Evening Star Newspaper, June 23, 1921, Page 28

! | | . BY ELENORE DE WITT EBY. !' ‘WIIl skirts be long or short? That 4s a question which greatly interests eilady just at present. A little more than e year ago Paris decreed that akirts should be short, but conserva- tive America held to the long lines for quite awhile, perhaps to show the foreign dictatar that she didn't have te "obey.” Eveatually, however, the STREET DRESS OF NAVY BLUE GEORGETTE AND FRINGE. short skirt was universally adopted by designers in the United States, and now Paris has autocratically nounced its doom. Again American modistes seem to be defying Europe HAT OF TAN GEORGETTE, TRI MED WITH A SATIN BOW. by keeping the short skirt. but it Is probably only a matter of a few months before they will succumb to the Parisian edict. American women will be sorry to lengthen their gowns, for the short skirts have two inval- uable qualities to bestow on the wear- er—youthful appearance and comfort. The street frock flustrated is an attractive model of navy blue geor- gette, particularly suitable for hot summer days, as it is sleeveless. The bodice has a wide square bertha col- lar which hangs in deep folds both tront and back. and which is caught together over each shoulder. Under- neath is a plain sleeveless blouse. gathered in at the waist with a sash girdle of black satin and copenhagen blue ribbon. The skirt is composed of four successive tiers of accordion- pleated flouncing, each one edged With fine black silk fringe. i Undoubtedly lace is the loveliest fabric for gowns for summer social functions, and when it is combined with satin and tulle it is simply ir- resistible. An unusually dainty mod- el of this type has a foundation of pale yellow satin, and over it is an entire dress of fine champagne-col- ored lace. The blouse has the low Moyen age walst line and is cut with kimono sleeves and a deep V neck. Both sleeves and neck are outlined with a three-row border of tiny black beads and more beading extends in parallel lines down the blouse front. The skirt is cut in scallops at the lower edge and hangs longer at each side. The scallops are finished with black beading to correspond with that on the blouse. A loose sash of light yellow tulle is knotted over one hip and a large cluster of black grapes adds an effective touch of trimming. Light yellow tulle forms a foundation skirt and is visible where the gown is short in the froht and back. The hat sketched is a becoming model of tan georgette embroidered in applique work of light orange. The brim rolls up at the front just a tiny bit in modified directoire fash- ion, and the georgette which covers it is unadorned. The crown however, has an elaborate pattern of orange applique to relieve its severity. A huge bow of tan satin ribbon at the front adds a distinctive and youthful touch of trimming. Newest Ideas in the Shops ABY hammocks may be used either to swing above the ordinary hammock or else to swing from the top of the au- tomobile. They are commodious and choose your sash—this is seemingly the last word of advice about sashes. Some of the new ones are made of half a dozen colors in the sheerest chiffon, looped and swathed about the figure. Others are merely rather stiff safe for holding the baby, as they have sides sufficiently high to keep the child from falling out. - And real- * 1y they are equally useful-in garden or automobile, for they form, in the automobile, a comfartable nest for the baby. one that is free from jolts, in the garden an out-of-the-way nook that is above the curiosity of inquisitive dogs or cats. There aro some most decidedly pretty hats of colored organdie trimmed thickly with stitchery of braid. The braid gives the thin or- ®gandie just what it lacks in body and stiffness. and helps make the hats capable of holding their shape. ‘The trimming on many of the new hats is down hanging and floppy. In one very smart hat the rather over- done black cherry is effectively used. A band of black ribbon goes about the lower part of the crown and from this at regular intervols hang black cherries, with long stems, drooping over the edge of the brim and hang- ing down over face and hair., A charming frock shows a redingote @t heavy braided black taffeta worn over a white organdie foundation, much embroidered in bright red cot- ton threads. Chiffon wide enough for sashes, in warfous colors, is finished with ma- chine hemstitching on each side. Pzrasols of silk of two colors are in evidence. One particularly pretty one shows a pink parasol quite com- plete, with a loose black parasol, a 1ittle smaller, overlaid on it. The two are fastened together only at the fer- rule end and along the ridges. Shirring Is used in many of the mew parasols as a decorative element. ‘White skirts are worn with coats of practically all colors. One par- ticularly attractive combination is the cream white skirt and the Chinese Blue coat, with creamy lace waistcoat. Heavy Canton crepe is the fabric used for coat and skirt. Be fantastic if you can when you cotton cord braided into nunlike girdles that loop nonchantly at the front of the frocks witlt which they are worn. PR = Did you know that you could buy boxes of assorted seashells—lovely little shells of pink and yellow, pearl gray and opal? You can, whether you know it or not. They are to use in_fish globes. It is also possible to buy perfectly harmless coloring matter with which to tint the water in which your fishes swim. Blue and rose and yellow col- oring matter are sold for this purpose. Gingham blouses are mmuch_in vogue just now. They are very often made with a collar and cuff trim- ming consisting of white muslin pleatings about three-quarters of an inch wide. White organdie collars, cuffs and belts are used on simple frocks of white dotted swiss. The two fabrics are combined most attractively. The plain and decorated surfaces go well together. ‘Wide fichus are the features of many of the new organdie frocks. Perhaps these trimming accessories ame at their best when they are bound about the edges with a narrow bias fold of organdie in another color— pink or blue or white, or white on pink, blue or violet. ‘There are very attractive two-toned veils, consisting of a_central portion of one shade, with a border of either darker or lighter color. One such veil is of a fine, soft weave of tan for the center, with a| border of. heavy seal-brown chennile dots on a dark brown background. Cretonne parasols made with two sections of cretonne, one inside and one outside the framework, are made in a rather large, flat shape, and are carried with cotton and linen frocks. The almost grotesque handle, of carved and painted wood, is quite permissible for these or other para- sols that are carried about in the morning. % Scientific Scalp Massage. Many people pretend that the only value in using hair tonics is the stim- ulation that the necessary massage gives to the scalp. This is not en- tifely true. Certain conditions of the scalp can be overcome by the use of proper tomics when only a very little bit of rubbing is used. These ocould .not be overcome with even the most faithful massage. ‘A combination of both is the best. Find out what your scalp needs in the way of ointments or tonics and use them faithfully. At the same time give the scalp sufficient massage to keep it stimulated. A little should be done every day, no matter how unscientifically. When the hair is taken down at night it uld harnds through the hair thumbs rest against the back head, and then with the four { each hand to manipulate with a rotary motion—that fingers do not move over the but instead they make the scalp move. This loosens it—liter- stretches it a bit, so that there is room bemeath the skin for a tiny layer of fat from which the roots of the hair can draw their nourish- ment. The thumbs, which serve as an anchor, are mv;: from place to piaces, 80 that the fingers can cover the whola Ip; in front of ear ‘they” allow the fingers to sl §5 1 L b massage the front and top of the head, and held against the neck they allow massage of the lower back of the head. If the massage is done with a tonic 80 much the better. This treatment faithfully done in youth will keep the hair young in middle age. Sally—That rash on your chin will likely disappear if you take two yeast cakes each day. You may take them spread over crackers and eat as you would sandwiches, or they can be dissolved in a half glass of water. V. M. T—Deep breathing will fill out the hollows in your shoulders and chest. Massage a good aream into the neck every night, which will nourish it. Use cold water or ice on your skin after removing all soil from the porea. u’G‘dG‘. G.;dA weak solution of boracic s used as an eye w and the druggist will direct you. e Jelly Roll. Cream some butter and one cup of sugar, add two beaten eggs, then one- half cup of milk and stir in one cup of flour which has been sifted. with one scant teaspoonful of baking powder. Stir the flour in gradually and beat well, bake in a shallow pan; when done turn out quickly onto a cloth, spread with jelly or jam and roll up neatly. Wrap in a cloth to preserve the round shape. ouse, Laura. A Kivkman ‘What Are the Lighting Conditions in Your Home? Not long ago I explained to a very young housekeeper, who asked me, the modern ideals of home illumina- tion. I carefully pointed out to her the dangers of a direct glare of arti- ficial light, and the benefits of the new direct-lighting system. And she said, “Thank you, so much!” But yestyrday I dropped into her new. little home {she is a bride) and found there the old-fashioned: lights, with brilliant hanging dome in_the dining room and exposed bulbs or semi-shaded bulbs throughout the rest of the house. “I thought you were going to have diffused light in- tead of direct, glaring ljght?” I ven tured. ““Oh, yes,” she replied, “I dic think it would be nice—but one can't have everything that's ideal. Most of these lighting fixtures were wedding presents and the rest were already in the house when we bought it.” 1 What can one say to a viewpoint like that? As if the best were not for each and every one of us? Further- more, an indirect system of lighting will save oculists' bills in the end—so it's an economy. And I hope every one of you who — HOME ECONOMICS. BY MRS. ELIZABETH KENT. Some of the light silks listed as suitable for summer wear are chiffon cloth, crepe de chine, crepe georgette, faille, foulard, habutal, India silk, pongee, rajah and taffeta. These, of course, differ among themselves in price and weave, and are suitable for various purposes. Chiffon cloth is a soft, gauzy plai voven fabric. more durabl than iffon, suitable blous: Crepe de chine is one of the best known and most used of all the silks, for gowns, blouses and under- wear; it is a plain weave, of semi- luster, and crepe surface, from forty to forty-five inches wide. It washes very well. Georgette is a plain weave, forty inches wide, used for blouses and the sheer sleeves and yokes of gowns. Faille is a corded weave with surface in light ridges, a yard wide, used for coats, frocks dnd trimming. Foulard is the favorite for the sum- mer silk gown, as it comes in a great variety of attractive colors and pat- terns and keeps its shape and luster. It is a twill weave, twenty-seven to forty inches wide. Habutal is a Japanese silk of plain, lustrous, close 307 B -six inches de:range of price and v: it washes well, and is much used for white blouses. India silk is an old standby of plain weave, lus- trous and thin, usually a_yard wide. It makes useful dresses. Pongee and rajah are rough silks, washable, used for suits and coats, coming in natural colors or dyes, very serviceable. Good taffeta, unadulterated, remains the best ail-round silk for the money. in wear and appearance. It is a plain weave, in plain or changeable colors. (Copyright, 1921.) Green has the reputation of being one of the coolest of colors. There is something refreshing about the girl in a green organdy frock or_green linen on a midsummer’'s day. But to look coolest green should be worn alone or with white. Combine it with rose or blue or yellow or brown and you have something that is anything but refreshing on a warm day. Pure white is supreme in very warm weather, and every summer we find that, after all other colors have been boosted and talked about and praised, white wins out in the race. The col- ored frocks are discarded sooner than those of white. It is always your pure white things that receive the hardest wear on your summer outing. In general, blues, violets, and greens are cooler than. reds, yellows or browns. But there are shades of lemon yellow or the real empire yel- low that look attractive even in warm weather. For sports wear there are shades of rose and red that have strong appeal in summer, though for evening wear these shades are bet- ter left for winter. 5 In every woman's wardrobe there should be some frock suitable for street wear, made of some dark, cool, silk fabric. A frock of this sort an- swers admirably for the unexpected trip to town. that catches you with your light clothes at the cleaner’s or laundry, or undergoing renovation. Moreover, the d. looks spotless and fresh at the end Summer Colors. 1 lark, cool, silk frock are reading this article will take it seriously—and not merely throw (}.own your newspaper with a vague, “Yes, an indirect lighting system would be nice, of cours 1 hope you'll do something about it, if your lighting system Is wrong. What is the ideal lighting system? Correct tificlal lighting is that which is diffused (that is, shed evenly —like daylight) from a source that i3 entirely concealed from the eyes. If you have one of the old-fashioned hanging electric domes over your dining room table (which has a clus- ter of bulbs within sight of the eyes if they look up at it), then the best thing you can do (for few of us can afford to change fixtures) is to stretch a piece of cream or amber-colored silk right across the bottom of the dome; otherwise, the white table cloth, or the highly polished table, will catch the refiection and throw it up into the eyes of the diners. Or if your old-fashioned dome has gas in- stead of electricity, then you can ob- tain indirect light by concealing the || gas mantle in one of the porcelain globes now on the market especlally for this us But—best of all—if you can afford to, or if you are building a home of your own, you can have one of the in- verted bowls over your dining reem table. which hide the cluster of bulbs and throw the light up to the white ceiling, and the room is, thus, lighted by reflection; this is the ideal diffused light. gnd now for the living room. What kind of droplight shall we have? The ideal here {s the same as in the dining room—but on a smaller scale. The most perfect arrangement is a drop: light which has the electric bulb sunk in a cup of china or metal so as to hide the blub entirely from sight, and over it is a white-lined shade which ! reflects the light and sends it down upon the table. Take care that the ta- ble sdrface is covered with a cloth, for a shiny surface will throw a glare up into the eyes. If you cannot have one of these droplights which has the bulb-concealing cup, then at have its shade come well down 8o as to cover the bulb. The need for indirect lighting is this: “The iris of the eye opens wide in very dim light and closes down in very bright light—and this constant “sece- sawing” which must take place when there is a very bright spot of light near, from which the gaze must travei to darker places about the room, re- || sults In eye-strain, which may iater develop into blindness. It also results in headaches and general nervousness for which mang of us can find no re son! The motlier of school childre particularly, should look into th question. of your trips as at the beginning. Black is a good selection for the woman who does not look insignifi- cant or too pale in black. Navy blue is a good selection—though better for this type of frock is the blue that is darker than true navy. Brown in gen- eral js a warm shade, but there is a very dark brown suggesting taupe that may be included in the list of warm weather colors. —_— For evening wear jeweled bands are worn low over the forehead. . The wide peasant sleeve is the one most used for the box coat. (9.14:11:44 COFFEE DELICIOUS WHOLESOME HEALTHFUL BUY FROM YOUR 6ROLER least | A Suite that will add distinction to any Dining Room. It comprises a Long Buffet with fine Plate Mirror, Three-wing China Cabinet, Open Server, with drawer, and 48-inch Pedestal Base Dining Table. In spite of its beauty and fine workmanship, it is very moderately priced at JU 12 — WOMAN’S PAGE eeeee HAVE_IT CHARGED IF YOU wyes, LIUS LANSBURGH; FURNITURE € NINTH STREET A Distinguished-Looking Colonial Dining Room Suite In Dull-Rubbed Mahogany Finish Largest world revolutionize washda Sensational new product saves you hours of back-breaking rubbing POUR INTO TUB of Inke- warm water—mix well. Keep adding the sofution until you get a good, rich, lasting, soapy suds even after the clothes have been put in. Then let your clothes soak—and rinse with- "Soap Makers in the Jected to foccenturies! Those hours of*rubbing you used to do got the clothes clean but it-was a terribly long, hard job. Soaking has always meant less rubbing. world, by a special process, have perfected a soap product which soaks-clothes clean. This marvelous product, Rinso, is a perfect combination.of pure, cleansing materials, that loosen and dissclve the dirt from-cyen the heaviest pieces of the weekly wash, without injory to a single fabric. You do not haveto rubeny‘but-the most badly soiled spots such as-collar These statements would be hard to believe if they were not made by;the makers of Lux. Lux made it poesible to launder silks, woolens and all deli- cate fabrics without injuring them. Now this new product, Rinso, makes it possible to do the regular weekly wash without hours of back-breaking rubbing. I&tm;wduhulwctmddmhafewm See the simple yet fall directions given at the side. Don't rub your youth away. Get a package of Rinso today at your grocer’s or department store. Lever Bros. Co., Cambridge, Mass. - WASHING MACHINE OWNERS Get beautifully white clothes with Rinso. Follow the regular directions given here, adding a fresh Rinso solution before operating machine, The results are wonderful. _any hard rubbing soaks clothes clean without