Evening Star Newspaper, February 19, 1898, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 1898—24 PAGES. x SPRING MILLINERY Artificial Flowers Taking the Place of Feathers. GOWNS FOR TAILOR-MADE GIRLS Stylish Costumes That Appeal to Every Sensible Woman. —__. —__—— A MODEL OF GRAY CLOTH eT Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. BRUSSELS, February 10, 1898. In the spring woman's farcy turns to dress, as man's does to love (according to the poet), and we are not very sure but what the latter may be the outcome of the former. For she is most irresistible—the modern maid, as she steps out into spring balm and sunshine, the very essence of spring itself, and rivaling nature, whose fairest child she is—in newness of garb and brightness of color. From her standard of beauty and grace She is inclined to look pityingly upon such exalted models as the Venus of Milo her- | self, and wonders how women got on and what they had to think about before the days of stays and extenders and frills and furbelows and tailor-made gowns. These latter particularly make such a fitting frame to the picture of emanctpa- tion for which she intends to pose—they are so mannish, you know! wearing a triple sailor collar, a yoke of Velvet and a yest of mousseline de soie! However, these accessories look charming on the fin de siecle woman, and thus they fulfill their missions, and the fair wearer is satisfied, and thus, as iong as woman cultivates her natural instinct of the be- coming and the beautiful #s well as thought and action, man need have no fear for their homes and ideals, ani the “Ewig Weibliche,” as Goethe so eloquently terms it, will never be lost in the surge of fancies, whims and fashions. For Sensible Women. The tailor-made gowns appeal to every sensible woman as being the most suitable garment for spring outedoor wear, the ma- terial and form being impervious alike to March winds and April showers. The jacket and plain skirt are most con- venient; but in this season of elaborate mmings, the woman who looks to beauty as well practicability has discarded them on the ground that they are too se- vere. Fashion, therefore, offers a number ot beautiful end appropriate models, one ot which we submit to the American’ pub- Q This model is made up of silver-gray cloth, and is lined throughout with laven- der taffeta. The skirt has a very novel she The front gore is one long and herrow piece, which appears as a tablier, while the side and back breadths form a d of low, tight yoke, extending below knees at the sides, and reaching higher the back. To this yoke is attached a wide skirt, the fullness of which ts gath- BEAUTY AND AGE. en Who Carried Their ood Looks Over the H: New York Tribune. It is sai¢ that Ellen Terry is more be tiful fifty-five y of age than she was at thirty, but Ellen Terry is dowered at rs with the immortal charm of a gracious- ness that will keep her forever young and forever beautiful. And this reminds | one that Mme. Recamier when fifty-four s of age was declared to be the most beautiful woman in E urope. In the day of her poverty, when she retired to the Abb: aux Bois, she exercised an in- sven more p sive than in eari- ier years, when she was as remarkable for | her friends of either sex as for her lovers. At the time ef h death an Ameri Woman asked Gui w oft m, and he re; athy! sympath are the keynote of a woman's death- arm, that is potent in all ages and time. nking of Mme. F r fascinath ™m: thi mer, many Imagine a man | in appearance, | ered into very wide pleats, which meet at the back. A Modified Blouse. The bodice of silver-gray cloth slightly affects the blouse form in front, while quite tight-fitting at the back, which is partly covered by a large triple sailor col- lar extending over the shoulders and fin- isting in slender points gathered into the belt. A vest of fulled and crinkled white meusseline de soie, confined at the chest and throat by a yoke, and a high standing col- lar of velvet of a darker shade of gray, and adorned with six buttons of cut steel. The belt is of dark-gray velvet, trim- mings and buckie of cut steel. The novel garnitures of the plain sleeve consists of straps of silver-gray cloth, attached with many rows of silk stitching. The hat is a plain sailor of gray fancy straw, with a rim edged with a narrow band of dark-gray velvet. Another band encircles the crown, which is further adorned with a gray bird on one side, and full folds of white. mousseline de soie at the back. Under the rim at the back are a few pink crushed roses nestling close to the hair. This brings us to the subject of millinery. Flowers Supplant Feathers. We are thankful to say that birds and feathers will be abandoned as decorations and artificial flowers will take their place, and will be gladly welcomed, for their beauty is exquisite. Headgear this spring is more graceful and becoming than it has been for a long time, the clumsy top-heaviness which has char- acterized the winter hat befng discarded | for more natural shapes and trimmings of masses of spring flowers, bows of ribbon and puffs and rolls of mousseline. Stand- ard straws, like Panama and Leghorn, are again coming to the fore, and hats follow the same rule as gowns. The form will be simple, but the trimming must be rich and various. The crowns are generally low and the brims wide. A charming model is a white Leghorn | with the approved low crown and flat round | brim. A very full wreath of forget-me- | note, so natural that one could fancy them | just ‘picked from the border of the meadow brook, is laid over the crown of the hat, not encircling it, however, but just falling over it; the brim is turned up at the back and trimmed with pink roses and black velvet | ribbon and a buckle. The open space that is left in the center of the wreath {s filled in by a very high-standing bow cf hlack velvet ribbon held by an exquisite strass buckle. Another Novelty. Another novelty is seen on a large hat of white straw trimmed with roses and white chiffon and white satin ribbon. It con- sists of long strings of this white ribbon, which are brought forward and pinned in a legere bow at the chest, thus forming a be- coming frame to a young face. Bonnets, though worn only by elderly la- dies, are dainty little conceits, made for the purpose of lending charm to the occasional silver threads among the glossy hair and giving a beautiful dignity to the few wrin- kles wh... have ruffled the brow as a re- sult of serious thought and stern contact with the realities of life. Velvet bonnet strings have been replaced by full “barbe of net illusion or lace, | which are tied in a large, full bow under | the chin and prove very flattering. Hise & Co., Brussels. Amsterdam, Cologne, Dresden, and Hamburg. other names are suggested, and it will be remembered that Mme. Mars, a celebrated French tragedienne, is said to have been beautiful at sixty-five years of age ounger da Mme. de Maintenon s forty-three years of age when she wedded Louis XIV. Ninon de I'Enclos was the idol of three generations, and she was enty-two years old when the Abbe de arais fell in love with her, and it is stated that she received a declaration of love on her elghtieth birth: Diane de Poitiers at thirty-six years of age, and for many years afterward, was considered one of the most beautiful women in the court of France. Cleopatra was past thirty years when she enslaved Mark Antony, and she | held him enthralled until her death, ten | years later. Helen of Troy was over forty rs old when her world-famous elope- ment took place, and when the fortunes of war restored her to Menelaus, ten years ter, he received her with gratitude. As- tsia Was thirty-six years old when wed- by Pericles, and at sixty-six years of she was still beautiful. Many notable mes could be added to this list of wo- men whose fascination increased with e nd whese lives exempiified the f the oft-quoted remark that a charming woman has no age He—“Stunning hair that girl over there has! I should think when she undoes it, it ‘Would fall below her waist.” She (jJealous)—“Yes; right on the floor, I should think!"—Punch, HOUSEHOLD HINTS ‘The souvenir spoon, the tea pot, the pitch- er and the tea cup collector, while still pursuing their several ways with more or less ardor, are totally eclipsed this season by the beer mug fad, the cupidity of whose devotees knows no bounds. Six medium- sized mugs ranged about a larger one is the usual arrangement, and the very least that one possessed of the craze can get along with. There is, however, no limit to the number to be desired, provided they differ in design and,legend. The favorite mugs are the grayish blue Mattlach ware, having on them parodies of some typical German sentiment or poem. The Austrian ware is much more delicate and beautiful, but somehow lacks the jollity of the sub- stantial German mugs. Some of these mugs have metal lids, while others are guiltless of any attempt at concealment of their contents. The legends and designs on these mugs are as various as can be im- agined. One straight specimen, whose han- die is enriched with a substantial German frauline’s figure, holds the legend “Trink Wasklar Ist.” his is relieved on either side by two ballet dancers, whose flamboy- ant petticoats give every evidence of violent terpsichorean efforts. A quaint Munich mug bears a sleek monk holding a scroll, with the coat-of-arms of Munich on it, while underneath is the speaking legend, to the effect that “He who has not sat in the Hofbrau with a full beer mug before him knows not what God has done for Bavaria over and above all the rest of the world.” The prices of these mugs vary from 50 cents to $10, according to quality, design or rarity. “What's in a name” applies with justice to a cake that is the antithesis of the angel cake. To make a devil’s cake—horribly suggestive name—have two eggs beaten separately to a stiff froth, two cupfuls of- brown sugar, one-half cupful butter, one- half cup sour milk, a teaspoonful soda, one-half cup of boiling coffee or water, half a cake of chocolate, and two and one- half cupfuls of flour. Cream the butter and sugar, add the well-beaten yolks, and mix thoroughly. Stir the soda into the coffee and this with the sour milk, and the choco- late grated, and add to the butter, sugar and yolks. Beat well again. Add the flour little by little. When nearly all in, add the flavoring, a half teaspoonful of vanilla and about two drops of rose, and fold in the beaten whites with the rest of the flour. Bake in round tins in a rather hot oven. To make the filling, take two cupfuls brown sugar, one-half cake grated chocolate, two- thirds cupful sweet milk, and butter the size of an egg. Boil this filling until it drops from the spoon stringy, and as you remove from the fire stir in one teaspoonful blended vanilla and rose. Spread between the layers of the cake; ice the top with a plain chocolate icing. Among the excellent recipés vouchsafed by Felix Deliee, the veteran chef, is one for roast duck a la Rouennaise. “Select,” he says. “two large, fleshy, but not fishy, spring ducks (in Rouen they do not bleed ducks, but kill them by simply thrusting « pin through the brain, so as to keep the blood in the flesh; this accounts, in a great measure, for the universally conceded su- periority of Rouen ducks), singe, draw cerefully, save the hearts and livers, pare off the . and chop them fine with salt, Pepper, a little of ground allspice, an ounce of butter. a tablespoonful of chopped shal- lot. the same of parseley, two tablespoon- fuls of fresh crumbs, and mingle well. Truss and put this stuffing into the ducks, fasten both ends, 2nd roast rare before a brisk fire or in the oven for twenty-five or thirt minutes. Untruss, and put them on a ve hot dish. Add a little good broth to the drippings, strain over the ducks, and serve. Aromatic vinegar for sprinkling in apart- ments during the prevalence of fevers or any contagious complaint can be made as fcllows: Take common vinegar, any quan- tity desired, and stir into it enough pow- Gered chalk to neutralize the acidity. When it stops foaming, and the chalk is pre- cipitated, draw off the-liquid and dry the white powder by the fire or in the sun. Wher perfectly dry, put into a stone ves- sel and pour upon it sulphuric acid until the white fumes stop ascending. A new method for preserving cut flowers ecmes from Japaa. A missionary from there says she has frequently kept chrys- anthemums fresh for six weeks by charring the end of the stem with a splint of lighted wood—not a match, however, as the sul- phur would be injurious to the flower— and then keeping the water in which the blossom stands frequently changed. The Japanese explain the philosophy of this by soying that the charring process draws the water into the flower. Prof. W. O. Atwater, in a recent talk be- fore the New York Household Economic Association, declared that, public opinion to the contrary, he saw no reason why ccrned beef should be less nutritious than fresh beef. “As a matter of fact, chemi- cally,” he said, “the salt in the beef mere- ly replaces the water; and although there is a certain amount of blood lost in putting the meat on to boll in cold water, there is not enough to change its nutrient value materially. One of the good old-fashioned remedics for chapped hands—just as efficacious to- day as in the days of our grandmothers— is Indian meal. One bowl of the fine meal kept on the washstand and another by the kitchen sink to rub the hands in when taken out of the water, and before being thoroughly dried, will keep the hands soft and white. st for the carving knife and fork t of every carver's equip- ment. They may be procured now of pres ed glass for 25 cents. In removing the meat course from the table the “rest” Should go also. A flat oyster shell in the tea kettle will prevent the crust forming on the side of the kettle. The oyster shell attracts the limy particles to its > London's Statue of Bondicea. From the London Times. It will be remembered that for some time past there has been a question what to do with the late Mr. Thomas Thornycroft’s colossal statue of “Queen Boadicea in Her v Chariot,” whtch the sculptor’s son. the well-known engineer, offered to give to the London county council. The casting has been successfully carried out at a cost rot of £6,000, as was at first supposed, but of one-third of the sum. The question is now narrowed down to that of the site. ‘he county council has allowed the plaster model to be placed as an experiment in a very conspictous position, at the point where Westminster bridge joins the Victo- ria embankment; and there Boadicea now stands in her chariot, with her prancing horses in the act, it would seem, of charg- ing the house of commons. We confess we have ovr doubts as to whether the statue ought to remain there, if only on account of the lopsided effect’ which its presence lends to the approach to the bridge. A more important question is whether the statue is artistically worthy of such a very distinguisked position. It has very consid- erable merits; it is ambitious, and the horses have energy and “go,” but it can- not be denied that the whole conception of the queen and her two attendants is ex- tremely conventional, and that the model- ing leaves much to be desired. aS Royalty Danced in Ballet. From the Chicago Times-Herald. Many of the members of the English royal family are known to take a keen In- terest in the drama, some of them even de- lighting to take part in theatrical perform- ances. As far as is known, however, they have never induiged !n ballet dancing on their own account. It was different, how- ever, in the days of Henry VIII, for that jovial monarch of the many wives actually encouraged his daughter, the Princess Mary, to appear before the court as the principal dancer in several ballets and pan- tomimes. When the princess first appeared in one of these ballets she wore a _biack crape mask, in the character of an Ethio- pian princess, but she soom became em- boldened, and freely took her part as a dancer in the court balls and pageants. Princess Mary appeared before the French ambassadors at Greenwich palace in the spring of 1527, with five of her ladies in waitingy disguised in Icelandic dresses, and the contemporary chronicles inform us that, with six lords in the costume of the same country, she “danced iustily about the hall.” At another banquet and masque, be- fore the same ambassadors, the Princess Mary issued from a cave with her seven women, all appareled after the Roman rise in rich cloth of gold and crimson FOR SPRING BRIDES Dainty Novelties That Make Up a Handsome Trousseau. ee GOWNS FOR DAY AND EVENING WEAR Women’s Styles Are, as a Rule, Designed by Men. ——————EE 2 AND WOOLEN GOODS = SILKS Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. (Copyright, 1898, by Bacheller Syndicate.) NEW YORK, February 18, 1898. HE LITTLE DRESS- | maker and the en- gaged girl made a tour of the shops yesterday. Both were happy; they were shopping for the. trousseau. The little © dressmaker took, the engaged girl from: counter to counter and showed her: “woven air” and “woven wind,” deli- cate and, transparent summer tissues, more filmy than any mus- lin. They looked at “microbe” nets with fine, irregular meshes, ahd at" striped and Plaided silks patterned like “go-bang” beards and combining reds, greens, blues and yellows so vivaciously that nothing short of a breakfast food advertisement could countenance their ‘colors. The little dressmaker caused the en- gaged girl to notice how soft and pliable are the spring wool goods for easy drap- ing, and how popular is the old-fashioned tarlatan. They pulled over stuffs for day wear and evening wear till the counters ran pink in twenty shades and forty ma- terlals and dripped with Roman and Rus- siap reds and cranberry jelly color. The Uttle dressmaker tiptoed her way to cer- tain rcoms'where new French models were to be peeped at, and let the engaged girl see how long the shoulder seam is now to be cut, so that the modern athlete and Amazon may give her muscles the lie with an aesthete’s sioping shoulders. They in- spected sleeves severely tight and bare of ornament, and stood before skirts planned to give a slim, picket fence result, by means of trailing draperies, closely fitted. A Bewildering Arra: They looked at the revived Yak laces, at the huge picture buttons that come with the Louis styles and at hundreds of other things it would take a page of type to mention; then the little dressmaker cried out in her enthusias: “To think that I used to be ttle ‘Fetch- and-Carry’ in a black jersey and a white apron watching you measured and now 1 myself ami going to make you all these bea-u-u-tiful gowns!” So they sat down at a round table in a restaurant to consider samples, and the little dressmaker sketched and added fig- ures and rubbed out and made more sketches on the corners of the bill of fare. “I don’t believe you can do better,” she said, with brows knit and pencil potsed, | “than to have your traveling dress of this new royal blue camel's hair. A!l my cus- tomers say thelr husbands hke blue better than any other color.” he engaged girl blushed and dimpled. d have quite a simple French tailor gown, if I were you, with a smart little open jacket effect, so as to vary the toilet easily by a variety of blouses. Then, of course, you want a skirt that won't go out of fashion quickly. Nobody can cut one in trese lightning change days; but the drop skirt with full length overskirt will last as long as anything, and, probably, cut over. Would you have black braid trimming or black and metal? You'll want a small ‘Merquise’ hat te correspond; I'd have very pale La France roses on it, with a large bleck bird.” No Birds for Her. “Nog; no bird;” the engaged girl shook her head, blushingly. “Dick=I mean Mr. Spring Bridegroom—has made me promise not to wear birds; he says fur, feathers and beads remind him of Lo, the poor In- dian.” “No fur! No beads!” ‘The ‘Iittle dress- maker, aghast, stopped ‘ciphering. “Men who object to women’s clothes ought to understand that men makg tha fashions.” The engaged girl had a, sgrap of fine white cloth, and was holding,apple green silk and Mandarin yellowjagaigst it alter- nately. Ey 3 “Oh,” she said, absently; ‘you mean the great men dressmakers, 3 0,” answered the little dressmaker; “I mean-the apple green goes detter, don’t you think? I mean small.men dressmak- ers, poor men dressmakers, with no more money than I have to carry/out their ideas. Do you know, it’s the rarest thing for a fashion to be invented by ja woman?” “But,” objected the engaged girl, pucker- ing a bit of black silk and,layipg it beside the white and apple green,,/“I thought that actresses—" soni B Thinking Out Novelties. “Not a bit of it,” said the ‘Tittle. dress- maker. “M2n in Paris whom nobody ever hears of spend their slack time of the year thirking out novelties. They take their fashions to the great houses, the most striking ones are bought—for a f2w francs often and a ‘merci, monsieur,’ for these small men dressmakers live from hand to mouth—and there you have a style. Models of these modzis are sent to America; wo- men dressmakers copy and adapt; other wemen like, dislike, wear. Probably every novelty we have looked at this mforning was a man's fashion.” any inventive talent it ovght to be a splen- did field. If it weren't for Boy, I'd—I think myself you'd better settle on the string color.” “I think so, too,” said the engaged girl, brightening. For Nice Wear. “Now, as this dress is for really nice wear, I would have either the delicate gray cloth or the white or the putty color. ‘The white? Very w2ll. You are all enough to stend some trimming on your skirt. 1 don’t recommend trimmed skirts to all my cus- tomers, even if everybody is wearing them. Suppose you have two fluffed-out ruchings of silk; set them in a dzep point in front and behind, halt way down. Black would be the most effective. For the waist I weuld have narrow ruchings of black, or of green, if you prefer, to outline a square yoke of the whit> cloth. The rest of the bodice I would make of this apple green glace, covered with string colored lace ruf- fies. You want close white sleeves and a folded waistband of green silk fastening at the back under a paste buckle and hang- ing to the ground in chiffon-trimmed sash erds. It is a great mistake to have your sash too short or too wide. Long and rather narrow ones are the most becoming. As to quantities, with your skirt length—" “How can you r2member any measures “How do you remember where you left off in a book? I know all the measures of every customer 1 ever fitted. But for that other calling or reception dress you wanted, what do you say to this soft, powder biue chiffon? It’s not durable for daylight wear, but trousseaux aren't expected to be inde- structible. The prettiest spring dresses in chiffon have cream-white lace appliques in flower patterus half way from the hem to the waist line. For the waist you want puffed yoke and sleeves and a huge pink tulle neck bow. You don’t Mke powder blue? Pinkish mauve, then, or mignonette with bow of cerise tulle. Spring Silks. “If you need one of the spring silks for theater wear or for daylight, take one of those fleur de velour novelties so sheeny that they look almost laminated with sil- ver, The coral and white is wonderfully pretty. You could have a fanciful collar with coral ornaments. Groups of puffs or shirrings, set at wide intervals, would trim the skirt handsomely. “Of Course, a tea gown. The prettiest thing you can have is a blouse and plain skirt in pink crepe de chine with darker belt of velvet; over this a lace yoke shaped like a short bolero, from which hahgs an outside princess dress of a gauzy transpar- ent tissue. Then for evening dresses—" But here the engaged girl sald she musn’t get too tired, because her evenings belong- ed to “Dick” more than to dresses. So the little dressmaker swept the samples into her shopping bag and took the girl home with her to try on things, bought on a pre- vious expedition. The dressmaker’s boy, aged three, looked up at the slim young figure in the beautiful half-finished bridal gown and said gravely: “You musn’t hurt it or mamma’ll whip you!” ELLEN OSBORN. — ee The First Woman Aeronaut. From the St. Louis Globe-Democrat.e ‘The first American woman aeronaut, Mrs. Lucretia B. Hubbell of Norwich, Conn., is still living, and has a thrilling story to tell of her adventure at Easton, Pa., forty- three years ago, witnessed by several thou- sand people. Mrs. Hubbell was then un- niarried, and a lecturer on phrenology. She decided on an aerial flight “for pleasure and expansion of the lungs,” to say noth- irg of a good advertisenent. The balloon Was a fine and large one of silk, and shot up so rapidly into the cold air that the aeronaut's hands were benumbed. While she was opening the bags of ballast with her teeth the balloon burst. By a strange chance the fragments formed a perfect parachute and drifted eleven miles further, landing with a hard bump in a New Jersey clover field. The daring young woman es- caped without a scratch and had an i mense audience at her lecture that night. eae Found at Last. From the New York Weekly. Housekeeper (to pleasant-faced girl at employment agency)—“Have you any ob- jection to the country? Girl (politely)—“‘None at all, madam.” Housekeeper —“I have quite a large family.” Girl—“The more the merrier.” Housekeeper—“‘Seven children, two of them quite young.” Girl—“I love little children.” Housekeeper—“It will be neeessary for you to bake bread, wash and get ail the meals. I attend to the pastry and chamber work myself.”” Girl—“I will also make the pastry and do the rest, if you will allow me.” Housekeeper—“I cannot give you more than three afternoons off.” Girl—‘Two will be sufficient; perhaps more than I will want, as my plan ts to give strict attention to my household duties, and thus get the work done up promptly, every day, so as to have plenty of cpportunities to rest between times.” Housekeeper—“I am delighted.’ Stranger (suddenly entering)—“Sorry to interrupt you, madam, but you are con- versing with one-of my patients, who has just escaped from the Hepelessly Incurable Lunatic Asylum.” — The Teaste. m the Baltimore Sun. No machine has yet taken the place of nature's teasle in finishing various grades of woolen cloths. In this country they are grown only in Onondaga county, in New York state, though a few have been raised in Oregon.’ Teasies require a soll of clay and lime in certain proportions so -hat their tips shall be sharper than steel. Such soil is found in Marcellus and Ska- neateles, where they have been a staple production for fifty years. Teasles are also grown in England and France. The American product is stiffer than the En- glish, softer than the French. When the foreign crop fails the American is drawn on. ‘This year the European crop is small, the Americar large—nearly 250,000,000. - See SESS Dotted Veil House. From the St. Louis Glcbe-Democrat. A doctor has moved into a new house, Me ‘The engag:d girl was comparing small pieces of lace critically. “It does seem aveer,” she admitted, without much show of interest.” Anybody would suppose, when women spend so much tim? on dress, they weuld originate their own fashions. There's so much talk now about money-meking oc+ cupations.” ~ “There are a few women designers,” the Mitle dressmaker concaded, women have one of the finest in Weshington.- He calls it the dotted veil house. When people seem surprised he explains. This physician is a specialist. He devotes himself to diseases of the eyes. The money to build the man- sion was accumulated from fees which were earned in the treatment of eyes in- jured by the wearing of dotted veils. Not all-of the profession are so frank as this Washington oculist. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN The Use of Lace is More General Now Than Ever. Effects That Rival the Delicacy of a Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, February 17, 1898. Lace is so large and serious a subject. and its use at present is so universal, that no one letter can give more than an out- line of what is most used. The most beautiful laces are very clever- ly imitated nowadays, and the modern wo- man of many wants generally prefers to keep for berthas and flounces her expen- sive laces, using for ordinary gowns the { very best of the machine-made article. Latest and prettlest of the novelties is imitation point, a really handsome article and only inexpensive when compared in price with real lace. It can be bought by the yard in various widths, and makes a most exquisite trimming. It is also fash- icred into berthas to go about the necks of evening gowns, and this shape can be bought ready to put on. It is most used, however, in medallions for trimming sleeves and bodices. For the tops of sleeves the medallions are elongated, while for the bodices they are the usual miniature shape. Nothing half so pretty as this imitaton point in whatever form it comes has been brought out this year. It bids fair to be most popular on spring and summer silks, but it is too delicate a lace to be applied to any but the finest and daintiest of cot- ton or linen fabri For neck and sleeves the laces called “lierre” are still most popular. There seems to be no diminution in the us> of lace for sleeves and neck, although now it is generally caught up in'some way, either ruffled or frilled. The laces sold under th> head of “ir- regular insertion” are most used for bodices, etc. In the flower patterns they are so made that they can be detached at th2 end of each flower, and thus applied in the medallion style as separate pieces. Both the irregular insertion and the lierre laces come in an endless variety of patterns and in whit>, cream, butter color or ecru. The imitation point can be had in white only. Use of Honiton. Honiton lace, or real Honiton braid, fash- foned in various beautiful patterns, has | been much used all winter, and is no less popular now among those who can afford handsome laces. A great deal of it was used on black chiffon for elaborat> neck arrangemerts. The latest use of It is on zouave jackets of black chiffon, elaborate- ly braided in beautiful patterns with cream | colored Honiton braid. The effect 1s beautiful. These jackets may be bought ready made, of course, and used to freshen any handsome black gown which has grown worn under the arms an on the bias seams. Another beautiful use for the Honiton braid is on chiffon flounces for evening gowns. The flounce is the full length which the skirt is intended to be, and is generally | $0 put on to the chiffon petticoats as, to | | form a long pointed or apron overskirt, showing the plain chiffon back of the skirt. A full, low-necked waist of chiffon, with bertha of Honiton lace completes a beauti- ful and effective gown, which is not ex- tremely expensive except for its perish- ableness. A chiffon flounce with Honiton applique can be bought for nine dollars and a bertha need not cost more, which is not very high for the whole trimming of an evening gown. But. unfortunately chiffon has so many qualities which render its life almost as fleeting as that of champagne that it is rather expensive in the long run. Much-more durable and serviceable and not more costly fs the beautiful renaiss- ance all-over lace which is so effective in th days of silk slips to be worn under every overdress. This renaissance lace | comes in such exquisite patterns and is so cobwebby in spite of its wearing qualitics that one can conjure up quite a litle dream of fairyland when looking at it. It is quite wide and not a great num- ber of yards are needed to make the pres- ent evening width skirt and the full, low- necked bodice. Gowns of Lace. Gowns of lace, net, grenadine, canvas or even transparent nun‘s veilings over silk picmise to be the fecture of the summer. So If you have cny lace over dresses pre- pare to use them now. Brussels net is not quite as high in favor as grenadine, but it is so much more serviceable. If you are wavering, therefcre, between a black gren- adine or a black Brussels net choose the latter. If you d» you will find your trim. mings made up, which is something of a help ir these busy days. Black Brussels net, with narrow frills of black lace, chif- fon or some stiffer material, may be bought by the yard. It also has between the rows of frilling tiny figures and pat- terns embroidered on the net. This frilled net Is much used for the back and front of bodices, using plain net for the yoke, sleeves and skirt of the gown. Spangled net for bodices is in great de- mand. This, of course, also means a taf- feta silk lining which shows. Very often the lining is of white silk or satin, which appears, marvelously tucked, In the yoke, sleeves and collar. Robe Effec: Every one is writing and talking about the new “robe” effects, as the skirts of lawn, etc., with insertions of Valenciennes and ruffles of embroidery, are called. As 2 matter of fact, they are only mild and mod- ified forms of trimmed organdie skirts Mcst of us rummaging among the gowns of our mother's girlhood, or later among our own christening robes, will come across skirts on which the insertion is far more They aré very pretty, how y skirts packed in dainty boxes, ard quite ready to wear except for the sim- ple matter of putting on a band. The all- over embroidery for waist and_ sleeves comes separately. Almost any industrious reedlewoman can fashion these skirts at home and mak: them look quite as finished | and dainty. The most effective and quite the pretties embroideries shown for spring and sum- | mer are the Irish point effects, which are almost like lace, they are so fine, yet are very durable. Swiss nainsook is as beauti- | ful as ever, and all these pretty summer trimmings combined make one quite look fcrward to the summer girl and her pretty gowns. MABEL BOYD. >— Twice as Quick. From Puek. Former Resident~“What did Prodigle do with the big fortune that was left him? Ran through it in a year, I suppose? Friend—“Oh, no! His wife prevented esident—“Good for her!” Friend—"Yes; she ran through it in six month: j tion | of piroghis, or patties, Co ok Free Seed cmce of 400 selected re- ceipts by practical housekeepers, for practical housekeepers, will be mailed to anyone on receipt of stamp and address, CLEVELAND BAKING POWDER CO., 83 Fulton Street, New York. WHERE WOMEN RULE. What Has Been Found in an Eastern Province. From the Springfield Republican. While studying social conditions in orie ental lends Dr. Alice B. Stockham was ad+ vised by Tolstoi to visit the Naiars on the Malabar coast of India, and witness a type of civilization unknown elsewhere among the inhabitants of earth. Here, according to a writer, the husband is a mere inci- Gent in the social organization. Woman's pewer is autocratic and absolute. She wins or divorces a husband’ at will, She frames and administers the laws by which he lives and through her is the descent of the prop- erty, which he may earn but not own. The rice field is his active arena, and, if industrious and frvgal—proving himself ca- pable of maintaining a family—some Neiar maid invites him to become her husband. The successful man of eligible years ts wooed and won as is the fortunate and accomplished maiden of our country. The impropriety of manifesting affection for a women before it is solicited ix thoroughly tilled into the mind of the Naiar man, nd, while the strife between natural te dencies and national custom may some- times approach the nature of an irrepressi- ble conflict, to yield is ruin and humilia- irreparable. The eligible bachelor must await an avowal of love and choice and suffer in silence if It be long withheld. The Naiars are of Brahmin origin and much above the average inhabitants of In- dia in intelligence and in the administra- tion of their native government. Better pative schools are found here than else- where in India, and a surprising degree of domestic contentment. There is a district in Russia the of which are said to be Women, and where for the greater part of the year the inhabitants are almost ex- clusively women. It comprises some fifteen square miles in the province of Smolensk. In the early spring all the able-bodied males emigrate in search of work to the large towns, and remain absent for nine months or more, leaving their wives and daugnters.to cultivate the fields and man- age lo affairs generally under the presi- dency of a mayoress. Before nightfall the women are said to assemble in a sort of club house and play cards till 1 or 2 o'clock in the morning. Moreover, against the re+ turn of the men folk they brew quantities of braga, or small beer, and cook numbers This Adamiess Eden is one of the most prosperous and best-conducted portions of the empire, and the czarina takes a strong interest in its welfare, Sallie Joy White in the Woman's Home Companion, Wear big aprons—regular pinafores that button in the back and have long s\ full bishop sleeves that will go on over any dress, and that are held around the wrists by clastic cord, that may be slipped out when the apron is laundered. This pina- fore is usually made of white ur some pretty print, light colored, because it looks fresher and is just as casy to launder as @ dark one. This cooking apron should be worn for no other purpose. You can see for yourself how much nicer it is 1o come to your work of preparing delicate dishes with an apron which you have not worn while sweeping, or doing any ocher work that would mear getting dusc particles in it, even with great care. With the apron is worn a pretty littie cap made from mus- lin or from a pocket handkerchief; this keeps the flying perticles of flour from set- tling in the hair, ar.d it also keeps the hair in place. Then pinned to one side is a stall hand towel, and to the other a holder on a long tape. You know how often the fingers need wiping while you aze doing even the simplest bit 9 y. If you have to step to the towel rack every time you take many unnecessary steps. Then you know what a habit unattached holders nave of getting muslaid, slipping out of sight just when they are needed, Sometunes you can’t stop to hunt them up, and then you make shift with anything, and perhaps burn your fingers. Well, if you have the towel and holder fasteaed to the belt of your apron you don’t have to cross the kitchen to use one, and the other can’t get away from you. Let me tell you something, girls: This dress is a very becomirg one, and you needn't be afraid to let any one see 2” the cooxing cap and apron. My word for it, any dish you may cook will be relished when you wear this cort of costume in ita preparation, jor in itseif it suggesis neate ness, daintiness and ell the rest that goes 10 make dishes tempting. and appetizing. oo ——— - She Married a Flower Vase. From the St. James’ Gazette. We often hear of queer marriages. But a camsel of Soochow, one Miss Hsu, a young jiady belonging to or of the aristocratic fumilies of the city, has evolved a "ew idea, She has married a red flower vase, this vase being made a substitute for the son of Lu Jen-hsiang, libationer or vice chan- ceNor of the imperial academy of ean? er optimus of the Hanlin Acad- any TCappeared that the son of the liba- tioner died last winter, a few days before his contemplated marriage with the young lady, and the latter vowed that she would never marry, but be an inmate of her be- trothed’s faraily, where she could observe her widowhood. Hence the marriage cere. mony in question. There is a suggestion to memorialize the throne for a granite erch to be built in Soochow to commem- orate the virtves of Miss Hsu. OLYMPUS U Pr TO DATE.