Evening Star Newspaper, October 9, 1921, Page 51

ing. Callot makes them of black lace, L] . e o o - e U e ANNE RITTENHOUSE. The Star’s Fashion Aui-:honty.. Writing From Paris, melg ...'.';'lf.'x;.;:.;":f: Z‘.’,,.,‘Z{ i‘lf,;:“‘:::‘ég:;.m.fi;:fi%’:?": el | . Takes Up the Newest Ideas From the French Designers—Sleeves of Length and W 8N shel are correct mi - y, - . . . o herle L tie s et %E?:‘;EEE&’@E@%&E}%‘%&% Glory—-Facts About Some of the Beautiful Fabrxcs to Be-Used This Fall and Win- P with straight trousers, Callot says it |wrists and are folowed vy little] | ¢eyThe Snail Shell as an Ornament. ; is quite wise to take oft one's sleeves | Monkoys eRr Lh when entering the house or to wear | where "‘m,:," :,‘.,""b‘f“‘.‘"v‘lv“d',{f: them as bracelets, the Madelines tell [monos in te lobbies of the hotels on thelr way to the beach, barely thelr patrons to extend thelr cloaks | gii ising their loin cloths of green to the hat in the back, Molyneaux |and yellow, no one attempts to credit says that the dignity and decolletage | seriousnes: quality among those who put on whatever creates a sen- of Alexandrian England is best for dlpily draped frocks for evening; Patou,| But this woman's trick of wearing like Franklin, draws lighting from |dozens of snall shells was not in- dividual caprice. It was proved late the skies for his frocks, and yet there | the season that the distinguishe are women who say there is nothing | house of Lanvin sponsored the idea. mew in clothes in Paris. The hats of this designer are cov- ered with snail shells, and huge Which reminds one of the Anzac).iocqugq of them are placed on soft who was asked to show his wound in | drapery at the hips. You know the the chest to an American woman. | shape of these tiny bits of shell, don't After she had examined the tiny hole | You? There is nothing gross or dis- tasteful about thei lor. Imade by the bullet that had bored 1ts | Thog are sracetul ans foi) of shior: way through, she sald: *“Oh, I thought | mering light after they are polished. Jt would be a large, ghastly wound.” f" the hat brim appears to be bro- aded with pearls. “Good graclous!” sald the Anzac. Pl PHow m: American women s ~TEE bat that Lanvin sponsers 1s the h coutourlers and exact shape of the Russian pea- l.l:‘;r ::te:‘fl::‘::uon. sant one, with a round, low crown, a Those square trousers are stimu- |Prim turned up sharply in the front, lating the imagination of women |TW¥CR In & wide scallop at the top Even & sedate Baltimore girl 1s think- | po, UTIRIShInG to & emall roll at ner dancing class 2 X ;x;t-;tp:::’:x:a::n:“; 'mmfntfy. Not | merely showing temple locks of the Ahit amy ‘one conld satoniahy Paitimore| - The House rarely Separts trom St (east affer tho socials sets ' to] JLo b0 oL head covering: The alter: selilch f¢ liao givén Birth ang fhe] o> ‘= (he spresdiiy Wintarhaiter Storles of soclal daring Which are|SllaPe Of colored felt, oh, 8o sortly colored in mauve or gray, without part of its personal history, but these | 17 VL T TEEES S0 IR e #pants,” as the youngsters insist upon | syjtable companions to the Eugenie #£alling them, are so subtle that they | frocks which are called after Winter- Gt avall Strena halter by both Polret and Lanvin, €an: - Poiret having made & brililant picture * kX X of them in his open-air theater, called {5 house of Cherult, on the Place| "7y go back to the shells: they are Vendome, which sponsors this In- | interwoven with enough embroidery movation, has long been assoclated|to ke?p n&em nl-on: he;;rlnl:n :nd trl;‘ey are placed against a lack velvet hat with ease after the soclal sets 1o|gr “Ianyin uses an astonishin fnuch so as the house of Worth, Yet|amount of velvet, not only in head- the best Frenchwomen go there; and | gear, jbut in gowns and suts. The _|majority of her street suits are in one finds there things that are ex-pj,.i or gark velvet, the hip-length pressive of fine French taste rather|jackets held in tightly to the figure than those brave exploits in fabrics|by a wide band of fur, the ragged kind that gives somewhat the effect z;tan done to catch the American dol-1 /o fringe at the lower edge. As she, So small are the flgures that one must look well to discover the pic- torial value of the fabric, unlike the Callot fabrics and those of Worth, would have big Chinese dragons, pagodas, bridges and other signs and symbols of the Pacific countries. It would have been foolish for Poiret to attempt to manipulate this fabric into drapery or to ornament it. He makes of it a wide, wide skirt, a straight blouse, large sleeves, and touches the g edges with gray fox. Of course, & ! Russian hat goes with {t. 1., In opposition, to this he builds a covered with a fine gold thread trac- ery which hangs in a straight line from neck to toes, passes between the feet, goes well out on the floor as a in, where it {s joined by two straight widths of black velvet that 80 over the arms. That's all there is to this sumptuous froci You, the probably say that is quite enough, for you don’t understand it as it 1. So much for the complexity of simplicity. Such fabrics as Polret uses are new ones for the season; they are not the preference of an individual designer. ‘There is a concerted movement among a powerful group of designers who are alding and abetting Bianchini and Ducharne in their expensive efforts to create a demand, widespread, sumptuous materials that are covered fon. Pictorial fab- . They represent an important step backward in dress. Not only China and Japan, but that immense land that rested on the deserts and the Inland seas, believed in the beauty of pictorial fabrics. We are dipping into their arts. Why not adopt the material and dyes if we have adopted the hip ceinture, the several skirts, superimposed, the tightened body below the waist line, the long sleeves that touch the floor? * * k % ALL the tngenuity expressed In new arm coverings has not ended in the sleeve which merely covers the arm. There is the scarf of Callot and Molyneux which crosses the shoulders and hangs to the floor, a scarf which these designers ask you to drop when you enter the house, merely another methéd of taking off the sleeves in the house. This is the new trick of the season. There are immense sleeves of square pleces of colored or embroidered fab. ric which snap to the top of the[f0S: sray hieroglyphics agaimst a bel s Pat ' shoulder and cover the arm when 1n | mooks Doiotd Baimce’ of “HEhimiae ATTENTION, LADIES the street, others which are attach&d|across the surface of his velvet gowne, and no one hesitates to use to an evening gown merely to VAIY |ipe" extravagances of the world for & Pt it from extreme decollette. Again|the ancient girdles. Carved ivory, || years, says they are very wonderful. e e ey o diy T i aven s mRediifor orep s cicimith Try Them, $1.00 Each vary a gown 2 m: as pendants. it “With Dlotorial fabrics at one's hana [ "TA1 2nIMAS 88 P Almond “Skiz Food—Feeds and whites in Parls, llr 8y to tollhow Ll:’s !n;h» —_— araway epoch, a; jen 't;:!w%(:v:r :::l co{nrlgt mla.n thew er:.!: In Indla tiger meat is esteemed as || blackhe brolderer steps in. Callot makes ki- |3 food. partly because there is a Hair Tonics—Make the bair grow. monos of dull perlaine, which is the | supcrstition th{u t‘?: tmx:-rt-l;o zhg‘ Scalp Foog. Cures d-gfi.&r A i~ t woolen used instead of duvetyn,|eater some o o strength an > e eTin g Stetes oLt WOl orial through embrold: |cunning that characterized the || MES. COON'S OFFICE 1305 Eye St X.W. ery; Cheruit splashes wide bands of 'animal. | r, or the francs of those who must[jjke Poiret and Callot, admires the fur e in the limelight in Paris, or their | called gazelle, much of it is on these occupation is gone. velvet clothes. Cheruit admires pony, ‘When this house advocates trou-|so does Callot, and this soft shining @ers as substitutes for underskirts of | fur is on coats and wraps, also turned ilk beneath an evening gown otlxmo superb cuffs that are quite too ulle one feels that the time has!grand for the name, borrowed as they ¢ome to regard trousers as a part of lare from the days of D'Artagnan and he new equipment of women. We Charles the Second. ave been accused throughout the With a broad hipband of glistening #ges of “wearing the pants. Now pony and a peasant hat covered with PICTORIAL FABRIC, SHOWING SMALL WARRIORS ON HORSEBACK,) BUILT INTO A RUSSIAN GOWN AFTER THE FASHION OF AN ANCIEN SKATING COSTUME. IT IS WORN IN VENICE BY AN ENGLISHWOMAN.! THE COLOR IS FRENCH BLUE; THERE IS NO TRIMMING, BUT WIDE| N1 OF GRAY FOX. and COSTUMES DESIGNED AND SKETCHED BY PAUL POIRET. SUPERB COAT OF BLACK VELVET WITH SQUARE SLEEVES AND SIDES OF RED SATIN EMBROIDERED WITH GOLD THREADS. GRAY FOX TRIMS ur'; THE] ARE TWO ORNAMENTAL BUTTONS AT THE WAIST. dull silver ribbon. At the lower edge | prestige to the Drettiness of the|is probably feeding the pigeons in it. of this bodice are embroidered eagles | gacona empire or the mystery and| This gown is old blue silk with o 15 SomoIn biack | Power of the Russian idea. One sees|a ceremonial quality in lte weave, " s surface cove - and gray. At the back, where the [too much of it everywhere to ignore riors in varied colors tilting lances. stralght bodice joins the wide Skirl;|it. but it his been changed in large there is a fantastic arrangement of | " = "o or what it once was. gagle quills fattened against the | Mmessuxe Hom What |t once FAS ody. aul Polret, probably, ke Clitot uses this fir green tulle for | grom it more than the others in his| Lhe Famous Schweizer evening gowns and touches it with| . vion “Srich 1s strange, for he % Z 5 ‘P . nd $ 155 Placksmeted sibhon . Witk alleen s | futnced by Msceso asd ",,,I,gg_wfl,“ rted Fabrics = v Paris—and for 50c to $10 p! than any clothes you Eve teful change from the blacks| persia for many years. His present ples on display at 1325 Riggs pl. n.w. FPhone :.na brocades that have filled the past 8383, wei season. collection, which is wonderful for All the varfeties of silk net and|fts color and fabrics, is part Russian what is called “tulle” over here are|of the Boyard epoch and part Venice trong rivals to valvets and bro- Sades® you mrust realize, because of | under the doges. He calls one of his the strength of the long skirt built| most successful frocks “The Boyard,” = N of several ers of material sweeb-| and he has made a Russian skating X b s InE Over e Ko Atiiss o thojr | 8OWD for a beautiful woman who is e T T e D PARIS CLOTHES!—clothes of tantalizing, elusive imitations and flmoglflca∨s. with | partly Rusélan. Naturally, she does CostNorLat poweat Cost. ) charm—Paris itself, with a new economy never possible velvet or brocade, for their every| not skate in it; she has taken it to 30-32 Florida | before! t must be light and fragile. 4 X 2 ',l‘nlg:a:gm;:;r!l{cn are x‘e:r:l torh:,hlsflitl- Venice. for the season, where she| MARTIN WOLF Ave. N.W. * = Imagine being able to embody in clothes you make an ,ussian s! s which per- ", s 3 STt the latter being especially in L8 S R s uhomcflnverymphereofhm.oimungfmcks powerthfougl the scceptance of the 3 — / with real Parisian finesse, of tailoring into your suits ‘wide, soft skirt by forceful designers. ¢ f v / 5 ion of line! And then i me i ke e, o etay by mp lete ally being able to save so much money that your pat- e rrect [ ' S AR ey Yea, i the e portmet rse tin 2 part is that you—yes, you—can achieve these won- € 2 : ders because of a marvelous new invention enclosed with every new Butterick pattern—the Deltor!—a pat- ented picture guide that means ease of making, Paris, the greatest sewing economy ever known! L] TheDELTOR ... ... ions at the Batterick pattern counter. Select the styles that Saves You 50c to $10 e . A most te gowns, suggests on Materials Alone Bt e e fies less material than would be ‘THE first thing that the Deltor does is to give you an podblmhwllhcmlwfn individual layout chart (yes, an individual chart—not 47°% jast a general chart but one for your exact size and for each suitable width of material). You lay out your pattern the expert’s way. You use ¥ to 1% yards less material—a saving of 50c to $10 on material for every frock. : THE Deltor saves you time. Everything the Parisian igi would do if he were making your very own frock, is clearly shown by simple pictures and words. Should your dress embody the irregular hem, the bizarre new sleeves, the Italian neck line, the Deltor shows you just how to achieve the correct effect. AND finally you have every lastlittle touch that makes for smartness—ideas for finish that could originate in but one place—Paris. You 80 instinctively follow the simple explanations that your finished frock must be successful, must be Paris. 2 BUTTERICK Style Leaders of the World B AFTERNOON GOWN OF DEEP KING’S BLUE VELVET AND BLACK l_.ad]es VET. ORMER 18 IN THE STRAIGHT BODICE, THE LATTER N SKIRT AND SLEEVES, BOTH WIDE. SILVER ORNAMENTS ARE AT AIST AND STRAPS OF SILVER RIBBONS WEIGHTED WITH TASSELS HANG AT INTERVALS TO H If You Present This Ad on or Before October 15th we will make the saying actual as|glistening shells, the woman dressed well as figurative. by Lanvin suggests something me- ~ Cheruit makes no attempt to con- |dieval, something forceful, far away ceal these straight trousers by using|from Winterhalter and his prettiness. opague- cloth over them. They are| Cheruit, also, dips into power when easily perceptible through outspread- | she deals with a gown that should be ing layers of colored tulle or through called the American eagle. Its trans- the side openings of brilliant brocade | parent tulle skirt, built from yards of frocks. The idea behind the fashion |material in differing lengths, some is_ convenience, for if women will|touching the floor, is of the dull dance and if they won’t wear short|green of mountain fir trees. The skirts—at least in Paris—then let them | bodice, straight as a tree, reaches to Bubstitute for the knce-length petti- | the hips and is of the fabric pulled coat a divided underskirt that reaches | around the body over a supple lining; fo the ankles. These trousers are|the slender shoulder straps are of dark in color, opaque of fabric, un- trimmed. They are as wide as the average underslip which women have a Bt Worn for years beneath evening gowns; they are divided straight from hems to hips. The women say they are the best invention yet for danc- Garden Rose Beauty Parlor 1110 H Street N.W. Franklin 2224 Expert Service * 5 Y I AUl Leather L'N'C Flexible Arch. | Cannot Hurty, low line of the foot, MR FOR FASHIONS Parisclothesforevery that the Deltorwill in- BiggerBargain Prices on Furs —THAN EVER, due to the lateness of the season. Values worth snapping up in a hurry, before cold- er weather sees prices ad- vanced. ETA Deposit Reserves Any- thing—Coat, Scarf or Choker. Harry Bachrach Mfgr. of High-Grade Furs 1303 G St. N.W. Opposite Droep’s. Main 3927 ieicalass service far excosds the intrinsic value of the corsets themaslves. ‘They aremadeiin 48 to $15.00 SMART SET CORSETS— (13 model) 250 t> 1200 They appeal to those who wish to be correctly corseted yet want to feel as though they hadnoneon. They are madein a variety of materials. CIRCLETSFor All Pigures (16 models) $1.50 to $5.00 ‘They are Seif-Adjusting, have neither Thooks nor eyes ‘and do for the upper part of the figure what the corset does below. They equalize the ‘bust and shoulder flesh and make an unbroken line from shoulder to hip, ., Be fitted by a corsst hygisnist in any gosd store .