Evening Star Newspaper, January 9, 1921, Page 61

THE SUNDAY STAR, JANUARY 9, 1921—PART 4 ALL PARIS REJOICES, BECAUSE A FRENCH «VICE PRESIDENT MARSHALL ADVOCATES ABOLITION OF NATIONAL CONVENTIONS BY DONALD McGREGOR. HOMAS RILEY MARSHALL has been Vice Rresident of the United States for almost eight years—through a period equal- 1y as vital, it not more so, than at any other of similar length in Ameri- can history. Thaev have been eight crowded vears of war, of international readjustment, of ticklish domestic problems. They have been eight years of govern- mental innovations, sometimes revo- lutionary in their conception; eight «asperate years of meeting emergen- cies that shook the very foundation: ot our national life. Throughout this period Mr. Marshall, as the presiding officer of the United States Senate, has been a force in the solution of these mighty questions. Most of the time, gavel in hand, he has sat back and listened, quietly ex- ercising his influence here and there when occasion required. And at the same time he has gathered some defl- | nite opinions as to our method of gov- ernment. The views are not all com~ plimentary, but they are sincere and filled with common sense. On the rostrom in the Senate Mr. Marshall, keen, observing and a stu- dent of men, has had an opportunity to watch the giant government ma- chine go lumbering along and to take notes on the conduct of those assigned as engineers and firemen. He has had, in a way. an exclusive reserved seat. * Xk k * N[ MARSHALL is about to leave <' washington, giving way to the change of administration on March 4. So, upon the eve of his departure, be. forc the actual packing of his trunk begins, I sought his opinions as those | of a man who asks nothing in politics, and who, for the gnod it will do us in these days of natnal discontent, is willing to pass along the results of his broad _experience. 1 found Mr. Marshall behind his desk in the Senate office building, a man alert, full to the brim_ with native Hoosjer wit, forceful and worth hear- ing. In the hour we had together, Mr. Marshall talked of a number of things, all pertaining to government. And so, as he spoke to me, I set it down for yo “My association in Washington hai been most pleasant,” Mr. Marshall be. gan, “and, o fcourse, 1 do not wish to be critical. At the same time it is ob- vious that many things are wrong with our system of government which could, and should, be corrected. I am old-fashioned in many ways, and it may be my opinions will not strike a popular chord. “To begin with, weé have gotten away entirely from our original idea of representative government. It nev- er was intended that this should be a pure democracy. The fathers who es- tablished the system believed it best to delegate the power of the govern- ment ta those who-were best fitted to exercise it. = “If you have something wrong in- side of you you send for a doctor, not a plumber; if you want to build a house you hire an Architect. There In an Interview He Gives His Plan for Election of a President — Condemns the Primary System—Says the Chief Executive Should Serve One Term of Six Years. tem should not be extended to the se- twenty-five citizens of a county. This lection of the presidential electors to A RECENT PHOTOGRAPH OF VICE PRESIDENT MARSHALL. would be for the purpose of elecnngl delegates to a state convention. represent the .different parties and “The candidate for delegate would | who would, upon their election, get’to- sign a statement that they were not ! gether and choose the best avaable are in this country, unquestionably,|pledged to any candidate for office, | man for President. i e far better fitted to deal with[but would go to the conventlon de-| “It is a popular thing just nojy to governmental affaira than others; this | termined to use their best judgment | talk about a budget system fof ithe fact should be acce in selecting the best and most com- | government, but few persons_iWho “England, I believy the ideal | petent candidates. The nommullonl: talk about it know what a b t form o government 1t is @ system by | would, of course, be made by the|system really is It simply ds convention. | 8o0d to talk’ about. Any budget: “There is no reason why this sys-!tem worth while should provldfi' (I: ¥ Mr. Ox May Stage “Come Back” HE ox i “coming back.” After| Will replace the horse on the farm, having been forced off Ameri- D;“:flx!;mycfififi‘n:(fi“a.:, ,,;. (:r,(,‘::c ,’:::f can farms for several Benera- | Taanees than his” eauine” iBvamy tions by the horse, the bovine | porary. 2 beast of burder ls reappearing in the | agricultural districts. There IS a far- | reaching movement to restore, in part at least, his ancient prestige. In the years to come Mr. Ox is going to have a very conspicuous part in the great work of feeding the people of the United States and the world. which the very beSt minds are at- tracted to the work of the govern- ment. One of the “features of the English system would be of advantage in the United States—it is a dream. perhaps, and would have to be worked out carefully in relation to the system now in force—and that s the oc- casional vote of confidence in the gov- ernment. “Qur present system of electing the President and _thé ~Vice President ought to be changed’to that originally intended. It was the way Washing- ton and others of oyr early Presidents were named. The. residential pri- maries we have noWw mean nothing at all; there is much foolishness about our national political convention: there is much evil ‘fn the customary presidential campaigns. as we have established them. “What this co\m’(% ought to do Tk ok ok ¥ Some persons who are not famfliar th the ox doubtless would remark: ‘What, bring back those slow-moving creatures in this fast-moving age! 1t would be turning back the clock of Drogress at least three generations. The idea is absurd.” But men accustomed to handling oxen know that a sturdy pair of them, would be to select Yhe best possible men as. electors, folloWing out the sys- tem which now is send them to Washfi the President. THe: by the people in eonx special fitness for respect to t men, he duty and men to head the government. force, and then gton to choose ) chosen igeration of their parties and policies for which they stood.!could be relied upon to Vote for the best qualificd hat is it that has reached back in lh:vd\m past and brought forth friend ox after his long period of ob The answer is the automobile. hardly ti ;::er dier apart than the ox and the gasoline engine,” says the Rural New York, the first agricultural jour nal to take up seriously the susges- tion that the ox might well come into “One in s of this scurity? | hink of two forms of farm: properly trained and driven, will ac- complish as much in a day of ‘hard plowing or other heavy work, ae the average span of horses. One of the ctive supporters of the back-to-the- ox movement is Bert Phillips of Han- over, Mass., who has lorge agricul- tural interests. He argues that if a armer should keep a pair of steers coming on each year and turn off a pair every season, he would be mak- i | ore general use on the farm T rntey. “The horse drove the ox off most farms and the horse in lunm"u ing superseded by tne tractor, the D o Phe track. Now there is ac- faally @ movement to bring the oX| Mr. Phillips says that in his own back for farm work. GaRa hé has bourheiataars Ono toasn Most of the long hauls for farm |kept them working hard and sold crops will be made hereafter With|them the next year to the butcher for trucks. Where roads are improved | more than he paid for them. It isn't comparatively few horses are seen al | necessary that oxen should be the Sdinary road work. There are still | snail-like, lumbering animals many any horses used on farms, but their | persons consider them to be. If they by 1s more and more expensive.!are properly trained they will walk Feed 18 high and the horse does not work as many hours during the year as he dig before the gasoline engine; was adapted to motor power. “The ox can be kept for less money nd sold for beef. When trained prop- ‘erly an active Devon or Jersey ox can step liyely. It scems ridiculous at first thought that the rapid truck o car should actually lead us back to the ox for farm work. Yet, under some conditions, that is already hap- pening. ing money, while getting his work done at low cost. Oxen can draw as large loads as horses, can be kept thriving on cheaper feed and are easier to handle. * x X% uI'x‘ may not be generally realized, but the truth is that with the present method thers is nothing to prevent a duly chosen elector from voting for anybody _he chooses ' for President. We say that Senator Hard- ing has been ele~ied President. All right. When it corues to the Electoral college there wodid be nothing in the world to prevent one of the electors from voting for some other man, or all of them, for that matter. They could name, for instance, Gen. Wood, and the people could do nothing about it except swear at the electors. “I have serious doubt if more than a handful of people 4n the United States have read the platforms of the two chief political parties adopted at their national conventions. They were long and tedious and devised to get votes. It took me two and three- quarter hours to read the democratic platform at San Francisco. The plat- forms mean nothing, and the nomi- nation of a candidate. as the party leader merely tends to bring person- alities into the campaign. “This nation is breaking down its Presidents. It will continue to break ihem down as long as the present sys- tem exists. Tne fault is with the de- mand that the President be the leader of the party as well” as the chief executive of the country. Every time somebody Or some group wants some- thing he or they wire or write to bring pressure to bear, and then if it doesn't materialize the President is blamed. In my judg’ gle term for tells of oxen that have been used in connection with horses otlloxl from a trip of several miles n nimals, phlegmatic though they may appear, feeling for their driver than horses, and secem to know him better. No good ox driver thinks of going across the yard to reach his team. He sim- ply calls out and they come to him. The writer recently traveled through many states in the east, south and middle west. It is rather vet to say that the ox is al- * % k¥ It is a case of histary repeating it- gelf, for oxen were among the earliest of domesticated animals, as they un- doubtedly were among the most im-, portant agents in the growth of early i too carly r D ization. They are mentioned in|ready “back.” But unquestionably he Che oidest written records of the He-|is on the way. He has been in ob- brew and Hindu peoples and are fig-|scurity 86 long that his return is in Sred on Egyptian monuments faised | tbe nature of an innovation, and urere tan three.thousand years B. C.|farmers as a class are a bit reluctant Heomains of domesticated specimens|about adopting innovations. The ox heve been found in Swiss lake dwell-|is a money saver, and as such is fngs, along with the stone implements | making his appeal for re-entry into of_neolithic man. American farm life. After the introduction of metal s, sivte b L coinage into ancient Greece, this Interrupted Prayers. method of exchange was commemo- | n the smoking room of La France, rated by stamping the image of an ox on the new money. The value at on a cold, rough, windy day, George Gould said: ment there should be a Presidents. say six ears, which would fit in better with Gur acheme of elections, rather than -year term, as vocate y e e after all, are hu- tached to the ox in ancient times is further shown in tne important part! some. Presidents, it played in Greek and Roman mythol- i man, and while I could not truthfully logy. “These winter passages are un- i en believed that any| The Hindus were not allowed to|pleasant, but they're never dangerous say that 1 ev presidential actiol “One bleak December day I'wa sitting, wrapped up in furs and rug in a sheltered corner of the prome- nade deck of a Cunarder. -The seas were mountains high. The good old boat seemed to stand on her head one minute, and the next she reared right up on her hind legs. “A tiny tot of a boy made-his way shed the blood of an ox and the Egyp- | tians could only do so in sacrificing to their gods. Both. Hindus and Jews were forbldden to muzzle it when treading out the corn; to destroy the ox wantonly was a crime among the «Romans, punishable with exile. Alas, the patient, sad-eyed animal had his era of glory and passed on. Strange. indeed, it is that amid the |cautiously to the young and pretty country. Men who devote themselves |y B "Nurry ‘of this swift twen- | matron seated next me. He steadied over a long period of legislative 8erv-|tjioth century blazing with | himself against her deck chair and Ar jce to & study of governmental affairs the lights of whmmm in all the|sa mn had "been influ- d b litics, it is only fair that e D maeration be removed. It would, 1 feel, make w President at least feel freer in the performance of his duty. “So far as the Senate and the House are concerned, it seems to me that length of service is an asset to the “Mamma, is it wrong to pray that we get home safe? “:Of course not, darling.’ “'Well, he went on, ‘T've been kneeling on a locker trying to pray {that we arrive safe in port, and each naturally are superior to those Withjactivities of lif. e should reap- less_experience. {pear gis primitf iy of man to rhere is much fault in the pri- !take his place in the onward march imary Aystem. I have been opposed |to a greater civiliz ATy for a long time on the ground ! Thus_far the mo : on the way for publiciturn of the ox is perhaps more that it opened the WY 100 ¢ iren. ipronounced throughout New England | time I begin the ship hgaves up and office 1o only A5 were | sufficiently :than in other parts of the country,|throws me on the dec p — he race on their own but keen interest is manifest in man tojroake, pse who did | states. As & matter of fact, the New M ave ‘the means themselves, but : Englanders did not let the ox disap- he friends who did, and who were [pear altogether as a farm animal, as \illing to put up the momey required’was the case in the west and south. for such a campaign. In either case, !Up to as late as thirty years ago of course, it restricts the group which | yokes of oxen were a common sight in fs “vailgble for public office; in the |the flelds of Maine, New Hampshire, case of men whose friends supply the ] Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Is- hecessary money for an expensive |land and Connecticut. Then they be- campaign they naturally are under {gan gradually to give way to horses. obligations to those friends, a thing |A few were secn at county fairs in not_good for government.” the autumn, hitched to stone drags in “Would you I asked, “abolish the |pulling contests, to this day a popular primary gystem? sport among “Down East” rural folk. e Then came the motor trucks and the automobiles, and thousands of Ly WOULD ww . usav-an intermediate | “ormers found their horses’ useful- system,” replied Mr. Marshall, noss o l:‘;t ruflghr:durvd tt:h- Mlllcll- “ s e quintity. se are the men in one which would do away wWith the | N, UEnzland, northern and western, often unjust clamor -about.the Po-|New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Illi liticu! hoss. Tt could be mecomplished | nois and elsewhere throughout the by holding an optional primary, to be | country, who are turning to the ox. arranged upon the demand of any Frebably no one believgs that the-ox ric aceount, and, second, The Leather Profiteer. AT the Players’ Club in Gramercy Park they were swapping profiteer stories. Butler Glaenzer, a critic and collector, said: “I recently helped a leather profi- teer—call him Peter Sweeney John- son—to choose a library for his new 5th avenue house. “Among our lucky finds was & famous old English dictionary. The book was in bad condition, 80 we sent it off to be rebound. “Well, when it came back, gors geously done in green morocco and gold, the leather profiteer flew into a rage. He pointed to the title ‘Jokn- Dictionary,’ on the back, and yelle ‘Why didn't they use the full name—Peter Bweeney Johnson' - tionary?'* 2 - almost as fast as a horse. Mr. Phillips ! in_hayling { lumber, and says that the former have been only a short distance behind the latter in getting home with their load presenting their case for the oxen enthusiasts point out that these in reality have a stronger mates of revenue and expenditures for at least five years. “One of the . troubles about the United States government is that the executive branch grows and Erows. There is no doubt about there being much duplication of work. If you get into a subject you don’t know where to go to get the information. If you are hunting a ramrod you are just as likely to find it in the Department of Agriculture as anywhere else. “When 1 was Governor of Indiana we established what was known as jthe state board of accounts, and its {job was to put into effect in the dif- Terent state offices a unform system of bookkeeping. The board was to ex- jamine the accounts of each of the Istate officers who dealt with fiscal affairs, checking them up each vear. The first year that the board was on the job it saved $525,000 for the peo- ple of Indiana simply in the matter of supplies for the schools. ! “It seems to me that something of | that sort should be established for the i federal government. The only trouble i would be that it would mean the cre- {ation of another bureau. I'm 8o tired { of seeing bills introduced for the cre- |ation of a new bureau that I'd love {to see one for a chiffonier. } * % ok X «¢GUCH 2 board ousht to have the power to reorganize the work of the executive departments and di charge clerks. It should have the last ,word in discharging clerks and there {should be no appeal.” “Do you think there is any chance {of such a board being established to i {reorganize the executive depart- ments?” T asked. “No,” Mr. Marshall replied, “and there probably will not be until the government gets so hard up that we cannot squeeze another dollar out of the people in the way of taxes.” _“Do you think there is much waste in the appropriation bills for rivers and harbors, post offices and the like?"” “Well,” continued the Vice Presi- {dent, “there is no sense In every town fin the country having a post office. ;. There are towns of 300 or 400 which have them and towns of 10,000 which have not. 1 mean post office buildings. In many instances it is cheaper for the government to rent quarters for post office purposes. “They have been using the argument that a post office served a patriotic purpose, that to have an American flag at ‘the top increased the public patriotism. I think there is nothing in such an argument. My experience has been that some of the most dis- loyal persons during the war were those who went around with Ameri- «wan flags in their buttonholes. “I have the greatest confidence in the integrity of the Army engineers, and I think that such sums as are ap- propriated for river and harbor ym provements should be as a ‘lump sum.’ The engineers then should use their discretion as to what should and what should not be Improved. It is a good thing, of course, to have waterways for commerce. On the other hand, ‘pork barrel’ items for the improve- ment of useless creeks ought to be stopped.” “What," I inquired, “has been your most interesting work in the Senate?” Mr. Marshall paused. “The consiZeration of the federal ré- | serve act,” said he. “It happens that I was:one of five members of the Indiana state demo- cratic committee who did not resign in 1896 during the Bryan campaign. I did not agree with those who did re- sign that ‘the silver standard was un- sound, taking the position myself that the matter of ratio was not so im- portant as the establishment of a system which would give the country a currency system capable of expan- sipn in time of need. * ok k% uCONSlDERED in this light, the re- interesting. The sult of the 1896 campaign was vote showeq that McKinley carried every state where there were sound banking facilities, where people did_business by check; the states that Bryan carried werc those which did not have such sound banking facilities, where the men car- ried their money in their pockets. It showed dissatisfaction with poor vanking facilities. “Consequently I always stood for better banking and improved facili- ties, and so when the federal reserve bill came along I took the keenest sort of interest in the debate. Some- thing occurred then that was interest- ing. There was much talk about the necessity of having a 15 per cent gold reserve. One.day I met Senator Bur- ton, whom I regard as one of the most careful students of finance in the country, and I asked him why a 15 per cent g0id renerve was necessary. ‘Why,” said Senator Burton, ‘I've read almost every book on the sub- ject of finance and in none of them docs it explain the necessity for a 15 per cent gold reserve. It has been considered neceasary, simply accept- ed; nomhere is the reason given.’ It is.3 singular thing, but it was possibl€lo see by careful considera- tion of We Senate debate on the fed. eral reserve act that the European war was on its way. It was in De- cember, 1913, that the bill went through, and the war did not come until the fojlowing August. “l recall, when I signed the bill after it passed the Senate, that I pre- dicted a_ war in Kurope within five years. It seemed perfectly simple, The debate, of course, covered a wide :;:f:m“drmlex c:rl’ency and financial s of all the import: were considered. BTt nttions “Every man, woman and child in Germany was paying an inceme tax of 10 per cent. The kaiser had 800,- 000 men under arms snd was bullding an immense navy. The socialists were galning in power, and one of their strongest and most popular policies was disarmament. The socialists were becoming a menace to the kaiser. He saw it coming and did not intend to let them topple him o throne. He had to :opla war in '5;52: to justify the huge expenditures for armament. He wanted to go to war I“t’“:u'otme m:;ll;)n ll;w could lick, and ‘rom s that cam";“.“ 1 saw the war “What is your conception of duty of the Vice President > 1 nkte? 'To preside in the Senate and to be the ‘pinch hitter' for the administra- tion,” Mr. Marshall said promptly. I'm not in sympathy with Senator Harding's idea of having the Vice President attend the cabinet meet- ings. There are several reasons. Either a Vice President is capable o! being President if occasion demands or he is not. There would be nothing quite so pitiful and so dangerous as a Vice President, on becoming Presi- dent, trying to carry out the policies of the man he succeeded. He ought to have ideas of his own and be able to put them into force, unhampered, * k k% ¢¢ A NOTHER thing. In a oabinet session a Vice President, if ithere would be any excuse for his attending, would present his ideas as to how a situation were to be met. His {deas might, or might not, be ac- cepted. 1f they were not accepted then his usefulness as a defender of the administration would be de- stroyed. “I believe the Vice Presldent is able to do much good around the coun- try explaining and defending the ad- ministration. This he would be un- able to do whole heartedly if he had been invited to offer a suggestion and it had been rejected. He would have no heart to defend the policy which finally was adopted and which needed defense. “I do mot believe the people of the country have been just at all times to the President, Mr. Wilson, I believe that he was forced into the war by public sentiment. “When the European war came the President {ssued & pro¢lamation of neutrality, and I believe I am the only living man who observed it literally. Before many months had passed the country was nine-tenths for the al- ‘That idea spread into Germany. It was then that Germany -committed that drove us into the war. Had the neutrality proclamation bee= adhered to the situation we have today, would-mot have been.” the chefs of Rome, desired to eX- Rhibit_in Paris his masterpiece—the | fatted pullet montreuil. These chefs have their own annual salon, like the painters. Although a member of the association, he was forbidden to | exhibit, not by his chef. but by his | employer, proprietor of one of those ismall, expensive restaurants. CHEF INVENTS AN E BY STERLING HEILIG. PARIS, January 1, 1921 N these high Paris restaurants, when a dish is perfect, they sa that it is worthy of this or that personage. Perfect snails are worthy of De Dion, a perfect Cha teaubriand steak is worthy of A tole France, a perfect foie-gras in pie crust is worthy of Marshal Foch and a perfect Rouen duck is worthy There is ve in Pari of Senator Gaston Men a race of gourmets still But you cannot inven new sauc even for new-rich gourme Scare ly four new invented per century. And now it has been done. Jean Souplet, French boy cook, ap- prentice, who won second prize from * ok ok k one of twenty illustrious gour- me from the Comtesse de Noailies and Cecile Sorel to the Grand | Duke Paul and Nobel of the prizes, | would have taken up the gifted | youth's defense had they known his | predicament—which they didn’t, nor could have. But three other 'very difterent personages, hedged with the | divinity of kings, stood by the French | boy cook. Cedard, chef of the Kitch- | ens of King Georse, d’Amici of the Quirinal und Lavocat, with the Duke | of Orleans, up for the salon. went | with Barre, the mond de Roth child chef, ate lunch at the restau- | rant, paid a big bill and asked for the boss. They told their titles. He was ov whelmed. “How can 1 serve you? he asked gayly. “Permit Jean Souplet to exhibit the fatted pullet mon- treuil?” they answered. A “The thing has been a sensation since. The cutlets of breast meat (from another pullet), each dabbed ¢ with its_round of truffle, were coated with ldyers of a new thick sauce paste; and this (never mind the Mon- treuil “peaches” of a mousse of foie- gras) was the novelty. The boy had invented a new sauce—and there are not three new ones in a century! It is thick, cream-colored, in the nature of a mayonnaise, but the se-| verest judges, tasting It again and| again, were quite of accord—it is| completely new, with a perfume due probably to a puree of nuts, not al-| monds. Great cooks and millionaires speak of the boy, Jean Souplet, as painters and patrons would speak of | a new Raphael. They made him sec- ond in the gourmandizing Cerclel! Agricole—the greatest club, that of the landed proprietors—on condition that he keep his secret for them dur- ing four years. Yet the “new sauce” figures in many restaurants. New dishes are more frequent. Chicken fillets Rigolboche is the “creation” of M. Caressa, a friend of Joseph @altier of the Temps news- | paper, himself a gourmet and off whom' the hot duck ple a la royale, when it is perfect, is said to “be worthy.” They are great on hot -pie crust for meat dishes since the war. The fillets Rigolboche of the white meat only are served with slices of fole-gras in a sauce of paprika and mushroom puree. along with red and green pcppers, the whole piping hot in melting pie crust. Caressa has given his dish to that ‘extraordinary little restaurant al-pi ways crowded with illustrious gour-| mets, from Aga Khan and the Duc a'Oldenbourg to Marthe Regnier and Mistinguette—the establishment of Prosper Montagne, who styles him- self old-fashioned and modest “trai- teur.” JJALF the doughboys who were m Paris will remember the spot, al- though they would rub their eves at the miraculous change. Do you re- member the Red Cross sales com-| missariat at the corner of the Rue de | I'Echelle around behind the Regina? Today, it is dark colors, blue predomi- nating, with heavy furniture, lights from a visible kitchen, * ok kK According to Records, This I the Third| New Sauce in a Century, and It Surpasses Many of the Fam Years—Heilig Te of Parisi hed Lapeyreuse, Lucas and Voisin, to newer places like the Griffon. ary’s or Beauge's. But chiefl rich juices of the great French the Chateaubriand, renew his blood globules and sustain ‘his brain cells ous Ones Used for L A Teiuaaphs” an COO](S. < in their cooking hours.” into their of but- Depper broad to perfect t Juice for The sn shells with ter, chop and par: b - e NTIRELY NEW SAUCE with young squash, tomato and curry sau gratince. * X % % A NOTHER new dish (f the intro- duction of fried scallops makes it so) is the old reliable fillet of Barbue Morna Brat ¢ with the lighte lightest grated crust, and served with those fricd scallops which [ New Yor r if we haven't | ®ot them. bps. it may be said. 4 kind of shelitish appreciated by . new Parisian thing is never to use flour for thickening, but invariably to substitute Nor- randy ttany cream. Did it ome war., which rationed flour to the sworn bakers and made -it a cricm to use flour in the kitchen” THE “POKER AND DICE SADD SADDLE, POT ROASTED IN A CASS| BY BANKS OF TINY YOU. POSED OF “STUFFING” OF CARROTS, TURN AME HELD TOG AL® FROM THE KITCH 0SES UPON AN EDIFICE PS AND ASPARAGUS TI STHER WITH MEAT 4 LE OF V EROLE, R D N OF A PARIS CHE THE LARDED OF WHITE CORNSTARCH, FLANKED THE DICE AND CARDS ARE COM- WINE JELLY. IT IS SERVED COLD. Eighty years ago the restaurant chef, Champeaux. invented it for Chateau- briand himself—thick steak of filet grilled between two thinner slices of rump steak. The latter vield their gravy to the filet and give it a ten- derness obtained in no other way. Only the filet is served, passed : quickly over a very fire to einge its outer surface. actly how they do aVl this remains a French cook’s secret. The _fried potatoes that go with the eaubriand have been a tour. ist gnyptery all my life in Paris. They say thut Rochefort, the French editor and pelitician, invented them in his Londo® exile and brought them back to France—*well worth his ran: They come in big slices, as we sweet potatoes in America, but each slice i3 swelled like a balloon—light, airy, tender! b HOTAlr. ves: but how do they get tHg hot air into the slice of fried patato?. I have seen intelligent ho wives receiv the information that each slice it “plown up.,” or “inflated” with a ailver-pointed bellows; but the in flation is really brought about by the after being bright * kK X process of cooking. follows: The potato slices are half-cooked in moderately hot lard over a slow fire; Then dried and allowed to cool oft a trifle, and finally jumped brusque- | centuries ago, in the shade of their ly inté sizeling, red-hot lard, where they awell and swell and swell. 1t is quite possible that Boni de Castellane invented the potato tha bore his name, before patriotism r named it potato berthelot. It is moderate-sized baked potato in its jacket, They cut out its center, until it is something of a shell, but with dancing |gome good plain potato still around | and | Ts inside, and into the hole is stutfed by F e with painful attention | The system is as jed. spitted and grilled. with maitre d'hotel sauce. So does President Mille- |rand love them f you like Bur- |gundy and do not like snails, |the poet Montesquicu-Fezen because you do not love eithe * ok ¥ ¥ Ex- | | HIS is gourmandizing, not glut- tony, but what would you think of an elegant Parisian (of Turk, Tar- | tar or Persian ancesiry), who serves his guests with exquisite correctne | aa though So much dearer, was foned in the same way-—flour 1 national affair. In any very s made and the cook builds up his & from mecat juices. of beef, chicken, veal, ete, with cream and without flour. X v for novelty. for rarit es, just now, from Bel- gian hothous The proprietor , “are novel and rare. 1 buy six trays o whopping big ones; and, if all goes well, your bill contains “strawber- ries, 200 francs” (I just guess at the figure). But if it proves to be a slack woodcock and ortolans and eve y. with many émpty tables, the And Ve oprietor sits down and eats two elicacy from hot hors-d'oeuvres 10| el rily of those expensive. straws Belgian hothouse peaches, but slips |berries. They-are not lost. You will v S reible|find them in your bil along with off by himself for a single terrible| &% materia), tangible berries which dish of sheepshead? It is mot A | Khan, nor is it the C “One person, one sheepshead!” the glutton's motto. Stuffed with bar- barous stuffing, in which mingle sun flower sceds and dried raspberries, the head is baked for hours, and the | next worst thing to eating it is to see |it eaten. King Milan, who had Tar- |tar ancestry. taught Paris chefs to | make the concoction, and it has been | handea down, in contiuual secret de- | mand, even by Hungarian magnate: | before the war. It is atavism. Seven is | tents, their forcfathers thrust the | hand into the bake pot and grabbed the same prize morsels, here an ear- ip, there an eye, all good! They call -head Boris. Certain restaurants have gone far in naming dishes for clients. Such has been the Tour d'Argent, created deric, the impressionist chef of it sheep's JEAN SOUPLET, AT RIGHT, THE BOY COOK, WHO INVENTED A NE OF FRANCE” IN CENTER. HE IS MASTER OF THE K THE THRONE. 'CHENS OF THE DUC D'ORLEANS, PRETE “COOK OF THE KING DER TO heavy all-silver cooking utensils—a single saucepan from 300 to 1,100 francs. Nobody would recognize the whifully old-fashioned “kitchen-par- for.” A New Yorker, who prides him- self on keeping up-to-date, said last summer, when the dellar was at 12 france:* Take things on the card; don't let Prosper chogse for you—‘let me do” If you ‘let him do.’ it will be fine and dandy, but he will ‘do’ on a grand scale. I have lunched there, three persons, for a hundred "(rline!. but others have pald dearer! ‘A hundred francs is 36 today. Is it too dear for a mew dish like Pros: per's ballotine of hare in Chamber- in and trufiles, or old French cookery of the mijote, or “simmering” school? “], the proprietor, am down here at 8 a.m.” says Prosper, “preparing the dishes myself, directing the cooks, so that when the clients arrive at noon they have plates which have been preparing, sometimes, thres hours— which does not.prevent improvised dishes for the ladies, who want some. thing light, like the medallion of veal with cream-paprika sauce and fresh mushrooms. There is no grill here. No frying. A grillade is all right in_its place, but here ‘we are for the glow, the soigne, the luscious. He is an extraordingry man, who came into view with the war. He was at the Maison de la Presse, ‘worked on the Bulletin des Armees, organized the Manuel du Cuistot—army cook book—and toward the end was sent on gavernment missions to the Ameri- can packing hous A kind of Louis Forest, who is also a professional cook. Forest comes there to eat the pieee of beef braised twelve hours in red wine, There are lots of men who cannot work on wine at lunch, but these Frenchmen seem to find no difficulty. Grand old Anastole France, at seventy- seven, still survives it grandly. Since his recent marriage he has been twice up in Paris, taking in the gastro- nomlo-novelties, from the old-estab- LY [ I a farce of crayfish, mashed yolks and hashed whites of hard-boiled eges, and cream and seasoning. Then the hole is closed and the potato put back into the oven to serve as a surprise. But Gen. Berthelot really invents dishes. Recently, it is said that hd gave the world that piquant dish of quails “poached” in a saucepan (com- pletely cooked at slow ebullition) to- gether with a good quantity of mot quite ripe Muscatel grapes, Ah, me! It you don't believe it, try it! They say that the general revived it from a recipe of imperial Rome. You know that they eat snails? Of course, the snails are previously purged” by fasting and prayer, and become much cleaner than oysters. It is the snail of the French wine dis- tricts, and the Marquis de Dien has long been its most consummate con- noisseur. He prefers the little gray Bordeaux variety. Although the bij Burgundians are more highly flavo tenderness in snails is a grand quali ——tthere is always flavor enough!” The marquis equally investigated the champagne snail, delicate a§.d clean- feeding beast, tender, but lscking in body. And, now, here is the secret -word of it (which restaurant proprigtors hide from you). To enjoy all the elusive perfume of red Bur- gundy wine (which does not go well with oysters) you must eat the Bor- deaux snail for tenderness, fraudu- lently introduced into the big Bur- gundy shell for illusion and the sauce. ‘When neatly polished, the shells look like the yellow vine-leaves, crumpled, on which the poetic little creature feeds exclusively. “Boll your snails ten minutes,” slys‘ Luclen, who has quit the Ritz to set up for himself. “Take them from their shells, and let them stand in a dish of salt water. Drain again. Into & saucepan, put five quarts of water, three of white wine, with salt, pepper, bay leaves, thyme, onions, carrots and garlic. Cook slowly two hours, and then (here 18 a secret) let them ‘lie last | T | sky-blue sauces, pearl-gr: i purces, Nilo-green soups and pale-purple stuffings! Frederic is no more, but the establishment is at its 57.630th duck in the press, whose sauce Fred- {eric is said to have invented, although | the claim is disputed. “There is not {an American in Paris who does not come here,” i the other boast of the { Tour d’Argent, but its original clien- {tele was of gourmandizing wine- | growers come up to Paris on business | with the big wine merchants of Bercy, {that “walled town” within the city nearby. Being Derfect connoisseurs, they knew how seldom is really new dish invented, and they cared not a hoot for a mporary tag. The others have been the fine fleur of foreign residents in Paris for whom Frederic named his dishes. There was the lobster Alexander— since, the lobster Pershing; the Wan- amaker veal, the Hyde vol-a-vent, the Tuck turkey, the J. W. ezgs. But you have got faithful client or the dish you are <0 proud of risks to disappear and another which tastes just like it wiil be due with a mew name. Few Paris restaurants are able to completely resist this naming of dishes after especimlly good cus- blmer The Hennessy Whiting, for eXample, is a Paillatd dish. The delicate fish lies on a bed of breaded mashed potatoes, being stuffed with oysters, shrimps and sliced truffles. And the Melba peach was originally invented at Paillard’s thirty years ago to please that monumental old gourmpt, Prince Galitzine. Then they stuck the peach full of almonds. They took the almonds cut and called for the Griggd Duke Alexis. And then, years passthg, they added some ice cream and named it the peach Melba! Prosper Montagne says limit this sort of thing to the names of artists, saints and heroes. His new fllet of sole is called descriptively qurhn— which is highbrow for the Rivier: partitularly in its eastern reach rand Duke Paul. } you eat trawberries, 300 francs.” he bill says. “Strawberries are scarcer,” the po- lite waiter informs you. And it is the simple truth. “Tru says Prosper. “Without truth we are nothing! Justice is its child, freedom its handmaiden, peace its companion: safety walks in its |steps and victory follows In its j train®” Lines on the Wall. AY autbority on period furniture |¥ warned a debutante in interior {decorating against the danger of com- bining furniture of one historic pe- | riod with that of another, in the same iroom t even worse,” he said, “are mis- { takes like the one I once came across. A rich voung society woman asked (me to visit her Perdian room in order |to et my advice about certain jchanges she wished to make. I found ithe room very beautiful; the low {silken divans, the soft. dark rugs, the ijeweled lamps and Striped satin drap- ieries all blended marvelously with the brilliant gold, green, red and yel- low arabesques of walls and ceiling. Deep panels of jet black wood wains- | coated the walls, and over the doors there were innumerable mottoes \traced in beautiful gold Persian let- ters. “In the midst of my discussoin with the Persian expert whom 1 had taken with me, the charming owner of the om exclaimed: “*Oh, by the way, could this gentle- man, perhaps, translate those Per- |sian ‘mottocs over the doors? I often {wonder what they say. I always iimagine them to be some lovely poeti- cal lines from Omar g of that sort.” e Persian smiled ,““I have been puzzled for some time, madam,’ he said, ‘about the introduc. tion of those mottoes h 1 did not about them for fear they were me private reason. Oddly sontinued, “there are but in all, expressed; but repeated over and over May all my enemies nd the other is, “May Khayyam or | encegh, two W these ure gain. One die by torture I have fifty sons.’ [ — Before and After. uB 'ORE and after pictures, an opera singer at a Ph phia mus 1, fford some very strik- ing contrasts. This is especially true of before and after pictures of mar- ringe. - “A man sat with pipe and book and 1515 bottle of hooch before the radiator one night while his wife turned a three-year-old dress. “The man laid_down his book and tossed off his fifth drink of hooch. His wife looked up at him’calmly, and 1 said: “‘George. when you proposed to me you said you were not worthy to undo the latchets of my shoes.’ “George stared at her in amagement. «‘Well, what of it? he snarled. othing, she answered; ‘only 1 will say for vou that whatever else you were, you weren't a liar. Worth the Difference. «N\TELLIE MELBA.” said an actor, 4N “was visited during the London season by the wife of a war profiteer, “The war profiteer's wife wanted Melba to sing at a reception she was about to give. Melba consented, ask- ing $1,000 in our money for her work, But the profiteer's wife haggled a little over this price. She thought $100 ought to be thrown off. Natur- ally, however, Melba refused to throw off a cent. all right, then,' agreed the s wife. ‘Oh, by the way,’ sl added, as she took leave. Of cour: 1 shan't expect you to mingle with my guests.’ “Melba smiled. ““In that case.’ she sald, off the $100 after all. The Same Thing. ~HE American-born Viscount Astor, whose American wife is the first woman to become a member of the English parliament, ‘objected, on his father's death, to accepting his title of nobility on the ground that it would drive him from the Strenuous house of commons #> the tarpid huuse of rores. “I fee] like Mr. Gladstone,” he said one day to an American journalist, *“Mr. Gladstone was held wup In Threadneedle street by a broker who i 1 throw I said: I hear they want to make you a peer. “‘What they want,’ 5aid Mr. Glad- 'stone, ‘is to make m pear. AT