Evening Star Newspaper, May 21, 1898, Page 19

A BOULEVARD COSTUME Goprricht, 19, by 8 M-Ralsety Sz @ Pansy, Paris) FELIX ON FASHIONS| ee Suggestions for Women Who Would | ; the prevailing style Be Well Dressed. - TAFFETA MORE POPULAR THAN EVER Considering the Problems of Para- sols and Sun Umbrellas. A GOWN FOR EVENING WEAR ae Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. PARIS, May 14, 1898. Even ineconstant woman will be to her fancie mes, particularly when these fancies appertain to articles of at- delicate textiles and dainty fashions which she iias successfully tried and found becoming. Thus among fabrics which will not be discarded and are taken up more favorably than ever after a short cblivion is taffeta. In spite of the temptations of shining satin and soft surah which the novelty mongers have offered, the characteristic light rustle of taffeta appeals to the feminine ear and taffeta is revived for gowns, for linings, for ir bodices and for under- tire, jependent ris. Another advantage of this favorite silk goods is that it lends itself so admirably to the changeable effect now so in vogue and proves consequently an admirable founda- tion for the many elaborate trimmings are used in such profusion. Our model is composed of taffeta of a changeable rose and hellotrope shade. The skirt is absolutely unlined; but a narrow interlining of linen canvas and a facing of taffeta gives a certain body to the hem. Unilke most fashionable couturiers, we have endeavored to restrict the “dip” or sweeping skirt to its proper premises, the parquet of the ball rcom or the carpeted floors of and we have therefore made all models a convenient as Well as artistic length. The same principle is obvious in our design of te Three v full rufftes of rose heliotrope taffeta a ged with two rows of narrow and wide black velvet ribbon. The front gore is set with strips of the wider ribbon, and two falls of rules graduating in width as they reach th the skirt sim loose blouse ete and si e front is decors e a kind of tablier. is fitted over a tight eless lining of taffeta. i with stripes of black The velvet ribbon hke t front of the skirt, and also like the skirt is defined by a garniture of full ribbon-cdged ruffles on either side. ‘The 1, unlined sleeve ts especially adapted to warm weather and is trimmed with rows of black velvet ribbon and sur- mounted by a puff. The ribbon-striped faithful | hree ruffles surrounding } (long to { | | which, standing coilar, as well as the wrists, are finished with a full rume. Hat and Parasol. The hat is of the “Bergere” shape of white straw trim:med with myosotis and ‘kK velvet ribbon, and, according with has considerable flow- rnitures at the turned-up and ribbon ga ‘k brim. The parasol is made of the same rose he- Notrope taffeta the gow nd is co ered with wh hiffon and finished with white lace. ch rib of the parasol is trimined with a bow of blaok velvet ribbon d lace and bh ribbon loops and ends aiso deco top. The stick is very accommodate the towering hat, and the handle is a large round ame- thyst held by a silver claw. ‘The time Las come when parasols are al- most as necessary an adjunct to a com- plete toilet as a hat, and every well-dressed woman must have not only one, but a match for every costume if she has any desire to be swell. ‘They come in every hue and shade of the rainbow, and an enterprising dealer has in- vented a frame which will admit ef the fastening of different covers to match dif- ferent toilets. Clever women with an eye to economy find the style of gauze parasols very prac tical. They buy a guod China silk un- trimmed parasol with a handsome handle, eccrate it with lece or "ze or applique designs and ribbon knots and have without much trouble or expense a good imitation of the very costly models, Much selection is given to the handles, and a tempter in the form of a serpent, like the legendary toad, wears a precious jewel in its head, has come back to torment the hearts of women who haunt the shops looking for noveltie: This time It coils itself around the handles of the smartest designs in parasols. Sum Umbrellas. ‘The sun umbrella is always suitable for the woman who has a tendency toward masculine attire, and it has now reached such a state of perfection, and it can be done up so tight to its stick, that it can be used in all emergencies. The golf enthusiast will appreciate a de- cided novelty in the shape of a golf um- brella. The stick can be uSed for “putting” when the silk umbrella is closely rolled up and covered. Whether it will prove a prac- tical addition to the “kit” still remains to be seen. The indispensable sporting costume of the fin de siecle woman has an influence on her whole wardrobe. Not only has the useful and reversible golf cape proved itself a natty and practical wrap for traveling, but pockets are now demanded in all costumes and the intelligentedressmaker no longer places them inaccessibly to the fair wearer. Street costumes e trimmed with cres- cent shaped pockets without flaps, and if the skirt is as plain as the present fashion will allow the fly pocket in the seam of the front gore looks ‘tailormade and unos- tentatious. On dressy wear the pocket is easily hid- den under the garniture and woman no longer mourns the less of dainty handker- chiefs, and sleeves and belts no longer bulge out with stuffed-in mouchoirs. «. FELIX, Paris.) MODES A LA MILITAIRE. iris Now Clad in Natty dier Gear. From the Pittsburg Dispatch. The patriotic girl who does not indicate love for her country by some warlike is decidedly in the minority, and even ait has become soldier- and her air decidedly martial. a First of ali is the golf cape of army blue, lined with vivid scarlet, recalling to some of us older ones the memory of the one-armed suldier who immediately after the late war pervaded the land clad in similar habili- he very sight of the powder-stained Regiments of ments, old cloak dra virig forch delicacies from the ers’ stores and twenty-five-cent from the pockets of pater familias. lor-made, in addition to her 8 a gown of cadet blue, nd fastened by most Meanwhile ths summer girl will be nothing if not patriotic; will top her vicious tresses by a saucy- icoking soldier cap; she will clasp ner belt a brass buckle bearing the coat of arms of U , and a dainty pin in the form of crossed muskets will hold it in place in the back. Her cuff links and her studs wiil be real military buttons, cut, p2r- t of some beloved soldier t pins, no matter will give place to laddie. and how much bejeweled, those bearing brass buttons with the 2agle | and shield upon them. And then the stick- | pins of the patriotic maid! The laces on her bosom will be held in place by a tiny gold sword or musket; her Ascot tie will be adorned by a miniatur> soldier's cap or knapsack, while college pins will for the nonce be displaced by an enameled repre- sentation of the stars and stripes, which she will wear proudly over her loyal littls heart! If, on the other hand, the up-to-date | quills and sevsre-looking bomen aie al: girl is a sailor's sweetheart sha will desig- | nate that fact in every available article of dress and decoration. Her sailor hat or her Tam o’ Shanter will be encircled with a rib- bon bearing in letters of gold tha name of the ship of ships; the scarf about her throat will be tied in a sailor knot; her morning gown will be blue and white, and its broad lar will be embroidered with anchors, while her girdle will b> a succession of brass naval buttons, linked with small chains and fastened with a shield bearing the insignia of the United States navy. Thus will the dear girls evince their pa- triotism, and though they may not shoulder a musk3t or tread the deck of a man-of- war, they can at least comfort themselves that while their soldier and sailor sweet- hearts are fighting far off for a noble cause they wear over their hearts ths emblems which from the first year of our glorious in- dependence have been dear to every Ameri- can citizen. eee. The Picturesque Gainsborough. From the Woman's Home Companion. The ever pretty and graceful Gainsbor- cugh hat is one of the most popular shapes for the summer, and is trimmed with a drooping effect, veiling the flowers with chiffon, net or lace. Most of the hats are to be worn quite far over the face, while the small toque, turban and bonnet shapes are set back to show. the pompadour ar- rangem2nt of the hair, which is dressed fluffy, with an occasional lock straying over the forehead. One of the best shapes in straw for general wear has a brim that rolls on either side and extends out over the face, while the back Is quite short and fits the hair snugly. Entire hats are made of a lacy matérial woven of straw, some of them having fanciful bows and rosettes cf the same odd fabric. The smooth as well as the fancy woven plateau of mohair is caught up in odd shapes with buckles or fancy pins, and is trimmed together @ suitable street or traveling THE EVENING STAR SATURDAY, MAY 21, 1898-24 PAGES, HOUSEHOLD HINTS In the bursting wave of red, white and vlue that has overflowed the boroughs of Manhattan, the Bronx and Brooklyn no possibility for its display has gone un- recognized, and the windows of the great city are a study. Passing along the streeis rew after row of hcuses are seen with the curtains looped back with the tri-colors, while in many cases patriotism goes so Zar as to call for entire lambrequins next the window cunningly devised out of the raped flags. Fido and pussy may also be met in every square, smart in the national eclors, and the humble horse of the dray- man, milkman or iceman boasts cockddes that make him for the time being a radiant exponent of the sentiments of his loyal driver. No Turkish corner or hammock aray be considered properly equipped with- out a cushion of the stars and stripes, and vo girl thinks her wardrobe complete until a shirt waist, a tie or a pair of silk stock- ings, or all three, evidence her loyalty to her country. Every shop window from the florists to the bakers shows “Old Glory” imitated In flowers, cakes, candies, ribbons, dress goods, vegetables, fruits, bonnets and costumes. In ridding a heus2 of ants, the first step, if possible, is to locate the nest by follow- ing the workers back to their point of en- trance and there destroying the colony. ‘This may be done !f the nest is in a wall by injecting disulphide of carbon or a littl2 kerosere. If the species has its colonies un- der the flagging of the yard, the nesis may be drenched with boiling water or satu- rated with kerosene and thus easily de- stroyed; but if it is the kind that builds a system of underground gallerizs, bisulphide of carbon must then be poured into each of a number of holes made in the nest with a stick and then promptly close th: holes with the foot. In this case the bisulphide . will penetrate the tunneis underground and kill the ants in enormous quantities. If it is impossible to locate the nests, th2re is no resource but to destroy the ants wnenever found in the house. The best means to do this, according to the testimony of govern- mental experts, is to attract the ants to small bits of sponge moistened with sweet- ened water and placed in the situations where they are most numerous. These sponges may be collzcted several times daily and scalded. It is also reported that a sirup made by dissolving borax and sugar in boiling water will effect their destruc- tion. There has been a great advance in the style of mattings recently imported, and the old-fashioned matting users accustom- ed only to the prim checkerboard pattern which formerly ruled the day, hardly recognize the straw matting of quaint and artistic patterns and colorings that now prevail. Although the Chinese mattings are durable, they lack the grace and beauty ef the Japanese importations. Many of the new patterns resemble tapestry in the shading and arrangement of the figures. Some have almost the appearance of vel- vet, with an embossed pattern, while others resemble silk fabrics, with an exquisite burnished sheen. In colorings there is in- finite variety, embracing pale straw color effects, deep’ marocns, wonderful velvety greens, and soft biues. Among the pat- terns recently noted were clovers, autumn leaves, chrysanthemums and bunches of conventionalized flowers, each scattered over varying harmonicus backgroun.) These mattings range from 50 cents to dollar per squere vard, but their wearing qualities are excellent. No housekeeper can afferd to be without a scrap book for :he preservation of “he thousand and one things that impress her s worth referring te a second time. Pend- their final arrangement, a_tempora arrangement that has proved ny sat velopes, a dozen or so, various subjects they contain, and bound ‘actory Is the utilization of large en- marked with the together in a linen cover, stiffened with teboard. The pasteboard is cut in two Pieces the size of the envelopes, while the linen is wide enough to cover the sides and leave abundance of room for the back. Two stout silken threads piercing the lower edges of the envelopes and loosely tied hold them in place. The envelopes may be marked ‘ick Diet,” “The Nursery,’ “Furnishings,” ‘Sanitary Hints,” ‘Lun- cheons,” “Entertaining” and the like, to correspond with their several contenis. While spinach is now conomic housewife posse tastes will see that a steck of green color- ing is put up for later use, in coloring candies, frostirgs and ices for the popular green teas or luncheons. Wash thorough- ly two or three quarts of tender spinac Drain well, pick the leaves from the ste tie them in a picce of coarse muslin, a pound to a pulp. Squeeze out the juice, then add a tiny bit of water to the pup and squeeze again. Put the juice in a little granite saucepan cn the range, and when it begins to curdle or separate, strain through a hair sieve. The thick part left is the coloring matter. This may then be Gried in the sun, mixed with an equal quantity ef powdered sugar and put in a can for future use. . the esthetic Whether a Spanish omelet by any other name would taste better, is a question that may be pondered while testing, but the fact remains that it is an appetizing Gish, despite its unpopular name. To six ez allow one-quarter pound of best Lacon, four or five fresh mushrooms, a tablespoonful of chopped onlon and one tomato, Cut the bacon into dice and fry crisp. Add the tomato, onion and mush- rooms, cut fine and stew for ten minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Haye the eggs beaten light, as for an omelet, an3 cook in another frying pan with a table- spconful of butter. When set, pour over them the hot baccn mixture, fold and serve. Strangest of all flavorings to the usual cook who oscillates between lemon and vanilla is champhor, yet that is one high- ly esteemed by the Hindoos. One of the Swamis, who has been extremely popular here as a teacher, has occasionally con- cocted some of his national dishes for the delectation of his admlrers, and a strange- ly familiar, yet unfamillar, taste was found to be just a suspiclon of camphor. Another seasoning that is both delicate and uncommon is made from browned pop- corn, ground fine. The old idea that children should be mace to go to sleep'in the dark, under all circumstances, is no longer held, physi- ans declaring that, as a rule, there should be a night light, especially if a child Js at all nervous or afraid. Children are sometimes aiflicted with a disease known as “nceturnal terrors,” and they should be treated by a physician. Many mothers do not realize that it Is a disease and aggravate it by scolding and punish- ment. Strawbérry sandwiches are appearing at afternoon teas, where they as speedily dis- appear. The fine French bread or tender baking powder biscuit serves as the “bind- ing” for large sweet berries, sliced and sprinkled with sugar. Sometimes a spoon- ful of whipped cream is added to the ber- ries. If in the spring cleaning the corners of drawers and closet floors are scalded with hot potash water, allowing a tablespoon- ful of the potash to a half gallon of water, germs of a noxious kind and insects’ eggs will be destroyed and the air of the house sweetened and purified. A “smart savoury” comes from London, and may be tried by the woman who dotes on things English, “Take some cooked French beans,” ssys the recipe, “flavor with salt and a little sugar and mix with whipped cream. Serve well-iced in china pannikins. oe Mourning. From the St. Louls Globe-Democrat. The custom of wearing mourning is of an antiquity so great that its origin fs un- certain, and no practice so widely diffused as this is more variable. From forty days to a yew is ccmmonly considered ‘the proper time in Europe and America for wearing mourning, but circumstances greatly vary from this approximate rule. Courts go into mourning for seven to thirty days. Mourning 1s displayed upon public buildings generally about a month, and mourwing for a relative depends upon the nearness of the relationship. We are ac- customed to think of black as the only mourning color, but almost every color of the rainbow 1s used somewhere in the world a3 an emblem of ;- black and white striped in the Sea islands, grayish brown in Ethiopia, pale brown in Persia; sky blue, Syria and Armenia; deep blue, Bokhare; and violet in France; PATRIOTIC IN DRESS Women Are Wearing the National Colors in Profusion. DANGER OF CARRYING IT T00 PAR Some Uses to Which Old Glory May Be Properly Put. HINTS ON SUMMER STYLES Special Correspondenee of The Evening Star. (Copyright, 1898, by the International Literary Serv! NEW YORK, May 20, 1898. YOUNG WOMAN who was inspecting flag handkerchiefs And other varieties of bunting a few days ago revealed to the clerk in her discus- sion of sizes, quali- ties of silk, ete., that her purchases were mé®ant to cover ham- méck cushions Sweeping the bunting brusquely off the counter, the clerk de- clined to wait on the lads “Madam,” he said, “we do not seli the Stars and stripes for any such purpose.” The young woman flushed with indig- nation, but in a moment she understood. said final! “1 believe you are:righty” shi i thark you. ; A club of athletic girls—bicyclists and golfists—who have been: smitten with the present nia for wearing the’ flag, have aid down for tlremselyes, after animated discussion, a set of rules as to what they will or will not regard as permissible. The principle they have agreed to recognize is that the national emblem must serve no utilitarian or undignified purpose. Where- ever it appears it must be as a badge of honor; something by which distinction is conferred on the wearer, and not as some- thing reduced to fulfill the wearer's needs. For example, a club member who appear- ed at the rendezvous for a bicycle run in the latest style of shoe, an Oxford tie with top of flag canvas and flag lining, was dis- ciplined promptly. The flag must not be trodden under foot nor used as shoe leath- er. By a somewhat subtle distinction flag ribbons are permitted as hat bands, but flag sashes are frowned upon, unless the field of stars is omitted; red and white stripes are not forbidden. Flag buckles, studs, sleeve-links, ete, are worn by some of the girls, disapproved wholly by others. Flag handkerchiefs are not allowed. Use of the Flag. ‘The attitude of the club toward the use of the flag was made public in a Imited way at a breakfast offered to its guesis at a golf club house much used by the wormen and turned over to them for the entertain- ment by its masculine owners. The house was trimmed inside and out with flags, and red, white and blue ribbons were used for table decorations. “Why not have thrown a fiag over the table, as Mrs. So-and-So did at her big din- ner party?” asked one of the invited. “Use the stars and stripes for a table cloth?” retorted a club girl. “I'd as soon take then for petticoats, as they say some women are doing.” The club girls pledge themselves to fly flags from their houses, carry ‘them upon their wheels and wear the national colors as badges on the shoulder; there most of them think good taste cails a halt. But red, white and blue can be worn in almost any picturesque way a woman desires without necessity for degrading Old Glory. There 1s nothing to offend the most sen- sitive taste in combining the beloved colors in one’s dress so as to declare one's alle- giance, withcut pulling down the coun- try’s emblem to wrap up one’s throat or button one’s blouse over. In the National Colors. A woman, several of whose male rela- tlves have vcluntesred, sang at a “recep- tien with music’ a few days ago in a princess dress composed of an exquisite blue net over white mull. The net was cleverly draped, leaving the front of the tulle skirt partly uncovered. The bodice ‘was a net bolero open in front and forming one with the skirt; it was held together at the neck and just above the waist by clasps of briiliants.’ 'The'white tulle sleeves fell well over the “hands. One touch of brilliant color was givery by a scarlet silk corselet, pointed at“theback, top and bot- tom, and going up'in 4 narrow peak in front, tapering before’ the throat was reached to scarcely more than the width of a line. Such a red, white and blue ar- rangement as this is unofficial, so to speak, and is artistic and effective. The graduating class of a fashionable pri- vate school In New York, who have agreed, like many classes throughout the country, on red; white and blue graduating dresses, have chosen an extr2mely pretty model. Differing in details, ‘the gowns are to be, as a rule, of white muglin with flounces edged narrowly with blue. A ‘tittle coat bodice will be thrown back with blue-edg2d revers, end two narrow sgshes will pass around the waist, ons of red ribbon’ fastening in a small bow, while other of blue ribbon is finished with lorig ends. The long, trane- parent sleeves will b2 edged with blue at the wrist. A Patriotic Bride. I have seen a bride's traveling wrap which is of some interest in this connection. cut in the latest and smartest shape, strap- ped about the front and sleeves about the collar with a pretty white plaid silk; {t has a red silk the waist, by Extremely narrow red or vel- Vet ribbon. Semewhat different from th> ard-blues alreacy described and more deli- cate in its harmonies than most of them is x00n dress of nun's veiling almost and soft as crepe de chins. The r is a pale shade o. gray. A narrow pufting of white chiffon simulates a polo- naiso upon the skizt. The bodice is a dainty ttle zouave edged with white puffing, lined with scarlet and op2ning over a full vest of blue chiffon over white silk. A white chif- fon sash is tied in a bunchy fashion at the left side.of the front, the frilled ends fall- 5 to the hem of the Splendid ¢ Of course the distinctly out-door dresses, whether in serge or pique, afford red-white- ard-bhieness every cpportunity. For exam- ple, a boating dress in blue serge has a col- lar of white cloth set on around the shoul- ders. At the neck the gown opens in a square shape to show a tucked red silk The costume is further trimmed with rrow gold braid and brass butto: Again, a bicycle dress of hu serge is worn with white kid revers ceat and with a red silk blouse. The kid appears a second time in a narrow wh belt, and the coat is braided, not too pro- fusely, with goid. A dress of navy blue hopsacking for coun- try wear is draped over a simultated under- skirt of red and white plaid silk and trim. with stitched bands of the material - intervals. The bodice has c s of the red and white which form square epaulets on the shoulders. Carried to E : It goes without ing that white duck th biue reefer coats aml red red-white- sa er summer gi te throughout the season. Also that every shade of military blue and gi well the American ver- sion of “khaki will be popuiar. But there ch a thing as reducing patriot! > triviality of a ‘ 2 a matter of holiday costuming Where- no gun metal and there are no B or flag s about the ewith summitted tea go: A robe of white nun’s veiling has a kind of Watteau drapery at the back. In front it opens over an under gown also of white nun’s veiling. Pale yellow guipure insertion is set in at inter a curious scarf draperi yellow guipure are thrown about the shoulders. A pale blue silk sash shows at the sides fastening under the Watteau and passing through the front without sash ends. More blue appears in a large bow at back of the neck wnd in loops on the left shoulder. A long black net searf is fantastically draped in front and behind. ELLEN OSBORN, ——-+ es. THE 1898 WALK. To Be in Style You Must Cultivate the New Mannerisms. From ttt New Yerk Herald. There is an “1898 walk” for women, and all the girls in New York who pride them- selves on being fuily ‘abreast of the times are learning it. It is quite the “rage” on the “avenue” and the adjacent side streets, and is b<ing imitated on less fashionable promenade: In essence the new feminine walking phi- josvphy is this—you must walk along quiet- ly and calmly, with much shorter steps than you took during the winter, stepping out on the full foot and not the ball of the foot alone, and with your arms held down by your side, and not swinging. The new walk is far more graceful and effective than any of the fashionable walks for the last half dozen years previous to sm to nd treating war *'98 walk’? combines athletic vigor with repose of manner, and has not the Tush and exaggerated energy of the pe- destrian exercise lately insisted upon by the modern girl. The keynote of the Popu- lar walk of the last winter was the long step and the swinging of the arms. In their attempts to get as far away as pos- sible from the little steps and quiet mo- tions of their grandmothers the girls went to the opposite extreme. They have now returned to a golden mean. The spring and summer girl of 1898 steps out with steps that are neither short nor song, firmly and making use of her entire foot. Her arms hang naturally down, the wrists resting against her frock and the backs of her hands toward the front. Thus the palms are turned inward, the fingers being slightly curled. There is no move- ment of the arms, the body does not sway and the only motion is that of the hips. Her head is bent forward a trifle, and both chin and eyes are dropped. The attitude of the moment, in a word, is quiet and demure. Reasons, as a usual thing, can be found for every new fashion, and the reason of the dropping forward of the head and the lowering of the eyes can be discovered in the tilting of many of the walking hats of the day well over the forehead. All last winter the well dressed modish girl threw her head well back, and her shoulders, too, Were erect, and ske took long, bold steps. It followed quite naturally that she opened her eyes exceedingly wide also and looked straight forward. But the coming in of the tilting hats, pulled still further over the face by veils, has made this mannerism quite out of the question and bro.ght about a completely new fashion of street demeanor. Whether She likes it or not once arrayed in one of the new hats the girl that would be in style must tip her head forward instead of throwing it back. Long steps, it may be seen at once, do not go well with this pose, nor do swinging arms. ee Elastic Shoestrings. From the San Francisco Chronicle, other similar. articles. They are far super- for to the old styles 6f elastic cords, which are made both there and here. They are remarkably strong and durable, and give @ play to the muscles and joints, which Prevents stiffness and “discomforts. For low shoes they are simply delightful, as they enable one to have a laced shoe, which is the neatest and trimmest of ali footwear, and at the same time to have the give and yielding quality which is the charm of elastic gaiters.’ a Jemon skins pitcher on the on Ito the bath are i RE Bought by the Government. Cleveland's baking wder is pur- chased by the U.S. Government for the use of families of Army Officers. This is a guarantee of quality, for leveland’s Baking Powder was Officially analyzed and found ‘to be a pure cream of tartar powder or it Would not have been bought. Cleveland Baking Powder Co., New York. DRES Much in the Style of Those for Grown-Up j People. Sallor Suits Agnin the Rage—Shirt Waists for Little Girls—Made- over Clothes. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, May 19, 1898. The up-to-date woman cannot nowadays pay quite all of her attention to her own gowns, making for her children simple slips of gingham for morning and white slips for afternoon. The children of today are dressed very much as their elders are. Their fashions, tor this year, inaeed. fol- low so closely the trimmed models preva- lent among grown ups that they lose al- most entirely the sweet simplicity which one associates with childhood. As long as children yearn for the posses- sions of their elders and Dame Fashion aids and abets them by the models she puts forth for their wear the sensible mother will have a difficult time reconciling her own ideas of the fitness of things with the eager plea for advanced styles which will reach her from the nursery. For children are often more critical and more observing n their eiders, and are also keenly sen- e to the comments of their playmates upon their apparel. The blouse waist for little girls was most charming, and fortunately it has not disap- 2red from their fashion plates as it has from ou Little frocks with plain skirts and bleuse waists of light woolens are found among gowns for girls from eight to fourteen years of age. Girls ler eight are apt to be chubby, so for them a ga- brielle effect is more popular. The skirts of gingham, cotton, lawn or silk gowns are made with a gored front and side breadths and plain back, or a gored front breadth with straight breadths at sides and back, or n skirts simply fulled in at the waist. It will thus be seen that in skirts there has been little change. Pretty Waists. The prettiest waists are made with a and this yoke may be of the most elaborate material, or it may be of plain, sheer muslin, embroidered, plaited, shirred or tucked. It is a good plan to have one little skirt with suspenders, or rather the effect of suspenders simulated by straps of the material across the shoulders, to be worn with muslin waists. This convenient and sensible fashion is as popular as here- tofore, and is of great advantage during the summer months if laundering is a mat- ter to be considere The sailor suit so well knowy and beloved of children at least a dozen years ago is again to the fore, and in ft the little sister may dress much as her little brother does. and thus follow the example of sisters of an older growth. The sailor suit of today is made of serge or cheviot, and is braided not only about the collar, but round and round the blouse, as well as round and round the skirt. The sleeves are made very small and over them is a round or pointed can, also ornamented with braid. For children’s gowns there will never be anything niore becoming or youthful than the guimpe and the yoke, and now that guimpes, yokes and seshes are yery pcop- ular most mothers will have many of the little gowns made with either one or the other and a sash as adjuncts. The yoke and sash>s, however, are quite as becom- ing to girls who have passed their four- teenth yeer. One of the prettiest models n this spring is of Yale blue cash- mere, with a yoke of dark red silk. The sleeves are of the silk, and the skirt is plain and rather fuli. About the waist is a sash or the silk, which may either be Knotted at on2 side, with ends hanging to the hem of the gown, or tied in a bow in the middle of the back. Seem So Grown Up. The shirt waist is a perfect delight to growing girls. One of them who received one lately on her ninth birthday rapturous- ly showed it to every one as “my first real shirt waist.” She preferred it to several berdsome ornaments which had come from a generous cousin, because it seemed so “grown up.” Shirt waists for children may be bought in any size, and save a great dea! of bother on the score of dress, for they can be worn endlessly with a skirt and coat. These skirts should always have wide belts, which may be cut in various pretty and ornamental ways, pointed, for irstance. And from the belts there should be straps of the materials going over the shoulders. The straps may be buttoned on with fancy buttons, and will prove a great help in keeping the weight of a_child’s skirte on her shoulders instead of about her tender waist. Chitdren’s coats are usually made in either reefer or Eton jacket effects. Open blazer coa:s are not protection enough in case of sudden changes in the temperature. Double-breasted coats, half-fitting in the back, with a strap from one under seam to the other, buttoned down to hold the coat in, are very popular. Like their el- ders in these days of silk lining, little folk have their coats lined with taffeta of some gay weave. Children under ten years of age do not, as a rule. wear these coat and skirt costumes, but they are to be had ready-made for children from that age on- ward, and <hey solve a great problem for the anxious mother. They can be bought quite reasonably, but, of course, they can also be most successfully made at home. Ready-made garments for children have scived a long-mooted problem, ani now- adays there is more leisure in the house- holds of busy mothers who were orce obliged to make every stitch worn by their children. An Eye to Economy. But if economy is to be considered, it is, o£ course, far better to have a seamstress and make the clothes at home. One can Secure excellent patterns for every model shown in the shops. Dark blue linen is much used for chil- dren’s gowns, and the sweet old fashion of lewns with insertions of lace over slips of a contrasting shade are again to the fore. These slips are usually made of lawn, al- though one can have them of lining in any desired shade, and some extravagant moth- ers thiftk silk none too good for their pets. SES FOR CHILDREN| li SUMMER FURNISHINGS, A Chapter on Things That Le Charm to a Country House. From the Philadelphia Record. Simplicity is now the watchword of the woman who is furnishing her summer home dd whether at shore or country, | or mountain, her pretty cottage is fresh and cool and siry and as free from a stuffy effect its clever owner can nake it. If the floors are of hard wood soft-colored Japanese rigs are thrown here and there, aud always with a utilitarian purpo: fore a couch, a capacious willow a‘ the foot of the staircase where there is much wear. Or if there are only the or- dinary unpolished wood floors then nothing is prettier than the figured Chinese” or blain-colored mattings and a few jute rugs both of which are inexpensive i serv- iceatle. Basket and willow furnitur hall and living room is the correct thin and if upholstered should be done in glish chintz or cretonne. The _ brill flower patterns are now much in vogu | i] possibly and with bat little trouble one can devise eme in poppies, wild d a charming flower s roses or the glorious, many-h A! beavy materials are rigidly eschewed. and not one square inch of plush shoula be permitted within the four walls of the country home—that is, if simplicity be the ynote of its furni: hings. uperies, if draperies are should always serve a purpos: ever possible Light Japanese screens make a pretty and graceful substitute for the hexvier hangings. Portieres for dining room orchid. used at all, and wher- and living room are indispensable, but these should be of denim, chintz or tapest ything heavy or with dencies, For bed rooms the clean brass or white iron bedstead will found a joy to the careful housekeeper, and here again in- stead of lace aad satin bedspre let thers be white dimity spreads such as our grandmothers delighted in, and _piliow es of pure white linen, guiltless «f trim- ing or elabcrate embroider The question of window curtains in a summer house is er of climate as rsonal tasic orsiderat ially in 1s afford rays of the sun ented by awnings or Japane side a room so shielded will » hot, or worse still, “glarey, stmmer. Many | the pr ing un t_ where they should be -eping chambers. mple pro and if s n i even in mid- housekespers, however, tiness of a house-is entir. Ss are hung, and in swiss or tambour 1 lir. will be found in keeping with the other furnishings. A flowered chintz valance. matching the cushions on the basket chairs, }makes a quaint finish across the top of a casement window, and should be hered very full and hung on a light SS red. Jardin:eres filled with plants or cut field flowers should stand in hall and htving room, and then h the addition of a li eral supply of books end newspapers and magazines one has #n ideal summer home. E FOR Bi Commit Slow P: Their Compiexion’s Sake. San Francise BARTER LI AUTY. Women W for Frem the Society women who use the deadly arsenic wafer for the complexion are increasing in numbers, according to a prominent physi- cian of this city. Though arsenic is known to be harmful, “madame of society” forgets this in her earnest search for something to take the {place of the legendary Fountain of Youth. j When the first tiny crow’s feet begin to appear she is suddenly reminded to take stock of her charms. Late hours, rich food and want of proper exercise have done j their work. The mudéy complexion must be driven away, but not at the sacrifice of social dis- sipations which sum up her happiness. Somebody in her set suggests arsenic. “But it’s poison!” “Oh, no. Don’t take too much of it. is large doses you should guard against. A few weeks pass before the effects of the slow poison are visible. The clouded skin has gradually given place to white- ness. No unpleasant symptoms result for a long time, and the consumer of arsenic wafers is thrown off her guard. When the evils do come she does not for a moment attrib- ute them to the proper source. The first effects of the arsenic wafers is to gradually destroy the small blood vessels in the skin; therefore, unnatural whiteness, which a delicate rouge is called in to re- lieve. Long continuation of the use of ar- senic brings many ills in its train. The di- gestive organs become sadly out of order; loss of appetite follows, and madame finds her body is wasting. She sits before her dressing table and gazes sadly at her white, attenuated countenance, with its fast-in- creasing defects. Late hours and impru- dent eating all get the blame. Her physi- cian is not informed of the arsenic wafers, and other prescribed drugs, therefore, in- crease the disturbed state of the system. Convulsions, loss of sleep, headaches, rapid heart action, delirium and other terrible symptoms are the result often of a continu- ation of the habit. Worse calamity of: all, madame’s Iily- white skin, like the flower it resembles, is not lasting in its fairness. If she is wise enough to guess the cause of her illness and confesses it to her medical adviser, she may be relieved. But she will by that time have destroyed her appearance to such an extent that she will never regain what she has lost. Chronic It a ees har ee ‘The Handkerchief Belt. Trom the New York Herald. There is a new belt. You thought they bad used everything under the sun for them, but you were mistaken. The newest newness In that line 2s a muffler belt, or, what its name implies, a silk handkerchief made into a girdle. There are two designs. One is made by folding the big brilliant silken square until it forms a narrow band, measuring from corner to corner abow forty-six inches when stretched out. Th: is brought around the waist, hiding the skirt band and place where the bodice and skirt meet, and taken around to the side and knotted in two flowing ends, fasiened