Evening Star Newspaper, April 30, 1898, Page 19

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, APRIL 30, 1898-24 PAGES, Copyright, 1008, by 8. M.Baktwty IN BLACK AND WHITE ——— Design for a Handsome Gown for Evening Wear. FASHION HINTS FOR LATE SPRING a Tulle Will Play a Leading Role Next Summer. ELABORATE a ORNAMENTS —$_—»— pon ace of The Evening Star. HE HAGUE, April 20, 1898. the costume de promenade .s typical spring gown and has for a while d the attention of the fashic Although the absort theless been creative of new ideas appropri- social functions, for as long as an will be beautiful she will strive to at home, as well as outdoors, and s must be made for dinners, receptions und weddings till the summer heat lulls even these to languor and madame trar ports her suecesses to a new field—the fash- jonable summer re Among the r ress ions of the principal akers there is a tendency to launch ntricity of form than is pular for some time to come, neverthele: shows the trend of the princesse robe first ttention, > back pil Our arrangement consists s of a blouse being pro- 1 over the belt in a sort of modified teau plait and continued down in long falling nearly to the bottom of the t Our model of an elegant dinner dress will be worn at a fashionable June wedding by '$ still youthful moth and iilus- the undying favoritism the combination of black and white ha ed for a number of seasons and bids fair ey for a number more, for the con- f these colors is one at once striking, t and dignitie n Black and White. » skirt of this toilet consists of ivory satin duchesse, lined with thin white eta and cut with a moderate train. The hem is finished on the inside with ruffles of piped white taffeta, which give a body to th overdress and spangle bere f black tulle covered with and finished with an of black and jetted embroide al motif falls gracefully « erskirt, having only a narrow pointed r in front. artistic y ina tabl The same jetted net covers the front of the tight-fit & bodic enjoy- | With various pr unstiffened modern skirt. A beautiful } pre jet | a fine pi r the plain } thu lined with white taffeta. The black satin princesse overdress forms a graceful bolero with the tab motif repeated over the lace front and large jabot of black embroidered tulle. The tabs are edged like those on the train and are additionally adorned by ap- plique passementerie. The jabot is sur- mounted by a cravat bow of cyclamen- colored (bright bluish pink) velvet. ‘The tight sleeve of black satin duchesse is finished at the wrist with the same bright velvet arranged into a pleated cuff and bow, and a fall of black lace. _ ‘The Marie Stuart ruche of black jet em- broidered lace around the neck is stiffened and wired and lined with white taffeta. The folded belt of black satin is finished with silver buttons set with simili. Tulle und Bibbon. Tulle will play a leading role in evening as well as elegant summer toilets. As be- fore said, black or white is preferred by fashionables, although colors are in some demand with the public. Black veiling tulles with spots woven in the net its and chenille spotted tulle are equally vored. The most approved styies of mesh- es for tulle veils are extremely fine, the oi ing to render them as invisible as possible, so that the spots or embroidery may stand out in greater relie aited satin ribbon also form » mode of trimming much employed on tile: Thus, a pale blue dre ne de soie is trimmed with the ings of a brighter blue to the mousseline skirt being made as a full t over pale blue taffeta. s not been worn so much for eve: sions in years, and it is employed in the most various and ishing shadex, pale flax blue and ciel de Nice being among the most favored. a desira- The prestn rage for sashes has given larth to gauzes striped lengthwise with broad bi of satin, which make charmin; , or we should say appe to evening gowns. Handsome Ornaments. f in connection with costumes season is the use of girdles, bucki belts and othe: ornamentatioris of almost innumerable designs and materials. Som| are very elaborate and expensive and decid- edly beyond the capabilities of the ordinary pu Fortunately, there are imitations, however, which will answer the purpos Just as well, and which are equally beauti ful in composition and artistic ship and altainable’to almost eve The expens productions dages, ature workmar- turquoises and grace the lithe patra bh Nor are our mo Cleopatras 1 travagant or les: 1. A bit of news comes to us from Pa that the most fin de siecle eccentrique 1 amusing herself with a living adornment in the shape of a small turtle or little liz- ard, which is fitted out by the jeweler with a more gorgeous but less comfortable coat an nature had inte: The small turtie’s s studded with stones and inlaid with gold, whil able armor of filagree gold with emeralds and t ui: destined to pas: erable existence at madame’s pleasure. triumph of fin de siecle art, fin de siecle luxury and fin de siecle womaniiness. i treatment. is tight fitting HY ith ng int -- © app sementerie and »wing long points of the lace-covered un- rdress between. These tabs are also CL. J. C. Hans, The Hague, Holland., HOUSEHOLD HINTS. two persons. Remove with a knife the fine = skin which covers them and-then slice PI i shad is the tidbit of the season, | them. Put half a tablespoonful of butter and until one has eaten it prepared in this | in a chafing dish or Wey he knows nothing of the innate pos: bilities of this most delicious fish. The picnk should be made of some hard wood— ash, hickory, or very dry cherry, an should be cut in dimensions to fit the oven. It should be hollowed out a bit in the mid- order to prevent the fat of the fish nk, by the way, should never but should be rubbed with a ter uring, and then sandpa- ever mind if it gets scorched— only adds to the flavor it will impart t> the fish. Heat this board very hot be the fish upon it. Cut the fish e back, and lay It open upon the sh side up. Spread with sweet er, and dust with salt and pepper. Set plank in front of the fire to cook, if 5 place under the gas broiler or oven, if preparing im the kitch about half an hour, tier us it becomes dry. The fish, once laid on the hot plank, must be served on it when dene. A japanned try Htce larger than the board, or a platter, may receive the plank and its 2p jen. Serve as soon as done, nish of water-cresses and sliced still continue to tempt the palate, notwithstanding the recent inst the danger of ptoma which, by the way, has been 4d. The roe may be y of ways, but in every Farboiled first in water to Juice has been z uttering which enda 1- s well as the temper of the cook. The roes may be fried w and & rich brown sauce poured over them, or cover seasoned and broiled over in a double broiler, cut into two-inek pieces, brushed with beaten egg, rolled in cracker crumbs fried a deli- cate brown, and served with sauce tartare or Maycnnaise dressing, or well seasoned, rolled in flour and baked in a hot even, reated meanwhile to frequent bastings of Ited butter. - n “Bouchees a la Reine’ was one of the delightful dishes recently prepared for an audience of amateur chefs and cordon bleus by Mme. Gaston Blay, a French home cook, who has been teaching classes of men and women these past months the mys- terles of the French cuisine. “Allow one veal kidney,” counseled Mme. Blay, “for | fects of the aucepan, and as soon #s melted add the slices of kidney. two minutes on each side, adding a pinch of salt and a quarter of a pinch of pepper. Remove the kidney from the saucepan and Cook | add to the sauce half a teaspoonful of flour; mix well. Add besides, little by _lit- le, half a cupful of hot water in which there is a quarter of a teaspoonful of beef dissolved with a spoonful of Ma- also add fresh mushrooms cut the hickness as the sliced kidney. Let it boil for three minutes, add the Kidneys for two minutes before serving.” extract In buying olive oil it must be remember- ed that it is not improved by age, as i wine. Pure olive oil, properly kept, wil retain its sweetness and freshness for about .wo years from the time it is made; but inferior qualities soon grow rancid. Importers say that fine oil retains its good qualities longer when exported in bottles than in tin cans or casks. Occasionally, new olive oll, when bottled early in the season, will deposit a little sediment con- sisting of minute particles of the fruit. This argues nothing against either the purity or excellence of the oil in question. The cloudiness of fine oil in winter under the influence of cold is of no moment what- ever, as expansion to the heat causes the oil to resume its brightness. Medical authorities are all agreed as to the beneficial and remedial effects of olive oil, declaring it specially useful in any de- eretory ducts, or any low ate of the system when in nged of a tis- sue-building food. It has long been obsery ed that those who use oiive oil as a com- mon article of food are generally healthier and in better condition than those who do not. It is said to be destructive to certain forms of micro-organig life, and for the eradication of such from the system, it is frequently advised by physicians for in- ternal use. The service of an elaborate luncheon fre- quently starts with grape-fruit cut in the shape of baskets with handles. The pulp is loosened, the seeds and bitter lining re- moved. and powdered sugar is sprinkled over the fruit, with a little Maraschino if desired. Often candied cherries are placed in grape-fruit baskets. This course is fol- lowed by the bouillon. “Oyster cocktails served in grape-fruit are also popular and delicious. The pulp is loosened, skin and seeds removed, and four or five tiny blue points are put in the center of each grape- fruit half. The seasoning consists of to- mato catsup, lemon juice, vinegar, salt and a few drops of tobasco or Worcestershire sauce. The whole must be served ice cold. SUGGESTIONS FOR AMATEUR GARDENERS, eee Written for The Evening Star. Again the season is here when the old Adam and Eve in cur natures awaken ani urge us "back to paradise, the paradise of growing, flowering things; and those of us who are lucky enotgh to have at our dis- Forition even a tiny plot of earth begia to plan how to make it blossom as the rose. This is not as ecsy as it sounds. The amount of time and money ignorantly ex- pended in abortive efforts at floriculture would be lamentable if it were not by this yvoad that success is reached at last. The first thing te do is to study your ground carefully, be it small or large; de- cide where and what to plant, and begin by preparing the soil. A small yard on the north side of a house, particularly if it be a back yard, surrounded by the usual high board fence, is an unpromising field to work in, but even here there is almcst sure te be some spot where the sun shines for a part cf the day, and that is the spot to cultivate. Remember, nothing will thrive in any piace where the scil is dank and sodden all the time. Having located your beds and borders where sun and air will reach them, have the soil spaded up about a foot deep, some n.old from the woods, or top soii from a field, and some oid ‘weil-rotted compost mixed in, and leave it so a day or two to weeten” in the sun. This matter of soil contains the whole secret of successful Deginning. If you have on!y a smail space to cuitivate, better buy prepared soil of a flor- ist, but whatever else you do, do not pur- ‘e the stuif carted about our streets by rupulous men, and offered at high rates “rich carth.” It is Lothing but street weepings, consisting largely of crumbled zephalt, and sure to ruin anything planted in it, ‘Tne soil for planting seeds must be very finely pulverized and freed from stems, etc. Have it sifted through a coal sieve for about three inches in depth, a laborious but needful process, valess the ground has been several years in cultivation. Now as to what to plant. Much depends whether you wish to produce merely n ornamental effect, or whether you desire a profusion of flowers fer cutting. In bed- ding-out piants there are the old stanchys, but eacn year brings them to greater per- fection and beauty, and new plants are al- ways being offered. Select your plants yourself, the market being the best place. Sending away usual- ly results in disappcintment, one way or another, unless you are buying on a scale large enough to command the respect of o the nurseryman. Small orders aze often ccntemptuously treated. Catalogues are both fascinating and demoralizing. At least I find them so. One bit of advice—do not be tempted by the “novelties” adver- tised at enormous prices. Florists work wonders with their knowledge and control of means—but these results are generally beyond the amatew achievement. Do not buy helte elter, whatever pleases your fancy. Go slow. Decide on some scheme of coior or desirable nd stick to it. For beds on a lawn, e the most attrac- border miscellaneous plants in left between them. in the center of is plants agairst walls and fenc Place tall-growing beds, in corners, never in front of Do not crowd any p! low plan bed of ail pink or all red geranium a border of heliotropes, is very pretty. Keep ali fided blossoms cut off, and trim long, prawling shoots and branches, Among quick-growing annuals, next to the sweet pea, which it is now too late to plant, comes the nasturtium. It is a gen- erou: ocratic flower, very easily satisfied, though blooming best when planted in common garden soil, not too rich, Do not for that there are both climbing and low-growing sorts, and choose accordingly. A mixture of colors gives most general satisfaction, but if preferred the colors may be bought separately. Soak the seed a few hours in warm water j before planting, and plant an inch dee; nd two or three inches apart. When th plants have acquired four to six leaves transplant where wanted. A few rules for transplanting seedlings may as well be in- serted here. Choose a cloudy or rainy da for the work or after the sun is low. D turb the roots as little as poss thoroughiy from the spout of a pit tea kettle and press the earth very firmly ubout the plant. Protect for a few ¢ from the hot sun with newspapers, ,bo flower pots, ete. greatest of all annuals, in my op'a- the aster. Only t who have seon upe=b flowers as row grown can imig- ine what it is like. It has many of the best qualities of the chrysanthemum, with arms of its own, one of them being its iness of culture. It has shades and colors the ‘mem has not, and vies with it in size and variety of form. It flowers in July and August, when garden flowers are rarest, und altogether no garden can be complete without it. To insure early blooming, the seeds should he start der glass early in the spring, but may be now planted in the open ground to bloom in July and later. me of the best sorts are the comet, th Vietoria, the br the ¢ the: mums—flowered- the peony—flowered. These may be had in separate shades of red, blue, purple, rose and white. For a circular bed, select the tall sorts fo: center, and the dwarf fer the border. P arefully in hil leaves have formed, observing the dire ticns given. You will be amply rewa: for your troubl Next in order comes the cosmos, now familiar to most people, though few know how easily it is raised from seed. If you have plenty of room, plant both the early and the late sorts, a packet of cach. The “giant” cosmos is grand against a fence, growing eight or ten feet high and a inass ot bloom until frost. If you have recom to spare, have a bed of annual poppie: ant by all m nothing a be more exquisite than these frilled, silken beauties dancing and loiling in the sun. the corn- the won- Then comes the lowly favorite, fiower, mignonette, alyssum, a y to grow, though that does not mean t they will thrive if totally neglected. e you ever tried a clump of field daisies tall golden rod among your garden If not, do so. You will be charmed. if you have a hardy perennials and biennials should not permanent garden, the be forgotten. By sowing seeds each year strong young plants are obtained for the following year’s bloom. Among the most showy and beautiful of them is the holiy- hock, to be had in many lovely shades and colors; the hardy poppies, phloxes, snap dragon, foxglove, columbine and other old- time favorites now coming iato favor again. And now a word for that familiar and often neglected flower, the morning glory, which, owing to Japanese influence, is be- ginning to attain the distinction of a “fad.” That flower-worshiping people has attain- ed marvelous skill in the culture of this flower. A visit to the morning glory gar- dens is one of the chief pleasures of the traveler in Japan. The imported seed are very expensive, and only a small propor- tion of them germinate in this country, but the experiment is worth trying. For those who can appreciate its etherial love- Tiness our native flower possesses all-sutti- cient attractions. Here is a very novel and effective way of using this flowering vine. Have a tall, strong pole set firmly in the ground in some place where the morning sun will strike it, and at equal distances from this as a center, a row of stout Posts, five or six feet high, forming a square or circular inclosure. From these posts let strips slope upward to the central pole. At- tach poultry wire to the posts, leaving a space on the side where the entrance is de- sired. Spade up a border about one foot wide, surrounding this inclosure, and piant it thickly with all colors of morning glories. As they reach the wire netting, twine them in and out until well started. When the top of the netting is reached, give them cord or wire on which to climb to the top of the pole. That is all. In a few weeks you will have a bower fit for Titania and all her train. A half hour spent there in the early morning, in the miést of its dewy, bee-haunted blossoms will do a man more goed than the most eloquent dissertation on social ethics, and keep a woman bright and amiable all day. ‘To make the thing absolutely -perfect, set a ‘moon-flower vine at each side. Then you have a tent garlanded with rose and azure blossoms in the morning, a cool, green bower during the day, and at night a tem- ple, draped in dense, dusky foliage, starred with odorous, snowy disks, and all this beauty brought into one's prosaic existence so easily, with a slight expenditure of time @nd money. JULIA SCHAYER, MAD RIOT OF COLOR! Nothing is Too Gay for Summer Girls This Year. ~ HATS THAT ARE LIKE FLOWER BEDS Only Fair Athletes May Be Stiff and ‘Starchy. NEGLIGE SHIRT WAISTS oe 1898, by the Internationai Lite News Mervice.) Special Ccrrespondencé of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, April 29, 1898. dP YOUR BRUSH ID anywhere and sling the color,” the head painter said to the under artists when they applied for di- rections about finish- ing up this year’s lot of summer girls, “Blue Is good, yel- low is good, red Is al- (Copyright ‘ways good; anything goes; splash it on thick; now mind.” The artists splish- ed with a brush in each hand. They splashed with their éyes shut, and when they had emptied the" paint pots, the head painter n ventured within range. rs "he said. “Quite like the- atrical posters, or Sunday ‘color supple- nients.’ Sorry the burnt orange didn’t hold out a little better. These girls are bright and beamy; they'll divert the countr: mind in case of war.” Nobody claims that this year’s outdoor fashions are anything but crude and st art- ling; yet they are effective enough on a considerable proportion of women. A tulip bed on a green lawn against tae blue sky is a cheerful spectacle, so why should any- body cavil at tulip flowers on a green hat worn with a blue gown? “But I'm not complaining of the color: protested a little lady the other day. “I have always liked bright colors and have never been ashamed to say so. What trou- bles me is this: I tried to buy a couple of hats yesterday and it took a relief expedi- ticn to dig me qut from under the ava- lanches the millfner plumped on me. Every- thing has tons of trimming.” Tall and Small. There is a certain consistency about the happy-go-lucky, catch-as-catch-can air that pervades the whole wardrobe of the 1898 -mmer girl. Happy is the tall woman who is enlivened and made to sparkie by many adernments. Grievous are the woes of the small person of quiet tastes and tints who is curiously vulgarized by being clothed gaudily. In Paris not quite a year ago one of the famous man milliners was showing mc a very beautiful dress, simple but exquisite. When I had sufficiently admired it, he pro- duced a second edition of the same thing cevered with spangles and glass “jewels.” “This,” he said, “is fer your American marl Such sewgaws wouldn't go here.” Those particular gewgaws are now out of date in this country, nevertheless— Nevertheless the summer costume at its loveliest is capable of being winsome as well as gay. At a spring luncheon yester- day there were to be noted this: Flower-Like Suggestions, Item, a table whose middle ornament was a tall green “trumpet” vase filled with peach blossoms and white thorn. Feathery stalks of asparagus fern were twisted in and out among the blossoms, and festoons of the same fern were used for the stem of the vase, giving the effect at a little dis- tance of a soft green haze. Small straight vases, also of green glass, similarly filled, were set about the table at intervals. Item, the pink, green and white costume of the hostess, offering the same flower- like suggestions. A peculiarly silky, peach- colored cashmere was the material of the dress, which was made over white glace silk and trimmed with, bands of green satin ribbon, overlaid with. Limerick lace. This trimming did nov yun ¢bntinuously round the skirt; instead, the front breadth had a band applied ‘about six inches from the edge and finished with pointed ends. Six inckes higher a second band passed round the back, stopping just above the “Short perpendicular bands joined the horfzontal ones and were fastened by pink and white cameo buttons. ‘The bodice had a deép vest of green satin, lace covered and’ framed in lace and green ribbons. A certain originality of effect em- Phasized the gown's ‘other attractions. Jtem, a costume of gray chifion over a foundation of gteen glace. The deep, bot- tom flource was'outlined by three rows of puffing, which wae cArried in a point over the hips, giving ‘a certain illusion of height to th? figure. The frifled and frothy bodice had un odd zorave ¢ffect of puffing and a trimming of lacé applique over the should- ers. A long lacé sash was tied round the waist and fell to the floor behind. Heavily Laden Ha To this gown belonged a hat that was pretty to look at, if it did not altogether es- cap2 the universal fault of overloading. The fine Leghorn straw was bent over the face, bet rounded up. in white tulle, showing cicudily through black, spotted lace. In front was ‘a large steel crnament from which started out on each side a long, drocping gray and white ostrica feathar. The brim, which was lined with black, turned up behind with a flowerbed of roses. ‘The swathing effect that most hats are showing is managed by some milliners, it may be remarkéd, with an exagg>rated puffiness that reminds one of nothing so much as a big Mohammedan’s yards upon yards of white cotton turban. A simpler gown that I have seen within st” of sky dots. The a day or two was of the | blue challies, with white bedice was cut with er carrisd round the waist hanging sash ends. straig in front, a circle flounce male cf half-inch tucks beginning at the sides and passing round behind. Hat and Parasol. To accompany chis smart gown, which was of the summer girl, girly, was a blue and white checked straw hat, with Its trimmings were blue myrtle fiver gauze in unlimited quantities blue and white ostrich feathers, blue and rald green ribbons. There was also a parasol, whica recalled e Shape of the fashionable skirt, with its tight-fitting upper part and full ’founces. very shallow frame was cov with white satin and from this -1s: led three flounces, on» upon the other; the lowest be- ing of bive chiffon, the next of whi chit fon and the top one of white n-t, with a ruche of blue ribbon at its edge. The in- terior economy of this parasol was white chiffon with a stick of ivory enameled wood studded with cabochon turquoises. Stiff and Starchy. The athletic girl's wardrobe does not float, 2xcept when she’s boating. It is a stiff and starchy wardrobe, consisting in part of white er colored pique skirts which may be plain or elaborately trimmed with narrow cord brai¢ A white skirt of this variety adorned with blue to the knees is worn with 2 curious square-cornered jacket, res*mbling an Eton, which also is heavily ornamented with blue. Under the jacket belongs a blue and white madras shirt waist with a high linen collar and a stiff bosom, fastened with small studs of tur- quoise. Folds of madras frame the stuf front and make it a queer, sexloss articie, neither masculine ror feminine ring A tie in Roman colors is worn and a leather! or cur steel belt studded with turquoises With such an outfit belongs a sailer hat with a blue and white band, or Ise a blue and white straw alpine with blue and white gauze ribbon twisted round the crown, Shirt Wai: The soft neglige silk shirt waists in Ro- n plaids are sure to be popular as soon s it is hot weather. At present the only shirt waists se are in heavy cotton ma- terials in pronounced plaid or striped ef- ™ fects. These are tailor-fitted, smart and ex- pensive. They call for white skirts or else skirts of the same mate The tailor- cial parasols in bayadere stripes like her waists or in equally gor- geous checks; sticks and handles being enameled to match one of the darker coi- mad> girl has s ors, She is provided with white vei veils finely spott>d with chenille. But of ail thin; gorgeous about her, the most gor- s of geous are her ties. And the brightnes these is not hidden under a bushel, as a man obscures his with vest fronts, but the light of them shinzs over her whole person. ELLEN OSBORN. —+ — LOYALTY OF CUBAN WOMEN. They Are the Bravest Foes With Whom Spain Has Had to Deal. From the Woman's Heme Companion. Cuban men in arms frequently present themselves for pardon. No Cuban woman | has ever been known to barter fealty for mercy. There are traitors in Cuba, but they are never women. Havana is full of devoted women reared in indolence and luxury who are tiveless in their successful efforts to get word from one scatt2red rebel band to another, and to send them food, medicines and clothing. These women are far better conspirators than their fathers and brothers, for Cuban men must talk, and therefore rarely hatch a plot befor? it is revealed. The women in that country, at least, seem to know the value of silerce. They say little of war, even among themselves, but to Americans they are singularly confiding. This in- stantancous and perfect trust is at times startling, and makes one breathe a fervent prayer that it will never be betrayed. It leads to many strange experiences that caymot be treated as news and sent to a @aily journal, for the required publication of names would tend to swell the already cyercrowded and vile quarters for women in the island jails and prisons. Beautiful and delicate senoritas will impulsively dress up in boys’ clothes to illustrate to Amer- icans how they steal out at night to the near-by haunts of lover or brother in the “Long Grass,” as the insurgents’ camps are called; how they secrete food in false pockets: how letters whose envclopes have been dipped in ink, are hidden in their black hair; how medicines are carried in canes, and cloth for clothes or wounds con- cealed in the lining of their coats. One girl, disguised as a vender, has frequently car- | ried to the woods dynamite in egg shells deftly put together. She has had many thrilling exper'ences, but her narrowest es- cape was when a Spanish soldier by the roadside insisted on taking from the basket an egg, to let its contents drop in a hot and ready pan. He was with difficulty per- suaded to forego the meal. The dynamite was made by another woman, who care- fully obtained the ingredients at various times and at widely scattered drug stores. The Care of Silver. From Harper's Bazar. One of the many things that are imposs!- ble for the untrained mind to grasp seems to be the fact that if an article is never allowed to become dirty it will never need cleaning. In all branches of housework j this rule holds good, especially in the care of silver. The average maid finds it neces- | sary to devote a large part of one day out jof every seven to scrubbing and cleaning forks, knives and spoons that should never have been allowed to become dirty enough to demand such exertion. When these ar- {ticles are once clean they should be kept lin. that condition. If, after using, each. Piece of silver is washed in very hot water and wiped immediately dry on an immacu- Extra silver that is not needed for every- day use will keep clean: for months lying untouchéd in a tightly closed chest or trunk if the mistress of the house will self take the precaution to see that it put away clean. Each thoroughly washed and Cleveland’s Baking Powder does the work just right every time. That's why all the leading Teachers of Cookery use and recommend it. nowadays. Tailor-made gowns, quite se- vere in themselves, open at the throat to show a high white satin collar or stock and a scft fall of lace. The lace jabots of the are ily constructed. Any has will do. Make haped arrangement ot som: FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN | Accessories to the Costume Give the Smart | 1 or shick Effect. stiff material, and on this gether th = 5h lace, vo that it falls in one or two rows | three. as the case may be. If you h Broad Satin Girdles Fitted and Boned, | th . buy he neh th J collars, which is High-Water Merk Collars and Chic Hats and Veilx. ves, in which one’s ow be followed, she who wishe Special Correspom of The INR, NEW YORK, April smart must give the hat and veil subje ‘The extromely fashionable woman must | some careful consideration, Smart hate de ay = eee con- | Ot necessarily cost a large sum. But they make up her mind to lovk a trif m- | are Wendaructs’ Gth: a ahenr Shik or eee polcuge | Hier Bowne must ibe of Some | is rng porn be kth by thane eis by aetnh novelty material, which cannot easily be | mysterious power are always a little ab 4 copied, either bec it is expensive or | of their neighbors in matters of this so! trying to m complex: or of such a | One of the prettiest hats seen this week pattern that it would strike the ordinary | Was made by the wearer. It was a gray Saari as kigles! Skea! koe see ai- | English walking hat, trimmed rather dar- race ein eal ot abe td 2~ | ingly with purple fleur-de-lis and white though always giving one the idea at once | tulle. One did not get a very clear impr that they are extremely trifle unlike the mart, must be a | sion of how the trimming was put on, be- hats one . cause it blended so perfectly, but one was windows of the best shops. An artic sure that it was not overtrimmed in the going the round of the exchanges a manner so unfortunately popular just now A white wash v hat tipped for il was worn with it and the yard over the face. MABEL BoYD. Aerkash SL NECESSARY FAN, that style depends on carriage and figure, but this is only true to a certain extent. Carriage can be acquired by nearly any daughter of Eve who has in her vanity enough to wish to be of the electly clothed, THE while figure can, to a great extent, be con- | The im Leaf Variety is Not Only | cealed or displayed by the manner in which the Best, but is Cheapest. a gown is made and worn. From Harper's Bazar. This season every woman who does not | With the advent of summer weather tip the scal 0 pounds or thereabouts | fans again become important. In ovr can look fairly well, while those who are | equable climate we do not need to hi 18 conscious of a want of avoirdupois can} they do in India, a punkah swinging all conceal the fact most successfully. day and all night, with careful servitors And it is all, or nearly al!, on account | to keep it going, lest we @ie for lack of ai:. of the new sheath-like skirt. They are | but, nevertlh: the fan plays an import- marvels. Fitted tightly over the hips, th ant pavt in our ordinary comfort. xpand in graceful folds about the knees and ankles, and give a graceful outline. The fit about the hips, howeve No house is properiy furnished for sum- mer which has not quantity of the use- necessarily a matier of concern t ful palm-leaf variety of fans, which cost people, for these skirts can be so cut as litte and return an immensity of comfort flare very much, even while they seem to | Less beautiful and ornate than the Japan- ! ig, and the consequence is an abrupt | ese fans, the pal af always holds iis hip line, which is becoming to a thin wo- | own for its ligitn 1 its po of man and natural to one who is more cor- | creating a breeze folding fans to | pulent. carry in the pocket or the big feather tans Then, made with a long the sleeve zre being of lay silk and ivory are among the ch: m; that is, possessions which women lov No eleg shoulder se nt is put in farther out on the | toilet is complete without a fan, and many shoulder. This gives a broad-shouldered 1 have fens to mateh ‘h costume. effect, whieh adds reuch to the looks of the one may pure for few cents average woman. The material is also very |2 fan which Will give great satisfact-or. much draped across the bust, and ve: the resources of a millionaire’s p may smooth and snug at the waist line. One fashionable beauty, who rejoices in a small waist under all circumstances, was quite delighted with her spring gowns when they be taxed for the artistic and expensive fans which cost immense sums of money amd take rank in their owner’s love with jew els and came home. They all looked very small} One word of ¢ > permitted, about the waist, on account of the man- | and that is addre: e who use fans ner in which they were constructed, yet, | in public places. There is a way of fanning as she triumphantly remarked, “It causes me no agony whatsoever.’ it is well to remember the looks of the best fashion plates and models ‘h are ent over each season when going to nave gown made, or when constructing one at one’ one’ self, and e same tir with an renching ice-cold rheumatism or pn ia. If the victims who suffer from the indiscreet fanning | People who sit near them in church, at th home. Bearing in mind the general effect | theater and at the opera could ris of these models, and insisting on having | wave their hands in protest they we Modistes approach them as nearly as pos- certainly make an impression on the sible without interfering with one’s com- | thoughtless women Whe Keep on fannie fort will make a vast difference in the ap- | the summer through, with to eupend fe pearance of one’s gowns. It is easy enough | the comfort of these around them It to remember that to get the sheath-tike | wholly unneccerary. if one fans in the right effect, which is yet really the mc | 1 bs way, to thus torment a neighbor, Init the vigorous fanner, intent on securing a cur- jrent of air for herself. dom remembers that just in front of her there may be ous lool one must have on made with apron fronts, or flounc S er uated to a narrow point in the back, and that a draped front with a wide girdle for & thin woman, and a narrow girdle for a | U™E,9 lady or a gentleman who is only stout woman are used by good modistes to | Osman! » present give to each an opposite effect. that is, to | one never ting gifts give voluminous to one and slenderness for a bride. to the other. <t casion, you will never go wrong in ch The Revival of Brond Girdles, ing a beautiful fan. Historic collections of Girdles, by the way, are growing wider | fans are always full of interest, and in loan i « ection oO cha le objects beautiful andwidier, “andl from\ three to four ancnes | perio Tor charianie emsons boom is the width chosen by young women for alee: wear with their silk and satin separate Jewels of Austria’: Dupre: wane Eopatee. It is ae fo SAY | prom the Lady's Healt. waists w! will support a girdle of this | % gts yi Empress width are not bloused at all. The girdles| At Cap Martin you may find = — = are made of all sorts of materials, princi- | of Austria, who casts off all the cares 0 pally ribbon, and shaped, fitted and boned, | royalty and indulges her taste for simple yery many of then. Unless one is too stout | jiving and fresh air. She walks for miles for them they are the latest and smartest | |" /05 Z sensible, serviceable addition to silk shirt waists. They add very | ©Y¢TY Gay in the most sensible, | co e y ore who met her in much to a fashion-plate effect on an aver-| Costumes, and any ore w h age woman. Leather belts, however, are | her walks abroad, quite unattended, and not by any means relegated to the back- | $9 simply clad, would scarcely realize that ground, for there are numberiess out-door | She Was a great empress, and ha = sports and occasions on which one must | “isposai some of the most beautiful Jewels i “I vere seen. The Austrian col- contrive to look very trim and tailoremade. | Which were neem. 7 < After looking carefully after the shape | lection is the finest collection of jewe Le and fitting of a gown and the shape of | Europe—in fact, the only one pean ah belts, girdles and shoulder seams one should | CTOwn jewels of France were ard bought by the modern millio 4 The bejeweled arms are quite magnificent, and among the most noticeabie of them is the lance of St. Maurice, blazing with pre- cious stones and containing in the handle the- most authentic relic—a nail from the true cross: while the regalia of Charl magne, taken from his tomb at Aix-la- Chapelle, is another valuable item. But look ‘carefully into the size of the sleeve which seems to be favored on the best gowns. It is not so much the particular manner in which it is made. Women think so much of that, when it is the effect which counts. The slseve of the present day is rather trying. It must not be extremely small, or if it is tight fitting there must be | SUSAR ARAM Seer ee Ob eee Tat | thn eenpreae Gun Jewebs Gre Ghanbat kepae= The crown and finish of the smart gown; IY Magnificent. She possesses the largest {s the collar, and that, regretfully for thos | €merald in the world, weighing 3,000 kar- Who love comfort must it be said, is high, | StS: but of course this is uncut... Anothe very high. Grow accustomed as best you | nearly as large, is hollowed out as a bon- may to feeling it every time you move your bonniere, and one of her prettiest orna- head or bend your neck in any direction if | ments, { @ watch composed of one dark you aspire to that indefinabl> and elusive | Cmeraid hanging on to a chain of emeralds something known a: style.” and diamonds (the first jeweled chain which was ever made), and this was @itt Lace Jabots and High Collars. from the late Shah of Persia when he visit- It is in a measure to overcome many defi- | ¢d Europe some years ago. ciencies in the collar line, and also to pro- Se a vide many changer for a gown which one areseeoa 30m are very fond of ani- must wear often, that so many new ways of dressing the neck of a gown are provided | deal.” Miss H Miss Palisade—“Yes, I wear them a great