Evening Star Newspaper, April 9, 1898, Page 17

FOR EVENING WEAR| - Design for a Handsome Gown of! White Satin. USE OF EMBROIDERY FOR TRIMMING: Dainty Model for a Young Woman's Dancing Frock. HINTS ON ——_+—__ Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. DUBLIN, March 28, 1508. ‘The queen's drawing rooms set the ex- ample for fashion in England and the new ideas in dress promulgated at this impor- tant social function spread farther, like ripples caused by a missile in water. When street gowns assume the right to a “dip,” then trains for evening and house wear are indeed inevitable, and all skirts are worn at stumbling length in front and | as a shoulder decoration. on the sides, as well as at the back, so that it requires more than ordinary skill and silk and velvets and flimsy laces and gauzes which make up the modern evening gown and dancing frock. The court gown adheres to its regula- tion length and the train sweeps five | wousscline underneath. amethysts and diamonds. The tiara con- sists of the same precious stones. In Simpler Fashions. The court train is of plain white satin, decorated with bunches of roses and foli- ages : The ideas which this gown conveys can be utilized in a very much simpler fashion to suit the limits of smaller purses. Tius, brocade can be used for the skirt, and “jewels’” now gold for decorating purposes in ail ieading shops can be substituted with excellent effect for the priceless gems used on the original costume. A new impetus has been given to the taste for embroidery as a trimming. Its use will not be confined to toilets of a very costly description, as has been the case hitherto. With the new incrustetions a@ new effect of the richest hand embroidery is obtained by the application of ornamen- tations executed on a foundation of mousse- line de soie, so transparent as only to be THE COIFFURE visible on close inspection. The designs are firmly outlined and only Tequire to be stitched carefully on that portion of the dress material they are in- tended to adorn. They are applicable not only to thin fabrics, such as tulle, gauze o1 mousseline, but to silk, velvets and wool- ens. This lovely fashion could be utilized in the making up of the gown of our illustra- tion. The skirt of black satin could be em- smooth } bellished by incrustration of violets anc foliage. Jet trimmings could decorate the skirt and bodice, ard black-pleated mous- seline de soie would be extremely effective @s a garniture around the train and de- collete. Violets would be very appropriate A Danciug Frock. Our other design represents a model of young lady’s dancing frock. Pale green satin forms the tight foundation of the skirt and bodice. The skirt lining is veiled with pale green pleated mousseline de soie, and over this is an overskirt of white faille, which opens in front, showing the green A full flounce of meters behind. Our illustration represents | white lace edges the overskirt in front and one of the most successful models of the | round the hem, season, and was designed by us for the beautiful Marchioness of Lansdowne. The skirt, of heavy ivory satin, is em- broidered by hand with large sprays of lilacs in natural colors. The form is an ac- centuation of the present mode of scanti- ness over the hips, while below the knces it flares out with a stiff and very full sweep, which is cut in one with the nar- row front gore. The junction of the tight upper part and the place below is covered with a narrow passementerte of silver, set with pearls, diamonds and amethysts. The back breadths form a moderate train, which is edged with a ruche of Mlac mousse- line de sole, and is lined throughout, like the skirt, with white satin. The lining of the bodice is covered with folds of lilac satin, overlapping each other and shap-=d into points in front and back, where the bodice is laced; each fold 1s cdged with Jeweled passementerie, while single ame- thysts and diamonds are sewed on pro- miscuously all over the bodice. The effect + 4s that of dewédrops sparkling and flashing at every movement of the wearer. flounce of real Brussels lace enctrcles the decollete and falls gracefully over one shoulder, while forming a jabot at the other, where it terminates under a large spray of pink roses, buds and foliage. The puff sleeves are beaded with passementerie and around the neck is worn a double string of pearls, with an exquisite star of disclosing the green skirts underneath, through its transparent meshes. The blouse bodice is also draped with pleated green mousseline, which is gathered under a jeweled gold belt. The flounces of white lace also form a bolero. The bodice is cut quite low and is held fast by jeweled gold shoulder bands. ane short drooping armpuffs are of white ile. One natural red rose, with buds and foliage, is fastened at the bosom. A novelty is shown in the dog collar of green satin, covered with rows of pearls ard surmounted at the back by a high standing ruff of lace. The hair is wern so much ad libitum that it is difficult to prophesy which par- ticular coiffure will be most admired dur- ing the coming season. Curly hair has the advantage, of course, and refuses to be brushed back “‘a la Pompadour,” which has proved such a convenient style to the woman wh) is tired of the tongs. ‘The back hair is easily done up in puffs and worn somewhat lower than last season. The Sparish mantilla comes to the fore for cool summer evenings or as a sortie de bal. It is made of silk and has a long point at the back and in front, and is trimmed with flounces or ruches of pleated mousseline de soie, lace er silk. (ALFRED Mannine, Dublin) INVENTIVE WOME) Some Useful and Unique Devices Dis- covered by the Fair Sex. From the New Orleans Picayune. It is not generally supposed that many WHEN WOMEN VOTED. Privilege Extended to Unmarried Owners of Property. From the Boston Transcript. Kentucky, which in 1845 made voters of of the labor-saving inventions of the world | Widows and spinsters who were holders of may be credited to women. The Chinese | real estate, only followed the footsteps of Empress Tao, for example, worked out use- | Maryland, which had done the same thing ful ideas in her busy brain. She invented thirty years before. I have not the author- ? : ities at hand which would enable me to the spinning of silk, never dreaming of the | ‘He immense industry that would grow from | 8ive exact dates, but about the year 1820 her creation. A luxurious woman of Asia discovered the attar of roses, and this same woman, Mhearal Misi, invented the ingen- fous handicraft, the cashmere shawl. His- tory is silent as to her end. The women who are kept from want by the making of | 4 requisit pillow lace have reason to bless the name | franchise, of Barbara Uttmann of Saxony. Wood en- graving was discovered by the Cunto sis- ters, two Italian women, and it was the widow of General Nathaniel Greene who made the suggestion of the cotton gin, which was perfected by Eli Whitney. The grandmother of Clara Louise Kellogg in- vented an attachment to the machinery in looms in mills, and another woman's genius worked out a device for deadening the vay trains. A Miss Knight 2per bag, and at once people wondered why so simple a contrivance had never been thought of before. Mme. De Long invented metal-cutting machinery, which has been used in France for some time. This machinery is worked by steam, and from the solid metal cuts out gates and other architectural work with- out casting. Mme. De Long has cut plates of brass a foot thick into lattice work at a single operation. She has also made pic- ture frames, crests and lace pins, turning them out of the metal fully finished, every eperation being performed by the steam- Griven machinery. She first conceived the idea of her remarkable apparatus over 20 years since, when a paralysis of the right p bees compelled her to give up her trade of Jewel worker. She has received many med- ls from various Paris expositions. ‘The first laureate crown ever offered to a wo- an hes been bestowg upon Mme. De eng by the Society of French Architecis fn Paris, Mrs. Barton Parnell, who has worked for over forty years in the Austra- lian gold mines, has made fame and for- tune for herself as an assayist. She dis- covered the secret of treating ore before unmarried women who were holders of real estate to a given amount were en- titled to vote, and did very generally ex- ercise the right of franchise. In colonial days the states of the south generally made the ownership of property e to the exercise of the right of while the New England colonies Senerally made church membership a necessary qualification of the voter. Fol- lowing the idea that only property holders should vote, it was @ natural step to con- clude that Maryland, refore, deciGed that where the ownership of property was vested in a woman who had not a husband to repre- sent her she should be a voter. I have many times heard my grandmother tell of voting during the days of her wid- cwhood and describe the manner of exer- cising the franchise in those days. There Was but one voilng place in the county, and all clectors were required to go to the county town to cast their votes. She lived in the county of Talbot, Place for the entire the county seat. There was no casting of a ballot, nor was the system like the viva voce vote which prevailed in Kentucky un- til a few years ago. But the candidates for-e@ice sat in the election room, and each voter was expected to look them over and select the one for whom he or she desired to vote, afid the clerks made a record of the decision. Candidates for state offices Were expected to have representatives in each county. These were leading people of the party to which the candidate be- longed, and each one was expected to be wal qualified to discuss the merits of the canaidate he represented. In those days the elections lasted four days in order to give ample time for every one to get to the voting place. Some time late in the ‘40's the spirit. of - progress required a sweeping away of the barriers which the property qualification had set up, and a constitutional convention decided in favor of giving the bailot to every white male voter who had reached the age of 21 years. céunty was Easton, reasting it so that as much gold as brown | AS the right of a woman to vote was stone could be obtained from it. Mrs. Par- nell intends to found a college in England for women, where they will be trained to be practical miners. It Is stated that there ere. nearly 5,000,000 self-supporting women in the United States alone, and it is ditti- |: cult to find a branch of tradé in which they &re not doing successful work. ——_+o+—__ “What @ disgrace! He has gone on the houll say so! The stage was, bad @ucugh before!”—Philadelphia Bulletin. on the idea of property qualification, when that was swept away she lost the ballot. I merely recall this fact to show that Maryland, which was the ‘first colony to guarantee reHgious liberty to alt her peo- Pie, and which took the ‘ toward securing the present Constitut of thé United States, was also the first to give the ballot to woman’ the country?” ” “. son, Jays,” answered the bunco and the voting |. “Paw, what are the ‘natural resources’ of] OUSEHOLD HINTS This is the time when the carefal house- keeper is thinking of relegating her furs to a summer seclusion, and a jum on the best method of caring for them comes in order. A professional storer of furs declares the keeping of them through Warm weather cdsy enough if one only knows how—and that if women would use a few simple preventives they could keep them at home as well as the furriers in their storerooms. The great secret of keep- ing furs is in cleaning them thoroughly be- fore they are put away. If a moth or moth egg goes with them into the closet or chest, an elegant garment may be quickly spoiled. The greatest care should be taken, there- fore, to beat and comb furs clean before storing them away. For this. purpose a slender, strong stick or a regular fur comb may be used. If room is abundant, a special dark closet may be given up to the keping of furs. In this case, paper it all over, top and bottom, with tar paper, cov- ering this with a second coat of newspaper, to prevent sticking. Here the garments may hang without crushing or wrinkling, and from here they can be readily taken cut once a month and examined. Failing a closet, however—and few there are who can attain to taat luxury—a clean, tight barrel, or chest, whose interior has been carefully pasted over with tar paper and wewspaper, will answer very well. If re- duced to the. extremity of a pasteboard box, any of the numerous moth prevent- ives may be used, care being taken to. sew them in bags or wrap them in tissue paper, to prevent contact with the fur, and con- fequent discoloration. Yellow is unquestionably the true color for Easter decorations, if one would make them symbolic of the season, When Fran- cesea di Rimini would embroider 4 scarf for_her Paola she drew the yellow silk through green and “thought of sunbeams nestling in a tuft of grass.” A center- piece of daffodils, narcissus, jonquils or tu- lips, bordered by foliage of bronze gresn or mignonette, is always effective and ar- tistic, giving a suggestion of sunlight. Ata recent breakfast given by a noted woman’s ¢lub, the programs laid beside each plate had covers of shaded blue decorated in daffodils, while little floral paper boxes, with. tops simulating jonquils, held the bon- bons. Ices, cakes, confections and salads May all be of the sama cheery color for the Lemon baskets cut out of bright-colored fruit and filled with fish or glad Eastertime. lobster mayonnaise salad, allowing a basket eo each person, make a pretty addition to the “table. These recaptacles should be chilled by putting in the ice cream freezer, and then packing the can in ice and salt, until shortly before serving they are r3- moved and filled. Health experts unite in giving a high place to almonds as a nerve, brain and muscle food. As a relish, salted almonds cannot be surpassed. While tha business is largely in the hands of confectioners, the Process is so simple that any housewife can achieve it at half the cost. The best nuts for this purpose are the Jordan al- monds from Spain, though any others will answer. Pour boiling water over the sholl- ed nuts, let them stand a few moments, then rub off the skin between the thumb and forefinger. Spread the almonds on a pan in th2 oven for five minutes to dry. Put a tablespoonful of olive oil over them, toss so that they are thoroughly coated, sprinkle a little salt on them, toss again, and leave for awhile in the oil. Then spread again on a pan in a rather quick oven and let them r2main five or ten min- utes until a golden brown. Stir occasion- ally while browning. They must be crisp and delicately colored. Butter may be used in place of the olive oil if desired, allowing a tablespoonful to a half pound of tha al- monds. If it is desired to “devil” them, a Pinch of cayenne 1s sprinkled over the nuts while crisping. Sunshine cake seems especially appro- priate for Easter. The ingredients requir- ed are the whites of seven rather small eggs, beaten stiff with a wire beater; the yolks of five eggs beat2n with a Dover beater until lemon colored and thick; one cupful granulated sugar, two-thirds of a cup of sifted flour, one-third of teaspoon of cream tartar, one saltspoon of salt, and one teaspoonful of orange extract. Stir the sugar lightly and quickly into the bzaten whites, then add the yolks and flavoring, and fold in the flour, which have been sift- ed five times with the cream tarter and salt. If you have an angei cake tin, use it, otherwise a narrow bar tin will answer. Line the tins with buttered paper, and cover with buttered paper“f apt to bake too fast. Have the oven quite cool. (A good plan is to leave tha oven door open for fifteen minutes before putting in the cake, which gives it a chance to heat gradually before crusting over). Bake from thirty-five to fifty minutes. When cool, frost with icing made of the beaten_yolks of one or two eggs, stirred rather stiff with confectioners’ sugar. Flavor with orange or vanilla, With the spring crusade against dirt, visible and invisible, the cane-seated chairs should come in for their share of attention. They require a vigorous scrubbing with brush and warm suds to which a little household ammonia has been added. Scrub beth vides of the seat, rinse well and dry in the open afr. Waillow chairs are beneiited ‘by 9 bath in warm salt water. If they have lost their natural color, it is said that a sclution of chlorine will restore it. To renovate the tops of writing tables and leather chairs sponge lightly with warm soapsuds, then wipe over with the white of eggs, whipped stiff. To clean painted walls, wash with a large sponge dipped in warm water in which soda has been dissolved, using xlways a downward movement. Change the water as often as soiled. Wipe dry with waste or soft flannels. Sanl soap is recommended as specially useful in case of small boys, whose hands frequently refuse to yield to the softer per- suasions of ordinary soap and water. It may be made at home much cheaper and better than it can be purchaged. Cut into smali pieces any pure soap and melt it. ‘When quite soft remove from the fire and stir into the mixture about half the quan- tity of clean, dry sea sand that has been well heated. As scon as the mixture Is cool enough to handle roll into balls or cut into squares, and put into a cool placa to dry and harden. In_putting down a new oil cloth, remem- er it will last twice as long if you give it a thin coat of varnish and let it dry well before using.. A little milk in tepid water is excellent to wipe oll cloths or painted floors. A bit of soap applied to a creaky hinge on the point of a leadpencil will usually cure its stiffness and silence its creaking. Shad roe mixed with butter or lemon juice, or a little chopped pickle, makes an appetizing sandwich. Kerosene ofl will make a tin tea kettle as bright as new. Rub with a soft woolen cloth. A little, salt sprinkled on a hot stove will remove any disagreeable odor. ———_-e-—_____ (Copyright, 1898, Life Publishing Company.) 22s tr, Sertng, teat play the rane Uinee swear a little; But I shal stop 40 know it!. T’'ve.done it every time re st Bl Ee IN CLASSIC STYLE The Season’s Gowns Must Sweep in Graceful Curves. CAREFUL TREATMENT I$ NECESSARY —————— An Idea Capable of Beautiful De- velopment. EFFECTIVE EASTER HATS (Copyright, 1898, by the International Literary and News Service.) Special Correspondence of The ing Star. NEW YORK, April 8, 1898. The sun that dances aster morning will have 2 fine chance to note betw2en meas- ures to what degree, of common sense in Gress we have attained. The idea that has bean definitely accepteil for the coming summer is capaMDe of a far more graceful and beautiful developmentsthgn any fash- jon that has been imposed-on us in a good many years. Hb Periodically, it sebms,”we go back to the Greek; we take soft, supple stuffs and Piease ourselves with. draping them in lorg, unbroken lines; -The one thing we require’ of a garment 41‘ these moods !s that it must “flow.” Curve must melt into curvé, and, instead df serving as an in- G:fferent foundation 'to’bé built upon with an unrelated structure covered with non- descript decorations; *the’ body must mold its coverings, must Wie treated as the liv- ing core of them. Af‘otie'time and another we have carried this thotight so far as al- most to require, like’ the ‘Romans, the’ ser- vices of a “‘vestipli¢a” or’ clothes folder, a maid especially educated to adjust draper- jes In mpareral laitwdfter a’ garment had beer pi on. Ei {7 91% bolt § This Easter season the. classic. manta is upon us. Every gown must,sweep in long, slow curves, breaking mysteriously in rip- pling waves at the feet, “Nearly every spe- cies of trimming inuse has for its purpose the “hiding” of junctioris. Revers, cojlars, cuffs, flounces are all cut “en forme,” 80 that one part of a garment may widen or Narrow out of another, as if by some law of growth of its own, Vine effects, true lovers’ Knot, ete., in embroidery and. ap- plique, flutter their tendrils and their wav- ‘ends over every seam to disguise er ob- literate it wholly. Demands Careful Treatment. Theré {sho dress that ought to™bé so beautiful, there is no dress that succeeds usually in making a woman so nearly-into the keness of a trussed turkey. The best dressed wom2n I know are following this Greek law that we have given ourselves very literally as regards their reception and dinner gowns, ‘their carriage dresses and costumes for all occasions of state and ceremony. They recognize that it is the ideal law for stately iotion, for dignity and beauty and grace and ease in a draw- ing room. They recognize, too, that if they were to apply it to their tailor dresses and Were then to rush to catch a street car the motion of their heels would remind on- lookers of a steamship propeller kicking up @ white Swirl. When Diana went a- hunting she kilted her draperies above her knees. I have seen a stately, slow-moving Arab in Cairo pick up his’ clinging silk robe and throw it over his arms when he ran for a troliey, but a woman can’t do that on Broadway; wherefore the woman who walks in skirts after the Greek does s0 with a waddle. Now the tailer dress, in other words the street dress, is pre- cisely that upon which modistes are trying most laboriously to demonstrate the Greek idea; which illustrates the occasional per- versity of dresemakers and gives the sun of Easter morning his opportunity. Easter Hats. One of the prettiest Easter hats I have seen is of the favorite iris blue straw; its crown rises out of the swordlike leaves and the flowers of the small fleur de Hs, or “flower de luce” of country gardens. Its brim is turned up at the back to show flowers and silk of the same shade. A simple but very. “smart” hat is of bis- cuit-colored rush straw, nearly of the sail- or shape and loaded with popples shading from pink to scarlet. A large picture hat of gathered yellow chiffon has its brim outlined with black velvet. A scarf of white lisse treated with black appliques is twisted dbout the brim and a huge bunch of ospreys nods on the we side. Under the prim are yellow lowers. s A toque of hyacinth ‘blue chiffon is trim- med with the ineviteble Parma violets, Four shaded violetitips stand up on one side and a fan of laee deeorates the front. Hats that have yery;jittle to do with Easter are sloucheq, felts in gray or blue, with miniature iskets crossed on the front; these appear ‘at t every street A. charmi te fi Hellotrope and leaf charming toijet » dreds, ng and = and parasol. A ‘dull heliotrope is ‘sii The bodice is velvet, ivory guipure The'hat 3s of green chenille with a green velvet rosettes, ull heliotrope glace, \ An Eftcetive Costume. other heavy straw turban goes with this dress; it is decorated with green net and some bracken fronds. I have seen a very similar dress made up in blue veiling over white. The blue was an exquisite but unnamable shade, like so many of the new tints, which one person might call blue and another violet or helio- trope. ELLEN OSBORN. ———_++— DAINTY AND DELICIOUS. Creole Method of Prepnring Food in New Orlenns. From the Philadelphia Press. New Orleans cookery has always Lad a magical sound. It has appealed to native and outsider ever since French colontza- tion in this country. The first question I was asked by the household on returning from the Mardi Gras was: ‘What did you have to eat?” The question was hard to answer. Rather, what didn’t I have tc eat? When one breakfa$ts and dines at restau- rants where a wager is ccnstantly laid on the table as to what are the ingredients of the dish just eaten, it certainly is a difficult problem to solve, this one of “What did you have to eat?” I actually saw that wager given again and again. It would be probably near the truth to say that one eats a little of everything in New Orleans. One eats very little in New Orleans, but one eats ofte: The French serve often and sparingly with exceeding daintiness. They believe about the art of eating as the Japanese believe in the art of decoration— one rose in an exquisite vase -s worth 100 flowers. So the dish excellently served, de- liberately and daintly cooked with its one Nquid, is better far than a groaning board. The day is begun with a cup of coffee and a roll—an egg, if one wishes it. Then breakfast at 10 or 11 o’clock. It is a city of restaurants, and he who has only lodgings lives at the chef's taste, at the epicure’s board. The flavor and taste of their coffee is different from that gotten north or west of Lake Ponchartrain, unless in the hostel- ries with French chefs. I watched the most famed cook in the city make it one morning, and this was how it was done: It had been partially roasted at the mar- ket, but she put about two cupfuls in a pan with a lid and roasted it a bit more. Heat.brings out the flavor. Into the coffee mill it went, and the fresh grounds were put into a tin dripper. This dripper she laid over a brown stone jar, which was en- tirely warm, and then poured the boiling water into the dripper. She placed the stone jar in front of, not on, the stove. Only a little water at a time was poured over it, and two or three times the who'> contents of the jar were poured through the dripper, for extra strength. The result was a coffee that was rich, brown and fra- grant. The cup was poured only half full, the rest made up with hot milk. It was nectar! Snails were served often and delightfully. A salad of them is served for breakfast. The shrimps are pink, tiny and fresh. whey are laid over crisp, curled lettuce leaves. Over them are shaken oil, vinegar, pepper and salt. The clever chef never beats up his dressing. He just throws each ingredi- ent over without any measuring but the eye. Invariably he-pours it out from the bottle to the salad, then mixes it all up with the wooden spoon and fork. Liver is a frequent dish, cut very thick and served very hot. Very little if any hot bread is seen. The bread is delicious. It is broken, never cut. The crust is thick, the bread is porous and one can eat the most inexcusable amount of it. New ur- leans butter is simply delightful, but never superior to the Pennsylvania brand. The concoction of dishes 1s entirely differ- ent. Garlic has touched everything that can be improved by the flavor, and mush- rooms or truffles are constantly used. Ome- lets are rarely served plain. Omelet souffle is the favored way of cooking, and sweet- breads, truffles, oysters and brains are often used. Their omelets are made ex- ceedingly thick and quite brown. Roast beef and mutton are not so favored with them as chicken, turkey, venison and squirrel. These meats are made into a composition dish oftener than served as a plain roast. And with everything one drinks claret. Not in a wine glass! Dear me! No! But in a large water tumbler, half fillea with ice and diluted with water. Your good Frenchman never gets drunk, but he drinxs always! ——_+ 0+ ___ A Woman's Stomach. From the Sioux City Tribrne. “The longer I liv>,” said the house physi- cian of one of the big hotels, “the more I wonder at and admire the female stom- ach. That abused organ, cabined, cribbed and confined in a corset two sizes too small, can stand more hard knocks than any pugilist that ever stepped into the ring. ‘The average woman at a hotel has the choice of .a ‘world of things to eat ani does not know in the least what to eat. Here is a list of the things that were stow- ed away at my table the other gay by a spirituelle creature, weighing not more than one hundred pounds, and measuring seventeen inches about the middle: Soup, fish with rice sauce, olives, sliced cucum- bers, sweet breads, turkey with chesinut dressing, grouse, asparagus, new potatoes, caufiflower with cheese, two helpings of lobster Nawburg, lemon pudding, ice cream, cakes, Roquefort cheese and coffee. The liquids were a glass of white wine and a quart bottle of beer, wnich she shared with her father. No, I was not cali tend her. That is ninety- and take a great deal of exercise. My consisted of a light soup, stale bread, @ Mberal portion of beef, some peas, asparagus, cheese and coffee. That was Piety, if not too much. And women will rink sherry, milk punches, cocktails and concoctions and perhaps feel the effects of them, too. But they get over it quickly.” . ——_+o + ____ Easter Thoughts. Only rounded spoonfuls are not eveland’s required, of 1G POWDER. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Tailor Smartness and Style in Canvas and Duck Dresses. Summer Gowns in Lace-Trimmed Or- gandics and Muslins, With Pointed Flounces. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, April 7, 1898. Last year the most sensible and complete summer gown was of duck or cotton can- vas, made with plain skirt and Eton or blazer jacket, with shirt waist of contrast- ing color. This summer we are to go a step further, and the utility gown is of canvas, duck or pique, and consists of a shirt waist with plain skirt of the same material. The mcdels of these gowns which have been displayed so far are marvels of smartness, plainness and neatness. The skirt is al- ways plain when this heavy cotton ma- terial is used, but if one chooses to indulge in gingham for a gowm of this sort a flounce, either circular or pointed, may be added. The shirt waist shows many variations when it has the added dignity of @ skirt of its own to fall back on. It may be either bloused or plain, with tucks large and few, or small and clustered, or box plaits. A fetching model in pale = canvas cloth had four box plaits down fhe front of the shirt waist, and bloused perceptibly. The skirt was plain and a white leather belt and white pique hunting stock com- pleted a model of freshness and cleanliness. A white sailor of rough straw is to be worn with this gown. Another model was of linen-colored can- vas. The shirt waist in this case was quite plein, Had no tucks at all and did not blouse. A red belt and white stock with red tie and yellow straw sailor hat, with white band raised slightly above the crown, andered wings on the left side, made a charming picture: These gowns, it ts needless to say, can be made at home most successfully, and endless are the beautiful cotton fabrics which may be used in their composition. The models described came from one of the exclusive shops where these designs originated, and such a gown, if made to order there, would cost quite as much as a spring gown of silk. But in these days of most perfect tailor patterns in shirt waist and skirts the utility gown and the more dainty summer gown should be made at home. They will have an in- dividuality not to be acquired in any other way. Of course, the shirt waist, gown and skirt’. being the latest have somewhat | eclipsed the fame of cotton blazer and | Eton suits, But these very useful and suit- akle gowns will still be much wern. They are extremely becoming to slender peo- ple. An especially smart one of white Pique has a double-breasted jacket, with turned-back lapéls of white embroidery. The jacket blouses slightly and is finished at the waist by a belt of embroidery. Most of the jeckets 4his spring which are belted at. the waist line dispense with the littie skirt or flounce below the belt, which was such a feature of the winter coats. Suits of white linen or duck or of brown linen, with turn-back lapels covered with white jy embroidery, wiil also be worn. Last summer one of the distressing sights was suits of blue or brown linen or some even heavier cotton not properly laundered. It does seem almost needless to say that cctton and linen in the heavier weaves must have starch in the jacket, and must be sent at once to a jaundry as soon 4s wrinkles appear. If women would only emulate the ways of men when they wear white duck or crash, many dowdy-looking gowns would ke greatly improved. Dainty Organdie Gowns. When we turn to diaphanous summer ma- terials the field of choice is bewildering!y wide. Even more than last year is a silk slip considered necessary for a lining to organdie gowns. Fortunately for those whose purses forbid silk lMnings by the wholesale, there are many excellent lin- irgs on the market this year which have @ soft, bright finish. These linings come in all the colors of the rainbowt and are ccmparatively inexpensive. Another very gcod device is to use one’s drop skirt for several gowns. For instance, if one is going to indulge in a silk-lined gown this spring it will, of course, be made with a drop skirt. Have this lining separate at the waist as well as at the foot of the skirt. That is, do not have the lining put into the same band with the outside A small extra quantity of the lining is all that will be reeded for a low-necked sli The skirt ruffled from hem to waist is the most summery end graceful of all, and the one mest suited to soft, clinging fab- rics. The ruffles may be narrow, and there may be very many of them, or they may be -widenod into flounces, and then it will take only three or four to make the skirt. Whatever is chosen, it is safe to say that at least one or two summer gowns should be made = this ey, nue J one is ion scious of t! the scales at a in which nae addition of furbelows to superfluity. les have almost all of them insertions of Valenciennes lace. Many of them have turn-back lapels, with square points, which remind one of a lace hardkerchief, and full, soft white mull points. An especially beautiful model has a ficht corsage over this soft front. Across the bust ribbons meet and tie, and the flounce of the fichu falls over the shoulder ere legion. The most becoming are made with a circular flounce and apron fro! the skirt, and a surp! waist, with wide, rolling collar, square in the back, trimmed with a ruffle of white embroidery. With this simple, yet becoming, model «a white dickey is worn, with a four-in-hand or string tle MABEL BOYD. on +> PAREPA R 0 EASTER. A Day Which She Long Remembered an U One. From the New Mall and Expre: “Myra, this is perfect rest!” exclaimed “We shall be quite alone for four “Yes, foar long hours. There will be no rehearsals; nobody else knows where you are.” Parepa laughed merrily at the id well she might. At J1 that day she had sung at one of our large New York church- es, and I had insisted on her going home with me. We were friends in Italy, and so she readily consented. But by noon the sky was overcast and gray. the snow, whitening streets and roofs. We hurried home and sat close to the fire for an afternoon's enjoyment. There was a sharp rap at the door, and @ note was thrusi in. It read: “My dear frien Can you come? Annie as gone. She said you would be ewre to come to her funeral. She spoke of you to the last. She wil! be buried at 4.” “Oh, dear! I must go,” said sit by the fire end rest. I'll be at home in two hours. And so poor Annie has gone!’ “Tell me about it, Myra,” said Parepa. “for I am going with you;” and after I had told the story she threw on her heavy cloak, wound her long, white woolen scarf about her throat, drew on her gloves, and we set out together in the wild Easter storm. The driving storm made us late, and we fcund the hard-working fricnds sitting stiffly against the walls. A minister came, brought as a mere mat- fer of formality by the undertaker. Icler than the pitiless storm without, colder than the grave were his words. He read a few verses from the Bible, warned the be- reaved mother “against rebellion at the, Divine decrees,” made @ brief prayer and was gone. The undertaker looked at the great singer and me, as if to say, “It’s time to go.” Without a word Parepa arose and walked to the head of the coffin. She laid her white scarf cn an empty chair, threw her ‘cloak back from her shoulders, wiere {it fell in long, soft black lines from her noble figure, like the drapery of mourning. She laid her soft, fair hand on the coid fore- head, passed it tenderly over the wastel, delicate face, looked down at the dead girl a@ moment, removed some Easter liltes®l had brought from the stained box to the thin fingers, and with illumined eyes sang the glorious melody: “Angels, ever bright and fair, Take, ch, take her to thy care.” Her voice,rose 6nd fell in all its richness and power and beauty and pity. She look- «a above the dirgy room and the tired faces of men and women, the hard hands and the struggling hearts. She threw back her head and sang until the choirs of para- dise must have paused to listen to the Faster music of that day. She passed her hands caressingly over the girl's soft, dark nair, and sane « “Take, oh, take her to thy car The mother’s face grew rapt _an¢ Suddenly she threw my hand off an¢ ai Parepa’s feet. close to the wood tes. She locked her fingers togethe and sobs breaking forth. She pr that God would bless the angel Annie. I led her back to her seat last grand notes of Parepa’s voice rose tri- umphant over all earthly pain and sorrow. I thought that no queen ever went to her erate with greater ceremony than this ycung daughter of poverty and toil, com- mitted to the care of the angels. That night thousands listened to Parepa’s matchless voice. Appla' rose to the skies, and her own face was gloriously swept with emotion. I joined in the en- thusiasm; but, above the glitter and the shimmering of jewels and dress. and the heavy odors of Easter flowers, the sea of smiling faces and- the murmur of voices above, the sleet on the roof and the roar of the storm outside, I could hear Parepa’s ; voice singing up to heaven: “Take, oh! take her to thy care!’ —oo—____ ‘Women in Japan. From the Chicago Times-Herald. ‘The marvelous development and advance- ment cf Japan within the last quarter century has been marked by most radical changes in the treatment and social status cf woman. The opponents of woman suf- frage in this country will find Japan a fruitful field for their missionary labor, for in no part of the world is woman today ing more rapid advancement toward equality of the sexes. Visitors to Japan comparatively a few years ago found the gentlewoman of the island empire popularly regarded as mere toys, willing to be sold into virtual slavery for about $6 a month. No stigma attached to this custom, and the daughter sold into slavery for the support of her parents ofien returred afterward to her grade of society and contracted an honorable mar- riage. At that time Japanese women of the higher grade led gay and easy lives, but they, tco, were taught that woman's chief jewel was ignorance, and a writer in the Criterion has fittingly described them as “mere glorified toys.”