Evening Star Newspaper, September 25, 1897, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 189 es 7-24 PAGES. Costumer To the tmpersa! Family of Austria. SILVER GRAY SATIN. FOR STYLISH WOMEN A Dinner Gown Designed by Vienna’s Leading Costumer. CASHMERE RANKS FIRST ae ! Striking Contrasts Between Dress j Goods and Trimmings. ] NEW COLOR COMBINATIONS Special Correspomlence of The Evening Star. (Copyright, 1897, by S. M. Baldwin.) VIENNA, September 11, 1897. Fashion is lavish in her designs for trim- mings, while dress goods are corresponding- ly plain and somber for the purpose of set- ting off all elaborateness of garniture Among the many fabrics exhibited and employed by the leading costumers, cash- mere is well worthy of the prepondcrating favor which it continues to enjoy. as it serves well for alt seasons and occasions. I: comes in all fashionable shades, as greens, browns and blues, but the woman ef taste will prefer a dark tone, #3 navy blue or black, which she will lighten by gayer trimmings. She wil! follow the same rule when she chooses the cloths for her “tailor-made"—a gown which every woman should include in her wardrobe, on account of its great practicability and adaptation to all circumstances. Yet even} this desirable costume has lost its former | simplicity and appears richly trimmed and braided, which the woman of limited means will greet with approval, since it gives her the chance to make cver her last year’ gown in perfect accordance with the newest fashion, by narrowing the sleeves and re- ducing the width of the skirt to less than four yards and finally adding trimmings ad libitum. A rew idea ts followed by the | Stitchirg on of several rows of narrow braid (black or some shade corresponding with the goods) in diagonal lines and cross- wise, so as to form carreaux all over the skirt and body of the jacket. This trim- ming gives a plaid effect, and plaid effecis are very fashionable. Plaids are also repre- sented among the newest weaves of camel's hair, and will make up well for young ladies’ costumes, with blouse jacket of vel- vet. Broadcloths come with fancy borders at each selvedge, which will show richly as trimmings. Woolen brocades also appear among the latest productions. This bro- eading is generally executed in dark colors on black, preference being given to dif- ferent shades of dark blue, green and brown. For dressy wear, silk poplin and gauzes rival with cashmeres and Henrietta cloths. Silk desigrs show the pre-eminence of stripes and trailing vines with flowers and leaves in dainty natural shades. A Cloth Visiting Gown. A model of a cloth visiting gown shows the new color combination of lavender and The very 1arrow skirt fits fault- ssly, being very close-titting in form. It is made of lavender cloth, lined with silver gray satin, and is edged all around the kem by a “passepoile” of lavender velvet, which runs up along the edge of the clos- ing on the Jeft side of the front gore. ‘The plouse also closes on the sie in continua- tion of the closing line of the skirt, and is likew ished with a “passepoile” of lav- ender velvet. The approved full Russian pouch of the bicuse is gathercd into a belt of black velvet, studded with rhineston t in silver, and closing at the left side with a buckle of rhinestones and chased silver. The sleeves are quite tight and untrimmed. A novel garniture follows the closing cf the skirt and blouse, being two rows of velvet ribbon two inches wide, design, KL hich form odd interiwined i e at the hem of the re of this gown, how is the large collet, composed of silver gray net over a lining of silver gray satin, and entirely covered with an embroidery done in silver thread,silver beads,steel spangles and rhinestones, and edged with three flounces of silver gray gauze. This collet overlaps on the le oulder with a bow of black nd a rhinestone buckle. er, high around the neck end a wide-brimmed gray felt hat, trimmed with a full bow of lavender ribbon and a rhinestone buckle in frent, and a large, drooping, silver gray plume on each side, completes this cos- tume. Lace incrustation wil! be seen on many rich gowhs for dinner or evening wear. Like Molten Silver. We have endeavored to give our model the appearance of molten silver, and there- fore call it “argent It is made of light silver gray satin duch- esse of a heavy quality. The skirt is cut plain and narrow. lined throughout with mandarin yellow satin, a color which we admire in the heart of the nasturtiun. The inimitable richness of this gown lies in the exqu tations of white and black chan form vines run- ning as aa jong the front of the skirt, and two long points at the back. The gray satin fs cut away from un- der the lace, and so shows the yellow satin lining underneath with charming effect. The blouse bodice of gray satin follows the motifs of the skirt, being likewise lined with yellow satin. This bodice finishes over the bust and, shoulders with bias pipings like those which encircle the bottom of the skirt, and has double serpentine epaulettes, which are stiffened by satin-covered “passepoiles. The yokes and tight sleeves are of trans- parent black chantilly net, and are unlined. A rich embroidery of silver gray and black spansles and silver beads covers the net, and the wrist of the long sleeves is_fin- ished with a doubie flounce of black chan- tlly, The high standing collar and the belt are made of mandarin yellow velvet, a shade darker than the satin used for the lining. The color tones of this costume are gathered with extraordinary skill, and the most beautiful effects are obtained by the shades selected. FIVE YARDS IN LENGTH. The Train the Princess Ingeborg Must Carry About With He From London Sketch. One of the dresses in Princess Ingeborg of Denmark's trousseau which accom- plishes most in the matter of beauty is a yellowish-brewn velvet—tan color, really— with embroideries of turquoise and silver, bordered by narrow edgings of sable. An- px 5A. SIMONSON ¢q 933 Broadway, \Gi A 21st & 22d Sts., NEW YORK CITY. Largest and Most Reliable Human Hair Goods Emporium in America. Established since 1858. My stock in fine quality of HUMAN HAIR GOODS, the high-grade of workmanship, the im- fuense variety of stylish designs in various Cott- feres, cannot be equaled anywhere! The Norelties for the Season of 1807 atid "0S Is the MARIE ANTOINETTE COIFFURE, co Very becoming and stylish, and with the ald of the famous patented NEWPORT COIL, any lady, without amy trouble, will accomplish a perfect Cotttare. ILLUSIVE WIGS, of ws make, are the standard of perfection, as: to tine 2nd saperior workmanship. Our HAIR DRESSING PARLOR 1s a per- fect Bijou! Numerous artists and experts for hair coloring (im various sbades) are constantly in at- temlance. = An exquisite assortment of HAIR ORNA- MENTS, a specialty. . 21ST AND 22D 8T3. ether, in the national colering of blue and yellow, is most skilfully harmonized, the dull powder-blue miroir velvet of which it is made toning vell with a pouched bodice of soit amber mousseline, over which an embroidered bolero of the velvet is worn. Trains of immense length are worn at the Swedish court, and fashions may come or go, but the trailing drapery remains. Five «rds in length of material is by no means vnusuzl allowance to drag after on the floor, and the = en- surg complications of chairs and tables must piay quite a considerable part in excitements at the court. Princess Ingeborg’s bri train is the shortest in her trousseau, and that is twelve feet in length. Most of the evening gowns are feurteen feet from waist to the end of train. Cherry color in shades of varying brightness is or the list of winter colors, and one of the Danish princess’ most strik- ing gowns is a magnificent Lyons veivet in bright cerise, trimmed with heavy gold embrcideries. he train of this really re- gal gown ts fifteen feet long. But what a weight to carry! eee, For Slender W From Londoa Sketch, High gowns for evening wear arg being introduced by several of the best Parisian Gressmakers, a dictum that thin women should hail not less frcm the point of view of “becomingness” than that of practical comfort. Napoleor:’s industriously acquired knowledge of tle sex culminated in his de- cisively expressed opinion that thin wo- men should never wear low dresses, and the conqueror of beauty and broad acres certainly spcke well. Those long, crinkled, transparent sleeves which have already prevailed with success are now supple- mented with gatherings of tulle embrotd- ery, lace or mc usseline, brought from the decolletage to the neck, and, in all cases where a finely molded figure is regrettably roe the fashion is to be — ens for being pretty and prudent—in chilly weather particularly. ene HOUSEHOLD HINTS An Old-Time Virginia Recipe for Mak- ing Hot Rolls. WERE FAMOUS IN ANTE-BELLUM DAYS A Desirable Addition to the Win- ter’s Supply of Pickles. CORN BREAD FOR BREAKFAST Ann can neither read nor write; but ker bread and rolls are the ne plus ultra of the staff of life. So famous were her Icaves even ‘n the ante-bellum days—for Ann was a born and bred Virginia cook— that when there was a county fair, and all the housewives for miles around sent in their culinary triumphs, it was Ann who always went off with the first premium, and after this glory was driven in state about the fair grounds enthroned in a “kerridge,” with all her young pickaninnies clustered about her knees. Ann is growing old now; but her rolls puff and swell with immortal youth, while many a good Brook- lyn housekeeper waits upon her for in- structions in bread-making. For the de- licious rolls that grace the tea table every night, Ann sets the sponge in the morn- ing, according to the weather. If cool, 10:30 witnesses the inception of these crispy delights — varying from that hour until 11:30, according to the temperature. One or two potatoes previously boiled in “somé- thing bright, sc the water won't be black,” are mashed very fine and creamy and a compressed yeast cake dissolved in a little lukewarm water is added to the potato and potato water. To these ingredients further additions are made in the shape of salt and sugar “to taste” and a haif table- spoon of melted lard or butter. She then sifts into the breadpan about three quarts of the best new process flour, and making a hole in the center of this pours in the liquid mixture with the addition of about a pint and a half of milk and water. This is stirred with a spoon, adding more “wet- ting,” if necessary, until the dough is of the right consistency to work with the hand. At this stage it should be just s enough so it does not stick to the board. When it feels soft and velvety to the tou it is returned to the bread bowl, and ligh‘ly greased over with butter, lard or drippings, so that no crust will be formed. Now the pan is lightly covered and set one side, but never on the back of the range, as so many cooks do. This is a point th upon by Ann, who emphatically declares, “I never wraps mine up in flanncis an’ blankets like a baby; but sets it whar it is cool an’ comfortable. If de kitchen is too het, I sets it outdoor: Now the soft, elastic mass is allowed to rise until it blisters and cracks, but not until it puffs up and falls, for then the stfength is When this condition is reached, which usually by 3 o'clock, the dough is again worked into a round ball, and then cut into long strips about as large around as a roll- ing pin. These strips are next cut into pieces large encugh for a medium-sized biscuit—‘not too large,” says Ann, will be broke up and wasted”—and ca is again lightly greased over the top just a bit of melted butter. When this all accomplished and the round balls iaid i son the board, ‘st one cut off, gives it two or three quick rolls with the rolling pin on the greased side, turns it over so that the greased surface comes to the outside and folds over like a turnover, letting the edges come almost together. As they ris they naturally open a little, and if folded only half way over they are apt to open too far She then puts them in the drip- ping pans about an inch apart, covers them with a light cloth, and sets aside in a cool place to rise for about an hour, or u ised half their bulk. Lastly they are ked fifteen or twenty minutes in quite a ne. ‘or it ba kot oven, whence they emerge, brown, fra- grant, crusty outside and as tender inside asa maiden’s heart. For breakfast the same roils are as fresh as if newly baked, if put in the oven five 1B. minutes before serv: While the winter's supply of pickles is leing made ready, a cabbage pickie from Virginia will be found worth the trying. Take one peck of cabbage, cut each head in fi » lay in a Sar with salt be- and let it stard over airg drain, squecze from the liquor, ad put ia a kettle, alvcrnatir layers cf the e with the followin well Two ounces of tu- re. one ounce of see', two upful black one ounce tard, with and four onions choppe vinegar and boil fine. two hours, Cover after which ft is ready to pack in jars for win use. ter ing the wringer, the screw should ned, that the cylinders may not flattened, the cogs wiped dry, and ed over with a cloth wet in kero- this will clean them. If the a works hard, pour a little kerosene ‘and turn the inachine chine over the cog wh: several times, then wipe tke cogs with a clean cloth. After this put a few drops of machine oil on the cogs and work the wringer for a few moments. A new wrinkle to many housckeepers that apples make a delicious sweet pickl Cut the apples in halves, leaving on t stem, as well as the skin—or simply cor If preferred. Put two or three cloves in ezch half apple. Make a syrup, allowing three pounds of sugar and one pint of vin- egar to every six pounds of apples. Put the apples in and cook until you can pierce them with a straw. With cooler mornings, corn bread return: to grace the family board at the matutinal meal. A good rule calls for two eggs, one half cupful of sugar,one-half cup butter, one cupful sweet milk, five tablespoonfuls corn- meal, five tablespoonfuls wheat flour. onc- half teaspoon soda, one teaspoon cream tartar and a saltspoon of salt. Beat vigor- ously and bake in a rather hot oven. When shaking heavy rugs, hold from the sides, never from the ends. If possible, spread on clean grass or boards with th wrong side up; beat first to dislodge the dirt, then brush thoroughly and hang on the line to air, using judgment about leav- ing too long in the hot sun. This is the method employed by the Turks, who should be connoisseurs in the care of rugs, Pretty and effective lamp shades that can be readily changed when soiled are made from the little Japanese or Chinese umbrellas. These can be bought for a few cents at any of the Japanese stores. A round hole is cut in the center to fit the globe, and the whilom umbrella is tied into position with a piece of baby ribbon. In making any of the desserts where milk and gelatine are employed, it must be remembered that if the gelatine is nixed with the sugar before dissolving it in the milk, there ‘will be no danger of the milk curdling. In wiping china dishes, do not pile one upon another while still hot. Spread out to cool off, then pack. Piling together while warm is apt to make the glaze crack. os Raising Bison, From the Milwaukee News. é Albert and Charles Huber, living a few miles scuth of Durand, Wis., have a herd of cbout twenty-five full-blooded bison and some eighteen crossed bulls and heifers, Experiments were made early with crossed breeds, and it has now been found that the cross Is very successful, the half-breeds combining the docility of the domestic ani- mals with the endurance and large size ot the bison. They are also very fine fur pro- ducers, and grow to maturity in less time than domestic cattle. The flesh of crossed animals is very palatable, and the fur has, the good qualities of that of the bison, and is softer and more silky. The crossed bloods can stand far mcre exposure in winter than can the native cow. The Hubers believe they have a fortune in their herd if they can_continue its increase a few years longer. eS ae a RSS It matters little what it is that you want zywhether a situation or a servant—a “want” ad. in The Star will reach ‘he person who can fill your need. FASHIONS SEEN ON BROADWAY. WHIMS OF FASHION > New Styles That Seem to Blossom in a Single Day. NOW If IS THE SIDEFLARE HAT The Use of the Overskirt is on the Increase. —— SEPTEMBER ——— FOR A BRIDE * (Copyright, 1897, by Batcheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of TI v ar. NEW YORK, September 22, 1897 I: Is CURIOUS how suddenly a fash- ion takes the town. For weeks it is in the newspapers and the shop windoy then some bright af- ternoon between 3 nd 4 o'clock one woman, the first to experiment with +t, scuds nervously along Broadway. Within half an hour every woman in sight is parading the same idea as serenly and unconsciously as if she had been bora end brought up in the new collar or color or bonnet or belt which a few minutes earlicr was a dubious something offer: but not accented, talked abo By dinner time the novelty is an old stocy irom the Battery to Spuyten Duyvil and is spreading into the wilds of Brooklyn. This was the history of the side-flare kat. Up to a given day last week it was an experiment of the milliners, boomed in print, but of uncertain fortunes. When I left the house that given day I rubbed my eyes. I had gone to sleep on flat brims; I waked to a world in which everything was turned up on the left side. ‘They are of bril- liant colorings, these tilted autumn hats: seme ot felt and some of warm, dark straws. A strong green with red tones is a favorite shade; {t goes ‘by the name of maple leaf green. Deep crimson is almost as popular, and is combined with dove gray or with green. A vivid cornflower tue makes 2n emphatic note in every group of women, and when ft is not next neighbor to white poppies it is apt to be inaking friends with ivy leaves and berries. The hat that Is not adorned with a great “panache” of ostrich plumes six or seven in a bunch, makes up for the deticiency by serving us a nest for a paradise bird or harboring the biggest part of a great gray heron. Meadow grasses in feathery sprays and twisted into wreaths are having their own success among the novelties. Hats and Toques. ext to th side-flare, the approved shape fs that which has the brim split up sharp- ly at the back, and the cleft filled with flowers and ril Smart little toques are brought out in great numbers and sec to be driving bonnets‘ almost cut of the field. At a luncheon party yesterday a great “picttre” hat of autumn-leaf green straw was the most notable piece of head- gear. It was trimmed with a long scarf of black gauze, draped lightly in veil fash- ion, while sweeping over it from side to side were gray heron plumes. The brim of this hat was lined with pale pink chiffon and had a knot of pink roses with dark green foliage benind. : Among the models of a prominent im- porter is shown a hat of emerald green felt with a wide curving brim lined with black velvet. Dark crimson roses with foliage are fastened about the crown with loops of black velvet ribbon. At the side an antique paste buckle holds three or four long black ostrich feathers. In the same collection is a small toque of silver gray velvet arranged in front with loops and bows of cream color and oli rose; these are caught with an ornament of diamonds and turquoise in the middle, and are surmounted by a long, full ospray of pate.yellow paradise plumes. Under the brim toward the back a cluster of cherries with leaves falls upon the hair. With Sunburned Faces. I do not know that I have ever seen New York so sunburned. The women who are drifting heme from the country delight so much in their brown and red that they leave off veils to show their colors and to Prolong the life of these as much as pos- sible. Women who do not “tan” or who have taken care cf their complexions look pale and washed out by contrast. The new autumn gowns, with their gay tartans and their rich, warm dahlia and fawn tones, their Spanish browns and their deep cur- rant reds, go well with these brilliant com- plexions." Ru green, a deep Danish blue and the nt goods that show red, violet, green and gold are being made up in quan Skirts are their wearers de full or scant, much as ir Overskirts have in- creased in numbers and in their preten- sions. They are cut longer than in the spring, reaching nearly or quite to the bot- tom of the gown. Sometimes they are draped, semetimes left to han; quare and slashed. When employed, they carry most ef the trimming, the v t being fin- y of cases with a plain ‘ort Louis Quinze jackets are tight- the place of the are mad The st-liked fan. zeneral it may pected their e ished in a majo hem. $ ing fo ston and the bo- almost with belts Russian blouse y bodice, and of » more suce they are considerca. The one-sided arran ment, with the scam upon th: der, bids fair to last anothe ‘or Street Wear. A trim walking dress noticed on a crowd- ed corner this morning was of m: faced cloth, with a tur: three sets of tucks sei at e from the waist dow The ight-fitting, and the long sle silk matching the skirt in shade. Wing-like bretelles in “pleated mouss | soie run with a thread of gold v principal cecoration. The neckband and folded belt were of Kirt crossed wi inter bodice were of was green and gold brocade. A handsome silver blue gown was not | meny steps behind. Its material was a soft finished corded silk, a vier than taffeta, but not so glossy. 3 with a long overskirt edged with a 1 silver and black embroidery and to show on one side an accordion-pl underskirt. The bodice display puffs crossed from s: S narrow black velvet r At an out-of-dcer tea served at a Staten Island country house recentiy a quaint but successful dress was of a beautiful opal gray cloth of light weight and texture. Tne skirt was covered to waist with narrow ruffles. On one sid showed a broad lace panel. Pale pink cordicn-pleated mousseline de soie the bodice, which was partly hidden ur a short ruffled cape of the skirt material. A large gray felt hat was worn. It had a roiling brim and was trimmed with pink | roses and gray feathers. Some Dainty Gowns. There figured on the same occasion costume of fawn silk with plain skirt short sack ceat, made with bex plea’ front and behind. The square y Me collar and revers were covered with white satin embroidered with arabesques in gold. | ‘There were epaulcttes and little ruches i black gauze and a great abundance of trimmirgs. The fine Llack chip hat w trimmed with cherries and brown ribbor In the irousseau ef a September br: included cn afternoon gress of a decp cur- rant red cloth. The Skirt is plain, exc for a narra lar Cesign in black ¥ vet with w - The bodice is a novel zouave in black . cut out in a deep point in the back and forming a cross-over belt in front, the ends-o? which are carried round the waist ars form bows and long sash ends behind. This zouave is worn with a blouse of white silk muslin and long sleeves of the skirt material. A French tailor gown unpacked within a few days is of dari laurel green cloth, and is made with a belted basque trimmed with | rows of black braid. It opens over a front of cream lace. The skirt is adorned with alternating rows of traid and cream lace inserticn. ELLEN OSBORN. a nd TELEPHONES FOR FARMERS, The Great Advantage and Influence of Them in the Country. From the Chicago Chroni# In this age of cheap application of elec- trical sclence to human need one is not surprised at the rapid extension of tele- phonic communication in the smaller towns and even villages of the country. Nor can we really affect surprise when we learn that the boon of cheap telephone ex- changes Is in a fair way of being extended in the purely rural districts. We are al- ready informed that in central Kansas there are a number of ranches connected by telephone with one anozher, enabling the owners and their families to enjoy in- timate communication fer both social and business purposes. : The Kansas plan’ {s to’ utilize the little railroad station in’the yicinity of a farm- ing district as the “central” office and to connect the various, farm houses by cheap wiring, in many ¢: thg barb wire fences being used for this, purpose. There .is no insulation, the only,care,taken being to sec that there are nq)broken fences and to carry the wires across the roads by means of high poles, cqpnecting again on- the other side to the {ence wires. The only, real expense is the telephone instrument IMPERIAL BARR 2 REGENERATOR. No matter what the color or con- dition cf your HAIR — streaky, DLEACHED or GRAY-it can be made beaa- tifal, glossy and vatural by one application of Imperial. Hair Regenerator. It 4s clean, colorless, lasting, does not contain on stoon not ve TTintter, “Bathe do bot sere r carling Incompar- able for the IMCARDY on accouth of ity clenall: ese apd durability, in each house, the.cost of which is said to average $8. A plan somewhat similar to the one described has been experimented with on some of the larger Nebraska ranches, and we are informed that wher- ever tried the success is so marked as to guarantee a rapid extension of the system through the rural districts. There is no mention as yet of any action by the large telephone trusts in regard to patent it fringements by the farmers, and probabl such action, if taken, may be successfuliy resisted by one or more of the independent companies. Why should the average farmer or his family be cut off from intercourse with neighbors or adjoining municipalities? It is probably a question of time, when the farm- ers will have the benefit of free postal de- tivery, at least in the older settled neigh- |Lorhoods, and it is but a step along the |line of progress to telephoni> communica- tion at very slight expense to each rural subscriber. The saving of time and horse- flesh, to say nothing of the increased facil- ities for business transactions, resulting from the introduction of farm telephones, renders it extremely probable that when once proved successful they will be ex- tended as paying jnvestments. For the female members of the average rural household no words are too strong to picture the altered conditions of life that wili ensue from the introduction of the telephone. Isolation is pronounced by all sociologists the greatest bane of farming life and is probably responsible for more dwarfed womanhood than any other single cause. The telephone, for social reasons alone, will prove itself'a benefactor to rural communities by exchanging for monotony and isolation the benefits which are al- ready considered indispensable to urban dwellers. . ———~e-—_____- Water Hyacinths und Drafnage. From the New York Post. A new danger threatens from the preva- lence of the water hyacinth in Florida rivers. Many of the larger towns in the state havé their sewer outlets in the rivers, and the plants check the passage’ of the Sewage to the sea, giving rise to fears ‘that Imperial Chemical Mfg. 6., 202 Fifth’ave., N. ¥. In Washington, sold by: & * PALAIS ROYAL AYPLICATIONS MADE AT | MARLBOROUGH PARLORS, 1110 G ST N.W. “set-s4t-40 is = FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Late Styles in Coats and Capes for Winter Wear. The Sleeves Are Not So Dreadful After AN—Rolling Collars in Favor —Colers and Materials. Whitten Exclusively for The Evening Star. Between the natty Russian blouse, which usually has a skirt of the same materful to match, and the long box coat, at least it-ches long, Intermed'ate lengths are not countenanced by Dame Fashion. Now a box cout is a very smart ent and to almost every when she is standing or in motion, n shorter, a puttoned box o Yes mot graceful if one sat down w lecsening it. It became cumbrous at So now that from two to six inch been added to its length, more care becoming one: have than ever should be exercised in adjusting it if one does not remove it upon assuming any other than a standing position. The fitted back is the rule in these long ccats, and this is a relief after the threat- ered invasion of shape:ess sacks instead of ments which was foreshadowed by a tew of iast winter's styles. A fly-front and 0 buttons are the invariable rule in the est fashionable loose-fronted coais, al- though the shorter Russian blouse appears with buttons of all sorts and shapes us decorations, pS our fears were a what might have been, and now we that a leg-of-mutton, with room at U for a decoration on the inner 5 rather snug fit below the elbow, and a set- rg up above the shoulder instead of a droop away from it, is the worst we are <aled upon to endure, our spirits They are reaily good-looking slec there is no hint in them th obliged to submit to the tortur comimgness of a glove-fitting near future at least. Tan, black, dark blue and we shall be and unbe- » in th nd dark green the leadin, st the only, shades for | walking » For dri gayer shades e solid. Beautiful models in aark red, ccmbined with Persian lam other contrasting fur, are among importa tions for those “who ride in chaises.” itted to the Waist, A graceful departure from a box coat, and something of a cross between it and the Russian blouses, is the coat fitted to the waist line, with a girdle of braid or metal set on, and a piece of cloth set oa chinchilla or ubout the hips, like a scant ruffle. Models of this c: en in all the Paris- n advance importations, and at one time it really si 1 that there would be no other coa r. Of course a girdle pre- cludes the sity of ev one having the e lincs. Many of the handsomest of > coets have a pouch front hanging the line. roliing collars still continue in r winter coa ough some new ave plain, of cloth, with no tr a row of braid or a roll of fur—whatever happens to be the decor: profi rmems of any 4 y be worn, buck « Plain siik braid or elaborate frogs to beautiful and expensive fet straight, smooth, weli-fitted back to carry off the variou show nds one ail of the hats. collars and 5 jon with, cloth ané t it forms a large pari of the wraps railing or drivin; For these habiliments of winter me Ri s of velvet and r. On - > of rolling col rt of coat of royal pu ¥ iy or overhanging blouse . The c Wes lined with nd the whole effect was indes Brown v anothy not y, but of a contrastng shade, if possible, In Combination. A few Russian blouses have tight-fitting Vests of fur; one of black velvet, with a Vest of baby astrakhan, was quiet and ele- gant. Other combirations are cloth, ¢ crate!y trimmed with jet, both back * and front, and girdle of jet, with short skirt of | ue, piece of velvet, abs, somet and velvet’ vest. popular to be ignored, a though jackets are considered somew smarter, They are narrower than r, of silk, cloth or velvet, and wborately braided or trimme: and, like those of years given to collars of fur. There short capes made: mo: below the waist line, and are quiie warm and comfortabie-looking. While the elaboration of braid upon coats has brought bout a revival ef smooth cloths for their manufacture, capes are of more and more elaborate and rich mate- riats. nes cut in € not many of them come weil p driving co: of broadcloth, sometimes rough-faced cloth: with fur, and lined with fur, mentioned. These i nd if one ik in them in the street, no a tion would be attracted. Bat other models of | or trimmea carriage wraps are shown in very pale colors, gray, et trimmed with lace and perishable and summery materi although the wraps j selves are very warm. ‘The opera cloaks are marvels of beauty, d satins which would make a bride en- vious are used in their manufacture. White, pale blue and pink, trimmed with fur and lace, voluminous ‘and expensive, they suggest the coming of the winter cea_ son, with dinners and dances galore, and, above all, the house which gives them :heir name, where for a few nappy nights dur- ing the next six months the vexatious sub- ject of dress will be quite forgotten while we listen to the golden notes of the prina donnas. MABEL BOYD. ——— een If you want anything, try an ad. in The Star. If anybody kas what you wish, fou will get an answer. rise. | good | | | Young housewives may depend on Cleveland's baking powder. It does the work just right every time. --Thaveused Cleveland sbai powder over 25 years— never disappoints." Mrs. B. F THE VOLUNTEER STAT! In the revolutionary war, in IS1: | Creek and Semincle wars and in th | fict with Mexico, Tennessee earne | Tepution and sobriquet of the the volunteer state. In the revolution her pioneers left their fee d unprotected settlements | on the Holston, Watanga and Nolachucky | to pour themselves a torrent of death on the jinvaders of the Carolinas. | Mencement of the war of 18) re ition from the govern: 5 |messeeans volunteered; and this number j Was increased to nearly before its | cluse. Tennessee fought th ‘k war al- most unaided, and furnis who won the bloody fiel the of the for the American arms at Fort which | first ch 1 the invasion of t t. in the Mexican war Tennessce’s quota was 80, and 30,000 volunteers responded to the call. In fact, from the revolution to | the kreat civil onflict Tenne took a | leading part in every the war between the stat fur- nished acy and $ to the Union; thirty-nine to the confederates ralists. To the southern a Maury, the pathil: to the northern a Far tT furnished more civil war than any other be disputed. Four hun- and eight battles and skirmishe: fought within her Im aon | passim un: Yy other sta | sinia; soil here holds s than does w all is ; hould the restored | Union catl regiment after regi- | ment would ‘ast us men could rs of the victorious or th gambler named in New York, whe tco slow for him, h me of poker So to Pe Was soon popular among prin They play poker somewhat differently j there from what we do in this country. There never is any money in sight. A man sits near the tabie and records the bets, ment is made after the came is over. This bookkeeper is also a linguist, and whenever foreigners play with these was be the » even if he could not talk Persian. young princes, as in Dougherty’s case, | ils of the “raises.” One night Dougherty had 1 trailing in cn nearly ¢ hand, only beaten in the “show-down.” Finally he caught a pair of sixes about the tin | one of the princes aught four ef w kind. There had been a deal of “jollying” and “horse pl going on all the night. Dougherty, of course, could net under- | stand the words that were being spilled out around him ev | anythin, second, but he or looked interested. He | simp kin his cards, come in wh wanted to or lay down, just as the » struck him. hen he picked up his sixes, r sata would he looked the Persian in . and the Persian laughed. “True. Said the | Persian. wuying me, I reckon,” said | Dougherty, “but I'll give you some of your own sort of words. True-le-lum.” le-Iili-lo,” said the Persian. ‘True-te- lili-lcte-lum, jed Dougherty but befor he could get the words out of his mouth, the young prince thréy down his four of a kind, kicked the tabl ing near, and brok “Heavens, man!” exclaimed ‘you raised him on a sofa I sob. ina the in- "seven millions tee Eating on the Ratlway. From the Railway and Engineering Review If railroads catered less to the wealthy classes and endeavored to furnish better accommodaiions to people of moderate means at reasonable prices there might be more of a disposition on the part of the public to regard such corporations in a spirit of fairness than is at present ap- parent. Matters of this kind, aithough of rather minor importance, might go a long way toward softening some of the un- pleasant relations existing between citizen and corporation and the averting of a vast amount of useless agitation over supposed grievances. oe It matters little what it is that you waat —whether a situation or a servant—a “want” ad. in The Star will reach the person who can fill your need. aa From Life.