy work and it cannot harm the most beanti- fully manicured fingers. And yet— who wants to set the table anyway? the way in which the table looked upon as a very impor- tant matter in families where the for- malities of dining are highly regarded. Where there are many servants it is the butler’s business ut least to inspect the table before the meal is announced. If he doesn’t actually set it, he takes the responsibility for having it set per- fectly. It seems like a trivial matter | the cloth is laid precisely or not, er it hangs down just as much at one end as the other, whether or not the forks and knives are laid exactly even- 1y or whether you have the forks on this side of the plate or that. These thi do not seem vital to many women, Yet actually they are impor- tant because they 80 to produce a tone of harmony and good form that Mflll much to the enjoyment of the meal. If you manage without a maid and have children, it is perfectly réasonable to expect them to reileve you of this not _very difficult piece of work in con- nection” with meal getting. If there are several children the best plan is to assign the work first to one and then to another, the term of the table setter being limited to one weck. Or, if you liké, you may give a ¥ly a‘lowance extra to the table sotter, the littie fee to ‘k‘.) from child to child week after weel At the left is a satin dress with puffed sleeves that are drawn in ‘at the wrists and buttoned snugly. The top blouse shows sleeves with godets of contrasting color and the lower blouse, of metal bro. cnde, is made with double sleeve, the wunder one matching the skirt of solid color. The outer sleeve, bell shaped, is shirred like the shoulders of the blouse. At right, a wool crepe dress of gray with black inserts on skirt, sleeves and collar, where there is @ mono gram. elbow. They are banded with white with unprejudiced flattery the arm too fat. Colored Squares of Today Are Receiv- ing Much Attention. Tans Lead Proces- sion in Linen—Blue, Rose and Orchid Also Approved. ANDKERCHIEFS have come a long | distance since the days when your great-grandmothers folded them peace- | fully over their breasts. A nice hand- kerchief never received the attention getting. The new mode has grown a little ‘practical at times, or maybe it just wants to be different. Large squares, almost as large as men's handkerchiefs, |are the newest thing. Linen is the fa- | vorite material. One of the most popu- |lar types chooses a solid color with a |large “white initial appliqued or em- | broidered in one corner. | While tans lead the color procession |in the linen handkerchief parade, blue {is also extremely popular, and rose and orchid have their innings. | If you vant to be ially swank, choose a large biea: linen {mndker- chief with the usual white initial. Black long ago ceased to be assoclated with morning. It's one of chic's chief ac- cessories now, but unless your costume as a fitting background for the hand- kerchief you should not resort to black. If it is, don’t dare use a simple white when you could carry black. Others of the large squares break the colors and have designs in various tones of the same shade. Brown and tans again head the list, Many of the handkerchiefs are hem- stitched. ‘When it comes to the regulation fem- inine size, th> stvle of the larger 'ker- chiefs makes itsolf felt. Solid colors velvet of the dress, is rich and intere; ing to the woman to whom sleeveless dr that the colored squares of taday are| fur, which, in contrast with the black Both these sleeves are becom- es are not flattering. They veil that is too thin and the arm :%u is | Handkerchief Styles | again appear in linens, and hemstitched | edges and narrow borders are good. The plain white handkerchief, while always acceptable, especially if it has some real lace to make it intriguing, isn't on display just mow. Colors of all kinds are combined in many designs to brighten white surfaces. Usually such designs are four-square, repeating their motif in every corner. Dance handkerchiefs in large squares of chiffon are holding the wrist position, just as they have for a_couple of seasons. They suit th» period of flounces and laces and old-fashioned charm that is the mest modern thing in the present mode. Chiffon is better in pastel shades | of asclid color. rather than in the shat- | tered blendings, however. Lace, which Year Has Prospect of Showing Early ture, as Well as Sim- ilar Products From Abroad, Some of Them Adapted to Demand. 'HE American home more and more is going provincial if the kind of furniiure that hundreds of big furni- ture factories will be turning out this Winter finds the welcome that the manufacturers have predicted. They have 1931 all figured out as a provin- cial year. First, there's the provincial furniture of the United S ates—early American— dating from 1620, the year when the | Piigrims landed in Massachusetts, to aktout 1720, and colonial, dating frem 1720 on through the Revolution. Second—and now, it appears, destined to renk close behind the first—is the previncial cf France, the kind of furni- ture that was used for generations by . . k! American Furni-|e N N % RSN Elaborate - sleeves with setin /s banded at bottom with fur, twice repeated. is always softening, forms a charming e g for many of the dance handker- chiefs. Cobwebby, shadowed lace is al- ways appealing. . The vogue for lace on dresses, both for afternoon and evening, may be re- sponsible for the in popularity of handkerchief lace, and it is really e handkerchief which will your ensemble as it is to get the right shade of hose or to achieve just the proper tilt to your hat. make yourself much more interesting choosing brown and tan handkerc! than you will by letting a white with rose-dotted border do. If you best results in blue, so will your kerchief. If you wetch this imnortant acces- sory, you needn't be afraid to play drop-the-handkerchief with anybody. t your hand- furniture of walnut and maple. Such furnitire appears at. x&but in a hom* of tie umei e farm house or cottage style dwelling, with rough plaster walls, exposed beams, big fireplaces and recessei windows. It is suitable, however, for small homes or apartments, for is simple lines do require . pretenticus surroundings. It should, -of course, be by the proper accessorie aint linens; quilted cushions, hooked rugs, plain board floors and inexpensive decora- tions. ‘The National Purniture Style Show, just witnessed by the buyers from re- tail stores at the American Furniture Mart, Chicago, demonstrated the faith that the furniture makers are placing . For the bed room, dinin| room and living room French provincial was more widely shown than at any time inthe past. Of course, “French provincial” in the ccmmercial sens> does not mean genu- ine antiques, nor even exact copies. The furniture is Americanized to meet pres- ent- needs, aithcugh the original lines cazefully preserved some cases conled exactly. The ne for such changes is evident when it is bered that beds used the rem ust French peasants, especially in Brittany and the colder provinces, were com< monly made to hold six or eight pers sons, unlike the standard double-bed of 3 today. 'm’e Prench provincial is easily iden- {tified. “A typical piecé:. is the buffe or are widely . made, without footboards. The style is also espzcially rich in small pleces, including hanging shelves for pewter and crockery and similar ob- jects. Criss-crossed wire is commonly used instead of glass for doors. 1931 Takes Color With New Relish A vallant effort has been made to give color an important place in the fashion picture for 1931. In fact ever smce Armistice day 12 years ago, an etfort has been made to give women a keener appreciation of color in dress. Actually women of today do appre- ciate color. We have fortunately oute grown the end-of-the-century notion that & love for color indicated crudity and lack of civilization. The younger women boast of their love of color the same way that they speak of their (ondt.r:eu for dance music and outdoor sports. Even with this admitted interest in color there are difficulties in the way of persuading most women to turn from “heir blacks and beiges, grays and browns and navy blues in favor of more vibrant hues. Dull colors, dark colors, neutral colors seem safe. Bfack ana navy blue are smart. Or at least it seems easier to present & smart appearance when wearing these colors than when dressed in red, bight blue or green. Pastel eslors—Slightly grayed or misty ;ones of t.e stronger colors—won a place for themselves last season and the year before, and are playing an important part in Southe ardrobes this R er, ), the emerald sort. These If you are a study in brown, you will