Evening Star Newspaper, November 6, 1897, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, at Wty THE RUSSIAN BLOUSE | Described by the Leading Costumer in St. Petersburg. SUITED FOR ALMOST EVERY OCCASION A Practical Model for a Winter Street Gown. NEWMARKETS AND ULSTERS Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. ST. PETERSBURG, October 23, 1997. Fashion has borrowed from our pictur- esque natioral costume the most artistic and prictical part, and, under the name of Russian blouse, has instituted it as a prime favorite, which admits of the greatest va- riety in decoration and adapts itself to every use. We find it fer evening wear, as weil as for home outdoor costumes, and it is made of the softest gauze and richest silk or cloth. It is worn decollete, with just an apology for a sleeve, or with high col- lar, furbelowed, and with long sleeves. A shirt frent of white lace frills appears with some of the Russian waists when they are opened, turning back the velvet or satin facing; this reveals a fancy front when the Blouse is worn in the house. ‘The blouses have a full or plain back and a round, frilled or slashed basque piece. As they are wern to match, or contrast with the skirt, they become a very con- venient garment. Braiding is the most apprcpriate trim- ming, and is done in satin on some of the handsomest models. * me of the skirts worn with these blouses have several rows of braid, or satin Yeits an inch apart, set high at the back aca brought lew in front to form a sharp andyke in the center. Thuis gives a tall, slender effect to the figer2, and therefore particularly adapts itsef to the short woman and redeems the effect of the blouse, which, with ail its merits, has a tendency to make the figure appear shortwaisted and broad. A hand- seme belt of satin ribbon or metai is a fea- ture of many of the blou Others are worn wi folded belt of bias-cut satin er velvet; more especially those without a ba-que effect. A Street Gown. A most practical model for a winter street gown shows the combination of black and red, and is so simple, yet elegant, that it is worthy of imitation. The skirt is of black In, cut to fit the figure tightly over the . and flaring cut rather abruptly from the knee downward. A stiff interlining is used at the hem. The trimming consists of heavy, black soutache, narrow strips of Persian lamb attached to the satin m of the vandyke point spoken of reaching lew in front and extend- higher ever the hips at the bac With the skirt can be worn any fanc biouse or shirt waist; since for outd ear, it is entirely covered by a Rus n ouse of heavy red broadcloth lined with tin and interlined with thick canton flan- The fullness of the blouse is gathered waist into a belt, covered with sik soutache. There ts no basque. soutache and lamb’: wool also trim. and edges the frent cf the 5 blous: almost tight, wit che and lamb’s wool at the and the high storm collar—so s in is covered on outside with soutache and ts lined on inside with the b's wool. buckle, in shape of a gold eeves are the the PATHLETIC ¢ 4 Gig THE Lecture, nake with ruby eyes, closes the belt and nother fastens the collar instead of 2 =. The little Lerei, which forms the eadgear accompanying this costume, is composed of a large flat of red felt, trim- med with black soutache and lamb’s wool, and is bent to adjust itself gracefully to the head and is adorned with a bunch of coque feathers. A muff is also worn, made of red cloth and trimmed to match the rest of this elegant costume. A Russinn Model. Our illustration shows a promenade gown, Wiich closely adheres to the Russian model. It is made of gray Eudora cloth, which shares the great favor extended to emeoth, satin-finished effects. The plain skirt is tin lined and trim- med with narrow rows of blue fox. The Russian blouse cf gray Eudora here ex- tends into a long basque and is held at the vaist by a belt of white kid, embroidered in Russian design with delicately colored nd silver threads, and clos. front with an exquisite buckle of Russian filigree gold, set with turquoises and emeralds. The blouse opens with a large collar sf blue fox, which extends into narrow strips or both sides of the vest of white kid, em- broidered like the belt. The embroidered white kid standing collar also shows a narrow edging of the same fur and the tight sleeve surmounted only by the ruffled epaulette of the yoke collar of blue fox finishes at the wrist by a ruffle of ‘the same beautiful fur. The hat, one of the latest models, is a gray satin beaver trimmed with velvet and plumes. Winter Cloaks, While the shert Russian blouse and Eton jackets held their own for complete cos- tumes, inderendent ouiside jackets and garments are shown in such variety of forms and lengths that it is difficult to declare just what style of cloak will be the most favored during the coming sea- scn. The cpinion prevails among leading authorities that longer garments will be adopted this year. New™markets id ulsters, such as were worn years ago, figure among the newest creations, and the season is constantly bringing forth new ideas in long cloaks, not of any pariicular length or design, b in nearly all lergths from a twenty-eizht- inch jacket down. ‘Tight-fitting jackets are made of black velvet with a very short basque and trim- med lavishly with soutache, passementerie nd fur They are becomingly made to cicse along a bias line, reaching from the shoulder to the center of the front, and the sleeves are quite tight and ‘richly trim- med with soutache or passementerie over the slight fullness at the shoulder. (A. Izampann, St! Petersburg. e+ ___ The Queen's Tutor. From the London Graphic. The Munshi Hafiz Abdul Karim, C. 1. E,, who teaches the queen Hindustani, came to Windsor in 1887. He was then only twen- ty-three. He soon began giving lessons in Hindustani to the queen, who now not only speaks that language fluently, but can write it with more average correctness in the Persian character. Frogmore Coitage has been assigned to Hafiz Abdul Karim as a residence, and he has been joined there by his wife and his father. Abdul Karim is the second son of Khan Bahadur Dr. Hajee Mohammed Wazairaddin, first-class hespital assistant In the Indian medical de- partment. He was for some time in the service of the Nawab Jadia, as assistant Wakil to the West Malwa political agency at Agra. In 1886 he became an India gov. ernment clerk. In the following year he was appointed Munshi and Indian clerk to the queen, and in 1892 became Indian sec- retary to her majesty. NEAR MosT Tatweo seo HOUSEHOLD HINTS How to Cook a Beefsteak Just to a Turn. A MIXTURE FOR A YOUNG BABY Recipe for a Dainty and Inexpen- sive Dinner Dessert. e MARROWBONES FORINVALIDS sees Written for The Evening Star. While beefsteak appears upon the average American table more frequently than any other meat, the cook who cooks it to per- fection is a rara avis. To be at its best, a steak should be from one inch and a half to two Inches in thickness, and will require bout twelve minutes to cook. If a porter- house, cut off the lower portion, which is too tough to broil, but makes a welcome addition to a stew or the stockpot. Re- move a part of the fat, and score the re- maining fat in two or three places, being careful not to cut into the lean. If it is to be broiled over the coals, see to it that the fire is clear and bright; if over gas, have the ov2a heated at least five minutes before broiling. Have the gridiron in the oven that it may be perfectly heated, and wipe it over with a bit of suet. Arrange the steak cn it compactly, and if broiling by gas, put upon a small pan. This will econ- omize the drippings and prevent them tak- ing fire. Sear the steak quickly one side, then tura on the other. In broiling by gas, it will need but three turns; but if over coal, it should be turned every twenty sec- onds. To ascertain when the steak is done, press it with the back of a fork. As soon as It loses elasticity it is done. Have a little butter hot on a pie plate. Turn the steak on a hot platter, and season with salt, pepper and butter. A little finely chopped parsley makes a good garnish, while a mushroom or tomato dressing is esteemed an improvement by many. A mushroom dressing is made by slicing a few mush- rooms in thin crosswise slices, and cooking slowly in butter, with a little salt. This draws out the juices of the mushroom. ‘They must cook very slowly or they will harden. A milk mixture commended by a cele- brated physician for the first six months of an infant's life consists of cow's milk (mix- ed dairy), ten ounces; water (previously boiled), five ounces; millt sugar, six tea- spoonfuls (six drams); common salt, eight grains; lime water (add just before feed- ing), one ounce (two tablespoonfuls.) Al- though somewhat troublesome to prepare, this is the nearest imitation to mother’s milk, and babies are said to thrive remark- ably well on this diet. Mix the total amount for tweny-four hours every morn- ing. Have a number of bottles correspond- ing to the number of feedings required. Fill not quite full, and cork lightly with rubber stoppers. It is quite necessary to warm the mixture to blood heat before put- ting in bottles. Then have a vessel nearly filled with boiling water and stand bottie in it. Set aside, not on stove, and leave for ene-half hour. Then push corks in tightly, and put in the refrigerator until used. A delicate, inexpensive, but “tasty” pudding that will please the children, agree with the dyspeptic members of the household and curry favor with the men is made in this wise: Soak one-half cupful sago or tapioca in cold water to well cover until soft. Put in double boiler or one v sel set in a larger one containing hot wa- ter, and cook until clear. Sweeten to suit the taste; add the juice of one lemon, and the whites of two eggs, beaten to 2 stiff froth. Make a boiled custard of the yolks of the two eggs: one-half cupful sugar, one cupful water, and two level tablespoon- fuls flour. Cook until smooth and creamy and flavor with lemon or orange. Pour in individual dishes, putting the white part in one diagonal half, and the yellow cus- tard in the other. Set in ice box until time to serve. While “marrow bone have for some time appeared as a special course at “swell” dinners or luncheons, it may have been forgotten that they are especially nourishing for invalids or delicate people. ve the butcher cut the bone in piece about three inches long. Scrape clean, wipe with a damp cloth, cover the ends of the bones with a stiff dough made of flo1 and water to prevent the marrow escap- ing, and cook in just boiling water enough to cover for an hour. Toast a slice of bread, a delicate golden-brown; scrape the marrow out of the bone and spread upcn the toast, sprinkle lightly with salt, add a dash of peprika if desired and serve while very hot, on a pretty dish. Prepared ix this way, no one can blame “Taffy,” of the nursery tale, for stealing a marrow bone. One of the most appetizing supper or lunch dishes for this time of the year are creamed oysters. Wash carefully one quart of oysters and parboil in their own liquor until plump, and the edges just begin to ruffle. Melt meanwhile a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, add two tablespoon- fuls of flour, and cook together until creamy. Pour in gradually ene cupful of hot milk, stirring all the time; add salt and Pepper to taste, or a bit of allspices if a Philadelphian in taste, and pour the cream over the oysters. Ono of the best disinfectants for a sick rcom is a basin of water. Water is a great absorbent of noxious gases, and water left in the ewer of a sleeping room over night is unfit to drink. For the same reason, any water left standing over night in the kitchen should be thrown out, and the tea kettle replenished from ‘water freshly drawn. If city water is used, allow the faucets to run for some time before using. Hot lard can be tested to see if it is at the rignt heat for frying by putting in a small piece of bread. If it browns on both sides while you count forty it is at the right temperature for cooked foods, like croquettes, fish balls and the like. If it allows the counting of sixty, its tempera- ture will be right for uncooked foods. Among the pretty picces of Belleek ware now especially popular are the cracker and cheese sets In pale yellow. Filled with golden cheese and crispy crackers, they are a delight to the eye, as well as an in- centive to the palate. Among the new cooking utensils, silver- plated copper seems facile princeps. It is easily kept bright, is not heavy, and seems in every way suited to the requirements of dainty kitchen work. Ameng the sensible novelties in house- furnishing are felt brooms for polished floors. e+ Latest in Hairpins. From Marper’s Bazar. One of the girls who has just unpacked her well-filled trunks from Paris has dis- closed to view the loveliest hair pins im- aginable. They are novelties here, and fill a long-felt want. What girl likes to have short hairs straggling about her yneck? When they curl naturally that is a differ- ent thing. Now the latest tip from Paris is to wear pins which are so shaped as to gather up and keep in place all wayward hairs at the back of the head. These pins come in different designs, and those we have just seen are of both the expensive and inexpensive kind. One wai @ plain gold band with a lovely little dia- mond daisy in the center, which looked so Pretty nestling in the hair. Another was a plain tortoise-shell band for morning wear, and still another was a wreath of pearls and turquoise. This girl who has brought over all these pretty things says that many of the French women wear two pins of this sort—one at the back of the hair, and one on top to keep the Pompadour puff, so much the fashion just now, in place. These ake are made on a flat band, with a clasp ine a safety pin. If any one of the girls shculd have a pretty bar pin, it would not be either an expensive or difficult matter to have it made into one of these hair pins, which are now so mucii the rage. ————— +e+-__.___ * Mrs. De Fashion (at a children’s party)— “Marie!” Nurse Girl—“Yes, ma’am.” 4 Mrs. De Fashion—“It’s time for us to go home. Which of these ‘Tid Bits. SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 1897-24 PAGES. 15 AT A HOUSE PARTY Fine Place to Pick Up Hints on Fashions, SERVING COFFEE A LA GRECQUE —_>—___. Gowns That Have Been Made for the Horse Show. LATEST RUSSIAN BLOUSE Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, November 4, 1897. ABITHA HAS JUST returned from a house party at Hempstead and Tabi- tha has become a disagreeable person to live with. The house party was fashionable in pro- portion to the late- ness of the season, and, instead of the advice of her elders, Tabitha shows herself puffed up with unseemly pride. She is conscious ‘to herself of know- ing everything; worse, she’ distributes her knowledge. One item to which I have been forced to listen relates to her name. Tabitha was christened Beatrice, with the second name, which she never recognized by so much as a middle initial, tucked in by way of compliment te an aunt from whom there might be money.! ‘But Beatrice T. has found out at Hempstead that old- fashioned names are the most new-fash- foned and desirable, and $0 she has shuf- fled off the Beatrice and insists that we struggle to call her Tabitha. She never tires of telling us that the smart set are building long, low, farm -house-like houses at Hempstead and ‘otherwere, and that enly old names sound right. in the old halis. Tabitha talks a blue streak about dresses and is instructing vs as to afternoon tea. She says that from now until Christmas the novelty will be to offer coffee a ia Grecque to callers instead of tea a la Russe or a l'Anglais. ‘fo serve this re- freshment as the society lights are prepar- ing tc handle it, now that they are geting back to town, Tabitha says that you pre- sent to each guest a little tray with a tiny cup of black coffee, a glass of water and some sweet confection of figs or oranges. The test of your social wisdom is the order of your tasting. Tabitha has saved us from any break by explaining that the sweets come first, then the coffee and that the water is to wind up with. Newly Acquired Knowledge. As to clothes, this hitherto discreet young person must have been poking about in other people’s closets, for she has told us what to do with the bustles that began to take up so much room in shop windows. Her recipe is simple; let them alone. The Hempstead way, she informs us with trri- tating superiority, is to have your dress- maker cover two-minute rolls of stiffen- ing with stuff to match your dress and fasten them where they will do the most good,-on the waistband. ‘Another piece of her newly acquired knowledge concerns the Russian blouse, which just at present smart people, like other people, have to wear. Tabitha says that the smartest people wear it, as the Russian mouiiks wear it; their blouse is the blouse as it was in the beginning, be- fore it was ldunched on its much copied career. Tabitha is getting a blouse of which she approves ready for the horse show, and it appears to me that this Ata- vistic blouse of hers, which boasts that it reverts to its forefathers, differs from other blouses, chiefly in one most unbe- coming particular—the bodice has long skirts that stop at the level of the knee. An overdress or wrap of this three-quar- ters length sults scarcely anybody. But in questions of smartness this is a minor consideration. The Genuine Blouse. Tabitha’s “true form’ of the Russian blouse is being clothed with blue cloth and fastens on the left side with a band of Russian trimming in rose-red and gold; parallel with this galen runs a line of sable fur. Fur and galon start at the neck and run down to the knees. The hodice pouches a little In front and has a narrow belt of galon. The bodice skirts are rather scant, as is the dress skirt under them. The adress skirt is edged with galon and fur, Tabitha looks well in her “true form,” but she would look well in anything. ‘Tabitha cemmeids black velvet new- market coats that reach the heels. They were fashionable in 1880 and Tabitha con- fesses that the lapse of seventeen years has not made them less akkward and try- ing. The newinarket is well to the front among models, but phere ire others, for- tunately. eens To Tig:a Boa. The subject on which this valuable girl listening heedfully to j spends most eloquence is that of sashes and scarfs. The proper way to tie a bow has become, It seems, of even graver im- portance than formerly. Some bows as- sume to themselves so much consequence that they monopolize the front of a bedice One dress that appeared at a st Stately afternoon tea function has been described to me several times. It was made, Tabitha reiterates, of a rich fawn oth, with the able assistance of a dull rose miroir velvet, which, covered with black silk applique lace, constituted the luwer part cof the bodice and the sleeve: A short bolero comprised the rest of thi bodice; this was trimmed round and round with pipings of green velvet alternating with frillings of black silk braid. A band of Persian lamb eGged the bolero, as well as its high, heart-cleft collar. The novelty of the costume was the scarf of dull rose silk, which tied at the throat in a flaring bow with sailor ends, was drawn down under a paste buckle across the bosom and was locsely tied with more ends at the waist line. This scarf was the bodice front and a most effective one. The skirt was trimmed to the knees with frillings of braid end velvet pipings. At the Horse Show. The only relief fortune promises me from Tabitha is the horse show. That will bring forward costumes newer than hers. A dress in process of making for this func- tion was shown to me yesterday. It was of a delicate silver-colored cloth, bordered with chinchilla at the hem. An applique of silver galon of equally delicate shading formed a series of scrdlls upon the skirt, ising to the waist in points. The bodice was 2 snug-fitting affair, covered with an applique like that on tke skirt and fastened with a skelgton Swiss belt in mauve rib- bon. A full pouched front of miroir velvet ding iike 4 Neapolitan violet was edged with sable, two little tails escaping under the belt upon the skirt. The neck was finished witn a tucked yoke of silver satin with small fur eyaulettes, lace and mauve ribbon bows. The sleeves had a different finish from 1 have before seen. They were laid in fine tucks from shoulder to wrist, tne tucks being grouped to form shallow V’s. Very Dainty. The hat accompanying this costume was a puff of silver gray velvet, trimmed with Neapolitan violets and white osprey. A very quite calling costume seen at an afterncon tea was trimmed with the strap- pings so prevalent everywhere.. It was a ceat and skirt dress, remarkable more for the perfection of its cut than for any orig- inality. The dark green coat bodice fitted like a glove; the skirts of it came below the hips. It was strapped up and down with black velvet, as were skirt and sleeves. The bcdice revers formed a broad ccllar of ermine. A smart cocked hat went with this dress, of green velvet, trimmed roses. with Tennysonian “purple and red” The Washington Girl. From the Chicago Times-Herald The Washington girl—all Washington women are girls until they grow old—is a compromise between the type of the north and the type of the south. She is of the woman womanly. She has peculiar deli- cateness of face and figure. The bosom full and the hips beautifully rounded, yet the form is slender. Hands and feet are small. The height is oftener under five feet fiv> than over it. The eyes are apt to be hazel or dark, and are always bright and teader. The eyebrows are somewhat heavy and strongly marked, and the lashes are long. The complexion is singularly cear. The face has great regularity of fea- ture, and the average of beauty is high. Washington and New Orleans are the only Anerican cities in which one may see the women walk with Spanish grace. On this account Connecticut avenue when Easter bonnets cluster is strangely pleasing. The Washington girl is apt tg know politics. She is thoroughly devoted to society. She dresses as well as the New York woman, ith more of southern lightness to her jothing. If we could have a show—as we have a horse show—in which women cou!d be competently judged point by point, I do not think that the Washington girl would cass so high as the New York woman or the Chicago woma: but I believe that mest men would prefer her. ——_+o+_____ Poe's “Bells.” From John Sartain’s Recollections. The famous poem of “The Bells” was first published in Sartain’s Magazine. I received three versions of the poem. The first copy was a conglomeration of jingling words constructed in eighteen meaningless lines. It ran as follows: “The bells hear the bells, The merry wedding bells, The little silver bells, How fairy-like a monody there swells From the silver-tinkling cells of the bells, ‘The bells, ah. the hells! ‘The heavy iron bells, Hear the tolling of Hear the knells; How horribl- a monody there floats From their throats! From thelr deep-toned throat How I shudder at the notes From the melancholy throats Of the bells, of the bells. I did not publish the above lines at first, for I do not believe, even to this day, that they possess any extraordinary merit. As might be expected, the author became in- censed, and. after an unsatisfactory expla- nation on my part as to why the poem was not published, wrote a second version, more elaborate and extensive than the original, which I likewise declined to publish. ix- planations and outbursts of dignation were again in order, though they were all forgotten upon my acceptan:e and promul- gation of a third version, none other than “The Bells” we know today. Ie bells; THE NEW From Life. ADDITION. ‘*rounded spoonful” does not go as others, with their “heaping spoonful,” but it lasts longer and is more economical. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN The Latest Edicts as to Details of the Toilet. Suede and Dressed Kid Gloves—The New Empire Veils—Utilizing Old Lace. Written for Toe Evening Star. The edict against the dressed kid glove for dress purposes neglected to state wheth- er we should be expected to wear white sede gloves when weeshad donned our best bib and tucker. We knew well enough that white suedes were perishable, and pincush- fory, but we weared we would be obliged to appear in them, nevertheless. Such ‘ not the case, fortunately. Suede we must wear with calling, reception or theater toilets, but if we still cling to white in spite of the many seasons gloves of this color have figured for “best,” it shall be white glace kid. White is not tabooed, therefore, though there are other pale shades which are pre- ferred—fawn, linen, pearl and dear old lemon, the shade heroines used to wear in novels of a decade ago. All of these shades | are preferred in dress kids, and if white is wanted, it should be a pure white, with white stitching, instead of the black stitch- ing we wore so long. Fawn, however, is considered dark erough to be worn in suede if one wishes to be very smart, and mole-colored suedes are most popular of all. Linen, the shade of which matches the name, comes in suede also, and there are suedes in shades to match or contrast with any brown or tan gown. White kid will continue to be smiled vpon by Dame Fashion as long as we wear lace or chiffon over our wrists and hands, and this is too becoming to be given up soon, For Street Wi For street and shopping dressed kids are very popular. They come in almost every color of the rainbow, and can be had to match any gown, be it ever so bright. Matching a gown, however, is not recom- mended, although often done. It is far bet- ter taste to have the gloves contrast with the gown, or have them to match the hat. Cften this amounts to the same thing in this day of a hat to wear with every gown, yet never a hat to match a gown. Contrasting stitching is liked on kid gicves, and black, stitched with red, white or lavender, is often seen, though far be it from to recommend it. Tan gloves with white stitching are in very good taste. The hew taas, by the way, are ve shade: Berea Walking gloves of dogskin are still much worn, and the demand for suedes has brought upon the market a very heavy suede which comes in castor shades, is very handsome, very durable very fashionable. rie ee? lany women who are sticklers for the filness of things wear glace kid gloves with @ satin gown, claiming that a suede glove oils the effect of the costume. This is a Nery reasonable theory, to say the least. The prospect, therefore, still remains that we shall wear dressed kids w: handsome gowns. aN For evening gowns the fancies 4 iz sin gloves vary but little. Suede in delicate shales ie Sull preferred, although black to match sScme part of the costume, a ribbon, a belt or @ slipper, may still be worn. g Expensive Vells. The new empire veils cost such a tidy Httle sum that only very extravagant wo- men, or those with exceptionally long purses, will own more than one, and if one alone Is to be selected It had best be black, though white is now worn all winter, and | white velis are always most becoming. | These veils are most airy and graceful. They are from two and a quarter to two and a half yards long, and are to hang smoothly, yet not close to the face, cross behind, and be caught up on the left shoulder with a jeweled pin of some sort. the border should come just to the chin. Short veils, just covering the nose, stopping in time to show that ercatiocanty: a short upper lip, are promised for the neat future, but diligent search among women Who pride themselves on wearing all up- to-date trifies, fails to reveal even one. If they are to have as pretty a border as the longer, graceful empire, they will be be- coming, though abbreviated. All veils, ine veed, are now made with a border. ‘The highest taste is shown by the narrowness of the border. It may be—and often is—an expensive bit of lace which borders a veil, but it must not be wide or showy. Heavy dots are not worn very much this season. Dots far apart, on a wide mesh, are seen on many of the new veils. The white washable veils still-remain high in favor, and bid fair to hold their own until show flies. Black veils, with tiny white lece borders, are very fetchi e and also expensive. Chiffon veils will not be as | much worn as they were during the sum- mer. They are not durable enough to en- dure the vicissitudes of winter's blasts. | Using Old Lace. The adaptability of old family lace to this year's requirements has been touched upon before this season, and another instance of its use was seen this week. A yoke and front had been bewllderingly constructed of ribbon and chiffon. It gave the impres- sion that it could be readjusted every time it was worn, by a change in the ornaments which pinned it over the shoulders, and which showed in the clusters of ribbon, Over the yoke was draped a superb picce of duchess lace, and the collar was simply a duchess lace barb wound about the neck twice and tied on the side. A variation of this would be a satin yoke, on which could be sewed one’s beautiful lace ‘ornaments, without cutting or injuring them in any way, while a high collar of satin could be finished with a barb, or with the ends of a lace tie of ancient date, but undoubted beauty and worth. A very handsome’ piece of heavy black lace was put to a most effective use on a Space, Light, Vent ering, Shades, Tr From the Phtladeiphia Rees In the foreign custom of Insering several hours over dinner is prac- ically unknown. It has been commented that we in America might profitably follow the example of our English cousins in mak- ing more of the dining room than is our usual custem. Almost everywhere in Europe this room is une of the largest and most imposing apartments in the house, and often the handsomest. The walls are usually wainscoted with firely-carved oak or other dark wood. In it hang the family portraits «unless, of course, the house boasts of a picture gal- lery) and the trovhies of the chase. The furniture is of the most massive kind, with great towering sideboards, broad tables und high-backed chairs. Most of these things have been handed down from goneration to generation, some of them, probabiy, ure as old as the family tree; und they end their usefuin not through old age, but as the result of some accident. Such magnificently made furni- ture is rarely to be found in Amer.ca, with the exceptions of some dearly prized relics ef colonial day: fiom, Wall Cov ie a Chairs. this countr: In sharp contrest to the sort of room just described is the badiy-lighted, badly- ventilated, subterranean riment of ¢ average “high stoop” city house, known as the besement dining room. How p in their effort to have an imposing “parlor floor” can endure the penalty thus 'm- posed js past comprehension. One is al- Ways stumbiing down those dark stairs, and tripping over tue bicycles kept in the lower hall; and how pleasant it is on a warm day, whey the windows are half cpen, to have your mail flung in through the ircn grating or listen to the gentle voice of the iceman demanding to know if you “want any more ice today.” It is impossible to give a dinner decently in such a box. Ii were far better to let the rather diminutive front parlor do double duty as reception room and drawing room, reserving the rear parlor (usually the largest room in the house) for the dining rcom, than to consign one’s guests—or cne’s own family—to those dreadful lower reg‘ons. To make the dining room an attractive place rather than a mere feeding box, it should be as large as possible—as large, if you are building a icuse, as you can afford to make it. It should be cheerful and airy, with a high ceiling. For its decoration a dark red—Indian red —as the predominant tone will be found as rich and pleasing as any color. The depth of the shade should, of course, be gov- erned by the amount of light in the apart- ment. A Japanese pressed paper in red and bronze is probably the richest and most effective wall hanging that can be obtained fcr a modest outlay. The dining table is the central and most important article of furniture. The round table ts in every way preferable to the oblong affair, which is, somehow, alwa: reminiscent of boarding houses tary barracks. It is more sociable, lends itself acmirably to decoration; while , be marie long and nar- A more it may, if desire row by the interpolation of leaves. artistic way of increasing its c ence ts to have a false top of large dimen- sions made to fit securely over it Arm chairs for every one at now in vogue. They certainly are a luxury, and do away with that te which so often comes to one to re arms upon the table. ——__+0+—____ RICH IN HISTORIC MEMORIES. Vestiges of the Occupation by Rom From the London Telegraph. No city in all broad England, with the single exception of its majestic capital, is so rich in historic memories as Bath, the “Queen of the West.” Few if any have a more striking nobility of aspect, or are more favored in their surroundings. The great English man of letters who com- pared it with his beloved Florence did no more than justice to the beauty of its situation among its embosoming hills; and he might have added in praise of its cll- mate as a winter home that its protecting heights of Lansdown and Bathwick give Passage to none of those icy blasts which sweep at times over the Tuscan city from the “wind-grieved Apennines.” Its archi- tecture, if not so light and graceful as that of the south, has a solid and stately character of its own; and the Arno itself flows rot more sweetly than the Avon through its peaceful pastures to the Severn sea. And, thanks, no doubt, to the at- traction of its healing waters rather than to its charm of site or antiquity of history, it has drawn to it more of human & ness and genius than any city of ancient or modern times. To recite the names of those who have paid, some of them a passing visit to Bath, but more of whom have made it their temporary abode, is almost to call the roll of Englishmen famous in arts and arms, renowned for learning and wisdom, eminent in piety and good works for generations past. Statesmen such as Pitt and Chatham, Burke and Sheridan; poets such as Byron and Wordsworth, Cowper, and Crabbe, and Goldsmith; novelists such as Fielding and Scott and Dickens, and that inimitable artist in literary miniature who drew her inspirations and her models from the very heart and life of the city, Jane Austen; Gainsborough and Lawrence among paint- ers; Wilberforce and Allen, the friend of Pope, among philanthropists; Parr and Porson among scholars; Nelson and Woite and Napier among naval and military heroes; Johnson and Gibson, and Southey and Landor among men of letters—this surely is a “‘visitors’ list” and a “‘direce tory of residents”—for the homes of those who dwelt there can be pointed out ir most cases to this day—of which any city might be proud. Yet it is far from being a com- plete enumeration of the famous men whom Bath has attracted, and in almost every instance enrolled among the train of her lifelong lovers. To allow a city with such a record of conquest to sink into neglect and decay would nave been little less than a national reproach. Fortunately, however, there is now no danger that it will be incurred. —— -*e<« -—_- Too Expensive tor the Canadians. From the Torosto (Ont.) Mouetary Times. green broadcloth gown. A red satin vest | Nurses in Canada, founded on a million- Lady Aberdecn’s well-meant but too-am- jous. proposal of a Victorian Order of dollar subscription, must be pronounced a definite failure, a fact which, of ali the people in CanaGa, her ladyship appears not to se: There has been, from the first, auch quiet criticism of the scheme, which has not found voice. The financial ques- tion formed the crucial stage of the plan, and at this point it broke down.