Evening Star Newspaper, June 19, 1921, Page 61

Paris Indulges in the Gayety of Straw Parasols and Handbag i NNE RITTENI:IOUSE Reports Many Fascinating Details of Dress Have l Appeared With Warm Weather—Gauntlet Gloves With Bright-Colored Cuffs BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. MNXTURIES ago Europe took up the fashion of colored 4 straw ahd went into an ec- stacy over it. The episode re- peats itself this season. The Paris Tt is one of the details of costumery that has swept smart society, and. as always, those who follow smart society, even if far behind them, are buying these accessories to a coat suft at small prices They have short or long sleeves, they are sometimes collarless. nearly always surplicc or double-breasted THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. millisers took it into their clever .beads to ofter parasols, handbags and vells built entirely of straw or sdged with it; they made plumage of It, shredded it into fine flues and make tassels to imitate the Arab veils which hang over one shoulder to the waist. During ‘the peace conference the and extend only a few' inches be- low the waist line. Of course. they 80 over the skirt. They make an admirable addition to plain coat suit. As few of the new coats meet in front and rarely fasten, except at the waist line, with one button. such an accessory as a gilet is all that is needed. They are built of too many mate- rials to enumerate. Several of them Mouse of Premet, on the Place Ven-[look as if they had come from the b stery department ¥ ap- . dome, put straw on evenMg frocks. ,'f&hf\":,'," o el by Taterior | was prevalent in 1919: _“An Americaa It was colored and used as fringe|jocorators. Simple ones are of | linee must be in” they said as they This house also put chicken feathers. [y (o), colored linen and tricolette. | looked down at the hems of our skirts. Brightly tinted. on skirts as a substi- | yER COOTRC Tl sevt A few are | Last, but not least. of the new sen- tute for feathers and the AmMETICAT [,f prench cretonne. Striped silk after | sat details that interest women buyers called the output “barnyard | . girectoire fashion is chosen with [in Paris are the long slecves cope clothes.” The fashion for straw sained [ grriving effect. from the time of Jumcs 1. They 2 Wlight ‘impetus, but it has rested [SRitE LG S0 fasnioned thdk they |are quits ernumentzl. they cover the quiescent for two years and NOW it | ..ot the coat to be removed; again | hunds ard drov tu the knees. 'rllm‘ io springs_into boisterous life | they are in skeleton form on a net | not flare. They louk like 1 stoven The idea has not spread in Ameri-|¢oyndation, which carries elbow | They give one an umpleasant she ca. So far it is confined to a few eX-| liaves. They are simpler to make |at first, for they seem to explain that tremists. But as Paris is filled with{ {0 N0 s0s and they can he de- |the woman is armless. They look un-| American tourists buying clothes to bring home and professional buyers are returning on every steamer with new ideas, one naturally —expects these straw accessories to start over here in full power. It is best mot to inquire into the endurance of the parasol made of | straw. Maybe it will last; maybe it won't. That's not the question. The problem in the woman's mind this season is what color to choose in a sun shade. No one has ruled out bright red. One of the best of these parasols carried by a French woman is Chinese red trimmed with red oS- trich fringe and a natural wood handle carved in the ancient manner, with the figures tinted red. * K K X ¥ one prefers pastel colors rather than barbaric ones there is a straw parasol of mauve which has a deep border of straw braid run with old thread and above this border a band of violet leaves. The bag, which matches the parasol is of straw in the same color. a bunch of violets flarinz on the front. No one hesi- tates to make these handbogs ex- cessively ornamental. The one that xoes with the straw parasol is deeply fringed with red ostrich flues i and has red ribbon as a_handle. Children_also enter gayly into the fashion. They carry small fat para- sols of bright pink Straw with paint- ed clowns topping the stout handle. ! These clowns are made of wood and | are expertly painted to look lifelike. When the milliners get quite ex- cited over these sets they build a narasol. a_bag, a veil and a pair of kauntlets to match. They do not put straw on the veil or gauntlets, but they edge the former with colored ostrich fringe and the latter with bright colored cuffs laid out in broad checks. One such set is entirely in apple green. Not content with making parasols thle plaything of the hour. the milli- ners, seeing big possibilities in veils, have started in to make them more conspicuous than they are. Ever since they adopted the Arabic idea of cutting veils in wide mea ures and draping them in long lines, these ornamental pieces of lace and chiffon have become an important ac- ssory to a hat. Often they are the better part of it. The small face veil was shelved by women who led fashion several years ago, and only the conservatives use ic in its conventional form. plastered sicross the hat and nose and tightly ned at back of neck. Other wo- men have disregarded the veil as a face protection and tney now indulge in it as ornamental drapery. This fact gives the milliners their chanc The possibiiities in veils are fully carried out. It is a new fashion in France, ‘for instance. to make thej veil and the neckwear in one piece. Boldly designed laée is chosen. which is placed over the hat, drawn down to the neck in the form of a_bird cage, then spread out over the shoul- ders to shape a wide, round collar. 1t is held in place-around the neck A SMALL FRENCH CHILD CAl RIED THIS PARASOL OF BRIGHT PINK STRAW WITH THICK HA DLE ENDING IN A PAINTED CLOWN'S HEAD OF WOOD. THE SMALL BAG WAS OF PINK STRAW WITH A WOODEN FRAME. pended upon to give a more orna- mental effect. i | Smart women who have taken up i ithe fashion for all gray and black, or i white and black, wear under the one- button coat of either gray or black a white gilet fastened with jet but- tons. If the suit is gray, it is piped with black satin. The color scheme is carried out in the shoes and stock {ings, the gauntlets with black em- broidery or cuffs of black leather, the black slippers with gray suede inser- tions and gray silk stockings. * ¥k * ¥ Y the way, another exceedingly tashionable detall in the summer costumes is a silk handkerchief | tucked in the top coat pocket to match the costume or harmonize with }it. When a woman wears a black coat suit of crepe de chine or dull satin the small silk handkerchief, half falling from the pocket is in apple green, Chinese red. directoire by checked ribbon with long ends in front T ribbon is in itself a novel and hionable detail in costumery. Tt is used for girdles, it dangles from the wrist or sleeves, it is put on hats. The smart crepe de chine frocks, as well as those of geargette crepe, carry a band of such ribbon about two|vellow. When gray suits are worn, inches wide, placed around the hips,|these handkerchiefs are jade green tied on one sidel mhfxxllkm long ei:‘a and gray. Jt is checked in ac and_ white, o blue and gold, blue and buft: it is| The trifling fashion has brought striped or plain. But always it is]about a strong demand for the| effective. small. colored silk handkerchief. It This ribbon makes less of a bulk { o070 o eachion. It was the las bout the hips than crepe, meta “ven chiffon. Young women w { necessary touch to the costume the | loosely. placed at the spot where)year before the war in Paris, when their waist liv used to he. It is!ymart women wore the same kind of box coat and narrow skirt that they wear today. | "The Americans who went over | |there that same summer wore full | | skirte, reasonably long and found themselves sharply contrasted with the French women who wore short v i . re is v- | narrow skirts. Exactly the same thing ‘l"me".m,“ ":b"" T'he ke e hat | happened in 1919, except that our skirts elty veil ptated on 2. huge blac were not full, but they reached our lined with pink straw; it forms the |gaitered ankles, while the French skirts crown and simulates the kind of |just covered the knees. _| " This summer the contrast is quite as plumage that hangs over one shoul- |,y Jt is said to be causing the same der. The veil is of lace studded criticism from the French. Their skirts with pink rosebuds, one end shaped :m much lo'nger. ours are nearly to the v nees. to a deep point with a rose at Its{ ™y, fo51isn to say that the American end does not feel at a disadvantage in this The idea has stimulated the dress-|contrast. She was deflant and obstinate makers into building scarfs in imi-|in 1919. She continued to wear her tation of the veii. They are worn |long sheathlike skirts. What will t=heJ for dancing. They substitute the [do this summer? It is well for her to | Spanish shawl which the Paris wom- | remember that she finally gave in to| en wear at smart functions. such as|the French fashion for abbreviated | the ope dinner parties, dances in irts and carried the idea to an ex- | public places and the play. treme. The rival to the shirt waist and If she intends to wear long skirts the overblouse in the shops of Paris [next winter she may well begin now if the gilet. Tt more than a waistcoat. less than a blouse. It is she happens to be going to France. the desirable garment of the season. permitted to take the outline of the | frock: it makes no attempt to con- fine it close to the fisure. EEIE O UT back to veils, for they are more important to the majority of They are getting off the same old | phrase in the street over there which BELOW THE HAND. COURAGED LONG SLEEVES. comfortably like the unfilied sleeves of the soldiers. * k ok * Ol" course, they are uncomfortable. A woman must find the slash in the side in order to get her hand out. Yet those. who weali the sleeves insist that there is no izconvenience connected with them. At best they are the talk of Paris, which means they will soon- be the talk of America. The fashion may be an herolc attempt to introduce with success the long slim sleuve. In «ddition tc_this type of lirg sleeve, Jenny of Paris, who has shown her new autumn collection to tie American manufacturers, again fea- tures the wide Babylonian slccve which she introduced last January. It is 2 square piece of transpareat fab- ric falling from a deep armho'e and reaching the finger tips. k5 It is important to add that sha also introduces a wide choker collar of fur clasped at the neck witn buckles or brass or cut steel in barbaric design. This buckle is repeated by a girdie placed well down on the aipa. it is often of brass or steel set with col- ored stones of glass. ‘The woman who spends her sum- pers in hot suburban towns i1 a rub- T PARASOLS AND BAGS THAT MATCH. THE LOWER IS A PARASOL OPF MAUVE STRAW, TRIMMED WITH BORDER OF VIOLET LEAVES. SHD OUTER EDGE OF PARASOL IS MADE OF STRAW BRAID, RUN WITH GOLD THREAD. BAG TO MATCH IS OF FINE STRAW, WITH BUNCH OF VIORMTE. i ABOVE IS PARASOL AND BAG OF BRIGHT RED STRAW, TRIMMED | [oDic8! climate need not be uried to WITH BRED OSTRICH FRINGE. PARASOL HAS CARVED WO0OD HANDLE. about the antics of the rest: of the THIS IS THE SENSATIONAL GOWN WORN AT THE RACES IN PARIS, WHICH EXPLOITED A JAMES THE FIRST SLEEVE, WHICH HANGS FAR IT IS COPIED IN SEVERAL GOWNS AND EN- world, she wenders why white is not in universal acceptance for the warm season. No one could persuade her ‘o wear a blue serge suit with a dark overblouse on & June day with the thermometer near ninety. Of course she wears white or something akin to it that is cool and transparent and lll‘fid?o- it without disturbing her min . Not 80 the city woman. For her the joys of luxurious and washable ha- biliments during hot weather are un- known. She goes along the line of least extravagance. And just here she is_confronted with the fashion for ‘white. * % ‘woman who works for her Nv- ing—a class that is slowly as- suming the majority becsuse happi- ness for women seems to lie along that path—will not regard the fashion with any perturbation. She will be apt to discard it without argument. But there is a vast multitude of women who really can get a gown pressed or washed at less than the cost of a new frock, and they will delight in the tidings and hasieén to bring thém true. * White coat suits are to be in fash- ien, also heavy white crepe frocks and white capes. Paul Poiret has taken up the fashion once indorsed by Mme. Paquin of placing a short white jacket ABOVE, AT LEFT—UNUSUAL VEIL, WHICH FORMS A COLLAR. IT IS WORN OVER BLACK SATIN HAT AND HELD AROUND NECK WITH BLACK AND WHITE RIBBON, THAP HANGS BELOW WAIST IN FRONT. LACE VEIL, COVERED WITH SMALL PINK ROSEBUDS. IT 18 DRAWN OVER THE CROWN OF A LARGE BLACK HAT LINED WITH PINK STRAW. IT FALLS OVER ONE SHOULDER TO THE WAIST. above a black skirt. Tailored frocks are made of heavy satin used on the wrong side, which is a questionable novelty, but quite effective. White georgette and voile are made into afAh"rnoon frocks. 8 yet there is no movement toward bringing into fashion white shoes and stockings for street wear. Black slip- pers of patent leather with white t‘rnl;n:;mgt!h are k;\‘ern with white vns; the stockings m:l:'lh!alnd color. Lol e latter color has proved a boon to America if one judges by the mass of women who adopt it for every- EAD powder holders are a nov- B elty. They are made like bead bags, only they are the little envelopes made to hold a powdery powder puff or dauber. They are worked in charming patterns, as intricate and colorful as those of bags, and sometimes you can find a powder holder worked .to match a handbag. Always, of course, you can find one in harmonizing colors, and doubtless if you have ever made a bead bag you could qpite easily make a powder holder. A white organdy hat is made with wide folds of the material laid around both crown and brim, with black monkey fur showing as a fringe un- der each white fold. The combina- tion of fabrics and colors is striking. A big black straw hat 'is made with groups of three or four black ostrich In the Fashion Shops C, JUNE 19, 1921—PART 4. | Are Worn With Bare Arms and Over Long Sleeves—Lace Veil Is Drawn Over f Hat and Turngd Intoa Deep Collar by Black and White Ribbon Around the Ncck | | Other Veils of Black Lace Are Studded With Pink Rosebuds—Clown's Head on ' 1 Parasol Handle—Sleéeves That Hang to Knees. Ing into charming frocks. The dots are pink, blue and green. und are particulurly effective ugainst the ecru of the ground color of the swiss. A soft white felt hat has no trim- ming save a scarlet quill muck through two slits in the crown. Rhinestone buttons are used on some of the smartest of the black patent leather strapped pumps. The buttons are small, but glitter bril- liantly. Little fans of ostrich flues are used instead of some of the new eveminz slippers. Sometimes the atches the color of the shpp- sometimes it contrasts with it. color feather on gold s!ippers. worn, with gold stockings and a fame-col- ored gown, is a combination worn not long ago with striking effoct. ‘ecm ground that is capable of msk Little girls’ frocks for seuside wear are made of checked ginghum, with sunbonnets to match. The frock consists of bloomers and. a one-piece:! smock to fold over it, with a fluring hem, sometimes cut in to fit smoothly over the shoulders, sometimes smocked and shirred. Black and white sport shoes are in good style this summer. The blark is usually used at the heel and toes. and is really helpful in keeping the shoes in good coandition, for the black comes at the places which get the most wear. Girdles of braid of different colors, ! sewed together to form stripes. are particularly smart. Each strip of braid ends in tassels of the same | color, so that there is a .fringe of colored tassels at each end of the girdle. Other girdles that one can buy ready made are of ostrich attached to a net foundation. Still others are of beads, colored or white. Strung into heavy ropes and fluished W]lh] heavy tassels. Double hemstitching is used like stripes on a smart new frock of la ender linen. running round and round and round. The hemstitching is worked in heavy white cotton floss, 80 thut there is a little line of white on each side of the openwork formed by the drawn threads. The frock is worn over a white slip petticoat and camisole. Cushion and hat sets are one of the newest things. They match, these! two accessories of outdoor comfort. } One dons, for instance, a hat of, thing, including interior decorations. French womien are wearing taupe stockings reduced to cobweb thick- ness, but thnr started the fashion for colored stockings by wearing tan o that resembled sunburn. Slowly the American woman is tak- ing up the black patent leather pump With one or two straps as a substitute for brown leather, tan or gray suede. Suddenly the smart women seemed to have tired of gray suede and their followers are experimenting with the patent leather low shoe, thereby tak- lni up a fashion that Franec estab- lished three years ago. fiyes sticking out around the crown, each one drawn into the straw and fastened securely. Orange organdy is used M the making of a good many hats that are particularly smart. Sometimes it is only self-trimmed, sometimes it is trimmed with black in a striking manner. Orange, by the way, is often strikingly and smartly used this sum- mer. One lovely overblouse of white organdy {s trimmed with bright orange stitchery. There is an imported dotted swiss made with big disks for dots on an HERE IS A SET CONSISTING OF BAG, VEIL AND GAUNTLETS. THE BAG IS OF BRIGHT GREEN STRAW, THE GREEN VEIL IS EDGED WITH (OSTRICH FRINGE, THE GAUNTLETS HAVE CUFFS OF GREEN AND WHITE KID, —_— woven violet and gray ribbons, and picks up a little cushion of woven violet and gray ribbons, ang goes forth for a comfortable paddle in a canoe. Or one dons a hat of ecru straw embroidered with flowers in oolored silk and goes forth to a shady and comfortable hour on the beach. These sets are really a novelty and very attractive. Shoulder shawls, too, are new. We have been noticing the presence of big Spanish shawls for evening wraps for some time. But the little silk embroidered shoulder shawl, the same country, Is new. It is quite as effective on the right woman as is the bigger shawl. Two calla lilies, one yellow and one white, form the only decoration for a white feit hat of the softest and floppiest variety. It is the personifi- cation of coolness in appearance. A little feather hat is made with two yellow beaded eyes to look like an owl's head. Good Salads for a Good Appetite Do you get tired of the continual reminders that salads areamong our mest wholesome foods, both winter and summer? Perhaps you do. But the fact is so worth reiterating that it is worth talking about even at the danger of becoming wearisome. For salads have all the best qualities of all-the-year food accessories, and in summer espe- cially, when the gardens are full of salad possibilities, and wher the sys- tem craves crispness and coolness, are they worthy our attention. Remember that, if you wish to do 80, you can plan a salad that is prac- tically a meal in {tself. A salad made. for instance, of boiled rice mixed with minced green pepper and pi- mento, served with mayonnaise on lettuce leaves, and dubbed Creole salad, is one of these all-round sorts. And a salad made of potatoes and broiled bacon cut in tiny piece, on lettuce leaves, with mayonnaise or French dressing, is another. Stuffed tomatoes, with a filling of meat or rice, are another. And, of course, if you wish a salad simply for its donation of crispness and coolness to the meal. why there is the salad of lettuce or chicory or endive, dressed with French dressing —cold and crisp and_appetizing, but adding little in bulk and nourish- ment. And there is the fruit salad, made daintily of just & bit of fruit— one segment of solid grapefruit meat on a long, boat-shaped piece of endive dressed with French dressing; or four pitted cherries, big and ripe, or half a ripe peach, or a little diced orange. These are quite appropriate dinner salads, as they are not bulky or filling. If you wish a more hearty fruit salad, of course, it is an easy matter to make one. For instance, there are cherries pitted and stuffed with cream cheese. and there are pears halved and filled with cream cheese. There are salads composed of bananas cut in sizable chunks and mixed with orange and grapefruit or with fresh summer fruits. or with canned pine- apple and maraschino cherries. May- from } 7 onnaise always combincs fruit, and, of. course, it makes \ more substamtial than Freoch dress- ing. Don't get in the habit of thinking thut only lettuce muy be used as 1 alad green. Lndive. chicory, eschrole and watercress. ail in bur local mar- kets ul one time or another, can all be used to advantage. und their use keeps our salad renertoire from get- ting smull enough to produce mo- Totony. Potawo salad isx occasionally licious. It cur. be made in vari ways, One way is in slice tne Lew potatoes. boiled just until dou: thin und to flavor them Zw.on, then to dress tnem v vinegar and 1o werve With mayon- nzise on lettuce. Another wuy is to mix the potatoes. diced, with haif their quentily of diced celery and plenty of mayonnaise. Diced green pepper, about a cup to four cups of diced potatoes, makes another good addition to potato salad. One hard- boiled egg for ecach potato, mixed with French dressing. and served on crisp watercress, gives another good vanety of potuto salad rdine salad cah be temptingly pre- th oil and pared. Get the boned und sKinned fishes, and arra three on euch plate, in a b, crisp, white lettuce leaf Squeeze some hou juice over cach H lettuce lenf at the side of the hix one serve a big spoon of mayonnaise with u stuffed olive on cetbremd salad it made by sim- mering swaethreads that have been soaked in cold water for an hour to which a slice of onion and & buy ieaf have been ndded. 1 hwip an hour throw into cold water to blusch and remove the membrane Chill and cut imto dice. and mix with an cqual cut in small picces. amoumt of celery on lettuce Serve With mayonuaise leay WOMEN in the Public Eye ' . Mrs. Henry C. Wallace s BY MARGARET B. DOWNING. Some years ago, the \vencrable James Wilson, who served longer in a cabinet post than ar othcr man since the executive council of President Wash- {ington took the oath of oflice. proved that his state, Jowa. coined gold at & much more rapid rate by raizing and selling seed corn (han was dug out of the earth {n all the United States. The present Secretary of Agricui- ture, Henry Cantweil Wallace, was a student at the Ames Agricultural Col- lege when James Wilson was presi- dent, and to the friends of both he forms a connecting link of unusual in- terest. Mrs. Walluce, who was Miss Carrie May Brodhead of Muscatine, is unusuaily sympathetic to the early traditions which her husband cher- tshes—a fact plainly inglcated by the name of one of t ns. James Wilson Wallace. But agricu rests in lowa are vasty fforent now from when twenty Miss Brodhead wed the prownsing yOUng writer on wlom Jamies Wlisou placed such high hopes. ~ She is one of the unusual ex- imples of a wife who eould aid on the farm in trying out all those experi- ments on which the Secretary has built so cubstantial a fortune, as well as a considerable fame as an editor who cun write practical advice about things ne has tried himself. For some years past the Wxllaces have been liv- ing in Dés Motnes. where 50 many of the farm fou:rals of the country have located their printeries. Their closest neighbor was another lowan. identi- fied, though for a brief period, with the Department of Agriculture—Edwin Meredith. The Secretary brought to Washin group of children in the present exec- utive set—six—and among them two pretty daughters. who are conspicu- ous in social affairs, and two sons who can help the depleted ranks at dancing parties. There is also a mar- ried daughter and a circle of littie ones, which makes a point of contact with every division of ofticial life. Mrs. Wallace is essentially of the home-keeping type aud lher advent a splendid augury for the gentler pa of her husband’s duties. Des Moines has a place all by itself as 4 hospilu- ble center, and what would seem a vast crowd in the usual smaller city does not cause a flutter to experienced hostesses there. Mrs. Wallace was prominent ir the clubs, especially in the country club. which is well or- ganized to satisfy the tastes of the more elderly members, as well as the younger elemént. The Secretary is wedded to golf, and few afternoons found him away from the links. Mrs. Wallace, however, rarely joined in that, but sometimes played a game of tennis and confesses to a partiality for the leisurely and sedate game of croquet, Mrs. Wallace likes to read and to travel, and since coming tc Washing- ton she has been fascinated by the mingling of many people and the ab- sorbing occupation involved in en- deavoring to remember names and fit them to the proper fa She has en- joyed excellent opportunities to fry out her knowledge in the four garden parties given by Mrs. Harding and which she and her daughters found a delightful portent of what is in store when the official season opens form- ally next December. The Secretary and Mrs. Wallace are Presbyterians and have affillated with the Church of the Covenant, which their venera- ble friend, James Wilson, also at- tended. and Mrs. Wallace ton the largest Your Outing Wardrobe. Sometimes it is wise to carry just as many wash frocks and as many pleces of underwear as possible when you go away on a summer outing. Again it is wise to carry only a very few. This all depends on whether it is difficult and .expensive to have laundry work dome where you are If it is, then it would prob- be cheaper to carry another trunk, to hold a goodly supply of underclothes and wash frocks. It may not be to vour taste to carry home a trunkful of soiled clothes, but it is usually economical. Travelers to Europe have for many- years made & practice of <aving up worn-out underthings until they sail- ed, wearing each g.rment once—for the last time—and then throwing it away. Thus the traveler lightens his bagzgre as time goen on, leaving_room for the purrhases he will make in his travels and. Uncidentally, eliminating the necessity for drmz Azt lanp- dry or waiting for its rat» In your wardrobe for summer there should always be an attractive frock of crepe de chine or other silk, pref- erably of dark color—something that you can be sure of and can fall back on when the organdies have all be- come mussed, and lighter clothes have become scled. You always think that it will be 80 easy to press your own frocks with a little fron. But in your busy days wou 4o not take time and you may be cangw. with nothing to wear uniess you take some substantial, serviceable frock that looks well anyway. An evening frock of black or brown lace or net is also a geod emergency addition to your summer wardrobe. This is not the type of evening frock you would select for summer evenings, but it is sure to look presentable -and needs only & little attention to make it look fresh. Often all that it needs by way of pressing after it has been |ncmr_ trunk is ta be hung up in a et | gotns. ably u; let the wrinkies Dang out.