Evening Star Newspaper, May 8, 1921, Page 69

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C MAY 8§, 1921—PART 4 he Habiliments of Grief for ' THE Idea of Wearing Dead Black Has Been Taken Up to a Certain Extent in This Country. But Few Women Can Wear the Color With Success, No Matter What the Inclination. | Fashion Was Invented From Motive of Economy——The Qucstmn of Frmgc—Sllght Variety 1n | Black Fabrics—Ribbon Indorsed by Dressmakers—Gray Runs Second to Black. BY ANMVE RITTEVHOUSE. H‘;dlré:-zl‘:l;‘\‘:“-.‘u|,l\ a red hat that r.u-: erge 1“.:“””{\\'. in “‘“:Yufc—;vx'; fc:‘ld VHOSE who dislike fringe use rib- T us take up this odd and 1= yrown in it pu oF ‘&tas ors instead of black bon. The French hiave shown us st exciting subject of wear-! On these biack gowns that Amer-' In 1 Llack straw is used as a the way to do it with success. Dull m & leu has taken to her foundation for wi > e asal i or all the|ci aken to her heart there is foundat io! hatev wishes gk ribbos ith a picot edge is cho- ing dead black for @l (A% fringe: that astonishes il those who | to Dul upon it but if o 5 the| TsEiubon iy ll iy hours of one's life in PUbLHCfaiougnt that tiis accessory was fin- |new type of woolen or soft sen. Loops of it lap each othe "1t has grown bevond a fad: it has be-fished a whote s n o. he con- | felt adgear, again black is taboo. c¢lose profusion These loops run in L et fasiion of the [Servative dressmakers advise asainst | The fabrics' chosen fo: ‘the street straight lines up a szt Bet | : bt [t they have prophesied riahtiy, that | frocks of black are the various ing more than five or six inc spring. One might say of it STV e Cheapest kind of ready-to-wear weaves of crepe: Canton, Morocco, ginning and ending abruptly Lauder s of drinking: ®|clothes would swinz with (ringe. Chin or the evening gowns the are spaced about their length apart habit: it's a gift.” Some shops have cleared out the fashion calls for tulle bLlack lace Such loops trim the edges of | Many R elined. but few are)[TOCKE that were trimmed with it.[thin crepe, cirs satin or satin used sometimes running up the back to the Many are inclin i but many orders came in from women on the wrong side to avoid luster. shoulder. chosen to wear black wilh SUCCess{who are determined fo wear ‘1. or In other U, with_con 11 is well to put tulle next to the [Plpee Wt fuct does not [Who do not yet realize that it iy the consisting fashion cither skin whenever siiver lace or any Hi annineg full UILItspe of thing most run to the duliness or zives an artificial | other kind of metal is profusely used ) ehion. Tiere | ground by overpopularity ey 1o Lluck Gabrics. Which- lin & gown. The skin cannot stand e Nen may eall it foolish- | “let us have our chuhes at i1 ever way one chooscs. there s no he eoarsc strands of ‘buliion without but it is a foolishness that hey say. And they take it midaie ground losing In teature and fragility et i anid ot only of women| The Irench women have ! i but of men, siiee pre-historic days. | through in odd phases in « | = , SR = = om L Drobabie that the Neander- [since the war that is uniike them | [ihal mien deft their caves in tiger | They have insisted upon a standard- . . 4 Sl Te dinson mnd sternty refused|ized” costume. for instance. and they ' | o W fashion dressed alike by thousane | ! Lrious Trici of eritics tolthe very thing to wiich | PR SO B ] - L v humans by what should be OF jshown §(rong Gpposi = B b What iacihoen ithe standurai Y housewife has rather em- | putting things away for the sum- aitimate power of thelllack frock withant phatic idcas as to the proper | mer shat will kcep them free from | i el AR e et Py : b 10, NGRS maths without the inconvenience of ties, $o if @ world of women ered with slender jeweled b Wway to put cloties away 0fmoti-balls or cedar. This consisis of | lew 80 1 X oieck: apd biack with: |jote: the hat black, the shape keep them from the moths. | taking the clothes when yvou ure sure Sur Tuster us thougli the human race jamall twrban or ofic with clunguted |Sometimes the housewife follows i that lio mollie Rave Ba "y‘r'”‘:’f’l“h':""} Bl ning for some catac ;) es with ong rantasic of SOMe | (lese ideas and s it Abeaat 3 as BH, *IPIR - s O o Tet s accept the [kind of plumage Swaoning down over o o°¢ ldeas und somctimes she ddesn’t fand brashing them to make doubly | ot and discuss the method wnd the{one shoulder. {get (o it Sometimes the moths stay |certain, having them cleaned before | fagl e e " laway—and sometimes they don’t S Caimed the Freneh in- Sloevem ‘i One good wld Englishwoman says | vented the fashion througi motives| L sleeves I | = el o ceonomy and not (HrouEh Teasons with the spring, hes skirt s that the best. and only, infallible way e by “ihevadeclds Teraropned w tittie, the Sirdic has 10 Keep out the expensive pests is to e O e The kind of | become @ most compiicated sash and | souk clothes in kerosene oil. Then " the i ¢ 4y L1t doesn’t make uny difference where ame that was least strident:. one h one-time shirts are accentuated tume R i the : {1ou put the clothes or what you do which would serve throughout il the lac e sides. nos by bulges.| with Liem. she beamingly explians duy of the week and all the hours 001y, e gy or handkerchict|in her bracing English accent. It is the day witoul suggesting St i nesor |80 extraordingrily simple, isn't it? critivism T hi s The odd thing about it is that PR {parnite there mail of thethough this Englishwoman has told . ) | popularity of t ind of costume inidear knows how many people about ASHERE may have grown up a kind d no wny peoj I HERE may have grow ) b4 America and of its heing held up as!this method of kecping moths away,| of coquetry in it. The Frenci| the thing™ fo wear. wo wre too un-|they won't try it. Well, then, all she | look woll in black, Any woman docs | Nieldy a mass (v prescnl a solid front| s o say is that they deserve io oy 2 v i in one cxac type . and hit. | have moths their clothes. It you who possesses # pallid. healthy skin, : } by R I o > who pos 4 pall S en {Sufficient numbers ak awayreally want to keep them out, why {expressive dark eyes and a slenderifrom the most 4l fusnion to|not do it? And kerosene—coal oil, of | fizure. Any woman who knaws thelgive variely which isthe spice of [course siie ‘calls it—is not at ail cx- o N = Wt ) dressing IVEry woman may possess ' pensive ¢ of make-up—and would that all may {prasive 0 e thae i1 1] O e biack costume in e ward-| "Phe trouble with moths secms to the America . mow tliat | robe. but she wiil not kecp to it as al that th generally dislike the| universal el bhe cap, uge steady dicl. She will incorporatciodors we dislike. Whalever we have; l\l’nln) »A “[.unll tion for the rost of ::‘l‘.;’(“l Illnlnr"ll\‘ lul\ ]ll\r I-n]nrul u.l\u commended to us to keep them out Hp ¢ atio he 10 5. no 3 hat e lis the kin, ¥ F e Do K potarance: 1f she:as fine mearis | LomOR T O e e | e kI o e e el tas ppearanee: if. done in u mas P i |eertainiy not select as individual sa-| much 3 - for the B « ichets. Tar and camphor and even| it biack the color for the |® o will all women ucer - [Gedar Yeaves B pungent almost suffo- artist, not tor tl amateur. Vome dict for b K withour i } 4 s v i artier, mot for S amateor. Womer [amt sar bya , lcating odor that makes people wish Phave “been mistaken UBrough e |will wear jel. for » the|to send their cloths to cold storage itues | seaargio iy Surnjns foatin that is lacqy atin, it|for the season when they can afford Those who have been in MOUFRING iy called. and whife touches will en It is said th “people hav, Know its devastating habit of d : 3 is said that some people have O O o atibm Jona. NaE [L oy ghe suicface or colared crystal upon the idea of sending their stroying whatever I will shine out on evening zowns furs to the pawnshops for the sum- the ease in rut now are aware, also, of Iwhich one gets info through wearing bla they the cternal vigilance required. KEcon- omy in materials is impassible. The Whiskbroom must be one's constant companion. One must dress in a piercing light. The least discrel aney in the costume is plainly vis ble for criticism. These are facts that must be borne in_mind those who are bent on following the new fashion. That we may be in danger of appearing like a procession of mutes at an ancient funeral is beside the question. - The thing is done. { The sallow woman must learn 2o put color touches where they will do the most good. the brilliant woman | must learn to tone herself down in order not to present too violent a cot- trast to her cestumery. : The question among the dressmak- ers is. what will the Americans d With these all-black eosfumes?. Wh: will they demand to go with them? Will they usk for colored hats as the scason advances because the dead- The: careless a THE TIGH AR T-POINT ALL THE HIGH WHITE ORGANDY (OLLAR AND THE OUTSTANDING LONG SKIRT FEATURES OF THIS OCK BY POIRET. D BODICE | RESTING | = ness of the gowns depresses them, will they soon tire of a fashion that i not suited to the majority of them, or will they learn to master it they have so many other Paris fash- ions that were unfitted to our figures, climate and activities? I was in Paris when the madness for bl costumes hroke out It is still running at fever heat. The mil- liners think there is a chance of breaking it by the introduction of gayly colored hats, but there definite result yet| Just after the larmistice there ‘was an epidemic of |gruy and black pin-striped suits of flannel. shapeless things, like bags carelessly tied in the middle | these went a mushroom felt hat with !4 wreath of colored small fruit. Any one would thought the costume | had been prescribed by the govern- ment: that it was another war meas- ure Ik rationing of food, hot water because of its uni- versal acceptanc * % k¥ UDDENLY this costume gave way to a chemise frock of dead black with fringe and a string of pearls. It spread over Paris. It With ¢ [black tulle and satin mantle is no | A gown which is built with « silver brocade trousercd skirt has a tight fitting black Ivet bodice, biack slippers with silver stockings and a That's mer, the to pay thus deriving a little capital for ummer months and not having much more in addiition than the cost of cold storage. But that. like the Englishwoman's coal-oil method. would not recommend itself |to many persons. Of late years cedar chests and cedar clogets have come into the lime- light as moth annihilators. This is doubtless due to the fact that of all the odors that are said to be repul- sive to moths cedar is the least ob- jectionable. The housewife of today in drawing up plans for the house she wants some day to build is pretty sure to include in it a cedar closet or two. Perhaps she imagines that they will put an end to all the usual fuss and anxiety about putting clothes away for the summer. Now there is in reality a method of a new treatment of black. Another gown of black efre satin worn in the afternoon has extra long sleeves and an irregular skirt with all the edges finished with perforated white kid. Surely that is a startling and unusual combination. white kid and black satin. but it is succewsful There are perforated white kid hats. aiso, with upright strands of black lacquered ribhon. which go to| show that the designers are not donc with kid as an ac ory 1o the cos- tume, although the public has shown siight enthusiasm for it, There is comfort in the fact that the black frocks are of thin fabrics. packing and then packing in such & way that no moths, no matier how small, can penetrate. It is extreme- 1y important that the clothes should Le put away clean. If they necd to be cieaned have it done now instead of waiting until next autumn. And then put them away at once. Never use & box or bag or ather container in has held the city in its grip for over two years. American buyers did not even ask for these black costumes of the de- signers when they bought the semi- annual assortment of clothes for this country after the peace conference ended.” Why the hesitation no one knows; possibly they thought Amer- jcans would not accept the fashion. Therefore there came about two sets { of costumes in high fashion: our ycolored ones and the French black anes. At last there is only one fash- ion | The question is: Will America for- i sake black if she finds that Paris is rowing tired of {t? There is no i4Zubt that Parisians are going in ! quite strongly for a primitive red and 1t 1s having its innings here. Tt is surely the most violent contrast to black that could be accepted. takes a daringly successful woman to combine a frock of lustreless black BLACK CIRE SATIN IS 1S MARING 0; 15 TRIMMED WITH BANDS OF WHITE P THIS GOWN, WHICH ‘RIORATED KID. It | ;MGHT-FITTING BLACK VELVET BODICE. WITH IT IS WORN A BLACK which you have had clothes moth- eaten before. This would be like put- ting new wine in old bottles. The tar bags that can be bought at department stores, or other stores, are very convenient and answer the purpose in supplying a container that can be closed without a crevice. Though the tar odor would not insure clothes against moths that already contained their eggs, it probably is decidedly objectionable to any moths that happen to be flying about in the vicinity. A perfectly odorless suit box will answer the purpose, however, Make sure that the clothes are free from Fold them and then crevices cover at once, sealing th with strips of pasted paper. Newspaper _is said to be distasteful to moths. If you choose you may wrap the boxes in newspapers after you have sealed them. ‘Tar bags have au advantage when GOWNS OF DULL SILVER BROCADE, WITH TROUSER SKIRT AND VELVET CAPE LINED WITH SILVER, ' - Hours of Pleasure SILVER LACE FROCK, TRIMMED WITH GRAY TULLE AT EACH SIDR. they are so constructed that clothes be hung up within them, for then they do not come oyt @ mass of wrinkles in the autumn. | Sometimes the trauble all comes | with clathes that are part of the | warm weather wardrobe—things that | you do not put away but keep on { hand for ceoler weather in summer. Now, as & matter of fact, clothes that are waorn often and frequently mave about and brought into the air an sunlight, are practically immune from the ravages of moths. For moths like quiet and darkness. Byt sometimes & sult, frock or wrap that you keep out for ‘the summer is not wern for sev- ergl weeks. And when you take it out the deadly work has been done. Often the troubles comes frem the fact that the cleset in which it was hung has already been infested with An excellent plan if you are not sure of the freedom of your clothes clos: i have it s tr be destroved. this (s te have all the cracks and crevices sprayed with benzine. Hew. ever, this is a dangerous procedure, If you spray It thoroyghly the closet rerks with the gas of the bensine. Not until the atmasphere has cle. should @ match be struck ar any flame be carried near that cleset, It yoy do take this preeaytion sgainst moths in vour closet. make a point to stand guard over the closet until it is pretty well aired out after the process. Do not run the risk of ha: ing some one come along with a lighted match. ‘ Blue Serge Frocks, v—l Do vou remember the seasons when the first choice of a suit er frock was blue serge? Women went to it as unhesitatingly as horses go to water. Its instant puyrchase caused ne perturbatien in their minds, They didn't go home and spend the evenm- ing asking ever: and flll‘; of it i one in the family they had been un- a trick of every weman you know. The world Is ce: that's vh}' few individusls are serene in their judgment. Blue serge was stapdardized onc The world accepted it without cav Women appeared in it when th crecus came. But new—well, there a different stery to tell. One pass by the fabric, ng. ‘It's rather o?:i. don't you think?" Possibly ~ the dressmakers grew tired of that vocal repetition, for. they brousht blue serge into t Jimelight. Once & man named Bul did the same thing. He is a Parislan designer, 8o he put fat red roses on a blue serge skirt and t frightened people; they thought he was too revolutionary. t roses are as nething te the n treatment of this common- mo\ place fabric. Gold and silver are thrown at it. Lace accompanies it to parties. Lattice work of brilliants sparkles over the dull surface. Rosettes of metal ribbon brighten it. It is costly. It is fashionable tor a frock for a formal occasion. Some one intimates that it would not shock us to see it at an evening_dance. The sketch today will give an idea how luxurious blue serge has - come at a time when we thought it had gone into the shadow. The skirt is fashionably full and held into place at the hips with a curious hip belt of silver lace, the coa kind; it is tied at the walst line with s spotted silver ribbon with blue flowers stamped on it. The bodice is_simple until it gets te the J.kl which is o made_of silver lace with short siceves. This trest- ment puts the dark gown in in i the gown 0 15708 Givkobiue stsw, Wi & Suver |erown, and wide silver ribbon bow |across the front. 1t the economist is searching for | ways in which to use up the ma- | terial she possesses, this new method of employing serge, treating it with an unheard of respect, may Sugest to her the turning of a one-piece frock of the fabric into an ornate frock that will serve for the after- neon. It is a topsy-turvy way to build up one's pleases fashio: Embroidery and galloon, lace and flowers can be put on the material, short sleeves ean be u GOWN OF NLUE SERGE WORN AT AFTERNOON CARD PARYY. I7 HAS RIF YOKE AND NECK YOKN OF COARSE SILVER LACE, GIR- DLE OF SILVER RIBBON. ROW OF IT PLACED ACROSS FRONT OF BLUE STRAW RAT. g2y beit and beige stock and black slippers, and one is dressed up for the oecasion. The idea of eprinkling J blue serge is mot new and t! server thought the dressmakers were done with the fashion, but it seems to ] m as a cat. t therefore, the woman who likes t| use of bright jet and always fee that gives a festive touch to costume can furbish up an old serge in_this maaner. fashion ef putting & brightly ored ““(.énn’.‘:. !.r'eel ot.m wss one rst symptom Rl i T ts welbems, it apmb a— .