Evening Star Newspaper, April 23, 1898, Page 20

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, APRIL 23, 1898—24 PAGES. Hi The Princess of Waleg Hi The Duchess of Yor 1. The Princess Lowien, Copgright, tase, by 9. M. Baldwin, TAILOR - MADE SUITS Have an Assured Place in Every Woman's Wardrobe. SHOULD BE PLAIN AND SEVERE, ¥ Charm Lies in Perfection of Cut and Finish. ——— and one front gore vies with the one with many gores cut so narrow at the top that they leave little fullness even at tne back, still arother rival has enteced the market lin the shape of the skirt with a seam down the center of the froat as well as down the back. This style is particularly adaptable to the large plaids and siripes now so favored, and has the advantage ot being self-decorated, as tt wera, by the artistic bias junction of the lines in front. One charming costume for a tall woman a skirt cut as described of plaid French janket cloth of different shades of blues and reds, the bias lines joined by the front seam forming graceful points, which are sufficient garniture in themselves. The Lodice of bright blue cloth stretched over a lining of blue satin with many seams shows no seams except those under the arms and one down the front, which cor- responds with the front seam of the skirt. The bodice is double breasted, closing along the left shoulder and down’ the left slde SPY TIE ZLS | With tailor buttons of blue cloth. A small S£YLISH MODELS pelnt at front and back finishes below the waist line over an attached narrow ser- ——— f The Evening Star. DUBLIN, April 8, dressed woman never fails nad s there, 1898. gown among her war onsiders it the most useful, and wears Fentine basque. The bodice a V-shape: Opening at the throat, where revers of blue nile braided with red silk soutache open ever a imen shirt front with high stiff co! r and a white satin Tuxedo tie, embla 1 with large red polka dots. The sieeves are tight with the exception of a slight fullness at the shoulder, and white linen cuffs are worn. to tas s sack coat and derby Pee ee hat thiooable tes oe a roo | On another model, designed for a young rep westy Mars trates be a al EY rr fe Bayadere cloth ts of a = arefulty | USht gray ground with a tiny black stripe. Ras Siceie tabae a, thexefoxe,.- caresUly | vive akicé ical Tike Ghd GnesaeRTILea Boe ss SECO CIRY 08 CUS) AL Senate Proce. | but! naudedi pinatore’voke: omwnite eewnene ae, lt Bes Ge iorentiale | cicth The tah medics of willie claik OE er eae eC U Ce Coline: BARES COD cicaad” invisibly) ini thescundararck, andl Sake, Ser, Sbyoy tateness | of - tetumbis” | shouliier seamia and fsicoveredlby. ai ee Se > = ‘oe | Jacket of Bayadere cloth and decoratea Perches roa eee Re ite eine nt Of | with a dainty vest of white, finished with This gown is, therefore ‘Ssfui onty | gold filigree buttons and small revers of when by men tatlors, and it is only ] White, braided with gold soutache. Makers are dab The’ gown of our illustration is of mauve broadcloth. The skirt has a plain front fied, grace and has gure, while the sides and back consist of extra ies un its fune- | a drop yoke made with clusters of plpings, tiens It has been ruth that | énd a drop serpentine flounce, which falls the ball gown but th: tailor | Quite low behind. The jacket Is immaculate = in fit and presents a novelty in the opening. as well as the | It is double breasted, with two rows of aled the aim of | buttons and buttonholes, and can be worn tailor ngre- | open by folding and buttoning back each states of fashion and | side, showing the handsome brocaded lin- “he ortginat ing ‘which then forms graceful device: of . gore -ircular, The large Medici collar has rows of pip- is stil adhe Stiichiags, | Ings as a decoration, as have also the appings or brax Dor opriate ves and the scalloped basque of the gure | Jecket. The blouse to be worn under this of a close-fit- | Jacket is of white satin, with rows of pip- habit back, and | Ings horizontally across the fulled front. thus tne cutaway ja with a different | The cravat is a novelty, being made of eolored vest and shaped with ¢ each side of front te the figure, and yet A shirt front i dart and Rival Skirts. the skirt with circular cut back FASHIONABLE PERFUMES. Three of Them Are Violet, Crushed Rose and WH apolis News. » when the ted her perfum y of fragrane r the ease. There are thr of every t using. The is one the on both dressing table he Clover. From Ther m™ eT > out three seents, s of her ward while others leet any or all three ind ccording to ro of Violet ‘om the h net lasting rite fresh flower this is undoubtedly rose et on woman's h - a room the subth hich t while th makes o1 » pe Jar. am. { makes the girl whose fave — benny pee Mr. Green—“Now. at your party, your sister me for taking her away! Ethel—“Forgive you, Mr. Green! graceful curve not tight-fitting. worn with this most be- the mannish an any man would fashionable with a view n is no erfumes fashionable majority of them, | s uses it and in the numerous } perfumes is which cannot be dis- itself. ularity is crushed it bit like but like A tiny drop of perfume used 3 clothes smell as had been strewn mant for popularity is wild on | white satin with very small pipings and finishing with narrow pleatings and ruch- ings of white mousseline de sole. epoca mer: (ALFRED Mannine, Dublin) it is remind one of a breath of spring itself. This, it is claimed, is the most lasting of ahs three, and a few drops on one’s handker- chief will last as long as the article itself, neither washing nor exposure to the air ap- sani to diminish it. ¥ atest use of the sachets is for scent- ed clothes hooks. The ordinary wire ae tender for bodice or skirt is padded with cotton batting, thickly sprinkled with | Sachet powder. Over them is drawn a silk or muslin bag. shirred full around the of the extender, or tied with ribbons, at they may be easily removed when there is a necessity for renewing the pow- der. Another method employed by dress- makers, in place of the dainty bags of ‘achet formerly stitched about in the bo- som and sleeves of a bodice, ts the new ton or wool-perfumed padding. It can be bought with any scent, and more enduring. tance se- the the —+e3___ Miss Wellwood—“Yes, I belong te Daughters of the Revolution, and ane ae self upon being the most disting: Of | rere ae ee scthe mont distinguished Mr. Hargreay Indeed! trace your lineage back to s was a licn in his Jay, eh?” Miss Weliwood—“No, my great-great- srandfather was only a private, but from all that I can learn he seems to have been the only one in ihe whole army."—Cleve- land Leader. I suppose you ome man who rite I'm going to tell you something, Ethel. Do you know promised to marry me? I hope you'll forgive Of course I will. Why, that’s what the party HOUSEHOLD HINTS These be the days when all housekeep- ers on ‘household good int2nt” should visit the markets in persons. If the mar- keting has been performed vicariously during the winter, the chances are that the dally menu, as far as vegetables are concerned, has settled down to macaroni, cabbage, turnips, canned corn, tomatoes and peas. If one is out of the way of seeing things, they are quite apt to forget the infinite variety that this season of the year affords, when hotbeds and increased facilities for traftic bring the products of all climes as well as seasons into close juxtaposition. A brisk walk in the early morning to one of our large markets brings delight physicatly, esthetically and gas- tronemically. The scheme of color that develops itself in the vegetable stalls is an artistic feast of itself. Therein the tender, translucent green of great boxes of chives, baskets of crimson, juicy beets and crispy lettuce, piles of curly Brussels Sprouts and rugged selerick, bunches of watercress and vivid parsley, great stalks of pinky rhubarb and creamy salsify, trim bundles of asparagus and tempting leeks dear to the Welshman's heart. From the Bermudas and West Indies come the barrels of green and white cauliflowers, boxes of fragrant oranges, russet and_yel- low, and spicy, fragrant pineappies. From the fatherland are the tender green cab- bages so much esteemed by bon vivants for their delicacy and crispness in salads. Mushrooms in plentitude are in the mar- kets, too, and the housekeeper who from all this abundance does not find something new to tempt the jaded appetite and fore- stall the doctor with his drugs and bitters and spring tonics, is not the ingenious woman w? take her for. Dandelions have other uses than fur- nishing subjects for poems end playthings for children, and just now is the time to prove their efficacy in meeting the loss of apetite and that prevalent “tired f2el- ing” so common in the spring. From time immemorial “greens” of all sorts have been held in high esteem for purging the blood of humors engendered by the win- ter’s diet of fatty foods. The Italian women here understand this, and all through the parks and along’ the road- sides of the suburbs one sees the gay pur- ple-and-green-gowned women bending as- siduously to their tusk of gathering this hygienic salad. In the country the chil- dren are sent out to the garden and pas- ture to gather a supply—an exercise, by the way, that is quite sufficient to give a hearty appetite of itself. Dandelion greens are served in elther of two ways—in (heir natural state as a salad with the simple dressing of vinegar, oil, salt and pepper, or cooked in plenty of water with a bit of salt pork or butter for seasoning, and sal and pepper to taste. Whén tender, drain thoroughly and serve piping hot, with a arnish of slices of hard-boiled’ eggs or riced yolks. It ix hardly necessary to em- rhasize the necessity for the thorough picking over and washing of all greens in order to insure absolute cleanliness and the prevention of “gravel walks” depre- :ted by Sidney Smith as too familiar in iads. “Angels on Horseback’ is the somewhat startling name of an English dish that comes highly commended. To achieve this equestrian paradox, cut some little round pieces of bread about one-fourth of an inch thick and two inches in diameter, and fry in clarified butter until a golden brown. ‘Then spread on them a puree of anchovies, and on the anchovies a slice of crisply fried bacon, and on the bacon a “bearded” oys- ter which has previously been warmed in the oven between two plates with the addi- tion of a little butter, its liquor and a little chopped parsley. Dish the croutons up in a row, “saddle and bridle? them with an- chovies and bacon, mount the oyster, pour over all the oyster liquor and serve for a savory or breakfast dish. Toast can be used instead of the croutons, if desired. Dandelion wine ts a beverage both whole- some and acceptable. An excellent rule for its evolution calls for four quarts of dande- lion flowers, a gallon of boiling water, one lemon, three oranges, three pounds of Sugar and three tablespoonfuls of yeast. To make {t, put the blossoms in a jar, pour the hoil- ing water over them, and let them stand three days. Then take the juice and grated yellow peel of oranges and lemon and sim- mer fifteen minutes with the Nquid and ssoms. Strain, pour over three pounds ar, let it stand until lukewarm, add the yeast, and again set away covered for eight or ten days. At the end of that time strain and bott ery cellar should have a good coat of whitewash at this season, in order to k it sweet, fresh and wholesome. A for preparing a whitewash that will rub off is this, given by a goed old colored aunty, ripe In experience: Slake the lime in the usual way. Mix one gill of flour with a htUe cold water, taking care to beat out all the lumps. Then pour on boil- ing water enough to thicken It to the con- stency of common starch when boiled for use. Pour this while still hot Into a bucketful of the slacked lime, and add one pound of whiting. Stir all well to- gether, and add a little bluing water to improve the color. Grease spots cn the wall paper can usually be eradicated with a piece of blot- ting paper and a hot flatiron. If the whole surface needs cleaning, rub straight down- ward witn soft bread crumbs or cornmeal. An excellent test for the purity of the air in a room is a vessel holding lime water. If the air is bad the water absorbs the im- purities and turns milky. Cretonne lamp shades to match the fash- ionable chintz paper and hangings for bed rooms are already much in evidence. If paint marks disfigure a window a tew are of turpentine will soften them so that they may be readily removed. 2 CARE OF HARD-WOOD FLOORS. Use of the Frottoir and a Polish of Beeswax and Turpentine. From the American Kitchen Magazine. Much labor may be saved in the case of polished hard-wood floors by the use of the “frottotr,” which is simply a heavy weight covered with carpet, to which is attached a long handle. An enterprising little wo- man, after a journey on the continent, where this implement fs in general use, im- provised one by covering a brick with car- pet and catching it in the clamp with a long handle used for scrubbing brushes. It is unnecessary to buy patent polishes for this process. Melt a quantity of beeswax over the fire and stir in turpentine until tt assumes the consistency of paste. This polish is extremely inflammable and the greatest care must be taken in mixing it not to allow it to come in contact with the fire. When about to use melt a portion over the fire and spread a thin layer over the cloth-covered brick. Begin at one cor- ner and work sharply, taking an arm's length at a time. Let the new row overlap enough to avoid showing a streak. A much less enduring way is to apply a thinner polish with a brush and rub with a cloth by hand. Sweep up all dust and wipe with @ moist cloth before applying the polish. Once or twice a year is sufficient for such a polishing if a thorough rubbing ts given once a week with a broom slipped in an old cotton flannel bag. Stained and varnished floors, after being freed from dust, should be rubbed with a cloth dipped in crude oll, applying it as thinly as possible and afterward rubbing with a broom Incased as above. If the rug is not removed during the process un- hook it and lay it back to avold olling the edges. Sees Newfor Copper Supply. From the Savannah News. The copper supply of Newfoundland is said to be practically inexhaustible. The island is now the sixth copper producing country in the world. This industry was first established in Newfoundland in 1864, when Tilt Cove began to occupy the at- tention of capitalists. During recent years very satisfactory results have been achiev- ed in that district. These mines produced last year over 70,000 tons of ore at a profit of more than $115,000. The records for 1896 are somewhat incomplete, but they show an export from Newfoundland of 400,311 tons of copper ore 50,730 tons of Tegulus, and 5,240 tons valued eee es genes Sear te Am 19 s LATE FASHION HINTS What Stylish Women in New York Are Wearing. BLUE IS ALE THE RAGE JUST NOW Changes That Have Been Wrought in Tailor-Made Gowns. PARASOLS FOR SPRING ——— (Copyright, 1898, by the International Literary and News Service.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, April 22, 1898. HE TAILOR dress, which as the a neatest and most practicable form of walking costume 1s the average woman's g) ‘Bland-by." shows Ky? | this spring certain decided predilections: ‘ ¥) For the “three- \ | ther’? skirt. i\ 1 4) For the large cape collar. ‘) For the unortho- ~ ox chiffon vest. (4) For the short basqued coat, or, as an alternative, for something reminiscent of a man’s frock coat. In other words, the tailor dress has broken bounds. It; has demanded a larger liberty in matters great'and small, and the verge,of lteense.: Onde the shaped fiounce was corceded, there remained no possibil- ity of making a stand. Pipings, strap- pings, piped’ strappings and narrow hems were brought out in a bewildering number of permutations and combinations on the chance that concessions along legitimate lines might check the revolt. But all early tenets of simplicity and severity have been ruthlessly overridden and even now it is not certain that with the last pleasing ex- travagances of cut, construction and cob- webby decoration a halt has been called. A “directoire’ tailor dress seems more or less of an anomaly, but to that, among other things, we have come; narrow tunics, collars completed by ‘grandfathers’ ” frills of lace, large buttons of an eccentric order, pink muslin and tulle ruches, four-tier skirts—as if three were not an elegant suf- ficlency—and sleeves cut in eight pieces to fit skin-tight are only a few of the up-to- Gate tailor gown’s attractions. A Ptunning Gown. A strictly cons:rvative tailor costume, judging from an eminent example turned cut this week, ray be built of a fine smooth fawn cloth. ¢ flounce, from knee to hem, shows not a «mp of fullness, but lends a certain sweeping grace to the skirt and to the narrow train. A delicate silk braiding forms a double line down each side of the front, stmulating the familiar polonaise. ‘The bocice shows a zouave ef- fect of old Damayaix embroldery, blending many colors. Tu'‘4<, over with pale yel- lcw lace, tt opens q\ pear shape upon a tusted and feather~#ti ched vest of yellow mousseline de soie. The eight-piece sleeves are piped with black and end in bell cuffs lined with yellow. A picture hat of fine black straw trimmed with many feathers is demanded to complete this “taflor gown.” Less conservati~ but still erring, if at all, on the safe side is a costume which figured a few days ago at a gathering of women called together to discuss tea and tailor dresses at an establishment noted for supplying both in perfection. This sec- end dress is of a pale mushroom cloth, and is cut with a three-tier skirt, the different levels being emphasized by rows of a con- Sfcuous, and, in English phrase, ‘‘convinc- ing” black and white silk galon. The bodice is a fantastically cut zouave edged with galon, faced with red moire and open- ing wide upon a tucked chemisette of white lace and chiffon. The Large Collar. The vogue of the large collar was many times illustrated at a morning meeting held by one of the woman’s clubs yesterday. A dress of the new shade of blue-green, of which there has been an irruption within a week or two, had a deep shaded flounce set on with a piping of velvet of a stronger tone. The coat was. fashioned with a basque so short as ecardely to count in the general scheme. The cnpe collar was big enough ta make up; big enough to be a cape, practically, tgstea@ of a collar. It was nearly square, of ivdry-white cloth and was hemmed about, with velvet. The coat opened to show @ white, silk-patterned gauze vest, and was decoratively treated on both sides with old silver buttons. A collar still mor@ pronounced appeared upon a dress of another new blue, a per- fect indigo. The material in this case was cashmere, the bodice a.-closed Eton pro- tected by a cape, a,collar—call it what you like—coming well gver.he shoulders and well down the frontof the waist. A slight- ly rolled collar of hemstitched white satin was the neck finish, Ajtoque of blue and white chenille-spotted tulle, plumed with white ostrich feathers, was worn with this costume. oo Extreme in Cat. Probably the frock coat tailor dress rep- resents the present. extreme of eccentricity as to cut, though it is far from doing so as to elaboration. It is prophesied that the three-quarter length coat or basque will increase and multiply. At. present the species ia not numerous. It is represented mainly by the frock coat in checked ma- terials; I have seen it in a small check of gray and orange, the coat plain as to its skirts, but pluming ‘itself upon small vest fronts of gray cloth adorned with the em- inently useless but sometimes decorative gilt button. The standing collar was faced with orange velvet and the usual chiffon vest was observable. One of the best “directoffe” dresses I have noticed was of “harebell blue” cloth, ‘cut with a long redingote. The seams, the bottom of the skirt, the sides, the coliar— which was epaulettes were trimmed with double rows very high—and the narrow of eyelets. The redingote was tight-fitting, but scarcely compared in this respect with the sleeves, which seemed only the outside layers of the cuticle. They fell in round points over the front and back of the hand. Below the waist additional rows of eyelets formed a small trimming. A round hat, made of twists of blue velvet and trimmed with harebells, was provided; also a sun- shade of harebell-blue taffeta decorated with black ribbons. Craze for Btue. Blue, especially bright blue, is being crammed down people's throats, or load upon their backs, at such an unprec: rate that certain precautions should observed. Most of the new blues shade rcre or less upon lavender. Only after consideration. ought other women to in- frirge the copyright of the red-headed upon the biue-lavender. Given the rose and white skin that goes with auburn locks, Parma violet, Neapolitan violet, weod vio- let, harebell blue—the whole line of such colors is beccming, but the complexion of too much color, too little or—worst of all-- tirged with sallowness, is far from being helped. Another consideration one might hesitate to mention did not duty compel: To “assume a complexion though you have it not” is unsafe with lavenders; that is, easily detectable. Short coats, for wear with tailor dre: are much in evidence. Bright blue cod top paler blue gowns; green coats are worn with tan and vi. a. But the “smart” ecat is apt to nd to have white cioth facing back large double rever Such a coat is most esteemed when it has a short tabbed basque and cavalier cuffs, and 1s worn with a white buckskin belt and a bis crushable tie of white chiffon. Scppose such a coat to be the al fea- ture of one’s attire, the desirable accesso- ries are a gray cloth skirt and a gray hat trimmed with gull’s wings. od be Parnsoln, Some person more amiable than keen of juégmer.t has irvented a parasol to be attached to a bicycle. The contrivance may gain the vogue enjoyed by the bicy- cle muff, but scarcely more. Less impus- sible parasols abound. One of the sea- son’s fancies is to have the sunshade han- dle enameled to ch the cover, which in its turn matches the gown. “M erie” parasols are offered, with beasts birds, gorgons and hydras dire ning the handles. Ducks are not so bad, but at geese and donkeys most women, unless very sure of themselves, are likely to draw the line. % A “love” of a parasol is of white moire lined with rose-colored silk and edged with an innner ruffle of lace; the white enam- eled handle is surmounted by a small Cupid and is tied up with pink and white rib- Of course, there are checked sun- black and whi n and white and dark blue re favor- ites. OSBORN. gees HOME DREss MAKING. Society Girls in New York Are We ing on Their Summer Outfits. From the New York Herald. 'The fashionable girls of New York have adopted a new fad this spring that must fil! the heart of mere man with grateful glee, for It should guarante> him an eco- nomical wife. They are actually sitting down o° mornings—perhaps not every morning in the week, but two or three of them, at Jeast—cutting patterns with great irdustry and making their own summer frocks. Of course, they cannot make all the frip- Peries that fashion ts demanding this year as the natural right of every pretty girl. The girl of the summer Is to be a girl of sporting clothes, and thess feminine gar- ments must be tailor-made. But there is, nevertheless, a lot that a girl clever with ker needle can do in the way of fashioning a portion of ‘r summer wardrobe. For evening wear, after the athletic games of the day are done, there will be dainty, sof: frocks, loaded down with ruffles, tucks and inserting, still worn, ard delicate affairs such as these are what the girls of the day are making. “Sewing bees” have come into fashion again, girls “bringing around their work“ and spending the morning with each other, generaliy staying to lunch, and usually ac- complisaing a vast deal, though, truth to tell, there are some girls who think noth- ing of spending a whole morning on a pair of sleeves, having them come out wrong after all, and being dreaGfully cross all the evening in consequence. But the main point is that nearly all the society girls that are taking this new fad up are doing it well. Scores of pretty, much beruffled frocks and elaborate shirt waists this summer will bear testimony as to that. There is one interesting reason why this new fad has come in. It is all because of the ruffles, tucks and general “fluffiness” of evening frocks, it is said. A year ago all the costumes were severe and close fitting. It was impossible for a girl to make them herself. Now that precise fitting ts not needed the society girl is having her chance, and she is certainly making the most of it. ——__+«+_____ The Day of Large Fans. From the New York Herald. — The little empire fan, so popular ail win- ter and so convenient to handle, seems to have had its day. Fan fashions have sud- denly jumped to the other extreme, and the fan of the spring is nearly three times the size of, its predecessor. Closed it is full twenty inches in length, and spread out it forms a truly huge expanse for the summer girl to simper behind and blush. Big fans will from now on be all the rage, and no one knows how large they will grow before the fashion changes. As it is, the woman who wants to be in goog form can hardly get too big a fan. The new fan is being displayed in every variety, though it is too new a fashion to have gotten into all the shapes yet. The popular fans will be of feathers in every thade of color, spangled, for tinsel on everything is to be the fad of the summer, and gauze painted. -——_-e+—___ How She Acquired It. From the Chicago Post. “How did you get in the habit of lying?” asked the recording angel sympathetically, “Giving recommendations to servant giris that I wanted to get rid of any ” Nousekeoper regretfully. 1 fuss,” replied the a | Lieut. Peary, The Arctic Explorer, Says of Cleveland’s Baking Powder, which he took with him on his Arctic Expeditions: ~ “Cleveland's stood the tests of use in those high lati. tudes and severe temperatures perfectly an entire satisfaction. gave “Mrs. Peary considers that there is no better baking Powder made than Cleveland's. I shall take it again on my next expedition.” ended aeateaeedeaeaSeeteaee tated FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Hints for June Brides’ Invisible and Visi- ble Finery. : Latest Things in Shoes, Gloves, Hunt- ing Stocks and Neck Furnixshings— Gingham and Organdie Frocks. yee Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, April 21, 1898. Small thought has the June bride for the Easter bonnet which for the last three weeks has agitated the rest of her sex. All her energies are concentrate® in a problem which has delighted womankind since the days of Eve—what shall she have for her wedding garments and what for the rest of her trousseau. A complete outfit from Paris would be very delightful to be sure, but would not one miss some of the pleasant picking and choosing which only comes to most of us once in a lifetime; and, dainty and wonder- ful though the garments would be, would they have the memories which cluster around an outfit which has been studied and planned over in order that one may make the very most of the amount of cap!- tal to be expended? Nowadays we have simplified matters so much that even a fastidious woman can buy ready-made garments of rare beauty for the invistble yet important part of her new wardrobe. But this involves more ex pense than is needful for a modestly por- tioned bride. Garments of this sort will have more individuality and be less ex- pensive If a seamstress is employed at home and some of the new and beautiful patterns for underclothes purchased from some high-class fashion magazine. ‘The new and pretty conceits in underclothes are published every spring and fall in sev- eral reliable weeklies. It 1s better to ha a seamstress for a few weeks and have it over with than try to do all the work one- self and grow quite tired and unfit for fur- ther effort. Half a dozen of each garment will be quite sufficient. It»is well to re- member a dainty neglige, made preferabiy of wash silk, which comes neither under the head of tea gown or wrapper, but is so well expressed by the phrase saute de lit. A tea gown and wrapper may be one and the same, or one may have two, one elab- orate enoygh to be worn about the house at any time and the other simple and fresh and only for a small family breakfast. A couple of prettily made dressing sacks to | slip on with a white pique skirt, or a crash | skirt, if one does not wish to wear a shirt waist hot summer mornings, will be found a great comfort. Of course a silk petti- coat goes without saying. Many women have a neglige or wrapper made of some material which harmonizes with that chosen for the silk petticoat, and wear them together, the neglige parting to show the petticoat, reminding one of the quilted satin petticoats which our grandmothers wore. Ot course the number of dainty negliges, dressing gowns and sacks, tea zowns, étc., which one could have are le- | gion, but we will confine our attention only to the number with which we can be fully provided with what every dainty woman wishes without duplicating anything mere- j ly for the sake of possessing more than one of a kind. In Foot and Head’ Wear. In shoes, stockings and gloves every woman must be her own guide. She should bear in mind, however, that except for hor traveling gown she will probably wear little beside white chamois during the heat of the summer. For white chamois with black stitching are considered quits en regle for every summer function, providing only they are spotiessly clean. One pair each of black and of russet low shoes will be nec2ssary, and it will b2 found a convenience in the fall to have spats to match them, so it is better to get them now. A pair of black Patent leather shoes for calling and for church during the summer are very smart, though warm. Slippers, etc., depend upon what one >xpects to do in the way of danc- ing and dining. A pair of mules to match one’s neglige are almost indispensable. Dancing gowns may be worn with black stockings and slippers instead of being matched if one prefers i One can go happily and comfortably through a whole summer with a sailor hat and another hat for church. It is probable, hewever, that most brides would hardly be satisfied withcut a spectal hat to weur with the going-away gown. And now that sun bonnets have returned to favor under the gentle title of “golf bonnets,” it would be well to include on of them in the trous- seau. Patterns can be bought, or most millirers can make them. The smartest thing is to have a bonnet to match each summer gown with which one intends tc wear this sort of head covering, but this is going to extremes. A June bride will need about as many shirt waists as a summer girl, that is, she can get along with six, but any number up te a dozen will add to her comfort and freshness. One or two of the shirt waists should have skirts of the same material in the manner described a few weeks ago. Hunting stocks are rapidly replacing col- lars on the neck of the girl who appreciates comfort, and it would be advisable to in- vest in a few stocks at least and not ex- pend all one’s energy and money in stiff linen collars. These stocks have a white pique band about the neck and the tie is either white pique or colored madras or cheviot. Mull ties will be very much in evidence and so easily made at home that the number one has may be legion. Fash- | } | 1 j fon has kindly come to our rescue with all these substitutes for a linen coliar just in the nick of time, for most women’ o] are beginning to show the effects of the vise in which they have been imprisoned. A Roman scarf or so will make a pretty addition to neckwear. But this is so peril- ous a subject wher one wishes to save, not squander money, that we had best leave details to the individual woman interesied. A Model Going-Away Gown. The going-away gown had best be a coat and skirt if it is the oaly cloth gown one intends to have. There are so many beau- tiful models for a gown of this sort that no description need be given. It should be worn with a silk shirt waist when travel- ing. This waist can be made of any of th beautiful taffetas now used, or if wiskes to be cool, it may be of china India silk. It should be tight-fitting, or least smooth-fitting in the back and blouse in front. Every day there are beautifal models of separate waists sent over from Paris, and the ways in which a silk waist can be made are innumerable. A silk gown for churca, calling and gen zal afternoor, wear ts almost a necessity. Taffeta is too warm for this gown, which should be made of silk light enou: wear all summer wheneyer one has - sion to look weil, no matter what the ther- mometer. It should be very much trimm: Trensparent gowns are so very popular just now that one may use a half-worn silk and get a grenadine to cover it, and thus have one’s “best” gown quite or comparatively inexpensive. A silk slip can be made to serve for more than one gown, for in- stance, the indispensable organdy may be worn over the same silk lining which is used for a grenadine. Quite as useful as the organdy without which no summer wardrobe is now con- sidered complete is at least one gingham gown. This may be made up simply wich- out a lining, or it may be fitted, boned and lined, and made on silk if one wishes to mrke it very expensive. Of dinner, dancing and gowns for ovt- decors sports nothing need now be said. | The June bride will certainly need gowns for some or all of these occupations ani amusements. She will be guided by her own judgment in most things and the hints above will only be the beginning of what she can use in the way of gowns if her purse will allow a great outlay. MABEL BOYD, eae <b aS How Laces are Named. From the Woman's Home Companten. The nomenciature of lace is decided by certain peculiarities of pattern, mesh or stitches that belong to certain localities, and it is retained even when those locali- ties have long ceased to produce their distinctive fabrications. Valenciennes has not for many years wrought the laces that bear its name, their manufacture having long since been transferred to Ypres, Bei- gium, while the Chantilly laces are all made at Bayeux. The finest French laces ere made in ormandy. The cheaper ones come from the Auvergne, which was the first French province to produce pillow lace. Bayeux, with her tributary surroundings, is (he largest and best producer of black laces; ; her Chantilly ts ‘par exceilence’ the finest ever made. Caen is also a center for black laces. Normandy produces good biack and white blondes. Guipures are made in the Auvergne, but the finest come from the Vosges. Minecourt furnishes fine point and pillow lace. Brussels furnishes most of the Belgian needle points, though East Flan- ders, Brabant and Hainault now supply large quantities. The old laces for which Binche, Bruges and Flanders were once so celebrated are no longer the mode, though still mych prized by connoisseurs. This is also true of Malines (or Mechlin) lace and Valenciennes, though the latter is returning to favor. Bruges makes a round mesh Valenciennes, not so beauti- ful as the lozenge ground, and coarser qualities come from Courtral and different parts of Flanders. Lille and Valenciennes formerly belonged to the Netherlands, which accounts for their carly proficiency in lacemaking. Flemish guipures ere noted for their excellence. The Belgian and French laces are the finest, in point of fabrication, in the world. Paris is to a large extent an emporium for Belgian laces. She is the birthplace of fastiens and novelties, and dictates lace designs, keeping alive emu- lation and rewarding merit through her scelety of decorative arts. To France must be accorded the palm for black laces, while Belgium may claim it for the vaporous fineness of her points, nothing equaling in ethereal delicacy her famous point de ze. = — +068 Cheene. From the London Family Doctor. Cheese is a very rich and valuable food, likely to form a very large constituent in the future, and, especially for the working- man, to be very extensively used. There is a difference in stomachs in their ability to digest this article. The writer is able to make an entire meal of cheese with very little bread, and digest it more east! than rice or oatmeal; but in most stomachs it is less digestibie, In some extremely so. Fach person must learn for himself. It is a convenient form of animal food, and, when good, particularly agreeable. There 1s a great difference in the composition of cheese both in its water, fat and nitro- genous matter. In general, however, it may be remarked that every variety c tains a large amount of nitrogenous matter, and it is for this that It is especially use- ful as a food. Skim milk cheese is espe- cially rich in this constituent, but less rich in fat. Those who abstain from flesh food will find in cheese abundance of nitrogenous matter to take the place of that found in flesh. CONSOLATION.