Evening Star Newspaper, August 24, 1930, Page 43

With Coats of These| Materials Offered in Great Variety, There Are Induce- ments to Seek Worth - While Gar- ment—Some Selec- tions Which Are Sure to Pass Test When Cooler Days Arrive. BY MARY MARSHALL. F it is true, as the old-fashioned farmers say, that cold Winters fol- low excessively hot Summers, then we shall have need for furs this Winter. But even if the old saying proves to be all wrong and the Winter turns out to be mild and balmy, furs will still be unusually important from & fashion point of view. We may not actually need them to keep out the cold, but we will certainly need them to be in fashion. * ok ok ok IT is not difficult to make these pre- dictions for Autumn and Winter, be- cause fashions for furs are by this time fairly well established. Furs of good quality, like fine jewelry, are too valu- able and require too much laborious worknfanship to be left to last-minute whims of fashion. Of course, we all know by this time that black is to be extremely smart for street wear this Winter. Black always is smart for street wear, so we should like some new word to express a super- lative quality of smartness to apply to black as it will appear with the coming of Autumn. There is nothing to surpass the smartness of black caracul, especially the soft, pliable baby caracul that is used for some of the finer coats. One's impression of the new black caracul coat is associated with silver fox, which is used for the collar or may be used for cuffs as well. One of the most admirable of all the new black caracul coats we have seen had collar and cuffs of sable-dyed kolinsky—and a black pony was collared and cuffed with natural fitch. *ohox To many persons the new browns are much more interesting than black, however smart it may be, and furriers have not lagged behind the dressmakers in realizing the possibilities of making the new browns desirable for Autumn and Winter. All the furs of a naturally or conventionally brownish cast—such as nutria, beaver, mink, sable, fitch, marten and kolinsky —have had due consideration for Autumn. New and smart is ermine-dyed chocolate color and lapin or rabbit similarly trans- formed by the dyers. Mole, which bridges the gap between furs that are gray and those that are brown, has been revived. In spite of its fragility it has been employed for many of the smartest of the new sport coats, but the new mole is more durable than mole as we knew it a few years ago. And it has the advantage of be- ing one of the fine furs that are not especially expensive. Gray squirrel has bcen used for a number of smart coats for street and sportswear. Gray sheared lamb and a new bluish-gray shade of lapin add to | the variety of gray furs for ihe Au- tumn, * % ok X ALAPIN, which is a new sort of | shaved lapin or rabbit, 15 dyed in | various shades and will doubtless prove to be one of the smartest of the less expensive furs. One could write endlessly of the furs that are offered in tempting versions for Autumn—ocelot, or lecpard cat, a South and Central American va-iety of true leopard which comes only from Asia and Africa; muskrat, a dense, soft, durable fur that is often treawd W imitate seal; baum rthartén, with a matural rich brown shade resembling Backbone as Beauty Test Positions in Walking, Standing or Sittin Tend to Improve or; Injure Appearance. . ‘ | paratively easy to keep it 80 if tho hadit Foot Troubles Con- | of holding the body straight is acquired | {early in life. tribute — Statement! by Specialists. BY CHARLOTTE C. WEST, M. D. | T is asserted that to the practiced eye, & woman's real age can be esti- mated by her back. | To be beautifully built, you must look | into the condition of the spine, because the body is like any other piece of fur- | niture; it depends for its beauty of out- | line upon the foundation column. he | positions in walking, !hndlnfnmd sit- ting all tend to improve or injure the back. ‘Those who habitually lounge in the same attitudes throw their weight on one set of muscles, causing these to overdevelop, while the cerresponding | ones are weakened. The pull on the stronger muscles causes e k to| shift out ]of !lflgnmenlt. ‘The {nturl’; pull and play of muscles properly use causes the_ slight curves E: the spinal | column whioh are formed gradually| from infancy—when the spine is a streight rod—until adult years are| reached. In most women, however, these curves are greatly exaggerated. The business girl who sits all day, and the saleswom- | an who stands a T‘en deal, invariably assume faulty postures which in time destroy the perfect alignment of the back and the symmetry of the body. ‘Thus the saleswoman stands on or fa- vors one foot, so raising the hip and shoulder on that side. Foot troubles are responsible for this, for they develop through incorrect foot- wear, through shoes that do not fit properly, high heels that throw the body out of alignment and make stand- ing a torture. The suffering and dis- tress, as evidenced by strained facial expressions and twisted bodies, are only too apparent, while women who sit ail day, who lull, slump or hunch them- selves cannot but develop & slight curvature of the spine. s\nceh l);:mw‘gefauon :( ttlu !mt‘l:e ine is primar! lependent u e gny framework, the question is often asked, “What constitutes a perfect spine? What are the measurements? And is it possible for different types of people to have nearly perfect spines dis- tinctive to each?” A well known specialist makes the following statement in reply: “Any type of person may have an almost spine; measurements rega portionate length of the column to the body have nothing to do with the perfection of the spine itself. When a spirit level applied to the shoulders registers even shoulder ug:. and when the thumb bolts hang so that they show body l:‘l‘! ul{'u a corresponding straight sp! ‘when viewed from the back, and when the plumb-bob, drop from the ear in profile, touches the outside of the foot at a certain point, we realize that we have a spine close to perfection. §_But, he ‘on to say, we are all S muff with bow of caracul conceals - - THE SUNDAY STAR, D\ Brown carac® was used for this short jacket, befet and muff. The flap on the a pocket that serves as g handbag. 0 g sable; fitch, another nanfe for polecat..‘ with a yeliow under fur and a long, dark upper fur] kolinsky, a rich brown and tawny colored.fur sometimes dyed | to resemble eable; nutria, sorfetimes | called South American beaver: astra- | chah, dyed either brown or black—als these furs one sees when reviewing the | furriers’ offerings for Autumn and Winter. . s Every season has its own favoriie Wways of combining furs, and this sea- sof; there i a tendency 0 use such furs as marten and fitch—having fairly short hgir—instead 6f long-haired furs like fox and lynx for collars, cuffs and other trimmings on fur coats. Kolinsky, | netria and beaver, marten and fitch g of the shoulders, which naturally throws -less slightly one-sided. There ".}‘é"n'é' absolutely perfect backbones. are thus coming into prominence as trimming furs. . (Copyright, 1930.) ‘There is usually a“difference of one to three-quartsts of an ihch in the |e\'el‘v the hips out of perfect alisgnment, and 80 on. Tt is essensial that the back be fat, nd since it is so at birth, it is com- By a flat back s not meant a stiff, rigid back; slight rormal curves give ease and motion to the body, but the aim should be to keep the back straight, strong and flexible. (Copyright, 1930.) Brown Alaska seal is degeloped in a coat with pronounced waistline. | she uses for lingerie or frocks. | through Our Silk Underwear -Needs Special Care TH! wearing of st underthings is 1" no lomger the exclusive privilege of the rich. In facé, silk things make a strong appeal i the woman in mid- dle circumstances who likes to dress daintily, but who cannot aYord large laundry=bilis. It is so much easier to wash dainty silk things than fine linen or lc‘otwn, or at least most women think it | ‘The home dressmaker should always give the laundry test to a piece of the silk In this | way she may see whether, with the | usual care in washing, drying and | pressing, it keeps its color, does not | streak and comes through the process | without obvious injury. Silks that are | not spoken of as wash silks often go the right sort of laundry process amazingly well, and it is folly to send a frock to be dry cleaned when | |it may be washed satisfactorily at home, A special technique is required for the washing and ironing of silks, and the fact that a piece of wash silk doesn’t run or lose color when sub- mitted to rough treatment doesn't mean that it will not wear a great deal better when treated with consideration. But for the woman who does her own little laundry work, the gentler treat- | ment required by silks is a good deal | pleasanter than the rougher sort of treatment usually given t» cottons and linens. | Really hot water should never be used, nor really cold water either—and this is better for the hands of the erstwhile laundress, too. Soap shoulc never be applied directly to the mate- rial. Soap chips or a Jittle cake soap should be dissolved in boiling water and then added to the basin or tub of wa- ter. In this sort of lukewarm bath silkks may be soaked for four or five minutes to advantage. But it is a mis- take to soak many things together. The garments should not be rubbed on a board, but gently sozzled up and down in the soapy water. Usually a second soap bath is desirable and there should be two or three rinsings in clear, lukewarm water. You may, if you like, dry the garment by rolling between two bath towels and leaving until almost dry. Or you may hang it up in a warm room not too near the radiator. Silks should never be allowed to become bone dry and then sprinkled. Pressing should be done with a moderately hot iron as silk burns much more readily than cotton or linen. Hand—“’ ork on Child’s Frock you have a little daughter or two and find time tb make little frocks, IP‘ !a good plan is to work away on rainy days to get the bare construction of the frocks over with, leaving finishing and trimming until later. This makes very pleasant occupation for the hours you spend on the porch or sitting in your garden—on days when it would be irksome to sit indoors working over a sewing machine. Very inexpensive materials may be made into most attractive frocks if they are adorned with a little handwork. Little boy suits and little girl frocks made entirely of unbleached cotton are sold in the shops for the same price as those made of very expensive mate- rials. You know how cheap and dur- able unbleached cotton is. these little suits and frocks salable at the high figure was a very little trim- ming—a few rows of cross stitching, or- a gay flower or two made of colored cotton goods applied with colored threads. Cross-stitch embroidery is used to make most attractive little smocks and frocks. This may consist of embroidery in bright colors on applied pockets, on rtion at the it and on the . It can be applied easily after the frock is put together and lends itself best to cotton crepe mate- rials that need no ironing. Mark Your Hat. " Just by way of identification it is eonven!eb’nt to \{na one’s initials marked inside one's hat, ly if it is one Pt e might e ooniused At Biat lilhst with some one else's. The fad this Summer is to have the initials in | about on the rocks, isn‘ he? the form of a monogram embroidered ina el in plain sight on the outside of thgm hat ltpthe front. WASHINGTO. Formal afternoon coats are long and slightly flaring. D. C, AUGUST 2 1930—PART THREE. The black mole coat at the left is made with lines futing closely at the waist, and the brown moire caracul in the center has a cape effect over one shoulder and a large brown fox collar. The beige lapin at the right has brown leather belt, velvet beret and suede gloves. The black suede gloves stitching and ermine trimming. shown above at the right have white Avoid Closing Boy’s Mind Parents Whose Own| Ideas Lack Open Qualities Have Diffi-| culty in Producing Results — Estimates of Other Children in| Community. | BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. HARRY scraped up a forkful of mashed potato. “Mother,” he said, with his mouth full, “Dick’s got a dandy new suit. It's nearly white, kind of woolly, and he wears a red tie with it and red checkered socks. He looks swell. I saw him going to the Bronsen's party.” Harry's mother looked at his father. | “It wouldn't have hurt the Bronsefis 0| of the children along. And that poor | | Ronney had on the funniest get-up you | | ever saw. Must have been his brother’s, | ask Harry to their party. He's been go- ing with that crowd some.” “Oh, mother! I don't know Teddy | Bronsen very well. I only saw him twice | and besides Dick lives right next door.” “You don't understand these things, Harry,” she explained. “When you're older you'll know what 1 mean. Mrs. Bronsen deliberately left you out and I'd think you'd have spunk enough to realize it. Tell me about Dick's suit.” “Well, I told you. That's all. It's| sort of fuzzy and it's nearly white. He| looked great. He said he wished I was| going and I said I did, too. But, any-| way, he looked fine. { had a tie and socks like that and he said maybe you'd buy me some.” “What! Copy after the Smiths! I| guess not! As for another suit for that child—well, I just don't see how they | can afford so many clothes for him.”| Then to her husbtand, “Dave Smith's | ‘They say | his business has gone to pieces this year | and I hear they owe everybody in| town.” To Harry, “Don't let Dick | patronize you, dear. The next time he suggests my buying you a tie and socks like his just say, ‘My mother has as good judgment as yours, I guess. And we don’t run bills’ No, don't say that exactly, but give him to understand that you are just as well dressed as he is.” Harry scooped up his gravy, his fore- head thoughtful, but he was silent. “Say, dad,” he began presently, “they didn't put me on to pitch tomorrow. Tim Johnson said it was a big game and they needed older boys. Smart Lingenfeld and Red Grooper are pitch- in’. " Want to come over and see the It's Saturday. tch Red and Smart pitching? Oh, I don't think so. You're pretty good, Hal. I can't see why they have to pick on those two every time. Why don’t you stand up for your rights?” “Well, what could I say? I want the team to win, and when Tim explained they couldn't take a chance it was all The four-piece fur sg I said I wished I j, right with me. They're awful good, and besides, I guess I get rattled.” “Nonsense!” exclaimed his mother. “But I'm just as well satisfied. Those boys aren’t the ones I'd rather you'd go with. Remember this, Harry, you're a Dexter, and these other boys are—well, they're just a gang. Why, Red Grooper's mother used to do my sewing.” Harry looked troubled. “But I like them better than Sis Bronsen. He just stands around.” “No wonder! Say, Harry, I want you to go over and see old Mrs. Watson soon.. oy, mother?” Harry looked pus- d. “Oh, she's old and she lonely, and she likes you, that's all.” ‘Then to her husband, “Timothy cut himself out of her will, they say, by that last escapade of his. She's worth at least two million and she hasn't a soul to leave her money to. You never can tall.” “Oh, by the way, Dave. I saw Mrs. | Greenfield today and I've laughed my- | self to death ever since. She had two a mile too big.” “Ronney's the smartest boy in our room,” said Harry. *He'd need to be, poor child. Don't let people think you're queer, too. Harry, by chumming with him. People judge you by your friends, you know.” “That reminds me, son,” said his father. “I told Prof. Tilden today that I want him to see that you get fair play next year. Those language marks of yours weren't fair. I'm sure. You should have been class leader last une. “Oh, dad!” Harry reddened. “I I wish you wouldn't—" “Neyer mind! I told him plenty. sald we were bringing you up with a fair, open mind and I wasn't going to have it spoiled by unjustice. Hand me the vinegar, Maude.” How can parents bring up their children with open minds when their own are closed and every word they say, every breath they take, is prejudiced, unfair, and slyly calculated? Long Skirts. FTEN women have worn skirts so long that they tralled on the ground in back, but 800 years ago skirts were so long in front that they | had to be held up when walking and veils and sleeves were so long that they had to be knotted up to prevent them from hanging and trailing on the ground. And the interesting thing about this fashion was that moralists regarded it just as sinful as some moralists of today regard the present- day abbreviation of clothes. — e Peru is to receive 10 per cent of the profits derived from the sale of skins of reptiles gathered on government lands. consists of beret, scarf, small muff and flonur worn effectively with a brown suit. 2 | | Theater Practices Should Not Annoy ‘The mest annoying sort of woman you meet at theaters is the woman who be- gins to don her hat and coat and other | outdoor acocssories during the last few minutes of the last act in order that she may save a half minute or so of time in making her exit. The man who is almost as annoying is the one who is 800 restless to remain seated during |2 single intermission, but crowds his way only to crowd back again just as the curtain is rising. In continental cities and in some theaters and opera houses in this coun- try there is a general adjournment dur- is served in the lounge during the long intermission and practically every one | takes advantage of that refreshment. |And in warm weather the audience goes outdoors for air and a smoke be- ween the acts. It is considered in bad form to eat candy during a theater performance— and this notwithstanding the fact that indispensable for a matinee party. It may be delectable, but it is not in good form. Eating peanut and sweets may |be all very well for a circus perform- ance, and one may even drink ginger pop through a straw .at a base ball game. but supposedly we are on our |good behavior at the theater and must, | for. the time being, forego the pleasures |of between meals. | So customary has it become for |women to remove their hats at the theater that when a woman in front of you has omitted to do this, you need not her if she is thereby spoiling your view of the stage. If you are a man accom- panied by a woman, then it is easier and more courteous for the woman to make the request. If a single suggestion does not produce the desired result, it is | far better to ask the usher to make the request than to enter into any unpleas- ant discussion about it. When a woman does remove her hat for your benefit, %nu should always remember to thank er. Hand clapping is the only customary method of expression of pleasure and satisfaction prevailing in this country. There is a feeling among some over- squeamish women that it is not ladylike to clap. This is a very silly idea. Such expressions of sentiment, favorable and otherwise, as hissing, stamping, whis- tling, growling, etc., should be confined to & base ball grandstand. Many Hats Needed With New Fashions One cannot slight hats this season and hope to be well dressed, because than they have been for many Sum- mers. You cannot hope to make one un- cbtrusive little hat do for all occasions and you cannot go hatless and get away with it this season, as you might Lave done a season or so ago. You will simply have to have a number of hats in your vacation wardrobe, but, fortunately, they needn't be very ex- pensive. Possibly you can heve a spe- cial hat for every daytime costume, or at least a special hat band. For the plain, wide-brimmed cloche, pineapple straw with a plain grosgrain ribbon band is enjoying a decided vogue among well dressed young women. It is at its best in natural color, but is also seen in black, navy blue or brown. Strictly speaking, a wide-brimmed straw hat of this sort is appropriate for sports clothes only, but some one somewhere hit upon the idea of wearing a natural colored pineapple straw with a dark sireet dress and the fashion has spread. Natural colored panama hats with worn with dark street dresses in pref- erence to the small, dark hat of the formal sort. Panamas are receiving a flattering amount of attention from well dressed women this season. They are of the flew cloche shape, with rather wide, drooping brim and shallow crown, banded with the conventional black belting ribbon or a very narrow band of black. In place of the black band there may be ribbon to match the dress or a narrow band of Plack fatent leath- er, and sometimes there are four em- broidered black arrows on the crown. Sailor hats have appeared here and there among thé emartest and are due for a revival. They are made of dark or light straw with moderate propor- tiored brim and crown. ‘Then there are hats of pastel-tone@ pique or linen, light-weight felts finely stitched, the new hats of perforated {’een, and ar almost infinite variety of rets. —_— A referendum recently taken by the Chamber of Commerce of* Liverpool, England, among its members and affli- liated tions showed that more than on d of the 1,000 voters fa- vored a general tariff on imports. to the aisle every time between acts, | ing the long intermission. In one little | | theater in a large American city coffee | many girls feel that a box of fudge is | feel any hesitation in politely telling' hats are important, more important | black ribbon bands are also sometimes | The long black velvet evening urap at Cushions to Figures Go With Plain Pillows Are Used Choosing Tone in BY BETSY CALLISTER. ITH a plain covered sofa or divan use figured or pat-| terned covers for the cush- | ions. With a figured material | on the lounge or divan, only plain-toned fabrics for the cushions. | This rule is a good one to follow if you want to produce the most pleasing effect | with your cushions. | A good plan in choosing cushion | covers for the lounge covered with figured material is to choose fabrics to match the various tones in the up- | holstery material. The obvious sort of | thing to do is to have the cushions | | match only the dominant tones in the | design. | | * K K % | MORE subtle effects may be gained | by choosing some tone in the figure that is less obvious, but just as) characteristic. Thus on a lounge | covered with cretonne showing large | nasturtium-colored figures against an ecru background, the orange and yel- low tones are most obvious. It is only on close scrutiny that one observes that ly shaped gray Persian trims this,, suede finish Obvious But Characteristic. black broadeloth suit. the left is trimmed with blue fox, end ~ the white galapin wrap at the right has a collar of the same fur. Fit Rooms Background and Plain - When Couch Covers Show Figures—Subtle effects Gained by Figure That Is Not | & dull plum color is used for some of the | leaves in the figured design. Cushions made of a plain-toned fabric to match . this less obvious tone will give a very pleasing effect, and may be used in - connection with others covered with .. nasturtium tones. The day of the fancy sofa cushion ™ that bore no color relationship to the lounge or chair on which it was to be , placed is fortunately long past. We no - longer feel free to give our friends sofa- cushion covers that we have made, re- . gardless of the colors and tones used in their rooms, and it is best, perhaps, to leave the choice of- the cushions to « the one who has furnished the rooms : and must live in them—and to give gifts of another sort. * ok x * . CUSHIONS of some sort are ap-. propriate in living rooms of every - description because there has never . been a time, since the dawn of history, when cushions of some sort were not.. used for the comfort of mankind. In.. fact, cushions have a more ancient history than chairs or beds and were - doubtless used before our ancestors . | thought that either was necessary. In the early history of furniture be- fore the use of upholstery cushions: " were even more important than they - are today, and many of the century-old chairs and benches that seem as we ™ view them today hopelessly hard and- uncomfortable were made soft and _ comfortable by the use of cushions. " The cushions in most cases have since vanished, but the chairs remain.™ ‘Thought should be given to the filling of the pillow. An inexpensive” filling consists of cotton batting which™* should be stuffed into a case of coarse:* material such as unbleached muslin and not directly into the outer pillow cover. Some pillows are made of & sort of silk fiber, others of horsehair, and still others of feathers or down. The most expensive pillows are filled with dowh which consists only of the very small, soft under-feathers from geese. Goose feathers and duck fea- thers of a coarser sort are used in some’ - pillows. IN deciding on the sort of pillow stuff- ing, you should consider not only.~ price but purpose. A small cushion: which is to be used for the head or to. be tucked into the back of a should be light and soft. For down or feathers are best. For large substantial pillow that is to be.. placed directly on the floor horsehair~ or cotton is satisfactory. For the sake of appearance the pillow should be stuffed rather full so that it keeps its: well rounded form on the lounge or divan, but for the sake of comfort: many persons like a pillow that is packed less fuil so that it will more easily take the contours of the body when one leans against it. It is & good idea, then, to have the formal, wel stuffed cushions as well as one or two of the softer, more comfortable sort in your collection. (Copyright, 1080 Old Blankets. SOMETIMES you can cut worn blankets so that one large blanked can be made from two old ones. This means a seam down the middle, but this does not prove a source of diffie culty. The seam should be made in the form of a flat fell done by hand and well pressed. If the blanket is simply worn at the top this can be cut off and the blanket can be made for a smaller bed. It is a good idea, in the family where there are children, not to buy new crib blankets, but to make use n‘ revamped large blankets for this pur< pose. ‘When you buy new blankets Luu will, find that they generally come pairs,, the two joined together. Most house- wives prefer to divide these double, blankets because there are times whi only one part will be needed. In this, cut them evenly and carefully bind with silk binding that is sold ex<} for this purpose. * rey