Evening Star Newspaper, March 13, 1897, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MARCH 13, 1897-24 PAGES. 17 SPRING COSTUMES AT /NICB. ON THE RIVIERA - Spring Colors and Costumes Seen at Nice. COACHING ON THE CORNICHE ROAD Description of Some of the Most Striking Costumes. ee IN CASINO AND PARKS at Corr nee of The Evening Star eps Bacheller Sgndicate.) NICE, March 1, 189 . HE DAY BEFOREI left Cairo a party of Zz Snglish people re- turned from up the = ile. “How cold it is.’ they shivered. while he rest of us were running away because it was too warm. Perhaps, too, fear of the plague “hurried us a little. But in Nice I shiver in my turn, and peo- who have been er in the Riv: laugh and lounge t wraps in the suns’ Traveling th from Egypt is like cooling off from a Turkish bath ily, and Nice ts a fine intermediate sta- tion, = ~ Si Se ple Spring Dresses. asino on this jetty and the Prom- Anglais are even gayer than hen I w away. The spring colors are fresh and charming, and the longer dresses When you don't stop to think of the incon venience of them, have a sweeping gracé the effect of the nd pink, with more lace than ever n yet, and with masses of flowers, The to is I see. Bonnets have ap- 4 again. real bonnets with strings t tie under the chin. The princess dress ought them, or that is my theory. - fashions of a season are all somehow ideal. One and we wear flat hats and mbroidered muslin. Another © after dignity and civilization, on bonfets and trailing gowns. neory is possible, and that ts wain we shift the method of at- the universal n of woman—to We have worn hats up to they are reputed to be youth- broad bonnet ribbons be- fe or to a faded complex- “k that begins to show Casino Costumes. 0: le. here ts a handsome dress 1 this afternoon in the casino green taffeta laid in accordion pleats and cut as a trailing "ess gown. The sleeves and the entire k of show the long yteld- ing. The skirt opens iown upon a front of applique ream-colored lace of green taffeta, without «. A scarf drape of creamy lace a black velvet knot upon the ied across the bust, and allowed to fall half-way ple es fixed b: left should: 2 aga he ground. to There ts a black velvet beit collar. and there fs a very small bon- green tulle, with a knot of black 1 white parad bird plumes. 1 but there were strings to an- « not far off, and the bonnet was Wort by an obviously young woman. Water Green Faille. ‘This second costume was of water green or some s so heavy. Ik pon the princess a skirt sseline de jaid fu pleais from the throat leeted front was gath- la braid and jewels. made long ce nad dainty frills over the for one reaches that id braid, with th of about th frame shind and the velvet ribbon. opening in < kreen t not, for casino worn by a aps of her Lew French Stytes. er types were the dresses of wo French girls strolling un para- lored bolero embroidered with ss in flower designs of lead-color a blouse pink pigeon he hat It will be so: ried woman. ith trimmings of & brown giace ; you have to take It grad- | ar it is pasto- ;| | ed with the same material in bold arabes- | giving picture. | that wes, after all, perhaps nearer cream color. It was figured in yellow with a toh of green, and made with a blouse gathered like a chemisette across the top and belted with a broad folded sash of yellow satin. Her hat was-a flat brown straw trimmed with yellow ros In the Public Gardens. The public gardens attract almost as many people as the sea wall, for the anem- ones are in blossom. Under the palms and pepper trees this morning an English girl i her lover were strolling, and she was blouse and sailor hat and fresh as her spring fixings. Her skirt was a fine old rose serge, made with three pleats behind. Her blouse was of grass linen hinting of jd rose. Last summer you weuld-know it made over old rose silk, but that is not the idea this spring. The threads of silk are woven in with the linen and sometimes a@ bit of tinsel is added, too. You get a fabric that is light, cogl and of novel color t, and what more could you desire? siik-linen blouse was made with ekirts that ruffled about the hips under the nar- row belt of gold braid. It was made bright in front by embroidery in goid thread and pink floss upon strips of grass linen. It full sleeves gathered into long cuffs set with embroidery. A smart little in cravat tie finished the turn-over collar, The white sailor hat was rather broader than last year’s and was finished with a band of old rose and green ribbon. On the Corniche. Coaching on the Corniche road is in full swing and pretty gowns bloom on the box seat constantly. One of the best and most novel so far was a fine brownish yellow cloth, with skirt quite straight in front, the effect of having been drawn sharply to the back, where it hung in deep folds. A foot and a half from the ground it was circled eight or ten times by a fine black velvet cord. The bodice was a bo- lero closed in front and giving the effect of a sleeveless blouse. It was of yellow brown silk outlined with black velvet cord and worked with gold embroidery. The sleeves were of the skirt material, corded near the shoulders, tapering gradually and not becoming tight until just before they reached the hand. Black velvet collar, gold cord belt and small hat of yellow straw trimmed with black and green were the accessories. I see a good many empire gowns even for street wear. They are very pretty in- doors, but rather comical in, for example, a brisk sea wind. There is a lot of tucking, too. Some of the spring frocks are tucked from neck to hem, Tailor Gowns. Tailor gowns are built quite frequently upon the princess plan. One of light gray | cloth opens upon a front of military blue. The robe is corded up and down the sides with dark blue silk, and the front is braid- ques. The bodice has a flat collar, which comes down in epaulettes upon the should- ers, and is of the gray cloth with dark blue braid. A black straw hat is worn, with trimmings of cornflowers. Another (1s of white cloth with full round skirt, foundation. | trimmed with narrow gold brald set about It in five groups, each of three or four rows. The bodice is a bolero edged with gold braid and loops and opening on a vest of white silk. The bolero turns back upon the shoulders in broad revers, mak- Ing epaulettes and a flat collar.’ The sleeves hardly expand at all at the should- ers, not more than enough to acknowledge the shape of the arm. They are trimmed at the flaring wrists with gold braid. White is the favorite color for the “bicy- clette” gown. A girl who dashed about under the heels of the horses at all hours wears white pique and a white hat with pink roses. She has full skirts, which are rare here. Bloomers are not so general as they were a year or two ago, but they are still in a large majority. ILLEN OSBORN. oe Hints of Paris Fashions, From Harper's Bazar. Hats are trimmed very high on the left side. Lovely all-gray hats are seen with the all-gray frocks, trimmed with feathers or flowers, such as gray and white poppies. One sees the scarlet note in the fancy for wearing scarlet poppies with ball gowns. A gown of embroidered gauze over pale | pink has the epaulette on the left shoulder of scarlet poppies. And a fascinating even- ing gown worn at the last premiere at the vaudeville was of pale blue moire poplin, trimmed with mauve velvet and popples. The corsage was covered with delicate lace drawn tghtly over the exquisitely fitting Enes. The ceinture was a narrow one of mauve velvet fastened in front with a large jeweled buckle. The sleeves were tiny epaulettes of lace, daintily falling over and mingling with butterfly sleeves of tulle, | open to show a strand of diamonds and sap- phires falling over the outside of the arm. ‘The flowers were scarlet poppies. All dinner gowns and many ball gowns now are seen with long, tightly fitting leeves of lace coming down over the hand. ening dresses are still made of delicate colors combined with Pompadour and other flowered silks—very little Pompadour and flowers, sometimes only a little inserted in the front of the bodice—with a long Pom- padour sash, consisting of two ends fall- ing down behind, bordered all about with a puff of tulle. These sashes also finish thin | black gowns, and invariably spring at the waist from a wide fancy buckle. Hair is worn much higher than formerly in Paris. No chignon should now be seen at the back of the hat. The proper thing now ts to wave your hair behind, and fasten it up straight, not twisted, with a comb that goes across the back of the head and is just seen below the edge of the hat. ‘Then the hair is made into a loose twis: just at the top of the head. POPULAR BRANDS. A mild domestic. MEN’S SPRING STYLES What Will Be Proper for This Season's Wear. Conservatism Apparent in the Cut of Garments—Hats, Neckwear and Linen. From Harper's Bazar. The very early spring is the time to prophesy about the fashions, although it will pe a little time yet before one will see them in the streets. This year has been most conservative and the only change of the winter has been the adoption of the cutaway, or morning coat, for busi- ness wear. This, of course, applies to the coat of that shape made from colored tweeds, homespuns and cheviots, to be worn with trousers of the same material and @ waistcoat either of ditto or of some fancy pattern and different color. The semi-sack, semi-reefer, is another coat which has come into great popular favor. Neither of these garments is strictly new, but they have been accepted very slowly indeed by well-dressed men. Gray mixtures have taken the place of browns, and the old blue serge, particularly with the reefers, Is again coming into fashion, if it ever went entirely out. Gray is the color for the spring season, and it will be combined with blue, and not so mych with red. The sack coat is the favorite business garment of America, and its popularity in this season and in the one to come will never be diminished. This coat has two side pockets, but nu breast pocket, and fis loosely to the figure, is usually worn un- buttoned. It is single-breasted. The breast pocket Is, in fact, entirely out of fashion. The pocket handkerchief must be kept out of sight, ard in no coat, of whatever style, an there be more than two outside pock- ets. The frock coat, indeed, has none, the inside pocket being the only receptacle for the handkerchief or card case. The London tailors offer what they call two distinct styles of morning coats, one very long in the skirt and sharply cut away, and the other shorter, about thirty inches in length. Tall men have taken to the cutaway business suit on this side of the ocean, but in doing so they have adopted a happy medium. The length of the coats is about thirty-three inches, and they are neither long-waisted nor full-buttoned. In frock and evening coats there is abso- lutely no radical change to record. All garments are made as moderately loose as they are moderately tight. It is the abso- lutely conservative measure. Exaggera- tion of any description will be avoided. Trousers are still in the peg top style, and the cut is loose about the hips and tight in moderation on the legs. Very tight trou- sers are as much out of fashion as those which are very loose. The shirtings are certainly v. gor- aua the patterns contain checks and stripes of all shades of pink and red. The very wide checks and tartans which are being exhibited by the leading shirt mak- ers are not being ordered as much er patterns, such as the hair s the solid blues and lavender: the pinks. The colored shirt has come to stay. As usual, the cuffs will be the same material as the shirt itself, and the col- lars will be tall standing. The all-around turndowns have lost much of their popu- jJarity with well-dressed men, and as for the half-size turn-downs to be worn with stiff bows, they are promises made by the haberdashers which will not bear fruit with conservative persons. They are awk- ward, ugly and have a cheap look that will hardly take with the better clas: In ties and neckwear generally there is little that is new. For the spring the shops are showing a line of pretty silks, in pat- tern small figures of white on blue and black grounds. These are made up in bows or again in four-in-hands. There has been much taking up of the white Ascot or puff scarf. The material !s white marseilles or nen or China silk, or a heavier grade of the same fabric. The tie pin is placed well up in the scarf, and the V formed by the two overlapping aprons is very narrow. While twilled silk has also been a favorite material for the Ascot, and these seem to be worn almost universally in the after- noons with frock coats. In evening wear there has been a return to the butterfly form of tle for the narrow band of cambrie or lawn which encircles our collars. The wings are made square and somewhat large, and the body stiff and absolutely rectangular. Evening shirts have three buttons instead of two, and the one shirt stufl is not gaining favor. Never were the collars so high or so un- compromising, and the cuffs are absolutely square in shape. Detached cuffs receive, as usual, the condemnation of the well- dressed or the neat, but the collars are al- lowed. In England men seem to brave opinion and to throw a little color into their clothes. This especially applies to ties, the murky atmosphere of London possibly requiring some bright hue. The tartans and the plaids, in which the windows of the New York shops are glaringly gay just at present, make very effective neck- wear even for our clear, clean-cut atmos- phere. In the English metropol's just now one hears of Indian red, strong buffs and sage-green, with white or colored designs upon them, as well as of dark green fou- lard with stripes, as the most fashionable novelties for four-in-hands and bows. Gray suede gloves have not lost caste with smartly dressed men, and have held their own as well as brown and tan kids. The reindeer glove, once such a favorite, is one of the has-beens, and the dressy white kid has not proved the success ex- pected of it for afternoon wear. By the time spring comes in earnest the white kid, except for the evening, will have dis- appeared entirely. At many weddings it is still worn in place of pearl-gray, but it is as yet a novelty of an exotic charac- ter which does not agree kindly with our climate. It is also from London that the news of the popularity of the felt hat is wafted. There the very dressy young men have ordered hats to match the colors of their suits, and grays of several shades as well as browns are in demand. In this country the extreme golfists who have derided the introduction of the complete suiting—cap, krickers and all—from the ready-made dealer, are prepared to discard the cap and to wear, according to another person, cotton hose instead of the orthodox woolen. ‘These changes in attire seem to be inspir- ed by the Anglo-American combination rather than by those to the manner born. After all, it is a poor cad indeed who fears that because the ready-made dealer has taken up a garment he cannot afford to wear it. There exists always the distinc- tion between that with is common and that which is the hall mark of a gentle- man. and no vulgarity is able to efface it. Tailors are discussing the making of Tuxedo semi-evening dress in gray cloths, but innovations of this kind are too ex- treme for the well-dressed man. The tall- ors also tell us that low circular double- breasted dress waistcoats of bright silks will accompany the Tuxedo, but gentle- men avoid these very pronounced ideas. Much fs said on paper which is not put into practice. The man of common sense es. chews all these absurdities. With the ap- pearance of the crocus have sprouted in the show windows of haberdashers the most extraordinary array of colors and rainbow combinations. ‘The well-dressed man will, however, make no radical de- parture. for Spring Wear. From Harper's Ba: At last the taflors and dressmakers have shown a few gowns, hints of what are to be, not too many, for fear of being imi- tated by the trade, but enough to let us know that the fashions are particularly smart, not exaggerated in any respect, and with possibilities for everybody to be well gowned. Absolutely plain tailor gowns are in the minority; if there is no braiding or trimming, the material itself is so effective in coloring that the effect is not of sim- plicity. Mixed cheviots are to be had in a great many dif€erent colorings. One shade of green which will be popular has a touch of red and yellow and brown woven through it, and one gown made of it had a short jacket lined throughout with the check- ed niire, green, black and white, and the lapels and collar faced with the moire. Another cheviot in brown agd white shep- herds' paid was lined with brown and white checked moire. Shepherds’ plaids, by the way, will be greatly in demand in all materials, but the checked skirt and plain color jacket is not up to date, and the jacket must match the skirt in all cheviot costumes. This rule does not ap- py, to the ubiquitous Eton jacket, which as taken a firmer hold than ever. HOUSEHOLD HJ TS Just now the renovating of is is dis- turbing the housekeepers” péage mind. Carpets are among the unkind s that civilization imposes upon suffering humani- ty. Really sensible people have discarded them and use rugs instead, but if you have the great, heavy, tacked-down #hings that can only be taken up twice a yeareat most, you can freshen the colors with#ox gall. A teaspoonful to each gallon of lukewarm water is about the right proportion’ Sweep the carpet thoroughly, then sponge well with the mixture. Select a bright warm day, so that the carpet will dry at once. Very soon now the common séfrei will be pleuty. It makes a delicious salad by itself, with a nice mayonaise, but is even better when used plentifully with. lettuce. The kind meant grows commonly, in the fields and has a delicate pink flower, and ts called “sheep sorrel.” The economica#woman will educate her family to like soup. It is an excellent ap- petizer, and it is also filling. Then it helps to use up scraps and left over meats in a way that nothing else will. A “stock pot” will be a necessity. A porcelain-lined or granite ware will be the best. Mrs. Rorer, the authority, says to make stock twice a week, Tuesday and Saturday. being the best days, when the stove is hot for other things. Save all the bones from steak, carcasses of turkey, chicken, roasts and broils, and all the juices on the platters. Crack all the bones so that the marrow will be exposed. Haye an earthen ware crock to put them in if yeu kcep them two or three days and put them in a ¢ool place. When ready to make the stock, put all the bones and juice in the stock pot and cover with cold water. Let it come to a boil and simmer for three or four hours. Strain through a colender and put away in a crock to cool. When cool, lift off all the fat and put in the dripping can to fry cro- quettes in. To make the soup, lift out of the stock a pint or quart as you may need, and when it is heated put in the seasoning. One day it may be the tomatoes left from breakfast, with a little rice that was not eaten. Another day it may be potato cup, with some cold boiled potatoes cut into dice, and a cup of milk thickened with an egg added. Or it may be celery scup, with the cup of milk, thickened with tablespoonful of flour, or bean soup, using the cupful of beans left from dinner of the day before. Crackers are not necessary, as toasted bread is just as nice. Take ‘the stale bits of bread, cut them to a uniform size, never larger than half an inch square, and toast them a nice brown in the oven. Season the soup very carefully, and you will be surprised how much it ‘adds to a simple cinner to have a nice bowl of soup to begin on. Always turn the old liquid Into the simmering pot of new stock, and then it will never spoil. The stock should be kept in a cool place and well covered. Refinement in serving food, the use of pretty dishes and clean napery, having hot tood hot, and cold food cold, is the difter- ence between home cooking and boarding house cooking. The idea seems to prevail among boarding-house keepers that what boarders want is variety, and vari. given, often at the expense of quality, ways at the expense of proper preparation. The things that should be hot come to the table in a lukewarm condition, and ecld things are anything but cold in reality. In the whole bill of fare, there will pe not one single thing that is properly prepared, or perfectly served. A single chop, a ‘bet roll. and a cup of coffee, all perfect in their way and properly served, Willymake an angel of a crank, when a dozen H¥if-cooked dishes, served in a slovenly man®er, will simply drive one into a passion, t Prunes are laughed at as “boardipg house fruit,” and they have certainly been abused there, but after all, a well-cooked prune is a thing to desire. Buy gcod ones, to start with Wash them in tHtee or four waters, the last one being warm. Set them to soak in warm water for a few, moments, then put over the fire and let simmer for half an hour. Pour over each quart of tne frult a cupful of granulated sugar, and cook till the prunes extend, but;da not stir them. There should be a good deal of sirupy juice around them when they are done. When cool these prunes’ will be as fine as any preserve ever eaten, and they have splendid medicinal qualities. This is a nice way to cook ‘eggs’ ff one Is tired of all the old ways: Sepatate the whites from the yolks of as many eggs as you intend to serve: Beat the white to a firm froth, leaving the yolk in its shell. for convenience in handling, Put the-frothed white in the egg cup, leaving a little hole in the middle, into which dump the yolk unbroken. Put all the egg cups in a deep pan of boiling water, turn another pan over it and cook for three minutes. Just before serving drop a bit of butter, some salt and pepper on each egg. The woman who says she cannot exist without her cup of tea or coffee has no right to question the drunkard who Is a beast till he gets his toddy. More and more women are depending on the cup of coffee or tea, the invigorating quinine capsule and kindred tonics. The hurly burly of this got-to-get-there life needs coal for the engine, and if a woman chooses to burn up her vitality faster with nerve-destroying fuel, she probably thinks she has a right to, and it is true it is her own funeral, but 4s she not also defrauding posterity? Can the woman who is a tea flend or a quinine toper give the right kind of vitality to her children? If there is anything in heredity, may not her children inherit ‘her desire for “tonics” and want something stronger than tea or coffee? The proper thing for a wo- man to do, when she discovers that she is a slave to the coffee or tea habit, is to stop it-right short off. It is going to make a wreck of her nerves if she does not, just as surely as oplum or morphine makes wrecks of “‘dopers.” Not the same kind of wreck, but worse ones. Physicians say that they can have but little hope for pa- tients who are addicted to the tea or coffee habit, and that unrestricted use of these leads to terrible ills. “In fact, they often lead to the drink habit, or to morphine and opium, after they have lost their power over the victim, as they will in time. Colonial hanging cupboards made to fit into odd corners are quite fashionable now. They are not hard to make, if you will get along without the door. Two three-cor- nered shelves, and somebody to fasten them securely, one below the other, a foot or more apart, or you may have three, if you like. A pretty silk curtain to hang from the top one finishes the business. What shall be put upon them? Anything pretty you like, from china to Christmas books. SS GOWNS FOR SPRING. Materials in Vogue This Season and Hints as to Styles. From Harper's Bazar. The purchase of a gown this spring is more than ever a serious matter, and the slightest indecision of character may pro- duce serious results, such conflicting state- ments are made by the different dress- makers as to what the correct styles are. Plain taffetas are advocated by one, India silks by another, figured taffetas and figured Indias, peau de soie and gros grgin, etc. One of the smartest models is black satin with full skirt trimmed frof, waist to hem with milliners’ folds of th@ satin, and an Eton jacket also trimmed, with the folds and made with full vest white satin and gold embroidery. Only; artist should attempt such a gown, but {his par- ticular one had been designed byla@ artist, and was, in consequence, quite s. factory. A black-figured taffeta, made with skirt trimmed with very fine knife-pieated frills edged with narrow lace and bolerg fronts of Jet over a white guipure vest, was inother smart costume, and a model that shou!d be generally becoming. The latter gown was much lighter and cooler than the!satin, for the folds add considerably to tieiwe'ght, and satin in itself is a heavy material. Most charming and remarkably clfeap are some of the ready-made foularés.) Gowns in black and white and blue and! white, with skirts trimmed with blaék>velvet- edged juffies, and jaunty waists? with the same Style of rutile arranged in‘ Jatket ef- fect, can be had for as little as $38 and $30. In more expensive qualities, for $38 and $40, are some gowns that are most effective. The stripes and the checks in blue and white always look cool and refined, and, with girdle and collar of some brigat color, can be made extremely becoming. Skirts are certainly narrower. .From four and a half to five yards seems to be the popular width, and the crort breadth Is narrower, while the cireuiar sides ad the straight back breadths are quite lke old friends again. There is always danger in the circular sides of dra; sig thé material too far back, and this must be avoided, for while it is necessary. to’ have @ good fit | over the hips, there shonld_be.an easy lool not a strained, tight appearance. ‘THe ps en-gored skirt will not be tabgoed yet awhile; it 1s too becoming and smart, but. it is better suited to perfectly plain gowhs. Another point in its favor is that.it is more easily fitted than the newer styles, ~ BELTS AND BUCKLES Adjuncts to Women’s Wear That Will Be Popular. Girdles of Ribbon and Some Studded With Jewels—Buckles of Endless Variety. From Harper's Bazar, Belts and buckles are most important ad- juncts to women’s costumes in these days, and judging from the advance fashions for spring and summer will be more than ever popular. Certainly a handsome belt and buckle do add greatly to the beauty and finish of a waist, and the tiny buckles that are used on bows and rosettes are also an added ornament. Girdles have been in fashion for some time, but while they can no longer be classed amorg the novelties, they can and will be in style this season. All sorts and varieties of ribbon art used in their con- struction, but at present the black liberty satin is the most fashionable, as it can be drawn into shape much more easily than the stiffer materials, and it is still consid- ered necessary to have these girdles fit to perfection. Girdles look much better on slender, long-waisted women, but as it is the fashion, of course, short-waisted women must als> wear them. Clever dressmakers adopt many devices to make them becom- ing, some of which are very satisfactory. The straight-around look which gives width is obviated by having the girdle in a point just at the back and narrowed down at the side seams, and again in a point in front. Thea the lower front of the girdle is so arranged as to come below the waist- line in the front and back, and this is a marvelous improvement. ‘Another style has the girdle in front much lower than in the back, and again in the center of the back the ribbon is sometimes divided and turned under and only a rarrow line left at the waist. Sometimes the high point ts under the arms, and then there is a sharp bias effect with the ribbon stretched tight- ly down to the waist-line. When and where a broad girdle or bodice is becoming it can be arranged either in broad or narrow folds, and can be as wide as a quarter of a yard without in any way interfering with the lines of the figure. Some of the waists this winter have appeared to be all bodice, yards of ribbon or material wound round and round the figure. With the short jackets at present the craze, a line of helt or girdle bodice must show beneath at the back. This is hard to arrange for a short waist, but can be satis- factorily accomplished by having a bias belt and pulling it down on the skirt and fastening with a pretty pin. These same beit pins are most elaborate affairs, and are often set with jewels on a gold bar. For the benefit of those who do not own jewels are many pretty designs in gold and silver. ‘The folded bias belt is prettier than the fitted straight bodice, which has too stiff a look. On the very claborate tea gowns so fash- fonable at present the jeweled girdles are wondrous things. They do not fit tight, but are buckled locsely in front and hang down on the skirt almost to the feet. Fash- ion has set the stamp of her approval upon imitation jewels, and the passementeries and girdles, which would be worth a king’s ransom were the stones genuine, are most effective. Seed-pearls, rhinestones and bright-colored jewels are combined and present a most gorgeous appearance. An exceedingly simple gown—simple as to color, for there {s no simplicity In the heavy brocades, satins and laces that are used in the construction of the gowns—all of white, will have its only color in the stones on the girdle. With the velveteen shirt waists are worn the gold erd silver belts, with either plaia or jeweled buckles. These belts are almost invariatiy narrow, and in consequence more xenerally becoming. Even when a broad and elaborate buckle is worn it is attached to a narrow belt, but the buckles them- selves are works of art. The Russian enamel ores are superb and in endless variety; while in gold and silver, of beau- tiful workmanship, there is no end to the choice that can be had. Silver with tur- quoises is for the present the rage; and as gray gowns are to be the fashion, they will undoubtedly continue in favor. ‘Some- times with a satin girdle there will be a buckle ot silver studded with turauoise, or more often a band of silver passemen- terle studced with the blue stones will form the belt. On one of two velvet costumes made up recently there are to be seen broad jeweled belts. On a garnet velvet with short jacket the belt is of gold with rubles and tur- quoise, and the effect is good, and not garish and theatrical, as might be supposed, while with a green velvet blouse a narrow belt of gold studed with turquoise ts most charming. Peau de sole and the softer qualities of ribbon are not likely to go out of fashion for some time, and in the new girdles are greatly in favor, as they can be pulled through the buckle without creasing and looking mussed. The heavy harness belt to wear with shirt waists has again made its appearance, but fortunately 1s a trifle modified, as a finer grade of leather and a handsomer gold buckle is worn in preference to last year’s style, which was so emphatically a piece of harness. Russian enamel belts, made in separate pieces and of most artistic color, look well with all shirt waists. Both dark and light enamel is to be had, and the dif- ferent designs are manifold. These belts are not all cxpensive by any means, and are always smart looking, both on silk and crash waists. —_-> SLEEVES ARE SMALLE But All the Material Saved in Neces- sary for Raffles and Flounces. From Harper's Bazar. Sleeves may have been decreased in size, but the saving of material gained thereby is as naught compared to the extra amount called for by the ruffies and flounces we are to put on our su:nmer gcwns. Frills of lace, countless ruffles and ribbons galore are necessary adjuncts to all thin gowrs, and of coursé look most charming, but the extra expense must be taken in mind in ordering these fascinating ecstumes. The silk underdresses, howeve: are no longer considered indiapensable, and the colored lawns which are used instead do not cost nearly so much. An extremely smart muslin just finished for a southern trcusseau is of heliotrope organdie covered with bunches of mauve orchids. Ten small ruffles trim the bottom of the skirt; the waist, with a tight-fitted lawn Mning, is scft and loose, and has a broad yoke col- lar made with tucks, which go crossways. and are stitched down to within two inch: of the edge, where they stand out. A lace edging surrounds this colar, and a broad folded girdle and collar of heliotrope satin are the only bits of solid color on the gcwn. An all-white muslin, with entre- deux of Valenciennes and puffings, was a revival of a very old fashion, but looked novel and smart. Lace will be used more than ever on all the summer gowns, not only the imitation, but the real; and positively there seems no limit to the quantity that can be made use of, both black and white; the yelow- ish tinge, the real lace louk, will be as de- sirable as ever: but in these days of clever imitation it 1s quite possible to get almost the exact appearance in some of the imi- tation laces; still, the real can be bought at fairly reasonable prices, so, if possible, the real should be used. ——__-e-_ Must Be in Fashion. From Fliegende Blatter, FORTHE YOUNGFOLKS| IMPERIAL Pretty Spring Costumes and How to Make Them. COLORS AND MATERIALS See se Dresses Intended for Wear and Play. Outdoor DAINTY Se OME WRAPS Written Ex ively for The Evenii PRING OW ERS are not r than the costumes de- signed for the little people about 4 this time of the year. The children’s out- fitters a showing a bewildering array of wraps, gowns and hats made in t most bewitching s. These mod- els are simplicity it- self in construction and design: but the trimming is elaborate, Ny of the musiins and silke. Lace embroidery and ribbons are used in quanti- ties for frills and wools, soft challi muslins and lawns are equally popular for wraps and gowns: thin materials, over sik linings, are to be very much worn this son by the children as well as their elders. Green in all shades, frota vivid grass to silvery willow, is the favorite color; then Violet and brown, white, blue and pink are left fer the tiny tots under six. These Lenten days offer the mothers a good opportunity to settle the question of thelr children’s wardrobes and do up their sewing before the warm weather. A few hints as to the general styles for the ch Gren this season may not be amiss. First on the list comes the wraps neve sary for the cool days of early spring. ‘The reefer and its vari ms are the leading styles for the larger girls; the newest jacket is of marine blue, green, brown or scarlet smooth cloth, with tight-fitting back and loose front fastening with four large pearl buttons. A very full frill of Roman ribbon is quilled around the velvet sailor collar. The tiny tots’ long coats are nade of light- weight wool, pique or grass linen for every- ear, and China silk or dotted muslin ik for best. The girls’ coats have full skirts gathered to a shallow yoke, a deep round or pointed cape giving a touch of quaintness, while those for the boys have a short waist, pleated ekirt, cape and broad t, and are made of wool or pique heavily bra'ded. A dear little coat of pink China silk has @ pointed cape edged with a double friil of dotted net run with two rows of pink baby ribbon, To wear with it is a silk poke bon- net; a frill of the ribbon net is gathered from the crown, and there are pink bows and tle strings. A grass linen coat has a pink selisia lMning; a band of inserting ‘s wet above the hem of the skirt, ctrips of inserting and a ruffle of embroidery trim- ming the round flaring cape. A shirred sugar Icaf hat of linen with broad brim of embroidery and three jaunty pink bows aa A Pink Silk Coat. complete this serviceable and dainty cos- tume. For play the little gingham and Galatea gowns are gathered to a band, so they will fit easily over the shoulders and have puff sleeves and white guimp. The only change in the thin dresses lies in the sleeves; the puff is srraller and ornamented with two- inch frills edged with lace. A Willow Green Gown. A pretty gown has just been finished for a little auburn haired girl—a gown of wil- low green wool flecked with brown and white. The front is pleated from the neck, while the back has a short waist and pleat- ed skirt. The puffed sleeves have a shoul- der cape and cuffs of coarse lace lined with silk, a shell quilling of ribbon ending in loops giving a pretty finish to the canes. A short jacket with lace trimmed collar and a hat of loosely braided green straw wreathed in half-open daisies make as dainty a spring outfit as a little maid could wish. Flowered Chalilic. Another pretty gown is dark blue chailie, sprinkled with tiny pink roses and green leaves. Two rows of pink velvet ribbon trim the skirt and shoulder ruffle, and there Is a velvet belt and bridle. This is very popular model for girls from six to nine, and may be made in any material. A stylish little suit is of fine marine blue serge. The skirt has a border of two-inch black grosgrain ribbon and three rows of narrow white braid above the hem; the Eton jacket ties with a broad black rib- HAIR No matter what t condition of your HAIR streaky, BU RAY i can be minds beautiful, glossy and matural by one app cation of Imperial Hair Regenerator. It ts atom ‘Trace Mark, durability No. 1—Bla Xo. 2 Dark “Tro do. 3—Medium No. 4 Imperial Chemica! Mfg In Washington, sold by ALAIS ROYAL. APPLICATIONS MADE AT MARLT at PARLORS, 1110 G ST. NW ROUGH bon and the sailor ¢ ribbon and braid. with whie The green Flowered Challic. shirt w studs, a t is made with a t collar and tur ad pl ‘or dress occasions the is China sik. ther flowe: « in white or grounds of dull green, rose or blue. An old rose, with pin dots of white is made with a yoke and puffed waist skirt lai. in large pleats. The yoke MEM. China sink. a trimming of plain rose silk and lace and there is a frill of lace down the sleeves. A green silk flowered with tiny blue for- get-me-nots is trimmed with folds of green velvet, lace and rosettes of blue and green ribbon. The hat is green straw, with bunches of forget-me-nots tied with bows set around the brim. NESE TRAINING AND DISCIPLINE. Elements in the Physical lopment of a Child. From Harper's Bazar. After a child is a year old the measures to be adopted for the prevention of dis- ease and the preservation of uniformly good health can no longer be given in sim- ple and universal rules. A young infant is an unreasoning animal, and with it the Physical conditions alone need to be con- sidered. Its food is simple and simply ad- ministered; and beyond the general desire for physical comfort and satisfaction, it expresses no preferences and conveys no criticism of our methods. But after it is a year old a child begins the differentiation toward a more compli- cated existence. After that age a child is no longer an animated stomach. It has al- ready found its hands and learned that they can clutch and grasp; it has discov- ered its feet, and is fast learning the art of locemotion; it has become an apt pupil in the lesson of language, that instrument of all intellectual progress. It has form lated the ego; and after the knowledge that “I am” is orce defined it soo celves the second lesson of Within a short time the “I want” is fol ed by an ‘I ought,” and with this conceptiin the triple development physical, mental and moral natures pro- gress. Nor in any consideration of child- hood, from whatever standpoint, can these three simultaneous and interdependent lines of deveiopment be separately con- sidered. If we discuss intellectual educa- tion, we find its success ever dependent upon the physigal condition, and incapable of the highest attainment except in the presence of a normal moral sense. If we consider mora’ development, we find it in- extricably complicated with that of the in- tellectual and physical nature: So in considering, as we at present aim te do, the measures that must be taken dur- ing childhood for the preservation of the best hea:th and the practical elimination of infantile diseases, we find it impossible to consider the physical alone, but, even at the risk of seeming superficial, must touch, at least in many points, upon the mental ard moral training of the child. Its physical health is always dependent upon proper mental and moral training. Every Physician, for instance, encounters in his practice among children cases of illness which terminete fatally simply because the child is so willful and undisciplined that his struggles against the prescribed and necessary course of treatment turn to the fatal issue the evenly balanced scales in which are weighed the alternatives of life and death. So the chronic habit of dis- obedience or deceit on the part of the child may neutralize the parents’ best efforts for its physical improvement. And fretful- ness, generally a result of disease, is not infrequently, when it becomes a fixed habit, also one of the causes of illness, or at least of chronic ill health. Any discus- sion, therefore, which deals solely with the physical precautions for the prevention of disease must be absolutely inadequate. To obtain the desired result it is necessary to touch upon mental education and moral training, at least as far as they are in- volved in home discipline and upon amuse- ments, wan! w= last of the tives contest her will?” Wyld—“They claim she was unduly in- fluenced by her husband.” Mack—“They couldn't have known her very well.”