Evening Star Newspaper, December 12, 1896, Page 22

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 12, 1896-94 PAGES. “PRETTY GIRLS WHERE THERE ARE SOLDIERS.” TO THE RIVIERA Notes of Fashions as Jotted Down on the Way. IN AN ENGLISH HOME AT GIBRALTAR How Paris Dressmakers Conform to the English Tastes. 2 TEA AND BISCUIT —= es Cor uce of The Evening Star. GIBRALTAR, December 1, 1896. OU WERE NEVER in Monaco? You have never gambled? Here! Take this and play it for me! This ‘s my address.” And the little old nan with the bald ead and the bright, 2littering eves thrust a golden twenty- frane piece into the hand of the Chicago lady. The eager little n. whom defeats have not tanght lief in the provertial good luck of be- Was leaving the Loat ‘for a week before going on to woo the god- © again. The Chicago lady was traveling without pause to the Riviera. I wonder whether she will play the Louis or return it. In one way or another, by routes direct or roundabout,it is to the Riviera we all are bound; and through the pent-up strait over which the Lion Rock of Gibraltar crouchcz in watch we pour like the sand through the narrow neck of an hourglass. I do not suppose there is such another meetirg place of all the peoples of the earth west of the Suez canal as is this quaint garrison town. As for fashion— Panniers—of charcoal—are much worn— by the patient donkeys that plow past the gates toward sunset. It ts the fashton to clip the body cf a horse quite bare of hair, leaving the legs clothed, so that the animal seems standing in golf stockings. Moorish burrouses are woven coarse hop-sacking effects, lined with white. Bare-kneed Highlanders, hare-shanked Moors, bare-footed boys, and bare-head@d runners mingle in confusion; and against a background of these picturesque ele- ments two figures stand outlined. Clear-Eyed English Girl. There {s the oriental woman, with her shambling gait and her veil drawn over her face, as in the biblical days. There is the clear-eyed English girl, whose face is toward the future, as her sister's is toward the past. There is powder on the face generally; the climate is uncertain and the drinking water is bad. But it is a face good to look upon and the clothing is worth more than @ glance Bicycle riding riding much. in the women ma in dark, and always there is none; horseback The Calpe hunt, over the line Spanish hills, has given these fair re, firm seats in the saddle. Many of them use reversible saddles to correct any permanent curvature of the spine, so muc are they afield. The long skirt is no er de riguer. The skirt 1s short and clearing the boot tops, the the collar a standing choker turndown points. — Colors: in favor; mixed browns and without Black dark grays, a not uncommon concession to the warmer sun. the most id that before leaving New York, he riding season had just begun, I with pleasure the growing use of the Kirted riding habit. I do not think shall r see the long-skirted riding unin. 4 <1 old New York! The name reminds the merry crew wherewith I sailed ago. I do not think I saw on ship- novelty in cortume save onc—a ug sewn into the shape of a bag and r with buttons. It was fash- of dark brown and green plaid when a brown-eyed lady with a be oo ter hat aloft crawled into and buttoned ft with big tassel buttons with fringe of the rug, she looked more ape than the other damsels with -blown skirts or dragging blankets. here were girls in fascinators Capuchin hoods and girls in ‘8, but then, thcre There Are Soldiers. there are always pretty girls where are soldiers. In Gibraltar there are RIAL HULA UAT Hot IAN} 19) cu FRAT MA SR b OR ‘rae arn, No MAT or condition of you CHED or GRAY-It al, glossy and natural by one © a made appli “1 ea imperial Hair Regenerator. colorless, lasting, does not contain an isonous matter. Bathe do not affect ft, r dees curting wor erlimpiug. Incomparable ne BEAIRD ou account of its cleanliness and durability. No. 1—Black. Xo. 2 No. 3 4—Chestaut.~ Dark “Brown. > No. 5—Light Chestaout. Medium Brown. No. 6— Blonde. No. 7—Ash Blonde. Price, $1.50 and $3.00, Sole Manufacturers and Patentees: Imperial Chemical Mfg. Co., 292 Fifth ave., N. ¥. In Washington, sold PALA ROYAL. APPPLICATIONS. MADE. AT MARLBOROUGE PARLORS, 1110 G ST. N. Get2&26,2¢ 5,000 of the latter, and the former are sar- rison pets to an extent impossible clse- where. Think what any American town would be were one-quarter of its peoole soldiers! Society on the Rock is exclusively Eng- lish, but the traveling American who is favored with mtroductions to the familics of one or two of the British officers finds it very pleasant. Afternoon tea in one of the white villas on the Europe road is an experience to be remembered. Tea is served in a high-ceiled. white-walled room, hung with warm-colored Moorish draper- ies and looking down through swinging lat- tices into the patio, or court, about which Gibraltar houses are built, Ike those of Spain. Gibraltar, it is to be remembered, is not Spain. The court is small, but green with geraniums, though it is December. The hostess is an English lady and her costume breathes of London, though it never saw the British capital. It !s a Paris frock, but Paris adapts herself to the tastes of her customers and English wo- men are nowhere so English as when they overlook the watch towers of Spain. It is a heavy silk which shades green and black and has the merest edge of sable fur as a finish at the hem. The bodice is of pale yellow crepe de chine laid in fine plaits and worn under a smart little bolero of very dark green velvet with a narrow , border of black and gold embroidery. There is a pointed belt of velvet draped in folds and a velvet stock collar with a ruche of crepe rising above it and spreading it aflare. The sleeves of shot silk are cut with droop- ing puffs at the shoulders and thence in close plaits to the wrists. It makes a rich and yet a sober costume, and the lady who wears it talks of the sins of servants, as women evérywhere talk, and of the dearness of provisions, which have to be brought on donkey back out of, Spain. Among her guests is a young woman just from England, and going on to India to marry a Calcutta colonel. She opens a budget of gossip from London and wears one of her trousseau dresses, a splendid black satin brocade, figured with Danish red and olive, and worn with a Russian blouse of olive silk, brightened by a draped belt of red velvet and yoke outlined with the same material. Her big picture hat of olive felt is swept by heavy black plumes. Gala Dress of Shot Silk. A young girl. with the exquisitely bright English complexion belongs to @ trim yacht anchored in the harbor after a Med- iterranean cruise. She is in gala dress of shot silk, glancing blue and black, andj barred with lines of gray thrown together in clustered stripes, The bodice is very pretty and very simple. It is of dark blue silk, fitting like a habit basque. A full vest of gray crepe in front is outlined by revers of gray velvet. Epaulets of gray velvet, short but full, and arranged in cape fash. ion, give a pretty finish to the tight sleeves. Upon the curly blonde hair is a gray vel- vet turban, with black feathers. A captain's wife, petite, plump and pleas- ing, w a flowered silk, that is, perhaps, better worth mention than any other gown in the room. It ig a new weave that a French manufacturer is beginning to ex- Plott, and that has not, so far as I am aware, yet crossed the stormy Atlantic. It is soft, lustrous and ribbed in waves, giv- ing an effect more broken and rippling than the moires. In a warm brown tint, it suits the wife of the captain. It is striped with gray, and against the stripes small pink flowers are thrown with dark green foliage. The skirt {s cut narrow, according to recent Ideas, scarcely four yards round. The bodice is novel and almost unicue, with its blouse of gray silk, flowered with pink and green, its bolero of solid brown bordered with chinchilla, and its belt of dark green velvet. Down in the green garden, under the lat- ticed windows, a fountain is playing, and beside the fountain a Barbary ape is tied. The ape is one of the tribe that frém time immemorial have dwelt upon the Rock and are petted by the soldiers. After the tea and the biscuit have disappeared the gues! go down among the geraniums. The ape chatters, and the sun sifts down through the pepper trees, and presently it is time for a drive to the Alameda. ELLEN OSBORN. nes A Boys’ Republic. From Harper's Basar. Students of social questions must be in- terested In the experiment conducted dur- ing the summer in Tompkins county, New York, by Mr. William R. George, who has | tor years devoted himself to the improve- ment of the slum children of New York. This particular experiment took the form | a, of a republic, the citizens of which were recruited from among the boys and giris of the East Side. Assisted by various young men and women, who gave their services to the work of reform, he organ- ized a government among them, in which each felt his or her citizenship.’ The farm of forty-eight acres on which they lived was tilled by the boys. Every enrolled tn an industrial class. Every citi- zen Was @ wage-earner, and their pay, which was given in pieces of pasteboard representing different denominations of American money, was to be redeemed at the close of the term in articles of real value. The boys had a legislature, a police force, and other adjuncts of government. There was a bank in which earnings could be deposited. Taxes were were in the forenoon, but the afternoon was given to recreation. At the last report the experiment had success, and the children were being trained to be admirable citizens. ae Mistletoe Frame, From Harper's Bazar. child was | gy, paid for the sup- | m port of government. The hours for work | ™ proved a marvelous | guided HOUSEHOLD HINTS A homely but efficacious way of breaking up @ cold is to bathe the feet in very hot water, drink a cup of hot ginger tea and go immediately to bed under a pile of bed clothing. By morning most of the cold will have been sweated out. Crackers are greatly improved by warm- ing in the oven before using on the table. If you want the whites of eggs to beat to a good, stiff froth you must chill them first and beat them in a cool place on a cold plate, to get the best results. The juice of one lemen in rice that you are cooking will whiten it and ‘ake it cook thuch nicer. The acid seems ‘o keep the grains separate. Never stir rice with a spoon; just shake the pan in which it is cooking if necessary to stir itt Always warm all the dishes and knives and forks that are to be used on the table in cold weather. There is nothing much more disgusting than to have nice broiled steak or a steaming omelette placed before you on a plate so cold that the butter on each turns to tallow before you take a mouthful. Tea and coffee should aiways be served in hot cups to get the best re- sults, and where cream is used that is im- proved by heating also. The most approved 4 method of heating the dishes is to place them in the dishpan and pour boiling water over them just before serying the meal. It is only a moment’s work to dry them, and one runs no risk of ruining one’s best china, as is the case when put in a warming oven. You will find that the “stuffing” for a roast goose or duck is much improved if you add a finely chopped tart apple to the other ingredients. For a bone in the throat which vill not dislodge on eating dry bread use a good, strong emetic, while waiting for the arrival of the doctor. : The woman who wishes to retain her girlish complexion will wash her face in nothing but rain or distilled water; always warmed. It is very easy to catch a gallon or two for this purpose each time it rains, and the difference in the texture of <he skin will be very easily noticed in just a few days’ trial. Snow water is equally 23 good. Little or no soap, and if any, of the very finest, should be used on the face. Women grow old fast enough at best, and it is Jit- Ue short of a crime to hasten the coming of crow’s feet by carelessness in grooming one’s good points or smoothing down one's bad ones. A little sugar added to turnips, beets, peas, corn, squash and pumpkin will im- Prove them wonderfully in flavor, and a tiny bit of red pepper in the water in which they are cooked will save the disagreeable odor that arises from the cooking of any of them. In using eggs not known to he perfectly fresh it is safest to break each one sep- arately into a tea cup or saucer; then if an addled one puts in an appearance you will mot spoil the cake or whatever you are getting ready to cook. —>—__. EUGENE FIELD AND THE FARMER. His Excuse for Having Killed the Latter’s Duck. From the Chicago Times-Herald. A few years ago the late Eugene Field and Stanley Waterloo went duck hunting qn Murdock lake, near St. Louis. Ducks were rather scarce and very shy, and the two hunters spent the day without over- burdening their game bags. At length they decided to separate, in the hope that each might drive the ducks within range of the other. Waterloo paddled up the lake and Field down. Late in the afternoon Waterloo banged away at a flock of mallards and brought one down. The wounded duck, however, was not seriously disabled, and before it could be bagged rose and went wabbling down the lake toward Field and dropped within easy range of the poet's gun among number of tame ducks which belonged to a neighboring farm house. Field rested his gun across the bow of his boat and let both barrels go. The mal- lard went flying away. The tame ducks set up a quacking and paddled ashore—all but one. One of the farmer's pets had re- ceived its quietus. The farmer himself didn’t like it, fter indulging in certain emphatic remarks well calculated to impress the erring Nim- rod with the enormity of his offense, be- gan throwing stones and inviting him to come ashore and fight. Field paddled out of stone's throw and began to parley. The farmer wanted a dollar for the duck. “How do you figure that?” queried the poet. “Do you mean to deny that you killed my ck here?’ demanded the granger. “That's true enough,” said Field, “but where does the responsibility really he- long?” “I don't understand you.” —- “Why, that duck of yours was particeps criminis; that’s what it was.” “I don't care what you call it, but I want lollar for the duck, just the same.” “Well, now, see here,” insisted Field, “you ust acknowledge that your water ‘fowl ‘as at least guilty of contributory negll- gence. Instead of keeping away from me while I was gunning for ducks, that mis- fowl deliberately invited death by ting right in front of my gun just as I was about to terminate the earthly exist- ence of a mallard.” The farmer was dazed into silence. “It looks to me like a clear case of sui- cide. I'll wager you hadn't fed that poor, As the Christmas season draws near, the heart-sick, discouraged duck for a month. air 1s full of the usual feminine wailings | No wonder it found existence intolerable over the impossibility of finding suitable presents for the masculine members of the household. under such circumstances, and embraced the first opportunity to escape from a thral- dom worse than death. I suppose I ought to charge you with cruelty to animala and A suggestion is offered in the form of a| have you arrested, but I have no dispost- mistletoe picture frame. Straw-colored satin or moire silk will make an effective background for this design. Work the borderlines and outlines of the ribbon in gold thread couched on, and treat the let- tering in the same way. Work the stems of the mistletoe in @ grayish brown, using a satin stitch. Make the leaves « delicate tion to deal harshly with you. If you'll y me for the ammunition and the time Phave wasted with you, I'm willing to call the matter square and you may keep the duck.” But the farmer shook his head and fied. Mieely Settled. gray green, working them solidly or in | From Household Words. — _ Mrs. Mossy (hobnobbing)—“My respec’s, how's your family settled, Mrs. long-and-short stitch. The mistletoe ber- ries and the beading around the the opening are white, 5: Put Ca Cp under glass in molding about oné-half inch Ing careful to leave three-eighths of an inch of silk between the molding gold thread in the border. linches wide ‘and COSTUMES AT FAIRS What Women Wear When Present as Workers or Visitors, Empire Collard om Street Dresses—A_ Suggestion for a Boa: Carried Out in Gheap Material. 1 of The Christmas; bazaar and the. church fair are inevitabt adjuncts of the dying year. svi = With an eye fyiithe fitness of things, as well as to the marcenary side of the. ques- tion, the prettiest girls are always chosen for the flower and candy booths. These booths are tastefully decorated, but not elaborate enough to detract from the charm of the maidens who dispense their wares beneath. In these beoths the girls are expected to Gress in light, dainty costumes. and even in scme cases wear evening dress, though this is not considered gocd form at a church fair. Pale blues and pinks and greens are the daintiest colors, with here ard there a yellow or faint gray by way of ccentrast. In the flower booth at a bazaar that was held last week in Baltimore all the girls wore white, which was very pretty in con- trast with the green bower that formed the background and was the only decoration used. Last summer's organdies are pressed into service, and give a very festive appearance to the boot which makes the visitor for- get the cold world outside. One girl in pale green, however, brought one back to the season again by trimming her bodice with holly. With few excep- tlens, the booth girls are dressed without reference to prevailing fashions, dainty, fluffy gowns of any season being sufficient- ly attractive. It is the idlers and visitors whose cos- tumes are interesting from our point of view, as their gowns are usually new, and, therefore, in the latest fashion. A Frenchy Coxtame. At the Baltimore bazaar mentioned above one of the wealthy patronesses was dressed in an extremely Frenchy costume. it is not of much value to us to know that the ma- terial of the waist was a heayy antique silk that sells at $5 a yard, and that it was Nned throughout with taffeta that was changeable in three tints, green, gold and magenta. It was made like an ordinary short basque, and then tabs about seven lined with white satin were sewed on the bottom, and this is in- it shows that the long V period still persists v teresting, because basque of the Loui. in public favor. The pr silk was a color that was a cerdse and a magenta, and this shade of satin was used to form the folded belt across the front of the waist and the col- lar, which was veiled with chiffon. ailing tone of the half way between A full vest of embroidered chiffen w bordered on each side with a series of re- vers, the first of which reached about to the sleeve; the second extended over and down; the third was sewed in with the top of the sleeve, pointing down and reach ing almost to the edged with two-inc white mull, and elbow, and all wei h-wide accordion-pleat were lined with white satin. The sleeve.was tight from wrist to shoulder, and had a cuff that was cut eir- cular and turned back. This waist was worn with a rose-colored broadcloth skirt that had a band of wine- colored velvet around the bottom, relieved with a strip of sable fur laid over it. The very next day J saw the same lady with the same skire, but with the broadcloth waist that matched it. It was much more elegant than the silk one, being trimmed with wine-colored velvet and heavy thread lace. The basque proper was cut quite long—about eight: inches below the waist— and was edged with cream lace around the bottom of the fronts and up tne sides to the bottom of the vest in front. ‘The lace bolero was edged with fur. The sleeves were tight! and made of velvet. ‘They had lace-trimmed cloth cuffs, and but- terfly wings of’ velvet, which were set on each side of the sleeve and did not come together except ‘at ‘the point of the should- er, where they’ were ‘finished with’ three loops of moire tibion' to match the Yelvet. This sleeve is extremely Frenchy, and is worth copying in any material. The com- bination of wine color and old rose is ex- tremely beautiful, and looks very rich wita the softening tones of the brown sable and cream lace. The band around the bottom of the skirt is also a point to be noted, for it is one of many, and goes te show that while the plain skirt is perfectly allowable, it looks more finished to the practiced eye when it is relieved with a little trimming. Empire Collars, Many of: the street dresses which one sees nowadays have a trimming about the neck that suggests the empire collar—that is, the collar which stands up and then flares out, away from the face. The effect is sometimes obtained by making a stock collar with four ribbon ears standing up on each side, and then quilling in a little lace to droop over them. In some cases there is no stock, but the empire collar flares out in two points on each side of the face, and is finished in front with a knot of ribbon. The fashionable knot is made of the ma- terial of the dress, faced with silk, and consists of a hard knot with two ear-like ends. Empire collars are the kind which be- long with the empire coats, and these, by the way, are sure to be fashionable next season, because the manufacturers are making up all the fur coats in this style, and the leading modistes do not hesitate to make up the most elegant velvet with em- pire jackets. I hava in mind ‘a brown vel- vet suit, which is trimmed around the bot- tom with a band of black feather trim- ming. The jacket is tight-fitting in the back, but has the empire front hanging loose from the yoke. There sre draped revers which are trimmed with creain lace, and the cuffs have an applique of the same trimming. Boa for the Neck. A boa for the neck is made of black feather trimming with a quilling of lace inside next the face. Such an elegant costume is not likely to be ruled out by the dictates of fashion be- fore it has seen its second year. ~ The boa offers a suggestion which may be carried out in cheap material. Take two pieces of ribbon three yards long and two or three inches wide. Shir two edges together, very full, leaving a Lene § about half an inch wide, and leave at least a half yard of ribbon at each end to tie the boa together. Spread the ribbon out with | the shirred heading in the middle. Then gather in a yard of lace for a ruching, and you have as pretty a boa as perhaps you can afford. Be careful in choosing the color to have it harmonize or contrast well with your various costumes. A quilling of lace inside the standing col- lar of an empire coat gives a soft, dainty touch that is becoming to most faces. It need not be sewed in the coat, but van be pleated on a ribborr band that goes inside the dress collaf. The effect produced is worth the trouble. os She Beat Her Husband. From the Philadelphia Record. Among the curfoup results of the recent battle of the baljots, one of the most inter- esting from mapy ‘points of view is the election of Matgie Hughes Cannon to the state senate of Utah by an immense plu- rality over heryopponent, Angus M. Can- non, who, alas%¥or|the future peace and household, is the hus- elect. The advent ta the Utah state senate may, however, exercise a perturbing in- fluence over a wider circle than that which circumecribes the domestic realm of Mr. Cannon, .; : t of the election of women to the higher legislate assembles has nlled He Ft i 45 HE i : Written for The Evening Star. The great and general court of Massachu- setts, more than two hundred years ago, forbade the sale or use of cakes and buns except for marriages or funerals. Christmas was not worthy of being made an exception, according to the stern creed of these early law-makers, for, indeed, Christmas found no favor in their eyes. Nor was it at all likely that they would look with any favor upon the making of in early years in New England, though common enough in New York and the south. ore But human nature is patient, however se- verely repressed, and the children’s chil- dren of the early settlers had plenty of fun at play. In some respects they even had decidedly the advantage of the fortu- nate youth of 1896; for their toys were al- most all home-made, and represented love and toil and ingenious contrivance in the home circle. A The “boughten” sleds that are now made by the million, it would seem, and sold in their gleaming red paint at “37 cents and upward,” are not, to any right-minded younket, half so interesting as the home- made affair which grandpapa’s grandpa made in exact imitation of a big ox-sled, even to the cleft “tongue” of hard wood. Grandpa’s sled had bent runners of oak} or elm, shod with strips of hoop iron. In still earlier times there were no shoes at all, but the bare wood was polished until it Was as smooth as glass by friction on the | snow. The sled was fastened together with pegs. The peams, cut away beneath to the shape of flat arches, rested directly upon the runners, and the “raves” and floor directly upon the beams, so that the com- pleted sled, no matter how small, would have borne the weight of an elephant’s tread. To break it was simply impossible; and, unpainted though it was, it outlast two or three generations. Grandpapa’s skates were equally primi- tive. Along in October, his father or grand- father brought home a pair of skate-irons hammered out and tempered by the near- est blacksmith. At home, some rainy day was devoted to whittling out wood tops to fit to them, and for fastenings buckskin thongs were used. The simplest skate irons were turned up lightly at the toe; others had elaborate spiral curves, finished off with little brass knobs, like those they used to put on cows’ horns, only smaller. Of course, grandpa’s skates were better than ours. There was a time, twenty or thirty years ago, when every boy was toys. These, in fact, were almost unknown | would | crazy for a pair of short, club skates, with “heel plates” and other modern fixings, but you'll notice that crack skaters like Dono- hue and Eden are now using long-runnered skates with wooden tops a great deal like grandpapa’s; and patent club skates are on the bargain counter with the weak-kneed painted sleds. There never was, and there never will be, | French beauty with waxen cheeks, the | elaborate affair that can cry “wah! wah! | wah!” when you pinch it, is all very well when it is new, but how does it look after ; Soaking in a rain barrel? The rag doll is simply indestructible. The features mark- ed on its flat face in ink can be renewed from time to time as they fade, and the anatomy of the thing is tough. Most ¢x- cellent ttle rag dolls were made by small girls themselves, with the bony framework of a clothes pin for skeleton. dians—among other things that there is nothing like leather to last. A buckskin doll was almost as much better than a rag doll as the latter surpasses in real merit the wax doll with real clothes. The buckskin doll frequently had a patch of real horsehair sewn cunningly into its scalp, and with its wild eyes and Kalmuk nose, it was a thing sufficiently grotesque to be passionately loved A much greater proportion of the people lived on or near the seacoast, and lived seamen’s arts, in early days, than now. Dolls and toys from China and India were common enough on the coast, whither they had been brought by seafaring men, but were surprisingly scarce in the interior. The toy known as cup-and-ball was, how- ever, common throughout the country just after the war of 1812. A famous painter had made a portrait of the baby king of Rome, the hapless son of Napoleon I and Maria of Austria, playing with a cup-and- all. The cup was a scepter, the ball the world, symbolizing the universal dominion the baby was destined never to realize. This portrait was sent to Napoleon just be- fore the battle of Borodino, and.he set it on a camp chair outside his tent, that the grizzled veterans of the grand army might see it as they filed past. Two months later Napoleon was in full retreat from burning Moscow. There were plenty of French sympathizers in this country, however, and the pretty incident before Borodino caused something of a run of cup-and-ball game, now almost wholly forgotten, was simply to toss up the ball and catch it in the cup as it came down. Girls in the old days never had skates, which was a pity. They played at battle- door and shuttlecock, with rackets like those used in tennis, only smaller, driving back and forth a bal of cork, in the top of which were glued two small feathers, THEIR CROWN OF GLORY How Some Washington Women Care for The Locks of Mrs, Cleveland and Chat About Those of Cabinct and Diplomatic People. “Women, cats and birds,’ says Nodier, “are the creatures that waste the most time on their toilets’—and the women of the capital are no exception to the rule that places them first in this regard. Some of the members of the official households have given their tresses, curly and straight, into the care of one woman, who is colored, and a resident of this Dis- trict. Through Mrs. Bissell, wife of the then Postmaster General, she was intro- duced into the home of the President, and for several years has had charge of the handsome locks of his wife. Sir Charles Bell tells of a woman whose curls measured 6 feet; Tennyson writes of Lady Godiva, “Anon she shook her head and showered her rippled ringlets to her knee.” Mrs. Cleveland vies with the lat- ter, if she does not equal the example first given. Her hair is superb, being glossy brown in color, fine in quality and fifty-ene inches long. Where it is folded or braided it shows bronzed high lights, such as the Venetian beauties of ancient days culti- vated assiduously. History says it was no uncommon sight in Italy of old to see the women of rank wearing great brimmed hats of straw, from which the crowns had been cut. Through the openings they would draw their luxuriant hair, outspcead it wide and sit in the sunshine on their ter- races or balconies, hoping for the touches of gold nature had stingily withheld from them. Mrs. Cleveland’s hair waves softly on her brow, being what the Irish call “good- natured hair,” and she wears it arranged with great simplicity. Occasionally the diamond side combs given her by the President at Christmas adorn her coiffure, but ordinarily she affects no ornament. Mrs. Olney, wife of the Secretary of State; Mrs. Lamont, wife of the Secretary of War, her little daughters; Mrs. Perrine, mother of Mrs. Cleveland; Mrs. Thurber, wife of the President's private secretary; Mrs. Schofield, wife of Gen. Schofield, U.S.A.;.Mrs. Beecher of New York, Mrs. William Morrison of Hlinois, Lady Paunce- fote and her daughters are among the patrons of this hair manipulator. Every summer she goes to Marion, Mass., where she has a cottage, at the time when the White House caravan moves, and each Wednesday after he- arrival finds her on her way across the bay. If any of her clients have a single gray heir, whether from the essence of time, sorrow, or any other reason, she plainly regards the fact as confidential, and to be ignored to mere acquaintances. “Gray hair,” she says, } diplomatically, “can be prevented many years after it would naturally be present by massage and bi use of the brush.” Few Washington women have red hair.The women of classic times dyed their locks in blood to attain the warm hue whiclf lovers and friends call “auburn.” She is raptur- ous over the exquisite auburn hair of Miss Helen Benedict of New York, whom she proudly serves. Apuleius’ praise of Circe, “whose golden hair around her sunny face in clusters hung,” could well be applied to Miss Herbert, daughter of the Secretary of the Navy. Ainsworth’s “thirty requisites of perfec- tion,” which demand “dark eyes, dark- some tresses and darkly fringed lid: with other beauties, might well be illustrated in those attractions by Madame Dupuy de Lome, wife of the Spanish minister. She has the masses of blue-black hair set against which a yellow rose or a scar- let pomegranate flower find their happiest background. There is much talk of a re- vival of powder, gold dust and perfumed flour, but this generation is probably too neat for such a revival. A single bal poudre each seasor, seems to satisfy every wish for a return of the troublesome, untidy af- fectations of past centuries. . Fashion threatens the disappearance of tiaras, fillets and other jeweled ornaments of the kind this season, tHe coronet of braids surmounting the brow in their stead. This style of cofffure is seen in perfection at the diplomatic receptions and other large functions as worn by Baroness de Hengel- muller, wife of the Austrian minister. Her hair is profuse in quantity, red brown in color, and she dresses it in a regal man- ner that adds much to her distingue ap- pearance. The wonderful head dress of Madame Yang Yu, wife of the Chinese minister, with its slick pomaded elevations and de- pressions, gay-colored artificial flowers, ribbons, gold and silver pins leads in ec- centricity, however, at the gatherings where foreigners are present. The wife of the Japanese minister is Eu- ropean in the arrangement and selection of her costuming. Madame Pom, wife of the Corean minis- ter, always caps her coarse black hair with an ugly round hat of black satin. To such an extent do the Chinese women carry their fancy for head decoration that those of the poorer classes will stick on garlic, onions and other vegetables rather than go without. any other doll so nice as a rag doll. The | Our ancestors learned a lot from the In- | put-on-and-off | The | s0 that the bottom, or rounded end, was alway nted for the blow. “Grace hoops,” too, were highly recommended for } “young misses of the quality,” as tending | to develop ease and grace ring. A stick was held in each hand, and the player was required to catch’ on these | sticks the hoop thrown by the other playe | Grace hoops are still used by grown men and women on shipboard, but they a | thrown st a standard, in a game more r sembling quoits. And, by the way, grandpapa and other boys who played used cast horseshoes in | just as they used a home-m; in playing “barn hall,” “long r “two old cat before base ball was invented. Children took life very seriously in the old days, and “filled the station in life which God had called them” as unquestion ingly ¢s their elders. One little girl who the with him always playing quoiis, de jock ball” went from her Connecticut home to boarding school in Boston took with twelve silk gownk, but soon p med for anothe of a new fabric “tb fitting her rank.” Of course every one knows that silk was cheaper than print cloth, when the latter was a novelty. Mary Ann F. eutl, the sister of Peter Faneuil, who bui Faneuli Hall in Boston, used to send to England her discarded snuff boxes, buckles and glove strings to be swapped in London for new goods. Girls learned to sew. in their earliest years, and were careful trifles, If one of them received an “um brillo.” she had given her merely the stick and frame, and covered it herself. Every ; girl had her own needles and sewing tools To keep these neatly and in order. sif” or housewife was given her. a strip of flannel or buckskin, elaborately worked on one side in beads or stitching It was square at one end and pointed at the’ other. and to the latter were attached This was two ribbens to tic it. On the inside were a pocket for odds and ends and one or two “books” of flannel leaves for needles. An emery ball, in the shape of a red flannel strawberry with green flannel leaves at the base, was tucked in the pocket with th skeins of yarn and other things. When the | hussif was rolled up, one end formed a cup just big enough to hold the thimble the other end was a tiny pincushion. But boys and girls in the old days had nothing lke so many toys as now. Thes had toy wagons and wheelbarrows, tos hoes and rakes and spades, all of which | Were pretty early discarded for the serious use of the real articles. The girls sewed dolls With their own needies. The boys. with their own knives, whittled out wind. mills and watermills, bows and arrows, po- tato pigs, which were marvels of naive carving, boxes and crossbows. Whittling is almost a lost art; and it is a pity, because it was a fine art. THE KING WAS ENRAGED, But When the Chef Told Him What There Was for Dinner He Subsided. From the New York Journal, There was no question but that the canni- bal king was highly enraged, for his face, distorted with passion, resembled one of Aubrey Beardsley’s posters and his nose ring quivered violently. He strode up and down the imperial aue- out, his Trilby heart flopping back and forth as he walked, and cut savagely at the surrounding atmosphere with a small rid- ing crop which had been presented to him by an English gentleman who had since gone into the interior. The king viciously punched an electric bell. The royal purveyor appeared and ad- vanced on his hands and knees. “Caitiff!” roared the savage chieftain, “how is it that you dare to oreak my rule, to oppose my roval will, to disop=y my specific commands? How jis it, I ask, that boiled missionary appears as the culy im- portant dish on my bill of fare today? The purveyor executed a grovel which eclipsed all his former efforts in that direc- tion. The king appeared moliified. “I mean about seasoning,” he explained, nibbling on @ conversation candy. “I fear that he will not be exactly up to my standard—so mild a man!” The purveyor looked reliew “I thovght,” he said, humbly, ragout a la French novelist—— He pau: “Capital!” cried the king, with undis- guised joy, and pinning the latest button to the lapel of his faithful servant's toga, “French novelist!” He smacked his lips in anticipation. “Spicy? Well!” é It was evident that the South Sea Del- monico had scored another triumph. that with His Triumph. From the New York Journal: “It is done! The man who uttered these words wiped his dripping. knife, while his eye gleamed with triumph. His exultation was but natural, for surely no steak had ever before been browned so artistically. - 200. Practiced What He Preach From the New York Herald. Mother—“Did you take that jam, my? Tommy—I'm sure I don't know. Mother—“Themas! Answer me. Tomm: ‘How can I? You told me not to let my left hand know what my right hand doeth!” Tom-