Evening Star Newspaper, June 5, 1897, Page 24

24 THE | NG STAR, SATURDAY, JUNE ~~ TASUMMER WARDROBE [z= tearrata 2 se Fitting Ohitires Out With Dresses for Vacation. ao, 1897—28 PAGES.” ole Sed tipo gee a wae en es, not being NOW THAT SCHOOL 18 NEARLY OVER jf irc tx BESS orn, Settee bs tical d be worn, because sight is too precious a thing to trifle With. There are hundreds of women who have had headaches all their lives, head- aches that sent them to bed for days at a time, who learned at thirty, or forty, that their headaches were due to defect of vis- jon, and that glasses would have corrected the trouble early in life, yet they have grown gray-headed over the “neuralgic” pains, or the “exhaustion” that brought on these dreadful spells. One physician said that if he dared to prescribe larger shoes, Spectacles and a bath tub for two-thirds of his _wcmen patients instead of headache wders, and they took the prescription, is occupation would soon be gone. There is no quicker or cleaner remedy, nor one more efficacious for local soreness or pains, than hot applications. Dry heat 1s always the most comfortable, though many think that hop and vinegar applica- tion or straight hot water are preferable, because of the steam. One has to be more careful not to catch cold after damp appli- cations. Dry heat is easily made, and Practical Designs for Picturesque and Serviceable Costumes. a COLORS AND MATERIALS Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. HE CHILDREN’S summer wardrobe is the all-absorbing top- fe to the mothers just now, for school days are nearly over and ere !ong the lit- tle scholars will be fitting to the coun- n good rule - y é Ut, Buy the Best " CLEVELANDS BAKING POWDER. try and seashore to spend their vacation. The most important purt of this outing is the array of gowns and suits necessary keeps longer, if heated salt is poured in a bag loose enough to let the salt adjust it- self to the spot, and placed o: A soft, firm woolen ‘bag a Soe he Pain, nD lhereg to the cloth- used many, times over, and Suitable for Visiting or for Afternoon Wear. GIVES AN IDEA OF ITALIAN FASHIONS Tailor-Made Costumes No Longer Marked by Simplicity. LIGHT WRAPS FOR SUMMER (Copyright, 1897, by Wm. Du Bois.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. TURIN, May 25, 1897. The present fashion, with her wavering precepts and her great concession to per- sonal taste, is an interesting study to the observer, but the fashion prognostic oftea finds himeelf placed in the unpleasant po- sition of having to contradict his previous prophecies. Such models as deserve their claim of being called a nouveaute give an impres- tion of scantiness in spite of the rich trim- mings and thus the combat of the sleeve, already decided in favor of narrowness, has begun anew. Sleeves of medium width still hold their own and even the leg o° mutton is received in its becoming modified form. The much discussed trousseau of a bride in highest aristocratic circles decided- ly favors this last-named sleeve form, par- ticularly in connection with dalmatic epau- lettes or flounces to add still more to the width of the shoulder and upper arm. At the same occasion, we also observe that although the pointed bodice 1s displayed on one or two gowns, the blouse still holds the place of honcr. One gown designed for evening dress as well as for afternoon wear is made of cream white striped ben- galine. The skirt of comfortable walking length is quite plain, while the unlined, elabcrately tucked biouse with jabot of real lace, is confined at the waist by a gold belt closed by a buckle in the shape of a gold snake with emerald eyes. Such charming simplicity of form in connection with costly materia! is the triumph of good taste over the bizarre caprices of © Or apron overskirt fs another red skirt ornament which bids abused, although fine effects san be obtained by this trimming. The tunic is either made as an overskirt, or may be immed to simulate one, in which © milliners’ folds are often used, par- lor-made or traveling dress- kirt and applied by rows shops exhibit even laces ded form to be placed smoothly on the plain skirt to resemble the tunic. Tailor-made pockets are again scen in the front gore of worsted dresses, and are trimmed to match thi est of the garment. Braiding and Embroidery. Braiding 1s the favorite embellishment, also embroidery, provided it resembles braiding. A novelty in this line is the ap- Plication of narrow baby ribbon following the design on lace insertion or edging, which adorns silk gowns, often forming also the tablier or zouave jacket. In black and white toilets the effect is exceedingly striking when the black ribbon is appliqued on white lace and the latter in its turn is lined with black silk. Accordion and knife pleatings are so uni- versally becoming that the end of their reign ig not to be predicted in the near fu- ture. Gauzes, nets and mousseline de soie lend themselves admirably to this style. A model for a black visiting or afternoon tol- let is sure to appeal to our transatlantic sisters, as it combines all the features which mark the styles of the present sea- son. The foundation underskirt is of black satin, narrow and close-fitting in form, and is entirely covered by finely accordion- pleated black mousseline de soie, and black satin tabs covered with black jetted net graduating in length, the largest being in front, the shortest at the back, and form- ing a tunic which permits the pleated gauze to be seen between the tabs. The black satin lining of the blouse is also tight-fitting and is covered by full accor- dion pleated ‘mousseline de sole. The tab trimming is continued at the front and back of the waist. The tight-fitting black satin sleeve is also covered with black mousseline de soie, the upper arm being entirely concealed by two- large *black flounces of black, covered with jetted net and edged with the jet trimming. The sau- cer collar and cuffs are of red velvet, edged with jet, and a belt of red velvet confines the fullness of the mousseline at the waist, and closes at the back with ao butterfly bow of red velvet and a large, finely pol- ished jet buckle. Tailor-Made Gowns. ‘Tailor-made gowns have lost their char- acteristic simplicity. An elegant model is composed of sand-colored poplin, a textile which, on account of its soft draping quali- ties, combined with a dull luster, has be- come a great favorite. The short jacket, as well as the hem of the plain narrow skirt, is trimmed tastefully with rows of milliners’ folds. The vest is of heavy green and flowered Roccoco silk, double-breasted and closing with eight buttons of gold fili- gree. The decollete of the vest is filled out by a dickey of tucked white surah, with pleated lace-edged jabot, and the stiff linen collar is encircled by a narrow black satin man's cravat. ‘The tailor’s imagination is given a wide scope in the manufacture of outdoor gar- ments, in which scantiness of form, narrow sleeves and plain basques are covered with gaudy trimmings. A military jacket of blue cloth is evi- dently an imitation of the Spanish or Por- tuguese uniforms, with its dark cerise silk reveres, round gold buttons and gold hus- sar brandenbourgs. Another jacket of dark red cloth seems to have been modeled after the historical “Trilby” coat, but for the per- fection of fit, and the cloth being cut “a jour,” to disclose a bronze leather under- lnin, Cape-like wraps for matrons show long sash ends, and are often made up of silk of two different but harmonizing shades, like crushed strawberry and Nile green, the contrast being dampened by a covering of black pleated mousseline de sole, gauze or black lace embroidered with steel or jet beads. For jaunty, youthful toilets, the unfailing short zouave or Eton jacket, in bright colors, with darker braiding, is pre- ferred. However, the styles for outdoor wraps are too varied and numerous to be fully described. We seem to live in a fash- fon period in which anything can be worn —with exception, perhaps, of the super- voluminous sleeve. Sige ee (DE GasPaRI, ROSA E ToRTA, Turin.) In » Quandary. From the Cincinnati Enquirer. He—“Er—these stories your father tells about the things he saw out west, you know—" laugh at their improbability and make him think I am smart, or ought I to pretend that I believe them?” Not Qualified. From the Chicago Record. “Jack, do you think Miss Pidgie will join our Sweetness and Light Club?” “T can't say; she's death on caramels, but she likes the lamp turned low.” “Want” ads. in The Star pay because they bring answers. - Mr. weet you think it rude to ask a lady her age?” “Yes. But so rude as to try to guess it."—Life, bands of white or to keep the restless youngsters fresh and clean during the long summer days. While there is nothing strikirgly new this sea- son, many pretty and serviceable costumes have been designed for children’s wear, Plaid Chambrey. especially in wash fabrics. The little girls wiN be picturesque and at the same time comfortable in their sailor suits and big hats, or gathered yoke dresses and quaint sunbonnets, while the boys may run and climb to their hearts’ content in clothes made especially for hard usage. Im the choice of materials there is a wide range. Certainly the locm has never pro- duced prettier patterns nor greater variety in summer fabrics. Plain colors, checks, plaids, two-toned effects, dots, tiny flower- besprinkled grounds, are the leading de- signs. Colors are softer, the cool tones of mignonette and leaf green, delicate tans and wood browns and pale violets are the favorites, though the pinks and blues are by no means ignored. Red, in clear, strong shades, the season’s prevailing color, 1s very much used for the children’s jacket for sashes and hat trimmings. Linen gren- adine, which launders admirably, twilled linen, galatea, piqu chambrey, batiste, dimity, organdie, grass linen, made with self-colored insertion, run with velvet ribbon or put over bands of color, and dotted muslia, are the popular warm weather fabrics. Trimming, unless it 1s plain or wave A Pretty Shirt Waist. len braid, is not used on the knock-about dresses, b&t the little muslins and other filmy staffs are much trimmed with baby ribbon, run lace, and further adorned with wide epaulet frills. A little gown that is as comfortable as it is pretty is worn by the little woman of eleven. It is made of violet, brown and green plaid chambrey. The skirt, which reaches two inches below the knee, is gath- ered very full on a ycke of plain green. The waist, also of plain green, fits the fig- ure easily by means of side seams, but has fullness front and back and wide revers full sleeves have ASE cuffs. - ‘of ‘plain chambrey. the guimpe should be a solid color, and vice versa. This same model may be used for an older girl, by:shirring at the waist to fcrm a short. puffed bedice and finishing with a belt. If there are half-worn woo: dresses on hand that will be outgrown by next year, they may be very well utilized by ripping off the waist and using the skirt to wear with shirt waists, as tle craze for them has extended to girls of all ages this season. A pretty design has neat turn- over cuffs and collar and frill on each side of the broad pleat for studs. A more childish model has a deep round yoke, with a ruffle by way of finish, and fastens with pearl buttons at the back. For an evening gown not to be laun- dered a corded cream batiste. powdered with tiny yellow flower wreaths fs charm- ing. Pleat the skirt and make with full blouse, forming a point. The neck of the blouse, cut out in deep V, fill with dotted net and put pointed ruffie of net run with black velvet ribbon at the top of the puffed elbow sleeves. Of Flecked Wool, The gown on the little brunette maid is the perfection of daintiness. It is a clear striped pink and white lawn, with a border of white strewn with rpsebuds. The full skirt has no trimming saye this border, but the show blouse {5 quite elaborate with its side ruffles edged with lace, big lace rosettes ‘and beruffled neck and. elhow sleeves. Light brown hose and bronzé slip- pers may be worn with, this dainty gown, or black silk hose and patent leathers. The little woman's wardrobe is no more complete without a White dress or two than her big sister's. The best choice is dotted or figured muslin, trimmed with Valenciennes lace. She should have gev- eral sets of ribbons, pale green, yellow, white and flowered, to wear with these little gowns. Cool days must be provided for. A charm- ing little gown is of navy blue flecked with green. Its simplicity will recommend it at once. Indeed, it would be an excellent model for wash fabrics. The little revers are faced with ribbed green silk and the ribbon around the waist is green, too. The shoulder ruffie is heavy cream lace. In shepherd’s check with revers, cuff and band of velvet on the skirt, it would serve admirably for a traveling gown. The pretty deep collars of embroidery are great aids in smartening up a toilet,especial- ly the wool gowns, on dull days. They are a positive boon to the mother, who can only, provide a limited summer wardrobe for her little maidens. She may make the ginghams with plain waists and skirts to facilitate laundering, and, with a good sup- ply of these collars, rest content in the thought they will always look dainty an@ sweet. 'Th® small boy will be delighted to learn that curls and ruffled shirt waists will not be very much in evidence this season—the latter for only little tots on dress occa- sions. Sailor blouses with deep collars and shield fronts are made up in mixtures, as well as navy blue, and are worn with knickerbockers, which are more comfort- able than the regular man-o'-warsman suit. The wife of an artist who has two beautiful boys of five and seven might be safely followed as a guide for the dressing of small boys. Instead of spoiling the symmetry of their slim little figures with big, bulging, befrilled shirt waists, and trousers that look more like trunks, they are always clad in sailor suits—of wool or duck—those for dress up wonderfully em- broidered with anchors and stars. With their yelow hair clipped into short locks, and their suits of dull blue smartened up with crimson, they are fit subjects for their father’s brush, only, unfortunately, he doesn’t paint portraits. HOUSEHOLD HINTS “Broiled tomatoes” has a nice sound, and this is the way to do them: The torhatoes must be perfectly firm of texture, round in form and barely ripe. Dip in scalding water for one minute, and then remove the skins. Put in the ice box for an hour to get cold and firm again. Cut thick slices and dust them with salt and pepper and put on a buttered brofler. Put oyer a hot fire, and turn quickly, twice, Poyr melted butter over them when served op a hot dish. Lemon juice mixed with salt is one of the best remedies for i Aust Lay the rust- ed garment. over sfvefal layers of soft cloth, and with anofher bit of soft cloth rub the rusted spot with the lemon and salt, then put in the.sun, keeping it satur- ated for a time. f ‘The other day a mother was complaining to a friend that her little daughter was so diffident that it wag positively painful to take the child with her anywhere, but that she was forcing her to meet people,. and shake hands with tHem and talk to them, as she meant to break her of the bad habit. This was wrong. Some: children are ex- tremely nervous, and lifé{s simply a burden to them because of it. -It is a nervousness that is treated half the'time as cowardice, and the child is ridiculed‘and made fun of, till it is driven to think’that death must be pleasant, since it would rid it of its tor- mentors. Grown people are often troubled with this kind of diffidence, and could face @ loaded cannon as easy as a crowd of gap- ing people, and yet a slip of a child who can charm its family with its ittle-songs or recitations, is _tortured with family dis- pleasure, if it shrinks from facing.a crowd- ed parlor. The thought works on the ac- tive little -brain, till congestion: or ‘some other dreadfat- tll comes to end its troubles. It would be far kinder to children to-keep them babies in thought and action for a few years, anyhow, and this forcing house putting them before the public If the child grows the home, as Pitte’s oat can you do is to let it stay at home till it gets over ite shyness naturally. ‘When & child bigine to’ develop headaches in a skil!at. Try ham fixed this way, once, and sce if you do not like it: Slice the ham for broil- ing, and put it to soak over night in but- termilk, or if you have no buttermilk, sweet milk is a fair substitute. Lift out of the milk bath and rinse in cold waiter, and then wipe dry on a clean towel. thF ae eae wel, ao or , Se eggs are delicious. Place a layer of stale bread crumbs or crackers ii the bottom of a buttered baking dish. Pour over this enough cream or rich sweet milk to moisten. Break over this three or four fresh eggs, pricking the yolks to break them. Put on another layer of crumbs, cream and bits of butter, and a layer of sliced cold boiled eggs. Over that a layer cemthe Shapes a plenty of butter, nd some s: and pepper, which should be sprinkled over eve: . half an hour in a hot ‘oven. ee When things boil over in the oven or you spill juices or baked meats, let them char, then you can remove them easily. You should brush out the oven as re- ligiously as you do the kitchen, and it should be aired thoroughly after cooking spiced things, or onion dressing, or any- thing of that kind in it. If you neglect to keep the oven scrupulously clean you will find that everything that comes out of it will have the same flavor, exactly as a big hotel's viands seem to have. Here is a Ifst of meats and their relishes: Roast pork and roast goose, apple sauce roast beef, grated horseradish; roast veal, tomato or mushroom sauce; mutton, roast, currant jelly; boil, caper sauce; lamb, mint sauce; boiled chicken, bread sauce; roast turkey, cranberry sauce; boiled turkey, oyster sauce; venison or wild ducks, black currant jelly; broiled fresh mackerel, stewed gooseberries; boiled bluefish, white cream sauce; broiled shad, boiled rice and compote of pigeons, mushroom fresh salmon, green peas, cream sauce. To make a mistake in serving meat relishes is to offend the taste of an epicure beyond hope of pardon. Oil colors, varnish and resin can usually be easily removed from clothing by apply- ing spirits of turpentine, alcohol or ben- zine, then washing the spot with soap and water. This for cotton goods, of course. If the stain is old, wet with turpentine sev eral times and let it lie for a time im- mersed in a saucer of the stuff. Adding a cup of freshly grated cocoanut to the cookie dough makes it doubly ac- ceptable to the children. Hard-finished walls can be easily cleaned by using ammonia in perfectly clean hot water. Brush the walls down with a broom first, then go over them with a big flannel cloth; then wash that cloth per- fectly clean and rub the walls with the ammonia water, having a care to rinse them afterward ‘with a clean cotton cloth. They will come out of the ordeal as white as milk. One tablespoonful of butter rubbed into three of flour makes a delicious upper crust for pies. If the butter is quite salt do not salt the dough. A plain cake properly made, with sweet fresh eggs and butter, is just as palatable and inviting as the richest, and more di- gestible. Children naturally crave sweets of this character,’ and they should have them in proper quantity and at proper times. But it is unwise and positively hurtful to give them the rich indigestible pastries and cakes that come to the tables in most homes. As a general thing fat people and those who are fond of the pleasures of the table and spend their substance in catering to their appetites are slow of gait and sad of wit. A long-ago writer said: “Through a surfeit of eating, wisdom is hindered and the understanding is darkened.” A busy woman who has to account for the seconds, to get all done that is cut out for her one pair of hands, is fond of read- ing the newspapers, but gets little time. She reads the headlines, and when they indicate a particularly interesting subject she cuts the scrap out, and pokes it in her hand bag, and riding in the street cars or when she has to wait the slow motions of some One else, reads the clippings, and is counted one of the best-informed women of the day. It is an excellent idea. a “Why don’t you stop this everlasting grind, Richly? You’re worth a couple of millions now.” “A mere drop in the bucket, sir. My daughter has set her mind upon marrying a titled foreigner.”—Detroit Free Press. How the Equilibrist Gave the Juggler a Light. DIAMOND JUBILEE GOWNS. Express Their Joy. in Gowns and Millinery. (Copyright, 1897, by Bachcller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. LONDON, May 29, 1897. summer. ture, queen’s thus to womanhood. daughters, and their granddaughters, not admire. kees. BRILLIANT coLoRS| English Women Are Using Them to IN HONOR OF THE QUEEN'S JUBILEE Striving After the Early Victorian TIMELY FASHION HINTS HERE IS A QUEER conscience element in English fashions this Female Britons, peering anx- fously into the fu- see posterity peering back #t them and asking with cold curiosity what were the costumes of the jubilee. Steadfastly determin- ed to make a good figure in the eyes of the ages, female Britons scrutinize every bat or gown ,fferad to them with the “un- flinching query, what will they think of this in 3,000 years? It i8 a painful business repare for the verdict of history, but the “record reign” imposes duties not to be shirked by an ealightened and united It seems to be accepted that it is neces- sary to be.early Victorian. But where does leyalty end and gross imitation begin? Dressmakers and milliners are still at odds over this question. The matter of colors is more easily settled. Royal purple and scar- let “our granddaughters and great grand- studying “this extraordinary year of the diamond reign,” will understand if they do So, too, with the queen’s tar- tan. Red, white and blue, the Victoria colors, are as British this season as if they weren’t also the tricolor of the French and the star-spangled banner of the Yan- Posterity may get a little confused here, but when it has puzzled the matter out it can but acknowledge the necessities of the situation. Another point, too, is obvious. Bright tints must go shining dcwn the centuries. By our blues and our greens and our pinks, our yellows and our mauves, by muslins sprigged with rose- buds and foulards flecked with forget-ine- nots, the future must know that we were really glad. Some enthusiasts have sug- gested that parliament pass an act cre- ating “a picturesque costume for the lower classes” in commemoration of the jubilee. I doubt if parliament will get around to this, but it illustrates the British sense of duty and lack of a sense of humor. Worth Description. From the foregoing paragraph it will be comprehensible that a laborious grasping perfection is the striking feature of record reign gowns. In spite of this fact some of them are good enough to be worth descrip- tion. At the great coaching show which assembled a day or two ago on the Horse Guards Parade I noticed a tall, slender, dark women, well posed on a box seat, in a pale green and white foulard gown in pre-Raphaelitish design. The skirt, tight- ly fitting over the hips, fell in a deep loose ficunce to the hem from a yoke of foulard which formed a point front and back. About the hem of the flounce was a broad insertion of ecru guipure, through which narrow pale green ribbon was passed in anu out at top and boitom. The biouse corsage was made apparently of line upon line of this basket work trimming, set ver- tically, and was belted with faint green moire. A large picture collar, standing high ebout the neck and fitting squarely over the shoulders, with outstanding epaulettes, = > On the left side the skirt was raised a bit to show slanting folds of silk divided by bands of black velvet. The bodice was close fitting and the smallness of the waist was emphasized by three narrow black velvet bands. In parenthesis, only English- women can draw their corset strings in the English manner without calling in the coroner. A bolero of string-colored lace over white satin was an important item, as were the slanting velvet bands upon the tight sleeves. A yoke and collar of shirred white chiffon softened the neck, while a decidedly chic touch was the hat of black straw with its high, many-ended bow of fine black tulle. Item; some white ribbon. Item; a cluster of full-blown red roses. At the second spring meeting at San- down I made shift to sketch a blue canvas frock over a gold silk foundation. I ad- mired the red cheeks of the girl who wore it much more than I did the dress, though this latter wasn’t half bad. But red cheeks are as English as shirt waists that ride up the back, and these are painfully com- mon. The canvas skirt had four narrow Valenciennes lace frills to edge it at the hem. It had also a vest of white silk and, over this, a square-cornered bolero lace- frilled Mike the skirt and finished with a deep collar lying over the shoulders and lace-covered. It had a black satin waist band and was crowned by a broad Leghorn hat wreathed with corn flowers. An Early Victorian Bonnet. There is a peculiar kind of bonnet that is rife in London. I suspect it of being early Victorian. It has @ cylindrical crown that takes the head comfortably inside and a broad flaring brim that comes well out be- yond the point of the most enterprising nose. From my lofty perch on top of a "bus I observed a pink and mauve bonnet of this description on Regent street this afternoon. It was plaited of a coarse, soft mauve straw in two shades and trimmed inside the brim with delicate pink roses half buried in white lace. The only outside trimming was a band of pink ribbon car- ried over the crewn and coming down un- der the chin to tle in long strings. With it Was worn @ mauve cashmere dress, but of this I know no details. The guard called to the driver, “Most five minutes late, Bill, and it’s tea time!” At this pathetic ap- peal we whipped up and the frock was lost to view. At_a bazaar which got itself opened by the Marchioness of Lorne yesterday I saw among other notable frocks one of a soft dark shade of blue crepe de chine sprigged with tiny turquoise blue flowers and fur- ther patterned with line stripes in white. This for the skirt. The bodice had a full front of turquoise blue chiffon, and the neck was unfettered by any band, though a deep collar of lace frills upon a blue foundation fell over the shoulders. The sleeves were of white crepe de chine, little tucks alternating with insertions of lace. A distinctly novel touch was given by broad stole ends of tucked crepe de chine and lace which hung from the collar below the waist front. The hat which bore this dress company was of dark blue straw, the brim edged with a little ruffling of tea ‘rose yellow chiffon and the crown encircled by @ wreath of pale blue forget-me-nots, sur- mounted by cleverly wired loops of yellow chiffon, each edged narrowly with Valen- ciennes lace. Of Lavender Silk. A second costume to be seen on the same cccasion was of lavender glace silk, the skirt accordion pleated but left free at the bottom in a deep, full flounce. The blouse bodice was made with a yoke of fine white French lawn laid in tucks and edged with Mechlin lace. Lace-edged revers turned back in front and both basque and collar had the same soft and daipty finishing. The sleeves were accordion-pleated under half handkerchief epaulets, expanding again at the hand. The fanciful hat was of pink straw and had {ts brim softened with lavender tulle. The crown was almost hidden under damask roses and foliage. At Her Majesty's Theater last evening one of the best gowns in the audience was a rose figured silk of Gistinctly early Vic- torian design. The full spreading skirt was circled with a flounce on headed with rosy tinted chiffon. is flounce was caught up in front and f@stened half way to the waist with clusters of roses and thistles each side of the front panel of heavy ribbon figured brocac The low cut brocade bodice was softened about the Cecolletage with chiffon and roses. Instead of a hat a wreath of roses and thisties did duty. ELLEN OSBORN. “« ” S.K. Dominant . J Light Drink ofthe day. Unlike all ed distinct last! on postion character of its own. - Not a malt drink, nor yet a mem- ber of the fdmily of so-called soft drinks, n¢ eless it satis- “fies the demands of the better than any other ever ee rar ewete ob