Evening Star Newspaper, October 30, 1921, Page 23

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, OCTOBER 30, 1921—PART 23 \ French Milliners Do Not Change the Hat Styles to Any Extent BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. PARIS, October 24, 1921. N THE mind of the observer, hats are not new, but they are at- tractive. What more could women ask? The first and dominant move of the milliners was to realizse that the dressmakers intended to accentuate long skirts and long walstlines. As soon as the milliners gave recogni- tion to this knowledge they threw the big hat into the market. They do not ignore the little hat, for there is a large part of the public which ‘would go unhatted if it could not buy something small. No one can put their finger on any certain shape or trimming or material and say that this, and this alone, is in first fashion, for the hats that jumble against each other for first Place are numbered by the dozen. Certain fashions have been re- tained. The observer from America is nonplussed when she sees features still running high in fashion over here which the milliners and dress- makers have exhausted in America. In hats, for example, the French milliners have not released the side plumage that drips far down over the shoulder; they have not ceased to put the enetian masque veil across the front of a tricorne, and they keep soft felt instead of velvet as the favored fabric. ” ‘The dressmakers also retain certain overdone features. The American who came to Parls to see new fash- jons at the August collections raised her eyebrows at the extraordinary usage of monkey fur. Not only were the dressmakers faithful to it. but so was the public. The women at Deau- ville, the best of them, wore white capes with monkey fringe, and white gowns edged with it in such quanti- ties that it appeared to be a uniform. In September, when the smart women began to appear In Paris and new hats and gowns were shown to them, the observer still saw mon- key fringe as well as all other kinds of fringe. None of the dressmaking houses: was above using it. * ok k x WE in ‘America discarded he silk varfety last November, and as for monkey fringe, only. the exclu- sives would wear ‘it because it was done In France. The mass of Amer- icans objected to It. It is one kind of ornamentation that they could not be persuaded or cajoled into accept- ing. A monkey was a monkey to them, and they did not want to have one {n the house or wear one on their clothes. The repugnance seeped through to the slightest vagary of fashion_that included monkey fur. The dre ers also continued to use pleats in panels until September, until at_last they became common- place. The ¢hemise frock centinues, but it s changed by certaln manipu- lations of the fabric. It mo longer looks like a chemise nor & monastic robe. ‘The milliners run into stagnant spots of imagination as did the dress- makers. They show in the most ex- pensive hat the large feather or plumage of some sort that drops downward from the inside of the brim to the shoulder or walst. Sometimes this waterfall effect is in _chenille fringe; again it is in narrow velvet ribbon. The fact that it is there at interesting to Americans. all is Every one thought that France would dis- card it because it bas been over- worked. There is & of American who wears it well. e must look young even If ehe is not; she must have a thin face, softly modeled. and a thin, long meck without wrinkles or other signs of age. Added to these quali- fications she must be of the type that can carry extreme clothes without looking as though she had lost her right to social recognition. The felt hat which America began to discard last February is in_ the ascendency over here. It is not worn with a ceremonial gown, as a matter of course, but it fills the world of soclety whenever it is off duty. The shape known as “cloche” is not particularly preferred over here any longer, except among those who want to buy a comfortable hat, and who are not only regardless, but indiffer- ent, to what is first and last in fashion. The French use a type of felt hat that is as pliable as velvet. It has nothing of the stiffness of the hats that were worn in America last year. * k k% HEN this fabric is fashioned into large hats it is so supple and pliable that the brim droops and bends as though it were soft straw. It is this quality that gives it grace when it is made into those wide, Sec- ond Empire hats that would be un- pardonable if they were rigid. Satin is used for hats, also velvet, but they are ornamented with em- broidery or black plumage, not left in sharp severity. True, women con- tinue to wear plain, black satin hats in Paris, but they are infrequent and are not seen where women foregather for social purposes. The crepe de chine hat has van- ished. The Americans who continue to wear it over here feel that they are not in the picture and they soon discard it for one of felt, that is, if they go into colors. The black felt Lanvin has given the impetus to large felt hats in pastel colors. She accentuates mauve, banana yellow. fog gray and old blue. These she trims with large groups of flowers. Reboux still uses satin, especially when she makes a hat for service such as the collapsible one in shining black satin ribbon which the Ameri- ocaps like. She also continues the hat with a broad, draped crown shaped in front like a Russian headdress, and the wide brim dips downward in front and rolls up on itself in the back. This unequal type of brim is in fashion everywhere. Even in the snail-shell hats of Lanvin which have created a sensation the narrow brim is rolled tightly up at the back. In the Lanvin hats her entire imagination is placed upon decorat- ing the front, which is like a pointed tiara worn well down across the brow and jutting out over the ears slightly, oh so slightly, in order to hold the thick dangling ornaments like ear- rings made of snail-shells and pearls. The back of the hat is nothing. It merely rolls itself into a tiny piece across the nape of the neck and the tonl is like a folded skullcap of black satin. The milliners have not discarded trat partly Napoleonic, wholly Vene- tian tricorne. Along with it is_the hat that we in America call the Paul Jones. It is the formal shape worn by admirals in the Navy. * kX X TH’E French do not trim it with gold brald. They make it of felt | \nat has few followers. HOPES PARLEY WILL LEAD |FAVORS ENFORCEMENT TO NEW WORLD LEAGUE Dr. Crabtree Talks on National Unity at G. W. U. Con- wvocation. Hope that the forthcoming confer- ence on the limitation of armaments “is a step toward a soclety of na- tions, an international tribunal or a league of nations or the establishment of some other permanent way of aid- ing the nations to understand each other and to co-operate instead of ‘waiting for the costly and uncertain sottlements of war,” was voiced by Dr. J. W. Crabtree, secretary of the ional Education Association at fall convocation exercises of George Washington University in the Concordia Lutheran Church. “The ideal of a league of justice be- tween the nations is right, he said, “and in the end right will prevail. It is for this generation to have a part in the working out of this great ideal.” Dr. Crabtree declared that the most important lesson for the people to learn, is that of “getting along to- gether.” “Although neither individ- uals nor nations have yet fully learn- ed the importance of relation be- tween men and men, people generally are eager to get along wi.h each other.” . OPPOSES PLATOON PLAN. N: B. A. Disapproves System Rec- mended for Schools. Disapproval of the work-stud,~play plan, otherwise known as the platoon aystem, recommended by the federal bureau of education as a solution of the cengestion problem in the District was_ registered by 3 tree, _executive secretary of the Nat.onal Education Association. He expressed the opin- fon that an adequate building pro- sram Is the only solution of the over- crowding problem. Dr. Crabtree believes that Instead of eliminating the need for additional buildings the introduction of the pla- toon system will entail the erection of more buildings. The platoon sys- tem, he said, is a plan well worth giv- ing oconsideration, “but I do not look upon it as being a solution in any way of the problems of Wash- ington schools. The change from the present system to the platoon system, instead of uiring less building at this time, would In all probability re- quire more building: “The work-study-play pian,” he de- clared, “cannot be added without many new buildings. What Wash- ington needs is a sufficlent number of new buildings, and even if the pla- toon plan were adopted more would be needed, and more than are being arranged for at this time.” In Defense of Street Vendors. Te the Bditor of The Star: The letter relative to the ‘vendors from the down Delt of this city, written to the Commissioners by the M chants and Manufacturers’ tion Associal in yesterday's Evening to me, fair or ent, set forth in the above based on the as- of this its occupy no more B e o) right, are mNoc: to about the uented the strests as much than, the average to hear a com- ed treet ando N a 8 ‘vendor. Z‘! they meet a need of to make sev- lass space r 0 wish ut the custom lru the Arabs th:.t ?h- wife walk ehl:a the hu ° pand when ow$ in public. OF PROHIBITION LAWS Christian Endeavor Alumni Asso- ciation Hears Speeches by Prominent Pastors. Describing his travels during_the past summer in south Africa, Rev. Dr. Charles Wood, pastor of the| Church of the Covenant, amused the | members of the Christian Endeavor | Alumni Association of the District of | Columbia at their semi-annual ban- | quet, held at the Calvary Baptist' Church Friday night, with his humorous references to the methods of rail- road transportation and the customs of that country. Rev. Earle Wilfley, pastor of the Vermont Avenue Christian Church, made a plea for denominational loy- alty on the part of Christian En- deavorers, and urged that the great endeavor movement put itself forward solidly in opposition to the lax en- forcement of the prohibition laws. The invocation was offered by Rev. George A. Miller, pastor of the Ninth Street Christian Church, and the ad- dress of welcome on behalf of Cal- vary Baptist Church was given by Miss Dorothy Greene, secretary to Dr .Abernethy, pastor, who was obliged to be absent. j Acting under his physiclan’s direc- tion, and, owing to increasing busi- ness responsibilities, Percy S. Foster resigned organization, and Owen P. Kellar of Calvary Baptist Church was elected to fill his unexpired term. Vooal selections were rendered by Miss Mildred Smith, accompanied by Mrs. John R. Thomas. The banquet program was under the direction ot the vice president of the organiza- hn R. Thomas, and the ar- rangements were supervised by Mrs. Carris Allnutt of Calvary Baptist Church. Resolutions proposed by Owen P. Kellar, commending the Attorney General for his efforts looking toward enforoement of the prohibition stat- utes and commending the President for his efforte to limit armaments of the world through thp_conference about to assemble in Washington, ‘were adopted. —_— COURSES FOR GIRLS. W. C. A. Offers Variety of Classes for Coming Winter. Opportunity to follow most of the! particular “bents” girls are likely to i have is offered by the variety of, courses, classes and clubs arranged | by the local Y. W. C. A. for the com- ing winter. ’ Y. I & girl has a predilection for mu- sic, there Is the Monday Night Glee Club, where ehe can sing to her' heart's content in company with a big group as enthusiastic as herself. If er muslc runs to stringed instrument. For the girl that feels the urge to ‘write, there is & practical and definite short story course. For the girl whose ambition runs to the ability to care, properly for a good home and {ts con- tents, there are courses In cookery, sewing and millinery. If the profes- sion of pursing makes a strong ap- peal to a girl, she will find classes in, hygiene and home care of the sick. * In participating in any or all of these activities a girl will meet others just as interested as herself, and this combination of work and social inter- | course, it has been proven, is a great antidote to that lonely and long-way- from-home feeling. SCIENCE TRIPS PLANNED. A series of sclence trips for per- sons interested in plants, butterflies, birds, Indian artifices, rock forma- tions and outdoor biology and geology will be inaugurated Sunday by Re- search. University. The trips will be under the guidance of Prof. Titus Ulke, biologist. The length of the walk will be about five miles. The hikers will start at 9 a.m. each Sunday and return at 4 p.m. On each trip a botanist, a zoologist and a ge- ologist will help to explain the won- ders of nature. The first trip today will start at 86th and M streets. The cars will be taken as far as sview, Va., and the route will be thro the woods trafl to Black Pond, to Difficult run and to Great Falls. from the presidency of the| yUT Their Fashion Ide pears—One-sided Tri or satin, bind it with narrow silk braid, and place a ribbon cockade at the side. This hat is elongated, flat ends which give breadth to the face, and the method of wearing it pushed well over the eyes keeps it from being unattractive on a woman's head. If it slips the least bit back on the fore- head it becomes grotesque. The French women do not hesitate to put a Venetian lace veil, the two- inch kind that merely covers the eyes, on the front of this Paul Jones hat. It is not a good accessory for it, although the best milliners do not hesitate to advise it as a method of softening the elongated, straight line across the eyes. If the hat is satin, the veil is not badly placed, but If the hat is in felt, it must be worn without this touch of Italian coquetry. There is a small type of this hat which has no relation to Paul Jones r English admirals. It is a modifi- ation of the Russian peasant’s hat. 1ts two brims are semi-circular, meet- ing on a bias line above the ears, and the crown is merely something in between two brims to hold them together. Both brims turn straight up. Where they join over the ears the edges are outlined with thick, silver ornaments such as small ani- mals, or triangles, or crescents with ringe. These are of heavy silver and jungle as the wearer walks. The best known hat of this kind is In fog gray, with its edges bound in coarse, black silk ribbon. There is another one in black with silver ornaments. The hat is pulled well down over the head and does not carry either veil or hatpins. Really, few: of the hats show pins. They may be there, but they are carefully concealed. There is nothing new in the idea of these Russian hats, but there is no doubt they will continue to be in first fashion. The shell embroidery, thickly placed on the front of a black satin hat, is too much in the public eve at the moment to give one a feeling that the fashion will die out before the New Year. Whether or not such hats can be sold in America, where the shape was commonized two yvears ago, is not easy to tell. ~The average woman may look at such hats and say: “Oh, we' wore that two years ago. Its old.” But the use of shells creates a new impression. THERE seems slight Inclination on the part of the milliners to give both sides of the hat an equal chance of ornamentation. No balance is at- tempted. Molyneux consistently places his trimming on one side of a large hat with a huge brim. One would dread to travel on a ship that was ballasted in_that manner. In these hats the crown s curi- ously shaped, after the Chinese fash- ion; it rises in tiers to a point in the middle. It is a large crown, other- wise it would be entirely out of the picture of the hour, and on it there is sometimes a corded band of satin 7th and D Streets N.W. as Are Good Ones and Will Prove Popular, Says Anne Rittenhouse, Writing From Paris—Use of Fringe Is Continued—Pastel-Col~ ored Felt Hats—Tricorne Maintains Its Coquetry, and the Russian Bicorne Ap- mming and use of Wild Flowers—Disappearance of Veils. slippers and the hem of skirt. She was determined, therefore, that her hats shou.d be in fashion, so she stripped them of their flowers. * %k % * HEN flowers are used this season they match the hat. They are made of loose petals or fine braid in silk or velvet, or they are rich and Qull, massively massed on soft felt. ‘When jet ornaments are used they are in the form of the pointed front of the Russian head-dress and are placed directly against the front of the crown. The draped crown is not in the as- cendancy, though it is included among fashionable hats, but its drap- ery must indicate the pointed tiara. he brim that dips downward in front is preferred to the one that rolls upward, The brim at the back is often reduced to such small pro- portions that it can be flattened against the head or rolled up. The latter trick is preferred. There is no effort to revive vells, except in the case of the small Vene- tlan masque of lace. Even Lanvin has neglected to attach the flohting lace veil to her large hats. The shops continue to handle quantities of veil- ing by the yard, so the public must buy 1t, but few veils are seen by one who searches for fashionable things worn by women who have a right to impress clothes upon the public. Hatpins have also vanished from MODEL FROM REBOUX. WHITE FELT TRIMMED WITH BANDS OF BLACK AND GOLD BRAID AND GOLD TASSEL AT SIDE. to sharpen it. The brim is of the Merry Widow varlety, and swirls about the head like a solid cart- wheel. At the left side, placed well toward the edge of the brim, is a bunch of chenille fringe and velvet ribbon also in loops, and beneath this trimming on the under side of the brim is its exact duplicate. One sees few attempts to put color on these big, sharply cut satin and panne hats, but there is no hesitation in_adding white to them. White and black has not lost its charm or its savour and it holds its own against the tidal wave of color. Columbine hats built in black and white triangles with fluffs of ribbon S ‘Clarinola’Console Table Phqnograph Complete $98.75 ~ Easy Payment JWIAVILY Cabinet Model Clarinola 522 We believe in this - talking machine to .the extent of guar- antesing it for FIVE YBARS. Mahogany case; perfect tone. Let us send one to your home now or re- serve one for Christ- mas. “Pay as You Play” E STORE THAT SAVES YOU MO No need for you to buy an EMP- TY console and then go to the added expense of buying a phono- graph to fit it. Here’s the complete outfit (with phonograph installed all ready to play), handsomely fin- ished in mahogany. Itis 36%; inches long, 22% inches deep and 36 i inches high. Perfect tone—fully guaranteed motor, universal tone arm—an exquisite piece of furniture with the added feature of a sweet-toned phonograph secreted in one-half of the cabinet. ~ All-Metal Phonograph Plays all makes of disc records— not a toy. Just the thing to have along on the outing. loops at one end are worn by the best-dressed women. These ribbon or chenille ornaments are fashioned like chrysanthemums. The American who arrived in Paris early in June found that hats were not trimmed with fleld flowers, roses, pond lilies, nor wistaria. Even lilles of the valley were unknown. She may have brought over her new spring hats trimmed in such manner, but she saw to it that the flowers were removed before she wore the hats. It was not possible to quickly lengthen her skirts so she had to appear tagged as an American wherever she went in Europe because of the expanse of legs between her Open 8AM. Close 6 P.M. Terms hats; at least they are not visible; yet one sees quantities of them in #ay and gorgeous colors in the, shops. They are not on the heads of well- dressed women. The tentative attempt to push hats backward on the forehead has failed. They continue to be worn so cloge to the eves that the eyebrow itself is not visible. There is no effort toward oblong Men’s Flannelette Pajamas, $2 200 Heavy Domet Flannel Pajamas. Made with mili- tary collar and finished with pearl buttons and silk frogs. All sizes. At $2.00. LUCIE HAMAR SHOWS LARGE HATS AND HIGH CROWNS. ONE IS OF BLACK VELVET TRIMMED WITH SIL! ALUMINUM FRINGE. lines except across the head. No hats The Shopping Center—11th and G S!s. THIS R FLOWERS AND plane sets the style. A woman is are narrow except between the eyes | supposed to wear all the width above and the back of the head. The air- News for Men And Their Sweethearts and Wives 1,500 Silk “Four-in-Hand” Cravats, 55¢ Men will buy them for now—sweethearts and wives will select them for later Christmas presents. Think, only 55c for rich silk “brocades,” made up into newest shapes, with slip-easy bands. Just 1,500 to sell at 55c each—They’ll go like “hot cakes”—don’t miss this opportunity. Men’s Onyx Socks 6 Pairs, $1.75 1 Medium-weight lisle, in black, navy, cordovan, smoke and white. Every pair has Onyx label. Sizes 9% to 11%. At 6 pairs, SL75. On Sale Tomorrow—Pal OES) Newest Semi-Dress and Walking Pumps $9.50 _ Autractively Priced N No. 2—All-black Glazed Kid. No. 3—Black Satin, with French edge binding of light gray. Also of Patent Coltskin. No. 4—A French Vamp Model —made of Patent Coltskin. No. 5—A 3-strap Pump, of Patent Coltskin, with mili- tary wood heels. No. 6—Patent Coltskin, Black Glazed Kid or Tan Russia Calf. No. 7—A 3-strap Model— Patent Coltskin, with per- forated vamp and edging. No. 8—Grecian Sandal effect, of Patent Coltskin or All- black Satin. On Sale Tomorrow Morning— _Pl[nh Royal—Second Floor 1—Patent Coltskin, Black Glazed Kid or Black Satin, with insert of black suede. her temples she can carry. _— IEEEEEEESEEEEEEEEEEN EEESEEEENEEEEEEEESES - ThePALAIS ROYAL Est. 1877—A. Lisner, Prop. Men’s Blanket Bath Robes, $5 Heavy Blanket and Terry Cloth Robes. Made with collar and cord at neck and waist. About 50 to select from. At $5.00. is Royal—=Men's Shop—Main Floor. Model No. 5 Model No. 6 Model No. 7 EESNEEEgEEER II—IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIFI.II-IIIIIIIIIII-III-IIIIIlllll.lllllllllllllll