Evening Star Newspaper, March 19, 1922, Page 67

v - / MOLYNEUX DESIGNED THIS COSTUME FOR THE STAGE asp ! SHOWS IT IN HIS NEW COLLECTION. WHITE CREPE EMBROIDERED IN GELATIN BEADS IN ROSE, BRIGHT GREEN AND BLACK. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. UPPLE silver cloth was worn by Katherine de Medici on her wedding day. As far as the world had gone it was the best that had been done for a bride. What- ever the courts of Europe have learned, Italy was the source, and the splendor of the de Medici ranks with the of whatever else made Italy and exceedingly beautiful. The silver- cloth gown of Katherine, embroidered in jewels, was in Kkeeping with the splendor of a bride to whom the peo- gave one hundred ducats in jewels, silver and in gold. > Throughout many centuries the ‘worlé considered ivory satin suffi- clently choice for a bride no matter | what her wealth and power. Here and there venturesome souls going to the altar thought of Katherine de Medici's silver wedding gown and copled it. Now a royal princess of England follows the example of the Queen of France. And in the train of that wed- ding gown will come a long comet- like trail of cloth of silver wedding gowns, more or less decorated with lace. The art of jeweling cloth was re- vived before the wedding of Princess Mary. It will continue to be a domi- nant fashion as the season develops. It was in its infancy two years ago, but it will be the means of wage earning this summer by thousands who may need employment. STAGE COSTUME, BY MOLYNEUX, STRANDS OF PEARLS AND A imp PIAMOND ORNAMENT NORM THE BACK OF THIS NVENING GOWN. plied frequently concerning new: Slashes a_nd Flares. Tnm are hip girdles of silver cloth, heavily studded with rhine- stones, red, green and yellow crys- tals. here are separate slee: of white silk net studded with crystals which hang in tatters over .a full sleeve of silver cloth. There are pet- ticoats of silver cloth, slim and un- dulating, which serve as a slight foundation for draped gowns of other fabrics. There are great pleces of decoration like the Egyptian plaques made of silver cloth jeweled. - These are placed at the hip to hold the drap- ery or strung about the neck by a harness of crystals and then secured to the front of the bodice exactly over the stomach. Such accessories are not left to themselves, however, for gowns of the most sumptuous kind are made of gold and silver, jeweled from shoulder to heel. Molyneux of Paris startled the theater-going public by ———— o MOLYNEUX’S GOWN OF GREEN LACE OVER SILVER CLOTH. putting a gown on Miss Teddy Gerard in her new English play which is claimed to be not only the most ex- I pensive but the heaviest gown_ of | modern times. It weighs _forty pounds. What it costs is not told. The metal cloth used is gold, not silver, and there is a streak of orange that runs through the weave giving a ripe- ness of color to the frock that is made more brilliant by the footlights. This frock has several traina. Just to show how reckless and expensive one can be when sensation is the motive power and money s not considered. This frock is so arranged that the trains can be taken off with the jew- eled belt, leaving a simple Iace ffock thickly embroidered in seed pearls: Molyneux has made. another gown of silver cloth which is not sensa- tional and can be worn by the average woman in search of & good-looking evening frotk. It uses silver cloth as its foundation and water-green lace an overslip. The latter is caught on one hip with one of the immense plaques ~that recent fashion has brought into the limelight. There are shoulder straps to match the girdle. * k% X X through silver and mauve or !ornn running through gold metal Ieloth is as old as the Pharaohs. But no ruler of Egypt wore better woven I fabrics than this new kind that has en sponsored by smart women sinee e turn of the year. i Women who cannot wear harsh | metal threads next their skin find ! themselves able to wear this supple Inew cloth with ita chameleonitke tones running through it. They may soften it with lace or pearl-embroid- ered net. It is rarely at its best when left to itself, yet some of the power- with< ful designers give it to women out trace of covering. . - ‘The designers. are . not . eupeciaily careful to keep this splendid: fabrié for gowns of ceremony. They use it lavishly, on dark blue serge, on white or be: brown kashas, on black crepe de chine. There seems to-be an effort to prove that metallic cloth is in high fashion, therefore it must be sprinkled about in a.libersl manner. The word sumptuous must be &p-, THI idea of water ng THE SUSDAT STAR, WASHIRCTOR o 9 ; ‘qeo : Princess Mary’s Wedding Gown : ' AVORED B& Royal Precedent, Silver and Jeweled Cloth Come Into Promi- nence, and Crystals Are Used on Net in Many Colors—A Stage Gown of Cloth of Gold Which Weighs Forty Pounds—Metallic Tissues Used on Blue Serge and Black Crepe for Daytime Frocks —Sumptuous Mode of Renaissance Quickens the Imagination of the Dressmakers, Who Are Making Sleeves in Greater Variety. cloths. There is not nearly so much simplicity as there has been. The universal cholce of a straight frock in crepe will soon be written down in history as something that has passed. When black is used, it is decorated in such & manner that one forgets the foundation. ‘Whatever fabric is incorporated in a frock, the best seems to be kept for the sleeves. If one likes the idea of a stralght gown of black or gray or mauve crepe, one appears to forget simplicity when the sleeves are Teached. Conservation of ideas goes by the board. Italy, under the throb of the Renalssance, is a more potent factor than the Quakers and the Pil- grims. Italy su sts a glorified va- riety in sleeves, d America inspired by France is an admirable imitator. * k k¥ THE scarf sleeve which she uses is rather well known by this time. The American buyers accepted it as a novelty with which they could do much. It is & straight line of lace caught over each arm, fastened tight at each wrist and left to manipulate tself. ‘The cape sleave threatens to become universal. Short capes themselves show the danger signmals of overpop- ularity in the near future. The long tight sleeve, which Molyneux put into As a general thing people do not like to be told to exercise. It is & nuisance and takes time that might be employed more pleasantly if not more profitably. The only women I know who really enjoy taking exer- cises .are those who are already healthy. Those poorly, anemic and lacking in energy, who are the very ones who need exercise most, hate its very idea. Yet to keep young it is absolutely necessary to take a great deal of ex- ercise. This does not necessarily mean that you must stand up with a pair of dumbbells if this form of It bores you, for you can find many pleasant ways of making the body vigérous.. But if you are to stay young, the muscles must be kept firm, tho skin must be clear and healthy, the ystem must be in as good running order as a well cared for machine should be. 3 You must breathe plenty of fresh air; if you cannot get outdoors much you can at least sleep with all your windows open top and bottem. You must breathe through your nose and not through youwr mouth, }Y_ou must drink suficient water every BEAUTY CHATS ,: 'C. Determines the Spring Style i L his black Japanese crepe gown last|Cannes this February. s repeated this year by sev- s. It is not mousque- taire, but it wrinkles around the wri ‘The trouble with 1 sleeve {s that it pulls up on the arm when the elbow is crooked. Every woman fights with that defect. The new sleeves overcome it by being longer than they are. The surplus is pushed up on the wrist. Then one can bend the arm one will. 2 Even the simpl ve in the new frocks is different from what was called simple last year. The ornate ones are slashed, others are melan shaped, which is a favorite sleevé to all those who copy a sumptuous epoch of history. There is gnother sleeve which fits the upper arm and flares below the elbow into a bag that fits the wrist and hangs well away from the armr even where it is joined to the upper sleeve. This is often of jewels, silver thread, and metsl cloth; sgain it is of lace, after the fashion Jenny, the Paris dressmaker, prefers. She features it as one of her new sleeves. She had such unwonted success with her square Hindoo sleeve, the arm- hole of which ran down to the walst, that Americans cock their eyes with watchfulness whenever she sends a new sleeve to this country. The milliners, started several in- genious ideas last year in the way of hat decorations as a measurs of persuasion to wo! to ignore the untrimmed hat. The milliners suc- ceeded. Not only have hats stopped being plain, but they attach to'them- selves something queer and something I‘nnl(nown. The match-sticks, the birds’ nests of wooden pearls sur- e ‘work. The dressmak have caught = trick from the Interior decorators as sance designs on street frocks; and, by the . way, the renaissance patterns have preference over the Egyptian points and the Moroccan triangles. The interlooking loopg and the wheel with {ts many spokes and ornamental center-are designs that the dressmak- 'ors ‘use when they want to splash ‘White or colored linen ‘tape on, say, & blue sergs frock. Such collars give a firm foundation for eyelet i 1 R i A » \ 11' iight be said in passing that blue .~ .ferge .has come forward dike a 'debutante. It has many rivals,, but its backers are powerful dressmak- ers.. Trimmed with white totton tape, half covered with eyelet work, it pre- sernts {tself as an easy victim to those who tafn out hundreds of gowns at|. small* prices, ready to wear. Ornate trimmings are still closely linked: with the sea. Fish scales sre! made into ropes and garlands. Flakes of seashells, pink and opalescent, are made into flowers which are used on the drapery of skirt or as a girdle, and these are.new. They are somy times strung together for long f- COSTUME DESIGNED FOR THE STAGE BY MOLYNRUX. THE JEWELED TRAINS CAN BE TAKEN OFF, LEAVING A LACE FROCK EMBROIDERED IN PEARLS. s | g q rounded by clipped goose feathers, the skull cap of lattice work done in crys- tals and silver as a port to a flar- Ing brim, the strip: k bag gath- ered at its small edge and slipped over the head as a t. and night a few of the measures by which the milliners have attracted attention this season. * % x x THE dressmakers, watching their colleagues, determined to try the | trick. They were weary of plain clothes. They believed that such clothes kept women from spending. |80 they imvented ingenious ways of decorating a frook. Some of them are novel, others are revivals. Jenny has put her falth in English | eyelet work. For this the Island of Madeira is famous, and any one who has been a tourist in those crooked little streets waiting for an ox-cart with & canopy for an afternoon drive, has stopped at small booths and bought the coarse linen handker- chiefs, table linen, and badly cut un- derclothes which the country offers as g means of selling its eyelet work. Jenny has adopted the exact Madeira patterns. No doubt the French imagi- nation took its cue from the exile of Charles and Zita of Austria. Not only does Jenny put thia eyelet work on frocks, but she uses it on heavy white linen for collar and cuffs, on blue serge gowns, also on black crepe ones. Paris, you know, is amusing itself with the American Peter Pan collar which the Americans wore at Deau BY EDNA . KENT FORBES. day. A glass of water, cool or hot, fifteen minutes before breakfast is an exoellent thing for you. You must eat slowly and chew your food thoroughly, otherwise indiges- tion and its thousand attendant evils will follow. Take a tepid bath every day. Miss E. W.—If your skin feels re- freshed after cleansing with & fine eoap and warm water, that should be your method for keeping It clean, but if it feels dry, With an umpleas- ant sensatfon as if it were being drawnfi you should use creams for cleansing. ‘This latter method 18 not so im. perative with the youns, but when ‘women grew older the oils in the sys- tem are being sbsorbed and water should be used sparingly on the face and throat for cleansing, even though the whole body is bathed fully several times & day. There are very few skins theugh that are net improved by using creams, and they will not grew halr If one uses the proper kinds. Never use hard water the ocemplezion; woften it with & fow drops of am- monia or & Dlnch of besax. | rings, - for the jewelers have per- mitted the dressmakers to encroach upon their prerogatives, and it is now possible to buy a tiara, & pair of ear- 2 jeweled girdle from the house that makes your frock. Not only | are snail shells strung together for earrings, but one girl in Paris wears bunches of frosted silver grapes In her ears. I Geod 'Salads, It Is a fact that nine men out of ten prefer some sort of salad with sand- wiches and chocolate or ooffee for evening refreshments to the conven- tional “ice-cream-and-cake” refresh- ments that oversatisfy the sweet tooth and are far more likely to disturb the digestion than a salad. And in these days when lettuce and other salad greens oan be had at small expense all times of the year these dishes are not difficult to concect. Here are some ggestions: Frosen Fruit Salad.—XMelt one table- spoon of butter and add the yolks of two eggs slightly beaten, and three and one-half tablespoons of flour mixed with three tablespoons of sugar, one teaspoon of salt, one-third teaspoon of paprika, and a few grains of cayenne. Add gradually, while stir- ring constantly, two-thirds of a cup of milk and one-third cup of vinegar. Cook in double boiler, stirring con- stantly until mixture thickens, the time required being about ten min- utes. Remove from boiler, beat two minutes, and set aside to cool. Cut candied cherries in small pieces, there one-fourth of a chp, and tablespoon of ‘lemon juice. pulp, ‘canned siHoed pineapple cut in small cubes and banana cut in small pleces. Add prepared fruit to first mixture, then add one-half cup of heavy cream beaten until stiff and two tablespoons pineapple juice. Pack in & brick mold to overflow, adjust cover, pack in salt and ice, using equal parts, and let stand two hours. Remove from mold, cut in slices and serve on lettuce leaves. Onion and Tomato Salad—Mince half &, Bermuda onion and a little Sweet green pepper. Put a teaspoon on each thick slice of ripe tomato and DUt each slice of tomato on a little bed of crisp lettuce ves. Pour French dressing over all. Chicken and Tuns Salad—Tuna is less expensive than chicken and blends alcely with it. Mix one can of tuna with a cup of diced chicken, one tablespoon of diced pimentos and two tablespoons of chopped olives or ou- cumber or celery sccording to the sea- son. Usge mayonnaise dressing and serve on lettube. 33 Pineapple Salads.—Canned pinsapple ean be used in different Ways to make deligious retreshment salads. If you like cream a little roquefort cheese with cream, and when you have laid the sllase sef pinespple en. lettuce leaves fiil :the eomter of each with the oreamed: requefort cheese. Darascls of Tudise Splindor BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. The Prince of Wales in India is)sols. responsible for two gorgeous acces- sories to spring costume—the fan and the parasol. The Prince of Wales' visit to India ‘was enough to give the French dress- makers stimulation, and especially since the war French women and French designers, too, have been in a mode to catch even at straws for dress suggestions offered by the acts or fads of personages who are in the spotlight of affairs. There are rumors that Princess Mary, Viscountess Lascelles, who has been kept down by & rather puritanic mother, is to be & leader of English fashion. Not for many a long year has any member of the English royal family been a real factor in fashions, save in an extremely narrow’ court circle in England. The Prince of ‘Wales has already started to set the fashion, and it may be that the smart Parisienne would rather admit to fol- lowing this lead than that of the falr Mary. At all events, the festivities con- nected with the prince’s visit in India have not passed without cohsiderable infiuence on French styles. sol of the moment is 3 that carried by servants over the heads of high Indian potentates. Some of .the parasols are really nothing but freakish novelties, but to be smart they must suggest some- how Hindu origin. One of the most popular is a square of.very bright colored silk with trimmings and hangings of exquisite lace and pearls. Bometimes the festoons are of stones that actually glitter in the sun. d- less to say, these parasols sre very expenaive, and as the French woman who follows this fad goes about un- | der such a parasol, it seems amiss that there is no swarthy menlal to carry it for her, so clearly does it suggest the bejeweled canopy of the high-caste Indian. . Somebody has spoken of the para- sols now in vogue as glorified lamp- shades. And. to. say sooth, there is not & trick that has been played in the making of lampshades that has not ente! into the making of para- Cut & bunch of celery into one: fourth inch gleces and cook in, water|’ Just to cover for about thirty fhinutes: drain and add to & cup of the water two _tablespoons. of .flour rubbad smooth {nto two tablespoons of soft- ened butter; cook untl thick, add one- half cup of cream and when the mix- ture is smooth stir in the celery and one pint of oysters, add a seasoning of salt and pepper to taste, ceok until the gills of the oyntets separate and crinkle. Serve on toast or erackers. The substantial double-service sunshade that was In fashion during the war and, in facf, was considered quite smart. is a relic of bygene Yyears. One's parasol now cannot be too frivolous. The sketch shows several of these elaborate and jeweled parasols car- ried at Nice. “‘TRAORD!HAIY PARASOL USED IN "PARIS, TAKEN FROM THE INDIAN CANOPIES. E P