Evening Star Newspaper, September 10, 1898, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR, y HIVE SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 1898-24 PAGES. @opsrizht, 1598, by the International Literary and s worn News Service.) The Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. trimmed with white satin : : enterie, cE RK, September s, 1838. z ; i EN FON Ee Seb ene ee dress which daringly an- x & dresses, five are of shicn of the coming “sal he little dressmaker. is a sweeping cloth skirt of green “Such a try material,” objected the nal and a coat of smoke bite, curious- pride. ngthened in appearance, with its cut- ee i ; and long slope behind. At the » You can have white silt mull or— | threat is a lace and chiffon boa. The hat for September. At |is a fine green chip trimmed with superb I ever saw the bride | black ostrich plumes; under the brim is a yupch of carmine roses. The hat is not three cornered, but it recogaizes the fact that, conceivably, a hat might be so. metimes ornamental dust coats are seen with such gowns. One t nlue and white alpaca ha thered from ETA Gs ther. | Which f a long, full cap citully piesa «thie | ruched and drawn to the fivure in front and ca al dowers—this | with broad biue ribbons. x ar ged them wore apelin eae | Bena ‘Trousseaux. lor. The bridegroom came, I remember, on | _ Of dresses in TE TE CEE. OUSS EAU Ky the noon train. There was no servant kept |® Pretty tea gown Js of a soft green mous- Si that i betde zécers 4 all the | S¢line de sote, princess ped, and opening ‘hax ‘ e en the |i? front over a narrow tablier of white & cee ridegroom’s | Chiffon inc “with cream lace. A chif- efore the time | fon vest slopes down to meet the tabifer her serve the waist. Green satin revers, cov- . g round red with white chiffon frills, turn buck 2 frock quit it were | from the vest at ma big, picturesque who had been | The neck is slightly open in front; it was a prett | transparent sleeves are of w Ls: here called in the a vie. 3 | A Second tea gown !s of pink Itberty silk the veiling dress like? coat of-eream lace, which ; pees to the ground. The hem of be interested,” said the aichtal Mente eenCe™ “it was not in this sea- |. A huge bow of crbmimed | mith = ttay yEAt to the pI prink'ed light t of thin B oar | on dress suitable for wear un- | 1 the autumn is of green sat- with jal Go t we % dresses made robe of whit ! i itice work, and th th fichu draperies upon the bust in at » white satin vest he sleeves a ruffl tint of of green straw. First at Home. n gown form: s the Por the An autumn rece ion of old deep © le taffeta. A Wk ecg dark blue of the tt ed by a spiral de- sign In narro gold cording. The vest Is of ed silk, and the waist three plaited ruf- + white silk belt lasp of solid gold wa good ¢ of Ss. arlet for trimmings nl flowe will toire hat brim which yout nished at the blos- hair with the flowers Pretty Yous for Maids. The bridesmaids at a recent wedding wore white mus dresses with insertions of 1 Their sushes were of turauvise blue ulle and their hats of white straw, trim- med with white ostrich plumes and blue chiffon. In another instance, the brides- maids’ wns were of pale, striped Chine silk, and they wore hats covered with roses. Bome heavier dreses were of shot silk in of mauve, with yoke and sash + chiffon. These were accompanied by large black picture hats with big bows of white tulle in front, and roses clustered under the brim. White serge ts a favorite material for an j do autumn going-away gown. Rows of braid and satin are appropriate trimmings. The coat bodice may have a basque cui in tabs, and the vest may be of white lace and chif- fon. Black and white straw hat with white Foses and ostrich plumes. I have lately seen examples of both grey poplin and grey bengaline. The poplin trav- @ling dress had revers of old rose fleurs de turns sharply up in front and is caught to crown by true-lovers’ knot of m« . from which rise aigrettes of nrod. Jetted or sequined is the pity; they have TO PRESS YOUR DRESSES. Importance of the Finishing 1 a Feminine Costume. Louis Globe-Democrat. uch (o From the St © matter how carefully made or how hioned a garment may be, its ntire good effect is ruined if it is not care- fully and correctly pre Few amateurs realize the importance of this, the finishing touch of tailor-made perfection; or, if they app: te its importance, they are un- able to cope with its requirements, The irons should be neither too hot nor too heavy, and both sides of each seam, from the sewing line to the edge finish, should be well pressed down before any at- tempt is made to open the seams flat. This presses the finishing and saves the risk of it showing through. If the dr is of very thick or very springy cloth or serge, a damp cloth should be ‘aid over the closed seam and the pressing done through it, leaving it slightly damp for the last pressing. After both sides of the closed seam have been pressed, each one may be laid open and pressed flat with a cooler iron, care being taken not to stretch the length of the seam; and the bust of the dress (each side of the top of the darts and a little above them) should be opened, and great pains taken to press the extreme tops of the darts quite flat out; but the same pains must be taken not to stretch the dress, at that part, either down or across. The very end, only, of the tron should be used there. The sleeve seams should be pressed, first closed and then open, and a sleeve board is certainly an advantage. Different contriv- ances frequently take its place—a small cricket bat, a broom handle or a rolling- pin being the-favorite; but care should be taken that neither bat nor broomstick has FASHI NISBORN ON ETTER, been painted, and that the rolling pin has never been used, or the heat will produce bad result Pressing should always be done on four thicknesses of wooden stuff—soft cloth or a blanket covered with a strong muslin cloth. The fron should be well cleaned and not too large or heavy. Tailors usé a nar- row iron, which runs along the scams; and women who make their own dresses would be wise in having so helpful a commodity. All fabrics may be froned in the same way as woolens, unless they have a pile, when every care should be taken not to flatten i crepons come under the same head ag pile fabrics, and should be pressed in the same way. Sik glazes and scorches very quickly should therefore he press- ed in the same Way, and with an fron that is light in weight and rather cool, and, in- deed, it is a mistake to use hot trons in pressing. Fugitive colors which change to brown when heat 1s applied to them. are very ter- ing, as it appears that the garment has been spoiled, but, if the lining has not been scorched, it will generally be found that the color comes back when the dress {s quite cold, Nearly all light blue-grays, Stone color, lilac, pale heliotrope and the like are fugitive; it takes three or four hours before the color comes back to them. A safe test Is to try a piece of the goods under the iron the day before and you can then judge how much heat it will stand. It is not advisable for home dressmakers to use the damp cloth too largely In press- ing. With tailors, whose work is largely upon serges, tweeds and firm woolen cloths, wet treatment is best adapted to the re- quirements of the material, and is made one of the special features of thelr work, both in the te finish of all seams and edges, and in the skillful manipulation by which they impart form to a garment; while the large majority of dress materials re so comparatively light and thin that Wet treatment would injure color, finish and texture, causing them to draw ‘up and look rough and cockled, and entirely de- stroying the delicate appearance of the sed and the band hooked securely betore the is examined and the exact 1 places determined. Tils done, the best means of finishing it is to baste a narrow hem all around and press it firmly all around. The binding braid or velvet if put on and lower edge length ir put on then entirely by hand and then final- ly pressed once more will be much more ily removed after it has become worn than if stitched on and sewed in a hem u will be surprised at the smart tail effect of a skirt so finished when compared With one done by the usual time-saving dress' method, and the work of re- ned by more than half, aa WOMEN IN SHIRT SLEEVES, They Have an Advantage Over Men, Who Must Wear Coat From the Phila lelphia Times. The summer fs practically over, and the shirt waist has ruled supreme. When this useful and pretty garment was first intro- duce the dames of fashion frowned upon it and it was voted vulgar. But once—and maybe twice—in a century the women strike a sensible streak and resolve to have what t want in spite of what “they So they clung to the shirt waist and are happy. Now, this isn't a fashion ar- ticle, and is not going to tell how the waists are to be cut next summer. It is a loud protest from the men who, in a large degree, furnish the money to buy the pretty shirt waists for wives and daugh- ters and who now find themselves barred from indulging in the same comfort. Of course, man has his neglige shirt and his belt and his tan shoes, and pretends to be cool in summer, but he has to wear a coat, and that spoils it all. No coat has been devised that does not rest on the shoulders and gird under the arms, and, while no man notices these features in win- ter, they become very apparent in sum- mer. In his oftice he shows what he thinks of his coat by taking it off, but on the street he must don it and be miserable. “And it is all owing to the women,” de- clared a well-known society man.’ “See how anxious a man {s to get Tid of his coat and vest in lawn tennis, golf or any out- door sport. The women make no objection to their appearance on such occasions, but if a man makes his appearance on the street In a shirt waist the women raise a terrible shout of scorn. It is the basest ingratitude, because it was the men en- couraged women to wear the shirt waltst, when the old dames frowned on ft. I have come to the conclusion that I will wear my shirt waist on the street, and If others will follow my ample, we'll down this social ostracism and be comfortable.” When he was asked when he expected to mi debut in his shirt sleeves, he ‘ext summer. — Careless Speech, From Harper's Bazar. or ft is often nothing more— of deterlorating speech is so common that it would be well for all of us to stop and think about it. This sort of thing is so often heard: “I don't think she Is so very pretty as people or, “I don't think he (or she) is so ver—or economical, or stylish, or or cheerful, or a thousand other We do not stop to think that while aps we do not think her so very pretty as we have heard, we do think her pretty; and, egain, if not very clever, sure- ly interesting, and all the others in like measure. It is merely a habit with many people, not skin-deep, but just the cruel nd unfortunate habit of depreciating speech. A woman with a sharp tongue, but with the tenderest of hearts, the most gen- erois of natures, but with a keenly critical mind and a rare intuition as to character, vas brought up “all standing,” as she ex- pressed it, after she had been talking one y with a friend about several people, and fore a young girl who was visiting the friend. In a sudden lull in the talk the girl said, as if by uncontroliable impulse, “Don't you like anybody?” “What do you mean?” said the startled woman. The girl blushed and hesitated, and then said, ‘Please pardon me, but it seemed so.” Little more was said; it was passed off and passed by, as in the polite world things that are unpleasant ere passed over; but into the heart of that woman the criticism sank deeply, and from that hour she watched and guarded her tongue. Now she does not depreciate in speech, and, if she cannot appreciate, is silent. It is well to remember the wise words of Emerson: “Omit the negative propositions. Den’t waste yourself in rejec- tion nor hark against the bad, bul chant the beauty of the good.” What a changed and better world we should all live in if we only followed that advice! Renovating Velvet and Plush. From the Ladies’ Home Journal. A simple method of cleaning velvet, vel- veteen and plush is as foliows: The rule applies to all three kinds of goods, as all have a pile which if flattened must be as- sisted to rise again. With the assistance of a stiff whisk broom, a pan of boiling weter and an obliging friend who will brush up the nap as you hold the goods taut over the steam the wrong side to the water, these materials will look like new. This process removes wrinkles, brightens the color end makes the crushed nap stay up when brushed against the grain, and will answer for black or colored’ pile fabrics. If the velvet has a grease spot on it remove it with French chalk before steaming. A sticky spot may be lightly touched with clean cold water before the steaming process. HOUSEHOLD HINTS Lovers of the Jusctous oyster welcome the month with an R in its make-up, and renew th2ir acquaintance with their fa- vorite bivalve. A Philadelphia housskeep- er famous for her skill in cooking terra- pin and frying oysters declares that the secret of her success in the preparation of ths latter is her care in handling. An oyster, she affirms, should never have a ferk stuck into it, and should never be pressed and flattened, as so many cooks are prone to do. All manipulation should be so careful and dainty that every oys- ter should retain its original plumpness. Only the finest and largest oyst-rs should ever be used for frying. ‘These sclects should be carefully drained, then patted dry with a oft white cloth. ‘To 2ach quart of oysters allow thres well-beaten eggs, mixed with a half cupful of cream. Season with salt and pepper, and dip the eysters in the mixture one ny one. Have riady a pan of fine, well-dried bread crumbs, and, removing the oysters from their “egg bath, roll carefully in the crumbs. Lay aside in a cool piace for a half hour; lay in a wire basket; then im- merse in a kettle of smoking hot lard, or half lard and half drippings, for two or three minutes. Fry a rich, golden brown. Drain, lay a moment on coarse brown pa- per, and serve on a hot platter garnished with a ttl: parsley and quarters of lemon. The glossy brown egg plant is now high in the grocer’s stall, bill of fare is enriched by fried, baked or stuffed. ‘The Jatter iz the favorite way of serving this veg-iable on the continent and in Turkey, where {t is universally used. A slice is cut from the stalk end of the plant and the inside is carefully scooped out, care being tak2n not to break through the skin. The hollowed plant is then cooked for about ten minutes in boiling salt water to cover. While this is cooking, the insid> of the egg plant is chopped with one small onion, and added to half a cup of soft bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of butter, a beaten egg, and salt and pepper to season. The shell is then filled, the top slice returned to its place, and the plant baked in a rather hot oven for half an hour. In frying egg plant cut slices about a third of an inch thick, but do not remove the skin. Sprinkle each slice with salt, pile and cover with a weight to press out the juice. Drain well; dip each slice in fine crumbs; then in beat- en egg; then in crumbs again, and saute them in hot fat, drippings preferred. Among the “pretty tiny kickshaws” s recently at a lawn fete given in Kills for the benefit of an or delicate maidenhair ferns, sturdy prakes and other varieties of the wood fern, a! potted and ready to be carried sack ta t city. It was in the potting of thove that, economy and high art shook hauds. A number of old tomato cans were coll-cied, scrubbed, had holes made in the bottom for drainage, were filled with wood earth, and piled and the family {ls appearance vd ne Cats- phanage were the thrifty wood plants carefully set the in. Several sheets of crepe paper- olive, scarlet, and red, white and plu>—-weve pur- chased, and, under skilled fin ere t che improvised frilled and shirred abo Jardinter>s. Some were tied with baby rib- ben, the same shade as the cover. and others laid in soft crepy folds, hela in place by invisible stits Almost every summer guest was only too glad to posse herself of one of thise daint vers of the summer outing, the ferns, in the parlance of the sin who seld them, went like “hot c 3, hot and brown, are sea- sonable and delicious addendums to the morning meal. When the family is large it is well to prepare them over night. Select firm, round tomatoes, and scoop out the centers, leaving them in the form of litte girls Stuffed tomatoe: cups. Chop the tomato that has been re- moved and mix with equal parts of bread crumbs. Season well with salt, pep- per, mc to the tomatoe butter and bai en with melted butter, and return Dot the tops with bits of » half an hour in a hot oven. These tomatoes may be served on well- browned slices of toast, or with a cream grav ‘The easiest way to extract a splinter deep In the flesh of the hand or foot is hy me; of steam. A rather wide-mouthed bottle filled two-thirds full of boiling water, and the injured spot is held close over the open- ing. The suction draws the flesh down, a little addftional pressure is used to as: the exit of the Intruder. In a few moments the steam extracts the splinter and the in- flammation rapidly subsides A satisfactory way of giving a child sugar on its oatmeal ys one who has made children’s diets a study, is to sprinkle it lightly over each spoonful, using a salt shaker. If care is given in the shak- ing, only a little more than a teaspoonful will be required for an entire saucer of the cereal. The popular “biue print” 1s now frequent- ly used to simulate tiling. A fireboard with a border of the prints {s not only artistic but a perpetual reminder of past delights when the photographs have been taken by some member of the home circle An expeditious way to remove ink stains from the fingers is to dampen the sulphur end of a match and rub over the offendin spot. Meat should never be washed. Tt can be cleaned by wiping it with a wet cloth. BAREFOOT CHILDRE is Decreed That Feet Unshod Means Health and Strength. From the Philadelphia Press. It It is no unusual thing this summer to meet the “barefoot boy’ at every turn among the smart . Master Millionaire has discarded shoes and stockings for the hot weather and trudges through country grass and over seashore sand in the full blissfulness of barefootedness. This is an encroachment on the custom which has prevailed in the south for many years. There the children of the best fam- ies run unshod all through the summe Far from making their feet large and un- shapely, as some have supposed, this free- dom from footwear allows a natural devel- opment and prevents troubles of the feet. One tall and graceful southern woman, who never knew a summer in shoes until she was half grown, wears now a double A, a size which any one might envy, for few feet are narrow enough to carry it. The healthfulness of this new fad is un- doubtable. The principles of alr baths a contained in it; all the foundations of phys- ical culture are its footholds. A radical physician has lately declared that infants ought not to be burdened with any clothing at all for a time, so that their little bodies could absorb all’ the oxygen possible. The barefooted child in summer is a grown-up edition of his scheme. The novelty of it attracts children the freedom! of it holds them and i healthfulness recommetids it as a delight- ful experiment. / How to Manicure. From the St. Louls Globe-Democrat. Get a small bowl or finger glass and dis- solve therein a small piece of pure soap in some hot water. Then soak the finger: tips for five minutes, wipe dry, and then with a knife or ivory manicure implement gently loosen the layer of skin around the Toot of the nail sb that it can be trimmed off with cuticle scissors (especially curved scissors for the nail), and press the skin well back to distinetly show the half moon or “onyx.” This may not be possible at nce, when the nails have been neglected. Bull, two or three manicure treatments will show a marked {mprovement. With the ivory implement remove any dirt from under the nails. Trim them oval shape With cuticle scissors, rub down any un- evenness with prepared toilet emery paper, then apply the nail powder with a chamols polisher. Rinse the nails in warm water, wipe well and rub the nails again with pol- Asher or with the palm of the hand, and do this after washing, which will serve to keep them polished for a week. If the nalls sre brittle and dry, rub a little vaseline over them each night. Perfect cleanliness ie the greatest adjunct to beauty, but, for all that, do not wash your hands too often, Washed seldom but thoroughly, they will keep in ® far ricer condition than if they were continuously being “rinsed,” as it were, which simply serves to grind the dirt into the pores. When gloves are worn at night, be careful that they are perfectly clean inside, otherwise the grime and dirt are aieorbed by the overheated glands, and the effect is opposite from what was desired. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Coats and Capes for Autumn Wear Are At- tractive Now. The New Jackets Have an Old-Time Look and Capes Have Long Fronts and Short Back: Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, September 8, 1898. A judiciously chosen wrap is a good in- vestment for the fall of the year. If be- coming and of the latest cut it can be worn over summer and spring gowns, and transform them Into gowns quite suitable for a later date than alone they would dare to appear in public. The spring jackets will be found quite right in cut and finish, for the few changes which have come since then are not of great moment, but in color they are not as suitable; for while cray was the color for spring, biscuit and fawn cr tan are in high favor for this autumn. By the addition of a tan broadcioth jacket a gray spring gown was seen to blossom forth this week into an autumn gown of correct ani ap- proved fashior Sleeves are somewhat closer fitting than they were in the spring and they flare in a most proneunced manner at the wrist; but otherwise there is not a great diffe ence; and one may go farther back th» ring into one’s wardrobe and find ¢ the stance, has been accepted coat of the hour. the high, close-fitting c worn for quite a year may be scen on many a new coat. It a narrower flare or turr r piece in the back, perhaps, but that i The blouse coats, however, have not « a. ‘There is no sign of a pouched fr ny of the autumn wraps which have 3 come out 89 to which shows that a determined effort make women buy entirely new coats utterly eschew those of jest fall is being made. This is good policy for modistes, but women of good taste and r no matter how long their purses, eb; throwirg eside a perfectly good garme: which has only none seasi So probably pe go0d and s: way will be found to remodel tt A modified (or glorified, as one ¢ put it) form of blazer coat is bein up of lady's cloth or similar either quite wi an trimmed vest snewing or cover with jet and braid, parti the gown underneath. Some of have all the seams corded with 2 e7y ture of silver di and cord the color ef the cloth of which they ar. posed. Some of them are trimmed braid, or are covered with black t braid of a lighter shade than the self. This last is a French novelty, scunds rather dar Viny Velvet Button Rows. ‘or the vests of flaring coats there are tiny velvet-covered buttons ta be put Gn in large numbers, a double row. or one may ave large fancy buttons instead. Many of these vests simulate waistcoats crate material or design. Vests are often of white broadcloth er of fancy satins, und make one think rvefully the visits to the cleaner’s which will be in order to keep them spotless. One of the graceful coats with a vest which shows only slight is made of broadele The 's snugly and in the back t minat the waist line. In the front it has two wide revers of white broadcloth, trimmed with Iraid appliqued, which two sherp points quite three or four i The collar turns back, 4 med in the ne Way as the re waisicoat 4 cf white and tightly. A few belted coats seen, but not very many, and th i sare that this effect. whic ming to s figures. will be ew to out-of-door ¢ ling. ‘Three-Querter Length Coats. Leng ¢ which resem the tumes for golf and t coats ul- ster of vore, have been scen at intervals all summer, and a three-quarters coat is { promised us. It will be smart, judging | from the models, but whether it will be | popular is quite another thing. To wear a} locse garment which hangs about to one’s | knees, and which has no darts in the man- | ner of the few of its kind which are al- | ready on exhibition, reauires peculiar | grace, and also requires height and a few | other requisites as to beauty which are not at the beck and call of Dame Fashion They are gifts she cannot bestow, with al her care and thought. The: littie doubt that women are go- ing to wear capes this fall to a greater extent than has been done for some time Di One sees capes of ar ad all de. scriptions. The smartest garments of this sort have an old-fashioned look. It is an open secret this autumn that the very smartest effect is an old-fashioned or of the ‘earch among t pictures of gown: arly 70's and S0's, pore over the fashion plates of thosc efully, and th evelve your ter or autumn gown, the case m: be. The me pular capes are short in front and long in the back. Sometimes they end in a point in the back, sometimes they are rounded back and fro melimes. there are three capes, one r the other, and sometimes there fs only one, but near- ly always they droop in the back and are quite short in the front sides this, they | must have a clinging and closely encir- | ing air, which reminds one of the days | when wemen led Itered and shielded } lives and did not go to concerts, lectures, | theaters, at not alone at night with- out manly protectors, and did not have clubs and club houses. Capes Flounced and Yoked. The cape has not been able to escape the flounce. One of the newest models has a encircling it. The only trimming is flounce five rows of stitching which bind the flounce to the body of the ed ar on a wide V in the form of a yoke, and deco- te the high roliing col This cape, too, like most of them, Is long in the back) and in the front fs cut so short that the flounce ends in nothing, and the V, which gives | the effect of a y ed yo! is the extreme length of it. This brings the middle of the front only a little below the line of the shoulde ling of cap. like the vests of , is of the most delicate and gay A fawn-colored broadcloth cape, which was very plainly made, rounding up short tn front and drooping long in the back, w lined with delicate yellow bro- caded satin. The effect was most artistic. In the desire to be old fashioned the pe- lisses have not been neglected, and one of the smartest garments shown this month 1s a combined cape and pelisse. The cape is rather long in the back and rounds up on the front, y reaching beyond the shoulders, thus showing the pelisse, which is the regulation two-tabbed long affair, covered With fet in this instance, and belted in at the wai Although the newest models are the capes and pelisses, together with blazer- like jackets, the double-breasted coats are never out of service, but hardly need to be mentioned, as there is little change in their shape, or even in their collars or sleeves. Let this comfort us when we leok at the odd, trailing, clinging lines of the garments in which we are asked to appear now that “the melancholy days are come.” MABEL BOYD. as The Mistress’ Touch. : From Harper's Bazar. “Oh,” sighed a weary woman, “most of the work that I do Is like washing one’s face! One receives no credit for doing it, and yet it shows and is a disgrace if it 3s not done. She might have added that only the lady and house mother would think of doing just the things she does. It is the trained eye of the mistress that notes the finger- marks on the edge of the door, where it, instead of the knob, has been seized by Bridget’s or Norah’s not over-clean hand. It 1s never Bridget or Norah who thinks to wash out the soap cups in the various bed rooms, or who remembers every few days to scald out the water pitchers, lest they acquire a musty odor. And it is the mistress who dusts the upper back rungs of the chairs after Norah has given the drawing room ‘‘a thorough cleaning.” Only the mistress discerns these things and sets them right. It is the lady-housewife’s touch and supervision that mark the differ- ence between eye service and love service. and make of an ordinary house a true heme. Since her little touches, that she feels do not show, bring about such re- sults, may she not be satisfied? Do not buy a baking powder of doubtful quality when for a few cents more you can have “Cleveland’s,” a powder with a record pure cream of tartar of twenty-eight years’ use among the best housekeepers. Cleveland's BAKING does the work just right every time. rounded spoonfuls are POWDER Only required. The Govern- ment buys it for Army and Navy. All the leading teachers of cookery use it. Cook book free. Send stamp and address. CLEVELAND BAKING POWDER C9., 81 & 83 FULTON STREET, NEW YORK. NEW WAY TO ST TANNED. Buy It in a Bot- y Cents. nstead of Senshore tle for Fit From the New York Herald. Let the knight of tae ribbon counter re- Joice and the lovely $6 a week typewriter girl to clap her hands, for a great boon has come to such of them as will receive it. It now possible to acquire a rich brown tan without going to the seashore, and without even suffering the discomfort of a prelim- sunburn. rybody knows —at y in select cirel ‘ds least everybody . of the im- nd ladies who masquer: its and heiresses, and who wor time away—and of all things ad most enviable proof of real sunbrowned skin, acquired who ts an pecunious kc to pass the su the basking in the sands of Newport and Rar Harbor during the hot summer along With the Asterbilts, Vanders and other proud patrician families. it costs to be looked up to as a social lien, even by the office boy. Hitherto a Garkened skin has been painfully and ex- pensively acquired, and, in many cases, by aint of great self-sacrifice. In times past, to Many poor people of vain soc nd intiated reputation, the px tan sullicicnt to give color to tales of br liant conquests at sorts has meant lodging in cheap restau- rants for ten months of the year. To the ininated it is now a cheap and simple lux- ury. This is all due to a new preparation It is applied with a little brush, like that used for water What makes it popular among its users is the fact that after the desired shade btained some months are required for it to weer off. In response to a question as to what kind people buy it, the druggist who sells it said: “Mostly shop gin have all kinds of customers for It day I sold two bottles to a well-k: ciety man, although we brought it t enly a litle while ago. Last month an who I ven her best days, but name was on every tongue a year or came in here and wanted io get She said she as looking for an engagement for tnis fall, but had been twice rejecied by man agers to whom she had applied the ground that she was white as a said she couldn’t afford I didn’t have anything to suit is nd clerks, but we Yester- we a actres! whose two ago. ‘something to brown her up. nee to go to the se: h bi t told her to call on me again in a or two. Meanwhile, I experimented a lit- te ly settled on this prepara tiv: The actress used it, got a fine bre plexion and a good’ engagement. ns told her friends about it, who In tarr ethers—and it has proven to be an enk chain. Since then the pl as been run with customers for it. No, 1 advertise it, f We are mahing n 3 keeping it quiet, and advertising such a thing would kill it.” is a great thing to able thus easily to acqui a complexion that will be th envy of all your friends when they return to the city in the fall, sunburn a lith perhaps, but out of pocket a good deal. Tic whole secret of it lies in the answer of on! frank girl who had keen coniiding to her friend how she got her dark skin “Oh, you brazen-faced thing, yc said her listener, “It isn’t brass,” said the frank ene; “it comes in a bottle in the “fender nd I got it for 50 cents n, HAIR MUST BE R Among Parisians ix to Tint Ut. Latest Custom In Paris it is mere and more the custom to dye the hair, or, in the polite vernacular of the Parisians, “tint” it. There is scarce- ly a French actress whose hair is not ome shade of red, mahogany, & brown, bronze or r One woman told an in- quirer the secret of her hair, which was a t, waving and soft, as li did not bear a trace of la from tine her a large spoonful of ived One favor r vowder put in hair produced the oil preventing the harsh, dry all give. The mixture “res growth of the nately knows what rkish lady vanished. There her white, Paris an prices, to w an opinion for = me package of powder lightiy to the and alcohol applie« effect, app his the arar ally in- but unfor- for the it is, four coi the woman who hair red should strictly adhere to black, blue and gray. There is utocrat, who char terr m women go when they w: s to what « they shall their hair. He talks with them for an he studies them ais XV draw room which suggestion of he dressing, regards reyes and set of t ures, inqui r predominat the toilets . t dame for the son and sends the inquirer away. In a y or So She receives a Ww olor sketch he will look with a tiny curl of red shade he has dc 1 best suits ned to the corne s to the er the ar! stic r employ shionable summer re- | SEPTEMBER GARDENING Now is the Time to Weed Out Your Flowers. per's Bazar From He This for is a time when a good nd among flowers can be d work to ad- | | vantage. There will not be much to do in | the line of weeding or hoeing, but the beds | Should be gone over dally, fading flowers promptly removed his is done, ) most annuals will give us another crop of | tomers It will not be as profuse as the | ler ones, but it will be suff a touch of brightness to the ; eat to give place, and help to prolong the attracti If the tops of petunias ar ¥ away the plants will quickly send up new ts which will give the co ummer. Us finer flowers dur- Weather than t . t mic self-sowing will giv colored flowers next two | months. Now is the rrange for | next ngs pansy bed by wnspaanting Seedlings from the old bed or sow ng seed ot choice This is t bulos. tr month, t In planung Plan to put clear sand immed the bulbs. Not a great deal keep the heavier dense s », in which to ste ou’ lies it un EXC tr contact with them Alies shou | seven or eight i s deep, in ord | the line where there & of soil from the | p best time of the ye | together a stock of potting sv have use for some a little later | Your plants are being got ready | house, and probably in winter; and surely | in spring, when such plants as tuberoses and car have to be s into early grow | will be ng in a st made available as nee this will t that a plant all neces h to do th woods and som some from the tty of ¢ m you can mix you to grow apprec require sary m > work, fre urd: rer &. and aterial at hand with Get some from tt liberal qua these « 2 “rp sand. Fi most pla Look your house plants over ain if any need repottin tend to them now. If this done they will have entire the little disturbance giv the time it is sury to t the hou Many will requir top dressing of fresh soil. By much earth from the pot as out se ng rich soil ir | Teceive as mx from an enti Go over yr poor and unsatist pay to keep int ‘rom the New York Journel The stocking bank, place of a past come obs few ned the-w ges. & almost ash ods of storing away money which ar equally as quaint, y ladies. Jerly spinster who resides in or the | many ancient Boston, had a terped by cupbe huge closet in o: drawe of the instead of resting dirzetly tha | floor, ran on grooves about two inches | above it. This io ra would pull | out and place large sums of moncy and all her jewel cases in the space left w, and then replace the drawer, w kept filled with linen. The old 1 1 al- roken fieawe her h at w money and jewelry-in 1 jering them up catefully with several lay- ) of coal. This might t Hi hat risky ex; » When t owner felt no w lady onc © the w variably placed y in old \shees, which were dlongsid new ones. Quite a of valuables can be forced down into toes ut giv Ing the slightest evidence of the value therei Of other hiding places, popular, especially for pap big family Bible. It is quite a cu thing in out-of-the-way count the change is made * | thus secure arg ae grup dima house hair very high or | _ n of u mandy i ioe reer nd the beautiful parting which | 2% bowls oeaer Se an gan are admire so much is d away with, | 2d the Specter niggas er Re cae pompadour effect, with ree EE Panay ay tacigpeeicarttlar hp ceteagh Fs ng Sts place. Th is left for j Sarded Ly many women as one of the ¥ old ladies and schoolgirls, All kinds | Safest places: ima je for spare rings, of jeweled ornaments are worn in the hair. Sheth as theragkeor one : es. e old lady the other day took her fi 1 ide ol a central New Ye Telling a Furrier’s Secret. resent ret loa ehiageir nes atk mene From the Ladies’ Home Journal. her savings from the bank b ar piace Furs become very much sofled and need | them in the cow institution at hom renovation as much as any other part of a| Mer money had boon here, the woman's wardrobe, but among the OF tae teh eke Xbb Rak MAID i: wes irections given for cleansing and renovat- | Gn, to take it place it nearer her. one seldom finds anything regarding | She would not trust any one but herself furs, Furriers keep all such trade secrets | to come on end draw the few hundr-ds, strictly, but occasionally there is a lea’ -| ERY Ge Te = age, and I am able to give the result of Some tees —— one. Dark furs, as seal, mink and black the Philadelphia Record. marten, are cleaned with fine cedar or ma-| Foul water is purified by it. : hogany sawdust, which is kept In_ stock jo better known @isinfectant can be usel by furriers. The garment is ripped free nted meat can be sweetened and pi from the lining and the fur laid on a table | pea by its use. with the hair up. Then the sawdust is se Guaa kis bdo ot Micke web rubbed in. the and neither strength | os gpl Sherine’ Peek ape rt nor sawdust d during the process, | mals it will prevent all unplea When finished shake the fur lightly over} Charcoal is so porous that it absorbs a the table and save the sawdust that drops | condenses gases rapidly. cut. Then put upon the table one or two] 4 teaspoonful added to half a glass of feather pillows in their usual muslin slips, |. * cia Gar eskiniy Or dew abekes this time, and beat thoroughly with a | ch Ged Ghtes relbeves wnt rolieves the aia switch until the sawdust Is out and the | tcnged stomach pressing against the nerves fur as clean as a pin. Keep moving the | which extend from the stomach to the head. pillows, as the fur must have a soft sup-| Charcoal laid on a burn causes the pain port while beaten. White furs are cleaned | to abate immediately, and by renewing! the with white cornmeal applied as the sawdust | appiication will heal and cure—if it is not is on the darker varieties. If white furs | GED CH GM tag! are only slightly soiled they may be clean- set aR ee ed with magnesia in smail cubes that is well rubbed in and then thoroughly dusted out. SS Scrap Book Paste. A fine paste for scrap books can be made from alum water and flour, one and a half teaspoonfuls of powdered alum dissolved in enough cold water to make a pint of peste. Pour the water, when the alum is dissolved, on enough flour to thicken it as stiff as common paste. Bring it to a boil. stir ail the time, and when done add a few drops of oil of cloves. The alum prevents fer- mentation, and the oil of cloves prevents or Gestroys all vegetable moid. To Clean Piano Keys. From the London Mail. The white ivory keys of a piano should never be cleaned with water, which dis- colors them. Instead, they should be rub- bed over with a soft flannel or piece of silk dipped in oxygenized water, which can be obtained at any chemist’s, and when the notes are stained or greasy use methy- lated spirits, gin or diluted whisky. A simple way of cleaning ivory ts as fol- lows: Get some bicarbonate of soda and some hot water. Dip a brush into the wa- ter and then into the soda, and rub the ivory with it