Evening Star Newspaper, July 17, 1921, Page 60

‘Much That Is Victorian: Appears in the Newest Midsummer Fashions BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. HERE is a close link between | tho fact that it will want new Paris and the United States|clothes In a few months and the during the dull season. Every | future is too hazardous to take stock 5 > | in. one feels sure that the inspir. e b Rt for néw Cothes, iak, Welh a4 [POSSIBLY the public is right. Yet i Problem of Fringe—Tight Skirts and the Modern,]aclcet present ones, can be gotten by keep- fng the camera focused on the the . reporter of /fashions: con- French. stantly keeps an eye on the horizon, fally Lanvi d Poiret and their sat ] i cagerly telling what is to come rath- | 181y Lanvin and Polr Foe If weo are to believe (h'e dress- | O% m.’; what has arrived and is | ellites, to Insist upon the silhouette makers. it is evident that Victorian- | pasging. Such is a reporter's life. |that ruled the world when two ism is not dead; it is galvanized into | Such is her trade. queens, fast friends until death, set greater action each week. What | It 18 true that if one tells what 18 | their mark of approval upon cloth H 5 k. What | oing®worn in the United States at | wiish the _suceceding . generations| 1. Tance does in July the states will|the moment of writing, there Is little | have stigmatized as hideous. had nothing to do with the second begin to do in September. It Will |on which to base a reasonable vision | ~Here s the contrainess empire, but throughout the ages, since teke us a year to accept in its en- | ¢ near future, but if one writes | nature: Now that we are. about to |y, value, tiret eenin reesidt \5" | 5f what is being worn in France, not | begin to wear these clothos we cons | yo" learned its decorative VAl ety a French revolution and gnly by the French, but by hosts of |sider them quite smart and attrac- the sunshade has been a thing of pro- r wiil take US a year to get over our | Americans who are here buying |tive. Victorlan accessories are tection as well as coquetry. We ban- ished it decades ago and took up the v sturdy, practical, black silk umbrella when we abandoned most of the fash- fons that appeared to hamper our movements. It was France who turned the prac- tical umbrella into a thing of coloring and artistry. For some reason that the meteorologists have not explained, It rained during the four years of war in Europe. French women walked in the rain. Once they rode or remained at home. Also they were able to buy several hats and gowns In pre-war days, but during the war they could not, and would not, buy them. Those who made money were afraid to flaunt their prosperity in the faces of those who had lost all. This was the practical reason that brought umbrelias into fashion. One might add that the most inclement | weather, or severe poverty. did not | persuade the French women to wear |rubbers. ‘That they would not do. They let their feet get wet while they sought to keep their heads dry. It i when the practical American sees many of these inconsistencies in French habits that she is not sur- prised at the high percentage of tuber- culosis—greater than in any other country, experts say. France sacrifices much to beauty. Rather one should say that Paris does this, for it is an odd fact that’the smartly dressed women are centered in the great city. Outside of it, as outside of London, one does not find artistry, nor good taste, nor beauty. In America it is different. There Is much the same level of dressing every- where. It was because Paris sacrifices to beayty that she forsook our tightly rolled, black silk umbrella, with its in- conspicuous handle, and developed an amazing variety of rain protectors. When the summer came she could not glve up the enthusiasm of her depar- ture. She invented sunshades. She! made such things as the world has never seen. The mid-Victorians may have liked them, but one thinks they would have better suited the gay and daring ladles who clustered in_the court of George the Fourth. They might have been severely banished from the maiden Victoria’s court by that ruler of Buckingham Palace eti- quet, the queen's former gaverness, who was the daughter of a German pastor. In addition to the parasol there has come about a fashion for tiny carriage sunshades. Once they were used in the dayi the high-swung victoria was L 5 in maroon and a pair|SOFTLY PLEATED. VEST OF HLACK VELVET EMBROIDERED IN WHITE. ‘ Dl a ‘-f horses drew the ladies through! THE JACKET IS EDGED WITH FRINGED RUCHING. When Matters of Dress Are Considered—The Sunshade Joins the Shawl—The -—Shav;q;ls From Spain. riot among the crush of people rush- ing, shoving and standing on each ele- vation to see her wondrous beauty. * % kX 1S lovely lady wore clothes that regulation WHITE TAFFETA COAT OVER. WHITE GEORGETTE CREPE SKIRT, the public parks in the afternoon hours. The French women do not use these small sunshades in their |]avishly scattered over the landscape| Gontaut-Biron to get an aperatif be- motor gars; they serve when they |at Deauville, on the Normandy coast.|fore lunch at the little green tables, walk in the Bois and they put them e - HERE., where the smart world|these Victorian sunshades may play crowds itself into the tiny Rue|an important part. If they do, a « s.avh|new fashion will be established. w:s1) -Thepe 18 no doubt that the Vie- /| torfan ‘shawl will be attached to the majority of gowns. It is not of Palisley, it did not have its origin in India, as did the queen's shawls. It is made from a piece of the gown material and heavily fringed. One of the eccentricities of the hour, {'which is not Victorian, is to use .{ monkey fur instead of silk fringe. We of America are so tired of fringe. The exclusive houses in New York did not even wish to handle it after the end of March, yet over here it is accepted by select soclety; lav- iShly accepted at that. There are certain women who, when selecting their day wraps, pre- fer the romanticism of Venice to Victorianism. They like the . long, enfolding cape. - They wrap their figures in many crepe folds. Those who choose the shawls accentuate their brevity. You can take your choice. Or you can accept both gar- up to shield their eyes at the races. It iz expected that they will be b KIRTED GOWN OF BLACK CREPE SATIN WITH FLAT ROSES OF THE ON THE LEFT IS A WID! MATERIAL AROUND HIPS. CREPE WN TRIMMED WITH L SILK FRINGE. A VICTORIAN SHAWL IS PLACED ACROSS THE SHOULDERS. THE CREPE TURBAN IS SENSATIONAL. AT EACH SIDE THERE ARE HUGE LACE WINGS CAUGHT UNDER THE CHIN WITH A LONG PEARL PENDANT. o3 RO ; 2 & Lt et faeling of aggravation when we dis- ]«-mmea, spending hours and large |cepted by the most daring ‘of ‘women cover that we must swing back from |sums of money to get information of | who, if she were told a year ago that our own fashions to theirs. just |what will be worn in September. then |she would wear bonnets tied under when we were enjoying the former. |the mass of Americans are sure to [the chin, lace mitts and’shoulder We grumble, but we do it. It |get new ideas. shawls with fringe, would have would not be possible to be so start- | They should: be glad of this|raised her eyebrows fm derision and lingly surprised by the incoming of | chance. Our women are sufficlently [used a phrase which is delightful to a new fashion if women would only |alert to want to know what is|American ears, but which the elegant yegard th> midsummer fashions of coming. French deplore. }‘rflkncf' as 35:-?;‘— m'[ Th;-er;l"r:sm Naturally the French do not refer F TR makers us o experim to the fashions of the hour as an in- The result is shown in August. dication of & return to Victorianism, | A\l Of know about the full skirt, 1t seems a waste of space, a fool- | They refer to it as a revival of the the kind that is distended at the ments. It is natural that the popularity of the shawl which matches the frock has brought out more and more | Spanish shawls, but the latter are kept for the evening. A clear dis- tinction is made between the two types. In Paris the women are still dressed in dark colors on the street and even Senianad 1t does’ovor 2oal ahiesy | ANNE RITTENHOUSE Says There Is No Evidence That Vigtorianism Is Dead || Tt #iot only continues to float; it has reached the proportions It may come about that tuates is the use of the lact few hats will be built without it. cape. For “The Pink Lady” he makes| Certainly it will soften the bril- a poke bonnmet in old French blue.|liancy of the colored silk and felt hat places a thick black lace vell over it which is in evidence on every corner and lets it fall over a White georgette | in Paris, showing a remarkable re- gown, down its full length to the|bellion to the established convention hem. ' This is a most unusual fashion. [ of black hats in the street and velvet 1t appears to prove that the lace veil| hats in midsymmer. [ermme ) WOMEN Women have set their hearts on . in the Public Eye arate blouses. It will be a gala sea- Mrs. William Howard Taft. that reaches upward to the hat. The|is not dead t idea is essentially oriental. nother feature that Lewis accen-|of a flag. son for the home dressmaker if she catches on to the fashion. She may be- convinced' she can manufacture one part of a gown out of faded bro- e curtains, and one has a terrible feeling she may become so_enthusi- astic that she will use old chalr cov- erings in this manner. us did the economists preach ARE ' NING. 10 Women, in. other: days, ‘et the| . . PY MARGARET B. DOWNING. ready-to-wear _manufaciurers put| No woman who has ever been first most of this nonsense out of the heads [of the land has flled such a variety of women; the fact that a few mil- "ty Of women; the fact that a few mlil" |of roles in the capital city as Mr ing stroke. The price of labor, the Taft or has enjoyed a longer and Yaiuation put on ong'e gwn time, the fcloser association with the historic cost of serving food to those who f the Pres 5. S o SfaaeTYing, Tood o those mng |home of the Presidents. She was Bmount that the average woman fled | Just entering her teens when she vis- to the shaps and bought what she |ited Mrs. Rutherford Hayes and shar- r’lntad- She felt wisdom rested in|ed the honors with Miss Molly Hayes t act. 4 o at a juvenile ball in the east room. All . However, it is not wise to discour- age home dressmaking. Sinc at- | through the Hayes administration she terns have been perfected by certain | paf 1| hi men into ladmirably worling. ma | id long vm.uv‘ to the White House. chinery, since one«is not compeiled to | #Rd to occupy it as mistress became one of her ‘day dreams. Mrs. Taft was struggle over the g::::: tfi:tdr::m: ssue ..paper that|in Washington as wife of the solicitor since materials are offéred to us dn | Beneral of the Department of Justice great quantities and at reasonable | during the term of President Benjamin prices, it would be unwise to always direct the feet of wamen to the cases of manufactured garments; but one must advise the most ardent home dressmaker to get new material .for such garments as these new blouses. They are’an innovation in Parls, h ing their vacation at gay spots under blue skies. ‘They- are of taffeta in bright colors and they are cut after the fashion of those shapeless waists worn about the time. of our civil war, The sketch shows one. It is of bright pinks taffeta, proclaimed by smart women as the-successor to red and the rival of mauve. The surface of the taffeta is embroidered in blue grapes and vines, another way the - French_have of proclaiming the glory of the grape and its free use in a land of individual liberty. The sleeves are wide at the edge and the neck is cut in the shape the French call bateau. It is worn over a blue serge skirt which covers the hips and is. fitted tightly to the figure by & heavy band of embroidery. None of these new blouses flare at the edges. Also, they are beltle | | They slip over the head when they are not buttoned down the back. Their originality lies in their color. We are not familiar yet with bright pink embroidered in bright blue in the form of a blouse. It is a startling de- parture from beige, white, brown and black. Such a blouse can he worn with a dark thin skirt on the beach, at country clubs, on hotel porches without a cov- __= MRS. WILLIAM HOWARD TAFT. Harrison, and her residence during the second Roosevelt administration ax the wife of the Secretary of War is familiar to many who still reside in the capital. Soon she will return as the wife of the Chief Justice of the United States. * % %k % Mrs. Taft may figure in the role of those firat ladfes, and of whom Mrs. followed it in spite of the stress of social and domestic duties. Mrs. d- ing became expert as rculation manager of the! Marion Star. Mrs. Taft: €hose . pusic her vehicle of expression. She spent a full term of three years studying at the Cincinnati conservatory, renouncing during this period every pleasure which inter- fered with her studies. Having taken her degree, she was tendered a place on the teaching staff and for two years she gave all her time and atten- - tion to this work. She then resigned to marry William Howard Taft, a childhood' eompanion, and to whom she had become egzaged in her early twenties. But her love of music and her desire to promote the cause led her to’ aid in the formation of the Cincinnati Orchestra. Though her days were filled with home duties, she took over the posi- tion of manager of this musical venture. Any one who keeps apace with such organizations knows the splendid record of the Cincinnati Or- chestra. It was only when Judge Taft was appointed military governor of the Philippines that she relin- quished this arduous post. A fine silver service and punch bowl, which were the pride of Mrs. Taft's home on K street when she was wife of the Secretary of War, was one of the many tokens of regard which the usic-loving people of Cincinnati b stowed when she was leaving for orien Mrs. Taft is a profound believer in the higher education, and her chil- dren have all realized her ambition for them In that regard. Her only daughter made an exceptionully brii- liant record at Bryn Mawr as student, professor and acting president. * % ox % The musical events planned by Mrs. Taft when she was mistress of the |SEPARATE BLOUSE OF BRIGHT PINK TAFFETA EMBROIDERED IN BLUE GRAPES AND WORN OVER BLUE SERGE SKIRT. BLACK VELVET HAT HAS PINK ROSE AT ONE SIDE. ering, and it may be a forerunner of & new type of waist which will be worn in the autumn under short capes of those loose jackets that have cape sleeves. Do You Like Perfume? Do you like perfume? There are some persons that don' you know. Louls XIV, it is said, used %o much of it in his youth that he grew to have an antipathy for it and would | sh extravagance in words, to keep | second empire. The Anglo-Saxons|hips or gathered t mpressing this thing upon the read- |are more comfortable in their know! h“‘; we :: not re: 0"::"":"‘:: Mlmcl' ing public.. One of the astute judges |edge when they hear the Anglo-Sax- Simple of fashion insists that it s as |on name. This much the French |circular skirt has been admitted into be six nur:nxhq hefore t:e fas ‘s{:nuld re:lnembe[r: that Eugenie l;»r the best society or that skirts with six mont! 2 it when one the secon empire was dressed LA Writer or illustrator of clothes, Worth, an Englishman. and ahe wore | 162V7 cable cords at the hems to is right. Y the clothes that prevailed in the Brit- keep the material from coming any- ing that prophe ish Empire. where near the figure are as common :::(p:)'ul-’\'\- ;l:—lr It s lnt!resllng ;ha(mwo;th.l the those narrow ones stretchedacross plic des . young successor of the elder designer Possibly, the public only wants to | 3f the ‘second empire, does met. jend |1 SPine. The advent of the former | know what is being worn. Not what | nimself with any degree of enthus has made the appearance of the latter will be worn or what may be worn. [asm to the clothes which his house [appear out of the ploturd. - v It buys for the hour. It builds its|made famous on the continent. mgetet s ':::. :’ et bird's nest of clothes to suit present It is left to other designers. espec- » s tightly stretched across the end of the hips she keeps the jacket on te hide it. There are still tight skirtg Don't be misled into thinking that the gar- ment is non-existent; but it is cov- ered up. It is not worn with a blouse tucked into the waistband. When a jacket is not the method of concealment, - flaring overskirts of lace take its place. It ia the fashion gatin as really lacl the hem to stand away re; not content with flares over the hipas. for the continuation of the tight skirt when a varfety fashions are in existence. ended hem and not at.the hips, that tI seventeenth century Spanish idea will way to the mid-Victorian idea. kirts lengthen they will ‘widen and even though they remain short on the street there will be loose pleats or thick gathers to prevent the prevailing accent of attenuation. Other_things which are reminiscent of the Victoris era are the sunshade, lace mitts and the shawl with*fringe. Once upon a time such accessories were considered by cur modern: minds as too ugly to discuss, too m to reappear. 't here they are, thrust into our eyes at turn in: Paris. And fringe is on the iwl and on the sunshade.- It may be of silk or mon. \ key fur combed to fineness. They are not tired of monkey fur over here. - - - ‘The sunshade has gone beyomd the furthest aspiration of a Victorian lady. It is made of straw as it was:in th olden days, also of silk petals, as it L% A "APE 1S OF BLACK AND WHITE MONKEY FUR. ON RIGHT IS A BLACK SILK S at the races which have been moved from Paris to summer resorts, but they do not object to a riot of color in the evening. They like white frocks, which is another return to Victorianism, and over these they wear pure white shawls of embroid- ered crepe edged with silk fringe, but when they choose evening gowns of black, red, green and yellow they are quite apt to add a gorgeous Spanish shawl. They keep it on when they dance, for they consider it adds to the grace of ‘the body. The American thinks this is true when a French woman dances the tango, but when she dances the American jazs, interpreting it in the wild and hectic fashion of ans, one thinks it might be better to lay the Spanish shawl aside. It goes with majesty of movement, not with gymnastics The smail shoulder shawl is grate- fully received by a public which has wearied of naked necks and arms constantly exposed in the market places. The Victorian drapery over this: nakedness may be a sign and symbol of what is prophesied. A re- turn, in costumery at least, to the most demure of days. it * ¥k % MR& ‘Vernon Castle tried to intro- duce the fashion for gold tur- bans several years ago, but it did not 'have the same suce: a8 her bobbed hair, Spanish slesve and ribbon ban- deau. This summer the effort in Paris to bring a lace georgette into first fashion has a chance of meeting with succt 7 Lewis makes a tight turban of cloth and’ gold as the foundation for this lacdé:veil. The latter is draped under the chin of .the wearer and caught high on one side with full-blown pink roses. The veil drops over the neck. shoulders and arms, making an at- ‘] traetive accessory to a low evening goWa uf black crepe. At.each side of thve "turban are placed jade and jet earrings which hang to the oh er. ?;:h,orlentulm of the head cov- ering jnay not appeal in its entirety not brook its use on those about him, at times. Other people outgrow an early liking for it. Still other persons never like it. It seems overpowering and heavy to them. They even like the heavy-scented flowers, some of them, like tuberoses and honeysuckle. But let that scent come from a bottle and it_makes them faint. White House stand out in the annals of the mansion. She has several other achievements which will be related whenever White House history is under discussion. She reorganized the personnel of attendants and dis- pensed with the uniformed guards in favor of black-coated ushers, such as may be seen in private homes. She ‘Well, if you like perfume in these days ; placed the evening levees on the same indeed, fortunate, for never | plane of elei before have there been such charming containers for it and ways of using it. The very bottles it comes in are a d light. They are made of colored glass, sometimes of frosted glass, through which the brilliant color of the perfume, green or amber, red or violet, flickers delightfully. They are made of poi- tery and they are made of enamel. Some of the distinctive French perfume makers put their product in charming bottles, with little characteristic marks. One uses stoppers formed of a bunch of colored glass flowers. Another always puts his bottles in charming little silk- coveged boxes, with lids held in place with tiny bone slides. So, whichever way you turn there is something individual in the perfumes you see—in the containers, that ia.. And many women spend a small for- tune each year, not. so much because they have a taste for the expensive per- fumes, but because they are allured by the containers of the expensive per- fume. . It is nothing new to go in for one kind of ‘mcent, in perfume and- toilet ‘water, face powder, body powder and sachet, The yoman who follows this often has’ one of those chasming Poiret—small lolr Ngh! electricity, with a little cup in the top wherein a few drops of perfume are put to - dried and disseminated by the heat from the electric bulb. ‘There are ty perfume holders for the wall—1i bits of filagreed holders to hang there, or else holders of pot- tery, with perforated sides through '\l;reh the-scent of the perfume comes. And there are besides tian per- fume balls of silver lagree it are hung about the meck or carried about on the finger. Date Toe Cream. ve’ with one cup of sugar e orr” unlti Biff, 884 ‘one. teaspoon amt! 3 n 35 vanila ‘?xtru:t. then add the nce as those given by the executives of other countries, the buffet supper giving the long-needed touch to the_ presidential amenities. In recent years this former presiding lady of the nation suffered u severe nervous collapse, but she is now al- mogt restored to her normal health. Mrs. Taft was Miss Helen Herron. daughter of Mr. John B. Herron of Cincinnati, who was the law partner of President Haves. Fine Clam Chowder. Chop fout cupé of clams after remov- ing the heads. Parboil four cups of potatoes. Cook one chopped oniol d one-half cup of salt pork cut in cubes. Arrange the clams, potatoes, onion and pork in layers in a saucepan. Cover with three cups of boiling water and simmer until tender. Blend three table- spoons of butter with two tablespoons of flour, ada four cups of scalded milk and stir until bofling. Add the clam mixture, sczzox taste, o8« dash of tabasco sauce, and rerve hot. Sweet-Corn Croguettes. Grate the corn from twelve ears. Cook together one tablespoon of butter and two tablespoons of flour. When thesc are blended add slowly two cups of sweet milk, into which has been stirred a pinch of soda; Cook this mixture. stirring all the time, until you have a thick, white sauce, add to it the chopped corn and one-half teaspoon of powdered sugar, with pepper and sait to taste. Remove from the fire and set aside to cool. When cold form with lightly floured hands Into croguettes and dip each in beaten egg and cracker dust or bread crumbs. Set all aside in a platter in the chest for several hours, then fry in smoking hot fat. Boll Jelly Cake. Beat three eggs separately very light, then slowly beat :in one cup of sugar. Add one tablespoon.of olive oil. Bift one AFTERNOON FROCK WORN AT THE PARIS RACES. IT IS OF BLACK | to the average American woman, but she - must recognize ' the important fact that.it brings back into fashion the gold turban and it introduces, also, along-forgoticn fashion of cov- ering: the shoulders with & late vell v ;vu wh-llt: Victoria was vonl!'. and of ¢ MR £ Y ace as it was when Eugenie reigned. | SATIN WITH DISTENDED OVERSKIRT OF BLACK LACY AND PEPLUM STRIKING TURBAN OF WMITE STRAW VEILED WITH BLACK LACE. | In Idd'“““-‘l" :' sometimes trimmed | gy LACE AT THE HIPS. THE FLOWER AT THE V" * .30 1% ;I;’.G ENDS OF LACE FALL FROM THE STRAW ouum’rq AT EACH "nnm.nmm';lxg: s:-:hnm GLOVES ARE BLACK, THE PARASOL I8 BLACK, Ei..—.o wias. o e — e e E. THE EFFECT 18 MEDIEVAL, 588 sugar it of flour and. tw teaspoons of bak ;:’:&‘o D) — '“WFlln: mw :;d cl:‘ppotfler three. times and add at last. ) of fi ch es, | Beat quickly and.spread on a dripping wm- Mummd :m , mrnw’.gufiu pan. Bake about .thirty minutes. Re- decorate with stoned dstes and stars of | move anluyhk!y fromth and sweetened cream. with jelly while hot, Il quickly.