Evening Star Newspaper, January 16, 1897, Page 20

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JANUARY 16, 1897-24 PAGES. IN THE CASINO AT MONTE CARLO. AT MONTE CARLO A Woman’s Description of the Gowns Seen at This Resort. SAD SPECTACLE OF HUMAN WEAKNESS Fie Toilets Display Gambling Halls. in the CHRONIC GAMBLERS —> spondence of The Evening Star. DID NOT EXPECT to find all the beauty and nobility of Eu- rope at Monte Carlo, nor yet to get a snap shot at despair on the verge of suicide; but still the utter com- monplace that was everything I saw at first was a disap- pointment. The shop- worn lock of the peo- ple at the roulette tables was the more Monaco’s palm gar- terraces had proved quite as paradaisical in fact as in the French novel. So it was with the great halls of the Casino, with their magnificent proportions and sumptuous decorations. These were equal to the most hysterical of the many descriptions, and deserved quite another set of inhabitants than the rusty men and tired, elderly women who sat at the long tables making their stakes at the monotonous call, “Faites vos jeu, mes- "’ with the dull patience of plodding y. There was no more romance about these gamblers, chronics who play all day long making smail gains and losses on @ small capital, than about wrinkled ballet dancers cast for nymphs and fairies. This was early in the evening. People who have money were still at dinner. Later, €S grew better, from the spec- tacular standpoint. The great hotels, the restaurants and the evening trains by 9 o'clock had emptied their crowds into the majestic salle des fetes, and men and wo- distressing dens, fountains and men of more sleek and prosperous look were promenading by twos and threes cr drifting into the reading rooms of the salles de jeu. The fossils were thrown into shadow, but the assemblage remained a curiously mixed one as to its clothes. There were men in evening dress and men In traveling costume. There were wo- men in rich velvets and with bare, white shoulders, end women in tailor gowns. There would be great emeralds glinting from the blonde hair of one’s neighbor on the right, while one’s left-hand neighbor kept her locks covered under a big hat h plumes. Demi-tollet or theater dress was the most usual, but no manner of chess could be said to prevail. A majority of the women dressed well, a few over- dressed, some were clothed sumptuously. Women as Gamblers. Women almost outnumbered men at the roulette tables, where the stakes may be low. Men had four out of five seats at et quarante, where they mus: be The most interesting woman I saw < wo near the tables the entire eve re fascinating business hand. She sat on a couch he light was shaded, en- wag desperate filriation. Her part- n military look, young and The girl Piquant in face and knew now to maneuver her hat plumes. She wore a simple bat uncommon- fresh and effective dress of powder-blue Kk with plain skirt and blouse bodice, yoke of exquisite lace and triple collar of three shades of rose velvet. This collar took the form skeleton jacket, i three folds upon the shoulders tapering in front unt just a line reached the waist en either side. Disappearing under the narrow belt of draped velvet, the Jacket skeleton reappeared in three tails which lay against the skirt about the hips, giving a fullness to the figure in that region. rban hat of rose velvet wa: trimmed with rosettes of lace and swee ing Now the girl would bob her } nat the long feathers darted down touch her cheek, and now she would give a quick turn to the side to make them brush in turn tue face of her compa: Pret sport than roulette, but just as dangerous, maybe. Even when things were at their live liest some tables were comparatively emp- ty, while people w three deep about others. one of the crowded tables a ispicuous figure was a tall woman who motionless, as if she neither saw the coins nor heard the clink of piece the croupiers raked them ot removed her wrap, and her loak regal of old rose velvet swept floor and made a blot of rich color in the throng. Its broad collar of ermine fell low her shoulders and turned back from open front in revers to show a vest of velvet of a darker rose shade. The ne crossel at the waist, that shoulder reaching in a well down on the left side. ves had deep ermine cuffs mine nearly a foot in ¢ and stiffness to the hem. of lace came up to the ‘ r r and framed her pale dark face, which was and expressionless, were either bored or waiting. Playing a System. At the same table and watching the roll of the ball with the open interest of nov- ices sat two quite young women. Each had pencil and 5 for the jotting down of numbers gs n some amateurish effort to play a system. The prettier of the two was a curly headed blonde in a dress of fine violet cloth, with blouse of white-em- broidered chiffon. Over the blouse was an odd little figaro of violet silk, cut up in points in front and edged with an em- broidery of pearls. Epaulettes from the figaro came over the sleeves, which were close fitting affairs of violet and pale pink brocade. Heavy ruches of lisse, threaded With narrow velvet ribbons, finished neck and wrists, and at the waist was a broad, folded belt of violet and pink ribbon. The second player, who was a little ner- Yous over her losses, could not have been above twenty. She was gowned in creamy brown cloth of a very delicate tone. Her blouse of soft yellow silk showed under the square-cornered jacket of the skirt material, which turned back in front in sqfeare revers faced with brown silk and ornamented with lace rosettes set on like big buttons. Handkerchiefs of lace came from under the flat collar and fell over the bosom. The belt and standing collar had huge lace rosettes for decorations. Be- hind the two young women, not playing, but observing their play, a handsome man of thirty or. thereabouts loltered till they should have done. A beautiful Russian, beautiful at least in the evening, passed from table to table, a caval'er at either hand. She was not young, but her figure was at its best, and she used her rouge with the skill of an artist. She was in evening dress and very richly robed. Her skirt was of pale green velvet with a panel in front of white span- gled tulle. This panel was bordered with sable fur. A low tulle bodice showed un- der a bolero of dark green satin brocaded with white and gold. Very large brocade epaulettes fell over short puffed velvet sleeves. Epaulettes and bolero were edged with sable. A ruche of black lace and fur headed the bodice to complete the square | cut of the decolletage. There was a point- ed belt of black velvet embroidered with pearls. The lady wore pearls at her throat and pearls in her hair. She had strolled into the salles de jeu from the opera, given in the same building as one of the Casino's attractions. So I fancy had most of the other women who were in full dress array. Some of the Costumes. A pretty pink frock was one of the most noticeable. It was of a soft silk that hung the better for the four ruffles with which the skirt was trimmed. They were very full ruffles edged with black velvet. The lew bodice was finished with a scarf of white tulle draped about the shoulders like a bertha. Three ruffles of the silk fell from below the bertha, making wide shoul- der epaulettes, but narrowing in front under a bow of pink ribbon on the bosom. Long white gloves and a white fan were dainty accessor A woman who won quite steadily though not largely for the time I stood behind her ; tefully dressed than almost one else I saw. She had a skirt of ver gray silk brocaded with black, and with long sash end of black ribbon. She wore a draped bodice of black velvet with | brocade sleeves. The sleeve epaulettes came down to form narrow bolero fronts edged with lace. A wide and exquisite lace made a flaring collar. Most of the women were good losers. | And they needed to be. for they practiced saying good-bye to their five franc pieces every time the ball went round. I heard} ene woman say that she had played three evenings. The first night she lost 50 francs, the second 250 francs, the third 750. This seemed to have satisfied her, for she took no seat while I was in her neighborhood. She had not so much as left her muff in the cloak room, but stood holding it in a pretty red brown dress with square figaro | Jacket from which two flaring collars of ruby velvet came up above her ears. A fichu of lace showed under the figaro, and the skirt was trimmed with black silk braid. I meant to say something about the men. But after all it was the scene that was of interest, and not the individuals; the crowd, made up of all sorts and conditions of people, under the brilliant lights and in those magnificent halls, bent upon the etchedest business human wit has de- ed. For me I liked it better out in the moonlight within sound of the sea. ELLEN OSBORN. —_—.__. A Work of Wonder. A POSTER IDYL. From Printers’ Ink. There came to me an artist of the Aubrey Beards- ley brand, A man whose reputation had resounded through the land. His advertising posters bad secured for him renown, And bis multi-colored efforts had critie’s crown. He said that, if I wished it, he would make me a received the design: A business ad that surely would all other ones out- shine. His price—five hundred dollars—seemed a little steep, ‘tly true, But I gave bim the commission, and here's what the fellow drew: A violet young lady with bright vermillion hair Upon a black and yellow wheel sut with a vacant stare. Some gray and purple foliage was growing on her right From pink and orange branches of a tree most cy white f red and saffron stood in an amber field, Where crimson grass was partly by an azure fence concealed. Some dark brown clouds were fleeting with gold ‘ones in the sky, And birds of lemon plumage were soaring up on high. it was a work of wonder, there's no question about that. For connoisseu-s came often to the artist's charm- } tng fiat, And they Wondered at the drawing, so artistic in | the touen, | And they wondered at the colors—said they never had seen such? And they wondered at the blending, at the weird conception grand, And at a lot of other things Lcouldn’t understand, On, But I did my little wondering, as you may have surmised — I wondered what the people thought that poster advertised! Se CC OS See Advocates It Indirectly. From tre Chicago Post. She had been thoughtful for a minute, and Chelly was trying to think of some- thing that would be interesting to her and j; at the same time again bring her to his level where no one thinks. “The greatest advo frage,” she said at last, “i She paused and looked at him, as if en- deavoring to gain inspiration, which she evidently got. “—is the man who disgusts all women with his sex and thetrs,” she went on, “by talking about his ‘lady friend. Thereupon Cholly started at once for the | club to narrate the details of the affair to the steward, and ask him if, in his opin- jon, anything personal was intended. —ce+- Only Two Faults, From Tid-Bits. iow that you have bought and paid for the horse,” said the man, with a self-satis- fied chuckle, “I want to tell you in confi- dence that he has only got two faults.” “Well, what are they?” “When he is in the field he is very dimf- cult to catch.” “Oh, I don’t mind that; I'l soon catch him. What is the other fault?” hy, when you have caught him he is not worth anything.” + o+—____ A Hint. From Up-to-Date. “I wonder what's de best t’ing ter tell dem so’s I'll get a meal,” remarked Towit Twoey, the tramp, as he walked toward the kitchen door. A piece <u that was lying near overheard the remark and said, musically: “Just tell them that you saw me.’ HOUSEHOLD HINTS Some people who are fond of fish, and who prefer to make sure that they are fresh and buy them alive, still do not buy them as often as they would like because the scaling or skinning is such hard work. A pot of boiling water into which to thrust the fish, just as you would a chicken, will make the scales come off almost of them- selves. This is the proper method also of skinning catfish and others of the same kind. Scalding helps immensely in either instance. “Cooked celery" is a dish that is not very much known, but it is, nevertheless, very tempting when properly prepared. One way to fix it is to cut nice tender celery into fine bits. say a cupful of the celery to a pint of milk. Put the celery to cook in just enough water to cover it, and let it simmer almost dry, then, when tender, put the milk over it, having made it hot first, and stir in a tablespoonful of butter, into which kas been worked smoothly a tea- specnful of flour. Stir all the time till the flour is cooked. Salt and serve hot. It wears off the plate on washed silver to be always scouring it. A better way io keep it bright is to wash it in hot water, well soaped, with a pinch of borax in it; then rinse, and after drying rub briskly with a thick chamois cloth. Never permit a bit of rubber to lie near your silver, for it will discolor it almost past redemption. A pretty present to a little girl whom you wish to become industrious with knit- ting or crochet needles is the German “wonder ball.” Bright yarn or zephyr is chosen, such as will make a pretty fasci- nator or mittens or wristers. To start the ball, roll a cute little handkerchief into a wad and wind the yarn about it, or you may take a greenback or a pocket book or any tiny toy. Then in different layers of the yarn put a necktie, a pair of gloves, a bit of lace or anything in the line of pres- ents that you can cover with yarn. After each present is covered fasten the yarn at that point, and then proceed to wind over the next present. The ball may be as large as a pail when you get through, if you like. Stipulate that the recipient is only to unwind the yarn as fast as she knits it up, and you wiil see how fast small fingers will fly through the stint, sc as to reach the present beneath. Always remember to heat a new stove and new iron ware very gently the first half dozen times of using, as sudden heat- ing, until the ware is thoroughly tempered, is apt to result in unseemly cracks. Black cashmere will wash like muslin, even the cheaper grades. Make a strong suds of hot water and good soap, and wash the cashmere by rubbing between the hands. Be careful to get out all the grease spots. Rinse in water made almost black with bluing, and iron on the wrong side with a pretty hot iron while the goods is quite damp. Be sure not to stretch the goods out of shape in ironing, and make up with new linings, to get the best re- sults. A dainty perfume for linen closets and bureau drawers is made of one ounce each of cedar, rhubarb and cloves, pulverized and mixed. Put the powder in large, loose bags, lined with wadding, over which the powder is spread. To take ink trom wood, apply a few drops of niter with a feather, first putting in a teaspoon or more of water. The ink will disappear almost instantly. ‘Then rub with a damp rag to keep the spot from turning white. If It does so turn, apply oll, tur- pentine, or coal oil, and polish with a dry flannel ‘cloth. It is a bad policy to use water on a hard- wood polished floor. It does not take up the dirt and dust as-well as a cloth damp- ened with coal oil, and is apt to leave the floor streaked. A flannel cloth is always best for cleaning woodwork, whether oil or water is used. Cranberry sauce, in the hands of the average cook, is a thing to shun. Yet, properly seasoned, there is nothing more palatable. Pick over and wash the ber- ries. Put them over the fire in cold water and let them come to the boiling point, then throw into each quart of berries a heaping teaspoonful of baking soda. It will foam up at a furious rate for a mo- ment, then set on the back of the stove for five minutes to simmer. Turn the mass into a colander and dash cold water over, as the soda water runs off, then put back in the kettle with enough water to cover well and put in sugar, almost as much sugar as berries, and cook gently till done. Don't stir and mush the berries, but let each stand by itself, when cold. When the cream gives out, well-beaten yolk of an egg will take its place for some. Let it stand beside the pourer’s plate, in a dainty oup, and dip up with a silver spoon. The French are fonder of it with coffee than of cream. Cream in coffee is very bad for those who suffer from indigestion. ——.__ The New Pin Cushion. From Harper's Bazar. New fads in fancy work are the delight of every woman, particularly at this time of the year, when in many instances it is desired to give a piece of one's own handi- work instead of some gift bought from the shops. Bags and pin cushions are always useful, and now there are the prettiest pos- sible pincushions to be made up out of old bits of brocade and, ribbon and gold or silver cord, which need only taste in the choosing of the colors to combine and dain- ty stitches to be exceedingly pretty. Rather in the shape of tomatoes are the Princess of Teck cushions—so called, it is said, because the princess was the first to make them. They are made of several pieces of material joined very neatly to- gether like patchwork, and they must not measure more than a hand’s breadth in circumference. At every place where they are joined together they are tied tightly down with a strong linen thread, and just in the middle the bottom and top are drawn quite together, so there is the deep hole in the center. This is difficult to do, and only the strongest linen thread will make it pos- sible. Around the outside, half-way down, there must again be an indentation, and each and every indentation must be coy- ered with a gold or silver cord. It 1s quite surprising what charming re- sults can be gotten with the combining of handsome bits of brocade and the careful stuffing of the cushion. Bran is the best of anything for this purpose, as cotton ts too hard. It is supposed to be necessary to every well-appointed dressing table to have four or five of these little oushions, into which the little stick pins are put,.or hat pins, or the new brooches. So many pins are indtspensable now that it is much more desirable to have a different cushion for each kind, mary ter these fill the re- quired needs, a Same time are pret- ty in themselves. als MEMORY TESTS Result of. Experitaents Made in the ‘Washingjon ‘Public Schools, 102 1,000 CHILDREN, “WHITE AND BLACK Interesting Comparison of the Ne- gro and: thee White Race. SIGHT AND HEARING Written for The Evening Star. IVE HUNDRED white and’ five hun- dred folack children ot the Washington public schools have had their minds compared by a: se- ries of interesting experiments, made by George R. Stet- son, an investigacor of this city. It has always -been taken for granted that the white man’s intel- lect was superior to that of his black brother, but there have been no definite figures. Mr. Stetson’s experiments were made partly by himself and partly through two specialists. The one thousand children ex- amined were of the fourth and fifth grades of the public schools. Doubtless the most interesting part of the investigation, that made by Mr. Stetson in person, was made in order to compare the memories of the whites and blacks. The average age of the five hundred white children examined was eleven years. The eldest white child was eleven years and the youngest eight. ‘The average age of the blacks was 12.57 years, the eldest being eighteen and the youngest eight. Mr. Stetson's processes were purely orig- inal, since, as he says, no one had made such studies before to set him an example. In each school room visited he had gath- ered before him from twenty to forty chil- dren. He never appeared before a greater number than forty at a time. Of these he would ask undivided attention. Having obtained this, he would recite to the class one of four simple verses, written for chil- dren by Eugene Field. Having recited the verse, he explained all of the difficult words. The class was next required to re- cite the same verse in concert, twice re- eating. Each child was afterward re- ceived by Mr. Stetson in private, and was asked to repeat his individual recollection of the verse. The degree of each subject's proficiency was marked according to the merit system in vogue in the Washington public schools. “E indicated excelleat, or 100; “G," good, or “BF,” fair, or 50; “P,” poor, or 25, The verses employed were as follows: L me my bow,”’ sald, Robin Hood, row give'to me, a “tis shét, mark thou that spot, For there my grave shall be." bak. knew all ithe pirds that came ie in oar orchird trees; jowe “One night a tiny dew Into the bosom pf Dear little jee well, here ‘th¥ sweet’ repose.” "? >: aN. “My shepherd ts the Lom my God. ‘There is wo wan L know His flock He leady in verdant meads Where tranquil “Wwaters® flow.”” Mr. Stetson rotes upon these tests some remarkably interesting figures. In their averages of memor¥i retention the blacks excelled the whites 1 all of the tests, ex- cept with the last number. For the first verse the blacks ha@ a general average uf & whites, 62.54; second verse, blacks, > Whites, 58.92; third verse, blacks, 64; whites, 54.54; fourth verse, blacks, ; whites, 42.14. The total averages show that the blacks exceeded the whites b per cent, that of the former being 7 and of the latter 58.09. Mr. Stetson considers this close corre- spondence in the memory rank of each race to be remarkable, and says that it was unexpected. If there is any truth in the theory that voluntary or controlled at- tention, distinctive from spontaneous at- tention, is a result of civilization, then, in Mr. Stetson’s opinion, there is an’ apparent equality of development in the two races which he examined. The School Records. Mr. Stetson has looked up the records of scholarship for the children of both colors, and has compared them with their memory averages. H2 has found a close correspondence in thé two. The average obtained by the blacks in studies was 64.73, that by the whites 74.52. In making these comparisons he says allowance must be made for excessive or insufficient mark- ings on the part of the different teacl on the one hand, and for the childrei’s fear of embarrassment, caused by reciting to a stranger, on the other. Mr. Stetson says he is convinced that if the study and memory markings were made by the one person they would correspond still more closely. In his epinion it is possible to determine by such a memory test the capacity of the teacher to instruct, as well as that of the pupil to acquire.’ Memory, says he, depends vpon the habit of attention, and inte.ligence is proportionate to this habit. From Hs experience with the blacks an whites, and from the results of this exam- ination, Mr. Stetson derives the impression that there is an enfeeblement of the mem- ory of both races. This enfeeblement of the memory is accompanied in both races by a parallel decline in the powers of sight snd hearing, and is apparently due to ne- glect in training the attention and of com- pulscry exercise of the memory. It is aiso due, in his opinion, to a too complex and overloaded school curriculum. Althot gh the memory rank of the blacks exceeded their rank in studies much more than did that of the whites exceed their study rauk, yet the blacks appeared to be inferior in intellect. This was shown by the average ages at which the grades were attained by both races. The blacks reached the fourth grade at the average age of twelve years, and the fifth at 13.14 years. The whites reached the fourth grade at the average age of 10.63 years, and the fifth at 11.4. The difference in favor of the whites, therefore, is 1.37 years in the fourth, and of 1.74 years in the fifth grade. Some Defects Pointed Out. Mr. Stetson found’in both races a better knowledge of the signs or symbols used than of the fhingd signified. In other words, sentences could be learned and re- cited parrot-fashion without any apprecia- tion of their ‘fneaifing. “In both races,” says Mr. Stetsgn, “there is a too great re- liance on exterior #{ds, and a neglect,’ de- ficiency, or failure in habits of thought or the ability to think elearly, which makes it difficult for thegbild to use its own natural mental gifts, and which ultimately results in a loss of brain power, and an inability to assimilate 6r td°Getermine the general prir ciples to bm derived from the great va- riety of particular: knowledge presented in our school curriculyms. The same chjjdrep-were used in an addi- tional study of the_relative senges of sight and hearing, Phesg fests were made under Mr. Stetson’s*tireéfion by Dr. E. Oliver Belt, opthamologist, and Dr. Johnson Eliot, otologist. The tests of vision were made with charts and typographic scales, con- taining serles of letters of different’ sizes. The tests of hearlng were made with the Watch or trning fork. Eye and Ear Detects. Of the 1,000 eyes of the whites, Mr. Stet- son says 16.6 per cent were below normal, 7.2 per cent were defective or very defec- tive. Of the 1,000 ears of the whites 19.5 per cent had hearing below normal, 4.9 per cent being classed as defective and very defective. Of the 1,000 eyes of the blacks 20.6 per cent were below normal in powers of vision, 7.8 per cent being defective and very defective. Of the 1,000 ears of the blacks 19.8 had hearing below normal and £2 were defective or very defective. Take: together the defects of vision were foun to be 3.46 greater in the blacks. The de fects of hearing were about equal in both races. There appeared to be very little difference in the general acuteness of either the right or left side, as far as either the ear or eye was concerned. Dividing both races acording to sex, it is found that the greater perceatage of defective eyes in both races is found in the white females. In the whites the female eye and ear are both the more defective. while in the blacks the female has the more defective eye and the male the more defective ear. On the whole the eyes of both races and both sexes were found to be better than the ears. Mr. Stetson censiders the averages for both eye and ear defects in the W ing- ton children to be comparatively low. This may be accounted for by the fact that Washington school rooms are well lighted and well ventilated, while here, says he, the homes of the poorer classes are su- perior to most cities of like population in hygienic condition. In this city, he says, the number of study hours is less and the number of exercise hours greater than in England, France or Germany. In Berlin, for instance, public school children must attend schooi 1,472 hours per year, while in Washington they need attend only 900 hours per year. A much greater percent- age of pupils have been found with defec- tive vision both in English schools and those of this country than here in this city. Of 1,400 white children examined in England and America as many as 35.12 per cent were found with eyesight below nor- mal. This average is over 14 per cent greater than the average for the 1,000 eyes of the blacks tested in this city, which were more defective than those of the whites of Washington. ——— EVENING DRESS PROBLEMS Some of the Latest Decrees Issued by Dame Fashion. Nearly All the Summer Goods Are Figured—Imitation Pearls Used in Beaded Trimmin: (Copyright, 1807, by the Bacheller Syndicate.) Aside from its use as a robe for the so- clety novitiate, white is extremely fashion- able for all sorts of evening dresses. It is not so very long since Miss Virginia Fair appeared at a reception of her compeers in white satin relieved by brilliant red roses, for red is also very much in favor for ball room wear. Garlands of red roses are used as the apparent support for those bod- ices that stop under the arms, of which, by the way, there are rot so many this season as last. Not that she society girl has gone back to the old fashion of breaking the line of beauty from the ear to the tip of the shoulder, but the decolletage is simply made higher. A dress can be made 80 as almost to conceal the collar bone and yet at the same time reveal the slope of the shoulders—that is, if they do not slope too much. ‘An ingenious device which I have seen used by a thin damsel to cover up that ob- jectionable collar bone was a band of pear! strands put on in the form of a necklace. Instead of being clasped tight around the neck, this necklace was fastened to the gown at the tip of each shoulder and stretched tight across. Any one who cares to try the experiment to sce whether such a necklace would be of service, may take a stout string or a ribbon about an inch wide, and fastening the ends together, slip it over the head and stretch it tight from shoulder to shoulder. Bands cf six pearl strands caught to- gether at intervals with a gold mounted miniature are very fashionable now, and they will be found extremely useful as well as ornamental for the purpose just mentioned. Of course they are not real pearls, but in this day of barbaric gems in colored glass what matters that? A greai many such necklaces were utilized as Christmas presents, and the happy recip- fents have been wearing them around the collars of their tailor-made gowns, but in this new capacity they will be found more useful than ever. The low shoulder ts still preferred to the square neck, especially for young girls, be- cause it is more modest and usually more becoming. Sleeves Still Worn. Sleeves have not yet vanished from the evening gown. They generally consist of small puffs trimmed with whatever orna- mentation has been used on the remainder of the dress. An evening dress of light blue mousseline which {s trimmed with rows of black velvet ribbon has its sleeve puffs finished with a ribbon-trimmed flounce that passes around the arm at the lower edge of the puff and then runs up double on the outside of the sleeve. This dress has five rows of half-inch black vel- vet around the bottom of the skirt with three rows of two bands each set on at in- tervals of eight inches running around the skirt above. There is a girdle of six rows of ribbon fastened a little to the left side with two large velvet rosettes. The bodice is trimmed with bands running around in a similar manner, and a wreath of flowers relieves the plainness of the square neck. Nothing is more distinctive of the sea- son’s fashions in evening gowns than the extravagant use of flowers as trimming. One is perfectly safe in putting a floral touch upon any gown no matter what other trimming may have been used. Flowers are especially popular in combination with tulle or white satin. Plain white satin is considered too old for a debutante, but when it is veiled with tulle or mousseline it 1s in high favor. White taffeta silk may take its place as lining to advantage, and Is used with about From Life. ‘PURITY STRENGTH PERFECTION It does the work just right every time. That’s why all the leading teachers of cookery use and recom- mend it. equal frequency. One of the daintiest ball gowns I have seen is white tulle over taf- feta made with a slightly full blouse held in place by a wide white satin belt. From the belt started a garland of pink roses with foliage, which ran down the lefi side to nearly the bottom, where it separated in a V shape and ran to the front and to the back of the skirt. Bunches of roses were set on at intervals near the bottom of the right side to “balance” the wreath at the left. The low baby waist had a gar- land of roses around it and the butterfly puffs which form the sleeves are caught up with small bunches of roses. The newly imported brocades are heavy and soft, and the patterns are marvels of the weaver'’s art. A design of flowers and feathers on a faint heliotrope ground is ex- quisite. No wonder that the dealer makes the first importation $7.50 per yard, for there are plenty of women that will pay It in order to have something unique. There is a great deal of gold and silver tinsel used in the new designs. A pearl white with a woven design in the same | i {tint has bunches of great golden daisies that would make a gorgeous combination with rich velvet. There is a silver pattern just like it, but these are the only two. They are marked $7 a yard. Of course no ordinary woman in her right mind would think of purchasing such silks as these, however; they only serve to point which way the styles are turning. About Summer Goods. Nearly all the summer goods are figured. The new India silks are very tempting. The same silhouette patterns that were so popular last fall appear in the spring de- sign. White tulips with white leaves on a navy blue background is one of the pret- tiest. Figured surahs in fine, strong twills are very attractive and will make service- able spring and summer dresses. Challies have teen made to imitate the silhouette India silk so closely that many people object to the silk for that reason. Berege will surely be in high favor and will doubtless supersede the grass linens of last summer. It is a silk and wool ma terial that is as sheer as grenadine ai mvch lighter, and the new designs have dainty little’ all-over patterns of flower sprays. Pearls will lead other imitation gems in the beaded trimmings. They are made es- pecially beautiful for trimming evening drecses. The material upon which they are fastened is of the finest gauze, which yet has considerable dressing in it. The girl who can afford it wears a string of large pearls around her arm to suppert her long gloves. A pearl coronet is In much better taste for a young lady than one set with diamonds. The newest is the Marie Antoinette style, that is slignt- ly heart shaped with a point at the fore. head—such a headdress as Hero is now wearing in “Much Ado About Nothing.” Any woman of taste and deftness can easily make herself a stylish and becom- ing headdress if she is willing to take the trouble. The simplest ornament is an ai- grette with a tiny ruche of ribbon to keep it in place. This ruche is made on a wire, so that it may be bent to fit the head, and is usually worn like a coronet, with the aigrette standing up in the center. ‘A tall girl should avoid the aigrette, as it increases her apparent height, and should use instead a steel ornament soft- | ened with a frill of lace standing up ie- hind it. ‘A couple of soft Wales tips caught with a chou of tulle is a very effective head- dress. Something of the kind can hardly be dispensed with, but even a few loops of ribbon will satisfy the requirements. The debutante should wear ribbon or aigrettes, as feathers are for her mother and her older sisters, who have earned the right to flaunt plumes. ONE MORE PROOF. | takes, From the Chicago Evening Post. + The young man was a trifle ill at ease when he finally got into the office of the manager of the roof garden, but he en- deavored not to show it. suppose,” he said, hesitatingly, “that you are always on the lookout for attr: tions?” ys,” returned the manager, but there was something in his voice and man- ner that seemed to indicate that the young man could give him much valuable infor- said the young man, gaining a little assurance, “I want you to understand at the beginning that I have no desire to go on the stage myself, although I would not object to making a few thousand dol- lars out of my ideas.” “We don’t do much in the way of me- chanical plays now,” suggested the man- ager. “No one cares anything about mechanical plays now, anyway,” returned the young man. “Suggestive sensationalism is what rather than mechanical ingenutty, as exemplitied by a real railroad train upon the stage or something else in that line.” The manager looked surprised. “My boy,” he said, “you don’t look like a big gun, but you unquestionably hav at future before you in the profession Sit down and tell me about your ou written a play with a Zetter than that,” replied the young s he pulled a newspaper from his and pointed to an article in it. s that the real Garden of Eden ast been found. “But we can’t bring that to the root gar den,” protested the manager. “It wouldn't attract much attention if you could,” answered the young man. “But a paragraph lke that ought to give you an excuse for exhibiting Eve ‘au naturel,’ as they say on bills of fare The manager grasped the young man’s hand and shook it warmly. “You understand the theory of this busi- ness better than any man T have run across in the whole course of my professional ca- reer,” he said. “I need an assistant man- ager who knows the kind of an attraction that draws in this highly moral age., Name your own terms and consider the job as yours.” An Awkward Mi: From the Cleveland Plain Dealer. “I don’t like to ride my bicycle now,” the fair young girl, “because of the wind.” The young man slightly blushed. “Co—couldn’t you use strips of lead or something?” he stammered. “Strips of lead for what?” ke. The young man blushed again. The room seemed painfully hot. “Why, in the hem of your sk—skirt: stuttered. “My skirts?” echoed the tall beauty. not talking about my skirts. It's my frizzes that the wind blows out.” And the youth went forth into the cool night and butted his head against the first, lamp post. coo | Information Came Too Late. From Judy. Clergyman—“Yes, head is numbered. Irrepressible Joker—“You don't sa I wish I'd known that ten years ago, when I lost my hair; if I'd only known those numbers, I might have got it back again.” every hair of your sol