Evening Star Newspaper, June 17, 1923, Page 81

t T . HE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. O, JUNE 17, 1923—PART 5. Various Outstanding Features of Millinery for By ANNE RITTENHOUSE. JERE are many things to say of hats—more than usual The midsummer needs a ¥a- riety of headgear; some eomfort, some ornamentation. There- fore, milliners lose no chances. Much that has been fashionable Still {s. Hatmakers believe that the maxim of a certain hat for every facs is too ancient a truth to be in- Solently disregarded. An equally ancient truth is disregarded, how- ever; the lang face and high crown join themselves after centuries of aloofness. - In certain glimpses they "are reminiscent of Mr. Dickens' scalawag characters; but the woman | with a long face who buys a helmet with steeple crown and short rakish brim may not care to remember Mr. Cruikshank's drainage. 1f she did re- #all taem. she would merely say: What of it So dominant A flower-pot variety not easy to with a sweeping the' stovepipe or of hat that it is smart_in a hat brim. It must be doctored to show that it belongs to this season. Feathers don't help. They are out of the limelight unless they are ruffied. When ruffied they anriek aloud that they are of this summer and come France There a tendency wear ¢ mousquetaire ostrich, uncurled aweeping from crown to shoulder at hack. That's an exclusive fashio ta: What inge of ostrich any dye. and ‘ance of a he dressmakers ook trom ona fe i is a rufed er? 1t leen dipped ito the sem- flounce. When went quite wild tbout such ruffles. the milliners got into the game and when a woman wears an ostrich rufe on the edge ot & hat brim it deludes the observer into thinking It a queer kind of veil The humane person is quite con- tent that milliners have ceased io torture feathers and give us the harmless iuffie. Recent years have produced an exasperating mass of —sprffnage which, suggested the cham- bers of the Inquisition. No one has been content to let an astrich be an 1t had to be something that was on land or sea ma circular - i going through this same pérverted process. Who knows a cat when it sees one running around a adket? Who knows w Cht nees lion, a Russia a Persian ‘polacat. a Chilean fashion® W at they are ca o one. These na: contly inguished Such furs are heaped on hot weath- er apparel. which is another perve sion, and the fur ie striped. checkered, varfegated. We wdmen never take our peits or plumage straight like them disguised No milliner has improved on straw for summer haisx. Tt can indulge vourself in all its arti- ficial colors. Look well upon vellow or it is the fashion and lends itself ltke ripe,corn to the love landseape zebra ey co Who cares? d forelgu Knows N season vou ess of the There's a deeper yeilow also, which tales its toue the _tepaz: still another akin Gowns ara built in do be advised nol hat to the frock from to shades match up Choose but the for We | range. . | | 1 |’ i [ 1 1 _—— light brown that blends. or black. even cornflower blue or France sends alluring hate of deep ! veliow crepe de chine garlanded with flowers Wi are to with russet frocks or knitted silk or black | frocks of georgette crepe or white crepe de chine sport safts. Sometimea the latrer slightly bound with low ribbon continue because but they are hot which cannot be de chilly da ch he worn crepe o hats 1 spousorship climate. [ Fe Fren for this red pr SUNSHADE HAT OF.YELLOW STRAW. WITH RIBBON CROWN, FLAT ORNAMENT IN FRONT AND HUGE BOW AT BACK, WIT! LONG STREAMERS. | like the European resorts trom which we borrow our summer fashlons, somewhat late, it is true, but that's of no consequence. It is wise to wear the georgette crepe hat in this cli- | mate if we prefer fabrio to straw. It is a newer bit of millinery than crepe de chine, which should not complain | for its rule lasted long. The georgette hat of the hour is high of crown, narrow of brim and | covered with tiny bias folds shaped to the crown—a tedlous bit of work, in keeping with the infinite labor | put on crepe frocks after the same fashion. The cost of such hats and frocks is overwhelming and the average woman say Not a single piece of trimming at that price.” That sentence sums up the majority of seasonal clothes * B fabric for summer hats. straw is mforting. 1t fades, yes, but every thing eise does when our sun is be- paving in its best tropical manner. U'ndyed leghorn does not fade, neither does Milan nor many other straws, but the flower ornamentation which milliners have graciously revived must be watched and sometimes re- newed before the summer gets into tull swing Qne of the imported leghorn hats with & high crown and wide brim that neither bends nor twists avoids tragile flowers that fade and sub- stitutes large vellow and white, vel- These run up ons side to * * * UT say what one will in favor of | ingenue, | flowers drooping across Although surmount "the orown and hang over | the brim. It i3 one of the best of | summer hats. Opposed to its sophis- | tication is & Victortan hat of hair braid with sioping and curving crown, always assoclated with the on and off the stage. It carries a wide gariand of assorted | the front. | the hat itself i» deep | mauve, the flowers pay no attentlon | to that faot. They were never grown fn any garden, but they are gay and delightful, which is all that counts in certain summer hats. The average Jlow-priced hat is‘ touched with red cherries to show a faint homage to & departing fashion. | last year Paris could not get &long | without bright red Palm Beach followed the idea iast spring. That | was enough of it. Too much. many of us thought. Red is not only a danger color, but dangerous in itself. Why do 80 many forget the fact? Influenced by Egyptian fashions, | it is not to be supposed that certain shades of the color will be aban- oned Brick dust, pottery red, rust in its partly yellow tones are tints of red that remain with us The woman who can't wear a poppy red hat, however, can manage to look very well in rast brick. So there's no use cryving aloud with fear over the popularity of these tones. The safe thing 1s to choose the right tone As for cherries, been abandoned. urface and brillt or they should have Their glazed, hard t doloring will do damage to much that nature made beautiful. of youth may be coquettish. on a hat worn by middle-age are provocative — of ridicule. Strange that hats contribute more to gro- tesqueness than gowns, isn't it? Back to straw hats for & moment: They are quite good in their natural | color, but they show whatever other color in fashion. The yellow tones, also the new green ones, run riot through millinery €0 many shades of green that one would think she expects & hot sum- mer, something she didn't approach last year. Leather coats, sweater suits, mufflers, winter coats and woolen stockings costumes at Deauville and in London one wore the wool so it seratch, as the Americans put it One of the new green tints in hats | is arsenic. the same as the successful Vionnet evening frock. Another is mustard, a name that does not sug- gest green us, but which the French say is an admirable mixture of green and yellow. Difficult color. that. Far better Paristenne. who makes up her face to suit the hat she wears Americans are likely to wear to the France sends | were our favorite' would | ame cosmetics every day. But think | keep in fashion. o oxox | HR | X footman's cockade. It remains 6n half the hats of the hour unless they flower has not displaced the ummer Season COUNTRY SUNBONNET HAT OF DOTTED SWISS, WITH SCAL- LOPED EDGE AND RUFFLED CROWN OF VAL LACE AND RIBBON ORNAMENT ON SIDE. PARASOL OF SAME FABRICS often, it fs of ribbon, picot-edged. Entire hats are bullt of ribbon and every varlety of ornament is made of it. This fashion coincides with the use of miles of ribbon on frocks, | espectally on lace ones. | By the way, writing of lace gowns One cherry in ‘the mouth | of wearing the green known as verdi- | which are in the ascendency reminds Three | gris, yet that is what we are to do to | me that lace hats and their tulle ! season. and das as hat adornment, yet the big black isters have not pushed forward this Lace vells still do duty night must sit on the top shelf in its box. possess brims of the English-garden |y, (. ;o promised a revival next tea—curate type. No sel footman of the ancient Victoria, th would recognize his insignia in this glorified ornamentation on a women's hat. Even the abused ostrich feather brought into service for it, stripped of its glory of length, shorn of its depth and turned Into fragile leaves, variously tinted to please the color- A heaping haudful of such extraordinary foliage is fashioned into a sizable cockade to be plas- tered against the side of & helmet, & cloche, & mushroom. | 1sts. 1 The easy way to achieve a smart| shade as & means of relief for the| effect is to make the cockade of the|brimless woman. When this is eatin or, world of parasols has opened over us! leave it to the|Reorgette crepe the fingers must not|The Japanese paper ones which were|F: Sometimes | revived 3 The | the affair is a bunch of varying loops suggested the Chifiese leather kind Again, and!that canny hat material | be those of a bungler. stitched or embroidered respecting | closed landau or the diplomat's car | autumn. Much metal is expected next win- not alone in hats, but in frocks and a few doZen accessories. But | sufficient to the day * * *' If we an just get our wardrobes In good | ter, ailing order for summer we are will-| | ing to leave the frets and worrles of | the next season to the manufacturers, who, poor souls, never live within the calendar. One has a feeling they put on overcoats in July. ‘When milliners decided to continue | the helmet hat into hot weather they ! bethought them of the genuine sun- So what a mad fn Flortda and California travelers bring home. not as face coverings, but| | 1ace hat, which was once a standby, | 7 SMALL HELMET. WITH DOWN, TURNED BRIM OR ORANGE CREPE DE CHINE AND TWO LARGE BUCKLES IN FRONT. THE CROWN IS TIGHTLY DRAPED. THE HANDBAG 1S MADE OF THE HAT MATERIAL. These are durable and lovels | far cosuty in this countr. | Some parasols are covered with | cashmere shawl remnants to resem- ‘hle walking canes, which are mno | longer the vagary of the limelight« | ers, but the companions of the elect, Knobs of these new sunshades re- flect the Egyptian furore, but thers is more dignity in the flat, thick knob of bright lacquer or enamel chosen | by women who never follow the popu | 1ar path. * x * * ERE are the outstanding features of millinery for summer: The high crown usually wide, in- stead of smail, as it started out. Ornamentation on o side rather than both sides. Brims that are short or upturned |at back, except on the garden va | riety of hat Poke hats are fashionable, ver but one must be sure of the shape | of the face before selecting them. | The Breton hat may soon rival the | helmet, so be prepared. Its brim rolls smartly away from the head all ! around. It s'extra short in the back. The excessive use of white organ- die or book muslin on black hats These are fashioned into lilies or im= mense cockades. An increasing’ fashion fo= yellow. a recrudescence of Bermuda lilies. revival of black satin whieh w reach wide proportions by October ! (Cop¥right; 1923.) No Option. ‘rom the Detmit Free Press. Mary—I hea# Johnny's on his again. ot Mother—¥es,i poor boy; his ftors took*His ear | Tens of Thousands in Great Electric Plant Get Twenty-Five Cents a Day By FRANK G. CARPENTER. SIEMENSSTADT: the Samson of the commercial and indus- trial world. Bafore the great war he was conguer- ing his competitors. capturing nia kets from Peking to Parle. from Be lin to Bagdad. and from 1he Rio Grands to the Stralts of JMagellan He has as many antics as the Samson of old aud his dumping poiicies in- jured ihe trade of his enemies as did Samson's- 300 foxes with the fire- brands tied to their tafls when they hurnt up the corn of the Philistines ‘He overcame them with the cunning f & fox rather thau the mew jaw- bone of an ass, and by his organiza- tion and un 1lous methods was ,everywhere victorious. when he was " charmed by Delilah of military ambition. She shaved his hai to the scalp. Now h streng is gone for the time, and the French by taking the Rubir have bound him with fetters of brase. But once let his hair grow, and he may vet pull down the pillars s Dagon and involve the and trade of ail other nations in ruin 1 must confess I .am afraid of the Germans. They .are ‘indomitable workers, and keep on plugging away under conditions which would light the fires of revolution in France. bhring bolshevism to Emngland and overturn everything iu the United }States There are miilions now employed in the factories as. wages which do not equal more than 25 cents gold per day. They are as skilled as we are. They have almost as good plants and they work with modern ma- ohinery. We worry about the “Yellow Peril.” consisting of 300,000,000 Chinese who work with their hands. It is & poor ‘machine ‘that does not multiply the ERMANY the industry | alectrical city within twenty minutes of the heart of Berlin in a high- powered automobile. The place com- pares with the Westing- housa works at Pittsburgh or those the General Electric Company at Schenectady. It the of & firm which has 95,000 employes work: ing in and in other part has about 0,000 in extent o ix home of the world. It at Nuremberg: its greal establishments here | Leaders of German Industry Discuss Conditions in Their Country and Talk About Their Relations With Other Nations—Siemensstadt, Famous for Many Years, Has 95.000 Employes. German Peril Versus the Yellow Peril and the Story of the Modern Samson — Captains of Industry Object to the it | has electric installations of one kind | or another in every great city in Eu- rope. and its name is known where- ver electricity eral offices at almost 5000 emploves tories cover many acres, being di- vided up into units each making a certain kind of electrical goods, and some the units emploving more than 10,000 men. The homes of the { workmen coustitute a city having in | the neighborhood of 100,000 popula- {tion. in the center of which is the office building where I was received by the general manager, and had o is used. In the gen- Siemenstadt there are and the fac- 1 was first taken by an electric j elevator to the roof of a square tower | which tises over the main office build- ing, It has an electrio clock on each (side, the face of which would cover | the floor of youe parlor, and the roof |gives a view of the plant. Tt atretches Lfar und wide on every side—great buildings of steel, iron and glass, each of five or six storias. Each building |is separate, and often some distance away from the others, and all aré§ | humming with some special industry. One, for instance, is making sutomo- | biles, another electrio light machines, |ana others portable heating apparatus yor telegraph instruments, including the tickers from which brokers read | their stock market reports. There | are great shops making police and fire | algnals, factories making electric very facility for examining the plant. | product ten-fold. On thal basis these | fans, acres of works devoted to dyna- 59,000,000 of Germans are equal to |mos, and smaller establishments §00,000,000, or twice the Chinese, and | Where they turn out the most deli- just now the wages are not far apart. | Cate apparatus for sclentists, sur- I do not know the average factory | Eeons und dentists. wage of the United States. A man who makes cheap automoblles pays his men eix or more dollars a day, and I venture the average American gets at Jeast three dollars for his every eight hours of work. These Germans are doing the same kind of labor at 2 cents per hour, and they are mak- ing goods to compete with ours in the markpts of the world. Tnere is a mighty difference be- tween 26 cents and $3, and a still reater difference between 3 cents an hour of certain American mechanics, and this differerice will show in the prices at which the goods can be g0ld, The.-greatest cost of manu- taouring today is in the labor re- quired to produce, and it will be long nefors we can raise our tariff walls high enough to shut out German goods when conditions again becoms stable. The wages wlill rise, but the difference between 25 cents and $3 is ®o great that the possible damage 18 almost beyond computation * Kk % ok \HE above is by way of introduc- tion to some visits 1 have made and am making to. the chief industrial Blants of this country and to talks ‘with thelir highest officials as to pres- I shall jour and the one to three dollars an | | Coming down out of the tower I | strolled about from one great build- |ing to another, stopping hers .to “vu.lch them make electrio motors for jhouse industries and farms, going { through plants where they are build- Ing machinery for mines, including |sinking pump motors and electrio {rock drills, and thence to the great | turbo-generators of which they have erected about 600 with a total output ot 250,000 kilowatts. I eaw, also, the | machines which were morking on the stroet rallay plants, and on the cables | tor the transmission lines which are |mow being established in Norwa: |Sweden and elsewhere. They are making, also, automatic telephones which are rapidly coming into use in some of the countries of Europe. Everywhere the hands were busy, and the work was as good as that in our great United States establishments. * x * x MADE some Inquiries as to wages and was informed that 26 cents is high for the average man at the machines. One of my guides, the head of a department which emplo: 6,000 men, told me he is getting only about $10 a month, and that notwith- standing the fact that before the war he made 34,000 a year. In one fao- ory 1 saw three men straining as they carried a machine weighing sev- ¥ GERMANY.” eral hundred pounds from one side of the room to the other. I asked their wages. The reply was in marks and it equaled less than 2 cents per hour. The elevator man inside the tower sald his wage was 60 ocents per woek, and that it took one fourth of all he made to pay for the milk for his five months’ old baby. The head of the department of whom I have spoken, only occasionally has meat on hi table, and he is still wearing the clothing he bought during the war. These are the wages in an industry which prior to 1814 met its competitors in all parts of the world. The Ger- mans have always stood high In electrical matters. In 1913 their ex- ports of eledtro-technical products were valued at §69,000,000. Germany . “THE STREET CLOCK SAYS THE TIME IS 4 O'CLOCK, THEIR EMPLOYERS COMPLAIN THAT THE SOCIAL Eight-Hour Day. ‘was then exporting more than $11,- 000,000 worth of incandescent lamps and about half that value in the form of appliances for Ulumination and the transmission of power. It wes producing almost 100,000,000 lght bulbs per annum, and of these it ex- ported 58,000,000. There is another electrio company here which is about equal to Siemens- stadt. It is known as the Aligemelne Elektrizitats-Gesellschaft, and before the war it had a gold capital of almost $40,000,000 and was making a profit of §4,500,000 per annum. Dur- ing the war it was turned to electro- military purposes and its profits jumped up to $6,000,000 and then $7,000,000 and over. In 1917 the cap- ital of the company was increased, but the shares were then quoted at 233. The company here i the Siemens- Halske and Slemens-Shuckert, and it has probably done equally well. It is one of the oldest electrical com- ponies, having been founded more than three-quarters of a century ago, when Werner Slemens began to build telegraph apparatus. Siemens was one of the great inventors, having discovered the dynamo-electric prin- ciple, and his inventions have kept this company far in the lead. About twenty years ago the Siemens Com- pany was combined with Shuckert & Co. and since then it has been in the front ranks of the electrical industry, and when the mark becomes stabil- | much as the money of today, and 80 | when we think we sell at a profit we find we have sold at a loss. It takes | four times the work and brains to | run our business now that it did to | run the same business before the war. | We get only about three-fourths as | | much out of our labor, and the so- | cialistic organizations are cutting | down not only the time but the effi- | clency of the men as well. As it is | now, we work only elght hours and | our wages are high in comparison | with the work we receive. When the | exchange becomes stable they will | g0 to the highest.” | "It is said that your captains of in- | dustry, including Hugo Stinnes, in favor of keeping the mark low. Some think the whole scheme is to get out of paying your debts say you have impoverished the in- vesting classes and that once matters are settled you will start out with good plants free of debt, and eco- nomically conquer the world.” swered the chairman of the board. “I know Stini We have a combipe with him. We all want stable cond!- tlons and we must have them to do business either here or abroad. As it is now I cannot tell whether I am going to make a profit or a loss. “When the mark is stable these low wages will disappear automatically, aud our competition will be on an equal basis throughout the world. After that our industries will come back to normal. What we need is & government that will tell Germany it must work more and work harder. Poincare has promised that Germany will pay. but there {s not enough pro- duction going on here to bay France. Do vou think the Germans are going give one-tenth of their earnings to France? Not much!” “The evil genius of the present sit- uation,” continued Dr. Kottgen, “is nre‘ They | “That is blooming nonsense an-| to work fifteen or twenty years and | that man Poincare. He had a great deal to do with causing the war, and | history will show that his ambitions | are even more audaclous than were | blood les In foreign trade. T have Just had a talk with Dr. Bucher. head of the Union of German Indu tries, aldng these 1 Seid he: “Germany has an entirelv @ifferent place from that of America {n the world of mahufactures. God has given you enormous resources You have a large part of all kinds of raw material and your agricultural | wealth is such that you can feed and | clothe your whole nation. Germany has but few raw materials and our | food resources are such thet one- | third of the people must rely on | their nourishment from the outside. | We have twenty millions who have to be fed in that way, and the only means of feeding them is by exchang- | ing the goods we make for that food | “Moreover, we have to work for our living and the good Lord has | given us but little outside our brains |and muscles to work with. Before | the war we succeeded, but only by working two hours more every day then vou did. Now our socialistia | government has cut down the tem- hour day to elght hours and it is difficult to sée how we can hold our own. We certainly cannot do so 1f we are to be treated as slaves rather | than men.” “We were getting on fairly we before the war came,” continued Dr. | Bucher. “We studled the wants of | the nations, and were trying to sup- ply them. We had large colonial pos- | sessions which we had begun to de- velop. They gave us much of our | raw matertals, and were gradually furniehing markets. Now these colo- | nies have been taken aw We have lost the greater part of our capital and an enormous number of our most | valuable men. The loss of man power which occurred from the war is our | greatest loss. Included in it wers more than two millions of our best educated laborers, and thousands of students, doctors, chemists and other industrial sclentists. We had one regiment of 3,000 men which was made up of intellectuals, including experts of all kinds. Not one came 1 YET ALL THE EMPLOYES OF THE GERMAN PLANT ARE QUITTING FOR THE DAY. 1STS HAVE CUT DOWN THE EFFICIENCY AS WELL AS THE HOURS IN INDUSTRIAL —— e e ized it will have a bigger export than ever. * kK X URING my stay at Slemensstadt I had a talk with Dr. Ing. Carl Kottgen, the chalrman of the board of directors, as to the business situs-~ tion present and future. He says Germany can have no real progress until conditions are settled and the | nation has & stabilized mark. Today | the bulk of the electrical trade Is do- | mestic, consisting of replacements and repairs required on account of the war, snd the changes in money values are such that business cannot be done. Said Dr. Kettgen: “The money of tomorrow may be worth only half those of Napoleon Bonaparte. The evidence of this is found in some doouments unearthed by the bolshe- vists regarding his actions in 1814 relating to the moblilization of the army in Rusela. What he wants Is to separate northern Germany from southern Germany and to hold on to the Rhine and the Ruhr either as an annex to France or as so closely al- lled to her that they will be an economic dependency. That man is the cause of most of our trouble to- day.” ““What should America do?” “I cannot say as to that. You are a funny people. First you come to Europe and do some fighting. You lend money and men. Then you drop out and say you are done with Europe but ‘please pay me my dollars.”’ You could do a great deal if you would, for you are today the richest and most powerful nation of the world. As for England, she is done for, and the expense of keeping her empire together from now on will be so great that she cannot regain her su- premacy. If America wants to help she should be Interested in and take part in European affairs.” * kX k¥ FIND the captains of industry all over Germany anxlous for Uncle Sam’s help. They long for the Ameri- can market, and say that their life- | back. We lost 1,600 such men during the battles of Ypres, and we wera losing speciallsts all the time. The building up of our factories and the resumption of our {ndustries, when conditions become normal, can be ac- complished; but it will be a genera- tion or more before we can get baock the brain power, the experience and the skill embodled in the educated among our best soldiers. “As to America and its part in Europe,” Dr. Bucher-continued, “I do not see how you can keep out. Mod- ern wants and modern communica- tions have made the world one vast whole. Distance has been annihllated and a blow struck in Paris or Berlin s felt the mext moment In Peking or Bagdad. America is only six days from Europe, and the wireless and cable bring the whole world to one's ears. The diplomacy of today has not recognized the change in condi- tions. It needs international organi- zation and international understand- ing for the business of today and the tuture. Emperors, kings and diplo- mats have passed away, and we have in their place a business world that must be managed along economic lines so as to supply the gants of all the people. We should all work to- gether, and this I belleve will be tha condition of the world of the future. (Copyreht, 1923, by Carpenter'y WorlaTravelsf .