Evening Star Newspaper, November 5, 1898, Page 19

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 1898-24 PAGES. 19 tional Literary and 1898, by the Int News § erna’ Special Corespendence of svening Star. Vv YORK vember 5, 1898. Ac girl who fs to be+one of the « brides fs dispiaying much in- ger in the management of her trous- sea In order to make a little money pro- vide fo- many social emergencies, every one of her taflor dresses is made with a ght-fitting basque and a shirt waist, so that she may alternate between the close and easy bo¢ Her evening dresses have three waists each; one decollete, one high in throat and with elbow sleeves for receptions and small dinners, and one dainty shirt for occasions even less formal. This girl's cloth costumes are almost anique In their simplicity. The braid, the the applique of the winter's fashions are conspicuously absent. “Why asked a girl friend who had begged to ac- company her to the dressmaker. e “Well,” said the Thanksgiving bride, “I €o not quite subscribe to the doctrine that ‘a fashion that is a fashion is no longer a fashion; but my friends who know tell me that from over-trimming we shall swing back to little or no trimming, and so I follow my own taste for simple gowns. The finest embroidery, ostumes I have made with- in the month,” said the dressmaker in cor- roboration, “are very little trimmed. The bride's traveling costume, which large, is nearly finished, has a tweed skirt soft-toned plaids in dull blues and greens. At the hem is a narrow band of black fur broadtail. The smart, tight-fitting coat of dark green cloth has a collar band covered with the fur. “One touch more would spoil it,” said the dressm : ‘To the sleeves of this gown the dres: maker did not accord the same approval. “They should be tighter,” she maintained discontentedly. “Tl fell everybody it's not your fault my arms are not as crooked as other ople’s,” returned the bride with a touch mischief. “Do you know I was in a hionable private school in New York the cther day when the teacher tried to rest the girls in the middie of a study ried by putting them through the st st kind of gymnastic drill. It was just if pe 2 five minui affair with rods, not the sort of thing for which gymnasium suits are necessary: but out of twenty-four girls couldn't lift their arms for the up id down movements. The teacher—a man —didn't understand the trouble, but I knew jn a minute; they were wearing the new Fi i th But I maker. termined om Comfort. yes, you do,” sald the bride with @ laugh that was not contradictory; “you know you do. You had a woman here when I came who had to adjust her hat at leaving before she put on her waist; I could see her in the glass in the next room. You know the new tight sleeves won't let you lift your arms more than a few inches from the sides, and they are set into the Walsts in such a way that there is a pull across the shoulders. If the s are really what you call cor- rect, to straighten Why. yes, 1 suppose so,” admitted the ker; “but women, or girls for that are not expected to indulge in gym- don’t see—” began the dress- “Oh, te marry don't propo! in dress m: excuse ck of over of To Wear With table Light Waists. blac cream trimmed d with a la s0 nent in front of FOR PHE RAINY SEASON. Some Pretty and hse brelias Are Oa London Mail. jex in Um rew re sold r and thday pres and uns un use of one and They are rather expen- may well be expected, ver, odd pieces of chin pressed Into the ed umbrellas are being used; ravagant, for they must match with h they go. They are nd are carried unfolde: of t the dress, ‘al umbrellas of extrava- color they piec zane y of rather a bright color to ide with the g of a hat or the stock worn; or be the same hue as a smart coa nis 1s a sort of notion that gives a un extra touch worth a special effort to n en you will notice enamel perched on on another, an ap- quince are also dis- la s-lookg snake with uth wide open. This carried out fancy wood has quite a bril- the moment a »gue for col- a result of ad. After all, y with than to They came out In « smart races in the and so have arrived here now. rellas are for rule may ken, however, that the foned large almost as extinct as the dodo, remain so, for it was heavy 1 always getting in other he man who invented the slender tube stick, which Is so light and yet so strong, leserves a monument all to himself. It puts to shame the bulky weapon with which we used to be so contented. Actually we as a blessing, that old cum- estresses (not so very far either) used to have to wield. they had to have maids or ants to carry these wonderful es over thelr heads what time they hobbled along on curtous clogs, or pattens, to keep thelr feet and skirts out of the mire. When unfortunate enough to rub or tear @ piece from the outer surface of a black kid glove or kid shoe, take a few drops of Sweet ofl and mix i with an equal amount of black ink; apply this mixture to the white spot, or any part that may be rub- bad, and the spot will hardly be noticeable. This treatment will also freshen an old pair of black kid gloves. ong cape of black velvet which rounded 2way in front and hung in folds on the shoulder. It was a wonderfully pretty af- fair, trimmed with rows of lace insertion, studded with steel and finished with a deep flounce of broadtail at the bottom. It had a brocade lining and was fastened at the throat by a cream lace scarf that reached to the ground. The ripple shoulder cape of broadtall was surmounted by a high col- lar of the same fur. isn't it provoking?’ the Iittle shopper demanded. “When we had big sleeves and needed capes to keep them from crushing, the fashion was coats; now that sleeves are smaller than the arms, a’most, the prettiest | things are capes, and capes of such a shape and length that most women are guys in them. Just look at me in this!” Capes Best for Tall Figures. The plump, dimpled little creature cer- tainly was comical in the enveloping cape, reaching to her knees. Nl the fashions are made for women of five feet eight and lean as rails,” she sputtered; “but I'm not as badly off as women who don't fit the fashions and don’t know it. Show me some- thing for my figure," she demanded of the saleswoman. That individual brought out coats longer than the capes; redingotes with demi- trains. A beautiful garment of castor cov- ae ert lined with fur throughout and with high fur collar, cuffs and revers was all but irresistible. “Suitabl2 only for a car- r wrap,” the little shopper said firmly. 1 length coats are too heavy to waik | | fost fashionable protested the itute three. garment of the sea- salesman, producing as rt2r coats cut on the a sub; same lines as the longer ones, curving up [shortly in front and dropping in th a cutaw One like a lengthened | XVI coat was of castor covert lined MISS FLORA SHAW. Something About the Colonial of London's Thunderer. From the Montreal Herald. Miss Flora Shaw, colonial editor of the | London Times, made the entire Journey from London to Dawson City in thirty-one braved the privations and dangers of Shaguay alone and unaided, traveled the long miles of the Yukon, to Dawson and back, without female companions, and | without reliance on other than her own in- aditor th chivalry of the race. And when it is added that not an insulting word or look greeted her throughout the journey the justification for her faith is complete. The stories which Miss Shaw will have to tell of her experi- during the toilsome six weeks in the far northwest, of how rough miners kept uly tongues in check when in her pres- ence, waited at dangerous places on the trail to help her pass them, confided to her their simple tales of “loved ones left _be- hind,” and in a hundred little ways and by a hundred little offices showed their sym- pathy and respect—these stories will be such as to increase the reader's faith in the basic soundness of human nature. Miss Shaw apparently is a strong be- liever in the axiom that faster who travels alone journeys for the Times invariably travels as am individual unit aching herself to no party and not assuming the responsi- bilities and delays that might be incident to companionship. But it must not be as- d from this that Miss Shaw is of a uline character. On the contrary, she an English lady, quiea in all the pathies of her sex, but endowed by nature power of will, of observation and of sion that have found ample verge and room in the subject to which she has ed all her energies—the relations of nd and her colonies, with particular erence to the development of the world empire that is evolving from the mother Jand and her beyond-sea possessions. To this work Miss Shaw has brought an en- thusiasm which carries her through diffi- culties that would daunt almost ail man- kind, as well as womankind. Her reward has been found in the unique position she holds as one of the leading authorities on those questions, now of such pressing in- terest, that relate to the empire as a whole. it may be said of Miss Shaw without exag- geration that she has not been by any means the least of the forces working for the unification of the empire. Her judg- ment may sometimes be questioned, her conclusions combated, but of her ‘wide knowledge of the men who are empire building, her acquaintance with the move- ments of which they are the motive power, her enthusiasm, her courage and her in- tellectual ability it is not easy to speak too highly. Miss Shaw ts certainly one of the remarkable women of the age. oo oe “Mamma, what {s classical music?” “Oh, don’t you know? It’s the kind that you have to like whether you like it or not.”"—Tit-Bita, ‘she travels the and in her . domitable spirit and her trust in the innate | with a warm, rich red and ornamented with broad revers of mink, whose ripples Were accentuated by lace frills. Anoth2r of much the same shape was of Persian lamb with a jeweled belt and chinchilla collar and revers. A third coat combined Persian lamb and Alaska sable. “Impossible for a short woman,” sald the brid2, ‘‘and an ugly length for a tall woman. Three-quarter coats are fit only for women of medium height and perfect figure.” Three-Quarters Most Desirable. “There are box coats,’ sald the sales- man dubiously, “and tight-fitting short jackets; In fact, there are garments of every length, but the three-quarter coats, next the full length, are the most desir- able.” “Not for me; not for any short woman,” said the brid2, shaking her head vigorously. In the end we laid aside two garments for “‘papa’s’’ approval; a short, close-fitting seal coat with revers, collar and cuffs of caracal, and, if the price of this should not be forthcoming, a shoulder cape that one might have supposed to be made of a p2culiarly soft gray moire, but that was really of undyed baby lamb. This second ®arment was edged with a frill of chin- chilla and tied at the throat with a lace scarf. There went with it a muff of the same two furs adorned with velvet bows and lace frills, and a fur toque trimmed with black ostrich feathers, a scarf of green chiffon and a bunch of green leaves. “What are the most fashionable furs?’ we asked of the salesman. Passing of the Ermine. “White broadtail, if you judge by ex- pense,” he answered. ‘‘Ermine is not used much except for linings and revers. Chin- chilla does not hold quite the place it had last winter. Persian lamb is as high-priced as always, and, of coursa, to many people there fs no fur like the beautiful Russian sable.” A freakish costume that we saw was a cycling sult of soft gray chinchilla for winter riding. The outfit consisted of a short fur skirt with a belted coat and a [eee Russian cap of the same material. j If the idea finds favor winter cyclis look like some new tribe of Esquime: here's one more thing I want,” said | the little shopper; “‘one of those long pele- rines with tabs that reach the ground; in | seal, perhaps, with an ermine or a caracal {cuff about the shoulder cape, and some | other Muish than the high cotlar. Muftling the throat up gives one so many colds.”” “Practically, there are no garments with- | out the high ‘collar,” said the salesman. “And my money ig all gone,” returned | the bride. STILL N VOGUE. rate Silk Waist Gone Out of Style. From Harper's Bazar. One thing that has been positively de- cided is that the separate silk waist has not gone out of style. If possible, there are more separate silk waists exhibited than at this time last year, and there are to be \ found many different varieties of shape as well as materials. They are made to be worn with cloth skirts, as well as with silk skirts, for morning, afternoon and theater wear. These same shirt waists are made with a yoke, with fullness enough in front to blouse, and with medium-sized sleeves finished at the wrist with a cuff. The new style waists are all tight-fitting. If there 1s a loose, graceful effect in front, the lin- ing is tight-fitting and boned. There is a great deal of lace used in the trimming, as well as narrow ribbons, both of silk and velvet. The yoke effect has not gone out of style. Indeed, almost all of the new waists have the yoke and the straight piece down the front of some material or color different from the waist—linen in narrow tucks or silk in narrow tucks, in white, yellow, lgbt blue or green, any one of which is used for both the plain and fig- ured silks. The latest ts a bolero jacket and strips of entre-deux in straight lines down the front. Both black and white laces are used. Sometimes both are used together, but the heavier qualities of lace, like Irish point and guipure, are more fash- fonable by far than the French laces that were used on the summer waists. All waists come below the waist line, and are finished with a ribbon belt or a narrow belt of velvet, and fastened in front with a buckle. Buckles and fancy buttons are one of the points of these new waists. With the new blue costumes this year there are shown some very odd silk waists supposed to be correct for morning wear as well as for afternoon and evening. The smartest are of corded silk (white), cut with a yoke back and front, and then the silk below the yoke bloused a little. Out- lining the yoke, coming down to a point in the back and also in front, is some most effective embroidery done by hand in silk floss and spangles. It is of the shade of the gown, outlined with shrimp pink and very minute paillettes or iridescent steel. The yoke and front of the waist are of Irish point lace. The sleeves are long and ex- tend far down over the hand, and have a ruffle of Lrish point lace. ———+ e+ _____ To remove a grease spot from woolen silk material, thoroughly saturate the piace with turpentine and place a piece of soft blotting paper b3neath and another on top of the spot, and press very hard. The fat is dissolved, then absorbed by the paper, and entirely removed from the cloth. = ———_+e+ Thousands of situations have been ob- tamed through the want columns of The The Sep Has Not HOUSEHOLD HINTS/STYLES IN COATS ¢ With the ccming on of winter the dict shouid be changed ‘to include a plentiful supply of the carbohydrates or heat and energy-producing foods. Split pea soup, while too heavy for frequent summer usc. {3 a capital cold Weather food, and should occupy a prominent place on our bills of fare. Quite as valuable as the bean, and already freed from .the skin or cellulose matter, which is apt to be indigestible, the split pea should be more employed in soups and as a vegetable. This is an excelicnt recipe for split péa squp: Pick over, wash and soak over night one cup of split peas. In the morning put in a kettle with three pints of coll water and simmer untii dis- solved. Add one cup of tomatoes and rub all through a sieve. Add one tablespoonful of butter, a tablespoonfui of flour dissolved in cold water, one teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper, and let come to a boil. Just Lefore serving add croutons or squares of buttered bread browned in the oven. If a saltspoon of soda is added when the peas are put on to simmer it will hasten the soft- ening process. 1 on tcast” is again in season, and the hearts of invalids and dainty feeders are rejoiced within them. While quails simply roasted with plenty of pepper and 2 Uttle salt are quite worth the’eating, broil- ed and served with bacon they become 1 dish fit for a king. Carefully wipe off his quaiiship—to wash him is sacrilege—split and break the leg bones. Salt and pepper the birds—it is safe to say you have at least a half dozet—lay in a flat dish and cover with two tablespoonfuls of the best olive oil. Let them lie tn this bath for ten minutes, then wrap in a paper case. Spread with olive of! and broil for eight or ten minutes over a clear fire or saute in the chafing dish, cooking the birds about six minutes on each side. Have ready six si delicately browned toast, place the birds upon them, baste with a mixture of one ounce sweet butter, half a teaspoonful fine- ly chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of lem- on juice and one grating of nutmeg. Lay upon each plump brown breast a thin slice of delicately browned bacon, and eat with a thankful hear! When furristing a room it should be re- membered that to make it pleasing to the eye there should always be harmony be- tween the wecdwork and tke floor and wall covering. ‘The appropriate woods for the parlor, for instance, are the light woods— birch, syeamcre, bird's-eye maple cr satin wood—while the walls and furniture cover- Ings, to harmonize, should be light, with gtaceful effects. The library and sitting rcom, on the contrary, with massive furni- ture and heavy stuffs for coverings and Graperies, demand deeper-colored wail pa- pers and wecdwork of mahogany or stained cherry. ‘She Engiish love for the natural woods is shown in the wainscoting of t dining rooms—a fashion we are copying. In the dining room, therefore, the wood- work dominztes the room, but in all other rooms the wood should be subordinate to the other decorations. Chops and dry fish are all most delicate broiled in paper. Use neavy white note paper spread with olive oil or butter. When the article to be broiled is laid therein salted and peppered, the edges of the paper case should be turned over several times like a little hem, and pinched together close to the,meat. ‘The paper will char a long while before igniting, and the centents will be basted in their own juices. The time required, fox broiling in paper is usually about @jght, minutes. When the paper is well browned the contents will be dene to a turn—juiey, delicate and digest'- ble for even tha stamach of an mvaltd. Serve in its envelope, which conserves the heat and juices to the moment of eating. The large filet of chicken broiled in this way is delicious and easy of assimilation. birds Frizzled venson ‘made of the “jerked” meat is a chcice Iuneheon dish, and may be prepared in the, chafing dish. Shave the pin thin slices, nd put in the cutlet rous Jump of butter. Toss lightly until it frizzles or curls, add a spoon: fu! ef cur t jelly and serve with bak rotatces, rolls and coffee. This is popuiarls supposed to be the accepted way of cook- ing venison whem in,;camp; but the camp which furnishes’ its cupants with jelly m or rolls 18, it is needless to say, a camp sui generis. In opening a bottle of olives bear in mind that those remaining over will juickly mold and beccme worthless, unless at on replaced in the liquor in the botile corked. If che liquor gets thrown away ake a tresh brine of salt and replace ft. The kitchen floor should never, under ircumst ia be covered with woolen terial, while oilcloth and painted pine are Vkewise objecticrable. The ideal kitchen ficcr is tiled, ond the walls as well; but, failing that, a Georgia pine floor covered with two coats of paraffine of! will be fou most. satistactery should be thr In cold weather there > or four rather small, thick rugs, that the cook or housekeeper m not suffer with cold feet. These, needle: to say, should be shaken and aired ev day. nds neatly with linen lace borde s they will do service for « long time as oilet napk and scarfs. cut of 4 hook shelf for the cook books on house- hold economy should ang in regulate chen, where they can be read- ily co. A slate and pencil should hang beside this, where the cook may make a memorandum of supplies needed. he latest andwiches male of lettuce or nasturtium leaves is the at one of “Nebuchadnezzar sand- Do not forget that an invalid should not touch pork, and should be given veal or lamb only in the form of soup. ——_— A COMbORTANLE TRUNK. It Can Easily Be Writi From the Chicago Chronicle. The newest combination piece of travel- ing furniture is a desk, bureau and d- robe trunk for the commercial traveler. When open and in use this trunk stands on end. The top drawer pulls out and forms a rest for the desk Hd. It is parti- tioned off into compartments for station- ery. The lid of the desk opens down and forms the writing table. The upper part of the desk is divided into the usual lot of pigeonholes for letterheads, envelopes, let- ters, contracts, billheads, blotters and the like, similar to an ordinary office desk on a small scale. All the desk part is finished in oak, ana the drawers faced with dark red leather and fitted with brass handles and hinges, so put together that the gefects usually found in a combination trunk are done away with. The second drawer, is divided up into compartments fpr underwear, neckwear, collars and cuffs,and @ hat box lined with quilted satin. ‘The fhird drawer 1s for shirts, and the lawerjone for wearing ap- parel. ae In the lid of this remarkable trunk are a clothes rack and, straps arranged like a lower tray in an ordigary trunk, but cng enough to carry trousers and coats without folding. kc ‘There is somejimes, an interchangeable arrangement madg to fit a place of the two lower drawers, apd this is a single section in drawer form fitted with cleats to carry a typewriter... Strange as it may se ing bed tucked away jin any corner, nor a cooking stove, otherwise the traveler would not need a hotel. i gah aS. w Muffs. From the St. Louis Republic. ‘The novelties in muffs this year are more beautiful than ever, though not designed for comfort. It is said that some of the muffs really have no openings for the hands, the only concession to conyentence being in a Httle pocket sewed upon the inside for the re- ception of the handkerchief or a tiny purse. One of the prettiest muffs yet séen was of shiny black silk broadcloth nearly haif a yard long: It was very narrow and was almost completely covered with a huge bow of white ribbon, brilliantly striped with broad bands of crimson. The ribbons which held {t around the neck were of red and black double-faced satin. + + “Is the new hotel elegantly furnished?” “Elegantly furnished! They have gilded cockroaches.”—Chicago Record, med Into a tem, there is n> fold- How to Make Old Ones Into Favored New Shapes. EASY FOR THE UP-TO-DATE WOMAN Renovating is an Art Worthy the Best Attention. SOME JAUNTY MODELS ee Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, November 3, 1893. Before you buy a new winter coat—if you are sericusly considering such a s.ep—look in your garret (in these modern days your Uny store room in the cellar) and take out of your cedar chest (otherwise trunk per- fumed with camphor) the heavy winters coat of several winters ago, which you fave hated to give or throw away because it was so soft and warm. Consider care- fully its good points, It is not too long, even though it be three-quarters length or even a long ulster, and whether it be dou- ble-breasted and tight-fitting or double- breasted with loose or box fronts, it Is immaterial. All are worn. é fucky may you count yourself if it is 4 very old-fashioned coat, for then it will have two double plaits in the back and large pocket flaps on each hip, and will also be decorated with large pearl button Nor need you count yourself wholly with- out remedy if it is a three-quarter coat, with a ripple skirt put on just below the waist line. The seam caused by this ripple effect did seem hopeless at first, but some coats have just appeared, the model cf which has this self same seam on the side. To be sure the back of this coat is cut in one piece, but that is immaterial. With all the braid and buttons of tolay the fact that the seam goes all about the coat will not be noticeable. Huve the vippie taken off and put back with the fullne in the back, where it should be thrown into two side ptaits. The fronts should be cut into rounding instead of sharp points. One way of cutting the front of this year’s coat is to have only a shert basque in the front, and then have the sides slope off, beginning a little behind the second bias. This is a modification of the Louts XVI effect, which is most splendidly shown in such rich ma- terials as silk and velvet. It is the new rounding fronts which ren- der alterations easy. Many of the coats are quite short in front, with rounded eor- ners and slope gradually into a long pos- tillion back. This style is not becoming to all figures, but one can arrange many medifications of it, and although it has an old-fashioned air, that is what we are all striving for just now. It certainly has the merit of rendering a matter of compara- tive ease the cutting over of old coats into new and favored shapes. The sleeves of some of the older coats are not so very far out this year of our Lord. The sleeves of the coats wi the ripple flounce may be quite out of date—perhaps impossible, accordirg to your tailor—for sometimes those sleeves were amed in the mutton leg above the elbow. But noth- ing is impossible if the cloth is a good one, and you must convince the tailor of this fact. After a little experience in the won- derful manner in which good material may be turned and twisted you will learn that by turning a sleeve upside Jown—as is often done by a skillful senovator—even seams can be eliminated. A Coat Tule and Moral. Speaking of renovating reminds me of the sad little tale of a coat which was made over but not dipped, and thereby hangs a moral for ali prudent women. The coat was blue ssrge and there was likewise a skirt to match. Neither of the garments were lined, and together they made an ex- cellent gown for wear in the hot weather with shirt waists, The ownsr thereof was trying to live in New York on a moderate yet not ungenero: lary, and therefore fonnd it needful to resort to many ex- pedients to appear well dress+d and yet have enough silver left to pay for a hali bed room in a livable quarter of the town. When the third season dawned in which she had arrayed herself in this serge she decided firmly it must do for another sum- elf to a faithful and lor she had modest side street, and her skirt should be pressed and her jacket nd th duced from their over-generous At the sleeves the man shook hey were parted in the middle a seam which went to the elbo: sid? of which protruded ‘So she hied he onable German t a on orders tha rebound, sleeves r proporti ga by each two short years ago. when next they met their owner's view, © small, plain coat sle-ves, with only a m on the lower side of the sleeve, which Kked like a cuff, and ather an ad- i The tailor was radiant at So was the woman until coat into the bright sun. Then she saw that even the best of serge will fade in the course of three summers’ suns, and the sleeves, which had been turned upsids down, were several different col It was too late to go to the dyer then, as she could not run the risk of shrinking the d minished proportions of her garments. Dy: ing would have cost a sum which woutd have brought the expense of renovation to a point which would have made a hole in a ten-dollar bill instead of a five, as w actually the case, but it would have the suit new and fresh and mode every way and suitable for all occz : while as it was it had to be saved for rain: da and workadays. Anything that rth doing is worth doing well, and ot »mical woman has learned the nece y of finding whether her cloth is in ne dipping before she tries cutting {t ove Making over nowadays is an art in i self, and here in this city there are regu- lar companies organized for the purpos: of estimating on and making repairs to wo- men’s gowns. A gown which fs in the first place a good one and then is properly made over, and first properly dyed, if nead be, is as good as new—far bettsr than an inex- pensive new gown. But making over no longer means ripping a garment to pieces, having it dipped in some dye at home and then made up by some cheap seamstrss who is hardly clever at even her price. It means preserving the originally good lines of a well-cut garment, and having only the accessori>s in the way of sleeves, col- lar, etc., altered, and skillfully altered at that. Where the original cut is good enough to warrant making over a garment it is almost always quite safe to take it to scme humble little tailor who does r2bind- ing and cutting garments for women. He will charge quite enough, but smart tailors would make it cost almost as much as a pew gown. Rounded Corners the Latest. far the newest and jauntiest model this fall departs from the rounded cor- ners which promise to be seen so much. It is a short coat with sharp points. It fits quite tightly everywhere, but begins to flare out at the front bias into these two sharp points, which come a little below the waist. Then it has a high, rolling collar and two rather wide, pointed reveres, which seem to spring out a little, for they are not folded flat against the chest. They are long, too, coming haif way down the front of the coat. This model is seen in dark red mel- ton cloth with reveres of Persian lamb about the collar and bottom of the coat. It is needless to say it is not inexpensive when made and trimmed in this way. It has ap peared copied in bright biue melton with reveres of blue and white cloth. Yet even in this less elaborate model it is a high- priced coat on account of its novel and smart cut. The wide pocket flaps on the hips which were mentioned above are almost antique- looking, especially as the coats on which they are put usually have four large but- u on the postillion backs and large smok- ui gavel tes peal atten it eae Tows on the double-breasted fronts. A three-quarter- length green broadcloth, which in itself is not a modern color, is made up with two plaits in the back ornamented with four Jarge smoked pearl buttons, a double-breasi- ed loose front trimmed with two rows of these same buttons in staring evidence, a turn-down collar with unusually wide lapels and these wide pockets on the side. It fs of the latest models, yet it reminds one of the coats worn in plays scenes are laid in the latter part By seen OOSSSS DOSS Miss Juliet Corson, Founder of the New York Cooking School says: ‘‘I have used Cleveland's baking powder with entire satisfaction in the preparation of breads, biscuits and cakes; I find it specially desirable for hot breakfast and luncheon breads; the addition of a teaspoonful to a pound of flour will greatly improve the lightness and digesti- bility of plain pastry.” @leveland’s Baking Powder cloth with box front, loose comfortable sleeves and four large pear! buttons, two on each side of the double-breasted front, are worn all winter by women who drive a great deal and despise the effeminateness of a Victoria except for the purpose of paying visits. A covert is always an excellent in- vestment. It will make a fashionable coat for spring and autumn wear for at least two years, usually three, as {it never goes out of style, and on rainy days nothing makes so short a wrap, worn with a short skirt of cravanette or some of the new “rainy day” materials. coats for wear in the country in both sui mer and winter. Although it is pronoun more economical than fastidious, covert coats are often worn in mourning with sim- ply the black band sewed on the sleeve, such as an officer puts on his uniform coat when a comrade dies. Braided and War Trimm Fur is a popular trimming, as it was last year, and if one has carefully saved every bit of fur which has come into her pos- session in the course of her lifetime she will not find this so expensive, as almost every fur is popular just now. Braid and jet are very much used, and one sees onc: in a while one of the tan coats complet ly covered with braid. Sometimes braid is applied only to the front of the coat b low the waist line and to the sleeves, leay- ing the rest of the garment completely plain. Braiding seems to be a matter of in dividual taste, and one can have ft Dut on about as one pleases, the effect is usual- ly good. ‘The black silk coats of the summer are not by any means eclipsed. They seem to be as popular as ever, and one also sces many velvet coats, very often with togué to match, which will be used w little later for reception toilets. Velvet is another material which it pays to save. An elab- orately braided and beaded velvet coat which will be worn to church and for receptions as soon as the air grows chill was made up of as many pieces as Joseph's coat had colors. The owner was skillful with her needle, and after she had put her coat together she had only to de- vise a cunning manner of braiding which would cover the many seams in the gar- ment, and the result is beautiful to be- hold. Many women have quite given up sep- arate coats, being wedded to coats and skirts of the same color. They add a fur collarette and slip on a chamois jacket un- der the coat when bleak winds blow and feel far more comfortable in having a skirt to match their coats. To an econom- ical woman, made so by nature or force of circumstances, the advantages of this method of dressing are obvious. Were Medici, Now Military. Medici collars, which this year are called military on account of the spirit of the age, ate seen on almost all coats, although turn-over collars are still very much worn. Lapels are pui on all coats, whether the collar be high or low. Very often there is but one wide lapel, which points to the left, on a coat with a high collar. Sven old-fashioned ulsters have ap- peared, and if you have one with box front and moderate sleeves do not be afraid to get it out and wear it, having any neces- sary alterations made in minor detai) It must be long. however, as it is decree that there shall be no half-way meas- ures, that is, that long means almost trail- ing. MABEL BOYD. SES Women Students in Germany. From the London Telegraph. In laying down his office the outgoing rector of Berlin University sald that be- fore any further concessions could be granted to women wishing to study their preparatory education must be conducted on an entirely new system. He further re- marked that when this transition period had been passed, under the regulating hand of the government, the admission of ladte to lectures would be greatly factlitate and there was even a possibility of their being placed on an equal footing with their male colleagues. The new rector, Prof. Walde: in his inaugural address, confessed that he had formerly been a strong opponent of the “women's movement,” but entirely in the interest of women themselves, in the con- viction that the natural calling of woman to exercise the duties of a housewif: Lately, however, he had recognized that the movement was not an artificial one, and that economical conditions were compelling women to seek new pursuits. He perfect understood why they should direct their en- ergies to the medical profession, and re- marked that the present arrangements for aliowing them to follow a medical course at the university (the professor might have said of preventing them from following) are only temporary. After such pronounced views from two such eminent authorities, there can be little doubt that the question of the advancement of the higher education of woman, which has lagged somewhat of late, will occupy the official mind to a greater degree in the near future, and with some prospect of more kindly treatment. It is significant that the number of lady students increased from 212 in the year before to 352 last year. soe AT HER EXPENSE. er, She—“Oh, well, I suppose you believe everything you see in the Bible? He—“Except some of the dates in the family record.”—Boston Transcript. Mrs. Nagleigh—‘I suppose you are satis- fied now that you made a mistake when you married me. Mr. Nagleigh—“I made the mistake ail right, but I’m not satisfied.""—Brooklyn Life. “Wife—“What would you do if you had no wife to look after your mending, I'd like to know Husband—“Do? Why, could afford to buy new clothe: Figaro. in that case I —London Very few women think so much of their first husbands before as they do after mar- riage with their second.—Boston Transcript. ~ see AT HIS EXPENSE. He told her that it was impossible to find words to tell her how much he loved her. The next day he received a present of a dictionary.—Boston Transcript. “Does your husband ever go to church, Mrs. Badger?” Sec Son hinl goes quite semuinriy in the inter time. wiwhy does he go in the winter time and t at other times?” Belwell, you see, he generally has the quimsy when the weather is raw, and thinks he is going to die.”—Chicago News. “Does your husband ever say anything about his mother’s cooking?” It is the coat of all | < | Shopping Bags, a. ew York Sun Old prints show out in rew and popular Suise this season, and have developed a value apart from their soft tones aud apt illustration. Old-time Paris and London jcurnals with frontispie: ana fashion | piates worth having are bought up cagerly by the importers’ agents, especially those issues that were current as long ago as 180% and thereabouts. The prints are cut cut and let in on silk and satin surfaces + be used for decorative fancy work, or else fre framed tn burnt wood or stucco work frames, and hung singly or in medallion sroups of three and five, for walls and cab- iret adornment. Screens are made of them each panel composed of filustrations of a certain era, and one or two old prints are certain to be a main feature of the latest type of lamp shade. Amateur workers who have defi fingers and the wit and exactness to carry out their own designs make the prints In such novel ways as them best, but the majority get together the requi number of prints ahd carry them to some shade or screen maker who can introduce them tn the right position and set them off with appropriate surround- i a | ew York shopkeepers who are suspected of having ar accumulation of old-time books ani journals on hand are be: these days by an onset of old-print se and chests end stowaway trunks are ran- sacked for the especial sporting pictures or Say-tinted frontispiece that some member of the family may remember to have seen during a former search of effects. The early numbers of the first American fash- ion sheets and illustrated quarterlies and monthlies ari > being unearthed from long-packed boxes, and their most avaliable treasures made use of, but stray fragments of La Belle Assemblee, the Dublin Monthly useum and Ackerman’s Repository, if possessed of a print or two, go like hot cakes, while the purchasers eagerly pick out the pages they want and throw the rest away. Old brocades and rare pieces of tap- estry figured censpicuously In fete day gifts last reason, and this year the prints have favor. For work boxes, the stiff silk pan- els of framed opera bags and shopping bags, prints that are uncolored or of an all- over neutral tint are used, framed in with minute spangled or corded guimpe, or a fine outlining of embroidery that finisnes the edge of the cioth or silk where it is cut away, but does not attract too much notice from the print itself. These prints are the likenesses of noted belles and beauties, gen- erally in court dress, with elaborately coiff- ed hair and bejeweled arms and fingers a mantle, tippet or fan wives grace and dis- tinctiveness; or maybe. if it is a full-length likeness, the grand dame's delicately san- daled foot peeps out from skirts limp or skimpy or beflounced, according to the vogue of the time. A lamp shade of nasturtium yellow silk which is six sided, has two such old printa Jlet In on oppcsite panels and framed about with a darker tinting. Fringe a fix of twisted gold thread finishes the « Another lamp shade of the same shape has old prints 0? 18¢ iting a trio of London women in street dress. The ground- work of the iamp shade is delicate tvory. and there is an eyeletting of dark blu spangles framing the print. To modern-day eyes these fashionable dames of a ccontur ago look much as though they had walke: out in dressing sacques, put on over paja- mas, but their hair is so elaborate and their hats and parssols so bedizened as to ban- ish the thought. Another old print of an- cient date, meant for mounting en a fire screen, shows a group in evening dress, with scarfs round about their bare shoul- ders, medallions hanging from girdles that define the very short waist, and hend- dresses that suggest beruffied nightcans with a nosegay on the crown and another tucked in under the face frill, All of these prints have been colored by hand, in pretty blues, lavenders and greens, and the bright y low-quartered and extremely pointed O' out under gowns that trail in front and behind, and have to be held up to admit of the wearer's movements irited old prints representing fishermen, men, chariot drivers, hunters and wine bibbers are veed for decorating men's ac- cessories. By far the oddest prinis are these depicting fat old friars and homel peasants engaged in some religious coserv ance and those showing the women of con- ventional life vatering the primmest of prim green gerantums, or maybe sitting tdle in stiff-stilted attitude, with @ poll parrot near by or a very woodeny looking, night- capped baby in a cradle beside their chair. The fashion journals of those times seem to have neglected no phase of life, and the old-print enthusiasts have a wide fieid to cheose from. When making their fancy gifts and beicugings they can have some- thing to suit the domestic, the athletic, the aesthetic and the sentimentally inclined. Certain of these old book frontispieces. new destined for practical uses, have brought prices quite out of proportion to their size and original value, as is usual with anything that comes to be a fad. Those who have these very old periodicals in their possession can readily realize on them, for the proprietors of the gift shops and-knickknack and embroidery st stand ready to take them off their hands. The old-time pertrait silhouette is being put to service in the same way. Some of these beught from old house collections sell for a3 much as $5 and $6. They are used in sil- ver gray surfeces and outlined with black and gold guimpe, interspersed with span gles. By the way, parti-colored spangles in exaggerated form, as large as a l-cent piece, and of expensive quality set into the pattern of tapestry-cover embroidered couch cushions. They glitter and look handsome, but do away entirely h the Idea of soothing and comfort that 3 the primary reason for a pillow’s ex- istence. a Dressing for Luncheon Parties. From the Ladies’ Home Journal. Dressy woolen costumes of light silk and wool, cashmere, cloth or novelty goods are trimmed with bands of bead passementerie, embroidered mousseline or velvet, and made with a yoke or vest of bright silk or velvet, or of white cloth embroidered in gold. A striking yoke may b> made of cream gui- pure with silt spangles sewed over part of the pattern, as many of the dressmakers now arrange. Light gray, tan, army blue lavender, red and black goods are the co® ors used for thes? gowns. They are made vp with a round, slightly pointed or jacket- fronted waist for a young person, or with @ basque waist or Louis XVI coat for mat- rons. The latter style has jacket fronts, clcse-fitting and five inches below ths walst, with revers, high collar and small sleeves; back cut as a close basque, with “No; but he says things about my cook- | flat effect below the waist-line. Lace trims ing that his father used to say about his | the reck and wrists, and a jabot ornaments motaer’s cooking.”—Cincinnati Enquirer. “The doctors had a consultation yester- “What was the reeult?” oq understand family lawyers are now in secret session.”—Brooklyn Life. Gapacte SE SO EESTI “ff you want work read the want columns of The Star. ths throat, falling over the full vest of gauze, chiffon or lace ruffies or the ted one of embroidered satin. ndsome hat and light gloves is suitable for a noon hos! at when wrep [