Evening Star Newspaper, December 4, 1897, Page 19

THE EVENING STAR, . SATURDAY, DECEMBER 4, 1897—26 PAGES. ! HOUSEHOLD HINTS Now is the Time to Boil and Bake for Christmas, “SOFT’ LIQUIDS FOR PUNCH BOWL Stuffed Spanish Peppers Are a Spicy Novelty. PEWTER PORRINGERS This is the week that, unless previously attended to, the spicy fragrance of the Christmas plum pudding and the Christmas fruit cake should fill the house as avant courier of delights to come. Not only are these viands much better made in advance and set aside to ripen, but by having every- thing possible relating to the Chrisimas work attended to before hand, the work for both housekeeper and servants is so much lighter upon the holiday. As the plum pud- ding is of English origin, a recipe for a traditional family pudding given by an En- glish housekeeper renowned for her good ccoking bears repetition: Take one pound of raisims, stone and soak in a wine glass of brandy. Wash and thoroughly dry one pound of currants. Ckep fine a pound of beef suet, removing ¢ ery trace of string, and mix 1 it fcur tablespoonfuls of flour. Cut in shavings two ounces citron, one ounce each canaied lemon and orange peel. Grate the nd and take the juice of one orange and one lemon, blanch and slice and weigh cut a-quarter of a pound of al- monus, grate cne nuimeg and weigh out one pound of sugar and one pound ot bread crumbs. Add one tea: enful sait, mix all these ingredients y thorough- ly together; then add eight eggs, well beaten, whites and yolks separately, he wineglas ch brandy and sherry, and enough milk or cream (nearly a quari) to moisten. Boil ten hours. ‘If it is to be cooked in a cioth, dip the cloth in boiling water, wring almost rub with butter and sprinkle lightly with flour. Spread the cloth in a large bowl, pour the mixture into it, and tle up carefully with a stout string, allowing ample room for the pudding to swell. Put the pudding in a kettle of boiling water and cook the re- quired time; not allowing it to stop boil- ing one minute. If preferred this amount ot mixture may be made into several small sign in black braid. The muff is of black Persian lamb. THE RUSSIAN BLOUSE One Reason Why It is So Popular In Green or Blue. % pudding. in which case five hou! would The same costume can be made most | be long enough to cook them. When ready effective if constructed of green cloth with | f° pen Seaty two hours toi “heat through. The mold shou!d not be opened after the first boiling, but left until time to If ¢ black braiding and black fur, or navy blue with wide black braid, edged by narrow ; serve. ired, have ready some This Season. | gold, or red soutache and black fur, or Pianched and split althonds and stick over a eae seek ay,| the outside of the pudding: put a sprig ot ero yee au oe mmedWitins dane aeH etOY 1 Hons iinilthie: (op oOGeIaniii ion aie ineee wide braid and narrow silver soutache F b y pe the pudding; Nght and cerry immedi ADAPTS ITSELF 10 THE FIGURE) ms: to the table. ‘The pudding imay be auce. A vanill: Pour one pint put in a van- Boil it and from the fire. With either hard or liquid evolved as follow of milk into a sauce! iia bean and si then remove the saucepan a the s of three ¢ Ss with two of flour ar id them to the Luce over a slow fire until allow it to boil. Whip the whites of three eggs to a stiff frotn with —— ee ly becoming. lent feature its form is not tco lod s observed in many which make the wearer look hapeless and as if clothed in h a string around the middle pout this blouse jacket e or too new Model of an Eton Jacket Designed for Outdoor Wear. other form of Cueeinodel Pe a 19 a aa one tabiespoonful of mix the froth - a es . >PING ist line ¢ bust; s wuce and In planning for FOR CALLING OR SHOPPING | anything, slichtly wargowen, eesti At As. it Relplani aud inzion t vente Tepest the back, which shows but very little full- » everything ready fore 1 ——_+ hess, while the front appe: to be gath- 1 1 currant: dita eldadggaiaiace A he eee ered only with a belt, without additional etc se a fe wa GAS droop or volum are m the ting FRANFORT-9} hile the Eton or zouave jacket has] work of putting together can be done eari Novemives | passed the meridian of its glory, some new | the next morning If charge is a step to progress, woman has decidedly the advantage over man in | owing the ved with favor. ndsome and useful suit of a he: In baking the Christmas cake, remember 5 Tes 2 Vy | that the secret suecess in making a black, matters of dress. Year after year, and | mixed woolen goods, with a golden-brown . delicious cake Hes not so much in season, she converts her | s all plaid, has a tight ingredients ure into whatever shape Dame Fashion | tailor-made skirt with pipin of green vel- h must & vet and small cut bronze buttons along the The plain tailor-made waist has a piled with heavy white and edged with a green velvet May decree, while the less fortunate man must be satisfied with a simple padding up of a drooping shoulder or the stuffing of a flat chest. Just now Fashion has issued the man- date that busts must be low, backs narrow, shoulders straight and hips large. The re- sult is the form of the new corset, which is extremely low, leaying the bust entirely unconfined, and giving the wearer much more fullness of figure and at the same time that freedom of motion which the Delsarte woman of today craves. The for the e range is requiring coal in the s| t with, in order that it may not ne ishing while the cake is In the ov nearly all fruit cake recipes will re= sult in a good cake if slowly baked, the following, which will make two good size < certain: Cream together three nps of sugar (brown is best), and on a half cups of butter; add half nutme; Piping. The high standing collar is also of cre: colored silk and lace and is surmounted a full ruche of cream mousseli The cream-colored led front with bronze buckle. For Outdoor Wear. For outéocr wear an Eton jacket of moss- green velvet accompanies this simple and elegant gown. The jacket reaches the waist line and is made double breasted with and ted s, one tablespoonful powdered cinne mon, spoonful of cloves and the same of allspice. Mix together half a cup of molasses and half a cup of sour cream and stir into it a level teaspoonful of s i Adc the b er and sug? EC el back Is very narrow, imparting to the | jarge reveres and six large cut bronze but- | Ad¢ i eaeans Stone ieee ure a slight and graceful sway, giving | tons. A braiding of green silk runs along|a winezlass of brandy and two cunfu the hips full play and making the waist | the seams and simulates the cuffs on the | sifted flour. Beat the whites of the cees appear unusually small. tight sleeves. A fe green velvet hat | suff, and add alternately with two more Naturally the outer garments follow suit | with green and brown plumes and cut|cups of flour. Have ready one pound or and adapt themselves to the fizure which | bronze buckle lends the finishing touch to | raisins, secded and cut in halves, one pouni the corset has helped to form, hence the | this gown, which is equally serviceable for nts, 1 and dried, a quarter Russian blouse or jacket, of which our 11- | calling, shopping cr home wear. of shredded citron, a cup of chopped lustration represents a model. The original r favorite adornment for outdoor and also a liitie chopped orange widaiidesigiadl audi udetige Mrs onthe de costumes is the contrasting | ard lemon pecl. Sprinkle thoroughly. with enild. cloth bands, cut blas with Perfectly even | two tablesnoo fals four and add to the ‘ie jacket is miade/ofiamoott, find tkack nd stitched on near the edge. The | cake mixtur ne the cake tins with clot! aed with plat! caret aac teamnea bodice front, cpaulets and skirt | buttered paper, and if the cake shows sign ign so treated with excellent with wide and narrow black braid, ir. a large carreaux design. The shoulder y, and the fullness is satin belt closing in large buckle of filigree gold is quite long and cut in slight serps - form, a shape eminently more graceful than the short tight basques, which mark so many new Russian blouse jackets and which bulge out in ungraceful | of baking too quickly, cover w! paper. put on th buttered tiger skirt is of blue cloth, with bias of white cloth, stitched along t ams of the front gore, a blue braid fancy trimming repning along the center of each band. The jacket of biue cloth is tight fitting at the back and hes a collar old_ custom: glish forbe ar by y One of the jolly by our here y bowl kept eve until New who are glad to emph vhich this custom typifie beq and thed whic jstmas from front with The b punch dd The loose open front disel blue braid. the -| who for con 3 ele | the tight pointed bodice of blue cloth unde clence sake prefer a temper- eta aber atin ec rdina ‘a atig its Taitsesy | ueathe which! alsolaiiows aniansectenrenits | ance. neverage: the followin concoctio: the shoulder, where it is decorated by | ¥eSt With the braid trimming. The slight | i8 recommended: Take the juice of thr. . c ght lower arm, | fulled shoulder has inserted white points | lemons and three cranges, ‘one pin and the blue felt is trimmed with blue ribbon, braid and Se ee (Lia: shredded from the core with ¢ one quart can of strawberries, one table spoonful Ceylon tea, one quart of boiling ; pour the water on the tea and let and fifteen minutes. Add to the fruit cr two cups of sugar, according to acidity, and let it stand half an hour. When the tea is cold add to the fruit and Sugar one quart Avollinaris water and a ) block of ice; leave the pulp of the orange as well as the shredded pineapple and berries in the punch. In serving, thin slices of lemon are placed in each glass. If canned pineapple is used, lessen the quantity of sugar. ‘orm colliar of cloth is lined wi ack Persian lamb, as is also the doub! breasted ing, which turns over the chest and shapes a larger revere of Persian a silver fork, This jacket, being black, can be worn in. dependently of the skirt, although the ac: companying skirt of the illustration is also of black cloth, decorated with the same de- 'RAUSS, Frankfurt the exact shape of the loaves turned out by the baker. They are open at both ends and slightly longer than t loaf. The ends HANDKERCHIEF LORE. A Laundry Secret and a Bit of Phi- lology. are then turned together with a twist as a0 the loaf 1s shoved into the bag straight ed Spanish peppers are among the From the Philadelphia Record. from the oven. This protects it from pol- appetizing of the late fall vegetables still in market. Formerly these peppers were only wu: for seasoning or pickle: Now they are highly esteemed when stuffed and bak served with a cream s course at a luncheon. Wash thoroughly first, ten or twelve large, green peppers, put in boiling water and’ parboil for’ fiv minutes, after which the skins may be re- moved by rubbing with a wet cloth. Cut off the stem ends and remove the seeds with a large spoon; make a stuffing of any kind of minced cold meat, well seasoned nd combined with an equal quantity of stale bread, moistened with cold water boiled rice ‘or cooked macaroni, Replace the stems; set the peppers in a deep earth- en dish or plate; pour in as much stock or gravy as the dish will hold, and bake ina moderate oven half an hour. Mushrooms, tomatoes, sausage or chesse may also be used in the stuffing, “This is the way we iron our clothes, so early on Tuesday morning!" so sing the children In ore of the old mimicking games handed down from one generation to an- | other. The ironing of handkerchiefs calls for no special knowledge, but a clever Jaundress knows one or two things of which she makes a specialty. Here is one’of them If you watch one of the buds or older velles gently using her handkerchief, per- chance to fleck away a particle of imper- ceptible dust from her face, you may note, if your eye is sensitive to color—first, that the scrap of lawn and lace is very becom- ing to a fair face; second, that the afore- said handkerchief isn't white at all. It would not be so becoming if it were white, and tnis is what mademoiselle knows, as well as you do. The color is not derived from being “spotted with strawberries,” as Was the case in that fateful handkerchief which Othello had from his mother. It is deliberately tinted during the laundrying. The lacndress who is eager to please has taken pains to “pinken”™ (if there be such a verb) the handkerchief just as she “blues” seme linens and cotton cloths that might turn yellow by untinted applications of scap and water, so she has imparted a rosy tirge to the mouchotr. The laundress has a little cake of car- mine paint, one of the water-color rectan- gies such as are sold in the cheap boxes of paints intended for children’s use. She col- ors the water perceptibly, for the handker- chief will not take up the full depth of rosi- nezs to which the preparatory bath is stained. Of course the handkerchief does wot look really pink, but it is “off the white” and very pretty, especially when held to a fair young face. coo —___ A Suggestion to Bakers. If the hygienic methods of handling bread which is employed by the bakers of Berlin were used in the United States we would have cleaner bread on our tables. It is no uncommon sight to see stacks of bread in bakeshops with no protection whatever from files and the dust which is always ir the alr, and of @ ce~’ inty adhewy Sots benre te haa the ae eek appear: havin” ‘ceen laid of Yefuse of different 4S" s while wart, The recent improve- Yhent in Berlin consists of using paper bags lution and from the ofttimes not too clean fingers of the servants. This new system has rapidly sprung into favor, as the name of the baker can be printed on the outside of the bag, which is a good advertisement, and does not interfere with its usefulness. ——+e+__ Novelty in Bridesmaids. From the Philadelphia Times. It was something of an innovation at a wedding lately to have the bridesmaids en- ter four by the right and four by the left door of the church. It was such a sur- prise that the wedding party should thus separate that the audience did not at first notice that two processions were simulta- neously making their way to the altar. The bride, on her father’s arm, entered by the middle aisle, when her attendants had accomplished about half the distance up the right and left aisles. She was preceded by two ushers and her maid of honor walk- ing alone, another pair of ushers closing the procession. As the bridesmaids reach- ed the chancel they formed a lane, through which the bride slowly passed, to be met at the altar steps by the groom. uce to form a meat baked. served with a cream or tomato sauce. thing | pertal her treasures a genuine tors. Failing} that, however, aluminum. These are used for bonbon salted almonds or the small sweet biscul! great-grandfather when a little boy, Iced coffee, and served in receptions or 5 o'clock teas. —_—-.—___ Same as Sfolen Dinmonds, From the Cincinnati Exquirer. danse “ ee, need 'em now,’ said the ex-actor. “No: jue to the theatrical profession?” in the papers.” ———+ee____. ‘Does my whistling disturb ia “Oh, hot in the least. I’m u: “You are a selfish old man, papa; you never tell me I want new het, or t hcuse.”—Yo ed, to serve with roast meats—or though if cheese is us. the peppers should be fried instead cc They may be served direct from the oven in the dish in which they were baked, or transferred to a hot dish and With/thé growing predilection for every- injng to revolutionary days, happy “is the Woman who numbers among pewter porringer, handed down from her New England ances- excellent copies can be /bought in silver, pewter or though in one nursery at least a small lad eats his simple supper of bread and milk in the same porringer used by his great. with whipped cream on top, sherbet glasses, is popular at “You scem-td have lost all your supersti- Are superstitions of particular “They are if you can get them published to hearing men whistle. I’m a collector for a millinery nkers Statesman. RICH AND ARTISTIC Some Handsome Gowns to Be Worn at Evening Parties, VELVET IS MORE POPULAR THAN EVER The Pouched Bodice Will Be Very Much in Evidence. IMPORTANCE OF THE SASIL ——— Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. (Copyright, 189 Bacheller Syndicate.) NEW YORK, December 1897. Te: FIRST DANCES of the season make it evident that evening gowns this winter will be cut with square necks almost without exception. The round or oval of a year or-two back is searcely heard from. Pointed or V necks keep up the struggle, is generally cut front and bac! concession to the claims of the A pretty variant on pre: effected by throwing a not too vo! uminous fichu of. meusseline fe sofe ruit with lace over the shoulders, crossing the ends and carrying them reand the waist to hid under the h ‘somewhere. The crossing but the V off, should be made low; enough to | a riangle of lace or of the bodice material above, 2s if a square decotlete were par- ually covered by the tlehu. This suggestion should be utilized for Slender figures only. Ancther possible variant was illustrated at a dinne > a few nights ago, when a bodice of turquoise blue gauze, embroi- dered with silver and cut very much off the shoulders, was worn with straps of turquoise velvei; thes arted from the lace frill that finished the square front and ran, like the sides: of a broken V, up to buffy bows tied above the arms and doing duty for sleeves. A narrow sash gave a repeat of color and material. ‘The usual modification of the straight front is brought about by pulling it down a bit in the middle with a bow, a flower or a jewel. Back and Front. The low-cut back is not in fashion. There have b winters when decollete was a euphe m as applied to the display of shoulder blades. ‘The pouched bodice is almost as dom- inant in the evening as by daylight. When it doe some form of the em- 1 wn cun be looked for more or less confidently The bolero is a sionally, is not re 3 of ort y gowns oc- ommended except r or decoration. usual, though n be construed f& for spe Sle ve ar ttes of lace or ribbon c supplying the deficiency. eline and chiffon are used in le quantiti is api jees not hold first p Tr bodice dec- d liberally, but it Sashes Arc sash is of supreme imporiance. It y end direcily front, behind or on the The use of the sa: hn short end is confined mostly to the empire gown. A very pretty result was obtained recently on a pale yellow silk frock by passing draped folds of white velvet about the waist, cros ing them in front and fastening them, in deftly tied bows, higher up upon the bosom. The uress 0 arranged gave a modified em- pire effeet fer a young and quite slender girl. Sash ends reaching the hem of the gown are quite usual; they may be of some width and elaborately ornamented. One of the newest sashes takes the form of a scarf knotted on the left sheulder, knotted aga at the left side of the waist and hanging to bout e level of the knee: A folded Lelt without 5 many figures Velvet in rich and delicate shades is used even more extensively for evening wear than in the daytime. Velvet skirts are cemmonly mest effective if ‘untrimmed_or edged simply with fur. When embroidery is used, or lace, the ornament must be rich enough to add to the material. Gray vel vet combined with violet chiffon and royal purple velvet, trimmed with white satin and ermine, are examples of costly toliets seen within the last week or two. -Wine- colored velvet threaded with pale yellow quite as successful; the bodice of this gown was crossed with old rose chiffon. Handsome MaterinIs. Brocades of great beauty rival the vel- vets. Plain brocade skirts and skirts with panels of lace or accordion pleating are equally desirable. Jeweled brocades are probably the ddstiiegt materials of the season. Sinton, Stately gowns; for evening receptions are cut with trains.1Danaing dresses are long- er than last season. § Many of the‘danting skirts, for the younger set parfticul@fly, are covered with ruffies to the waist. tAn odd fancy is for mousseline or ehiffom, accordion pleated, draped over silk and eaiged at the hem with fur. The best that ean be said for this notion is that the aecordion folds, which should be. very ‘fine, ‘hang well. Not much that“is féally new can be said about dancing SMppérs. The prettiest are made to order of sk or satin to match the evening gowh. Rosettes of lace, rib- bon or velvet até thé standard trimmings. Fewer buckles ate séen. Genuine novelties #n gloves are equally scarce, though the ease with which even the most rare~and delicate tint can be matched in-«any style has become some- thing to wonder over. A few women always follow the compli- cated and usually unbecoming English fashions in hair dressing, with thelr es- sentially improbable frizzes and “undula- tions;”” but in general people who are wige arrange the hair in the simplest method that is becoming. At a Cottillion. At a pretty cotillion danced a few .even- ings ago one of New York's fashion leaders wore a dress that serves as an excellent example of the ball gowm- as it is. worn. The design was a modification of the em- pire mode, carried out in white and gold. On the skirt panels of white accordion- Pleated mousseline de sole over yellow silk alternated with narrow panels of gold and white brocade; the glittering figures | all is on the white ground were brought out in @ Jewel-like brilliancy and | tight on w light powdering of minute spangles. The rather short-waisted bodice was of white silk, crossed on the bosom by gold and white ribbons, which edged the pointed corselet belt and fell in long ends from the right side. Above the crossing the ribbors ran over the shoulders througn handsome paste buckles. The beit was of spangled gold and white brocade, as was the deep V between the crossing bodice rib- bons. There were smali pointed epaulettes cf brocade on the shoulde overlappin the little wings of accordion-pleated mous- seline that apologized for the lack of sleev It ought to have been said before this point was reac! that the corsage was cut square low, but not exe: y ly decollete. A high-necked evening dress worn on the same occasion was exceptionally artis- design. The material was white in, showing through a veiling of ex- quisite lace, patterned with flowers. The slighty pouched bodice of chiffon and lace was finished at the neck with a band of old rose satin and a standing collar of lace; at the waist it was held in by a draped corselet belt of cld rose velvet, brocaced with There were long eeves of white silk worn with gold threads, back was a cleverly in of gold and white a fall of lace that bottom. Not so porate. Two other dre , less elaborate than these, claim a werd of attention. One was of turquo'se siik, with a skirt of dancing length, t with ruffles of silk and nce above The square-cut bodice was of silk, covered with white chiffon, with steel. The foamy mass lace and white chiffon that ed about the shoulders and was draped the pouched front was har is ies of tui lace alternating fer some distz the hem. 1 the sa light slee bove the elbo » other dre in colo} expanding re were to frills Bru ssels in front. The low Mes of the sam deep blue ribbo de each of lace pui bodice ith a “dip” as draped with punctured th folded belt of < OSBORN. —-e0— THE CARE OF PLANTS. To Keep Them in a Thriving Condi- tion Through the Winte ¢ Women’s Home Ce npanion, While plants are bedded or plunged in pots out of doors during the summer, they generally do well, provided the soil con- tains a fair amount of nourishment and a sufficient ainount of water is supplied. As socn, however, as the approach of cold weather necessitates removing them to the hovse, they ars at once subjected to mark- ed changes in conditions of the air, heat ara light. Probably one of the greatest difficulties with which we have to contend in keeping plants in the house ts that parching dry- ness of the atmosphere most noticeable in steam or furnace-heated houses. This con- dition may be overcome to a certain ex- tent by placing jars or pans of water on the radiators, or swinging them in the pipes just below the registers, thus furs aishing a constant supply of moisiure to the air by the evaporation of the water. Gas and dust are enemies to plants. The former must be prevented by proper regu- lation of the heating apparatus, and the latter by regular washing of the foliage. In spraying or sponging the foliage do not neglect the under sides of the leaves, for it is there that insects first make their ap- pearance, and regular sponging will pre- vent them from starting or spreadi The temperature is another matter for consideration. In the average living room the temperature should be from 68 to 70 degrees Fabreuhcit, w for the ma- jority of plants will do very well; but there are some. such as carnations, violets, prim- From t! roses, callas, ete., which will thrive better i a room where the temperature is from ight to ten degrces lower. At all times guard carefully against placing plants where they will be subject to cold drafts, which are injurious, and often produce mildew if the foliage is damp. Another important part in the cultivation of house plants is the watering, which in- fluences to a great extent success or fail- ure. To lay down specific rules for water- ing would be a difficult matter. ‘Too much water will rot the roots, sour the soil and stop the growth of the plant, and not cnough will starve it. The general ten- dency is to overwater. Supply water lib- erally when necessary, then withhold it entirely until the soil is in condition to be watered again. The soil in the pot should not be allowed to become dry like dust, but just so it will crumble nicely in the hand. Avoid by all means the ruinous practice of watering the plants dally, whether they need it or not. Plants in small pots usually dry out quickly, but this may be prevented by placing them on trays or saucers on which there is an inch or two of clean sand. As to the best location in the room for plants, place them where they will get the greatest amount of fresh air, light and sunshine, which is usually about the win- dows. Flowering plants should be given all the sunshine possible. Foliage plants do not require sunshine—that is, it is not absolutely necessary—but do not consign them to a dark corner for that reason. ee Protecting the Birds. From Harper’. Bazar. At the congress of American ornitholo- gists it was decided that the solution of the bird problem lay in the education of the childref in the schools, in all the grades, from the kindergarten to the college, where the economic and aesthetic value of birds should form the subject of careful instruc- tion, ¢ The war against the aigrettes goes on but slowly, since in the west, as it is stated, the fashion of wearing them has increased in popularity. Although lovers of the bird have worked hard and faithfully for it, lit- tle progress has been made in rousing the public conscience. Thousands of leaflets have been printed and distributed, column after column has appeared in the papers, but still ignorance of the cruelty entailed upon the bird by the prevailing desire for its feathers 1s still pleaded among” tl Women reasoned with upon the subject. ‘The argument of others is that as the birds are not killed for their especial benefit, they can in no way ve accounted as responsible for the cruelty of catching and killing them. The society proposes to appoint one man, whose exclusive work it is to exploit the cruelties of the system. Bird day, by the way, has been included with Arbor day ‘in one or two states, and efforts are being made to secure its ob- another of the objects which the members of the congress have much at ar HANDSOME EVENING wraps | Suitable to Wear to the Theater or a Dance. Can Be Made Without Too Great a} Drain Upen the Parse— Winter Sty From Harper's Bazar, Some sort cf wrap, short or long, to wear tn the evening when going to the play or to some entertairment, ts a most neces- sary garment, but one that almost always costs considerable money. The regular op- era cloaks this season are so exceeding! elaborate and costly that they are quite b yond the reach of ordinary incomes. There are, however, some styles that can be made for a moderate amount of money which have a smart look, and answer the desired purpose of protecting the evening gown and being at the same time warm and light. These cloaks are not so voluminous as the regular opera cloaks, but are just as carefully fitted over the shoulders. They can be made of silk, satin, brocade or light cloth, and are trimmed with bands of fur The lining is, ed silk, with a large pat- are several different shapes. The SS material and is ated circular, which fronts wide enough to fold over; in- le ihe fronts extra pieces of the lining folde r to form muffs, and at the same t elp to hold the cloak together. Another style kas long capes over the arms, but no regular sleeves. A Medict collar, a high 1 fur around the neck, is the proper finish, and, if pessible, should be lined with fur. and velveteen make effective style 1s trimmed with bands of fur, and has a wide over-cape. The ad- vartage of a cloak made of velours, if a dark color, is that while it is handsome, it is not too conspicuous to wear in a street car or public conveyance in the evening, and thus often the cost of a carriage can be done away with—a most serious con- sideration, by the wey. Tan and gray cloth coats and cloaks, much after the design illustrated in velvet, have the same excel- lent quality. For theater wear short capes and cloaks are much more desirable than jackets ana couts, for they can so casily be taken off and put on. Very smart an] becoming are nany of the new styles, and quite elabor- ate enough in construction and material to do duty for evening wear over ball gowns. Black velours, satin or silk, embroidered in jet and trimmed with rufiles and quill- ing of lace and chiffon, are the favorite combinations. They are made short in the back, not reaching below the waist, and have long squere tabs in front. There 1s always a full high trimming about the néck, which gives a smart look, and the entire garment is well cut, and almost in- variably becoming, as it can be adapted to stout and slender figures equally well. —— +0--—__ The Styles in Boots and Shoes, From the St. James’ Gazette. There are some clever novelties in boots and shoes. A broad buckle is becoming to the foot, but hitherto has had this disad- vantage—that it does not admit of any fast- ening, the buckle betng strictly ornamental. Now, however, « couple of invisible but- tons have been introduced at the side,which keep the fronts firmly on the foot.’ Satin shoes have been found so perishable that those who study economy are using col- ored kid in preference; and they are sold in all the most delicate shades—the light- est green and the softest cerulean blue— the toes being entirely covered with beads, paillettes and tinsel all of the same shade. Those who prefer simple footgear have only a single buckle on the instep, but satin shoes of all shades are embroidered in the same way. Colored glacc kid is more subtile and softer to the foot than mo- rocco, and consequently is being used for the fashionable red shoes. For good, hard walking boots porpoise hide is found the best, especially for golfing, damp and mud having no effect on it. For town wear and bad weather French calf shoes and boots, with ‘extra thick soles, answer every pur- pose. Notwithstanding the advertisements and announcements which greet us on all sides, there is never anything very new in practical boots and shoes destined for hard wear, the variety simply lying in the amount of broguing and some slight dif- ference in toe caps. Very little has been done with these this year. Mrs. Rorer ‘the most famous cook in America” recommends and uses Cieveland’s Baking Powder ¢ exclusively. “Tam convinced Cleveland's is the purest baking powder made, and I have adopted it exclusively in my cooking schools and for daily household use.” dese S0poee Principal Philadelphia Cooking School. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN How to Dress Warmly, but Trinly and Slimly. A Golf Waistcont is a Recent Nov elty Outing FI u Written Exclusively for The Evening Star, Long-delayed winter has at last ppeared, and the woman of the present day, who laughs when she thinks of her grand- mother’s low-necked gowns and thin slipe pers in December, must array herself trims ly and slimly, yet so warmly that she will not have the blue look which is so very une becoming. If she is a wise woman all the dainty, feminine-looking lawn, cambric, dimity un-' dergarments, with lace and embroidery add- ing to their beauty, will be stowed tenderly” and carefully away, and in their place union undergarments should be adopted. There is still a strong prejudice, among. young women, especially, against these ex cellent garments, but fashion does not al- low us to look any less trim in winter than in summer, and common sense bids us at-! tain warmth, which is the keynote of health and comfort, without Dame Fashtony if she does not aid us. The garments now can be had in all ma+ terials, colors and shapes, so that nearly any one may be suited. All silk, silk and wool, or half cotton and half wo are the best materials. P wool is a vexation, In spite of all protestations on the part of those who make and sell “healtn” under= wear, it cannot be made so that it will not shrink, and shrink so as to make its wearer uncomfortable, and an expensive arment unwearable, in one season. There ts one exception, however, if dyed black it may be worn for ars without shrinking at all, indeed, It will be more liable to stretch. This has never been satisfactoruy ex- plained, but a long experience has proved the truth of it. If one goes out a great deal at night high-necked, long-sleeved flannels are a Menace to health as they have to be changed for something low-necked and short-sleeved. It is far better to wear low- necked, sleeveless garments, and depend upon a chamois jacket under one’s coat, or on one of the new haif-wool, half-cotton underwaists, which are so much worn un- der silk shirt waists. They come in black, gray and white, either long-sleeved or short, fit close’ and take up practically no room at all, yet are very warm. They, are ribbed, of course, as is almost every, undergarment nowadays, which is to be worn under a trim tailor-made gown or. coat. New Name for Old Fricnd. Speaking of these jackets brings to min@ another novelty in the way of Jackets which can only be had at one or two ex- clvsive shops, and costs much nearer $15 thon $10. It is a sleeveless Jacket, very heavy, knitted, looking for all the world like one of the old cardigan jackets which are now ccnsidered so hopelessly ugly. The new one, however, really cannot he called ugly. The favcrite shades are crim- sen or yellow, and the end and aim of the fe of this high-priced protection is to keep the fair golfer warm when she dis- ards her coat on the field. “Golf waist- t” is the name given to this expensive pd bright garment. It woul@ do quite well to wear under a bicycle coat, ex- cept that a more sober shade would prefer= ably be employed by the cyclist. It goes almost without saying that the wermest undergarments will not suffice to prevent influenza and divers other unbe- ecming ailments unless hose and boots are in keeping. Here fashion has been kind enough to come to our aid, and has decreed that it is not good form for a woman to walk in thin-soled, narrow-toed beets. How long this sensible edict will last cannot be foretold, but while it is here make the most of it. her very heavy silk or cotton stockings, or a good weight merino must be worn in addition to the sensible boots. Merino cannot be worn by every one, and although more expen- sive than heavy cotton it does nct wear. as well. r Many petticoats ure out of the question urder a skirt which already fits closely about the hips, and black woolen or sili tights, black silk knickerbockers or even black silk bloomers are employed. Smart- est of all are the knickerbockers made of black china silk. They are lined with detachable white muslin “knickers,” but- tored on to them. Or the lining may be of carton flannel, which is, of course, still warmer. About the knees of these gar- ments is a strap and a buckle. The buckles may be jet or cut steel, but like other buckles they may be of ‘silver, gold an@ Jewels, if only one can afford it. Indeed, a pair of “knickerbocker” buckles is a hardsome Christmas gift, and one which will be appreciated by many women. Morcen is Popa’ A silk petticoat is the most expensive and mcst liked, but we cannot all afford them, and, strange to say, some women who can have rebelled against them for everyday wear, saying they wear oyt too quickly, So moreen is in high favor for everyday petticoats. It comes in the gayest plaids or the brightest changeable effects. Its first cost is not so much less than that of a silk petticoat, but it wears three times, as long. It is best to buy the stuff and then have it made up. There is an oil in the dye which makes moreen catch the dust and hold it more readily than silk. Therefore it should never be made with as many ruffles and flounces as one may use on a silk petticoat. Outing flannel has a place in the winter wardrobe of the up-to-date woman. It ia meade into short petticoats for house wear, and in pretty and inexpensive night gowns it brings an amount of comfort quite out of proportion with its moderate cost. It has been proved that the pale, pretty colors wash well, if a good quality be chosen at