Evening Star Newspaper, July 15, 1923, Page 79

HERE is every reason to be- lieve that the clothes makers will try to put long jackets in fashion In place of short ones when the first glimmering of autumn appears. 1f,this transformation takes place it is.wise and sensible to get what- ever gervice a short jacket will give #n the warm weather. is violently changed women will not ignore it. They will follow it, not at first, probably, but before the turkey and cranberry is on the table. Paris is laying down the law to the American buyers now, but those who deal in bulk of ready-to-wear clothes started the idea of the long ¥oat. before the ultra French styles came. into being for the dressmakers. France has had enough of the short Jumper jacket, and well she might. for it was as commonly worn. over there: eighteen months ago as it is now on every beach, every country lane, every Main street. * % ¥ % EVERY varlety of treatment and : ornamentation has been tried out on this garment. There can be noth- ing left to the imagination. It is surplice more often than straight. It is braided more often than plain. Tt has the inevitable sash on one hip or the equally inevitable buckle at the tight hem. It never flares. It never buttons to the chin. 'S in- novations may be given a chance when cold wekther comes for those who refuse the length and volume of winter coats the dressmakers will give us. ‘What is mol than probable is that the flaring peplum will be the next step in the cut of short jacket “o suit those who are faithful to it. As there must be more than one style in coats for the various figures that dot this continental landscape, the Indo-Chinese effect over the hips will be a pleasing change. It is strange that we have had so little of the upturned horn move- ment in our clothes since the Cam- bodian dancers influenced French clothes last summer. We get our ‘flat-flowered embroidery from that source, the extravagant use of birds and peacocks, of jade and colored bheads, of broad colorful hems as borders and a brilllant display ef jeweled fabrics. Our so-called dia- mond gowns came from Indo-China. Bo did our long and splendid sleeves with the flaring cuff. Why should we have ignored the flaring jacket with its upstanding horns on the hips? They are excessively beguil- ing, these movements of fabric, and _&ive youthfulness to all but the hope- lessly stout and thickset. * x x x HEY may confuse the convictions of those who are not used to horns on thelr ‘clothes We have taken to ourselves so much that smacks of the Pacific orient in the last few months that we should not 1f the style Early Autumn C THE | | | | Lave hesitancy in adopting whatever:' looks queer and un-Christian, but some of us do. The short jacket whose peplum 1s convoluted Into sharp little flares over the hips, that curious)y reminiscent of cornuco- pias, may make us feel as though we were trying to be miniature Chi- nese pagodas. Therefore, we may re- jeot them, But the American dress- makers will ses to it that modifica- tions set in and the conventional American will be pacified. © As the sum total of the American woman's fashionable desires is to be emaciated and youthful, she has a hard effort ahead of her to fulfill suoh wishes in the wearing of the new long coats. The short jacket has youth in every It even heips the unquestion- stout to retain some measure of COAT SUIT OF BLACK MOROCCAN CREPE. THE JACKET HAS A CAPE BACK THROUGH WHICH THE ARMS EMERGE, AND FUR EDGES IT. THERE ARE THREE TIERS ON THE SKIRT AND A WIDE COLLAR OVER THE NECK OF THE JACKET. THIS SUIT RESEMBLES A FROCK. buoyanev in their appearance. But it leaves the knees cold. None there are to deny this. In winter weather, in certain sections of our continent, it 1s imperative to be protected from collarbone to knees. The warmest, short jacket of fur fails to do thi | The choice between warm and looking youthful Is the new dilemma forced upon us. We choose the leust of two evils, as a rule. So let the individual decide. It is well to think ahead of the moment when the choice must be made, however, 0 it SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, JULY 15, 1 lothes Promise Long TWO NEW SLEEVES TO BE WORN THIS AUTUM? A WIDE AND DEEP GAUN STANDING GAUNTLET ON A NTLET OF FUR EMBROIDERED TO THE FABRIC AT THE ELBOW. THE OTHER SHOWS AN OUT- BLACK SATIN SLEEVE, FORMED FROM TWO WIDE RUFFLES OF STIFF GOLD LACE. Emll'h: be profitable to spend a fow of the hot hours thinking what s best to do when they are over. The kind of long coat that fashion |provides for the autumn has been in service at the French races to please and stimulate the American | buyers who are there looking for our |new clothes. Two most conspicuous oxamples of the promised garment |were three-quarter in length, with decided flares at the hem. One was cut ltke the raglan men wear in England. The other was sukgestive of the formal Bourbon court coats |for men, The first was of thin cloth, beltless, long of sleeve and high of neck, a comfortable wrap with pro- | tective qualities. Fur-encircled neck and wrists and three huge buttons held the fronts together over the |chest. In America this coat showed |five buttons. We do not lke that trick of the French in giving our |hands too much to do In adjusting !the wrap to the wind and snow. | Their hands must have been fash- ioned for this work, for they never cease their activities in this fleld. ‘That {s the reason the great mass of |our women are compelled to have |nearly every French garment reme- |dled to suit our lack of gesture and | our disinclination to constantly keep |our garments in place. l * ox o x | FRENCH clothes are designed for | the French temperament and pe- |cultar movement of the hips and |hands. Why our buyers do not real- ize this with more force s hard to explain. The French dressmakers cannot understand the difference be- |tween types. Their women like to keep the oblong shoulder line In | place by their hands, doing it a hun- dred times a day. We adopt the olive-shaped open- ing. which slips from side to side, making us look more or less gro- tesque, without giving our hands the work to do. We don't know that the | fashion fits the French nervousness | ot gesture But back to long coats. weather makes stray broad and beaten highwa The second notable coat wern at the (How hot one from the 1 | French race-. was of gray silk gabardine, the sleeves tight at shoulder, loo | careles .y rolled back at wrist. | widely opened over the chest to give & |chance to the fmmense roliing collar | which promises protection in cold | weather by buttoning to the nose. The | hips are- highly ornamented, which is | the trick that gives the suggestion of | | formal court coats. The long waist line is accentuated by battlements of braid and one magnificent agate button holds the garment in place below the normal | wals The flare of the hem is pro- | nounced. It sweeps out Into sharp folds | as did the gallants' of Louls XIV's day. As far as this coat has gone in its {fashionable career it has been made of stuff that serves for the street. If the dressmakers decide to use it as an afternoon model or even as a sleeveless | evening model, it would look amazingly well In Chinese or Hindu brocade. The | braid could be replaced by jeweled em- | | broidery or galloon. It needs a figure of fine proportions to carry it. It fs not for the eel-like flapper measuring about five feet five. But she and her | kindred will wear it if it becomes the |1eading shape in coats. | * ok * % HERE was so much evidence thi the world liked the Persian jacket last winter that it may have a good chance for reinstatement when the weather permits. It is ornately girdled, which the new long coats are not, but the presence of the gabardine coat at | the races with its sharply featured hip line gives rise to the bellef that all | coats will not be straight and beltless. It is a happy beginning to the autumn | tashions that we are not asked to wear | the long-fitted coat of a past decade. We have not the curves they need nor | do we wish them. The Persian tunic hugs the upper part of the body, but as It was one of the first formal gar- | | ments {nvented for men it needs no curves. It is like & straight cuirass and is vastly becoming. The new French coats of the elab- and | It was | —PART 5. kf oats for Street Wear Review of New Fashions by Anne Rittenhouse | | | | NEW GOWN FOR AUTUMN. MADE OF WATERED SILK. TRIMMED | WITH BANDS OF WHITE, AND FASTENED WITH PEARL BUT- TONS. THERE 1S A LARGE COLLAR OF WHITE ORGANDIE. | THE OVERSKIRT RESEMBLES THE MINARET OF THE YEAR BEFORE THE WAR. orate type outline the body from the |tailored sults is their lack of belts. Many rback an old and familiar outline to the waist up, but thers is no curving in at the lower edge and the underarm seams are straight. They are easy to wear. The {mportant feature of the autumn of the coats swing free from the shoul- |ders. Their width at the walst is so pronounced that it accentuates the pur- poseful narrowness of the shoulders. | The addition of & narrow skirt brings figure. Crepe de chine is to be continued into autumn for street suits because lof its convenient weight. It does not |take to itself the long coat and it adjures the jumper jacket. There is a ehort. coat used-with a tiered elkirt, the two forming the semblance of a frock and the jacket carries a cape at the back which gives an exit to the arm On & new suit of black crepe Maro- cain the cape is edged with narrow fur, It is the only part of the costume that carries peltry. There 18 a renewed usage of fur on suits, but it 1s gently done, somewhat after the manner of last season when odds and ends were turned iInto spe- clalized accessories by the dressmakers after the medieval fashion. It was a likable trick, alluring to the econom- ist, pleasing to the worker whose shelves are usually crowded with bits of preclous peltry too small for the conventional decoration. * ok * x A FEW of tho new coat slceves have wide gauntlet cuffs that are attached to the elbow below a line of embroldery or braiding. An ornamen- tal button will make them tight the wrists. Gauntlets, by the way, r appear on several of the recent im- portations for autumn. Gold lace used on a black satin slseve as ona of the novelties. Batin is revived for new frocks and suits. Crepe de chine, printed and plain, will continue tp be chosen with as much enthusiasm as though it were newly christened. Thin kas broadcloth, fine English sulting rep and some serge coats and skirts when th ed. There is nothing radical fabrics for sturdy clothes, although the brocades and watered silks, fina silks and printed crepe for conspicu- ous clothes fill the counters. weavers and dyers have done their best this season to imitate the splen- dors of China and East India, and thelr success will give us a chance to be as glorious as birds of paradise when soctal life starts. Old-fashioned watered silk, called molre, 18 revived for autumn along with satin. France has shown many of them to our buyers, and they have been sufficlently worn at the races to exploit the style. The weave is sup- ple. It is imperative that all fabrics , wol used for are need be | should be soft, for there is a continu ance of clinging clothes. The pre: ence of width does not alter the sii- houette. Magnificent brocades, despite their formality of design and costil- ness, have lost their stiffness. They show no resistance to drapery Sandwiches Worth While. Jelly Sandwiches. Use thin slices of white or whole- wheat bread. Butter the slices and spread half with currant, crabapple or grape jelly and sprinkle with chopped walnuts or pecans. Cover with plain buttered slices to make sandwiches. Nut Sandwiches. There is plenty of choice here. Be- sldes the peanut butter, which is one of the handiest things to keep on hand where & quick picnic lunch is often in demand, there may monds chopped fine or run the coffee mill or meat ch {and moistenea with a | naise or erry, chopped pecans mixed with mayonnaise, or Boston brown bread buttered and spread with & fill- ing of chopped walnuts or butternuts. Mushroom Sandwich. Mix bolled chopped mushrooms with yolks of hard-boiled eggs, creamed butter, & dash of lemon juice, chopped parsley, paprika, caper and grated cheese. Force through a sieve Spread on buttered toast he 1 pper, salt a axon Ham and Olives Sandwich. Spread two slices of bread with bhutter. Chop the ham and olives very fine. As soon as.done put at once between the slices of prepared bread Frank G. Carpenter Writes of “The Land of the Midnight Farm” OW would you like to farm in a | land where the sun works for | you all night long? Where you can harvest oats or dig potatoes at 1 o'clock in the morning and where the long days make the| ‘crops fairly leap from the ground? That is what they have here in Nor- | way. It is the same in parts of Alnskfl.; and in all other lands where the sun | shines at midnight, and the twilight s | working when the rest of the world is | asleep. The sun stays up til 12 o'clock fn the northern part of this| country. I have seen the same thing on the Yukon in the heart of Alaska, and | 1 have read newspapers in both coun- | iries by daylight between night and morning. The shortness of the summer {8 compensated by the long light and the fact that nature works sixteen or more hours every day. This is one of the advantages of Norweglan farming. It has disadvan- | tages as well. One is that there is not | much land to farm. The country is so covered with rocks and trees that only three acres in every one hundred has been put under the plow, and seventy- five of them produce nothing of value. There is only one large tract of good farming land, and that {s not half as ‘big as Rhode Island. It lies at the southwestern end of Norway near Den- mark, which country it greatly re- sembles. The land is smooth and gently rolling and it produces good crops. * k¥ ¥ MING northward from Copenhagen to Christiania, I passed through Bweden, and rode for four hours op the train through southern Norway. The whole way was spotted with what might be called handkerchlefs of land in the midst of the rocks. In some places the handkerchiefs lay amid half-burled boulders of granite and fat black and white cattle were feeding upon them. gome of the patches were cultivated and had little crops of oats and potato I was nowhere out of sight of the primeval rock, and the land made me think of - the half-bald’ head of old Mother Earth, with patches of hair, the pine trees, scattered here and there over it. The rocks:had ben scoured by the great foe eheet which rolled from here down over Europe and it reminded me ©2 the Matoppos hills in South Africa where Cecil Rhodes is buried. Every few miles ‘we passed lakes and streams and the latter were filled with logs or pleces of pulp wood floating down to the mills to be made into paper. Every now and then we went by a sawmill #r 2 pulp factory and in many places they were shipping lumber and pulp. Here and there the farmers had cut thelr hay and hung it on racks that it migh dry the more quickly, and every where they were harvesting oats. AsI rode, 1 looked In vain for farm villages | such as I have photographed in Belgium and France. Instead there were farm houses and good sized farm barns stand. ing alone on the landscape. The bulld- ings were about the same as we have | | tn America, and, except for the fact that there were many women at work | in the flelds, the farms were not dif- | ferent. | ok ok % | URING my stay in Christiania 1/ have motored out through the country. The farmers are now gath- ering in their crops for the winter. They are harvesting oats and digging potatoes. The potato is the chief root crop that can ba grown here at | a profit, and the annual yleld is about | twenty-five million bushels. T stop- ped at & fleld where men and women | were gathering the tubers into bar- | rels for the market. Some of them were digging. The field contained | sixty acres. It was the largest body of farm land I saw during the trip. The chiet grain crop of Norway is oats. It is growp all over the coun- try and a large part of it comes from little patches surrounded by rocks. In this ride, it seemed to me that every patch of good Soil was yellow with oats. Some of the fields made me think of an octopus, its back contain- ing the body of the crop and its yel- low arms stretching out into the rocks. Where the oats was cut, the shocks were no bigger around than my waist and about eight feet in height.. There would,.be scores of these’ tall, golden figures standing like ghosts in one single fleld. In pther places the grain, tied in'lean sheaves, was hung upon racks like so much laundry to dry in the sun and the wind. Some of these racks were ten or twelve feet In length. Others ran across the fleld making walls or fences of oats as high as my head, The racks are made by driving-posts, with projecting pins, into the ground. There are three or four pins on each post. Long poles are laid on the pins and upon these the oatsheaves are hung, overlapping one another, so that they shed the rain. You all remember the poem of the judge and Maud Muller: “Maud Muller on a summer’s day, Raked the meadow sweet with hay" That is the American version. Norway it would read: “When the young judge was seeking votes, He saw Maud Muller binding oat: Every farm in Norway has its Maud Mullers and they all vote. They are fairhaired, blue-eyed blondes and they work bare-headed and bare-arm- ed side by side with the men. The whole family of the farmer helps with the harvesting. I stopped at a grain fleld today where -'tnt).r with In A Country Where the Fields Are Handketchiefs and the Sun Works All Night—How They Rake Hay and Bind Oats—Fields of Golden Ghosts—Forests Which Produce Paper for Cloth- ing—Harnessing the Waterfalls of the Far North—Black Coal From the Air and Whale Butter Fresh From the Sea. his son and two daughters were reap- ing oats. The son was & husky six- footer and the girls, fifteen or six- teen years of age, were fair-haired and blue-eyed. The boy was cutting oats with a scythe and the girls fol- lowed behind and raked it together, { binding it in small sheaves with the straw as a binder. * % k x AT the same tme the father was | shocking. He did this by making a hole in the ground with crow bar, and then driving dowf a.pole about eight feet in height. When this was fixéd firmly, he would take the first sheaf of oats and pull.it down around: the pole to the ground. He would then put-on'another, and so continued until the sheavés reached the top of the pole, which he so capped that the shock sheds the rain.. In-the United States, most of our oats s cut by ma- chinery and often bound and threshed by the Teaper. The flelds here are too small for heavy Implements, although on the larger estates some veapers and. iron hayrakes are used. The first Ameri- can’ tractor which was brought here four years ago créated a sensation and there are now about three hun- dred of firem in use; Most. of the crops, however, are still cultivated and harvested by hand. In some parts of the mountains the hay is rolled up into bundles and slid ‘down on wire ropes to the barns far below. I should ltke to write fully con- cerning farming on' the edge of the' fiords and the beauties of this Euro- pean Northland, but scenic Norway is another story. There is mno other country on earth where the teeth of old Neptune have so gnawed through the gigantic rocks lining the shore that the ocean runs far into the land with cliffe on each side a half mile or more high. There is none but Alaska that has such & necklace of islands, and few that have pine woods which compare with the for- ests that half cover this country. In my rides through the farm re- gions I have been in the woods al- most all the time. The pines grow right up to-the edge of “Christiania, and there is scarcely s place where the birch and the fir are not to be found. One acre in every five is cov- ered with woods and among the chief Versus “NO LAND IS WASTED IN NORWAY, EVEN THE TINY PATCHES OF SOIL AMONG THE ROCKS BEING PLANTED WITH OATS. IT IS CUT WITH A SCYTHE HAND.”. exports are timber, lumber. pulp and news print, which means the kind of paper on which these words are printed. The pulp is made In dif- ferent ways and some of it comes from the boards and slabs ground up by the sawmills. Most of it is manu- factured with chemicals and the bulk of the soft wood is cut for pulp mak- AND BOUND INTO SHEAVES BY \URING the war Norway furnished & great deal of cellulose, an ex- tract of wood pulp uséd for making munitions. At that time an jndustry sprang up in Germany based upon & wood-wool that might be woven into textiles of one kind or another. The paper clothing, used by the Germans, was of that nature. . The patent for White Coal—Nitrates artificlal wool has been recently ac- quired by Norway, and we may- yet has, it is estimated, about three mil- have paper céats and trousers from these pines and firs ’ During the- last’ two years® they have been using cellulose as: cattle feed and they are now finding a way to use the' wasté for the making -of {alcohol, A number of the cellulose | mills now have ‘altohol factories.in | connection;with them, and it is be- leved that this will greatly add to | some thousands of the best workers of Norway. o . During this trip to Europe I have found every country through which assed wide-awake to its eleotrical posaibilities. ‘The compli- cations of the coal situation during’ the world war led to the study of re- placing coal with electricity wher- ever possible, either by establishing electric work at the mines or by har- nessing the waterfall ready written of the great scheme for mdking the River Rhone run the rallways'and factories of France, and told how Belgium expects to electrify some. of her trunk lines. They are considering it even in Hol- land and Denmark, countries which have no coal and are so flat they can have no waterfalls of great value, and here in Scandinavia, where the whole peninsula is peppered with falling water, it is one of the live questions of the hour. I shall write of Sweden later. Norway has more waterfalls than Sweden, It leads all the countries of Europe and comes next to the United States in the extent of its avallable waterpowers. ‘The government is now investigating' the matter and,ac- cording to the latest surveys thers is enough falling water to produce fif- teen million horsepower. Our avall- able waterpower {s not more than sixty millions and Sweden, which comes next to Norway, has only half or perhaps two-thirds as much. France has less than six million available horsepower, and Spain only five. The n republic of Finland lions and this is twice the possibili- ties of Switgerland, which one would naturally expect to have the most extensive falls of the world. i E Jtile industry, which already employ: IFTEEN milllon Horsepower! Thess 42 Jate the figures for the whits coal i ,of this land of granite and pine | where the black coal is. 80 poor that |1t runs out in peat. Fifteen million | horsepower! Some engineers esti- {mate that it takes ten tons of black coal furned into steam. to make one horsepower, so that this white coal must bg multiplied by ten to appre- clate Its value against the black coal of the world. According to that,. it is, annually worth just one hundred and fifty million tons of soft coal, or | orie-tenth of all the coal product of the ‘whole world today. We produce more coal than any other countr turning out annually something like six- hundred million _toms, or four times as much as Norway's possible produet in her waterfall value. Eng- | 1and produces only half as much as ¢ do and the other lands of the | world produce less. This white coal of Norway les in waterfalls-all-over | the country, and the rainfall and-the reservoirs, in the shape of lakes and basins which can be filled by inex- | pensive dams, are such that the Sup- | ply ‘of electricity would be steady throughout the year. In many other countries, the hydro-electric power can be used only six or eight months ‘'when'the stréams get so low that steam ;must _be used’ for the rest of the vear. This {s 80 at the Zambesi Falls, the Niagara of South Africa. At times, it is sald, they produce what would- be- thirty-fiye.million horse- power if the Zambes! kept up, but the power dwindles almost to nothing when the river is low. As to the horsepower already devel- oped, Norway has more than 1,200,000, but this, although only about one- fourth our development, far exceeds that of any country in Europe. Many of these waterfalls are right on the ocean. They compare with a few we have in southeastern Alaska. The water plunges from the high cliffs di- rectly down int the deep flords, so that the largest steamers can dock near the power stations. The fiords are free from ice throughout the year, and the opportunities for large factories are many. Some of the falls on their course from the hils to the sea have a drop of from 1,600 feet to more than a‘mile and the many large lakes en- able their discharges to be easily regu- lated, t The falls are scattered throughout the country so that long transmission lines will not be needed to bring the electricity right into the homes of the people. Of the 1,200,000 horsepower already developed, onefourth is devot- ed to supplying electricity for light- ing, for street car systems and house- hold and farm use, while the balance is consumed by large industries. Of the available horsepower about one- seventh is owned by the government, an equal amount by municipalitl large and small, while the rest is in the hands of private partles. * I'the. . A LONG the lines of-future develop- {4\ ment, the greatest, perhaps, will { be in' the electro-chemical and electro- metaliurgical industries. Norway is now taking nitrogen from the air and ! by means of these waterfalls is turn- ing it into artificial fertilizers thist wiil | compete with the nitrates of ,Chtle. | Nitrates of lime and cyanide afe also | produced-in large quantities. There is | one firm which uses a quarter-of:a mil- |1ton - horsepower for such purpos They are making a great deal calcium-carbide, and several years agn electro-chemical products had | reached an export value of more than $100,000,000. | Among the largest of the resources | of Norway are ‘these contained in the sea. One of these is fish. These sons |of the vikings are expert fishermen, {'and before the ‘war they were shipplog | aimost two.and-a half million poungs | of dried fish to America. The Norwe- glan dried cod, or split fish, goes every- where, and" especially to -Spain and | Portugal, although the export to those countries just now has been reduced because -they are retallating upon the Norweglans for their new laws of pgr- tial prohibition. In the past the cbd haye been pald for by the importation of liquors. These Imports have been cut and the Portuguése are putting pn big harbor duties and refusing to buy Norwegian goods, i As far back as 1812 Norway ex: ported 3,000,000 pounds of dried eod, and she now sells to other countries more than thirty times that amonnt. The government considers the business 80 important that it sends men to lecture to the fishermen and tell them how to split the cod and dry them best for the market. Another big flsh export is the her- ring, and just now the whale fishing is paying well. These Norweglans go all over the world hunting whales and recently their best grounds have been in the Antarctic ocean, where as many as 10,000 whales have been caught in one year. The ships use the harpoon grenade which was invented by & Nor- wegian. This is a bomb with & time fuse so0 set that it explodes inside the whale. It is discharged from a gun, mounted on the poop of the ship, The bomb elther kills the whale outright or s0 wounds it that it can be easily taken. : A large part of the profits is now coming from the whale ofl, which, by & new invention, is hardened into a fat that takes the place of butter or mar- garine. Sclentific tests have proved this fish butter can be absorbed into one's system quite as easily as natural fat. It is due to this hardened whale butter that Norway was spared the fat famine which was common to mest countries of Elurope during the war. (Carpeater’s World Trywels, Ocporighted, 1038y