Evening Star Newspaper, October 29, 1898, Page 19

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 29, 1898-24 PAGES. ——_—— 1898, Ww th kn c by the Int News Serv YORK. © fashio rok variety, cepted mebody ve and mad it walk crest- i Literary and , folds of opal-tinted chiffon—white and blue ise.) | | 7) fe nee of The Evening Staz | with a paste buckle. The two sidvs of * c " | waist are formed, cne of satin, the other October 28, 1598. | of jeweled lace. Little undulating Lasau ins come from lace, embroidered with pearls, diamonds pody knows. Wom- nd turquoises are cut in one with a har- the edict of Paris; | TOW pancl, which runs down the front of Lemon | the skirt to the ground. Narrow straps of pa iieiheg tie | black velvet passed through paste buckles clipped the win carried over the should the long’ sleeves dropping to show the top of the lace 3 erie 5a ime | arm. Somewhere at the left of eesetiing, -spmsvody: | miete (US eae aa apunen cecy sella eheweautne: wide skirt skin-tight about the hips, cov- | S0Sage #4 bunch ered it with flounces ond a, tall to it | sven*warnier and more: vivid in its direct to mop the floor. | Something, somebody | color contrasts Is a dress of black satin. aaiawaca mtsat deutsak cole whose bodice is of jetted and diamond-em- BONS Aired as anes) mente oleae AP | eu nar eaubiiceamecrerquntedionukloonraa fave us blood-red and black as the least | sing Black velvet bands are used as shoul- startling guise for the shy and retiring. | der straps, and below the shoulders hang Worth, the great firms, are credited, ac- | small puffs of the net-veiled silk. Upen Every autumn we have exhibitions, | the skirt the blood-red silk with its cover- < i ing of sparkling net appears in a broad of their models; we eX- | band, which in the back cur zh across see which of them find | the hips, while in front it falls straigh: on horse show, and settle down to | either side, defining the middle breadth. our winter's styles. About the waist a scrap of black velvet is We even imagine, if we think ourselves | tWisted. pice in discernment, that at the great open- Roses With Diamond Dew Drops. Hes. where medel is compared with model, | The velvet dresses bear silent witness in wwe can trace in the boldness and originality | their royal splendors to the visions of of one costume, or the daintiness and ele-| Court ceremonials and stately banquets paliery ther, the influence of the man’s | That have crossed the minds of tired strug- brain or the woman's brain at the head of | glers for dally bread. One of rose-toned the competing firms. velvet, whose pile is soft and deep In point ef fact, the great homses make | of fur, is mated with a dainty bodice of comparatively few of their own | it is the rarest thing for any woman to make a fashion. I BP the home ¢ novelty, beau and ch sliness in feminine attire, the live hundreds of obscure nen di of activ x« at w t effe his bec f the w the d modify. put without mean: fr iv th put designing ctivel work t rei the urtists gr examined, the and there you $s. Mod- non, to models and the hed in a garret is orld i are men. work over—and need much expur- » women crig- e in their own re is no explz om hand who create small pay work, they del Comes From. el idea strikes one of thes¢ buys such material as will in dres © some at man ilities of success, be buys it the designer, according to and importance of the sug- few dollars to sixty or lusive possession. The new urted may obtain little cur- the craze of the seasons are recei eat ring evening gown is lifted from the Ne firs business ver or the ved | years. A dress of lustrous gray silk is trimmed with ruches of pink mousseline de soie, set in two rows about the bottom of the ‘skirt, and in deep points above. The bodice and overdress are cut together in princess style and are of exquisite Brussels lace, the Overdress being of about three- quarters length in front, but reaching the bottom of the skirt behind. The corsage is edged with a pink ruche and is cut out in the back in a deep V. It gets a strong note of color from deep rose-pink velvet bow Some people have found in the turbulence and complexity of fashions a testimony to the increasing strencusness of life. The wo- man driven by ner pleasures is not at ease in a reposeful gown. It is out of harmony with her nature, which demands the com- plexities of frills and flounces and the end- less convolutions of passementeries and embroideries. If wearfed or sated, she must be spurred by the lash of sharp col- ors. Russian Laces and Fur. To. meet these real or imaginary necessi- ties we have this winter enormous quanti- ties of appliques, of’Russian laces worked with sparkling beads and of gold and bead- ed galloons. Many of the drésses now be- ing prepared for the horse show exhibit rich fur and galloon combinations. dress half directoire, half incroyable, is in rose-colored costume cloth. Three flounces adorn the skirt, one above anoth- er; these round off in front and are edged with sable fur. The collar and revers are importer s the won- der what the brain of the unknown man in a garret that to him came such dre of glowing cvlor or graceful form Man; a designer is proud of his ork as an artist with brush and palette, and haunts the approaches to the opera hous to see the grand dames pa from their carriages, much as fore his picture on the wall rose chiffon sewn all over with rose leaves, Brocaded in Golden Hues. One of a exh! week the most beautiful evening gowns suggests as its origi- sprinkled with diamonds. A dress of pale pink velvet 1s embroidered half-way down the narrow skirt with a garland of small pompadour flowers in steel, ecru and rose color. Below are two of a directoire model; the double bolero is trimmed with large buttons in dead gold. A long sash of black taffeta and an incroy- able cravat complete the costume, which, like so many others, derives its chief merit from the contrast of black and white. A skirt of royal purple cloth Is surmount- ed by a Louis XV coat of royal purple vel- vet with wide Tevers of green silk covered with Jet. Two large paste buttons adorn the coat behind. The waistcoat is of cream silk, upon which a flower design is ap- pliqued in tones of green heliotrope and purple. A heliotrope velvet toque Is to be worn, with trimmings of mink tails and white ostrich plum nator some one of distinctly southern tem- | pangs of Alencon point insertion inlaid and perament. The fabric employed is a per festooned at each side. The corsage is a Har quality of pale blue satin covered with | small velvet Bele ‘0 flower emUroldered ane pe The s S is long | Graped about the decolletage with a pin! 2 e The skirt, which is long | Chitron fichu, which fastens with a jeweled 1 around, forms a sbort train. It is bro- | huckle. The tight velvet ves come just caded irregularly with golden yellow chr: below the elbows and finish with lace frills. Sarnthemums. which diminish in number] The lace overskirts worn with some a in size from the bottom, leaving the | evening dresses surpass in airy extrava- er part plain. The low-cut bodice shows | gance of fancy anything seen’ in recent NOVELTIES IN NECESSITIES woman thus Yo manage her money affairs = she is saved a great deal of bother and Pretty Designs Shown in Pocket | #nxiety. If one carries much money in kx and Card Cases. her purse it is best to have the bills in large denominations, so that they do not : __| fill the pocket book uncomfortably. Few novelties are shown this | pecple, however, suffer from a plethora of pocket books and card | money; it is,’ unfortunately, for most nveniences are prized | Women just the other way. ret they have a long z they have not af Living. they like dainty re- From Harper's Bazar. " put what they have. | The love of living “near to nature” is in- pocket books of the | Stinct in every heart. But long confine- n white vellum, with co illness, or much pressing and ex- hased in gold, just under th in-door work may deaden our add fair io ivory These are nd silk, AZS $0 pop’ y skin ulways to t h one can pay xcket books and and heavily ys in order to nogram of the re dainty ric quee for memoranda and a cal- my lady's pocket book. « return to the beau- ular with our grand- most elaborate; or of colored bead: to carry them. cy of her who for friend ti the shops. L pocket ekeeping mirror finished be- This would t to offer a bri slue, green of the a, th favorit hly it »ooks and of of silk card cases it-of-door life. Or we may be with in-door occupations, or so engrossed with study, that we have no energy left for a brisk walk or row or an out-of-door game. Or perhaps we have foolishly grown to think out-of-door sports being old alligator @ seal being | ony suitable for boys or children. size and} Yet it is very certain that no normal or sid and | healthy woman should be ignorant of th3 regulated hy the | charm and advantage of out-of-door living. for the book or | There is no better or easier way to keep both body and spirit in good condition than a regular datly amount of out-of-door exer- cise. It is a deplorable mistake to consider walking only a means of reaching a near- by neighbor’s house or a convenient shop. Walking is much more than that. It is a means to obtain health snd beauty, and where no other form of athletic exercise is obtainable, that surely is within reach of all. To train our bodies and muscles in regular and scientific ways is not only in- teresting work, but makes us healthier wo- men, and health brings more enjoyment in in cel- are to and living; and that conduces to beauty, as well for change, | as strength of form and face, always. also to be | Women have sp2cial need of all the bodi- That w mark a suitable for Christ- ly health and Vitality they can get. pressing in door duties, of have our share, are The which most of ier and better ich ting and open up the entire nature to heaithful influences. who is going on @ | done when we can bring to them the fr:sh- ay readily be made | ened vigor we have gained rout of doors. ful pocket books | Keen Freezes and bright sunshine pene- Most women like | trate both the mental and physical being, i be a plain, serviceable affair, | eS trong, and not necessarily uiorned. For calling and the | Dose oasncnas and for any of the daintier uses | From the St. Loals Republle. more beautiful pocket book is ap-| Chiefly grenadine and limonsine ribbon As women seldom have pockets | are worn now. A great deal of emphasis is im venichs: ts bent dee ptttl ther | !aid on the manner in which you shape joks in their hands, they like to| your ribbon ends. A wide, crisp ribbon se which do not throw discredit | sash will have its ends cut in a series of s eieal oakasat five deep tooth-like indentations, while in may be fast-| Very many women cut their streamers in velt are a great convenience to | hatchet shape. A swallow fork or a bias shopping expedition or when | shear, so long the only orthodox courses Prag kes ‘These also may | in ribbon clipping, have been set aside. sizes and styles to suit any | and a lightning edge is what many a sash _ lend boasts. A lightning edge is just a se- : cessary for the woman who | ries of irregular Jags, like the course of has that great convenience of life, a bank | those thunderbolts the active American t, to carry about very much money | eagie grasps, and a good many sashes are urse. Bills and accounts are al-| snipped out to resemble a bellows point, ways more safely paid by check than | or carved at thelr terminus to convey the ctherwize, and where It 1s possible for a| idea of an Indian arrowhead, RECEPTION Gowns. One Made of Silk and Velvet or All Velvet a Rarity, From Harper's Bazar, There are many reception gowns that are made of cloth, others of cloth and velvet combined; but as yet no silk and velvet or all-velyet gowns have been exhibited. The costumes of cloth and velvet are most at- tractive, very graceful in design, and of Soft and harmonious coloring. One of the new gowns is of black broadcloth so fine that it looks lik the cloth known as doe- skin. It is made with a skirt that has a Shaped gore in front and a circular cut at the back, and it is either buttoned from the hem to the belt down the seam in the mid- dle of the back, or is buttoned part way. and has absolutely no trimming of an: kind. To wear with this skirt is a vel ceat made on the shape of a man’s cut- away coat, and showing at the throat and below the lower part of the coat a vest of flowered brocade. There is a high flaring colar, and this collar is covered with a pattern of silk machine stitching. Th? sleeves are almost Ught-fitting, cut flaring over the hands, and stitched to match the collar. The jacket is fastened with ancy rhinestone buttons. Another style of velvet ceat is cut like a cutaway, but the tails, instead of rounding, are absolutely square, and are trimmed across with a band of fur, The collar is square, made of fur, and can be worn elther standing or turned down. The coat opens over a most elaborate waistcoat of brocade, with a lace tir at the throat. This coat has also fancy buttons. Another style of cloth gowns suitable for reception wear is made with a long coat that has very full side pieces. It is so long that it reaches below the knee, but instead of being tight-fitting in front, the material ere over and is fastened at the left side urder a wide revers of white astrakhan trimmed with sable. There is a small vest piece of pale blu> satin on which there is an elaborate hand embroidery. The skirt is very odd. It is made of silk, with a heavy facing of velvet that goes the whole way up in front and extends half way up the skirt at the sid2s and back. This is a very clever thing, for an all-velvet skirt covered with a long cloth coat would be most un- comfortable to wear. This model is very effective in pale gray or in brown with bright cherry color. Wants Quickly Filled. At this season, when so many are seek- ing situations, and, on the other hand, so many seeking employes, it is of interest to know that advertisements under the classifications Wanted Help and Wanted Situaticns are inserted in The Star at a charge of 15 cents for fifteen words. _ The merits of good lemonade should be better appreciated. For all those troubled with biliousness and sick headache acid drinks are especially wholesome. Lemon- ade is improved for many tastes by adding one tablespoonful of lime juice to a quart of lemonade. The unkind father’s kick; or, the consoling thoughts of the “best”? man during his downfall: By She loves me not; loves me, Hat ha! She loves me! —Fliegende Blatter. HOUSEHOLD HINTS —_->——_ A table should always be set to please the eye as well as the appetite. While no spten- dor of service can éntirely compensate for inferior and Badly cooked viands, yet it must be remembered that even excellent food slovenly served will seem less succu- lent than simpler food served with the ac- cessories belonging to dainty living. A thick silence cloth 6f flannel or cotton flan- nel should cover the table under the linen to protect the polisted surface of the table fromr the hot -dishes end to deaden the sound. The table linen should be as fine as the purse allows. In the center of the table a low jardiniere containing flowers or delicate ferns is generally placed. If lamps are used, place so they do not inter- fere with the guests’ range of view. On each side of the centerpiece there should be low dishes containing celery, olives, rad- ishes, salted nuts or bunbons. There may aiso be a pepper castor containing white pepper and péprika, or these may be in- dividual or one for every two, as preferred. ‘The soup spoon, fish knife, and, in fact, all knives or spoons to be used previous to the dessert course should be placed at the right of each place and forks at the left, having the handles just reaching the edge of the table, the knife with the sharp edge in and the fork turned down. A giass for water should be placed at the right of each plate at the point of the knife, and an individual salt cellar at the left upper corner. The napkins, folded square with the initial or monogram of the hostess at the top, is simply laid on the cloth in front of the guest. It usually holds an oblong slice of bread cut rather thick if soup is the first course. Where oysters or clams are served they are arranged on chopped ice on their plates, with a piece of lemon in the center. In houses where there is an expert butler dinner is generally served a la Russe, the host and hostess being relleved of all care in serving. If, however, the dinner is served by a waitress the host does the carving, and all the chief dishes of the various courses are set before him, save the soup, the salad, the dessert and ‘the coffee. The soup may be brought in in plates from the butler’s pantry or placed in a tureen be- fore the hostess. In either case, the wait- ress usually places the soup at the right hand of the guest. All plates ure removed at the left hand, and as much of the ser- vice as possible ts given there, as less likely to interfere with the comfort of the person served. Exception is made, however, for the pouring of the water, which should be at the right. Large dishes like platters should be carried in the hand in passing. white small dishes should be carried on a tray. Fish of some kind usually follows the soup, though it is not considered as necessary as formerly. After the salad course the table should be cleared of cas- tors, salts and all dishes except those con- taining flowers, fruits, bonbons and cakes. The table ts then brushed, dessert silver placed at each cover, and the dessert before the hostess. who serves it. Ices are usually served with forks made for that especial purpose. After the fruit or nuts, the finger bowls are served on a plate with a doyley, and, lastly, the coffee is brought in. Mothers strugeling with the problem of how to dress baby simply, hyetenically and suitably for the changing ‘seasons, will wel- come a new sanitary suit, the outcome of a California mother’s thought and experi- ments of how best to care for her own lit- tle ones. The garment, which is a combina- tion of waist and @rawers in one piece, is made of shrunk flamoei in white or natural wool, and is adapted to infant wear, from the putting on of}short clothes up to the trouser and frock period. The form at the bottom is that of the baby drawers com- monly seen In fublyr or muslin. This is car- tied up to the neck, fitted at the arm seam and buttoned over each shoulder. The pat- tern is in one pieee, with square Inserted at the back, bias seam and brought forward and buttoned at the front, giving the form of litle breeches\that close around the stocking just above the knees. There is a shoulder facing which extends under the arm and makes firm a stocking supporter attachment. The shoulder fastening al- lows of changing the garment without un- dressing the child, and also of lengthening by letting out the button. Under the little garment may be ‘worn a sleeved shirt, heavy or light according to the season, and a nether ga-ment {f necessary, while over it all that will be found essential may be ens kilt or woolen dress or frock and pina- ‘ore. The most delicate way to prepare a squab for an invalid or convalescent {s by broll- ing elther directly over a clear fire or wrap- ped in paper. Split the bird down the back, taking pains not to break the sac which holds the entrails. Wipe carefully and flatten in the same way a chicken fs prepared. Salt and pepper. If you decide to broil the squab in an envelope—and this 1s the approved way—spread a sheet of le- gal cap or other large paper with olive ofl and tuck the squab Into the case, turning the edges over several times and pinching together close to the meat. The paper will char long before igniting, while the con- tents will be basted in its own juices. The time required for broiling will be from eight to ten minutes. When the paper is well browned the bird will be found done to a juicy, delicate and digestible turn. Serve in its envelope, which keeps it hot and julcy to the moment of eating, and accompany {t with a little water cress and a thin slice of hot buttered toast. Clam mousse continues in favor for the 12 o'clock breakfasts, on which club women dote. An excellent rule calls for two and two-thirds cups of clam juice, one and one- third cups of whipped cream, and a little celery salt, depending upon the saltiness of the clams. Thoroughly serub about forty clams, then put in a kettle with two cups of cold water and cook antil the shells open. Take out the clams, strain the lMquor through a plece of cheesecloth, cool and freeze to u mush. When that consistenc is reached stir in the whipped cream and freeze five minutes longer. Serve in glasses, A common fault with the usual way of cooking scrambled eggs is that they are cooked so hard as to be indigestible. This may be obviated by aliowing a tablespoon- ful of milk or water to each egg, cooking the mixture only until it is creamy, and stirring meanwhile with a fork. Strained tomato may be substituted for the water er cream, and the mixture served on hot buttered toast. If there is any doubt about the perfect and absolute dryness of a cellar floor, tar should be spread over the entire surface end then covered with concrete. A damp or foul cellar is the root of numberless household evils. There can be no pure air in the house if the cellar is impure. A high stool or chair will be found a great convenience in the kitchen, enabling the housewife to sit down while doing work that must be done on a table. -—-— New Picture Frames. From the Philadelphia Press. Black moldings with black mats are the newest and best liked for the platinum finish pictures, especially photographs, anv the oval form, is perhaps considere? ‘he most elegant. For an ultra novelty the “shadow box” style, as it is termed, consists of a double molding, the ihner broad and but scarcely indented. This is incased under the glas: while the second |and narrower molding stands out considerably and gives it the | effect of greater’ depth. Broad black frames sometifies ‘have a narrower inner line of gilt wHere the background of the picture is very dark, and even a color is permissible in ‘fancy pictures. Chic and odd frdmes, especially for lit- tle ideal pictutes,' celebrities or dancing figures, have Florentine edges of gilt with a line of color instie, and the mats in a dull art shade, cut’ out in rococo or con- ventional shapes with the picture and traced in a fine line of white at the outline. —_——_-e+____ A Shrewd Woman. From the Boston Trauseript. When Jenerby comes home late he re- ceives a lecture from Mrs. J. of such length and strength that he is pretty certain to Stay out later the next night. When Hol- lister, on the contrary, arives at his domi- cile at an untimely hour, Mrs. Hollister smiles sweetly as she says: "How fortu- nate, Charles! To be sure, you are a little late for dinner, but you are in admirable time for breakfast. You must be hungry, dear, so I'll set about getting it at once. Next evening Hollister reports at an early hour. Mrs. Hollister understands man na- ture much better than Mrs. Jenerby does. + 0+ All Washington an Audience. The Star’s “Wanted Help and Situations” columns are carefully read by thousands daily, Fifteen cents pays for fifteen words. THE ART OF SPINNING. In Houscholds Long Ago It Wa Important Accomplishment. From the New York Tritune. Among the more important of the early industries was the “honorable and queenly are of spinning.” The industry was first introduced in this country by the Dutch and English and afterward by the Irish. Spinning matches were organized by the young women and the products of their wheels bestowed upon their pastor, at Whose house they spun. The impiements for spin- ning flax and reeling thread were of the most primitive description. The earliest used was the distaff and spindle, but an tm- provement on this method was the hand wheel. Later the treadle was attached to the wheel, enabling the spinner to sit while at work, and from this spinning wheel have’ been evolved the spinning jenny and the host of mechanical inventions that fill the factories of today. The first of the many processes by which the flax wus converted into the finest of linens was the culture of the plant. It was of rapid growth, sown in April or May, and was harvested in August. It was carefully sown and when four or five inches high thoroughly examined and often weeded by the women and children, who worked with- out shoes for fear of injuring the delicate plant. They labored facing the wind, that “the breeze might favor the downtrodden plant and help it to rise again.” When ripe it was pulled up by the roots and “rippled” to remove the capsules containing the seeds. The “rippler” was a large comb fas- tened on a plank. When the flax. was “dew-rotting™ process was used to destroy the glue. It was placed on the grass or in the waters of a clear brook; afterward it was “broken” and “skutched” to remove the bark and stalks. The next and last process was “hackling” or “heckling.” This straightened the flax, freed it from tangles and brought it by frequent “hacklings” to the requisite fineness. This was done by a primitive machine called a “hackle” or “heckle,” and was the work of the women of the household. The rippler, breaker and scutcher were cumbersome and heavy, and were used by men in barns and outho: These latter instruments have almost entirely disap- peared, but the hackle fs still found in an- cient garrets, accompanied by spinning wheels and reels. The hackle is an immense comb, with long iron teeth placed perpen- dicularly on a rough board. The fineness of the flax depends upon the number of hacklings it receives by combs of increasing delicacy of make. The opera- tion of hackling required much sk{ll and dextrous handling, and upon it depended to a great extent the value of the result. In the hands of a poor hackler the best of flax would be converted entirely into tow. After the flax was hackled it was careful- ly sorted according to degrees of finen This process was “spreading and drawing.” dry the rotting or After twenty or more manipulations the fiber was ready for the wheel and wrapped in a soft ball about the spindle, and the graceful spinrer turned the flax fiber into long, even thread. z. While spinning the threads were moisten- ed with water from a little bone cup that hung on the wheel, and as the flax was twisted into thread’ by the movement of the wheel and the deft handling of the spin- ner the yarn as it was formed was wound on the bobbin, which was a roughly form- ed wooden spool. Afterward the bobbins were placed on the reels for the thread to be wound into skeins. The threads for knitting were fastened with threads run- ning across the skein to hold the strands in place. On the more primitive reels the strands had to be counted before the threads were placed on them, but a later invention was the clock reel, a simple mechanism that clicked when the requisite number of strands were wound on the reel, and the busy housewife, instead of counting each thread, would stop turning the wheel and put on the cross-thread when the clock reel clicked. The skeins wer then transferred from the wheel to the “swift” and wound into balls for knitting. The hanks of yarn needed twisting back and forth many times to take the wiry feeling out of the thread. Where linen was to be woven the bobbins filled with fine thread were taken from the wheel and placed on the wooden hand loom Before the blue and white checked coun- terpanes of our grandmothers were woven the yarn was bleached to a dazzling white- ness and part dyed. The yarn to be bleach- ed was dipped in strong soapsuds or but- termijk and laid upon the grass. This had to be repeated many times before the thread was white. The yarn to be dyed blue was dipped in big stone pots of indigo, always a part of the colonial household equipment. The preparation of dyes was one of the household industries. The house mother was skilled in coloring, and as a great many shades could be obtained from one color a single dip of the flax in the blue pot would transform the skein into a tint like the sky. A day’s submersion gave a deep blue, and a week’s repose at the bottom of the pot made the flax as blue as the indigo Itself. Flax was not easily dyed. There were but two stains that were effica- cious in coloring {t—blue, from indigo, and red, from oxide of tron. The hand looms in colonial houses for weaving flax and wool were of the most simple and clumsy construction. They are seldom found in their old haunts, though the weaving room, usually attached to the kitchen, is sometimes seen, bearing the old name with new uses. The linen when taken from the loom was brown in color, requir- Ing the long, tedious process of bleaching to bring it to its final exquisite whiteness. This process was called “crofting,” an En- glish term, from croft, a field. It was some- times called grassing. The skillful housewife first boiled the lin- en in slaked lime, and then in an alkaline lye for eight hours at a time, and then laid it on the grass for a few days. The boiling and grassing were repeated often, and then the linen was soaked in buttermilk, boiled and grassed again, to destroy the acids of the buttermilk, which whitened the linen, but were injurious to the fiber. There were no less than fifty operations for bleaching a “parcel of light linens.” From the time the flax was sown until the linen was ready to fashion into garments fifteen or sixteen months had passed, and the flax had undergone more than a hun- dred different manipulations. The Mnen was made into fine embroidery and lace- trimmed caps, capes, aprons, short gown underwear and gloves, also ‘sheets, pillow cases and “board cloathes,” or tablecloths. The valuable outfit was freely sprinkled with lavender and rosemary and laid a in the carved oaken chest, often making wedding and household outfits, lasting from generation to generation, and happy and proud today is the possessor of some of grandmother's “homespun.” — = Dresses for At-Home Parties. From the Ladies’ Heme Journal. For at-home dancing parties young ladies are expected to be suitably gowned, which ™means In thin gowns of organdy, net, chif- fon, etc., over silk linings, or light silk Bowns with belts and sash ends of velvet edged with tiny frills of black or white mousseline. Silk at seventy-five cents a yard is pretty, and would b> economical, 4s : answer another season for a lin- ing. White, pink, turquoise, ght yellow ard lavender are the favorite evening col- ors in the order named. White forms a convenient dress, as different accessories may be used with it and the skirt worn with odd waists. If merely a looker-on, a light dress or waist, made high in the neck and long-sleeved, in silk or chiffon, or a light-weight veiling trimm@d with’ three gered ruffies to the knees, each edged with velvet ribbon; blouse waist finished with two ruffles around the low neck and a re- Tovable yoke of white lace over pink, or of Pin-tucked taffeta, with collar, belt and sh ends of the silk, would be appropriate. Another suitable toilet is a black sik or nice white wool skirt, with a full gathered waist of light-colored chiffon having collar and sash of silk or velvet. One more ad- vanced in years might wear a light waist and black silk skirt or an entire black silk costume with lace yoke or vest. SS “Pale and Interestin; From the New York Herald. You must be “pale and interesting” dur- Ing the coming winter if you wish to be swell. The buxom, rosy checked girl is passing away with the summer, and in hér place we will have the slender and pale faced maiden with only two “ripe red lips” end “luminous eyes” to relieve the almost unnatiral pallor of her face. Whether it is because she wishes to show her sympathy for her sweetheart or brother who has just returned from the war, all pale and thin, by becoming pale and thin herself Is not ‘known. Suffice to say that the swell girl has left off “merely touching the rouge paw to ker face.” and already we see the new beauty. the pale and interesting creature—ané sit is irresistible. | | Do not use a baking powder of doubtful quality when, for a few cents more, you can buy leve Baking land’s Powder a pure cream of tartar powder with a record of 28 years’ use among the best housekeepers. RUGS FOR THE BATH ROOM, These Very Useful Articles May Be Made by Little Ones. From the Boston Post. Mothers very often sigh for some wherewith to occupy the restless fingers of their little girls on ri days when p-ay out of doors cannot be thought of and | in the evenings when the littles ones crave for something to do before bedtime comes Why not set them to rugmaking? Little six-year-olds in elementary schools love this occupation, which Is worthy ef an introduc- tion Into the home circle, with its pleasant voluntary tolls, The materiais needed are knitting cot- ton and two knitting needles, The cot- ten is to be. cut into uniform lengths of about three inches. To cut it an ¢ lent plan ts to wind the cotton upon a rcund ruler, then with a sharp pair of scissors to cut the thread along the whole length of the ruler. To begin the knitting, an uneven num ber of stitches is cast on and four or ft rows knitted plainly; then on the second stitch of the row to be fringed one of the hing cel- = UNCONSCIOLS Man is the Best Judge of Woman Dress. criics, From the Lad There Pictorial is no better critic of wo: lengt&s of cut cotion is knitted in. The length is simply doubled, and, being place? end to end, the loop so formed in the center is taken along with the stitch in kn‘tting. All the even stitches take a piece of cot- ton fringe on this row. The next row is knitted plainly; then com jother fringed Tow. Thus the rows continue, one fringed ene plain, until the strip is long enough If this strip is knitted in white cotton 1: next strip may be in red cotton, the ec alternating until the requisite number of strips are knitted, when they are sewed together to make a very handsome striped cotton mat. This method of knitting the fringe on every alternate row makes a heavily fringed, pretty durable rug, very warm and comfortable cut of the bath comes of great for the feet on As it is absor| rvice, especitlly in a Fou where there are many children to bathe. If the rug is desired lighter than this, so making it easier to wash when soiled, the rows of cotton fringe may be placed op every fourth row instead of upon every second one. To vary the patterns in different rugs the white strips may be knitted wide and the red ones narrow and vice-versa. Again the alternate rows of cotton lengths may be knitted red and white, this plan making an excellent mat, or perhaps a white rug with a red border may be liked. Little fingers grow expert at this work, and little heads get very interested in it. The knitting not only gives finger prac- tics and profitable employment of time, but cultivates the faculties of patience and attention no less than it teaches the duty of using up all scraps of time. —_—_—_--— CAPS AND ne APRONS, The Housemaid Should Alway Trim When on Dut From the Philadelphia Press, There is nothing more important, so far as the elegance of a house is concerned, than to have the maids neatly dressed. It is fatal clothes, or part of them, at home. If this is the case, there will be a dreadful lack of clean aprons and the cotton dresses will be made to do duty for a fortnight. All laun- dries will take servants’ washing at a cer- tain sum per week. In the country one can often get this done cheaply, especially if the maids will wash their own collars and cuffs and caps. In a \own it costs more, but it is money well spe: t. 1 is imperative that a inaid should have a clean print dress every week, and that it be well starched or it will not keep clean for any length of time. The cook, espe- cially in a town, should wear a somewnat dark print, a deep blue galatea being the best. This’ looks very nice with a large holland a; on and white collar and cap. ‘or i .ing wear large holland aprons are the i st, with bibs and straps over the shoulders. A black stuff gown should be worn in the afternoon, with turnover col- lav and cuffs and a very large white apron. if there is any demur about the caps, it will be worth the mistress’ while to provide them herself. The best caps are made cf frills of embroidered cambric, which draw up with a tape and can be pulled out flat to be washed and ironed. These are easily made, and all fear of the malds appearing with a dirty piece of Jace gathered up on their heads 1s avoided. It must be under- stood that when the housemald is out a the cook has to answer the door she wears the same sort of costume. = ee ee Bicycle Skirts in the’ Wind. From the New York Press. An observing woman, who rides the bi- cycle in all kinds of weather, has this to Bay about the tendency of skirts to blow about and distress their owners: “I have been noticing skirts a great deal lately and trying to discover why some even when they are narrow still blow out so much, while others, which are often wider, sit so well. I believe I have made a discovery. I don’t think the width has near- ly so much to do with it as the position of the rider's knees. “One must keep her knees quite close to- gether, or the skirt, instead of falling straight down flat, will billow out and make no end of drapery for the wind to frolic with. This ts rather a difficult thing to ex- plain, and seems hardly correct, but to prove it a girl should notice the different skirts on bicycles and try herself some time when she is riding and see at once what a difference the position of the knees makes.”” 3 } | to let domestics wash their | } than a man who gives his mind to the sub. Sect. A dozen or more considerations warp and bias one woman's opinion of an>ther's costume, bat a man judges broadly. It 4 the general effect upon which he decides, ard he files off at no such tangents as Dlexion, or an irre ar style ot coiffure, or the age of the ubjoc in ar. riving at his decision on feminine attire Kut then men do not always mak. the dress of the cpposite sex a careful study and to one man whe can differen be tween passementerie and galloon scienti- fically explain how one bodi rem arother in ory. there are could not tell a last years gown fr three years out of date, or a toque from bonnet. And, as a rule, it is j h dividuals waose opinions are t t and criticisms most frequent on th | ments of their womankind. A mar stamp will remorselessly denoun Wife's costume as a “ra or t | sister he wishes she would not ¢ | that “drabby thing.” He will grum)l j his wife looks “all to pieces’ | form of mascul criticism—and an | spirits by tolling her that her very latest | Bown does not ~0k right someher yet by no manner of means c he | what is amiss or what he doe | about it. The who will say ¢ | “that gown unbecoming | iicut.” may i | with his fussiness, never- ] theless carries weight It is ainst the criti who erumble | they know rot why. that women rebel And they are certainly the most alt {to please. They will come home a” | scribe such a ore to wiul'y well in some greeny arrangement which, on their womankind making qua‘ntanee | with it, proves to be muddy blue in a | cheap material, while a gown that has cost | infinite pains to turn out and is thoroughly | fresi as to design and material, these ex- traordinary people unhesitatingly denounce as hidgpus. Yet even this type of critic is rot aliogether invaluable. He is always outspoken, and he never has to be con- sulted, since being avowedly without knowledge on the subject of woman's ‘ess, but only one of those provoking people wno recard it is sufficient that they | “know what they like and what they don’t like,” he can not be expected to offer any advice whatever until he the effect produced. NURSERY, THE It Should Be Most Cheerfa in the House. the Women’s Home Companion. The nursery ought to be the prettiest and mest cheerful room in the house, with am- ple receptacles for toys, some attractive pictures and a pleasant outlook from the windows. A small aquarium is an object that gives great enjoyment, and it is easily managed. I prefer a tightly drawn, well- acked-down tapestry carpet upon the floor, \if ic can be taken up and steam-cleaned | semi-annually, and properly cared for be- tween whiles; for children are always trip- ping over rugs and hurting themselves For the reason that sharp angles furnish dargerous points to fall against, tables and chairs should have rounding ‘The first considerations are health, safety and cemfort, after that, prettiness. | for running about is most there are many fall and win Room edges, Clear space outdoor exercise is an impossibil jon these days it is well to put on the little j one’s bonnet and coat, open the windows for half an hour, and invite him to a brisk game that requires plenty of running and jumping. Provide a low table and chair, where he can sit at ease with his toys, magining himself lord of a little realm. This conceit {s one that children delight in and it is a very harmless delusion—not al- together wit it opportunt for whole- some lessons in the way of hospitality and kindness to others. AT see HER EXPENSE. “And remember, Bridget, there are two things I must insist upon—truthfulness and obedience.” “Yis, mam, and when you tell me to tell the ladies you're out when you're in, which shall it be, mum?”—Yonkers Statesman. Maud—“I'm a little uneasy in my mind. Ned asked me to marry him, and I told him I migat some day. Now, would you cali that a promise? Marie—“No: I should cal! it a threat.” Puck. “Poor Mavd! She was cruelly deceived when she married old Gotrox.” Didn't hs have any money?” Plenty of It: but she has learned that he ten yeats younger than he said he was.” ruth. Sue—“The men are all alike!” Gertrude—“Never say, die, Sue. A ma unlike all the rest may smile on you yet. —Boston Transcript. Mrs. Tiptop—“I am sorry you were not at my reception last evening.” Mrs. Highup (coldiy)—“I received vitation.” Mrs. Tipto, (with affected surprise)—"In- deed? It must have miscarried. I had among my guests three foreign counts.” Mrs. Highup—"So that is where they were? I desied to engage them last even- ing to wait on the table at our theater party supper, but the employment agent told me they were out.”—New York Weekly. +o -______— AT HIS EXPENSE. no fn- “Pearson's mind's all gone. He smokes “Yes, but his mind was all gone about ye Lady of the House (to Bore, who gener- ally Naat as ae is a % gO — ping)—Won't you let me ring for a little refreshment for you?” Bore—“I think I'll take a little something just before I go.” Lady of the House—“Ob, then, do have it now!”—Punch. the time he began.”—Chicago Record. Young Mrs. Styles—“Men are so different after marriage Miss Singleton—“So I've heard; but why do you say it now?” Young Mrs. Styles—“Why, at my request, Charles willingly gave up going to the war, but, if you'll believe it, he shows no in- clination to give up his club for my sake.” —Boston Transcript. “I don’t believe,” said the millionaire’s wife, regretfully, “that our son-in-law has any business ability.” “Business ability!” exclaimed the millien- aire. “Huh! He married our only daugh- ter, didn't he?”—Chicago Po: — + oo Wants Quicniy Filled. At this season, when so many are sesk- ing situations, and, on the other hand, so many seeking employes, it Is of interest to know that advertisements under the classifications Wanted Help and Wanted Situations are inserted In The Star at a charge of 15 cents forefifteen words,