Evening Star Newspaper, December 2, 1923, Page 81

[—————— Formal Blouses for Street and Home Interest American Women < PLAIN BLOUSE OF BEIGE CREPE DE CHINE WITH SQUARE NECK AND SHORT SLEEVES EDGED WITH A PADDED BIAS BAND. THE HIP GIRDLE IS LOOSELY TIED AT ONE SIDE; IN FRONT IS A MONOGRAM CUT IN SILVER.. THIS IS A W IDEA FROM FRANCE. crease as the season advances. With or without tailored suits they are | worn in all the waking hours. | The Paris woman has revived the American fashion of other days in wearing the plain blouse with a wool tailored suit, She adopts crepe de chine, the flat, sturdy weave, for the garment, fashioning it on the famous Vionnet model with & square neck opening formed by hemstitched bands brought over the shoulders from the ‘back, and holding it in at the hips by another hemstitched band. Americans adopt this blouse, but they vary it more than does the French woman. We adopt more for- mal types because we wear tailored suits In the afternoon, aven to places of gayety, -when by .removing -the Jacket we ‘display the kind of over- hipyse that aide:the ekirt in hecem- {ing" & costiime.' - This fashion is an aounpmival ‘gne. - Tt saves ua the ex- Dense of a suit for the street plus & frock fo¥ ugder-the-roof pceasions. Also it saves us from being nxaw&t; ed by the hest of ouy hoyses. The Europeans are not troubled .n thix vespect, . & ’The formal blouse continues to mateh the skirt; that 1s,1¢ it-is well chosen. Crepe de chine is the fre- quent cholce. Gold embrofdery dons with sequins, gold galloon arranged in natrrow bands—and mot too many of them—small, flat embrofdery in the Peking stitch dome in orleptal colors, Russian embroldery dona hy applying tiny pleces of colored cloth or velvet to the surface with metallic threads are methods of ornamentation that are approved. Indian printed silks, soft and nlass tic, ‘are offered & the best blouse materials for those who need Variety. Huck: biguses gre gimply made, some- tiges with short glpeves, the kind we thought- had been - obliterated from fashion, but which go serenely on thefr plezsant and comfortable way. 1ang sleaves have turnover cuffs with link buttons when the blouse is for strict atreet wear or for sports. One of the new tricks on the sleeves of formal bloyses is to adopt the hand- kerchiet- ideg_by twisting a narrow scarf of the fabrie avound the wrist and, tylng it'Inte twe handkerchief ends. This fashion originated with Vionnet of Paris this autumn ang ia not generally known. The Lanvin overblouse of pliabla silver cloth goes on its path undis. turbed by rivi It has & large em- broidered motif in front, and is as simple as a baby's slip, despite its cost. It s a bit harsh, hawever. Not every woman can leok In the mirror approvingly when metal cloth covers her figure. R THE newly developed bodices In siim lines and small armholea eall for brassieres on many figures that have not needed them before. What women amusingly call “thelr extra tires," 1 meaning the thick rolls of flesh pushed above the walst by the tight elaatic girdles which take the place of gorsets, cannot be left to hang as they will under the bodices that hug the body. New brassieres, speclally made fo these emergencies,sare fitted over the waistline of a corset with insets of elastic and slight baones, and garters, also to keep it down. The result is that | women are more harnemsed and com- pressed than when they wore regular corsets. Sturdy fabricsa such as broadcloth and velvet have come into their own again for blouses. They are worn with tailored suits by those who dread the cold; they are placed under day coats i and above separate skirts by those who ONE OF THE NEWEST BLOUSES WITH MONOGRAM. delight In varie! Both of these fab- rica are reduced to their least weight and are rich sisters of the sturdy weaves of other days. Hroadcloth Is not limited to overblousea It is turned into emart separate skirta for street and for sports. Flat crepe de chine, however, has lost none of its prestige for blouses. The acceptance of the Cambodian allhouette with ita stiffened ingerts aver the hipa haa brought about the wearing | of laose tunics girdled a trifla below the walstline. The material below is pulled Into godet effect at each side. ‘Wamen like this centour as a change | from the over-popular hipband. The | hem of the overblouse 13 gayly bordered | with applled cloth and metal, with em- | breldery or giit bralding. The girdle | is & length of tarnished gold galloon or | thiek braid with small tassels on the ends. Other galloons are used. | kind one gets at the curtaln counters | make an individual touch. They are often of brocade with metal threads. They can be used as hem, neck and | The | frock firat. wrist decoration for the blouse. If so, do not repeat them in the girdle. Con- trast metal braid with them. As girdles are omitted from long and short coats and one-plece frocks, the woman who likes them has her sole change on L blouse. * ¥ % % NE of the new Paul Poiret after- noon frocks in black satin gets its decoration from a curious kind of flat glit cloth that resembles gilt paper so well that one must handle it to dis- caver the difference. The frock is as simple as plain cloth can be, and the gilded line, about a Chinese arabesque around the neck, across the front and at the edge of the eharply pointed elbow sleeves women have copled it with a paint brush and a can of fine gilt. The ef- fect is very good. Try it on an old We cavil no more at the chin-cover- ing collar. grace as though we never said that an inch wide, forms | So amusing 1s this idea that certain daring | 1t 18 accepted with as much | ool g anter ——t GREEN WOOL JERSEY BLOUSE FOR SPORTS, STITCHED ALL OVER WITH SELF-COLORED SILK THREAD. THE PETER PAN COLLAR AND CUFFS ARE OF WHITE LINEN. |fashion could not reinstate it in our | generation. What boasters and weak- | lings we are. Merely & change of wind in fashion blowing across’ the Atlantic ocean, and we declare we like what it brings. Frocks, wraps, overblouses, each carry the high collar, usually fur-faced | |or fur-edged. The former plan is ‘(er, for no one intends to keep |collar over the neck when under roof. When it is flared backward and |downward it looks immensely well | when buiit of peltry. Soft fur is used | for such facing. The kind that might | have been shorn from a mouse or kit- ten Is best. Where it does come from none of the furriers tell. It usually goes by the name of summer ermine, which, of course, it is not. Russia is not sending us much of her empirical peitry these days. Little animals which | thought they were safe from wom vanity now masquerade under splendid nams, ‘Wraps carry enormous collars of fur to match the cuffs used as muff: bet- the the THIS SEASON. { These hide the nose as well @s the |chin and make sumptuous revers that lm)ltale capes when they are thrown back. | There's a new finish to coats which iis rather amusing. It is in the form of WHITE FLANNEL SPORT BLOUSE THAT GOES TO PALM BEACH. IT IS EMBROIDERED IN CHINESE RED AND HAS A RED CRA- { VAT. THE HELMET HAT IS OF THE FLANNEL AND EMBROID- | ERY, WHICH CARRIES OUT ONE OF THE TRICKS OF FASHION kindergarten plaiting, such as children do. Strips of cloth run in and out wide slashes cut in the fabric. This can be done as a separate band or right on the foundation. (Copyright, 1923.) ‘Three Countries Had Influence in Founding of Czechoslovakia BY FRANK G. CARPENTER. Prague, Czechoslovakia. HAVE just returned from a lun- cheon with Dr. Edward Benes at the Hradchin, the enormous pal- ace of the kings of Bohemia on the high, green-walled bluff over- looking the wide, deep Moldau River which winds its way through this capital of Czechoslovakia. The palace is hundreds of years old. It is of vast extent, contalning huge building after bullding, connected by tun- uels, surrounding the Cathedral of St. Vitus and running several hundred feet above and a| thousand feet or 8o along the river, overlooking the city. It has not only the offices of the chlef departments of the new republic, but the homes of the president, Dr. Masaryk, and of Dr. Benes, the minister of foreign af- fairs. Dr. Benes' palace is opposite the cathedral and it was on the third floor over his offices that we talked for several hours about this new na- tion, which has just ing as one of the live, virile powers of the world. Every one has heard of Dr. Edward Benes, and we read of him In the newspapers every week. He was one of the live figures at the peace eon- frence of Versailles, and is a part of every active conservative movement goIng on In Central Europe today. If President Masaryk is the George Washington of Czechoslovakia, Dr. Benes may be rightly called its Thomas Jefferson and Alexander Hamilton combined. He was one of the originators and organizers of the new nation. He was the massive | prung into be- | father of the Little Jugo-Sla- via, Roumania and to some ex- tent, Poland; and he is recognized as the leader in the republican move- ment which has changed Central Eu- rope from a land or feudal kings and aristocratic land barons to one of democractes risen, taken over the countries, and are ruling themselves to .an greater extent than we are. Born on a farm in the heart of Bo- hemia, at the age of twelve he started out to earn his own living, He put himself through the University |of Prague where he was star_foot |ball player and then went to Paris |where he studied at the Sorbonne. | He completed his schooling In Berlin |and London, while acting as the for- {eign correspondent for a Prague newspaper and later became a pro- |tessor of sociology at the University |of Prague. He was twenty-four years |old when the war broke out and he then began to scheme for the in- dependence of his country. He or- ganized a secret service soclety which gave information to the allies and | did some sabotage work and just as |the Austrian police were about to |arrest him, he slipped past the sen- |tries and escaped to Switgerland. |Here he spent some time at Geneva with Dr. Masaryk, his old professor, and the two went to Parls together, where in company with Gen. Stefanek they laid the plans which finally re- | sulted in the creation of the republic |of Czechoslovakia, Ever since then | Dr. Benes has been the live, active {leader of the new nation and now “THE SLOVAK NATIONAL COSTUME IS GAY WITH BRIGHT EM- BROIDERY. THE SLOVAKIANS ARE A RACE OF FARMERS, AS ln.. CONTRASTED WITH THE INDUSTRIAL CZECHS.” where the people have | even { Dr. Edward Benes Gives Inside Story of the Birth of His Nation—A Tale of Siberia, Wash- ington and Paris—A ‘Modern Thomas Jefferson—How the New Government Compares With tral Europe. at thirty-eight he Is recognized as the dominant statesman of Central Europe. A you read this You probably plc- ture to yourself & man of the statue of our late President Harding, the dignity of Secretary Hughes, and |the welght of Lioyd (leorge. You do not see straight. met and shook hands with me in the * ¥ % most demoeratic manner, {s not more | |than five feet six Inches tall and he | weighs less than 125 pounds, Lean and wiry with a broad Slav forehead and bright gray eyes, which snap and laugh as he talks, he is the soul of simplicity and as plain In his ways as any of hia clerka. At the lunch- eon for instance, an elabarate affair of wines and several caurses, I no- ticed he was very abetemlous and that he drank only milk and later when the liquers and cigarettes were passed, he said he did not smoke or drink and when asked why, he re- plied: “I am a diplomat and I have to deal with all sorts of public mat- ters and delicate situations, and I need all of my brains unmixed with liquor.” . . in conversation, Dr. Benes is an in- tellectual dynamo, sending off spark after spark as.he talks, never at a loss for a word, and never backward or cautious in saylng just what he thinks. Ad they say In Alaaka: “His wishbone is not where his backbone should be.” Our talk was in English. It began by my asking to know in a nutshell how the new nation of Czechoslovakia was born. Said Dr, Benes: “The birth of this republlc was un- like that of any in history, it took place far away outside its boundaries, and three great countries had a part in its conception. One was the United States, where in your capital, Wash- ington, Dr. Masaryk wrote the de- claration of Independence and pre- pared the conmstitution. Another was Siberla where Gen, Stefanek was acting as the head of an army of Czechs and the third was France, where in Paris I was stationed to do what I could to persuade the allled pPowers to recognise the republie, an independent political entity and to organize armies to ald in fighting the Germans and Austrians. “The birth was not an easy one," continued Dr. Benes, “and it had all the pangs of great labor. 'France, Great Britain anc Italy were afrald of the establishmen: of a new prin- clpality in the heart of Central Eu- rope. They feared it meant that they might have to march their armles to Prague to sustain it, and it was only after great argument that we were able to show them that such an &c- tlon would be of great help in under- mining the enemy. France came firat, then Great Britain, then Italy and a Uttls later the United States recog- nized cur independence. We at once called for volunteers from the Czechs and Slovaks. They came from Ameri- ca and the prison camps and else- where all over Europe, and we soon had three armies in the fleld. One was in France, one wag in Italy and one under Gen, Stefamely in far-off Ble The Dr. Benes who | berfa. Our men fought well and It was their red, patriotic blood that baptised the child. “The feeling between the countries is growing better and better. Austria has already established trade rela- tions and we are doing what we can to put her on her feet. We shall be able 1o do business with Germany as soon as their money will enable them to do business with any one. As it is now, we have the somewhat doubtful ad vantage of a currency like that of | the gold money countries. At the close of the war our money and that of Germany were near a parity. Now the Czech crown s worth several thousand marks. Similar differences exist as to the currencies of Austria, Hungary, Poland and the lands of the “What are your relations with the United States?" “They are of the most friendly na- ture. There are a million or’ so Czechoslovakians In the United States and they are personally interested in us. Our president, Dr. Masaryk, mar- ried an American woman, and during his many visits to your country he acquired a warm sympatahy for American culture and the American people. We feel that you have been our friends during and since the war. We have borrowed money of you, which we expect to pay, and we want you to come over and trade with us to & greater extent than yoy have done before. The relations between the two countries cannot be teo intimate from our point of The ideals of the two countries are the same and we ahould like to be considered slster republics “Why do you 'mot Visit America yourself, Dr. Benea?" “1 expect to do §0. J am coming next year to deliver some lectures at the Political Institute at Williams d to come this summer, but the complications such that I was not able * % * % ““ 'HAT can the United States do for Europe?" “It can-do & great'deal, but not In the way that Europe expects. Europe is sick, It has been calling upon America for material help, but I do not belleve that is what is needed. Ita sickness is largely psychological, and 1 belleve it needs moral help and that you can give. The moral problem (s the real one. It must be settled first and the material help will com You m! it send over money. now, but you could not be sure that it would not be spent uselessly and some of it perhaps swallowed up in arma- ments. “The Unitad. States -can help, most by saying in plain words just what it means, and that fs that Eu- rope muit first Put ita house’in order and create an atmosphere of honesty. good will and demtocracy amon several nptlons. still llving in the war-time psy- chiology and treatink sach other with suspicion, if not ay enemfes. Aw for us, we are doing all we can to estab- lsh peaceful relations both at home and abro: > “Do you believe in disarmament?” “Yes, smphatically! But you peo- in the United States do not realise mnhv_-h;!un It 1s a situation made by the revolutions in the various countries, and one of a struggle between the classes that is still going on. The war has injured the privileged classes and they want revenge. If a socialist should ask me to disarm our 160,000 soldlers, I would say, 'l will do it tomoerrow If you can show me there {s no danger of war, or if you can take me to Germany and show that the soclallsts there are pre- pared to defend the rights of the peo- ple and are stronger than the militar- ists and the junkers. You must give us new states a few years more to pacify our domestic and foreign rela- tions and to become strong enough to show that the old, privileged classes cannot re-establish the old order of things.' " “Do you expect the United States to do anything as to the present situ- ation?” Not just now perhaps, but I think you will come as you came during the war. You will arrive at the psychologi- cal moment just as you did when you came over to France. It was the United States which saved the war, and it will be the United States which will come to the aid of Europe when she has established sane economic and political conditions, and is ready to ac- cept your material ald upon such & basis as will be mutually safe and profitable to you and to her.” hat do you think of the league of nations, Dr. Benes?" “I am in favor of it. I know it is not perfect as yet, but it seems to me that it is a great step along the path of in- | ternational democracy. We now have domestic democracies in most countries, 1t is now wé are|. “THE HRADCHIN, OR PALACE OF THE KINGS ‘THEDI OF ST. VITUS. DENT Ours—Its Relations With the United States—Why It Is Against Disarming—League of Na- tions and the Little Entente—An Interesting Interview With the Youngest Statesman of Cen- but we want a democracy of nations, a great world republic whose members will work together for all the world. This can only be brought about by a union of the nations, and the league needs the assistance of every country and especially of the United States. You could do much to protect it and | make it effective. We need such a league, not only for general welfare matters, but as a protection to the smaller nations and 1 believe it is the v | “But. Dr. Benes, do we need the | league? What can Europe give to the | United States?” | “It can give you a great opportunity |as it did during the war. It g you {a basis for a new work along inter- | national lines, and eventually the new markets for which American business 15 striving.” po * * ¥ % Gt seems to me, Dr. Benes, that Czechoslovakia was already | much more than a child. It has now fourteen milllon people and it walks |like a man. You say the Declara- tion of Independence was written in Washington. That means, I suppose, | that the republic is‘like our. | “In some respects, yes. ,In some re- | spects, mo," replied Dr. Benes. “We | have a senate and chamber of Depu- parliament as fn ybur Congress. But our senators are eight years and yours for six.. Our lower house of 300 members Is elect- ed for six years, yours for only two, Any Czechoslovakian. citizen, man or woman, over thirty vears of age duty of the big nations to join and sup- | ties, an upper ‘and lower house of | elected for | can be a member of the chamber, but | he or she must be forty-five years of | |age to be a member of the senate. | Our president is elected by the two | houses of parliament for seven vears, | and with one exception he camnot hold more than two terms. The ex- ception is President Masaryk, who is so loved and revered by the na- tion, that we have voted to re-elect | him as many times as he will serve.” | *“You have also the minority rep- | resentation, have you not?” “Yes, by our method, every party | no matter how small, is bound to be represented in parliament. I do not i know whether this is a good thing jor mot. It has its virtues but also its faults.” . “Will the republic last?" “Yes. It has the elements of long- evity. We have a strong people, able and willing to work. We are intel- |ligent. Here In Bohemia there is no | man or woman who cannot read and { write, and no family that has not its daily newspaper. There is prac- tically none that is not a supporter of the government. | “We have a rich country in one of | the best trading positions in Europe. Our soil is fat, we have an abundance | of timber and mines which give us | most of our raw materials. We have | great industries and our farms can feed four-fifths of the population. Just now almost four men out of every ten are on the farms and a lit- tle more than that are In the fac- tories_or working at home making things to sell. I feel that we do not want to Increase the number in the factorles. I should like to add to the farm population. We should not de crease our ability to feed ourselves. “But you are surrounded by agri- cultural countries. Hungary is little more than a great farm, and Poland, Rumanla and Russia will always have a great surplus. “Yes, but we must keep ourselves independent. We do not want to be- come like England, an island of fac- tories which must go abroad for its food and starve if that s cut off for three months or s0. We are to a cer- | tain extend an’industrial island sur- | feet, rounded by lands which would like to supply us. But our people have a higher standard of wages and living conditions, and this makes it so that we cannot compete with them as to agricultural products. We are will- ing to make arrangements with them to exchange our manufactures for food, but we must keep independent.” “What is the chief market of choslovakia?" Under the Austro-Hungarian em- pire it numbered 52,000,000 people: Now our domestic market is a popu- lation of only 14,000,000, and we shall have to export to keep our factories running. We want to, regain the old market if possible, and we expect to trade with our immediate neighbors. This is one of the reasons for the Little Entente. The arrangement Is political and fn the interests of peace, but is is also economlc and for the establishment of such rela- tions as will be for the mutual bene- fit of all. Such arrangements are gradually coming, and as soon as commercial and financial conditions are stable we shall have all of our old market and the new one as well.” (Copyright, 1923, Carpenter's World Travels.) [ Shot Up a Mountain. AT the foot of Mount Washington, in New Hampshire, may be seen a small shed that contains one of the most remarkable high-pressure pump- ing plants anywhere. A single engi- neer, who acts as fireman, caretaker and olfler, operates the plant It queezes” water to a height of 3,725 against a pressure of pounds to the square inch, from tha base of the mountain to the summer hotel at the peak of Mount Wash- ington. It is dlfficult to comprehend such a pressure withou a medium of com- parison. The high-pressure system of New York's fire department, with 300 pounds to the square inch, which will throw water over even the 700- foot Woolworth bullding, Is insignif- cant beside it. The pressure of a har- nessed Niagara Falls, or any of the numerous irrigation and power plant projects of the west, has about the same ratio to the weight of that col- umn of water from the top to the base of Mount- Washington as the force within a soda water bottle has to your local water supply. If the Mount Washington pumps were de- prived of their dutles at the foot of the mountain and connected instead to a turbine Intake pipe at Niagara or to the high-pressure fire lines of New York, they would pump twenty-five gallons a minute Into the, pipes against the 300 or 400 pounds pres- sure encountered. Concrete Plant Afloat. AMONG the interesting mechanical sights on the great lakes is = complete concrete plant afloat. This has been used in important harbor fmprovements, and the plant has & capacity of 150 yards a day. It. rests upon a scow, which is easily run alongside of the cribs on which the concrete dock is to be bullt. The conerete is poured into the forms from one end of .the scow. At the forward end of the scow are separate divisions for crushed stone and sand. A whirlie located just to the rear of these s used to lift the stone and sand to’'the mixer.~ The ‘| cement s kept in & house to the.rear OF BOHEMIA, IS BUILT ENT! IN ITS HUNDREDS OF ROOMS ARE NOW THE HOMES OF THE PRESL FOREIGN MINISTER, AND OFFICES OF THE CHIEF GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENTS! i of the whirlie, and is raised to the mixer by means. of an_elevator. To., the elevator it Is loaded and unloaded by hand. Power to operate the ma- chinery and to furnish electric light ’ is supplied by an upright engine. <