Evening Star Newspaper, January 9, 1897, Page 19

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COSTUMES ON THE PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS. FASHIONS IN NICE What is Worn at This Famous Euro- pean Winter Resort. es COLOR THE PREDOMINATING FEATURE Se Description of Some of the More Striking, Costumes. BHORT GLOVES WORN Jonce of The Evening Star. NICE, France, December 31, 1896. ROM 2 O'CLOCK IN Re afternoon until 3:30 {t is summer in Nice. The sun shines jown upon the broad, oright curve of the Promenade des An- glais, where the Med- i‘terranean laps it on one side and palms are green and violets sweet upon the other. There is the sound ef music from the casino on the jetty; ther warm smell of roses, and he gay panorama of women under nbow-hued parasols, who loll upon the b Ss and radiate that full joy of life which is in warmth and sunshine. French Officers in brit ant uniforms pass and re- valids lie back in wheel chairs, and girls chatter bad French and at ican frankly who sit s the tall English women y erect in perfectly ap- the petite French women on “bicyclettes” and the ues of Monte Carlo, who prom- ie by twos and threes with faces young and old at the same time. With its im- hotels and its jumble of fashionable ble folk and fast folk, Nice is the atoga of France. is Saratoga, too, in the brilliance of stumery. All France for that matter allowing in paint pots. The purple and put on to welcome the czar last au- tumn demoralized the dressmakers and ot away the soft delicate tints and the | 1 half-tone of color that have ‘arisian elegantes their reputation since the time when the memory of woman runneth not to the contrary. Like Saratoga Nice ts a little extreme, but it ts true of Peris as of the Promenade des Anglais, that never before h blows of broad i eyes. Against the of the palms and the white marble of the palace hotels, street dresses of sky- blue velvet or rose color or yellow have, in- deed, this advantage, that one takes them, like the rest of the magnificent spectacle, with easy credence as a scene out of fairy As a young American woman said to his afternoon, “It’s not real; the stage set for an opera and the chorus is com- ing on.” color The Rule of Color. As she spoke ruby seemed for the mo- ment to dominate the moving pageant with its wine-red sparkle and glow. Parasols of ruby silk, toques and capotes of ruby vel- vet, knots of ruby ribbon in the hair and at the waist, and, just where {t lent most em- phasis to the picture, a long ruby satin loak brocaded with black, made things look as if the red calcium light had been turned on. Five minutes later the picture was green, then !t was violet and by and By all parti: co d with e and Teen silks worn to- her and combined with ermine. A girl ored gown wore a cape of d with cream-colored lace. aught on one shoulder with roses and on the other with ck ostrich plumes. Her hat vet crown and the brim was roses. Long black plumes circle and touched her cheek. ssian countess wore a turquoise blue under a long cloak of dark lined with sabie. A broad covered her shoulders end was knotted with greentsh white rib- bons. Her hat was of greenish white vel- with trimming of turquoise blue ribbon ve ark, piquant face sat on a n in a@ coat wonderfully ded. She peked the grass with a yellow parasol flounced with black lece and all her costume was in black and yellow. Her dress was yellow silk with bl bbons rtnning about the tle below the hips to within a half of the hem. The yellow ist was made with a black velvet a bolero edged and barred with et. Her hat was of yellow straw k ribbons, black lace and yellow € straw hats are almost as common in Nice aa felt or velvet ones. Like a Theatrical Scene. nd through it all the music throbbed | Gnd the tinkle of glasses came from the pen windows of the cafes above the bath- | ing houses along the shere. It did not seem as if in real life the riches of furs would be slashed iato little bits to make up with Jace and feathers and ribbons, or as if e uid be dotted all over with flow- e worn with such reckless pro- ft One accepts it at Nice ton out of doors. with the theatrics and w setting of mountains a rand olive groves and orange trees, but when it comes to everyday Hv- ing, @ French fashions conquer as they st, a good many people are @ good many feelings rough- BUFFALO LITHIA WATER have shuddered at a year or two ago. And not in colors only. French novelists are expressing their grief in French newspa- pers over Parisians who wear fortunes in big diamonds with tailor gowns. That be- gan with the scramble to show all one’s pcssessions on all occasions before the czar. I have not seen any such lamentable lapses, but I have noticed another thing ever which outcry is beginning to arise; perfumes are used to suffocation, and, as if abuse of the more delicate odors was not enough, theaters, concert halls and church- es are redolent of musk, long tabooed, but row brought forward as according well with the violet colors of the autumn years of the century. The above mentioned moralists attribute its use to the “nouveaux arrives,” but by such reckoning there must have been a deal of jumping of the hedge of the charmed circle very recently. At any rate, French women of all classes are taking to per- fumed gloves, which were about the only articles of dress left to add scent to. But enough of jeremiads. France is queen of fashion still, though she may be pulling down the walls of her palace, and so let us return to clothes as they are worn. Some Costumes. Here are a few of the best of the prome- nade dresses I have seen in Nice: A velvet costume of bishop's purple with a broad edge of chinchilla at the hem. For the bodice, a bolero of the velvet edged with a soft lace of cream color verging to gray. Cascades of a similar lace fell over the bodice from the shoulders. The bolero opened upon a vest of grayish mousseline de soie laid in fine plaits and having a dainty lace collar. The sleeves had small puffs of the purple velvet at the shoulders. Eelow the puffs close wrinkled sleeves of gray velvet came to the wrists and ended in lace ruches. There was a folded belt of gray velvet and a broad hat of gray velvet with black plumes. A dress of a scft reddish brown cloth of a dead leaf tint, as nearly as the color can be described. This was worn by a young French girl. The skirt had a wide flounce of galloon embroidery in a lace pat- tern so arranged as to simulate a long overskirt caught up behind. The silk blouse was of a darker, richer tint than the skirt, and was made with a bertha of the embroidery used upon the skirt. Sleeves only a trifle full upon the rhoulders, @ belt of reddish brown ribbon knotted to the left of the watlst, a little boa of mink fur and a mite of a turban-like hat with trimming of brown paradise bird plumes, made a toilet remarkable for its effective simplicity in this city of flamboyant dis- play. A gown of dark green sfik, with skirt laid in fine knife pleats from waist to hem. Over a chemisette of white mousseline de sole opened a bolero of rose pink velvet against the surface of which paler pink roses appeared as If showing from below A spider web of white gauze covered the flower figures and gave a pretty effect of rovelty. A belt of white ribbons, a boa of biack ostrich feathers, a black velvet [hat trimmed with roses and a dark green silk parasol supplied the needed acces- sories. “Decollete” Wraps. A silk dress in very large plaids of green and brown, penciled with ruby lines and plainly made except for a standing collar of ruby velvet. Over it was worn a mantle of green cloth, short in the back, but with long ends tn front, reaching nearly to the ground. This mantle was cut low and round in the neck; hereabouts “decollete” applies to wraps as well as gowns. It was open in front and on the shoulders and was belted at the waist with ruby ribbons. It was embrotdered all about in black silk and fastened with brandeburgs and fanct- ful buttons. A capote in rose velvet crowned a dark face with extremely heavy eyebrows. Skirt of green velvet, with bolero jacket of the same material. The jacket had front and back each in one piece, and open- ed under the arms. Flaring epaulettes of pleated taffeta made wings upon the shoulders and a deep collar of rich em- broldery merged at the nec into a ruche of green taffeta. The green felt hat was covered with black plumes. At Nice women wear short gloves be- cause their sleeves are so long and tight. SLLEN OSBORN. a IN THE CANARIES. The People of the Islands Are Cheer- fal and Friendly to Their Visitors. From Good Words. A tourist in the Canary Islands says: “I know nothing more cheerful to the vagabond than the readiness of friendship among the common people of the Canary Islands. Go where you will abroad you may shake the hand of the beggar, loafer, peasant and cottager. All have the same free and hearty welcome for you. They seem to delight in outlandish acquaintance, and if you happen to be a woman you in- stantly appeal to their better selves. Here, as elsewhere, I have kindly memories of people whose names I never knew and who did not know mine. I remember driving by diligence with a brave and heroic-looking young gentleman, beautifully clad. He wore lorg boots, radiant linen, velvet breeches, a short, smart jacket and a wide- brimmed hat. “Men of breeding might go as far as his native village to acquire his perfect man- ners. Wondering who this picturesque and operatic young man might he, I afterward questioned the diligence driver (a rascal I had reason to suspect of stealing my bag, with all my things, and the wonderful bar- gains in Orotava lace and embroidery 1 had driven), and Jearned that he was a vil- lage butcher. So with all the trades peo- | ple here. I wanted to match some stuff sold me by a woman of Orotava down at Santa Cruz, and was informed I should ap- ply to Don Pablo, or Don Pedro, and then to Don Nicholas of the Puerto. ‘Surnames tials, was presented with proof of his de- scent from @ Gothic king.” ——__+0-—___. Sensitive. From Puck. Pupil—“ ‘Woman’ is a common noun— common noun—third person—singular num- ber—a—singular number—sing—" Teacher—“That will do about singular number. Let us get past that and see what comes next.” The Cheap. From the Detroit Tribune. “And it {s not after all the quality of cheapness that attracts purchasers?” “Of course not. If it were how could all these auction stores live?” HOUSEHOLD HINTS A great many “mysterious” fires might be explained if rats could talk. Rats and mice love the phosphorus on the lighting end cf matches. When you are reminded of the pretty little frivols in which matches are kept in the bed rooms and in the Kitchen, oftentimes, you must know that it is easy enough for the tiny stray mouse to get at them and thus start a disastrous fire by igniting the silken hanging or man- tel scarf. Safe matches are those that will strike fire only when scratched on specially prepared surfaces. If the com- mon matches are used they should be kept Pe tin boxes and religiously covered all the ime. A penny is a handy thing to use in scratching paint from a pane of glass. It will not scratch the glass, and most other metals will. A man of fine abilities doing nothing is @ sad sight. It is an economic fact that educated women who find themselves out of the employment for which they have a particular talent take the first honest thing that offers, if it is child-nursing or cham- bermaid. But men consider such action “lowering,” and refuse to dig on the streets, address envelopes or carry in a lead of wood, much preferring to borrow qvarters here and half dollars there, with Promises to pay ‘‘when I get that position.” ‘Women tramps are few and far between. Never dissolve salaratus or soda in hot water. It liberates the carbonic acid gas, and thus loses much of its “raising” prop- erties. Real honest meat stew Is a delicious dish, and this ts one of the best ways to make it. Cut the meat into small dice with a sharp knife and put to stewing gently in a pint ot hot water or sweet, not very salty, beef stock. Stew till tender, then put in three tablespoonsful of diced cold boiled potatoes. Stir in quarter of a cup of butter, two tablespoontuls of flour till it is smooth, one spoonful of beef extract, teaspoonful of lemon julce and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Stir this evenly into the bubbling stew and season with salt and pepper to taste. It's good and you are bound to think’ 80. Toasted bread is nice to eat with it. It is an excellent “hurry up” dish. A woman who knows says that cleaning furs is easy enough. Put a quart or two of rye flour into an iron pot and set it over the fire, stirring and heating till very hot. Spread out the furs and sprinkle the flour hot and thick over them, rubbing it well in. After kneading for some moments, shake the flour-off and brush and beat the furs well. The natural luster will return and make the furs look almost like ew. Bathing 1s positively the best cosmetic in the world, and any physician will tell you so. Reguler hours for eating, and absti- nence from rich food is the next best, and regular hours for sleeping will come third. The girl who tries the recipe for three months can throw powder and Touge pot on the garbage heap, and look to be her own granddaughter when she reaches three score and ten. a After you have given your zinc a good scrubbing with soap and water rub lastly with a flannel cloth dampened with kero- sene, which will improve it greatly. Cornmeal will not keep as well as flour; so if you do not use much of it buy only in small quantity, and keep in a cool, dark place. When it gets old it has a musty flavor that makes it unfit for use. This “half and halt” weather sets corns to stinging. A simple remedy is made of stale bread softened with good strong vinegar. Bind on the corn over night. After two or three applications the corns can easily be picked out. It takes out the soreness too. A good cement for mending glass and china is made of three parts of resin, one part of caustic soda, five parts water well worked together. Clean the edges of the broken article, smear with the cement and set away to dry thoroughly. Few housekeepers know the good qual- ities of old newspapers. For rubbing the cook stove they are invaluable. ~Take a thick handful and rub the stove when very hot, and all the grease of the cooking meal will come off at once. A paper spread on the floor under the oven door when cooking meat or fowls, ples or pudding will save the floor froin splashes of juice or grease. For polishing the tin teakettle, coffee pot, milk pail and other tin articles, it has no equal. Have the vessels hot, then rub briskly. There seems to be something in the ink on the paper that helps to scour up the metals. STAR, SATURDAY, JANUARY 9, 1897-24 PAGES, THE VANITY OF MEN As Revealed te the Young Woman at a Photographer’ WHEN THEY CALL FOR THETR PICTURES How They Primp. When About to Sit Before the Camera. WOMEN AND WRINKLES +—___ HE RECEPTION room young lady in the photographic studio is “spotting” prints, smudging her . Pretty face with tiny dabs of India ink, humming, and think- ing, all at one and the same time. An essential qualification of the reception room young lady 1s that she must be able to Z do everything at once. ‘tue avur is gently opened. A man weigh- ing eighteen stone, with three chins and a waxed mustache, squeezes in. “Are they done?” he inquires, insinuat- ingly. “So dreadfully sorry,” answers the re- ception room young lady, “but the printing weather—" “Br-e-r-rph! Weather be—br-r-r-r-rph! Fraud!—money under false pretenses!—out- rage!—warn the public!—’ (Exit, mutter- ing, bursting with wrath, and banging the door.) The reception room young lady blithely resumes her humming and unconsciously dabs a black crescent under her left eye, giving her face a certain period-of-Louls- Quartorze appearance. The door is opened determinedly. A little old lady with per- oxide hair, enameled countenance, and a wrinkle-screening spangled veil, marches up to the desk with the firm air of Lady Jane Grey going to the block. “I want my proofs,” says she, ominousl: “So dreadfully sorry, but they're not: “Young woman, how dare you! How can you have the impertinence to stand there and tell me—” “Oh, just a moment, I'll see—* (reception room young lady talks mysteriously in speaking tube leading to floor above, and while the old lady with the peroxide hair still fumes the proofs drop down another tube.) “Here they ure. They are splendid.” Then She ins Indignant. The enameled lady looks at them. It is fully two minutes before she is able to speak. “Splendid! did you say? Are these sup- posed to represent me? Have you the un- holy assurance to calmly tell me that these horrible caricatures are intended to— I believe you frave done this a-purpose! You have got the proofs mixed! This wo- man is eighty years old! But she’s got on the same waist and flowers that I wore! It’s a conspiracy! I Won't endure it! That man that sat me was “But you cdn have another sitting,” sweetly. “Anyway, the negatives will loox different altogether after they've been re- touched, and those shadows and wrinkles" “Wrinkles! Are you deliberatel: yi to insult me? Do you—" Peas “—wrinkles, caused, by a little over-ex- posure of the plates, and a trifle too much Rembrandt lighting, will disappear. Even a little baby’s face, you know, shows wrinkles in the proofs, and—” “Oh, really; I had no idea. Well, pose I'll have to sit again. Would you wear that same wajst, or—’ (Old lady, moliified, enterg at, length into. the corsage question with the reception room young woman, and departs for the studio above, beaming.) The R. R. Y. L. hums some more and dabs 2 turtle, upside down, on her chin. Enter an old gentleman, who looks like Chauncey Depew’'s double. He looks upon the young woman behind the desk with a rakish eye. “Ah, my dear young lady, you—’ “Yes, sir, they're all done—so sorry to have kept you waiting. Somewhat Disappointed. “Are you, now, my dear?” archly. “You must not be sorry. Little girls should not be sorry; they should be happy, gay, joy- ous—” ‘Yessir. Here they are.” “Ah! thanks!’ Looks at them. Humph! Well, let’s see. Humph! I can't say that I think your artist has been particularly successful. He seems to have—why, no, confound it all, he hasn’t hit me off at all! Can it be possible that I haven't got any more hair than that? And, my dear young lady, I'll leave it to you if I've any such Saucers under my eyes as that—” “It's the high light, sir. The high light, you know, gives character to a gentleman's face, even if it does sometimes make quite young gentlemen look quite elderly. The retoucher could have removed all of the lines and the deeper shadows, but it would have been such a shame to have spoiled all the firmness and strong character and thoughtfulness and—” “Well, well, bless me, is that so? Why, my de—umph!—I guess you're right. Don't seem to be so bad, after all, do they? No, by Jove! I actually believe they’re good, eh, Mttle one?—umph! But I fear I'm get- ting on, getting on! When a man ap- proaches forty, you know, my de—ump! well, good-bye, my pretty one, good-bye go—o—d-bye!” (Smiles greasily, his shoulders and departs airily.) * All of this happened inside of ten min- utes at a well-known Washington photo- graph gallery the other afternoon. The Star man who was off in another corner of the room, rehearsing the row he in- tended to kick up if his pictures were not finished, concluded that humility was the best diplomacy. Therefore, the reception room young lady spake unto him these things: A Leaf From Her Experience. “There are over a hundred just like those three in here every day. Patience? Why, I couldn’t stay here five minutes it I sup- adfully I didn’t have ten times as much patience as Job ever had. The best-natured people in the world seem to try as hard as they can to be just as mean as they can when they visit a photograph gallery. They are particularly cross and hateful during the holiday season. They come in a week be- fore Christmas to sit for their portraits, and demand that they shall be finished, ready to be mailed all over t country, two days before Christmas. - “They always make this demand after they have had their sittings. If they'd speak of it before they go upstairs, I'd tell them that it would. be impossible to have them done by Christmas, but they don’t. They wait until they have been posed, and then they come down here and try to make my life miserable. But they can’t—no, indeed, they can’t. I've been here too long for that. “The men are a good deal worse than the women. They either abuse me or want to flirt with me—one or the other. I never saw the like. And, oh, they are such horrid kickers! And vain! Why, the women are nothing to them for vanity. Nine out of every ten men who come in here to get their pictures taken think that they are just the handsomest people that ever lived. They demand twice as many re- sittings as the women. They are all right when they first come in, and they all get off those two frightful jokes that I've heard so many hundreds of thousanls of times about ‘breaking the camera’ and ‘rather have a tooth pulled than have a picture taken,’ and expect me to laugh hysterically every time. Masculine Pride. “The trouble begins when they see their proofs. You can’t much tell how the pic- tures are going to be by the proofs, you know, but it’s the hardest thing in the world to convince a man of that. And a man js hardly ever satisfied with his fin- ished pictures. ‘For heaven’s sake, am I such a soft-looking guy as that? is what rearly all of ‘em say. They all want to look grand, and noble, and heroic, you know. It's a funny thing, but most men scowl when the operator tells them to ‘look pleasant.’ They don’t want to look pleas- ant. They want to look solemn, and ter- rific, and mysterious, and profound, as if they were being weighed down by secret grief, so that life is a long drawn out misery to them at best. Little men, es- pecially, want to look tragic and gloomy. Why, I declare I don’t know. “Of course, it would be ruinous if I should grin, but I always have such a lot of fun all by myself when a young man comes in to have his picture taken in his first dress suit. He brings his suit and aress shirt and paraphernalia along with him, and is just as solemn about it as he can be. No matter how pimply faced or ungainly he may be, he considers that the evening suit squares everything, and he gets terribly angry if his pictures don't look like those of Maurice Barrymcre, or William Faversham, or Charles Coghlan, or those other dress-sult actors who make it their business to look lovely. Then the Men Primp. “And primp! Before I came here I used to think that all the primping In the world was done by women, but oh, dear me, I don't think so any more! Why, men are the conceitedest things! You just ought to see them ‘making up’ to get their pictures taken. I declare, I think it sometimes takes ‘em hours—standing before the glass grinning at themselves, poking at their necktles, brushing their eyebrows, twisting their mustaches and practicing—yes, just Practicing—expression! Yes, and some of them bring little powder puffs here with ‘em, to take the shine off their noses! I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn’t seen it with my own eyes. “It makes a young man with a small mustache awfully angry when his mus- tache doesn’t come out in the picture big and ferocious and military. Then, a lot of men wear big diamonds in their neck- ties and shirt fronts when they are pho- tographed, and when the diamond looks like a big white spot in the picture they get mad and say ‘the operator is »ot en to his job!’ Yes, and any number of men &0 somewhere and get ihei> hair curled with curling {rons before they get ‘took.’ Vain! why, women don’t know the meaning of the word in comparison. “Of course, some of the women who come here are pretty fu: Those whose ages are uncertain (or, rather, all too cer- tain) are the worst. ‘They all want to look so very young. Before we show some of these their proofs we occastonally have the negatives retouched so that every wrinkle and hollow is removed and the pictures don’t look any more like the originals than anything, but this scheme always works, and such sitters are always delighted. Rut when I show 'em the ‘unrevised proofs’ I don’t have any particular joy of my ex- istence. “The young matron with the new baby is the hardest person of all to please. I don’t blame her for thinking her baby is the cutest Cupid that ever was, but 1 do blame her for blaming me when a pin happens to be sticking in the baby when its picture is taken, and its hair is all tousied up, and the negative is all mouth and ears and fists and legs. As if I nad put the pin there. “The easiest people to get along with are the theatrical folks, both men and women. They have been getting them- selves photographed everywhere for years, know just what they want and how long it will take to get it, and they are nearly al- ways satisfied. They are so used to atti- tudinizing that they fall into the poses easily, and, as trey give no trouble to the operator, he ‘spreads’ himself upon them.” eran THIS WAS IN ATLANTA. The Native Was Not Full of Informa- tion and Didn’t Know Too Much. From the Calhoun Times. The newly arrived stranger in Atlanta started up Whitehall street in search of information. On the corner of Alabama street he encountered a tall, yellow-faced individual in a droopy coat and solled tie. “My good sir,” said the stranger, “I am in search of information concerning this great state of Georgia and feel sure that you can assist me very materially. What is your population?” “Dunno.” “What kind of school system have you here?” “Dunno.” “How about your tax rate?” “Dunno.” “Is your government friendly or un- friendly to manufacturing corporations?” “Dunno.” “Let's see—how does Georgia rank among the other states of the south in its agricul- tural products?” ‘Dunno.”” ‘Ah, vou don’t live here, then?” <” "Yaas “What do you do?” “Oh, I'm jest a member of the legislatur.” Ghe was ambitious, but INFANT CLOTHES Hints on Dress for a Most Important Personage. MAKING THE LITTLE GARMENTS What a Complete Ready-Made Outfit Costs. ——__+ CLOAKS AND CAPS Written for The Evening Star, OW TO DRESS THE Pere important member of the fam- ily is a problem which fond mothers are generally left to solve for themselves, with the assistance of such information as they can glean from grandmcthers and interested friends. One fre- quently reads the most elaborate direc- tions for making dolis’ clothes, but the king or queen of the nursery has been sadly neg- lected. And this, notwithstanding the fact that no outfit Is so universally the product of home manufacture as is that of the very young person. Even the wealthiest of mothers likes to have a hand in the making of dainty little garments for her little ones. But the average mother cannot spend time to do elaborate embroidery, much as she might wish to. Indeed, much of the labor which was formerly spent on infants’ undergarments has been done away with by improved machinery and by advanced ideas on the subject of comfortable attire for his babyship. Modern authorities recommend a complete outfit of knit under- wear without any of those confining gar- ments of cotton or linen which they say impedes the baby’s growth. The knit goods used for infants’ garments fs a cross be- tween stockinet and the merino underwear worn by grown people, and being made on the bias ft stretches and gives with every motion of the body. This material constitutes the underwear of an infant, including the petticoat, which is not pinned on with a tight cotton band around the body, but has arin holes in the merino, and is thus suspended from the shoulders. It may be trimmed with torchon lace and be as fancy as desired. Ex- tremists recommend a knit dress, made double, to be worn by the baby until it is tcur weeks old, but this is too much to ex- pect of admiring relatives. When an embroidered flannel skirt is used, instead of spending weeks embroider- ing the flannel by hand, the modern nother buys machine-embroidered flannel by the yard at prices ranging from 50 cents to $1.75 a yard. The 50-cent quality, however, is not very desirable, and if one cannot afford to pay more than that it would be better to buy plain. A yard and a quarter is said to be good measure for the long petticoat. Tucked and embroidered petticoats of cot- ton goods are undesirable, because they add weight without warmth. Suitable Material. For the little dresses no material is so nice as French nainsook. Swiss is some- times used, and jt is very pretty, but not nearly so durable. Ordinary nainsook, at from 18 to 50 cents a yard, serves very nicely for night slips, but for day dresses it is not so good, because it lacks the dress- ing of the French material. The latter va- riety sells for from 30 cents to a dollar and a quarter. Two and a half yards is an ample amount for a dress, no matter what the style. Indeed, there is very little chance for a difference in thewstyle of an infant's dress, except in the yoke and the trimming around the bottom of the skirt. Yokes are made round and square, with one point, two points, or three, but the prettiest and most babyish style is the round yoke, not more than three inches long. They are prettiest when composed of five tucks alternating with lace or embroid- ery insertion, but it saves labor to use the solid embroidery that sells by the yard. It can be edged with a band of insertion, with a frill of lace at the bottom and another at the top around the neck. The dress so mede has a yoke with two points in front. ‘The dress proper is made of nainscok, with rows of lace insertion alternating with feather-stitched bands of material, and finished with a flounce of wide lace. Baptismal robes made entirely of lace are imported from the French convents, and are very beautiful. The body of the skirt is formed of Brussels net, but the entire front is one solid panel of lace inser- tion, and the bottom of the skirt is finished with rows of insertion and flounces of lace caught up at intervals with tiny bows of satin ribbon. Such a robe is beyond the reach of any but the wealthy, but if the baby is not christened until after he is put into short clothes a dress of lace if made at home is not gn impossibility. There is nearly always a doting aunt in the family who would like nothing better than the task of sewing strips of Valenciennes in- sertion together for baby’s christening robe. The little yoke aud sleeves at least may be made of solid lace, and are much daintier than nainsook, however fine it may be tucked. Night slips should be as plain as possible. A few up-and-down tucks on each side the front without any yoke are sufficient. The neck and sleeves are edged with narrow embroidery. Wrappers and Jackets. Most babies have a couple of little morn- ing wrappers. This is a good idea, for it saves the elaborately embroidered dresses, and is more comfortable for the baby. Pretty little gowns are made of white cheese cloth, interlined with a layer of wad- ding, and tufted with pink or blue zephyr. Bland turn-down collar and a cord to tie ‘wrapper a very useful -an¢ Ettle garment, which — be on over the night dress after greatly ® FI lessening early morning labor. and in some cases ind: hastening the preparation of the morning meal Short jackets are made of cashmere and crepon. Four or five clashes are usually cut around the bottom to relleve the plain effect, and the whole is edged with a bul tonhole stitch. If one kn broider, it is pretty to + flowers or a vine pat If not, it would be be et of crinkled white ¢ ed silk and trim it with baby flounces of lace. Long cloaks are ma faille silk, bengatine, cr and cashmere. 1 are the favorite mater: made of Bedford cord are usually trim with embroidery, rows of narrow ribbon, heavy lace. k of Bed- » full cape e of Deklerd with feather stitching between. The same trimming appears on the ekirt about four inches from the bottom, and the turn-down collar has two rows. As to Linings. A cloak that looks like a double cape it very fashionable. The upper cape reac! half way down, entirely covering sleeves, and if desired the cloak worn as a cape without crowding baby’s arms into the sleeves. One little crepon cloak that looked very much up to Gate had a short bolero jacket, such as grown folks are wearing. If one cannot afford to buy quilted gilk cr satin plain silk may be wadded and tufted for lining. Bengaline and faille cloaks are very handsome, but are not 1 ally used by even the wealthy until child is put into short clothes. The fur trimmings used on short cloaks are white Thibet and ermine. The newest short dresses of nainsook have some sort of trimming around the bottom. The plain, deep hem been the correct thing for a long time, it ts so pretty and so easily made and laundered that it will doubtless be worn for some time. Children of two or three years wear their dresses to reach below the kx but the long Kate Greenaway frocks that w such a hindrance: to baby’s first steps have gone out entirely. The simplest caps and bonnets for in- fants are made of China silk, lined with the same and wadded, with a narrow frill of footing around face and neck, Swiss edged with Valenclennes lace is sometimes made into little fans to trim the tops of caps. The tles are China silk. Very elaborate 3 are made of faille silk, wadded and edged with ermine, but they are not so soft and dainty as those made of China silk. There are so many beautiful styles of bonnets that it is a pity to allow the tiny woman of fashion to wear a hat before she is six years old, and in general this rule is adhered to, though the yourg lady hor- self often insists upon having a hat like grown folks. Baby's jewelry usually consists of a s of gold buttors or pins chained tog and two bib pins, though a little neckla with a pendant fs also wor A complete cutfit of clothes chased, ready-made, for about when made of very fine materials one must pay from $40 to $15. Sine the the r, 7e As the Sun Went Down. Two soldiers lay on the battleteld At night when the sun went down, One held a lock of thin gray hair And ove held a lock of brown. One thought of his sweetheart back at home, Happy and young und gay And one of his mother Feeble and old and Each in the thought that a woman cared, Murmured a p a Lifting his gaze to t ‘here on the battle sod. Each in the joy of a woman's love ied through the pain of deat Murmnured the sound of a woman's name, ‘Though with bis parting breath, Pale grew the dying lips of each, ‘Then, ax the sum went do A Parzsling Situation. From the Detroit Free Press. “As it seems the fad,” said the old prac- titioner, “I'll just relate one of my earlier experiences in the profession. “I first swung my’ shingle in northern Indiana. At that time it was largely made up of tamarack swemps and the doctor that was supplied with whisky and quinine didn’t need much else. You can appreciate that it did not require a great jurist to serve as justice of the peace. I had been elected prosecuting attorney and was chock full of ambition. “I had not been in office thirty days when two men im southern Michigan had an ugly quarrel over a line fence. One of them introduced a gun into the argument and the other came sprinting into Hooster- dom like an express train. He stopped on receiving a load of buckshot in the shoulder, and his enemy was just curious enough to follow and ascertain the dam- age. “The shooter was promptly arrested and taken before the justice of the township to be given a preliminary hearing. There ft was proven beyond any chance to squirm that the gun had been fired in Michigan and the shot had taken effect in Indiana. If there had been an attempt to commit great bodily injury, the attempt was con- ceived and made in Michigan, If this bodily injury had resulted, it was in In- diana. “You can readily conceive, gentlemen, how that justice was twisted and tangled on the ‘question of jurisdiction. He was a combative representative of the blind goddees, and as I had done as much any one else to keep him guessing, he sim- ply ordered the prisoner released. The shooter and the shootee became reconciled and thet ended the affair.” IMPERIAL HAIR . RECEHERATOR OS itter what the color or condition of nate mstreaky, MACHED or GRAY it can be made beautitul, glomy and satura! by one applt- ca Imperial Hair Regenerator. It is colorless, lasting, does not contain an matter. Baths do not affect it, curling mor rable ou account of its cleauliness and atom of poisonous isi de “ APEPLICATIONS MADE AT MARLBOR 110 @ 5 8. XW.

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