Evening Star Newspaper, February 13, 1921, Page 41

R R R R R R R R R ] M. Pasterna The Commectiout Avenue Shop .. 1209 Connecticut Avenue N.W. Evening Modes for the College Girl Y This Dance Dress is made of chiffon over jade green taffeta. The overskirt is in bouffant effect, with taffeta motifs in dainty. pastel shades. Delightfully Different Always Moderate in Price == I — X E X X E X E X R A X XX R E X T The Secret of Wholesome Appearance Committee oa Public Jume 10, 1920. —is in the proper care of the skin and the hair. This fsn’t vanity—but a duty we all owe to ourselves. —Mrs. Coon’s Prescriptions are scientifically compound- ed to give the skin, the muscles and the scalp the nourishment needed to make them healthy. Be- cause if they are healthy— one’s personal appearance will be wholesome. For Sale in Leading Drug and Department Stores Ask for Mrs. N.C. Coon’s Prescriptions. Almoud Skin Feod Musdle Cream $1.00 Each L * The Only Store in Washington Where You Con Buy Miss Manhattan Coats and Suits One’s Fancy— SUITS IN THE SMARTEST TAIL- LEUR MODES — THE LOVELIEST AND MOST BECOMING CREATIONS ONE COULD FANCY—ARE TO BE FOUND IN THIS SHOP AT PRICES OF AMAZING REASONABLENESS. YOUTHFULNESS 1S THEIR KEY- NOTE — SPECIALIZED DESIGNS FROM MISS MANHATTAN THAT ARE VASTLY BECOMING TO ALL TYPES OF YOUTHFUL FIGURES. Suits $35 to $95 A ‘l‘fffff“ffff‘l‘ffl“l“fffi"l“!\‘f“#‘l“‘r"l‘i‘f Ed THE SUNDXY STAR, WASHINGTON, U. U, FEBRUARY 13, T92—PART 2 2 : 11 STYLES OF TWO NAPOLEONS CONFLICT, AS THEY ARE FULL OF VIVID CONTRASTS Anne Rittenhouse Says Fashions of the Two Eras Will Not Mix —The Direc- toire and Second Empire — The New Uneven Hem and the Argument Over Sleeves . BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. HERE are places on this conti- nent where the sun is already warm and the leaves begin to show life. There the fashions for the approaching months flit fnto view. There are launched the things that will Soon engross the interest of the peoples who continue to abide where the snow melts slowly. There are watched the clothes a mass of women will soon begin to adopt. No one can put the finger on any AT LEFT: A § FROCK, THE FABRIC IS YELLOW TUSSOR, INFLUENCE. AT RIGHT: A NEW one certain style and say of it that success lies there. But one can report the jumble of ideas and full-fledged inspirations that are worked out in !a.brl?_ : Curiously enough, there is a jumble of the periods of the two Namj)loons. |and there is further confusion, it would seem, in the minds of those who speak casually of directoire and second em- pire. Surely, the two are far enough apart to keep the mind clear of any confusion. Possibly the fact that a Napoleon was mixed up with both dress movements causes this twisting of the two eras on faghion. They are full of vivid contrast, these fashjons, as much 80 as were the two Bena- partes. * ¥ % % The directolre clothes were high- waisted, glim of skirt, negligent of bodice in the evening gowns and high How Blouses Are Trimmed. The newest blouses are elaborately trimmed and embroidered. Heavily tinseled, inset with jewels and lavish- Iy beaded in -bugles set in close all- over designs, these blouses are made both long and short. The longest models reach almost to the knees. Rust colored crepe in a soft tone forms a good background for em- broidery of dull purple, and blue and gold are combined with black bugles. In rust colored crepe a short tie: blouse is embroidered im white silk, and is further ornamented with jewels of ruby color, a heayy antiqge gold gimp trimmi, ' being used to simulate & eetting for them as well as making a neek fnish. Imitation sapphires stud circl heavy silver tinsel thread, which is applied in a loose darning stitch on a black blouse, which is also of short cut, and another of the waist line length black blouses has a design in green and gold trimming. Crystal bugles in gold color are|j effective in combination with milk bugles on & leng pale gray blouse, which has a border design closely patterned, and a similar band treat- ment is introduced at the shoulder, this forming also a large portion of the sleeve. A dark blue taffeta silk panel on a tan crere bloyse gradually grows wider as it runs from neck to below the waist line, and is tucked in fine horizontal rows inset at intervals ‘with val lace: it is girdled with dark & Tibbon, ‘ of | by of collar and long of sleeve in the day frocks. They -were -utterly free of frivolous touches. The evening clothes were founded en Grecian lines, but made more ?WUVB. The day clothes were founded on the mascu- line garb of the Unbelievables who wore trousers ta the ankles and spiked coats with enormously frilled shirts and high-érowned hats. ‘The the Nt n e clothes, of secot 'm nch history, a4 in the second empire period, & half century later in ;:'l were frivolous, hooped of skirt, low in the neck, sashedl at the normal waist line, with hats wide of brim and low in the crown. An infinite difference. It is the Americans who attempt to bring in the fashions of the directoire when the first Bonaparte was only be- ginning his power, apd the French who attempt to bring in a revival of the second empire fashions which were at their height near the end of the French downfall before Sedan. The difference is 80 acute that one won- ders how the bridge will be fashioned that will connect the two. There is a glimpse at each era in the new clothes that are attracting the attention of ‘women. Here are some of the conflieting features: Taffete is a prime favorite and crepe de chipe has its host pf fel- lowers. Plaid is universal, - ~ 8ol colors runmning at’ its eide. The co- carde at the belt and on the hat, made of ribbon, is a rival to the garland of colored flowers drifting from the hip| h or the shoulder. The long skirt is not ashamed to make its appearance by the side of one cut to the gaiter top. The: even- g ekirt, which s long enough to p about the ankles and is drawn in with 2 hobbled effect in the eastern manner, goes comfortably in the so- ciety of the second empire skirt built of flounces or the Spanish skirt dis- tended at the hips. The tight wrinkled Spanish bodice WHICH SLIPS ON THE FIGURE WITH! ‘WITH A PANBL OF HAND-BLOCKED SILK. SORT OF SMOCK, MADE OF CHARTRE extending to the hips fits the figure without marking the waist line, but if does pot dim the glory of the fitted bodice of the second empire that ends near the pormal waist line gnd is cut into a deep oval decolletage. The slim redingote drops over a slimmer skirt with scalloped hem in a combination of grass green and black, unmarked at the waist if one wishes or held in I]:ly a scanty sash at the exact waist ne. Short puffed sleeves with lace ruf- fles cover part of the arm in taffeta evening frocks, and long tight sleeves of the directoire reach to the wrist in a plain day gown. s Printed rics are rampant and those who are fearful of putting upon their bodies entire gowns of sprawling figurations show their knowledge of the prevalence of a certain fashion by bordering garments with printed ma- Household Towels. 1t is hardly possible to have too lib- eral a supply of towels for general} use. Sometimes it taxes the house- keeper to keep a full supply on hand, as they have such a way of wearing out and disappearing, but there are economies in towels, as well as in! other things. | Do not buy fringed towels. Fringe does not add anything except to the cost. For general household ui crash and huckaback by the plece is a good investment. When hemming fine } towels by hand, a small, even hem can | be obtainad first by ruaning the edge | of the towel to be hemmed through the smxllest hemmer of the machine without being threaded. Prass the hem ! ack and overcast, placing stitches close. This is more rapid than the! old way and saves pricking the fin- gers. . Initisling on towels is both orna- mental and usefu]. en working, the material should be stretched either n a hoop or basted over stiff paper, so that the stitches can be placed with 'perfect uniformity. Ore who learns to work on a hoop with both hands, sending the needle up and down, will be repald by the ease which she will acquire. It is impossible to do good work with the covering stitches un- less the under filling is caréfully done. This pgheuld be casried lengthwise of a form or with its direction., Place an equal quantity of cotton over the sur- face and keep all well within the out- line.. The overwark or embroidery proper -sho be.made to cover the » terials, using them as linings or fac- ings or sashes. = x * ¥ % French frocks are again of figured foulard, and although American wom- en are not enthusiastic over the fab- ric, they take up the printed chiffon and hand-blocked crepes. taffetag are havii a g00od swing upward into power. nf‘ix- ured ribbons are attached to many SII‘P:U‘GBI. rla‘l th s surprising to many that the revival of the hooped hip line should really find many followers. One thought that the fashion had too re- cently died to be resurrected with any degree of success. Women were weary of it when it was offered last season and said they would have none of it. ow they must be in a mood to aceept it, for one sees frocks fashioned in this manner worn by the classes and masses. It is not a general fashion, mind you, not enough worn to make the flat hips appear old-fashioned, but there is quite sufficient evidence of its popularity. to let one predict for it a moderate revival. The French will ac- centuate it during the spring. It seems that a sharp line of differ- ence is drawn between the silhouette for day and evening in this feature as well a8 seweral others. The circular skirt and the floun:g one with.the material sli ered over the hips are constantly offered for the day clothes, The Spanish pleating and ooping &t the hips is put forward for the evening. Which will vanquish the other? Or will they find there is glory enough for both? Here is one feature of prevailing fashions that puzzies the expert as well as the layman. The French idea of severity has arrived in this country, expressing itself in crepe de chine gowns without other fabric allied in the making, and consisting of points, as Vionnet sponsors, and of ceaseless loops, as Cheruit sponsors. But the OUT FASTENING, AND TIES ON. IT SHOWS A STRONG CHINESE SE CREPE, ] , EMBROIDERED IN French are giving up this style ana becoming more ornate. Will we go through a period of sim- plicity, short-lived, to spring into the ornateness of the new French frocks later in the season? The gccent of the directoire will bring a new kind of severity into first fashion. It will bring, also, a demand for black and white as a counter movement to rich oriental colors. One sheuld give to the irregular hem the tribute due. It is not an ac- cident, this.elongation of the back of the skirt. What was once the dis- grace of a dressmaker has become a chief fashion, a8 a French paper puts it. % x ¥ These crooked skirts were first ex- ploited . on the . They have crossed the footlight. When you first width of the letters from side to side, entirely without shading and with perfect regularity. A little practice "UJ enable one to do initialing evenly, and this, together with fine hemming and hemstitehing, will give everyday towels dainty touch. — New Orieans is making elaborate Preparations for the entertainment of the National Federation of Business and Professional Women's Clubs, which is to meet in that city during Mardi Gras week. . $2.00 A BOTTLE. AT YOUR DRUGGIST'S OR'PHOND FRANKLIN 3074 AND I WILL BB VERED glimpse one you feel it is imperative to beckon to the wearer and whisper that her skirt is unfastened. She smiles and explains or looks slightly cold and contemptuous. Do you know 80 little of the first fashion? she seems to 3 fl‘sltey linings of thess new skirts are purposely quite brilliant and arrest- ing. They mean to catch the atten- tion, which is well, as fully a half yard shows at the back. Sometimes the front is also lengthened and the sides are left several inches shorter. Maybe we will like it after a while and grow enthusiastic. At this hour it seems to be gross carelessness and an attempt at disorder to wear a skirt that rises seven inches off the ground in front and touches it at back. When a designer does a thing in a heroic fashion such as this, it is a means to an end, usually. It brings the attention of the public to the fact that hems are not to be evenly meas- ured in the old way. Do what you please with it, is the verdict. Scailop it, if you wish, and many do, or point it, and many do, or pull it hither and yon. But if you treasure your emart- ness, don’t measure it in an even cirele. Another thing puzzles us: What are we to believe about sleeves? The French say “long sleeves or none.” The Americans say “any kind of sleeve or none.” ‘The best way to work oneself out of this trap is to adopt wrist-length sleeves for the day hours, even in expensive afternoon frocks, and look upon the double shoulder straps and short puffed sleeves for evening hours. The long Spanish sleeve which was incorporated into such a variety of garments during the winter is retain- ed in the new gowns, but it has a long Elizabethan undersleeve, one of the earliest fashions in cold countries, or it has a wide or ornamental wrist strap that holds its hem closely against the arms. This trick con- tributes to grace. * % ¥ % The elbow sleeve has had its day, although it continues to appear. The tight bathing suit sleeve belongs to a day that is done. The full oriental swathings of the arm will be retained by individualists, but they are not to be placed in the forefront of fashion. The woman who likes a long sleeve, fitting the arm and extending over the hand, can give her preference full sway. It is her day. It is too early to say what will be- come of the effort to reinstate high collars. We may adopt a compromise, If we follow the directoire, we are in for a period of discomfort caused by our neck wrappings. If we follow the second empire, we can go on cutting the decolette to the collarbone, if no lower. Strange it is that the placement of the waist line does not affect these de- tails regarding the sleeves, the collar, the hem. This much seems certain, however, in the new movements of fashion, that the tight hip sash with the sagging oriental blouse above is soon to fade over the horizon. The slim bodice will win, It may end at the waist line proper, or it may run down to the hips. Its acceptance will sound the doom of the kimono sleeve. To Clean Portieres. Brush the portieres free from dust and place them in a tub with enough gasoline to cover them. Add a table- spoonful of turpentine, which will prevent the colors from running and also brighten dull colors. Cover the nd allow _them to soak for half Non-ELecTRIC X i~ Ladies" Straw Hats ! il R Lol A o e Speeialising in Dyeing, Cleaning and Pressing ladies’ and gentie- men’s gayments. All Work Guaranteed Kcmfi:s Hat Factory, HUDSON SEAL COATS REDUCED TO $295 French Seal Coats, Marmot Coats, Muffs, Scarfs, Choleers, now selling af practicafly cost. Advanced Spring Models SUITS—DRESSES You will fall in fove with i ic, dainty popular this spring. Very moderately priced 1215G St. N.W, ARCADE MARKET 14th St. and Park Road White Clean Sanitary 45 Live, Up-to-Date Dealers, 3 Big Chain Stores, Promoting Real Competition A MODERN MARKET With the Convenience - of a MODERN STORE TAM. to 6 PM. Saturdays Open Until 8 P.M. a day. Drain off the gasoline and put the portieres through a second tub of gasoline, if necessary. Strain the first gasoline and it may be used in the second tub. If portieres are wash- able, use tepid water, a little borax and white soap. Hang them double on the line and press later with a warm iron. It is better. however, to clean rep, brocades and silks in gaso- 1i But do such work outdoo: FURS —at prices that are bound to move them. We must convert our large stock into cash, so.we have made the prices very low, to speed things up. Model Fur Shop I. ROSENDORF (Prop.) 923 G St. N.W. First-Class Dressmaker: Rest Experience. « Newly Established at 1824 15th St. NW. ~ ° Apartment 6 Beauty Prices DROP The Carolyn Beauty Shop 607 15th St. N.W. Opposite a5 Main Curl Given Free With Each Shampoo Switches, first quality wavy.... hair ... 1.00 H. ZIRKIN*"* 821 14th Street N.W. Cloaks Announce the Spring Opening of Their Ladses’ Tasloring Dept., Under the Management of Mr. A. o Bode who has just returned with an unusual selection | of models. Original styles from the foremost I { creators-of New York and Paris will be shown. § Copies of these models will range in prices from $85.00 to $150.00 _ A special offer of New Spring Tweed Susts : to order, $75.00. Hand tailored. We also carry a select number of ready-to- wear suits at reasonable prices. W diately. And that’s just.what my Muscle-Strapping Treatments When you leave my salon with your tingling with vivacity, tired lines gone, eyes alight as they haven’t been for ever so long—why, you're all ready to charm and be charmed and act the fascinating new per- are for, son that you are! Come in some day this week and let me plan a course Then when spring really does come tripping over the hills, you will be able to greet her with a face as fresh as her own. ELIZABETH ARDEN SALON D'ORO of treatments for you. E'RE at the fag end Spring seems hopelessly far away, and you wonder how you can possibly hold ‘opt till then unless you have something to freshen ybu up and reawaken your interest in life-imme- VENETIAN TOILET PREPARATIONS of winter, when e face all Y Y Sy 1147 Conneeticut Avenue, Washington Main Salon, 673 Fifth Ave, New York Boston . Palm Beach Detroit Newport San Francisco Paris, France Extraordinary 10 SELECTIONS FREE || All the latest son dance records on and here Pawce Levy s G | DIVISION OF AMERICAN HOME FURN(SHERS CORP. 735 7th STREET N.W.