Evening Star Newspaper, October 3, 1921, Page 18

CLOTHING INDUSTRY WASTE IS CHARGED) Saving of $240,000,000 Could Be Made Annually, Report Deolares. By tho Associated Prets. NEW YORK, October 3.—Annual savings of 40 per cent, or about §240,- 000,000, could be' made in the men's ready-made clothing Iindustry, with its yearly output of $600,000,000, de- clared a report by the American En- geering Council’s committee on elim- ination of waste in industry, md: ublic here. The report, on :ll.lnnul investigation of the indus- try, asserted that management and labor alike were responsible for the enormous waste. . Seasonal shutdowns, industrial dis- cord, the “sell-then-make” polioy, lack of standardization of appliances, conditions, work content and method, and inefficient planning. were given as the chief sources of waste. Sales Policy Scered. “The most fundamental cause of waste,” it was added, “is the tradi- tional, fear-inspired, order-enticing sales policy, which expresses itself in wide varlety and its attendant make-to-order basis of manufactur- ing.” ‘What seems to be needed, asserted the committee, is that each manufac- turer limit the number of models and cloth, styles, bridge the slack seasons by manufacturing for stock, and adopt vigorous, positive selling meth- ods, backed up by effective, national advertising. Industrial discord was said to have grown chiefly out of recurring sea- sonal employment, although the work- ers also were sald to retain “vivid memories of the mere wage pittances they received in their former years of sweatshop exploitation.” Unlonisatien Results. “The result,” said the report, “has been a rapld unionization of the In- dustry. -Since unionization, strikes have been relatively' infrequent. The collective bargaining agreements for- bid strikes, lockouts and stoppages and o’;"m: lmu&rual m;:hlnm and procedure for adjustin isputes.” ‘Woolen mills were cfim«l with & widened spread and even gambling in cloth, the whole process of purchase and delivery of woolens being described as conducted “on a basis which many other industries aban- doned long ago.” The need of a trade association ‘was pointed out by the report, which sald that “in no other industry is research so nearly ignored. Men and management should be brought to- &ether to foster good will and to Promote co-operative study of the technology and science of industry.” Progress Commended. The committee commended “prog- ress away from the sub-contracting system in tailoring” and “develop- ment toward the establishment of large and stable manufacturing in- stitution which do their own fab- rication—called talloring—in large e P.“'l'he drift in__every industry proves,” it was added, “that manu- facturing on a contractual basis must give way in the long run be- fore the obvious economics and bet- terments of a self-contained plant executing its own plans.” “The outstanding fast of the men’s ready-made clothing indus- try,” the report concluded, “is that it is alive from top to bottom. Everything -is in flux—everything is in _review.” The chairman of the cammittee, which presented the report, is J. Parke Channing of New ¥ork. " BODY OF BOY FOUND. Hanging by Rope in Cleset, With Hands Tied Behind Back. CHICAGO, October 3.—The body of Samuel Buffington, a fourteen-year- old high school boy, was found hang- ing by a rope in a clothes closet in his home yesterday. The lad’s hands wers tied behind him, leading police to believe he may have been murdered, although the boy’s parents held to a suicide theory, explaining that Samuel's knowledge of woodcraft might have enabled him o do the tying himself. ll Provide instant, clean, steady HEAT when and wanted. All sizes here. Appliance Co. 607 14th St. | Branch stere, Washingten way and Electric Building, 14th and C Sta. N.W. | \J IAGARA | iy H EXCURSION i | | THURSDAY, OCTOBER 13 - [ i [ifl The last excursion of the serfes i From WASHINGTON for B wr o e o Tt TRAIN LEAVES ‘WASHINGTON ........ THO Bm. Dining Car Attacked The ideal Route to Nisgura a daylight ;l‘l Valley. e Proportionate fares from other [ points. Tickets good for 16 days. _ THE EVENING B Prices For the stout woman, expert designers have deftly adapted the ultra-modish in apparel and built it on those long, becoming lines that really do slenderize the figure. Unusually priced, yet with no sacrifice of those little elegancies, that nicety of line, which one usually associates with only higher priced apparel, are these garments singled out here for special attention. The complete assortments point out very definitely the ad- vantage of making your selections now in the Special Size Section, Third floor. You Wear a Coat a Long Time —for that reason you will appre- ciate the advantage and excellent qualities offered in this collection of coats. Attractively priced, $70. New coats display novel stitching and boast of large collars, that may be worn open now or later with one’s furs. Soft deep pile fabrics, excellent tailoring, with ‘its attention to the little details of good workmanship, add further to emphasize the splendid values, Tailored Tricotine Suits $65 Strictly man-tailored models of fine tricotine, in navy blue. Showing the slashed back with inverted slot seams —the slashed sides, finished with bias strappings and embroidered crow tacks. Most models have one or more tailored inset pockets, notch collar and narrow belts. An unusual fea- ture in some is the light colored lin- ing in the waist part of the coat, which protects your fine blouse. Sweaters in Extra Sizes All the new weaves and colorings in Jersey, Wool, Silk and Fiber Silk; in sizes 48 to 54, are now shown in the Sweater Section,Third floor. Afternoon Dresses of Canton Crepe, $65 —typify the slenderizing tend- ency of the Autumn mode. The dropped surplice, with the much talked about uneven hem—the dress with full pleated blouse and apron overskirt, beaded in cut steel beads—the influence of the Directoire mode seen in the hand- some model, effectively trimmed with applique of gray georgette, nail heads and gray silk embroid- ery—and the low waisted dress, with draped overskirt of geor- gette crepe, appliqued in flowers of georgette outlined in silk em- broidery. These models are in- dicative of the varied delightful ways that crepe dresses have. Separate Skirts, Smartly Pleated, $22.50 The separate skirt has become quite * indispensable to the woman of to- day. Nothing is smarter for street wear, and the slports woman finds it equally practical in her field. Smart plaid, checked and striped Prunellas in handsome color combinations; con- servative models in navy gabardine, and dress skirts of navy or black silk faille offer splendid choice for every wearing occasion. l An Exclusive Costume Suit from England One of our latest importations, is representative of the authen- tic and authoritative collection of exclusive Tailleurs we are ' now showing. " Suggesting the Directoire mode, in its longlined. coat, paneled front and back, with fullness shirred over the hips, giving a rippled flare. Devel- oped from English mole velour, with deep band and high collar of mole-colored avocet. Priced $225 Sult Section, 1’!!1( fleor. s Women’s Afternoon Frocks of Individuality $110 to $150 Reflect Paris, in Line, Fabric and Coloring Individufility in dress is perfectly attained in these distin- guished afternoon frocks—including models from Nemser, one of the foremost of America’s designers. Developed from the “finest of the fine” tricotines and twill cords, superbly tailored—fashioned on long lines, subtly’ slender.- Displaying the utmost in artistic treatment of exquisitely col- ored beads and embroideries, conceived from ribl , silks and braids. Real laces in deep ecru fashion the lovely vests in some and in others we see the belts clasped by unique ornaments in silver colored metal and beads. An unusual color harmony, that besp s of ingenioys design, is shown in the mandarin-like frock, of navy blue twill, hand- somely embroidered in a Chinese design, which is worh over a chemise dress of soft duvetyne, in the new red shade, “Callot _Rouge” = Wondmarh &3 What Stout Women Will Wear for Fall Coats, Suits, Dresses, Skirts In Especially Featured Groups, Em; Excellent Quality and Georgette Overblouses Avre Surprisingl Good Values ’ $5 Four new models, of the popular hip-length, tie- on overblouse, favored this season for suit wear, from which to make your selections; both in the dark street shades and flesh color or white. Beautifully embroidered designs in contrasting colors, outlined in iridescent beads, distinguish these models, ‘each an excellent value at the low price we are asking. ¥ Bection, Third Soer. 25 dozen pairs Women’s Full-fashioned Silk Hose $1.75 Pair Pure Black Silk Hose with lisle garter tops and soles. A hose of excellent ap- earance and splendid wearing quality. p Hosiery Sectlen, nlr)n Soer. g q y » New Three-Strap Pumps This Three-strap Pump is different from others in that it fastens with buckles instead'of buttons. A graceful model which the charm of French originality modified to meet the most distinctive American tastes. Fashioned of finest quality patent leather by one of the best makers in the country, entirely by hand. May be had with full Louis heel, as illustrated, or with Baby Louis heel. Also shown in Black Satin with baby Louis heel. Both materials at $13 pair, plus tax. ‘Women's Shoe Sectien, Third Soor. \ "Two Favorite Cravat Styles for Men —-Diagonal Striped Silks and Knitted Silks. New Pencil Stripes in diagonal effects and every imaginable color; dark, rich, subdued tones are largely in the major- ity this autumn—browns, maroons, blues, reds, purples and black. THE TWILLED SILKS with bias stripes to contrast are very smart and the value is a most attractive one. ‘$1 each. HANDSOME KNITTED SILK NECK- WEAR—more popular than ever and we have an assortment that comprises every good plain color; heather mixtures, cross stripe’ and bias stripes—many of the striped effects are in clusters of two, three and four tones; the Jacquard and embroidered figured Knitted Cravats are the most elegant we have ever shown. $2, $2.50, $3, $3.50, $4 and $4.50. HANDMADE KNITTED OR CROCHETED TIES, plain colors and heather mixtures. $2.50. Men's Furnishing Section, First Soor. Women’s Top Coats % from England ‘ $39.50 An Exceptionally Low Price For Coats Such as These * . Models selected by our personal representative while abroad. Made from English nap cloth, a light-weight but warm, sezviceable fabric, some- what like our chinchilla cloth. - The Godet flare shown in the model illustrated, gives an entirely new that wil very popular because it is so generally becoming. . The . new, wide Jenny sleeve, which extends from the shoul- ' . der to the waist, is an- ~ ‘other. smart feature. Other models are shown “on the sthart straight B lined.wkhhslvysilk. flooz. ‘ .- lines, with' lasge collars and worn with or with-~ “out 'belts.. Each'fully TAR, WASHINGTON, D. ©, MONDAY, OCTOBER S 1821 " fhrop A=W Close 6 PM. The Wool Fabrics Fashion Has Chosen for Autumn’s Smartest Apparel Different designers and creators of fashion differ on the features of the mode, which are the most beautiful and distinctive, but all are agreed on the fashionableness of these fabrics. There are fabrics for every woman’s desires and requirements— indescribably charming weaves capable of creating garments that mark the universal appeal to all womankind—style, becom- ingness, individuality, beauty. The newest woolens are rick and warm in texture, but not bulky. Prices are very reasonable—much lower than last year. Duvet de Laine A fabric of just a little greater weight than Broadcloth, with the slightest suggestion of a pile weave; dull lustrous mat finish. As serviceable as it is elegant. Evora There is a warmth, refinement and beauty about Evora that ap- peals to every woman who ap- preciates a fabric of elegance for Coats and Wraps. Warm, supple. with just the right amount of body and depth of pile. Panvelaine This soft, deep pile fabric lends itself to the most exquisite and intricate embroideries, or luxu- - rious embellishment of furs. Or it adapts itself equally well to simple tailored garments. Velour de Laine Another of those wondrously beautiful soft weaves of such versatility that it may be used for coats, suits and frocks. Its manner of shading from light to dark tones and its fascinating soft finish are but two of its virtues. Wool Velour Checks Here are fabrics with enough dash to be_different—bold, yet not conspicuous —two distinct shades in each piece is-separated by a fine line of a third color. Soft, warm and- durable for mo- tor or sports coats. Ay Pebble Cheviots In varied soft-tone:heather col- orings so fashi e now. Fab- rics that give tailored smartness to garments of simple distinction. Amerlcan Broadloths A large showing of this superb weave. Sponged; shrunk and ready for the ngedle. High, lus- trous finish. g Gerona Is a new coating fabric of this year’s creation. Different in weave and effect from anything heretofore shown. The warm, furry, plushy surface and its sleek richness of finish will make it a great favorite. Velours No one could question the beauty or the modishness of the new Autumn velours. Their soft fin- ish and pliability _well ‘adapts them to either the plain long lines or the soft, draping folds. Puma Cloth Is new this season-—a diagonal weave with a soft long nap of silky finish and sleek seal-like ap- pearance. Made of very fine worsted yarn and woven with un- erring care—for coats, wraps and suits. Herringbone Tweeds These are among the leaders in suiting fabrics. In a variety of smart two-toned misty colorings. A very durable weave. Belgian Broadcloths With this importation comes an impetus to the fashion for broad- cloth" that is again placing this queen of woolens in the front rank of favor. These are London shrunk (cold water process which prevents shrinking and spotting). Chamoisine A fabric of comparatively light weight, yet sufficiently warm to be used for most winter gar- ments. Pliable and smooth. Twills and Tricotines Poiret Twills and Tricotines are iwo weaves much in demand. We have only the fine weaves certain to tailor well. The colorings are numerous, fnc’uJy'zl'g such entirely new shades as these, among many others: Sorrente - Maroccain Navy » Malay "' Men’s Biue Zanzibar Bay Leaf Tortolse Marabou Black Marmot Byzantine Pyramid Volnay Seal Brown Open : )u\:w. 9:15 AMTM 19 d)