Evening Star Newspaper, May 7, 1898, Page 20

~ THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MAY 7, 1898—24 PAGES. - EARLY SUMMER GOWN Goosright. rane, by 8. M-Raldwin, PARISIAN as FASHIONS Felix Describes Some Spring and Summer Novelties. — FAMILIAR FABRICS WITH NEW NAMES Charming Evening Gowns of Dif- ferent Shades and Materials: LATE FADS IN -MILLINERY eg Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. PARIS, April 28, 1898. The advent of each new season brings with it such a bewildering vocabulary of new names for materials and colors that 4t is hard to realize that all these new tex- tiles must be included in the well-known category of silks, woolens, linens or cot- ters, and that the invcmerable tints are all evolved from the seven original prismatic colors Couturieres and modistes have the self- asserted privilege of callmg old things by new names, little caring for the confusion which this privilege engenders. Thus, for irstance, we find faced cloths masquerad- ing as drap sat, peau de chevreau, peau de chamois, drap gant and peau de gazelle —all of which te uninitiated would include in the simple an} out-of-date conception of “broadcloth.” Colors follow the same perplexing rule, i the new nam: are given to shades of color that happen to be in vogue, although they may be well known under other des- ignations. Two new shades of violet are now taiked of a and “Mar- Buerite Reine is a sugges- tive name for blood-red, as “‘styx” is for a somber gray. “Hesperides” for orange yel- low would show that fashion sometimes dives into the depths of history and myth- ology to bring out scmething new. Cam- pagna is a new appellation for eucalyptus, chosen because these trees grow pientifully about Rome. Blues and Browns, Among the wealth and variety of colors, blue will be promirent in innumerable shades, those leaning toward violet pre- dominating. Butchers’ blue, called in Paris “bleu paysa lavender, hyacinth, per- venche and iris are particularly favored, and are ofte combined with yellows and such greens as celeri and campagna, ivy and bright emerald, particularly by the milliners. Browns will not be neglected. Fawns and beiges are the color of many chic cloth toilettes, and a bright shade of nastur- ‘tiem brown wil be used for evening dresses or hats. haded effect is will play an important and d charming evening gowns done in different materials les, all of one color, how- ard different s! ever. ‘Thus, a most becoming gown to be worn ft sof tt FOR STREET WEAR. at a fee champetre this summer by a yeung lady is of pale roze chiffon over cerker rose satin. The skirt, a l’espagnole, three flounces of chiffon, each lower flounce being of a darker shade than the upper. The belt is of folded mirroir vel- 2 and the gown th roses of every imaginable ink, from the pale blush rose to darkest vermilion. Models in Millinery. The same fancy is observed more forc in millinery. Some of the newest mod toques have crowns composed of three felds of velvet in graduated shades. Os- trich feathers and quills are seen shaded way or from one color into r, as blue into green or brown into A new idea is to curve the stiff feathers at the base instead of the tip, which fash- fon has indorsed them with a n “plume revolver,” on account of th resemblance to a pistol. The scoffer who calls the modern hat a flower-bedecked Tower of Babel is not far from wrong.. It seems as if fashion, loath to give up the ci-devant amplitude of the skirt and balloon sleeve, had allowed exag- geration of form to go to the head, for the prettiest female head is now topheavy un- der the fashionable overloaded hat. For- tunately, the headgear is not as. heavy as it looks, as it consists mostly of flowers and gossamer tissues. Masses of beautiful pink roses form a favored decoration for new toques and round hats. Ostrich feathers in front and compact clusters of leafless roses at the back is a style of trimming persistently re- peated. ‘Besides roses, delicate spring flow- ers, like the viotet, jonquil and narcissus, are much employed in combination with crinkled straws and crinkled chiffons. Black lace incrustations on white chiffon is profusely used with shaded red and pink Toses as a trimming for large white straw hats. A Stylish Design. Our model shows a novel employment of incrustations of ecru Russian iace inter- woven with gold thread on a gown of tan- colored cloth. The skirt of tan-colored cloth is quite plain, and cut as a drop skirt over a foundation of violet satin. The only dec- oration consists of exquisite points of rich ecru Russian lace interwoven with gold thread and appliqued at the front. The cloth is slashed where the lace is attached, and, showing the violet satin of the under, skirt, is caught at intervals by square but- tons of enameled gold studded with ame- thysts. The back of the bodice is of cloth, and Is adjusted closely to the figure. The front shows a very. novel .arrangement. The cloth is cut away from the under-arm seams, and is shaped into a point in front, where it is gathered into the belt of violet velvet, closing with a square buckle of en- ameled gold and amethysts. The violet satin disclosed by the cutting away of the cloth forms a full blouse which close; in front under the cloth, which in turn fast- ens: diagonally over the chest with a trim- ming of Iace and buttons like those on the skirt. Points of lace form the cuff of the slightly fulled sleeves and the tabs of the turned-over collar. A toque of roses and violets, with full loops of violet satin ribbon, complete the costume. » housekeeper will find it to her ad- ¢ not only to make much present use but to stor: it up for ceming days. Ehubarb arned with equal quantities of pineapples and cranberries is recommended 85 a delicious combination. pink effects for the popular “color teas” ray be obtained by canning pin-apple when young and tender with the skin on. A good pot familtarly known can be made of pic piant. do not pe in th water Pale green and Wash the stalks thoroughly-—but Pieces. Put Preserving kettle with just cnough to cover and boil to a soft pulp. ugh a jelly bag. To each pint of id of sugar and have d through before adding to which should have been al- the b With the wholesome rhubarb now at its bane a lowed to boil twenty minutes. As soon as the sugir is dissolved, withdraw th2 spoon. Holi che jelly cups or glasses in hot water, then nll with the feily. It is now claimed by chemists that light is a powerful agent in fermentation, and for that reasoa bowls are now largely us2d in place of eal tne bowls of jelly with writ- using the white of an egg for An .extra precaution ts a layer »iding tied closely over the top. a it is a cer- the entrance of germ asse of veal is usually made ek or thick parts of the loin eal cut in pieces the size of those used from the n of ¥ im the ordinary potpie. Put into the-bot- tom ef an jron kettle a few small pieces of beef suet or fat pork, and fry until brown, but not at all blackened. Put in the + of veal and let them become a rich brown on all sides; then cover with B& pint of stock, or, failing that, boiling kle with salt and pepper, and on back of’ range or in the brown a tablespoonful of onion end one of carrot, cut fine, and add to the veal, which must simmer slowly but con- tinually. Baste occasionally, adding more stock or water if the gravy becomes re- Buced. When tender, which will be in an bour and a half or two hours, dish inside a border of rice or mashed potato. Thicken the gravy with a teaspoonful of flour, cook five minutes, strain and pour over the meat. Cidered ham is an old Pennsylvania dish, that might have been set before William Penn himself. Wash and scrub a rather small ham and soak for twenty-four hours. Wipe dry, put in a large granite or agate kettle and cover with cid2r, neither too Sweet nor yet hard. Boil gently, allowing about fifteen minutes to the pound. When tender allow it to cool in the cider. Serve with a garnish of aspic jelly and vegeta- bles, or slice thin and serve by {tself or in sandwiches. In placing the refrigeratcr sce that it Is put where it can be well lighted and drained, never allowing the drain pipe to connect with the sewer. A refrigerator in bad condition is a menace to health. Once a’ week, at least, take everything movable from the interior, wash in hot soap suds, rinse with soda water, wipe dry and put outdoors in the sun for an hour to dry. Wash the refrigerator thceroughly in the ame way, using a flexible wire for the dain pipe-end skewers for the corners and grcoves. For immediate use, rhubarb baked in the oven is better than stewed. Allow a cup of sugar to each pint of fruit; add a very nall quantity of water; cover closely and bake until the rhubarb is soft. Do not stir, Rhubarb may also be strained in @ double boiler, using little or no water. Small pieces of toilet soap, too little to be used separately, may be utilized by. putting into a small bag of Turkish toweling or cheesecloth, and using that as if it were a cake of s0ap. : A pinch of powdered saffron under each wing of your pet canary will rid him of the bird lice that make life @ burden to him. Brooms hung in the cellarway will keep soft and pliant and wear longer than kept in the dry air of the kitchen. If flour ts sprinkled « ‘over suet wnen {t being chopped, it will prevent from adhering together. it ts the pieces . -——PSUBGESTIONS FOR AMATEUR GARDENERS, —._—__ Written for ‘The Evening Star. is The rose retains its sovereignty over the floral kingiiom, in spite of all pretenders. ‘Volumes have been written concerning its history, and millions of dollars are in- vested every year in its culture and propa- gation. The sending out of a new rose has crowned many an obscure brow with Jaurels. And it is not strange that so mech importance should be attached tu this subject, for like most things worth hav- ing, fine roses must be worked for. Indeed, so laborious and difficult is their culture that amateurs who are not able to erploy skilled gardeners should confine themsvives to a few of the tried and trusted suits. No plant so resents unsuitable environments and careless treaiment; none so richly re- wards intelligent care. For the convenience of those who have neither time nor inclination to study ir.to details, roses may be divided into two great classes—the summer-biooming oc. hybrid perpetuals and the ever-blooming or hybrid teas. ‘Those belonging to the first class are in every respect the most desiraple for out- door cultwre, for though blooming (most of trem) but once, they make up for that de- ficiency a hundred-told by their st: Leau- ty, hardiress, growth and profusion of bicom. The adjective “perpetuar’ applies only to a few of this class, the favorite La france and Mrs. John Laing being two of | the most notable exceptions. The follow- ing is a short list of desirable hardy roses, bicoming early in summer, and cnly occa- sicnally thereafter. Gen. Jacqueminot, red; Magna Charta, pink; Paul Neyron, pink, Dintmore, red; Capt. Christy, fesi- color; Summer Queen, pink; Mabel Morri- sen, white; Margaret Dickson, white. An oid favorite, especially adapted to planting in cemeteries, is Madam Piantier. In selecting from these bear in mind that they are not “ever-blooming” roses, with the two exceptions noted, and spare your- self disappointment and vexation. A brief list of good, dependable tea roses that should bicom corstantly is now given: Pearl of the Garden, yellow; Souvenir de Weotton, red; the Bride, white; Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, white; Madame de Wat- teville, creamy pink; Mamon Cochet, scar- let; Princess Bonnie, scarlet; Pink Sou- perks Clotide Soupert, blush; Sunset, yel- low. The list might be indefinitely extended, but ail these mentioned may be relied upon to give variety and profusion of bloom the entire season if properly cared for. Roses reqvire a deep, rich soll, somewhat clayey, und 2 sunny exposure, though preferably where they are shaded from the afternoon sun. Give them plenty of room, Water and occasional stimulants in the way of liquid manure, bone dust or other plant In selecting take no plants that have yel- low or spotted foliage. That shows that they are suffering from mildew, and on diseased plant will infect your whole col- lection. Petter buy strong, healthy young plants, one or two years old, than o!d ones which have been forced and exhausted. After a rose bush has finished blooming cut the old shoots back two or three inches. ‘This will cause them to put out new shoots, and it is these which produce the finest blooms. The insect enemies of the rose are legion. Most common is the aphis or green If present in great numbers they in- he young shoots and incipient buds epair. Spraying with tobacco tea or soap suds or dusting with white helle- bore are the mea recommended for the extermination of this pest. From erience I should y that this be rej reproductive lous. Ry at for the of the powers The only thing to do eeth and spray or sponge ‘aly at them, keeping it up from genera- tion unto gene ion, until the plants are large and strong enough to bear their at- tacks. As to the slugs, chafers, etc., that appear later on, the only remedy is “hand- picking” and mashing—not precisely an en- joyable operation, but {f you want fine flowers you must not be too “nice.” There is a lot of dirty, back-breaking work to be gotten through with before the delightful result appears. Next to the rose must’ be ‘placed ‘the chrysanthemum, or, for convenience, the “"mum,” as florists say. If you have in your garden beds fine clumps from last year’s planting, do not despise them be- cause the professional florist does. All theirs are raised from cuttings on new reots, but your old plants will give an abundance of lovely flowers for those whom fortune has not pampered and spoiled. Re- move any “suckers”—that is, shoots from the main root—and set them out in some sbaded corner, to grow into nice plants for future use. Thin out some of the branches from the main stalk also, leaving, prefer- ably, those growing from the highest part. Follow the “pinching back” and “disbudding” process described later on. Secure young plants from the florist for potting. Set them first in four-inch pots in common garden loam, not forgetting « layer of pebbles, cinders or broken pottery in the bottom. Place the pots in an airy, rather shady place out of doors, and water every day as needed. When the plants are about six inches high pinch out the central leaf bud and all side shoots and suckers that may appear. New shoots will soon start near the top. In a month or so trans- fer the plants to six-inch pots and richer soil, and again about the middle of August to eight or nine-inch pots, in which they are to remain. li possible set them now on a board in a trench a foot deep and fill in around them with soil. Water freely, never letting the plants dry and wilt. Keep up ike pinching back process until August 1, then stop it. By this time you should have nice, stocky plants on one strong cen- tral stalk. The buds will soon appear. Now decide whether you want fewer and larger flowers or masses of medium-sized blooms. With a tiny pair of sharp scissors or a penknife remove more or less of the buds, leaving those that look most promis- ing. The fewer the buds the larger the blooms. This delicate cperation should be done when the buds are very small. Spray the plants -often and give liquid manure once a week. When frost is threatened re- move the pots from the trench and protect at night, either by covering with boxes or setting inside a shed or porch. As the blooms appear remove to the house, but not to a very warm room. As to varieties, the Japanese are the most_ picturesque, the pompons the hardiest. Space forbids a detailed list, but a few of the best are the George W. Childs, red; Mrs. Perrin, pink; Marian Henderson, yellow; Louis Boehmer, pink ostrich plume; Mrs. Hardy, white; Good Gracious, peach color, and Garnet, dark red. A few words about tender, summer- blooming bulbs. Foremost stands the gladiolus, which for magnificence of color and form, profusion of bloom and ease of culture, is without a rival. The bulbs can be had from $1 a hundred up to any big price one chooses to pay. Plant plenty of them in double rows and masses, bout six inches apart and four deep, in any good situation. They will need only ordinary care, As the flower stalks grow give them strong slender stakes as supports. The canna is another bulbous plant that makes a@ grand show where permanent effect is wanted, as its foliage alone is showy and beautiful. & The old-time favorite, the dahlia, is ngain to the front. A clump of these is a fine sight on the lawn or in the center of a large bed. The newer sorts are said to be superb. All these are tender bulbs that must be lifted before hard frost and stow- ed away until spring. JULIA SCHAYER. —_——— > Diagnosed. From Punch. I WHITE IS THE COLOR Most Popular This Summer for All Sorts of Gowns. DAINTY DRESSES FOR COUNTRY WEAR Season’s Styles Resemble Those of the Earlf Sixties. f THE NEWESI \SHIRT WAISTS Special Correspond (Copyright, 1808, by NEW, YORK, May 6, 1898. © ARE GOING TO have a white sum- emer. By some odd ‘oincidence or Qo ,strange chord of Sympathy, onr or- yy awendies and lawns nd. piques, our ruf- fles and ruches, in- sertions and puffs “~and tucks “are «ail taken, apparently, out of the old fash- fon books of . the eauly sixties; and much as women dressed when last their talk was of comforts and clothes for sol- diers, so—minus the the hoop skirts—are. they dressing now. Rosettes, fringes, Chantilly shawls, even artificial flowers for the hair, are all back again. We are ready for white muslin, blue sashes and flat hats with wreaths of roses. There 1s one important difference and it is not in our favor; the sound of ripping and reaJing, of the parting of a skirt from its foundations, is heard in the land much oftener than when crinoline kept our flounces off the floor. Wherever women are gathered, whether at church or recep- tion or theater, there (if the average well- intentioned man 1s present also. and who wishes to dispense with him?) the heart- breaking noise of snapping and tearing has become horribly familiar, telling the story of another long gown trodden on. At the last meeting of a certain notable women's club the effect of an impassioned appeal for patriotism was marred by a sudden loud report that swerved the sympathies of every person present from the eloquent speaker to the mortified little lady in black lace petticoats, whose entrance her care- less escort—another speaker—had so cruelly emphasized. The crux of the misery in all such cases is the impossibility of knowing just what damage bas been done. I faut souffrir pour etre belle has no application; it is necessary to suffer and, perhaps, be extremely unbeautiful. At a Country Heme. it is kicking against the pricks to rebel against a fashion. More profitable is the ccnsideration of such pretty white frocks as were seen at a spring dinner one day this week in a Hudson river country. house already opened for the season. The dining room was green and white. There are no better summer colors, provided always the right shade of green be hit upon. They give a perfect background for pictures, china, palms and flowers. The sunlight was but just gone and the memory of it was still m the branches of purple and white lilac and the great masses of pink and amber azaleas, The hostess wore a dress of soft ivory China silk, whose skirt was a froth of flcunces. Every flounce was two inches wide, edged with..lace and beaded with Narrow green ribbon, These little green nd white ripples..curved up toward the waist at the backj;and played over a nar- row skirt cf thg,dvary. silk, which in its turn was mount loosely over a green silk liniag. ‘The. lee was covered with little frills also and had a folded neck band and.sash of green.chiffon. One other whitedi was of ivory cash- were with an undei rt of Peto, —— showing through,,2, scarf o! e let into the skirt on iy ‘eight side. ‘The lace em- broidered bodice m@ deep pointed chemi- sette of tucked wy chiffon. Gowns for» Garden Party. It 1s too early to”talk serlously about garden parties, apd yet there has been one, almost an imprompta affair, at which the dress, more pleasantly informal than on set occasions, was worth noticing. There were large ‘Italian rice*s hats trimmed with flower garlands ‘and’ ‘velled in gauze, as well as smaller shapes in straw woven to imitate gathered ribbon, and little turban toques in chiffon..trimmed with long ostrich plumes. One hat had a giant rose for its crown; most flowers this season are small, but when a millinery florist ‘goes into the forcing business he recklessly over- the work, as witness _ jie’ failed to head but sprawl with coarse root leaves. Birds still sit in the nests of chif- fon we use for head coverings, and Punch has got around to satirize the fashion with 18h —— Atom three little owls oe a window. square, undulating collars were the promi- nent features of many dresses, and there were short, fitted coats, stopping at the waist, square-cornered, double-breasted ang turned back in-triangular revers. An ex- cellent gray cloth dress showed delicate touches of yellow in the scroll embroidery that circled the gracefully hung skirt and came down to the points of the long fitted bodice. For the rest there was a profusion of saffron-tinted lace at the throat and other lace veiling the gray satin revers. A gray straw, flat-brimmed hat was worn, wreathed with cowsiips. Rather a striking dress was a princess of white cloth. The double-breasted front, fastened with large pearl buttons, was cut away from about the line of the bust to show blouse and underskirt of black lace, draped on jong graceful lines. There was a narrow tomato-red velvet waist belt, and a tomato-red toque was worn, veiled in black net and tinsel. Dresses for the country include uncount- ed plaid taffetas and ginghams. One in bright checks of many colors is cut with three skirts opening, one above another on the side of the front. Each skirt i banded with white, and is held together just below the skirt on top of it by a large button. The bodice is a blouse opening on the side, belted with white and adorned with large square white revers. Cyele Costumes and Shirt Waists. Tailor dresses for walking, bicycling or golf—“plain tails for the hills,” as some people call them—are coming out in their usual abundance. One of the newest bicy- cle costumes is a navy blue homespun suit with a reefer coat, a white pique shirt waist, a navy blue straw hat and a tur- quoise blue hat band and necktie. Another suit is dark green striped with lincs of blue. ‘This has a sack coat and is to be worn with a plaid tie and a sailor hat with a black ribbon. There is no use telling anybody that shirt waists are no more. The dressmakers have done their best to down them, and dress- makers ure very nearly all powerful; but climate is more peremptory even than dressmakers, and climate demands the shirt waist, beginning with May. Bright plaid taffeta blouses are to the front. They are usually piped with one of the colors in the plaid, are tight-fitting, smart and be- coming. Another style is exemplified in emerald green soft satin with a hemstitch- ed collar and a belt and vest of tucked white satin. This worn with a green straw toque, cool with shaded green leaves and white violets, makes a decidedly pretty spectacle. Crepe-de-chine shirts or blouses are more dressy. One in pale blue, crowned with a Tuscan hat trimmed with blue ro- settes, was in evidence at one of the country clubs a few days ago. Fine, white pleated linen shirts are plen- ty. I saw one yesterday worn with a tailor dress and almost covered by a black silk muslin tie that fell down the front like a jabot. Some of the daintiest of the French novelties are made of white or colored batiste and trimmed with white embroid- ery, edged with lace and outlined with braiding. Washable silks in pink and white or blue and white stripes are being made up for morning wear with pique skirts or for bicycling. ELLEN OSBORN. see TS Neckwear Up to Date. From the Philadelphia Times. 2 Neckwear for women is what bothers them now. The best and the latest is summed up as follows: In addition to the Zingham ties fair throats will be ornamented this season with handsome satin puff scarfs, the ends left to hang spreading und free or folded neatly and flatly into the Lady Babbie pattern. This last lets fall its satin ends from neck to waist line, is made up on a frame and sold complete and ready for ad- justment, with a pretty pearl pin settled in its folds. Summing up the full com- plement of summer neckwear mention must be made of the brocaded silk Teck and Ascot ties and of the big, showy Princess of Wales. This last is built of gay benga- line or soft faille .puffed up on a frame. with or without a high throat stock. It is sold in white and the palest tints, else in vividly Roman striped taffeta. Neckties, in common with gowns, hats, sashes, gloves, sunshades and under petticoats, are reflecting the all-pervading tint of the sea- son, which is blue. The spring skies are repeated everywhere on the streets and in thé shop windows, and not to wear blue of some tone is to be one season behind the times. Azure and flag blue are the two favorite knots of this color, ————_-e-______ “A great struggle arises in a womar’s mind when she ts asked what her new gown costs,” said the Cornfed Philosopher. “She is always in doubt whether to cut the price in half and make you envy her the bargain, or double it and make you envy her affluence.”—Indianapolis Journ: “Home, Sweet Home!” From Puack, Ot tet tt tnt et fot te Street once too often. COCO DOGMNGKKOOO > “I was persuaded once to try another baking powder than Cleveland’s, but that was just land’s for 20 years, always with the pSSOSSNSSS 099900000000 CS: OOCOODO@DOOD. Having used Cleve- ox greatest success, I cannot be in- duced (again) to use anything else.” Mrs. J. M. Don’t let peddlers or grocers substitute any brand for the old, reliable standard @leveland’s Baking Powder. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN The J.atest Thing in Gowns for Out-Door Wear, ? Luaury as Well ax Comfort in Easy Clothes—Skirts for Wi celing Are Somewhat Longer, cial Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, May 5, 1898. These happy days in which, it is decreed that outdoor sports shall absorb three- fourths of our time when summer is here, and at least a quarter of it even in winter. should be made the most of. Fashion i fickle and the time may yet come when we shail look back with regret to the days When it was quite possible and proper to wear all day, from early morn till dewy eve, a short skirt and shirt waist, only dcuning conventional garb in time to dine. Golf 1s the sport most nearly suited to every one, and its costume is the most picturesque with red coat, skirt not too short for grace, and an artistic cape. A golf “suit,” it will be seen, is something ot a mixture, though the nd cape are often of the same mater The golf skirt is generally made of dou- ble-faced fiannel, plain or mixed pattera on side and « check or a large plaid effect on what generally calied the wrong sice. But man: ¢ skirts are m with strapped seams cum! y turned Ey ak n reversih ikey are aiways sti side out. aud round for at ieast 1our or tive inc up, as ii is claimed that the a makes them heavier about the bottom an: keeps tnem from biewing about in the “ind. ‘the golf coat is rea, of course, and shouid be quite severe in its lines, ana either single or double-breasted. Smart Golf Capes. The golf cape shculd be on the piainest lines and fringe or button decorations should be tabooed. Although one sees many of the capes lined with silk, it is smarter to have them made of a double- faced cloth ane not Mned at all. As the weather becomes warmer and cotton shirt waists are worn for all out-door games and pursuits, the severity of the lines of golf costumes will be brightened by softer colors. At present many women who iive in the couniry the year round have a red flannel shirt waist which they wear on all out-of-door occasions all winter and during the spring. They look as well on a wheel as on the links and are permissible any- where outside of the streets of a city. The alpine or English walking hat shape and the ever-useful sailor are all worn on the links. The golf bonnets, which are really only an adaptation of the sun bennet, are said to save the complexion more than any other head covering. There is also a wide felt hat or sombrero, which first came into notice a year ago, Which is @ great protection against the sun. But this hat sUll hangs fire in spite of its ex- clusive price, as it seems somewhat ex- treme. How to take care of the complexion and still keep up with the times deserves a chapter to itself. Not every woman ts will- ing to sacrifice whatever she may have in the way of lilies in her face, even though thereby she may gain somewhat more of roses. A bottle of almond oil on her dress- ing table may help her somewhat if a little is applied before she goes out into the wind and sun, and there are difficult and unbe- coming ways of attaching thick veils so that they do not interfere with the eyes. The sight, above all, must not be hand!- capped in golf. For Expert Players, ‘The women who play golf constantly and are proficient enough to compete in tourna- ments generally give small heed to such matters as fair skin. In the newspaper reports last summer one champion was much admired for her total disregard of the “little things” of dress, which mean so much to most of the sex. She wore a shorter skirt than usual in golf, and her shirt waist sleeves were rolled up above her elbows; and thus she played on quite ob- livious to the admiring throng who followed her every stroke. Golf shoes should have low heels, and be laced. They are frequently studded with nails or corrugated to keep them from slipping on the turf. They ure not inex- pensive. Bicycle shoes also have corrugat- ed soles; the heels are rather higher than those used in other out-door pastimes, and they reach almost to the knee, or are the height of an ordinary walking shoe or— preferably—are made like ordinary ties, ex- cept for the difference in the heel and for the corrugated sole. The very high bicycle boots are not considered as smart as tie: broad revers, and generally look better with a blazer or fly front than when made to fit itghtly. To Be Quite Proper. There is a tendency this year toward trimming wheeling costames. While this j tez.dency is yet in its infancy, and confines itself to revers and pockets of a contrast- ing cloth, it is well enough. her alpt or sailor hats are wern with bicycle gowns. Fane; ps, etc., have quite gor it. In @ two shapes mentioned, however, the arieties and colors are endless, and this spring one may buy hats speciall structed for the bicyclist, which ar light and cool, and in the very best sl and colors, very simply and suitably trim- med. It should not be inferred from this that they are inexpensive. Specialties come high. Bloomers or knickerbockers are preferred to tights. Knickerbockers are, as a rule, the best of the three. India silk, pongec, light-weight flannel and the material of the skirt, provided it is not too heavy, are all used in their They are rather expensive when bought ready made, if ot good material. but one can purchase an tent pattern and have them made at hom: There are also some very good patterns » skirts, and the: hew thai a gored or cular skirt is preferred te a divided . finish of tailor on a gown which to be worn co constantly ts most It is berter to save on er gowns, where Ways in 4 glare « more expensive mate into one’s outing gowns. > H Bermuda W From the Boston Heswld.* | There aps, t spinsters in Bern he »pulation than in i > on this 5 ne Atlantic, and ‘t is a curious | fac this is the low of the land | ‘The semt-tropical climate of the § and their isolation: have made of th habitant ck aq ly dizn, ally, many of whom live very narrow lives, never leaving these islands, are remarkabic for their cld- fashioned hospitality and a natural ease of manner which scems to arise from an en- tire faith in those with whom they come in contact. Perhaps the fact that it would be very difficult for a criminal to escape from the islands may account for it, but, at any rate, crime is very rare there. Bermuda women are excellent housewives and bring up large families of children, some of the most favored young folk being sent to the United States for educational advantages. In matters of etiquette they are far more strict than Americans. As a rule, they are well-to-do, and live comfort- ably, while some of them possess ample means and enjoy much luxury. In Bermu- da, as in England, property, especially real estate, remains in the same family for long periods, and some of the descendants of the first settlers still possess lands which have never passed out of their families. It is just this conservatism about property which causes the superabundance of ~>in- sters, No alien can acquire a title to land in Bermuda, either by purci ance. This is chiefly a precautionary m ure against the Portuguese, who flock to Ithe country and go in largely for onion growing. But the law provides that if a woman marries a foreigner she shall lose her landed property, but shall also become incapable of inheriting any. This law ts naturally not popular with the ladies, who see their brothers mate with . Americans and other aliens, and would fain have the same liberty. “Occasionally Bermudan giris renounce their birthrights for loves’ sake; but, as a rule, the charms of pen- niless maidens are not suflicient for young men to desire them for wives, and thus many girls are doomed to single blessed- ness in Bermuda simply by the law of the land. -o+_—__—_ Keeping Meat. From the Philadelphia Press. A scientist gives a bit of information for housekeeping that may be found useful. He says meats ought never to be wrapped in paper, even while coming from ths butcher's, much less should they be left in paper over night or when put away in the ice box. A large-sized sheet of paper will absorb half of the juice of a good steak if it has the opportunity, and thus destroy the most delicate and relishable portion of it. One housekeeper has a coy- ered china dish that she sends to the mar- ket, and in this meats are placed. When she requires a large amount she often sends the porcelain-lined preserving ket- Ue with a rack in the bottom and a piece of ice underneath. Of course, this is not necessary in very cold weather, but dur- ing fall and spring people do not realize that meats deteriorate very rapidly upon exposure to the air. The temperature is so much cooler for them that they forget that chemical changes take place quickly even in moderately cool weather. A mar- ket basket fitted with an agate tray or basin is excellent for meats. An ordinary and leggings and gaiters have almost e: tirely gone out. They were never a great success. Heavy golf stockings are worn with low shoes until warm weather comes, then siik or cotton ones take their place. ‘It is pre- dicted that gay plaid hose will again be worn tuis summer, but one can scarcely be- Meve that anything quite so glaring will again be attempted. - Longer Cycling Skirts. The bicycle coat and skirt should al- ways be of the same material. For spring and early summer serge, cheviot and covert cloth are all popular, or.the double-faced cloth used for golf skirts. Indeed, women- not inclined to extravagance usually make one skirt do for both occasions. This is quite practicable now that bicycle skirts are worn longer. There is no. way of dis- guising the sad fact. They are worn much lcnger. Some of the new bicycle skirts Teach to the ankle. They look very well, indeed, both on and off the wheel, but they are usually worn’by women who take short to some objective point, like the house of a frienc. They are not in high favor with the women who like thirty-mile spins or longer. “(What is the usc,” said one girl mournfully as she surveyed her new and smart bicycle gown just home cover may be used, and in this way the steaks and joints will come to the table in a much better state than as though they had been allowed to give up their substance to a bit of manilla. The cus. tom of sending home butter in wvodet trays is severely criticised. The wood !s almost certain to impart a disagreeable flavor to the butter. It may not develop immediately, but the butter will not keep as long. and is quite sure to become ob- jectionable before it is used. —__-—+e+ _-___. How to Clean Carpets. From the New York ‘Tribune. With the rear approach of the house- cleaning season, the easiest and best way to clean carpets is a question worthy of consiéeration. The methods employed in the British fac- tories for cleaning velvet, moquette, Au- bisson and other heavy carpets is to bo commended for its simplicity as well as the good results obtained. Two large pails of hot water are provided, one clear and tepid, the other hot and soapy, made so by shav- ing white soap Into water. Plenty of good, sirong while cotton rags are a requisite, and a scrubbing brush may be added if care is taken not to apply it too vigorously. A square of the carpet is then taken at a time and the surface washed quickiy