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S Napoleon id when ¥ crossed the Delaware that time, with afl the ice in it und everything, “It's all right i the summertime, in the surmertime it's lovely.” And that fs how I sometimes feel shout these sturdy, Invigorating northern winters which we get every anr This is one of the feelings I and George, that's my husband, have in common, and when 1 was talk- & about it on the telephone with Mrs. Joe Bush the other day, I found out she felt the same, too. My, aln't it awful cold, mays she, after we had out of every other tropio of conversation such as our friends, the servants, and what have doing, my dear, and ete, was I much too soon to this weather terrible, > you pretty near froze? ain’'t it awful, 1 it a lot? And she says yes, and I'll bet it will get even cold- er And just then I got the idea Mr: Goofnah was listening in on the lne. She is a terrible nosey woman, spreads anything she hears, I says to Mrs. Bush, we it's so ful cold T and Ceorge have about going down to vou b but {t hang up. A she says, d 1 don't you f says, yes, aw- been thinking Palm And Mrs. Bush says my, that would be lovely, and about then I heard Junfor coming in from school, so I says well, good hye dear, I'll let you further, and 1 hung up and I could hear M ofnah do the same. So 1 thought well, I got the sat- isfaction of glving that woman some- thing worth Ing to anyways. And even so I had told Mabel Bush the truth, 1 and George certainly had bee s _a lot about going to Pa We had read about it and seen the photos of society wom- en watching each other and the bath- down there, and pictures of yachts and Sunday papers, and wa ce thought a lot about go Think however, was about as far as expected to get, but that was nobody’s business only our own. But there Is other spotlight spots in win- ter besides down South, and it was only that very night that I and George got Into one of them. know 1. « % k% that Doctor Salary, a into e office and not go out he you take will get Miss De- , and we will go ey out da I guess Geo. would of got out of it somehow in the mean- time Miss Demeanor, she's that bottle blond, had called me up, and natural- Iy I had sald yes, and so when Geo called me from the office and told me cared to go, I had it all fixed, and so I says dear, do lets, why we are getting to Ye & regu pla dead ones, why not go, a tepping will do the both of us good? And so Geo. says oh dear, all right, for the luvva tripe I s would bo fed up with that kind of thing at your age. And so that was all nicely settled, and he hung up. and I went to the closet to ses had I any clothes to wear which Miss De- meanor hadn't seen them yet Well., it surs was cold that night, and I will admit our Iiving room didn't look 80 bad to me as it some- times does, but Geo. got out the filv- ver and we started. It seems the Doo knew dandy place out at Wreckem Bluffs, cailed Cash Inn, a regular knockout of a place, and he and Miss Demeanor was to meet us there. But they didn't meet us on our errival. However, wa was recelved, all right As s0on as we foupd the place, which would of been hard to miss, on ac- count it was all 1it up like a green- on v | T THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. 0, 'JAN’UARI’Y' 18, 1925—PART 5. UTSTRETCHED PALMS A NECESSARY EVIL Nina Wilcox Putnam Describes Her Substitute for Palm Beach. il <3 8 “IT WAS A KIND OF BAND THAT HAS EVERYTHING IN IT BUT 17'17“-: KITCHE! housa afire, it being one of these' middle-aged buildings which looks a whole lot better at night in full eve- ning dress than it does in the day- light, well anyways, we was cordially greeted by a feller at tha door that took our fiivver from George, prac- tically by main force and give him & check. Well naturally T tried to leave my coat on the same check with Geo., it being one of them little economics we generally practice. But nothing doing this time, and when a woman swiped my wrap offen me, I could ses where four bits was the very least {t was gonner cost me to get it out of hock * ok kX WWELL: 1 come out of the beauty garage and joined Geo., but the Doc and Miss Demeanor wasn't no- wheres in sight yvet. However, there was a awful mob in the place, 50 Geo. says well I guess | better speak for a table 50's to be sure we get one. So he goes over to a feller who looked like he was afrald he might be mistaken for a guest, and he slip- ped this feller a piece of money, and the feller pretended not to notice it, but he remembered to keep ahold of it, and George says how about a table Cap? And the feller says why I'm just going off duty, but I'll get ahold of somebody to take care of you. Well, that certainly was a mouth- ful Geo. really did need somebody to take care of him, giving away money in advance like that. But anyways the feller took Geo. over to where the red plush rope was keeping the public from getting In and says pst, and pret- ty soon another balooney in a open- faced suit come up, and Geo. says to him how about a table. He says it in a purely friendly, not at all commercial manner this time. And this new dickey bird says have you & reservation sir? And George says only In my own mind, old thing. And so the cap shook his head kinda hopeless and he says very sorry, but I'm afraid I can’t do a thing. So Geo. canceled the reservations in his mind and got out his bank roll and pruned it back a little, slipping the trimmings in the general dire tion of the cap's hand Well, this bird didn’t notice he was given anything, either, but like the rest of human creatures, he had instincts of cash preservation. And the meres act of closing his fist around that {nanimate but never in- active piece of green paper done & remarkable thing to his brain. He at once remembered & table over acrost the room. Well, I and Geo. took the table, what there was of it, and it was all mussed up. So Geo. made a few deaf and dumb signs at the buss boys that went dashing past but ap- parently, althougk they acted both deat and dumb, they was not to be flagged by anything but the sight of a half a henry laying on the dirty tablecloth Hot Bozo! One of 'em heard that even with the jazz band going. And while action was being taken, and also the half a dollar, in come Dr Salary and Miss Demeanor, terrible sorry they was late, and etc. Well, they set down and we got about six captains and waiters around us and we give the army orders for a little supper. Then when the order was given, why conversation was started by the doc, and he wanted to know didn't we think this was a very taking little place, and we says ves, It cer- talnly is. And he says he thought the captains was such nice fellers, especially the one on duty tonight. and didn’'t we think he was un- usually attentive, and Geo. says yes, he thought It was quite touching. * ik AND then the orchestra commenced working again. It was the kind of band that has everything in it but | the kitchen stove, and there are min- | utes when a person ain't so sure but | that maybe they have got that in| as well. Talking in the face of it would of been like chatting during a bombardment on the Marne { Well, this being the case, we got up and danced on each others feet and some says excuse me, but others didn’t, the same as usual in them crowded places, and after a while the colored men who was causing all this agony weakened again, and just in time, on account I was doing the same. The Doc and Miss Demeanor ac- tually seemed to enjoy {t, but they are engaged, it mukes & big differ- ence. Very soon Geo. savs some bright original remark to the effect well tomorrow is another day I guess the poor working man had better go home. And it was remark- able how easy we got the check. After walting % hr. for it we got up and made out like we was going to leave. They brought the bad new fast enough then. In fact, it was brought by about seven or twelve waiters and cuptains and generals and etc. and It seems where they had all done their little bit towards mak- ing things bright and happy for us and plainly cxpected us to do the same for them : Well, the boys #one eo, and we redeemed our coat. and then there was only the cars t« get out of stor- age, the doorman to tip, and we was through for the night. O E WELL it was terrible cold driving home, and I and Geo. didn't talk much, like any normal married couple under the same conditions. But what with trying to keep warm 1 got to thinking of Florida again, and w grand it would be to go where a one-plece bathing suit was just useful in January as in July. I got to dreaming about the long moss that grows on the trees, and how each day you could see the land swells taking a dip in the ocean ditto. The thought of walking around Palm Beach or Miami with Geo. fn whi pants and me with & lovely un-wash- jle wash dress sitting on the veranda of the Royal Pounceuponia eating fresh hibiscus, or watching the nuts in the cocoanut grove, made me sick I wanted it so bad. Unless I could go thers next minute, I wished there wasn't no such plac. I personally myself don't care for snakes nor alligator bags, but right that minute with the north wind blowing all tha powder off my nose as 1925 MUDDLES SHOWN IN FASHION SHOPS . Wallace Irwin To Fditor The Star: EAREST SIR: Miss Annle An- azuma, Japanese schoolgirl, have now got marriaged to one of our best bootlegw families, so she spent most all her time now in Paris where she help France pay her natlonal debt. She learn that languidge so fastly that she can now talk it almost as good as I English. Yestdy pm. while walking I ob- serve something approaching to me. I think it were female because of stockings which I saw too much. What was left of her skirt she wore in such way she look like she trying to set down all time. Also thers were a hat with chicken feet stuck in it. Her eyellds was painted green & she got menkey-hair pinned to the cor- ners of her overcont. Otherwisely I could see that it were little Annio Anazuma what used to be seated on my knee In years of yore when I had one. All people, horses & taxthacks stop up & look while she approach. 19 policemen enrush forwards, expecting to arrest her, but faint way before they got there. “Ah, Togo!" she holla stylishly. “Comment are vous this matin? O la-la-la-la-la eto plus 2 las extra! L'Amerique est une tres hick country, nest pass? And how do you like la costume de walking I are wearing this p.m.7" “I think maybe you put it on back- wards,” I snuggest with blushing in 1y face. “Ezackly!” she narrate. “This robe de street are bullt to look that ways. The befront are behind & the visa versa befront. This give lady appear- ance of going away from what she are coming at, thusly adding muchly to her cowcattish behavior. This gownd were designed by the famus La Prune of Paris & made a great sensation at the Long Chump Race- course of recently. & Togo, I tell you something, if you will not whisper it to annyhody axept the Society Re- porter of several newspapers.” I stand therd promising reveren- § tally. “Then I tell'” she influenza. “This Monsure la Prune, famus dressmake of Parls, have selected me out for my fashionable figure. But pussibly, be- cause of yr long ‘American residence, you do not know what a fashionable figure are.” 0000003 are a fashionable figure. by golly,” 1 administer. “For dressmake pupposes,” she ol- Iteute, “a fashionable fixure must look Like 10000003 without having it So this celebratted artiste, Monsure La Prune, promus let me wear all the cloth out of his shop!” “You must wear 2ca that much un- less catching cold,” I deliver. XK GJRIGS & dates!” she snibber. “What you k#ow about such educated things? From a poor seam-sewer in that famus La Prune menagerie dn’t hold even them two products against the place. The next morning that Bush called up as per usual Well my dear, she s, it's all over town about you and George are going to Palm Beach, she saye n’t that bs perfactly lovely, I cer- tainly wisht I could go, don't ¥ou need a maid or something, she says, s is so original, oh do tske me along, she says, I'd do anything to get there, with the lovely flowers and the ocean and the four hundred and the beautiful spreading palms. Well, I stopped her right there sten Mabel, T says, we have nda postponad the idea of that trip, I says, belleve you me dear, I says, last night I seen all the spreading palms I want to for quite a while to come! Mrs. Joe (Copyright, in Japanese Schoolboy Letter Gives Togo’s Experience. herb rotn “ALL PEOPLE, HORSES & TAXIHACKS STOP UP & LOOK WHILE SHE APPROACH.” (French for dressmaking) T have now became a mannikin.” “What are a mannikin® I require with Ed Wynne expression. “A mannikin are a girlikin dressed in a French muddle gownd.” she ex- plan. “Pleass notice trimming on this costume de street I are now wearing.” Bhe whirl 2ce. 9 police what had fainted off pick up their hats and run AWAY. “You will notice the upper story or mezzonine walst are trimmed with Swiss whalebone held up with a palr of Louis XIV suspenders. The skirt (for such it i{s) are made out of a red bendanna hankerchif cut In % with 2qrts of creme de menthe around the edges.” T look. Isee. Istand up. “What bout your hat?" I ask to know. “Oh la-la-la-la-& lots more!" ehe say 80 with roller eyes. “That are not a hat. It are a chapeau or lidd. You see its remarkabilious expression of color? I will tell you how it got that way. It are made entirely out of cigar coupons what have been dipped in blue varnish and fried slowly over an electric curling fron. It have been fastened carelessly together with diamond pins. A pair of r;u.,m.— et on each side give it that chie 5 While speaking I commence prom- enade down street with Miss Annle azuma, pretending I meraly knew her slightly. Enlarged mobb of crowd march beside of us, singing Bananna Songs & taking off shoes to throw at us. It make me feel quite rud “Tell me thus, Miss Annls Anasuma,” T dib, “who you expect wear such cloth- ing outslde of Insane Hotel ™ Oh everybody & all,” she dangle. “"Next! Fou know,” I.drizzle, “ladles will be Ing gloves on thelr she notate hottily. ssible?” I axclam. Paris dressmakers are sav- ing that style for 1926." By this moment we come up to en- larged store with sign Mile Sardine, Modes, Styles & Affectations. You wish come in & observe some more views of 1925 muddles for ladies?" require Miss Annie Anazuma with happy evesight 1 were going to funeral of my Aunt Hattle Ekazema,” I report, “but could find few moments to prepare for that sadness, Therefors we walk into very ewelled society room filled with ladies twisting theirselves to see how stylish. Several sall-woman was there to say How Sweet while helping them spend money. One fatty lady come out with her en- tire personality containing a ostrich- colored waltzing costume with split pea embroldery. “Oh | ! ! 1 holla safl-woman with hands. How Deer you Look ! ! ! faybe I got it on upeide down, pose Hon. Fatty lady with e “You have! Indeedy you have! !" ex- claim sall-woman. “That are the way they will be worn this yr. Monsure La Prune have arranged it that w: Everything will be worm upside down this Season. Even your hair. You are puffict in that dress. It give you that insane look which every well dressed woman must wear by command of Paris 1823. It will look too Sweet with a pair of duck-feather stockings & wooden shoes made of mahogany with silver nails. If you wish be right in the latest rages of Paris you must wear a sword & a false musstash of baby lamb dyed blue . , . N R. EDITOR, did you ever have any fits? I enjoy 3 right there where I was & were gladdened to be fetched out into daylight where I could walk lame. Pretty soonly 1 comeup to my Cousin Nogl who I also could not know hardly because on himself he were wearing such a suit of clothes as ien't. His pants was cut up to his shoulders & around him was wrapped a vest cut so short around the stummick it look slightly like a double-breaated chest-protector. And such a pants! They was just like a pair of skirts walking. “The clown you stoled that from,” I damb, “will get sad tonight because of nothing to wear in circus." . “T did not stoled this from clowns, snarrel Nogi for prides. “It were gave to me by a English actor who say it are going out of style in London, thers *A % fors will be very fashionabls n Amer in 1925 “I dare you to sipprise ms!” T reiiz “Then you do mot like this ciothes he say so while ewasging. “I have just been looking at s for ladies 1925, I puddl seeing it, I think everything else lo tame & domenticlk. What happen ladles every year?" heated, “that they s money to look w g intelle cide 1 pussible t that a love. every a new 50 beautiful 1 too ¥ gentiemen of with leaping are reason, | “Ho & Hum! epite of all th I Fashioned Style.” With music?” singsonging following c lection: re weerr of bootlegging pleasures. descent t of heart. That for fashion.” & grone. “In long for Old Nog! whit a For this is where I want o go on: o To an cld Fashioned Eden I of old fashioned Eves With old fashioned sport old fashioned makes me worse t Hoping you are the same, Yours tru HASHIMURA TOGO. (Copyright, 19; Nanking’, Chinese Home of King’s, Is the World's Big’gest Walled New and Old Orient Appear Side by Side in Community Long Conspicuous in History. LAST OF NOTABLE This article, written from the city in which Frank G. Carpen- ter died, June 18, 1924, concludes the lifework of a famous jour- nalist, America’s foremost travel writer, and one of the originators of the newspaper syndicate sys- tem. In a career which covered a period of 45 years, Mr. Car- penter had visited practically every country on the globe, had made 30 trips across the Atlan- tic, and at the time of his death in China was on his third tour of the world. The Sunday Star has had the privilege of publish- ing his weekly articles for many vears, and Dudley Harmon, edi- e of Mr. Carpenter, in sending the concluding article, state “I desire to express my per- sonal appreciation of the cordial courtesy and co-operation always accorded to us by The Star, and to thank you for the gratifying manner in which you have, from week 1o week. presented the story of Mr. Carpenter's travels to his many devoted followers among your readers.” i SERIES. torial assoc BY FRANK Nanking, G. CARPENTER. China. of the fast 1 have come biggest walled world and one istory, improvements of tury are making| e that was 600 st was a baby. arrounded by walls that old when seeking & short the ancestors of discovered mous in Columbus route t the prese America instead Province, s Torth fron bank of the of the ¢ all China and | for ¢ the relgn of the 1 & Lo, the empire. & been seven | of a kingdom, and for before the Ming dynasty ity of great political Im- The ame Nanking means capital,” just as Peking orthern capital.” Nankin wrapped all the and grandeur of China of | He ved and died some of the f Ming emperors. Here were staged some of China’s numerous rebel- of the past, and it was here that | Sen’ took his oath of office first President of the Republic na. Tut day sees little | of the glorious Nanking of a thousand vears ago. In its stead is a shrunken | el in a vast area of land made up for the most p of farms, and having a populat 1 of only 400,000 | that does not anywhere near fill up the space within its walls. trade nt-d wit Chinese, ital of Kiangsu | located 183 miles the =outh | Tt is one the pas ous set | to grinning, undisciplined soldiers halt- ed me in the rallroad station. He demanded that I show my special passport, which it is necessary to have in travellng in the Interior of China, and inquired if I possessed any firearms. It was with much diffi- culty that I dissuaded him from ex- amining my baggage In search of weapons, and he finally permitted me to proceed. An automobile took me from the station to my hotel just outside of the entrance gate of tho city. We drove first through the smail suburb of Slakwan, which lles immediately out- side the walls surrounding Nanking on the side toward the river. On the opposite, or north shore, is Pukow, the southern terminus of the ralroad from Teintsin. It is connected by a ferry service with the Shanghal- Nanking ratlroad. Most of the forsign busineis hous have their establishments in Siakwan, but foreigners are also permitted to reside and do business in Nanking proper. Ocean steamers call at the port of Nanking, and until the build- ing of the two rallroads I have men- tioned practically all of the freight entering_or leaving the city was handled by boats and barges on the Yangtse River. As T drove along, 1 saw the elec- trically lighted homes, the open shops and the busy throngs in the streets as In contrast with the countless wars and revolutions which had been fought out on this spot. It was in the year 1657 that the great pirate Koxinga in an attempt unseat the Manchus from the i LIETRAY LA, 5 hen 1 arrived at Nanking = Chinese captain with a squad of eight throne and restors the Ming dynasty lald slege to the city for 20 days, only to have his horde attacked on the night of the twentleth and sev- eral thousand of his pirate followers massacred. I thought, too, of the Taipings who captured the city and held it as their capital for 11 years, * oK * ¥ ANKING has been a walled city since the fifth or sixth century, the present walls being bullt about 500 years ago. They are 24 miles long, from 40 to 60 feet high, and so broad on top that two automobiles could pass on them without danger of touching each other. It is stated that there are no less than 4,000 walled towns in this coun- try, and I can readily belfeve this is 50 from what 1 have seen. All are bullt in about the same manner. The materials used are stons and large| burned bricks of a bluish-gray color. | These bricks are each about 15 inches long, 5 inches wide and three Inches thick. They are put together in a solid masonry In the shape of two| walls running parallel with each other and the space between them filled In with earth and stones. This is stamped down upon its top and a paved roadway is made, along which armed guards used to walk and upon which cannon were mounted. Before the Chinese had guns they used to keep plles of stones on top of the walls ready to be thrown down upon the enemy. The length of these walls is much greater than is necessary to inclose | seems to be to see that the pas the cities. I have Seen none less than R EREREERIIES . ] - IMPROVEMENT OF CHINESE "AGRICULTURE." A and this wall of Nan- les in length. The city occupies only a small part of the in- closure, and the wall runs up and down over a rolling country, taking in small farms and market gardens, many of which stand upon the site of the greater Nanking of the past The distance a the inclosure from one wall to the other is more than § miles and there is room enough to accomodate double its present pop- ulation of less than one-half miilion. In the days of the Ming emperors the city had more than twice as many people, and land that is now farmed is sprinkled with archways, that mark the sites of bridges in the greater Nanking. The ancient city has for the most part crumbled away to dust, and one feels that he is in the open country, rather than on the site of one of the great capitals of China. But fuppose vou join me in a ride through the Nanking of today. I have engaged an American car, which is now waiting outside the hotel door. Our Chinese chauffeur is dressed in a white coat, and a chauffeurs cap fits snugly on his closely shaven head He {s accompanied by a footman who sits by his side and whose chief duty engers 10 miles long, king s 24 m do mnot shaw” or a tip. As we drive from the hotel T am constantly frightened, for we narrow- 1y mi veral pedestrians, who seem to be even more reckless than. jay- walkers at home. My guide explains to me that in China there super- stition that every person has a devil constantly following him, and that if “THE AGRICULTURAL DEPARTMENT OF NANKING UNIVERSITY HAS ABOUT 200 ACRES OF LAND UNDER CULTIVATION, AND EXPERIMENTS WITH VARIOUS CROPS ARE CARRIED ON FOR THE he crosses before an automobile just in time to save himself from injury the car will run over and kill the devil which 1s dodging his footsteps. The people on foot seem to view with haughty disdain the many vehicles In the road and make It necessary for the chauffeurs to sound their horns every five seconds and to turn this way and that to escape Injuring a Chinese. Sometimes they even have to bring their cars to a dead stop, so littls attention is pald by the pedestrians to keeping out of harm's way. X xR S we pass through the principal gate to the city over a fine ma- cadamized road 1 recall that in an earlier visit I rode from the river to the town on a donkey, which climb- ed up hill and down, half swimming in pools and wading in mud all the way. Then beggars lined the road- side near the gate. Today there are none, and every one seems to he work- ing. Neatly uniformed policemen are now stationed at the busiest street crossings. When I had the car stop- ped to photograph one, he directed me to move on, as 1 was holding up the traffic. When I explained that I only wished to stop a moment to take his picture, he remonstrated: “I am Just a man. There is no difference between you and me. Why should you take my photograph?” I found this argument unanswerable and it characteristic of the new Chinase. are resenting m and more implication that they are curios- The road is lined on either side with new, modern buildings, but we are soon in an open that is thinly populated. We cross bridges marking the intersection of former streets which have now become cultivated | fields, and in place of rows and rows of buildings there are patches of vegetables under cultivation, or clumpe of bamboo. Billboards dis- playing lurid posters have been erect- | ed here and there in the fields. Most | of them advertise cigarettes, and the praises of a popular American brand written both in English and Chiness characters make an incongruous plc- | ture. | Shortly we arrive agaln at a more populated and busier section. Here trade of all kinds is going on. In the { open shops are hung up cooked fowls and various kinds of vegetables are for sale. We stop for a moment at a school- house, a darkened one-room struc- ture, in which some 30 boys and girls of ab8lit 10 years of age are studying the classics of the time of Confucius. There are 15 desks, wtih 2 pupils at each one, and their volces rise in a sing-song chant as they study aloud. 1 pick up one of the books and notice that it is printed in the new language of One Thousand Characters, We soon reach the Drum Tower, a large red, two-story building with a tower on the top. The first tower, located in what is now the center of the city, was erected in 1092 A.D., less than 30 years after Willlam the Conqueror landed in BEngland. The present massive structure was bullt by Emperor Hungwu of the Ming dynasty, in preparation for a battle against a force of rebela He placed in it an enormous drum, which could be heard at a great distance and served N “IN NANKING ARE RUINS OF THE OLD EXAMINATION HALLS, WHICH CONSISTED OF TINY CELL:! IN WHICH CANDIDATES FOR ACADEMIC AND POLITICAL HONORS WERE COMPELLED TO R MAIN FOR THREE DAYS, WRITING THEIR PAPERS ON CHINESE CLASSICS.” as a signal for his soldlers to march against the enemy. Near this tower is the North Star Hill, surmounted by a Taoist temple, We climb up this hill over a beaten path worn smooth by the feet of countless worshipers of past gener- ations, and from there get a view of the whole city. We can see the diz- tant hills, shaped llke a dragon's back, which caused Chu Hung Wo to bulild his capital here. Chu started life as a beggar, but he organized a rebelllon which enabled nim to conquer China. He founded the Ming dynasty, under which were accomplished the greatest things that the Chinese have ever done in archi- tecture and public improvements. The dragon, you know, is the im- perial animal of China, and it is sup- posed to bring luck. According to the anctent beliefs a dragon can do any- thing. Tt can make itself as big as an elephant or as small as a gnat, can build up empires and throw down kings. Some years ago I was in China just before an eclipse of the moon was to occur. The Peking Gazette soberly announced that the people should turn out and make a great noise on the night of the eclipse, as it was sald that the dragon would then try to swallow the moon, and he should be scared away. Well, the country here at Nanking is shaped just like a great dragon, and the Emperor said: “If I can bulld my capital on the dragon's back it will last forever.” The result was that he moved to Nanking and made it for a time the greatest city of China. He bullt the present walls and planned also an outer wall which should be 90 miles long, but he got no farther than the first pillars of this before he dled. ¥ %k % OT far away lies the south gate, just Inside of which remains all that is left of the Nanking of old. Let | us saunter through this old city. We shall find that here, as elsewhere in China, the new is subtly replacing the old. Here you will see a dentist's shop fitted up with the newest of western equipment, while aoross the street an old medicine man is peddling his wares, consisting of bits of wild animals. We inspect the bears' claws and the tigers' heads which he has for sale. How they are to be used I do not know. Notlcing a crowd at a booth mext to him, we edge our way through and find it centers around a man who is telling the fortunes of the passers-by for 2 cents a fortune, The cxowd pre- on the sldewalk | sumably thinks this the better and cheaper. way of assuring themselves as to their good health. I ask to have my fortune told. After juggling little sticks on which written many Chin haracters th seer hands me about & dozen of them, of which he tells me to select one. I do this, but am unable to understand him as he makes known the result of his reading of the stick I chose Next we come to an old Confucian Temple. As we approach the gate wa notice a large fire burning in an oven of mortar and clay about 10 feet high and 8 feet wide. See that young Chi- nese girl toddling up to the oven and placing therein a piece of paper cov- ered with Chinase characters. Every temple of Confucius had one of these fires burning before it, and those who feed its flames with paper on which is any kind of writing in the Chinese language do S0 to “accumu- late merit” Entering the temple we are struck by its simplicity. Across the back are three large tablets with 72 smaller tablets around the sides of the room. In front of one of them an old man is offering up prayers and burning incense. On the tablets in Chinese characters there are inscrip- tions such as (Continued on Sixth Page)