Evening Star Newspaper, June 18, 1898, Page 17

THE EVENING STAP, SATURDAY, JUNE acd 18, 1898—24 PAGES. MARKET PLACE, MINGLING OF BLOODS| People of Porto Rico Are a Strangely Mixed Race. ARE GROUND DOWN BY POVERTY Would Gladly Welcome Any Change That May Come. EFFECTS OF SPANISH RULE as Wsitten for The Evening S: © BEGIN AT THE) very beginnings of Porto Rican history to go back to t eventful year in| which the island was | covered, 149%, we} have it on the au- thority of the Span- iards themselves that the aboriginal peo- ples of all the West Indies were very \ cleanly and attentive i 9 persons; that the: to the care of their bathed early and bathed often, may have been the cause of Spanish dislike, for if there is any anti y that is racial it is that of the dons against the use of water in general ablution. Not oniy. in the dim and distant past, but of late we have had instances to prove this For example, the naive wonder expr: 1 by the officers of the regiment in which young Lord Caurchill “fought” in Cuba year be- fore last, who were more than a: » frequency with which he took his With them it was looked upon as @ sort of extreme unction, to be taken, if at all, but once in a lifetime. So, as the natives went about naked ani yet were unashamed and virtuous; as they bathed oft~a and were, exterlorly at least, cleanly ani wholesome, and in this re- s superior to the Spaniards, it was upon as a reproach. They might, the Spaniards reasoned, have cleaa ani shining conntenances, but they £ } thought to their souls: hence they were, in| all probaoility, inwardly corrupt and un- | clean, fit subjects for exterminatio: ing upon this suppesition, at all conquistadores pursued their policy of ex- | ™m a until, of the millions found on | their arrival, half a century later not as many thousands remained. Mixed Races. | It is well known that the Latin peoples | do not share in the aversion felt by the} Teutens and Anglo-Saxons for the races that have complexi more deeply than theirs. French affiliation with {nal peoples is a matter of notoric the French and Span erence, that while the former were spontaneous in their expressions of affec tion for the red and black and copper-col- ored inhabitants of lands they the latter courted them only with ulterior | motiv * result is shown in the mixed | product of amalgamation with | either fonality, for while the French | resultant is agile. witty, laughter-loving and affectionate, the Spanish is more morose, treacherous, cealculatingly * from these in Porto nds did not minate the aborigines that remain of Indian blood m the ve present inhabitants. are many half-b ple—“mestizc nd “*m trace connections, more or uncontaminated with Porto Rico. Add to these the Africans, the Jews, the Canary anders. Fa ns In other word: or mixed p izas""—who is, o- | S$ remote and the ancient race of | Minorean | who have been | brought here at one time or another, and | the various half. stes resulting from | § the mingling of these bloods with the Sp: ish, and one may not wonder that of total population of Porto Rico pretty nea ly one-half is something else than Castil pure and undefiled. Slavery was abolished many years ago, but during the time it flourished many thousands were imported from Africa and many other tnousands born in the islend of majority of can African blood, so that the people other than of Spanish birth point to the dark continent as the hom: their ancestors. People of the Computing the population at $00,000, in round numbers, not more than half that number, or say 400,000, are of iS cestry, and the other half composed mainly of mixed bloods. This statement is not de as a matter of reproach, but of fact. rd chose to consort with th of the forest and_ raise of semi-savage children, that AS surely his business, and no reproach to hint, ‘so long as he remained faithful to his family. But the records, so far as they are accessible, do show a ‘idelity to the marital vow on the part of the man that is at all edifying. Perhaps the climate may have been to blame, for wheze children may disport themselves in the garb invent- ed and worn by the sartorial artists of Eden, crave no greater excitement than a cock fight and no greater variety of food than a raw banana or boiled yam, the tendency fs toward nature's wa There may not have been suca a striking recrudescence of aboriginal atavism as is seen across the channel in Haiti—where the African sorcery has become paramount and serpent worship is still practiced; be- cause the Spanish parent was the stronger, and held the offspring to the paternal type. There are some who think it would Fave been better if the aborigiial type had been preserved and continued, especially as the Spaniard who came here to conquer ne lands did not come from any better motives than that of acquiring wealth, nor from any other desire than to gratify his lust for gold and for blood. He rarely came as a colonist, as the Anglo-Saxon regarded the settling of strange countries. Doubtless, 1f the Spaniard had found all he expected here, the race inhabiting these islands today would be the most cruel on the face of the earth. If the gold, the rich awny brood | our gov | suprert a population a large propor: | change the conditions SAN JUAN. lovable and trustworth: the poor people are. They have been subjected to oppression in all its forms, until at last the now of no other life than that of So with the common p29ple--and predominate here—of Porto Rico. They will welcome any change that brings them @ new opportunity. Not that they under- stand what it may be, or how to avail themselves of it when it comes, hut they have enough sense left to know that noth- ing could be worse than the life they lead new. But while the opening of the island to a rece’ ment (speaking of its conquest as a possibility of the near future) will mean | the releasing of the common people from a hidebound despotism, it is by no means cer- tain that there will be great opportunitie for the acquisition of wealth, either by the explcitation of mineral or agricultural re- immigrants from the United e conditions that have prevailed fer centuries cannot be changed in a day; the lands to which titles have been held for hundreds of years ted in a short time; even the lands th: ay fall to ernment by right of conquest will have to remain in: ible for some time. But that there are mineral resources worth exploiting, tracts well worth purchase for deveiopment by means of modern a tural operations—coffee lands nd sugar lands along the « Nery ri eve. G ere in considerable quantities at the time way, sells for $25 when of assured pedi- gree, and the chief diversion of those who have a little loose change now and then is to frequent the “valla de gallos.” This. with an occasional performance at the the- ater. a musical entertainment, and in the uniry a restricted picnic at which all the young ladies are carefully guarded from the men—this is the sum of their di- versions. Making love, of course, goes on all the time, for the creole nature is soft and lan- guishing,, complaisant, easily tickled compliment and prone to hanker after tive forbidden fruit. Scratch a Porto Rican and you find a Spaniard underneath the skin, so the language and home customs of Spain pre here as in Cuba. The ladi of the upper classes are strictly secluded and have litjle freedom, yet entrance into Society here is more ly attained than in Spain or in Cuba. That the ladies are charming goes without saying. They differ from the Havanese as the gentlewomen of New York and Newport differ from their ters in the country. They are insular, even provincial perhaps, but they possess charming traits of character, gentle man- rers and speech, goodness of heart and un- affected frankness with their friends. Their acquaintance is an easier matter of ac- complishment than that of the Havana la- dies; still they are surrounded with the same safeguards that hedge about the others, and which the ardent young men deem So superfluous. Society in Porte Rico. To one who has had the pleasure of meet- ing them at home and of being introduced into their society by a mutual friend, the remembrance of their graciousness seems like a bit of good fortune that rarely falls to the lot of the West Indian traveler. Those of gentle birth and breeding are sweet and flower-like, with a bright alert- ness peculiar to the Latin woman trans- pianted to American soil id climate. Their glances are swift and m: ing, their great black eyes capable of seeming quite full of expression; their features are not al Ss clas: ly regular, but usually at- tractive. They are petite of form and v" small hands and feet, dress in the la style from Paris (the “latest” being usual- ly two years old by the time it reaches Porto Rico) and, in a word, are thorough- ly feminine. It is this charm of femininity that makes the creole, whether French or Spanish, so potent with man. It was a creole, it will be remembered—Josephine, a native of Martinique—who captivated and ruled Napoleon. She ruled him, that is, in all matters domestic and within her ken and comprehension: her limitations were those of her sex, her weapons were tact and a persuasive charm of graciousnes: The best = m for visiting Porto F and making the acquaintance of the coun- Ty people ng the winter. January . looking back to the and ahead to the suns ‘ebruary is iable ains of ine of month, A LITTLE VAGRANT, PORTO RICO. of the conquest, but no great effort has been made to mine only the sands of auriferous streams were washed, by primi- tive means While the better classes Saxed in business and are of » mainly en- yanish origin, most of the poorer are resident in the coun- from is diving nd cit that an island of it arable land i every vari able known to the tropi hic is poverty stricken. nd whether a be Yet such is the er government wi o radically that will be improved in means, and also efford an opening for enterprising Americans, re- mitins to be seen. Hard to Understand. It is not strange t poverty exists in cur own country, where a long winter pre- vents the poor from raising even the nece: saries of existence; but in a land where the sun always shines, where it fs ne er im- pe - to plant and sow and find fruit—to find people there without the me : fife, and in the e try districts at that, seems inexplicable. ‘The reason for this condition lies not on the surface of things, but down in the i foundations of society. » children, as has been intimated, white, black and colored of both sexes, di: port themselves in their complexions mer additions of dirt as the t play, and which is removed at night. They are ly cleanly, as are most dwellers in ul counir! because the bath is al- nd to paddle in cool may be found) and be- tree-ferns and banana: anter than rolling in the dirt. But teanline only a relative term, depend- ing upon the surroundings. In the large nen > whi not natur: tropica wa 4, A Lady of San Juan, Porto Rico. towns and cities, where opportunities for bathing are infrequent, the youngsters are not so inviting in appearance as in the country districts, along the coast, or where, in fact, pocls and streams are available. The country people live as nearly in a state of nature as they can and as the laws will allow, simply because a state of nature fits them best and is comfortable. The children reluctantly don the garb of civilization at or near the age of ten or twelve, and then only after many and tear- ful protestations. In their innocence, they see no harm in going naked; they are cer- tainly free from that pruriency which { variably attends the wearing of clothe: their forms are symmetrical, their health is generally good. But for the existence of fevers and of such noxious insects as cen- m‘nes, the opportunities for the ensiave- ment of his fellow mea, which were a forded ‘n the first century of his settling here—if these had continued, with their consequent Hcense for unbridled pessions, for the perpetuation of unmitiga uel- ties, such as stain the page of ory wherever Spain has gone for conque: people of Porto Rico would be hard subjects for acquisition by Uncle Sam. Ground Down by Poverty. But poverty is the great leveier. It is here as it is in Spain. While the Spanish government {s a hideous thing—a survival of the times of Charlies V and Philip H, smacking of the inquisition and autos de fe —the Spanish people are at heart kcnest, Uipedes, tarantulas, scorpions, ete., child life in the tropics would be without any alloy of unhappiness. In the Market Places. It fs in the market places that the com- mon people most assemble and may be studied to the best advantage. There, as well as in the shops, it will be seen that their transactions are_of a very humble character, chiefly measured in small change and not in dollars. Each vender has a space assigned, within which are piled small heaps of fruits or vegetables that he or she has brought from the coun- try, and not infrequently a fighting cock is tied to the leg of the little stuol on which the vender is sitting. A good bird, by the j reat rains of the autum: With clear days and cool nights, and with March and A constitutes the est portion of the year. Nature 1s a wanton, after April si this month and May are Iikel have gentle showers, which increase to heavy rains in June, when the flowers and nature are at their best. June is a month of flowers, as well as July, in which latter, on the twent fifth, the hurricane season begins, those tropical temp in their path, increasing in frequenc strength in Augu: id September. It is not until October has opened and the ul equinox have ed that the inhabitants of Porto Rico that all danger is over. F. A. OBER. ———— JOURNALISTIC CURIOSITIES. i feel The Newspapers of Havana Show Some Ludicrous Items. Frem the New York Herald. There is not a little rare and curious reading to be found in the occesional cop- jes of the Havana newspapers that now and then dribble through the blockade. Copies of La Lucha recently received, but already many days old, are particularly rich in oddities of Havana journalism. One is immediately struck by the marvel- ous meagerness of the news relating to the war, but for this the censor is doubtless largely responsible. ‘The only reference to the blockade in one number fs a three-line “official” notice that only two American ships are in sight off the port of Havana. To make up for his, however, a leading article headed “Piracy of the Worst Kind” is devoted to the particulars of the capture of the steamer Argonauta, with Spanish efficers and soldiers on board, who, by the way, are simply described as “passengers.” After roundly denouncing the American officers and sailors as no better than pi- rates in their treatment of the passengers and crews of all captured vessels, of whom they are said to have spared neither men nor women, the article continues: “Let us tell what happened to the passengers on the Argonauta. On seizing the ship the enemy swarmed over the side, poniards in hand like fierce buccaneers, and before taking charge of their prize, or even approaching the captain, hastened to loot the baggage of the passengers, plundering all alike of whatever money they had, either in their valises or on their persons. From a Portu- guese lady they tore the rings from her fingers and robbed her of $5,000 in gold and €panish bank notes which she had in a satchel which she attempted to conceal un- der her skirt. “Having finished the work of pillage the pirates cast loose one of the ship’s boats. into which they hustled all their prisoners, all the while heaping on them the grossest abuse and indignities. Before casting off the boat, not content with the infamies al- ready committed, they turned the steam hose on their victims. How worthy these wretches of being officers in the navy of the country of Lincoln!” The article closes with the comforting re- flection that the nations of Europe will know of these “acts worthy of pirates, but unworthy of sailors who pretend to repre- sent the honor of their nation.” % A dispatch dated Matanzas, and adorned with a rude cut of a rifle shell, tells with whimsical particularity how the projectile fired from the American fleet was unearth- ed by a committee of distinguished citizens officlally- appointed for the purpose. The narrative, which takes the form of a reg- ular proces verbal, describes minutely how the committee “proceeded to the extrac- tion of the projectile,” which fell, “in con- nection with others,” in the patio of No. 30 Calle de San Fernando. The “extrac- tion,” which, it is declared, was only ac- complished with much labor, took place in the presence of sundry military dignitaries whose names are given. Dewey’s victory at Manila is disposed of in a four-line dispatch dated Madrid and headed: “The First Battle—American Fleet Routed. The Cavite fleet has heroically fought the American fleet, which retired badly damaged.” By way of Preparing the public for the truth a paragraph in another column states that there is “some anxiety” in Madrid over the result of the batt ——+e+_____ The Rayanzi, who live along the upper Congo, have a strange custom which makes life a burden to the married women. Brass rods are welded into great rings around the necks of the wives. Many of these rings worn by the women whose husbands are well to do weigh as much as 80 pounds, and this burden must be carried by the wretched creatures as long as they live. When the barn owl has a young family it hunts diligently and brings to its nest about five mice in an hour. As both of the parent birds are actively employed both in the evening and at dawn forty mice Si cay 36 & layp eetismate tee the: total oem ure. AT A GARDEN PARTY Dainty Summer Gowns That Are Worthy of Being Copied. COLORS AND MATERIALS FOR JUNE Combinations That Are Both Ef- fective and Becoming. DEMAND FOR VIVID COLORS Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. (Copyright, 1898, by the International Literary and News Service.) NEW YORK, June 17, 1898. A T A SUMMER LUN- cheon and garden party with which June was heralded in one of those Long Island towns that have grown so fast in fachfonable favor, the prettiest color combinations in the Bresses of the wo- men present were white and yeilow or white, blue and yel- low. The most charming scenes were in ahd about the roee garden of more than an acre in ex- tent, where low-growing roses like the Jacks in their carefully kept beds, neigh- bored thickets of climbing vines and scrub of “wild” roses pruned by the gardener's hand, but flowering still with their pale pink, sweet briar blossoms. A diaphanous dress that filtted among the flowers was of yellow’ muslin em- broidered in white. Its wearer, half jest- ingly, half in reminiscence of an old fash- fon of the south, dating from the “other war,” had placed a crimson rose in her hair above one ear. ‘She was a slim, durk girl, whose colorless face and scarlet lips were in startling contrast with one another. She moved slowly with the languor of the heat, and the muslin stirred in cloudy folds about her in the light air. A rose pink taffeta un ess, Showed slightly througi the yellow. ‘Me filmy overdress rayed out full at the bottom. It was cut with a deep flounce headed by fine tucks and covered with a faint tracery of embroidery. The bodice showed the same reflection of pink through yellow, and was confined by a broad sash of yellow and white plaided ribbon. The picture hat for once was an agreeable picture, instead of a reflection of grotesqueness. ‘The broad Leghorn straw curved casily down over the eyes and up to show the hair. A thick ruche of white net covered with /black surrounded the crown and was held in front by a large cut-st buckle from which two white ostrica plumes swept backward. The brim was turned up behind, with pink and yellow roses. Simple and Pretty. A costume of a very different descrip- tion walked up and down in the sunshine under a big blue and white parasol. Its owner was a tall, tow-headed young wom- an, imposing for the audacity of her height and the gleam of her turquoise blue eyes rather than for any especial beauty of feature. Her white foulard, figured with Llue, was as simple as a dress can be made in these times, and for that reason was rotable. The circular flounce on the trim, close-fitting skirt was composed en- tirely. of narrow tucks. The corsage was trimmed with insertions of squares of Irish lace; those on the right simulated one side of a small zouave; on the left the lace was carried in a line to the waist, and thence to the top of the flounce, where it turned a right angle and crossed the front of the skirt, as if adorning a polonaise opening on the side. A sash of yellow tulle and two rosettes on the bodice found a Tepeat In the white straw hat wreathed ‘with tulle and yellow roses and knotted with blue ribbon. The costume of a more matronly lady who took her pleasure under the shade of a honeysuckle trellis illustrated the ex- treme popularity of black and the skill with which it is being handled. Its foundation Was leaf-green silk, covered with black net, The net was arranged in two skirts, of which the lower was finished with a deep flounce, trimmed up and down with narrow ruchings of black ribbon. The overskirt was embroidered in spangles, making ara- besques. It ended in a ribbon ruffle. The corsage of black silk was decorated with light green taffeta ribbons crossed on the front and knotting in a bow behind. A small bolero of black net embroidered with chenille and spangies made a wise adjust- ment to a somewhat full figure. The sleeves reaching just below . the elbows were transparent and spangled. The hat was in black, green and yellow. 2 Tailor-Made: Piques. A number of guests from , distance wore smart tallor-made piqi She of these, of which I took notice, was of a military blue pique lawn, light weigtt and cool looking. It was cut with double bands of white linen outlining the narrow front breadth up and down and crossed,near the bottom by other bands which headed the skirt flounce and ran completely off the skirt in front, where the flounce dwindled ;to nothing. In the back they rose to.a moderate height, avoiding the excessive tilt of many recent models. The jacket was edged with linen and trimmed with a lgttice-work of white on the revers. It aed oyer a blouse of pale blue mull, embroidered with white and yellow. Hat of blue ll with dark blue ribbons. A “breakfast" given by ofe of the June brides to her bridesmaids and girl friends — some cog features. . The Done who an artist, was mainly responsible for the dining room decorations. She had covered the walls with coarse brown paper, against which background stood out leaf eprays in vivid greens, with occasionally a deep blue flag lily or long-stemmed daisy. The table waa cool and with ferns, daisies and buttercups, bringing in a Mttle of the sunshine. Summery Gowns. The dresses were as summery as their Sefting, dimities, chambrays and canvas cloths predominating. A frock of rose-cot- ored linen embroidered with white cotton was, perhaps, the daintiest. A blue linen dress with yoke and collar of tucked white muslin, and skirt heavily embroidered in| that cape.” white, was almost as successful. A white dimity dotted with pale blue was made with a full accordion-plaited skirt edged with lace ruching; it was draped over an underdress of blue corded lawr. The cor- sage and sleeves, also blue lined, were mys- teries of lace and tucking. An odd dress of a cream-clored taffeta spotted with black, green and pink was trimmed at the hem with zigzags of lace and green ribbon ruches, the same orna- mentation appearing at the waist, and on yoke and sleeves. The effect, which might easily have been bizarre, was piquantly pretty on the fresh, peachy girl who ap- peared thus attired. Cream-Colored Muslin. Not essentially novel, but effectively ar- ranged. was a dress of cream-colored mus- lin made over a taffeta skirt of the same shade. The muslin overdress was finished with three wide flounces, which were rendered more frilly and more suggestive of the hoop-skirt that hevers ir the di tance and thrcatens continually to bear down on us by being covered with fuil ruckes of narrow white ribbon. A sccond short apron skirt was of very fine linen finishing it like a flounce. The corsage was a bolero of slin; this was turned back with revers e, and was worn over a vest of white mull girdled with a soft folded sash of taffeta spotted with yeilow. Wita this toilet belonged a parasol of white lace, with yellow lining, and a small round hat of yellow straw trimmed with maM and black feathers. Vivid Colors. If there is one thing more notable chan another about the dress congresses that assemble in shaded parlors or 1eafy lawns une deepens to its pleasantest, it is the craving for vivil eolors that strengthens uily. Dresses of bright scarlet pass and repass on streets. One lreezy after- noon this week I noticed oa one block three young girls in rose pink waiking vbreast; not far behind them were two other girls in airy muslins of a pink even decpes Within the minute two girls in turquoise blue came within range of vision, along with a dress of violet and white, one of wlite serge, trimmed with black, and ote of tan with brilliant sky blue ornamenta- tion. The star-spangled fashions have made any sort of conservatism in colors out of the question. A tailor dress of navy blue serge with white pique blouse and With belt, cravat and hat band of the tri- color has so much decision and snap that delicate effects when brought into contict with it must be managed with care or the! look shy-wash: Indeed, with ga. flags covering the house fronts 2nd min: ging with the June foliage, human beings irstinctively put on their gayest, lest they cease to count in the landsca ELLEN OSBORN. THE PERFECT TRUNK. It is Now Possible to Pack Without Worry and Fuss. From the New York Herald, With delight will the woman who 1s far seeing and up to the times go about her task of trunk packing this summer. No longer is she to have visions of possibly erushed gowns at the’end of her journey, and of hats “squashed” out of all sem- blance to the original styles. For there has come a fresh era in trunks and “boxes,” and packing will have no more terrors. The trunk that has been popular for so many years—the “trunk” that was simply a packing case, various in size and shape, with one deep tray divided up into boxes of odd sizes—has this year passed into the realm of departed fashions. In its place there is a new trunk of very different p tern, It is a trunk of trays—four or fiv trays, and in the case of the largest even six—all fitting snugly into the trunk’s framework. Each of the trays is intended to hold one gown and three small pieces. They are quite as convenient for men’s clotning— trousers and coats traveling in them with- out rumpling or creasing. In the trunk’s very bottom, under the lowest tray, boots, slippers and’ heavy articles generally may be stowed, held in place by the tray direct- ly over them, the necessity of tightly wedg- } ing thus being avoided. it is not that the average clever woman cannot pack everything and in a space that mathematicians would at once declare en- tirely too small. The trunks of the past have presented no unsolvable problems when it came to filling them up. But with these new trunks the wear and tear and the worry of packing is all past and gone, and the daintiest dresses can with the greatest expedition be laid in the trays and the cover closed. To put hats in trunks this year will be no part of the feminine philosophy. The wo- man who has pretty hats will be foolish to trust them in the recesses of a trunk amid linen, gowns and the odds and ends of mi- lady’s gear. Modern mechanical science has devi a very simple answer to the question, “How can we most safely carry our elaborate summer hats?” A hat box has been invented that, though small in compass itself, can hold six hats of the greatest amount of “fuss and feath- ers.” In this, on sides, bottom and wp, there are small metallic arms that turn and can be slipped over the brim. The sides caity four hats, the bottom the fifth, the cover the sixth. Firmly held in place in this manner none of these can interfere with each other. This hat box locks in precisely the same manner as does a trunk. Not only does its cover lift up, but on open- ing one of the sides fails. Thus any hat can be taken out or put back without dis- turbing the others. ———_+e-____ Feared to. Disappoint Her. From Harper's Bazar. “IT thought you satd it was cold today, Polly. I’m simply roasting.” “I thought you wanted me to say 80, mamma. You do look so awfully well in Bought by the Government. Cleveland’s baking powder is pur- chased for the Army and Navy. This is a guarantee of quality, for OOO DOOC leveland’s Baking Powder has been officially analyzed and found to be a e @ pure cream of tartar powder or it would not be bought. Cleveland Baking Powder Co., New York. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Sailor Hats and Some Others That Are Popular. The Proper Sty for Cycling, Yacht- ing, Traveling and Gar- den Parties. Special @orrespondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, June 16, 1598. The sailor hat is finally firmly establish- ed. But do not be deluded by this state- ment into the depressing belief that the un- becoming little pork pie hats of rough and ready straw are the most approved shape. It is true they are not far from it, but in that quarter of an inch in both crown and brim lies the difference betwe2n artistic beauty and ungainly ugliness. It is also true that rough and ready straw, as it Is called, is the newest and latest The sailor hats of this summer, howeve are only a trifle lower in the crown and a little narrower in the brim than those of last summer. Women who were far- sighted enough to purchase their sail frcm a good shop last year need not change or buy a new one this season. They ni only have the old hat cleaned and hav black band put on if it now displays a In other cssentials it will an- white one. swer v well. For the becoming white bands are in the minority. The regula- tion sailor has a black band, and is itself composed of white straw, generally the “rough and ready” above described, which has a double brim, giving a rather heavier look than was considered becoming or necessary in the past. The smooth white sailors are not by any means eclipsed by the rougher straw, although not quite as much in evidence. Many women will al- ways consider a fine white straw the only weave suitable for their wear, and it is an undoubted fact that the smooth sailor the most becoming, be it made up in white, black or colors. Rough and ready straws of mixed colors, two blues, two greens, or two browns t xether, are much used. ’ But if one buys one of these sailors she will still find that she needs a white one. A summer without a white sailor is a summer Ill spent. No other hat takes its place with white gowns or for out-of-door games and recreations. For Cycling and Yachting. This year an attempt has been made to introduce other shapes for cyclists and yachtswomen, and the golfers have their sunbonnets, but the hat of all hats for cyclists, yachtswemen, golfers and other gamesters is the white sailor. A novelty is the white pique sailor,which may be found with band and brim edged with almost any color which one wishes to match the ribbons of some gewn. It is not probable that of white pique will do more mand for something new alone. Their brims cannot he made enough withcut sacri‘icing which is their chief merit. hat without 2 brim which will sist the attempt of any and turn {t from its perfectly is a sailor which no one will long. Very dainty and becoming are the stiff the lightness, And a sailor omtly re- 1 winds to ra‘ght course want very white felt sailors with a white rib) nd at most a silk pompon in the way of trim- not even that. These felt posed to be worn with costumes, but they are far oming and useful to be kept for alone. They will be seen with white joth gowns during the and will harmor with voolen gown much better than. ats in straw. Appropriate Trimmings. Sailor hats, quite covered with flowers, are seen very often, but they differ from those so much worn a few seasons ago in that fewer flowers are used to do the same amount of work; that is, if a sailor has a rose garden on it the roses are artistically separated, so that they will faf carelessly much as they would be arranged in a vase, instead of being massed together in great bunches or crowds. The roman scarfs which were worn in the early spring on the Alpine hats have survived the fall of the hats they adorned and have now come for- ward on the sailors. Although one sees many sailors wound with a Koman scarf from which a fringe droops over the hair, it is not considered the best of taste. The scarf should be tidily disposed of about the hat with no ends awry. For a change from the inevitable sailor one sees hats of panama, with rolling brim and depressed crowns, something like the hats which boys and girls of about sixteen wore to school a year or so ago. These panamas are not half as becoming as the sailor. One can also find them in felt trim- med with soft colored plaid ribbon and quills of the same shade. In felt they are called yachting hats, but are especially suitable and comfortable for tourists. For one may as well acknowledge that, al- though the saflor hat is the crown of the summer girl or her older sister, it is not comfortable for journey@of any sort. It will not adapt itself to circumstanc For Garden Wear. For garden wear one may find the shape of the real Mexican sombrero, though for- tunately for our poor heads it is not the simon pure articles. It weighs about ten pounds less, that is, almost nothing, and is simply trimmed with a scarf of some soft white material. It can be worn turned up or pulled down over the eyes, 80 as to com- pletely keep the sun from one’s complexion and would be most excellent for a fishing or bathing hat. For weddings, garden parties and all other elaborate functions of leafy June one should have a leghorn. The leghorn is again in its glory, if, indeed, there ever was a time when it suffered more than a partial eclipse. The leghorn approved of fashion nowadays is not adorned with nodding red roses as of yore. It has gone back to the day of white plumes, and caught up in an artistic fashion and decked with at least two long, soft, white plumes it is the companion of the organdie and other diaphanous gowns of summer's gath- ering. MABEL BOYD. + LEARNING TO SWIM. The Slow Stroke Given as the Char- acteristic of an Expert. From the Womaa's Home Companion. Just as soon as the warm weather sets in many persons who, at the close of last summer, were able to swim a few strokes will again somewhat timorously enter the water. The majority will find this self-im- posed fask far more difficult than is antici- pated, It is necessary to remind those that indulge in short, hurried strokes that one slowly and deliberat tot e ei swimmers must cultivate self-reliance, and they should always bear in mind that water itse!f has a sustaining power far greater than that of most other liquids. The slow stroke sence of good swimm bather to inflate the lungs and th Those who wish s uncon- sciously turn them temporatily into life- preservers. To move slowly is to get 5 y of breathing time, and to get plenty of breathing time is to get plenty of strength to repeat the movements which proj body through the water. en rule which the living hu- er than water, it does not r Confidence int + consequent sarily sink therein. taining power of water fs t nly secret to swimming. The best way convince | the novice of the buoyancy of water is to | let her wade cut untii th omes Up | to her breast; but before doing this she | should take care, when in shallow water, to i © her whole body, so ax to avoid the rush of blood to the head, from which many bathers suffer threugh neglecting to do this. With the water once on a level with the breast the bather should lie on her back and extend her arms out beyond head, but not raised out of the water, This position makes breathing casy and gounterbaiances the weight of the The bather should lie restful! x stiffening the nether limbs. The be rigid, th feet close together, but out of the water, for if they were they Would overbalanc and carry it be the weight of the ath the surface. ee =o. = The New Finger Nail. New York Herald. tinted finger nails are at an ‘inger tips nat have shown a high polish and a delicate point of nail are past and gone—that is, among the ultra-fash ionables. And it is the athletic, the sport- ing girl, that has brought it all about. She—this vigorous young woman that ts out in the air at all times and is setting the pace for all the girls of this generation—ex- Hibits now a hand with a nail that is cut squarely and unromantically, and shows but a dull polish, if, indeed, it shows a pol- ish at all. Never a suspicion of coloring matter is on this nail. It has been treated cnly with soap and water, and its pink is a faint one side the deep pink that was So popular a year ago or even this past Winter. Thus the finger nail of the modern girl ts very prosaic compared to what it was and looks more Mke a boy's than it does her very own. Golf has been the power that has banish- finger nail and put this new, boyish-appearing nail in its place. For im mild feminine sports the pointed nail of high polish was all very well, but the girls found it did not do when it came to golf The high polish was destroyed in short order, the point got in the way, and fre- head Prem the ry § uently during an exciting stroke broke jon one or the other of the golf sticks. This was not to be endured. The golf girl is. before all else, very practical. She made up her mind at once that the nail she had long been so proud of and had mani- cured so faithfully must go, and in he place she made this new nail the fashion. It is not an artistic nail, erves ite purpore, and is being thoro adopted by the girls that delight in —_—_+ e+ ____ The Care of Cut Glass. From the Philadelphia Record. | Glass wa will last longer and los better If the following hints as to its care and preservation are regarded. Tepid water, the besi castile or other pure soap and a stiff brush are the first e=sentials. After washing and rinsing, place the cut glass in a wood sawdust. This will absorb the ure in the cuttings. Next remove the sawdust from the plain sur- faces with a soft cloth. By following these directions the original clearness and spar- kles of the glass will be maintained. Shot should not be used in carafes, crueta, toilet articles and similar articles. It is very apt to scratch the glass and thus mar its beauty. Prosaic potato peeling are the best aids. Let them remain in the glass ware over night and then rinse out with a little tepid water. A very important point ts to avoid sud- den changes from extreme heat to extreme cold, and vice versa. A pitcher or tum- bler which has been filled with ice wate a tray that has been used for ice cream, if plunged at once into hot water will be apt to crack. Use tepid water, and the risk of breakage is avoided. The sudden change from heat to cold is just as dangerous. Glass ware should never be removed from a closed cabinet whére it has become heated and brought immediately into contact with a cold sub- stance. Cool the glass for a time in weier before subjecting it to the extreme tuine perature. —+e + Sweeping. m the Home Decorator and Furnisher. For the sweeping of floors nothing fs bate ter than wet newspapers, fine salt genere ously strewn over the carpet, or cornmeal slightly moistened. Short sweeps ar> the way to bring out the tints of floor cover- ings, particularly when old. Some foolish people wipe them after being swept with water in which is a sprinkling of ammonia, This fades the colors and if often don: is sure to produce a bad result. Sweeping is an art and the old-fashioned housekeeper knew how to handle a broom. Dusters aro excellent if made of Turkish toweling; those made of silk are allowed to get gritty, but a soft cotton on which are a few drops of kerosene oil will prove a boon for certain woods that accumulate dust. ee ea “Poor Mrs. Gibbles can’t hear more than half hem husband says to her.” “That's all right; she oughtn’t to.”—Chk cago Record, Clergyman—“Augustus, wilt thou taki this woman——" Bride (late of Remnant & Co.'s ribbon & '—Punch. of the golden rules of swimming is move | partment)—“Lady!”.